hey man, a bit morbid but here's something from the bottom of my heart. i lost my dad to septicaemia in 2003 i was 8 years old, he was a tradesman and craftsman, and i miss him dearly. he was half way through building our house from the ground up when he died, when news of his death got around the vultures descended and emptied his shop of all it was worth, it had a catastrophic effect on the lives of me and my mum. there was huge amount of knowledge that was lost with him, masonry, plastering, mechanics, philosophy, business, and i never had a decent chance to learn any of that from him like i should have done, so i'd just like to say that these videos mean a lot to me and will help me rebuild the life of me and my family metaphorically and literally, and help me continue my dad's legacy. so, thank you for it all.
construction at college here in the UK is full of the idiots who can't think, it's terribly sad, but because of that it doesn't get enough funding to be of much use to people who actually want to strike out and do it to any meaningful degree besides being some apprentice that carries bricks, it's too low level and isn't designed for anyone with any passion or intuition. i've learnt more from this series so far than i would've learned in a year of paid education at college.
@@gramursowanfaborden5820 Apprentice to a small or up-and-coming general contractor. You could teach yourself but it will take a lot longer. (US advice, not sure how things work in loicense-land).
@@tienglongmy you're right, with the right people... about 9 months ago i joined a program for young people to get them into the construction industry, it was promised to be a full package that gave us the skills, qualifications and experience we needed to get out and about, and technically it was that, but it was utterly miserable, spending half the time on-site and the other half in a portable cabin classroom next to the site office, the tradesmen didn't want us to be there, the foremen didn't want us to be there, and so mostly we were just running errands, and of course carrying bricks (no surprises there!) though i did get to carry some concrete slabs, timber, doors... all the while desperately trying to learn the ropes, learn some skills working with different trades and earn some respect, sadly those actual benefits were lacking. i got my CSCS card (our loicense to work on-site), and that was it, it was a huge disappointment and a waste of three months of my life watching greenfield land be polluted with building sand, nails, plastic clips and broken saw blades being covered in cheap "homes" that won't last 30 years despite leaving a permanent blight for ever more. it has taught me some valuable lessons, but not the ones they intended. i'm still going for it but it's on my own terms now, i've seen some of the worst of the construction industry build some of the worst houses and i will not do it any more, so i'm currently looking at some traditional firms that sympathetically maintain, restore and rebuild historical buildings, Cornish hedgers (similar to dry stone walls), and traditional crafts like smithing, forestry, thatchwork, something that makes me feel as though i'm doing good, conservation, not development.
@pete smyth thank you. i didn't know either of my grandfathers very well either, now i'm the last man in the family. i've got nobody close to learn from, but i'm learning myself, slowly, and thanks to some great UA-cam channels like this one. i'm buying some land soon, gonna build a workshop, continue the family legacy whether the universe wants me to or not.
You are correct, but the PLF never claimed to be pros, EC is a pro with a lot of experience under his belt, oh wait, suspenders, but yeah, it is sure nice to see a real craftsman at work!
PLF has become hard to watch over time, it has just turned into garbage with mass confusion. I enjoy EC based on his ability to explain technical issues, and the fact I feel confident in his ability - that makes it all enjoyable.
It's become 25 minute videos why they are off a 1/8" on their trusses that they are explaining how it happened months ago in the excavation or something irrelevant. People just want to see them build but I think the process is so slow they've been forced to substitute ALOT of useless footage into their videos, to hide the fact there is no building really taking place. I really liked their channel but since the whole water system adventure to this house debacle they've under taken, it just hurts me to watch sometimes. We'll see if that house gets closed in before winter can completely warp, saturate, and twist every bit of lumber they've spent all fall putting up.
Here’s the help you were looking for. You were close with your definition of “development length” but there is one major difference. Development length is the minimum length of rebar that is required to be embedded into concrete in order for the piece of rebar to properly transfer the load from the rebar into the concrete. That’s the basic definition but it also has variables. There are tension development lengths and compression development lengths, each is the minimum length required to develop either tension or compression (for example columns on simple structures are typically in compression, while beams will have bars that are in tension and compression, depending if it’s a top bar or bottom bar in the beam). In your video, what you are calling the development length is actually what’s called the “lap splice length” and the name is self explanatory. The difference between lap splice length and development length is that lap splice length is the minimum length of lap required to properly transfer the stress or load from one bar to the next bar as if it were a continuous bar. Development length is the transfer of load from one rebar to the concrete itself, with no lap or other rebar. Please also keep in mind that these minimum lengths, development or lap splice, will vary greatly depending on the strength of concrete you use, grade of rebar you use, tension or compression use, and also the clear cover used (3” off the ground in your video). Often times, for interior columns let’s say, 1.5” is requested and that little bit less of concrete requires a slightly longer lap splice. Sorry for the long response but there are a few variables that determine these things and the explanations require a lot of explaining, which you so kindly do for us so I’m just returning the favor. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks.
Oh, i forgot to mention the most important variable, the size of the rebar (its late). The bigger the bar, the larger the development and lap splice length required. Always, always, use the drawings to determine these lengths as a #3 lap splice length can be 16” in some applications and a #11 can be 9’ or 108”. And in case you were wondering, epoxy Coated or “green bar” requires even longer lengths because the coating is smoother and doesn’t transfer the stress as well. Like i said, there’s a number of variables so always check the drawings and know the application. Best of luck to you all.
