Kind of disconcerting how quiet it is when you stop lol. Impressive. I would bother with Regen braking. If your ever at a friend's house whose droning on and you really want to leave you can always say... well I left the car running, I really should get going ;-)
Thank you for posting this information. I have a mostly stock '76 Midget that I never drive anymore, but have thought about converting it to an EV. I'll use your videos as a resource if I ever pursue it. My daily driver is an older Chevy Volt and I have been a fan of EVs since the 1990s. Keep up the good work, and please ignore the baffling negative comments I have seen on some of your other videos.
Sorry for the pedantry, but i can pretty much guarantee your car is not more EFFICIENT than a Tesla! What you mean is that is has lower emergy CONSUMPTION than a Tesla, which is quite clearly because it's tiny and can only seat 2 people! Most of the roadload for a car is due to aerodrag, so despite having a terrible drag co-efficient, your car has low consumption because it's tiny frontal area more than offsets it's low (relatively speaking) efficiency ie it's ability to turn electrical energy in the battery into useful work at the drive wheels. Its pedantry because your point stands, but using the correct terminology is, i believe, important 🙂 BTW, love the little car, great conversion you've done too!
I doubt he went fast enough for areo to be even as much of a factor as rolling resistance let alone the dominant factor. It did good because it's lighter than a model 3.
Bumps are normal in an MG. The fact that it still rolls is amazing, as the suspension, body, and springs rarely make it to 50k! Consider new leaf springs, they like to weaken then fracture.
77 Midget and 58, 59, 60 and 60 Bugeye Sprites here. The range on my 60 Sprite and 77 Midget is about 250 miles per tank. The range on my ass is about 90 miles on the bugeye because the seats are flat steel plates under the foam. I get more range out of the Midget because those seats are webbing based under the foam. 90 miles of range for me here in upstate NY would be plenty.
@mundanestuff For a 76 Midget, I was seeing 26mpg average from Fuelly users, times 7 gallons is 180mi. I'm sure you could drive more efficiently and stretch that much further
Do you have a heater in the car? I'm guessing no. Maybe something camping propane canister based. Coming out at your feet. If your windshield ever frosted over you can just toss warm water on it. Or even better keep it in an attached garage and just park a power plugged in oil filled heater inside set on some plyboard on the passenger seat. Looks like an excellent grocery go getter in the winter.
@zuccamachine Heated garage seems like the way to go. Add some PC computer dc fans for cooling of the motor and battery in the summer when you do the AC swap. My dad added a front air scoop for cooling to my 300z. There's another idea for a car body... a Datsun 240/260/280z. A lot of space up front and under hatch for batteries. I want one... If you ever want to build a second with the knowledge you've gained in the process I'll fund and buy car #2. I want a good body blue one tho. :) I'm miss my Midget, only need 60 mile range, and this gets rid of the flakey British motor. Not the rust tho :/ MGs suffer from a lot of rust if neglected. MG TC or TD done this way would be even better, if you could also replace the dog box transmission at the same time with something else. Rather that but hearing a classic MG TD tho, I'd actually try something with like an MG TD fiberglass kit car body (much cheaper), but instead of a VW engine make it electric from the get go.
@@zuccamachine I'm thinking maybe the old school race car layout format / cycle cart layout, with all the batteries in the long front nose, as long as you want, and the motor and electronics in the rear right behind a single seat... but how to find a chassis that existed as a car, I can register as a car. The bonus is everything is bloody right there under a removable panel out in the open to work on ua-cam.com/video/njkoZLWx74Q/v-deo.html
@@zuccamachine My dad cut up a running Honda Civic to shorten it and move the engine to rear, to build what I thought was just a Honda CRX. I told him, why don't you just buy a Honda CRX... and showed him an Ariel Atom and Shelby Cobra replica kit, and say why don't you build these instead...but he was unperturbed. He did some crazy stuff, like running the radiator fluid through the tubular frame of the car. He got it running down the road, put it on hold, and it sat until he died. I bet I could start with that, take the Civic engine off of it, and use his rolling steerable tubular frame, and the transmission.
Kind of disconcerting how quiet it is when you stop lol. Impressive. I would bother with Regen braking.
