Cleaning and rebuilding a Tecumseh Series 11 carburetor
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- Опубліковано 9 сер 2017
- Cleaning and rebuilding a modern non-adjustable Tecumseh Series 11 carburetor.
DISCLAIMER!
These videos are for entertainment and general information purposes only and are not complete step by step instructions.
Attempt this at your own RISK. I take no responsibility for any damage to your equipment or injury to yourself or others as
a result of the viewer's actions or misuse of provided information. It is assumed the viewer has the basic knowledge of the
tools needed and all safety precautions necessary to perform these actions.
You can contact me by email veteranssmallenginerepair@gmail.com
![Tecumseh 640266 (640288) Detailed Carb Clean [4K]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for the video! Carb cleaner is mostly acetone. Maybe you could save some $ if you just bay a gal of acetone. Don't get it on the mower deck's paint!
thank you very much my friend you helped me to fix my carburetor. thank you again.
I am glad it helped you. Thanks for watching.
Very well made video. The first video that shows a gauge for float specification and adjustment. A few more moments spent on float adjustment would have been great. Thank you for a very interesting and informative video.
Glad you liked it!
Fun fact:
If your float pin is bent or in my case corroded in half, one from an 8hp vertical shaft briggs works perfectly.
IDLE JET HIDDEN SCREW: hi nice video thanks, I just cleaned one, Tecumseh 5hp on a generator, mine had a hidden idle screw below and left slightly from the primer button, there’s a grey rubber cover on it, screw has two holes through it, engine was hunting/surging after total non starter dead fix carb cleaned, but hunting, now fixed perfect
Nice find! Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching.
Great video. I was starting to think the tubes didn't come out. Looks like I need to push harder.
Most do come out but be careful and don't force it.
Great video! Thanks DD
Glad you liked it!
Excellent video
Thanks for watching and commenting!
tip from another video: use a small allen key (wrench) to push the emulsion tube out.
Thanks for the tip, it's good advice.
I was rebuilding one of these yesterday that was really bad and snapped the bulb. I was so pissed because now I haft to order one and wait.
great job sir
Thank you
Sorry to say, but you missed cleaning the idle jet circuit. That small black rubber plug (left of the Primer Bulb and down) about a 1/16" in diameter remove, screw out the brass jet, clean out this jet holes, and there is a passageway in the metal wall of the emulsion tube housing to where that bass jet goes in. That channel plugs causing a rough mower ide. I'm learning all this too. Hey, I like your video. Thanks!
Great catch! Thanks for mentioning it!
Magnífica explicación 😊
I rebuilt mine 2 years ago per Tecumseh service. Manual
Thank you so much>
use a allen wrench to remove emulsion tube
Good tip, thanks.
Thanks. Series 11, is that most old tecumseh engines?
Mine looks exactly like the one you rebuild rebuild
Great video . I am looking for a replacement carburetor for my old lawn mover which has a Tecumseh Prisma 37 engine . Which carburetor will be suitable for the Prisma engine . The existing carburetor only states it is Tecumseh product
Without knowing the exact model number of your mower it's hard to tell.
Great video with detail that is easy to follow and understand.
I have a question that you may or may not be able to help me with. I rebuilt (Partial?) a series 11 carb off of my son's Eager-1 mower.
My son brought me the mower and said it quit on him and he tried to start the mower again with no luck and the mower never fired for him at all.
I checked the spark and he had good spark. Cleaned the carb and still nothing so I removed the spark plug and shot a little gas into the cylinder, put the plug back in and yanked the rope and it kicked over, tried to run but the small amount of gas that I shot into the cylinder was used up so I knew we had a carb problem.
The rebuild, or partial rebuild consisted of me removing old parts, cleaning the carb body and passages like you did and then replacing the rubber needle seat, needle/clip, primer bulb and the emulsion tube, o-rings, bowl gasket, bowl nut gasket and gaskets between carb/air filter and carb/intake.