Judey Kun i mean i guess you can call it whatever you’d like but from an engineering perspective, lap splice length is NOT the same as development length.
nybirdman I am truly a novice, but have helped build two houses in the past. Somebody has mentioned welding the rebar together and I am assuming this is OK. Could you share thoughts on this, such as how much should be overlapped and welded together if at all? I have built a couple of retaining walls around my house and welded the rebar together to make it one continuous structure because I did not know how much overlap to use.
Entertaining, intelligent and informative. You are a rare combination, Sir. Thank you for presenting these videos in such a way that is very user friendly.
I have watched this particular sequence of concrete preparation and pouring videos I think a dozen times so far. I think I'm finally catching all the jargon and understanding what you are doing. Thanks a lot for putting these to video. It's been really helpful.
Essential Craftsman, the Lord has also blessed me with three boys and a girl. It is my sincere hope that I can train them up to be hard workers in all aspects of their lives. I enjoy the content you folks produce, best wishes, and may the Lord continue to bless you and yours.
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09:10 - while you are holding the verts in place for your mate to tie, put your thumb over the end of the bar. A thumb knuckle in the eye is not as painful as rebar-end in the eye. Carry a shoulder-bag of mushrooms to fit over the ends as soon as they are in place. You only get one pair of eyes, look after them!
Engineer here. Development length is the length required to fully develop the rebars tensile strength in the concrete. Meaning that, should the rebar be fully developed in Concrete, the bar will snap before it pulls out of the concrete. Hope that helps!
I still don’t understand why the Overlap Length Has to be what it is. I mean, how are 20 inches better than 4 inches in preventing it from snapping? Also how do you tie the overlap pieces together? Are you doing that with the same kind of wire? Every 1 inch? every 3 inches?
Hello Sir, I wondered for a small time what it was about your channel that has me as a subscriber. Sure, I worked construction for a few months as a kid. Mixing mud, carting bricks and then doing the reo for in-ground swimming pools. As well as hand mixing concrete for many months as I helped improve the family home. It was not the nostalgia that drew me in. It is that you are an expert. Given the Interwebs allows you to access all manner of idiot and ignorance, having access to an expert is refreshing. Rewarding. Almost comforting. Thank you very much.
I do concrete in large commercial settings. Typically we get a rebar drawing that shows how all the rebar should be tied and in the rebar drawings there’s a lap schedule that tells you how much lap you should have on your bars. It varies depending on what size the bars are and whether they’re epoxy coated or not. I don’t know if you’ve ever seen that but I figured I’d let you know my experience. Good video.
Good to hear you encourage and promote the permit process, far too many contractors ignore the plans if they ever had any, and do what they think is correct, which 99% of the time they are wrong.
There is alot of bending over in construction. And I'm not just taking about taking it from permits and city planners. I'm talking about actually bending at the knees and waist. It's gotta be hell on you're joints. Great video Mr W :)
Anchor Bait I’m an apprentice Glazier and I’ve worked with guys that have had shoulder surgery and back surgery. It’s hard on the entire body, but as a tradesman you take great pride in your work at the end.
Im in the beginning phases of the home building process. I'm a DIY kind of individual, that has turned it into a career. Industrial automation, metalworking, computer programming, electrician, and a few other odd skills ive taught myself to do at a professional level. Residential construction is the one type of building experience i'm lacking. I've been doing what i always do, learn intensely until i'm confident i can at least try whatever it is. I was only a week into an information binge when i caught one of your recent videos in the series. I started at 1 and have been glued to it for 2 days. I have 15 pages handwritten in my black book of notes. Going through the concrete work has been fantastic. With every new fact and bit of information you extol I research and learn more on the topic. Thanks for the insight and information, its been amazing to actually learn this way from someone who has done it.
You have it backwards with the forces that each rebar mat resits. The bottom mat is resisting the tension loads in the bottom of the footing caused by the load from above. The top mat is what helps resist the moment forces caused by the retained slope. Edit: It is the concrete itself that is resisting all of the compression forces.
Your videos are nothing less than spectacular. Great to see an experienced professional will to share honest and straight forward information. You remind me of the very best craftmen I've learned from in my life. You sir are a gem. Than you. For your videos.
7:27 - Hey Nate, try a cordless angle grinder and a cutoff wheel next time you have to cut re-mesh. I used to cut it like that, but once I tried a cut-off wheel I found that it was far superior. I love the channel, thank you both for sharing your craft.
Telling it like it's supposed to be....and then doing it. Great job. I truly love watching a professional that can" talk the talk and walk the walk!" ....13
Why would anybody not like this video it shows guys who know what they're doing . I've never seen as pretty form and rebar work and with the science behind it
A concise definition of development length: the development length is the embedment length of a bar to develop its full strength. What you were showing in the beginning of the video was a lap splice. The required lap splice, is as you said, the length in which two bars lapped would be equivalent to one continuous bar. Some great videos here thanks so much for the effort and insight, I have learned a lot!