If your ever at a friend's house whose droning on and you really want to leave you can always say... well I left the car running, I really should get going ;-)
Thank you for posting this information. I have a mostly stock '76 Midget that I never drive anymore, but have thought about converting it to an EV. I'll use your videos as a resource if I ever pursue it. My daily driver is an older Chevy Volt and I have been a fan of EVs since the 1990s. Keep up the good work, and please ignore the baffling negative comments I have seen on some of your other videos.
When you get to it, use an AC motor! And I'm sure the technology will only be better by the time you decide to do it.
Sorry for the pedantry, but i can pretty much guarantee your car is not more EFFICIENT than a Tesla! What you mean is that is has lower emergy CONSUMPTION than a Tesla, which is quite clearly because it's tiny and can only seat 2 people! Most of the roadload for a car is due to aerodrag, so despite having a terrible drag co-efficient, your car has low consumption because it's tiny frontal area more than offsets it's low (relatively speaking) efficiency ie it's ability to turn electrical energy in the battery into useful work at the drive wheels.
Its pedantry because your point stands, but using the correct terminology is, i believe, important 🙂
BTW, love the little car, great conversion you've done too!
I doubt he went fast enough for areo to be even as much of a factor as rolling resistance let alone the dominant factor. It did good because it's lighter than a model 3.
Good work Sir.
Bumps are normal in an MG. The fact that it still rolls is amazing, as the suspension, body, and springs rarely make it to 50k! Consider new leaf springs, they like to weaken then fracture.
I've got an HPEVS AC76 that I'll sell you! Get your regen on!
Also, you should definitely run some duct work to the brushes to keep all that cool.
@billbayer5526 I might be interested in the AC76! Message me on Instagram- @zuccamachine
77 Midget and 58, 59, 60 and 60 Bugeye Sprites here. The range on my 60 Sprite and 77 Midget is about 250 miles per tank. The range on my ass is about 90 miles on the bugeye because the seats are flat steel plates under the foam. I get more range out of the Midget because those seats are webbing based under the foam. 90 miles of range for me here in upstate NY would be plenty.
@mundanestuff For a 76 Midget, I was seeing 26mpg average from Fuelly users, times 7 gallons is 180mi. I'm sure you could drive more efficiently and stretch that much further
Do you have a heater in the car? I'm guessing no. Maybe something camping propane canister based. Coming out at your feet. If your windshield ever frosted over you can just toss warm water on it. Or even better keep it in an attached garage and just park a power plugged in oil filled heater inside set on some plyboard on the passenger seat. Looks like an excellent grocery go getter in the winter.
@@choppergirl I'll drive it around some more and decide if I need a heater. It would probably be a 1500W 144V DC ceramic heater.
@zuccamachine Heated garage seems like the way to go. Add some PC computer dc fans for cooling of the motor and battery in the summer when you do the AC swap. My dad added a front air scoop for cooling to my 300z. There's another idea for a car body... a Datsun 240/260/280z. A lot of space up front and under hatch for batteries.
I want one... If you ever want to build a second with the knowledge you've gained in the process I'll fund and buy car #2. I want a good body blue one tho. :) I'm miss my Midget, only need 60 mile range, and this gets rid of the flakey British motor. Not the rust tho :/ MGs suffer from a lot of rust if neglected.
MG TC or TD done this way would be even better, if you could also replace the dog box transmission at the same time with something else. Rather that but hearing a classic MG TD tho, I'd actually try something with like an MG TD fiberglass kit car body (much cheaper), but instead of a VW engine make it electric from the get go.
@@zuccamachine I'm thinking maybe the old school race car layout format / cycle cart layout, with all the batteries in the long front nose, as long as you want, and the motor and electronics in the rear right behind a single seat... but how to find a chassis that existed as a car, I can register as a car. The bonus is everything is bloody right there under a removable panel out in the open to work on
ua-cam.com/video/njkoZLWx74Q/v-deo.html
@@zuccamachine My dad cut up a running Honda Civic to shorten it and move the engine to rear, to build what I thought was just a Honda CRX. I told him, why don't you just buy a Honda CRX... and showed him an Ariel Atom and Shelby Cobra replica kit, and say why don't you build these instead...but he was unperturbed.
He did some crazy stuff, like running the radiator fluid through the tubular frame of the car. He got it running down the road, put it on hold, and it sat until he died. I bet I could start with that, take the Civic engine off of it, and use his rolling steerable tubular frame, and the transmission.
@@zuccamachine ua-cam.com/video/wyfxc49reCw/v-deo.html
is that ya boy victors side by side? ev that shit before homie gets back from the balkans