I also cleaned every little hole that I could find in/on this carb, even the little hole that is inside of the center leg where the emulsion tube is located and the small holes on the outside of the center leg and in the bowl nut. I also added a shut off in the gas line between the tank and carb.
I reinstalled the carb, everything else that was removed or loose back in its place. Put some fresh gas in the tank, opened the shut off that I installed, primed the carb with it feeling like pressure built up behind the primer bulb but not quite sure, pulled the rope, and pulled the rope and pulled the rope with the mower not even sputtering or trying to fire.
I pulled the spark plug, shot gas in the cylinder again and it fired and then stopped. I pulled the fuel bowl off and it had plenty of gas in the bowl. I checked the float and it hung down at a slight angle like it should so I reinstalled gas bowl and tried again with no luck.
I shot more fuel into cylinder and she fired and then died out when the little fuel that I added ran out.
WHAT could keep the fuel from getting drawn up into the emulsion tube and sending vaporized fuel/air into the cylinder?
I am getting ready to change the return spring on the throttle as it seemed a little weak but shouldn't have stopped mower from getting gas or firing as it was open when I tried to start the mower and 95% closed on its own with me helping it close for the other 5%
I am confused on by the carb/fuel problem that I am having but I am at a loss as to what to try next or if I missed a small but obviously crucial step on my rebuild?
HELPPPPPPPP haaa
Thank you very much
It sounds like the carb has gone bad. You might try cleaning all of the orifices in the emulsion tube and bowl nut again. Use the small wire from a twist tie then shoot carb cleaner then compressed air. Make sure the "o" rings are properly seated on the emulsion tube and the tube is installed long end in first. If your carb has a brass insert where the float valve goes like mine, do not use the valve seat. This setup requires a float valve with a rubber like coating on the tip.
Examine the tube housing for cracks etc. If you find any orifices, clean them as described above. Below and to the left of the primer bulb is a small black plastic cap. Under that cap is a non adjustable idle mix screw that can be removed to clean the needle seat opening.
If all of this has been done, all gaskets and "o" rings are in their proper place and it still won't run then most likely the internal fuel passages are clogged. If you have access to an ultra sonic cleaner or a carb dip tank, that might help but a new carb will probably be less expensive and a lot less headaches.
Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
It’s the bolt that holds the bowl on
It’s also a pick up tube
Clean out with wire or small guitar string
You forgote the iddle jet. Just remove that black plastic cap, and unscrew the idle jet. Normaly, since the iddle jet has got very small holes, its where we will find most of the troubles. Nice video thou.
I was just about to say the same thing.
Just today I had a Toro w/ Tecumseh engine that had a leaky float that would fill with gas and leak the fuel into the crankcase.
After cleaning the carb and installing a new float the engine was surging.
Popped off the black plastic cap, unscrewed the jet, cleared the passages and voila....fixed!
Hopefully only one more question. When my Tecumseh flooded & locked up as I was trying to start, could I have pulled so hard as to bend valves or do damage to the cam. I almost went down. Is this a fix so expensive & not worth while? I have all the new carb parts & pin holes in the brass float led to all of this. it wont even sputter now with a shot of starting fluid. Thanks for all the help so far. It made taking the carb apart very easy. I maybe should have replaced the primer but was working ok before. From Steve not Connie.
It's possible the damage you speak of could have happened. Start with the basics first. Drain your oil and refill it with new oil. Fuel might have dumped into the crankcase. Pull the spark plug and see if you have compression, either with a gauge or by sealing the plug hole with your thumb and have someone pull the starter rope, being careful not to have your hand near the plug wire. Check for spark.
Let me know what you find. I will do a video this weekend on how to check these things and post it.