Hey, I have been watching your videos for years. I'm taking my 3rd block for carpentry in nova Scotia canada, our instructor brought up some of your videos to reference in class! Though you might like to know you have made your way into the classroom training the next generation of carpenters. Tyler manthorne
Cover on rebar also protects rebar from carbonation of the concrete. Concrete is highly alkaline which prevents rusting. CO2 in atmosphere is absorbed by the outside facing concrete but only penetrates so far in good concrete. Carbonation reduces alkalinity, allows rusting and then concrete will stall. Cover also prevents cracking of the face as it shrinks during setting. Good luck and keep the vids coming. Rich CEng MICE
Looks great Im a master carpenter living in Florida your commentaries and videos are very clear and enjoyable to watch sorry to say I can longer apply myself to the trade that I love. But I still have most of my tools and my apron which is something like looking at a old book a lot of memories . born 1957 started helping Dad at the age of 13 but I did not volunteer and that is how the story started. Once again Thank You
Great vid of important details that few others ever discuss (often gloss over the "why" of the details, or ignore entirely). Way too many - supposed - concrete experts on UA-cam are nothing but hacks that I wouldn't allow on a job site of mine.
Started helping do stamped patios and driveways this past summer. I can definitely tie rebar but not as well as you! And The rebar trees save some much lifting when pouring. We use a plastic type tree that snaps on.
I really love this series!! I am a mechanical engineer looking to get into house flipping, and I love your attention to detail. I can tell you are doing thiings right
Never having done this, it's a good thing that I can watch it twice to fully understand it,....well, maybe three times. I'm gunna get back to the head gasket on my 47 Buick, that's simple.
One of the first videos I watched was about 3 months ago. Love them. One of the new tools one of the videos demonstrated was a power wire twister for re bar installation. It took a reel of wire and if I recall correctly you just pushed the tool against the rebar intersection needing to be wired and pulled the trigger. IfI recall the brand I believe it was Bosch or Mikita. It was blue. I believe there was an extension to let you run the tool without bending over. That help any of the old wire twisters. JoeB
Really cool. Any wait for you to get to framing! I think for a lot of people, this lets them see the entire process instead of just their specific trade or interest. Thanks for your knowledge!
There's another method of tying rebar using prefab short pieces of wire with loops on both ends that wrap around and you place the hook end of a yankee-screwdriver type tool through the loops, pull and it twists the wire easily, almost instantaneously. Working in 115 degree heat in Southern California, that's the way I built my house. It's a little added cost...who cares. It did the job in half the time and saved my back.
Beautiful work. Work that really nobody will see. Thats why the roman coliseum is still standing. What about that wire spinner that just hooks on and as you pull it spins?
Yeah you grab the end of the wire and it just keeps feeding it out until its empty..theyre so nice for skip tying a large slab...cause they hold quit a bit of wire
Hm.. in Oz we got pre-made tie wire that has got a sling at both ends. 150mm long and bit thicker 200mm long. Slings are about 1 cm in diameter. Looks like this: images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/25247bba-7bc9-4ed8-825c-1643a0eb85d2/svn/grip-rite-rebar-remesh-bt176100r-64_1000.jpg If you then take a screw hook that you normally use for hanging your keys onto when it's screwed into a wall and use that in a battery driven drill.. images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/f1f4bb7f-9e62-44de-b866-d93062ac48c8/svn/everbilt-screw-eyes-803282-64_1000.jpg ..well, I can tell you, it's faster than what everyone else does. You'll wind up tying every knot there possible is and not stop at half of them, that's how easy it becomes.
I hope Nate appreciates the education he is getting... and I hope you appreciate the mileage on old bones he is saving you. I like your lift cages. I too am a firm believer in good enough, isn't.
Obviously ,good idea to get re bar in proper place for structural integrity and proper coverage for rust prevention. However, concrete is not water proof,unless ..........one orders the concrete from the ready mix plant with an integral water proofing material. In footings and foundations,it is always a very wise move to do so. One brand that comes to mind is Hy-crete. If your batch plant does not carry it,with sufficient lead time,I'm sure they can source it or another available brand. Good video !
He was tying saddles for the verts, and what you are describing does not sound like a saddle. Also there is a different tie called a figure eight, plus template ties, suck ties and adding a wrap to any off the foremention ties.
Nice job. Correct on the lap. Most time its a standard lap on 10m 15m etc. When you do large projects it can all change. We call "clearances" cover. Hog pannel is a new term. Also we call the spacers you use chairs. Respect from Canada. Local 721
When tieing in the dowels, if you tie a 'set up' every five feet and then tie in a longitudinal a few inches down from the top of the bar, then you don't have to tie to the mat under the template, top mat, etc. Plus you get some safety. if some one falls on the dowel, they do not get impailed.
and by 'set up' i mean a bar that is plumb according to a level and tied well so that you do not have to tie every other bar nearly as well. The length and thickness of these dowels are small and you can plumb them up with minimal effort after the pour. But if you had #8 or #10 dowels for a few dozen feet and had to plumb them up with a hickey, you would be cursing the guy who put them in sloppy
Yep, and a few bar driven into the bank as support would completely eliminate the wood frame need for the upright dowels. Less things in the way for the pour. 😀
@@noahludford3667 wrong! you and the other dipshit dont know what you're talking about and it doesnt take that long to tie in verts i could have done this whole footing by myself in just a couple of hours.you start making it to where the ironworker has to put his own template on one job then it starts spreading to others and it becomes the norm and they start becoming responsible if the wall moves,no thanks. and plus the template serves as top of pour for finishers.
In the south our home builders make a huge burn pile in front of the house after framing. Most of the times this includes materials that are illegal to burn and during a burn ban. Please make a video on this part of the process.
Gj buddy!! Rebar is not an easy task especially footings. Im a rodbuster and seeing u guys do all that work was impressive. Huge fan of your channel and you are definatley the kinda construction worker I plan to be like. Again huge fan of all your work and videos
2:40 My suggestion is when measuring 18" distances, just grab some scrap wood, mark it at 18". Now use it as a template, or spacer to mark your 18" intervals. Instead of having to use a measuring tape. We do this anytime we have to measure the same short distance over and over and over again.
the problem with that is compounding error - if your measuring stick is off (even slightly) or if you aren't placing it EXACTLY on the correct mark left the time before (which is almost impossible to do), over a long distance that amount of error can add up considerably. By using a measuring tape on the other hand, you're always marking the correct place in relation to the start point. It's much more accurate.
Suggestion...I have a degree in CivilEngineering and worked summers doing pull out tests for Md, State Road Dept. in U of Md Engineering Lab. Not sure if my suggestion would pass the prof engineering exams but why not make a “story board” for the 18” measurements? Say a 12 ft 2x4 marked at your 18 “ increments. Lay it across your chair brackets and wire in your cross rebar at each mark on the story board. Chance of multiple errors is diminished. Unless you are building a nuclear sub or rocket ship, a small error of say an inch total error in a 12 ft run won’t cause catastrophic failure. Worry about the yo yo adding gallons of water to your concrete still in the batch truck to make it a little easier to place. Great video, real life talent. Should probably be teaching in a trade school. JoeB
Ironworker here! Only thing I can say is that you only need 2 full wraps of the wire. Snap it around with your hand then, with the pliers, you wrap it again. I would NEVER use that hook tool. You will never get the wire tight enough. Other than that, nice work, Essential Craftsman!
Good on you mate thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. I've seen alot of rebar and reinforcing mesh on the ground and not suspended and even heard tie wires are sometimes not bent down and ends are too close to the surface. I've seen old concrete ripped up and see the majority of reinforcing exposed and the reinforcing is left on the ground whe concrete is poored , this happens alot and I new someone that had a back swimming pool that fell victim to concrete cancer only because the idiots that tie the rebar together forget to bend the ties parallel to the rebar and they are too close to the surface. Good to hear someone who knows what their doing. Yet it's going to be interesting to hear what comes out about how that apartment block in Miami collapsed, if concrete cancer is neglected it spreads and things like that will happen eventially . Thanks for your info and knowledge.
Little comment on development length/lapping length: I believe development length refers to the free end of the rebar. Development length is how long the rebar needs to be embedded in concrete so that its firmly bonded ("grip") with the concrete. Lapping length is the distance of the rebar needed to transfer load from one rebar to the other as they overlap....
hey man, a bit morbid but here's something from the bottom of my heart. i lost my dad to septicaemia in 2003 i was 8 years old, he was a tradesman and craftsman, and i miss him dearly. he was half way through building our house from the ground up when he died, when news of his death got around the vultures descended and emptied his shop of all it was worth, it had a catastrophic effect on the lives of me and my mum. there was huge amount of knowledge that was lost with him, masonry, plastering, mechanics, philosophy, business, and i never had a decent chance to learn any of that from him like i should have done, so i'd just like to say that these videos mean a lot to me and will help me rebuild the life of me and my family metaphorically and literally, and help me continue my dad's legacy. so, thank you for it all.
Hi lade you need to go to College to learn all of this?
construction at college here in the UK is full of the idiots who can't think, it's terribly sad, but because of that it doesn't get enough funding to be of much use to people who actually want to strike out and do it to any meaningful degree besides being some apprentice that carries bricks, it's too low level and isn't designed for anyone with any passion or intuition. i've learnt more from this series so far than i would've learned in a year of paid education at college.
@@gramursowanfaborden5820 Apprentice to a small or up-and-coming general contractor. You could teach yourself but it will take a lot longer. (US advice, not sure how things work in loicense-land).
@@tienglongmy you're right, with the right people... about 9 months ago i joined a program for young people to get them into the construction industry, it was promised to be a full package that gave us the skills, qualifications and experience we needed to get out and about, and technically it was that, but it was utterly miserable, spending half the time on-site and the other half in a portable cabin classroom next to the site office, the tradesmen didn't want us to be there, the foremen didn't want us to be there, and so mostly we were just running errands, and of course carrying bricks (no surprises there!) though i did get to carry some concrete slabs, timber, doors... all the while desperately trying to learn the ropes, learn some skills working with different trades and earn some respect, sadly those actual benefits were lacking. i got my CSCS card (our loicense to work on-site), and that was it, it was a huge disappointment and a waste of three months of my life watching greenfield land be polluted with building sand, nails, plastic clips and broken saw blades being covered in cheap "homes" that won't last 30 years despite leaving a permanent blight for ever more. it has taught me some valuable lessons, but not the ones they intended.
i'm still going for it but it's on my own terms now, i've seen some of the worst of the construction industry build some of the worst houses and i will not do it any more, so i'm currently looking at some traditional firms that sympathetically maintain, restore and rebuild historical buildings, Cornish hedgers (similar to dry stone walls), and traditional crafts like smithing, forestry, thatchwork, something that makes me feel as though i'm doing good, conservation, not development.
@pete smyth thank you. i didn't know either of my grandfathers very well either, now i'm the last man in the family. i've got nobody close to learn from, but i'm learning myself, slowly, and thanks to some great UA-cam channels like this one. i'm buying some land soon, gonna build a workshop, continue the family legacy whether the universe wants me to or not.
Pure living for life shows us how to do it the hard way . Essential Craftsman shows us how a professional works.
tony butcher, you’re absolutely right. Got tired of watching amateurs doing rework, although sometimes the soap-opera gets a chuckle from me.
You are correct, but the PLF never claimed to be pros, EC is a pro with a lot of experience under his belt, oh wait, suspenders, but yeah, it is sure nice to see a real craftsman at work!
Sometimes I watch those two losers just to feel better about myself. Scott here is truly a 're lesson of what I do daily and I couldn't be happier
PLF has become hard to watch over time, it has just turned into garbage with mass confusion. I enjoy EC based on his ability to explain technical issues, and the fact I feel confident in his ability - that makes it all enjoyable.
It's become 25 minute videos why they are off a 1/8" on their trusses that they are explaining how it happened months ago in the excavation or something irrelevant. People just want to see them build but I think the process is so slow they've been forced to substitute ALOT of useless footage into their videos, to hide the fact there is no building really taking place. I really liked their channel but since the whole water system adventure to this house debacle they've under taken, it just hurts me to watch sometimes.
We'll see if that house gets closed in before winter can completely warp, saturate, and twist every bit of lumber they've spent all fall putting up.
Here’s the help you were looking for. You were close with your definition of “development length” but there is one major difference. Development length is the minimum length of rebar that is required to be embedded into concrete in order for the piece of rebar to properly transfer the load from the rebar into the concrete. That’s the basic definition but it also has variables. There are tension development lengths and compression development lengths, each is the minimum length required to develop either tension or compression (for example columns on simple structures are typically in compression, while beams will have bars that are in tension and compression, depending if it’s a top bar or bottom bar in the beam). In your video, what you are calling the development length is actually what’s called the “lap splice length” and the name is self explanatory. The difference between lap splice length and development length is that lap splice length is the minimum length of lap required to properly transfer the stress or load from one bar to the next bar as if it were a continuous bar. Development length is the transfer of load from one rebar to the concrete itself, with no lap or other rebar.
Please also keep in mind that these minimum lengths, development or lap splice, will vary greatly depending on the strength of concrete you use, grade of rebar you use, tension or compression use, and also the clear cover used (3” off the ground in your video). Often times, for interior columns let’s say, 1.5” is requested and that little bit less of concrete requires a slightly longer lap splice. Sorry for the long response but there are a few variables that determine these things and the explanations require a lot of explaining, which you so kindly do for us so I’m just returning the favor. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks.
nybirdman when youre lapping your vertical 'starter' bars then you can say development length.
Oh, i forgot to mention the most important variable, the size of the rebar (its late). The bigger the bar, the larger the development and lap splice length required. Always, always, use the drawings to determine these lengths as a #3 lap splice length can be 16” in some applications and a #11 can be 9’ or 108”. And in case you were wondering, epoxy Coated or “green bar” requires even longer lengths because the coating is smoother and doesn’t transfer the stress as well. Like i said, there’s a number of variables so always check the drawings and know the application. Best of luck to you all.
Judey Kun i mean i guess you can call it whatever you’d like but from an engineering perspective, lap splice length is NOT the same as development length.
Just weld the rebar together =D
nybirdman
I am truly a novice, but have helped build two houses in the past. Somebody has mentioned welding the rebar together and I am assuming this is OK. Could you share thoughts on this, such as how much should be overlapped and welded together if at all? I have built a couple of retaining walls around my house and welded the rebar together to make it one continuous structure because I did not know how much overlap to use.
I dig the jobsite power nap. I've done it myself countless times. A 10-15 minute refresher is by far more effective than any energy drink or coffee.
Entertaining, intelligent and informative. You are a rare combination, Sir. Thank you for presenting these videos in such a way that is very user friendly.
I have watched this particular sequence of concrete preparation and pouring videos I think a dozen times so far. I think I'm finally catching all the jargon and understanding what you are doing. Thanks a lot for putting these to video. It's been really helpful.
Your boy looks like a good worker, that is a blessing.
Essential Craftsman, the Lord has also blessed me with three boys and a girl. It is my sincere hope that I can train them up to be hard workers in all aspects of their lives. I enjoy the content you folks produce, best wishes, and may the Lord continue to bless you and yours.
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09:10 - while you are holding the verts in place for your mate to tie, put your thumb over the end of the bar. A thumb knuckle in the eye is not as painful as rebar-end in the eye. Carry a shoulder-bag of mushrooms to fit over the ends as soon as they are in place. You only get one pair of eyes, look after them!
Former logger, current ironworker and as much as I do my best to avoid rebar work, I would help you with a smile on my face. Love your channel!
But just think if you know how to rebar ONE day you will build your own house and save a ton of cash. That knowledge is priceless.
Engineer here. Development length is the length required to fully develop the rebars tensile strength in the concrete. Meaning that, should the rebar be fully developed in Concrete, the bar will snap before it pulls out of the concrete. Hope that helps!
Snap? I'm sure you meant yield...
I still don’t understand why the Overlap Length Has to be what it is. I mean, how are 20 inches better than 4 inches in preventing it from snapping? Also how do you tie the overlap pieces together? Are you doing that with the same kind of wire? Every 1 inch? every 3 inches?
Hello Sir,
I wondered for a small time what it was about your channel that has me as a subscriber. Sure, I worked construction for a few months as a kid. Mixing mud, carting bricks and then doing the reo for in-ground swimming pools. As well as hand mixing concrete for many months as I helped improve the family home.
It was not the nostalgia that drew me in.
It is that you are an expert.
Given the Interwebs allows you to access all manner of idiot and ignorance, having access to an expert is refreshing. Rewarding. Almost comforting.
Thank you very much.
I do concrete in large commercial settings. Typically we get a rebar drawing that shows how all the rebar should be tied and in the rebar drawings there’s a lap schedule that tells you how much lap you should have on your bars. It varies depending on what size the bars are and whether they’re epoxy coated or not. I don’t know if you’ve ever seen that but I figured I’d let you know my experience. Good video.
Man do I wish your videos were around back in 1979 when I was learning how to be a general contractor.
Good to hear you encourage and promote the permit process, far too many contractors ignore the plans if they ever had any, and do what they think is correct, which 99% of the time they are wrong.
There is alot of bending over in construction. And I'm not just taking about taking it from permits and city planners. I'm talking about actually bending at the knees and waist. It's gotta be hell on you're joints. Great video Mr W :)
Anchor Bait I’m an apprentice Glazier and I’ve worked with guys that have had shoulder surgery and back surgery. It’s hard on the entire body, but as a tradesman you take great pride in your work at the end.
That's why it's called work......retired reinforcing Ironworker. Been there, done that.
@@roddiener I'll HIRE YOU! 😁
@@rxonmymind8362 too late.....retired, belts hanging in the garage........
Im in the beginning phases of the home building process. I'm a DIY kind of individual, that has turned it into a career. Industrial automation, metalworking, computer programming, electrician, and a few other odd skills ive taught myself to do at a professional level. Residential construction is the one type of building experience i'm lacking. I've been doing what i always do, learn intensely until i'm confident i can at least try whatever it is.
I was only a week into an information binge when i caught one of your recent videos in the series. I started at 1 and have been glued to it for 2 days. I have 15 pages handwritten in my black book of notes. Going through the concrete work has been fantastic. With every new fact and bit of information you extol I research and learn more on the topic. Thanks for the insight and information, its been amazing to actually learn this way from someone who has done it.
You have it backwards with the forces that each rebar mat resits. The bottom mat is resisting the tension loads in the bottom of the footing caused by the load from above. The top mat is what helps resist the moment forces caused by the retained slope.
Edit: It is the concrete itself that is resisting all of the compression forces.
Love these videos, theres no bullshit, its straight to the point and not repetitive, packed full of knowledge
Your videos are nothing less than spectacular. Great to see an experienced professional will to share honest and straight forward information. You remind me of the very best craftmen I've learned from in my life. You sir are a gem. Than you. For your videos.
I get "smarter" everytime I listen to you. Bless you!!
The intermission is my favorite part.
7:27 - Hey Nate, try a cordless angle grinder and a cutoff wheel next time you have to cut re-mesh. I used to cut it like that, but once I tried a cut-off wheel I found that it was far superior. I love the channel, thank you both for sharing your craft.
Telling it like it's supposed to be....and then doing it. Great job.
I truly love watching a professional that can" talk the talk and walk the walk!"
....13
Why would anybody not like this video it shows guys who know what they're doing . I've never seen as pretty form and rebar work and with the science behind it
A concise definition of development length: the development length is the embedment length of a bar to develop its full strength. What you were showing in the beginning of the video was a lap splice. The required lap splice, is as you said, the length in which two bars lapped would be equivalent to one continuous bar. Some great videos here thanks so much for the effort and insight, I have learned a lot!
Hey, I have been watching your videos for years. I'm taking my 3rd block for carpentry in nova Scotia canada, our instructor brought up some of your videos to reference in class! Though you might like to know you have made your way into the classroom training the next generation of carpenters.
Tyler manthorne
Love this series. Great job explaining everything.
You're an inspiration to me, keep up the good work. Thinking about supporting you on Patreon for all your invaluable experience you're sharing.
Cover on rebar also protects rebar from carbonation of the concrete. Concrete is highly alkaline which prevents rusting. CO2 in atmosphere is absorbed by the outside facing concrete but only penetrates so far in good concrete. Carbonation reduces alkalinity, allows rusting and then concrete will stall. Cover also prevents cracking of the face as it shrinks during setting.
Good luck and keep the vids coming. Rich CEng MICE
Looks great Im a master carpenter living in Florida your commentaries and videos are very clear and enjoyable to watch sorry to say I can longer apply myself to the trade that I love. But I still have most of my tools and my apron which is something like looking at a old book a lot of memories . born 1957 started helping Dad at the age of 13 but I did not volunteer and that is how the story started. Once again Thank You
I always learn something from your videos Scott.
Thanks to you & Nate for all the information.
That is some fancy looking rebar tie-ups.
Eric
The reel all day
Nate should be grateful you are his mentor. I bet he prospers because of it.
It's always a pleasure to learn from you and watch your professionally made videos. Thank you once again.
Great video. Great music. I think that being a musician contributes to the overall potency of your shows.
Great vid of important details that few others ever discuss (often gloss over the "why" of the details, or ignore entirely). Way too many - supposed - concrete experts on UA-cam are nothing but hacks that I wouldn't allow on a job site of mine.
Started helping do stamped patios and driveways this past summer. I can definitely tie rebar but not as well as you!
And The rebar trees save some much lifting when pouring. We use a plastic type tree that snaps on.
I’m learning so much from you and your channel. I’m a Commercial and industrial electrician.
I really love this series!! I am a mechanical engineer looking to get into house flipping, and I love your attention to detail. I can tell you are doing thiings right
Never having done this, it's a good thing that I can watch it twice to fully understand it,....well, maybe three times. I'm gunna get back to the head gasket on my 47 Buick, that's simple.
Every time I watch this channel I feel like my grandpa is teaching me. Thank you for your lessons and guidance sensei.
One of the first videos I watched was about 3 months ago. Love them. One of the new tools one of the videos demonstrated was a power wire twister for re bar installation. It took a reel of wire and if I recall correctly you just pushed the tool against the rebar intersection needing to be wired and pulled the trigger. IfI recall the brand I believe it was Bosch or Mikita. It was blue. I believe there was an extension to let you run the tool without bending over. That help any of the old wire twisters.
JoeB
I saw all of this tools and material In hDsupply white cap. They are everywhere
Really cool. Any wait for you to get to framing! I think for a lot of people, this lets them see the entire process instead of just their specific trade or interest. Thanks for your knowledge!
Work fascinates me, I could watch it all day.
Thank you, great tips! Love the impact hammer shovel attachment!
I haven’t heard this album in years kudos on the good music the Johnny Staats Project
Veteran Rodbuster.
Good video, nice improv.
And 2 eps at once! Great way to relax after work.
There's another method of tying rebar using prefab short pieces of wire with loops on both ends that wrap around and you place the hook end of a yankee-screwdriver type tool through the loops, pull and it twists the wire easily, almost instantaneously. Working in 115 degree heat in Southern California, that's the way I built my house. It's a little added cost...who cares. It did the job in half the time and saved my back.
I always enjoy your videos! You are a good teacher.
Very nice job on the concert form work .
thank you for the well explained video, feel confident to tackle job
Beautiful work. Work that really nobody will see. Thats why the roman coliseum is still standing. What about that wire spinner that just hooks on and as you pull it spins?
I have one of those. Like a Yankee push drill in reverse. Works great for the little I do - great for wire fencing with T posts too I might add!
Yeah you grab the end of the wire and it just keeps feeding it out until its empty..theyre so nice for skip tying a large slab...cause they hold quit a bit of wire
Hm.. in Oz we got pre-made tie wire that has got a sling at both ends.
150mm long and bit thicker 200mm long.
Slings are about 1 cm in diameter.
Looks like this:
images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/25247bba-7bc9-4ed8-825c-1643a0eb85d2/svn/grip-rite-rebar-remesh-bt176100r-64_1000.jpg
If you then take a screw hook that you normally use for hanging your keys onto when it's screwed into a wall and use that in a battery driven drill..
images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/f1f4bb7f-9e62-44de-b866-d93062ac48c8/svn/everbilt-screw-eyes-803282-64_1000.jpg
..well, I can tell you, it's faster than what everyone else does.
You'll wind up tying every knot there possible is and not stop at half of them, that's how easy it becomes.
they are slow compared to a quick tyer with plyers
Fantastic work. Every video is a learning experience. Thank you
I hope Nate appreciates the education he is getting... and I hope you appreciate the mileage on old bones he is saving you. I like your lift cages. I too am a firm believer in good enough, isn't.
Obviously ,good idea to get re bar in proper place for structural integrity and proper coverage for rust prevention. However, concrete is not water proof,unless ..........one orders the concrete from the ready mix plant with an integral water proofing material. In footings and foundations,it is always a very wise move to do so. One brand that comes to mind is Hy-crete. If your batch plant does not carry it,with sufficient lead time,I'm sure they can source it or another available brand. Good video !
I just realized why I like your videos. You remind me of a real life Ben Cartwright
I like the 6" mat you used to suspend genius.
You guys would be awesome to work with. Very knowledgeable, and friendly.
This is the video I've been looking for. Thank you. Even the comments are helpful.
Thank you for the effort to make these videos. I have really enjoy them and learning a bunch
You should show people how to tie saddles as well .where you loop around the bottom re bar twice and make sort of a figure 8
He was tying saddles for the verts, and what you are describing does not sound like a saddle. Also there is a different tie called a figure eight, plus template ties, suck ties and adding a wrap to any off the foremention ties.
Wow, as someone not from the US I never knew #5 bar means 5/8" and so on. Makes a lot more sense now!
Great video series i like the detail you are going into with each step of the build.
Two E C in one day yes!!! More trick of the trade thank you.
Beautiful job
it's like christmas! 2 E.C. uploads at the same time
Nice job. Correct on the lap. Most time its a standard lap on 10m 15m etc. When you do large projects it can all change. We call "clearances" cover. Hog pannel is a new term. Also we call the spacers you use chairs. Respect from Canada. Local 721
Informative as expected. Bluegrass is outstanding. Thanks again.
When tieing in the dowels, if you tie a 'set up' every five feet and then tie in a longitudinal a few inches down from the top of the bar, then you don't have to tie to the mat under the template, top mat, etc. Plus you get some safety. if some one falls on the dowel, they do not get impailed.
and by 'set up' i mean a bar that is plumb according to a level and tied well so that you do not have to tie every other bar nearly as well. The length and thickness of these dowels are small and you can plumb them up with minimal effort after the pour. But if you had #8 or #10 dowels for a few dozen feet and had to plumb them up with a hickey, you would be cursing the guy who put them in sloppy
Yep, and a few bar driven into the bank as support would completely eliminate the wood frame need for the upright dowels. Less things in the way for the pour. 😀
wrong! i did this for 35 years and he did it the way it should be done and if you want safety put a cap on the top of the dowel
@@noahludford3667 wrong! you and the other dipshit dont know what you're talking about and it doesnt take that long to tie in verts i could have done this whole footing by myself in just a couple of hours.you start making it to where the ironworker has to put his own template on one job then it starts spreading to others and it becomes the norm and they start becoming responsible if the wall moves,no thanks. and plus the template serves as top of pour for finishers.
In the south our home builders make a huge burn pile in front of the house after framing. Most of the times this includes materials that are illegal to burn and during a burn ban. Please make a video on this part of the process.
I have a hook tool similar to that which is over 100 years old. It wasn't used for use on rebar but for barbed wire instead.
Gj buddy!!
Rebar is not an easy task especially footings.
Im a rodbuster and seeing u guys do all that work was impressive.
Huge fan of your channel and you are definatley the kinda construction worker I plan to be like.
Again huge fan of all your work and videos
great video. I have no experience with this aspect of the building. Thanks for the opportunity to see it being done.
That settles it. I shall henceforth have no more "power naps", from now on it is "intermissions" only for me. Awesome...!
You are truly an artist, setting up forms👍
2:40 My suggestion is when measuring 18" distances, just grab some scrap wood, mark it at 18". Now use it as a template, or spacer to mark your 18" intervals. Instead of having to use a measuring tape.
We do this anytime we have to measure the same short distance over and over and over again.
the problem with that is compounding error - if your measuring stick is off (even slightly) or if you aren't placing it EXACTLY on the correct mark left the time before (which is almost impossible to do), over a long distance that amount of error can add up considerably.
By using a measuring tape on the other hand, you're always marking the correct place in relation to the start point. It's much more accurate.
Suggestion...I have a degree in CivilEngineering and worked summers doing pull out tests for Md, State Road Dept. in U of Md Engineering Lab. Not sure if my suggestion would pass the prof engineering exams but why not make a “story board” for the 18” measurements? Say a 12 ft 2x4 marked at your 18 “ increments. Lay it across your chair brackets and wire in your cross rebar at each mark on the story board. Chance of multiple errors is diminished. Unless you are building a nuclear sub or rocket ship, a small error of say an inch total error in a 12 ft run won’t cause catastrophic failure. Worry about the yo yo adding gallons of water to your concrete still in the batch truck to make it a little easier to place.
Great video, real life talent. Should probably be teaching in a trade school.
JoeB
I like your idea of the hog wire. If it's too high you can always dent it to lower your top rebar layer.
this man does everything
Over 20 years ago I did hald the parking spot place. 4inches of concrete and inside a wire fence. Never cracked under any vehicle load. 😋
Love your videos. Can't wait for the next upload.
looking great so far
Ironworker here! Only thing I can say is that you only need 2 full wraps of the wire. Snap it around with your hand then, with the pliers, you wrap it again. I would NEVER use that hook tool. You will never get the wire tight enough. Other than that, nice work, Essential Craftsman!
Enjoying the series!
what a great informative video. i have been yet to find one that talks about spacing. putting this in my favorites.
This is amazing !
Love this video man.. Very short but i have learned a lot. Thanks.
Thanks I learned a lot.
Very good information, esp. the hog fencing idea. Thank you!
HOW DID I END UP HERE GOOD VIDEO VERY RELAXING KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Lot of work. In New England we hire a form guy. He installs the forms, calls for inspection, and controls the pour.
I love your videos
Good on you mate thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. I've seen alot of rebar and reinforcing mesh on the ground and not suspended and even heard tie wires are sometimes not bent down and ends are too close to the surface. I've seen old concrete ripped up and see the majority of reinforcing exposed and the reinforcing is left on the ground whe concrete is poored , this happens alot and I new someone that had a back swimming pool that fell victim to concrete cancer only because the idiots that tie the rebar together forget to bend the ties parallel to the rebar and they are too close to the surface. Good to hear someone who knows what their doing. Yet it's going to be interesting to hear what comes out about how that apartment block in Miami collapsed, if concrete cancer is neglected it spreads and things like that will happen eventially . Thanks for your info and knowledge.
Little comment on development length/lapping length:
I believe development length refers to the free end of the rebar. Development length is how long the rebar needs to be embedded in concrete so that its firmly bonded ("grip") with the concrete.
Lapping length is the distance of the rebar needed to transfer load from one rebar to the other as they overlap....
Another excellent explanation of what and why...
You made a footing into a work of art.
JerkRice - no. a swimming pool is a 'work of art'.
That pneumatic shovel is genius
that smoke was rough there this year. was out there about the same time period, hope things are wetter next year!
I can't tell you how much I wish you leaved near me because my family needs a shed built to the new hurricane compliance from the ground up.