@@veteranssmallenginerepair5934 I was discouraged & walked away for awhile. Pretty sure the carb was fixed even though it wouldn't even sputter. I had plenty of spark & put a little more gas in it. Next morning gas had come out my spark plug hole again. Dumb thing but stood the mower vertical to get gas from the combustion chamber. Came back a little later & crankcase drained out this way, maybe thinned from gas. Pulled the head, valves seem to be good & cam action is right on. Does it seem normal the oil would empty out this way? Valve guides maybe? or a major problem? Thankfully I have another mower but really want this one working again. Might take you up & just get a new carb, the primer did seem weak. Thanks for all the advice! From Steve.
Possibly broke the flywheel key doubtful but check
@@pauldixon9626 Thanks, certainly will look into & does make sense. Flywheel has gotten rusty from being exposed.
Picked up a lawnmower a while back that was running rough. Opened up the carb and saw no needle seat at all so got a rebuild kit. Put the seat in and now the float won’t sit anywhere close to level. What could be the issue? I tried adjusting the medal tab as far as it could go, pushed the seat in all the way.
Some carbs do not have a seat like in the video. If your needle has what looks like a rubber tip then that is the seat seal. The seat area on this type of carb is usually made of brass and is slightly tapered at the bottom.
Omid what was the issue or is it still broken?
XxWALHALAxX MOZZA I just took the seat out and it’s been running just fine ever since
i have this very carberator on a few lawnmowers but for whatever reason it seems to be fuel starved still..brand new its not plugged up it runs perfectly if you spray carb cleaner into the filter i have about 5-6 lawnmowers like this with teh same problem in fact every briggs and stratton ive encountered has this problem..no-one seems to want to tell me what it is...once sprayed it starts up first pull and runs great then when idle for an hr its same probelm all over agian..its not a huge issue but im going to tackle it this next summer..i jsut started this as a hobby and so far done pretty good..hoping to get this small issue fixed then they are pretty much perect for use or sale.
that red tube no fuel comes out fo it when primed into the filter to start it so..idk wth is going on..the carb isnt adjustable
little update ive since solved all thsoe problems:)
@@sonnyc3826 well? What was the fix?
I have a flood-out to the combustion chamber on a Tecumseh lawn mower. I learned this engine has a brass seat for the float. Could it just be a dirt problem in the seat or will the small rubber gasket fit there? Does the emulsion tube have anything to do with this flooding?
If you have a brass seat (tapered) your float needle should have a rubber coating on the tip. It's very possible dirt or debris is trapped in the seat or it's corroded, allowing fuel to bypass. If your float is brass, it can be adjusted for proper fuel shut off. Carburetor types and their respective rebuild kits are very specific. Look up the kit for your carb part number and that kit will show if a rubber seat is used. The emulsion tube maintains the air fuel ratio, not fuel shut off.
@@veteranssmallenginerepair5934 I do see a very small brass seat but the needle has no rubber on it, I 've seen pics of what you are talking about. Could it be after 20 years the rubber has been eaten off by ethanol? I do use a 1/2 oz per gal. Sta-Bil year round. The E-tube even has the bottom O-ring knob gone. The carb has never been taken apart & has 5234 stamped on it. With 2 very bad O-rings, In this situation could gas slip from the float into the E-tube to run down with gravity to the combustion chamber where it pours from the spark plug hole.? But for sure will look for a needle with the rubber on it. Thanks you've been a lot of help! These Amazon carbs are way to cheap, are they from China?
Connie Hartz it might be worth you just getting the amazon carb if you can’t quite suss out where your problem is coming from
This from Steve Hartz. Not wanting to spend much more time or money on this I bought the cheap $15 carb from Amazon probably made in China. Emory clothed the rust off flywheel & seems to run like a top again. I do like a feature on this carb. What I thought was a drain from the bowl is actually a fuel mixture for high speed as it never idles. Thanks for all the advice.
99% you just have to blow everything out and when you start taking the harder parts off they get broken. Just clean the fuel intake and the nettle set and the bottom main jet
True!
I have one of these Tecumseh engines on a lawnmower it will start up and run untill it warms up then dies. Let it sit and the gas tank empties and fills up the crankcase over night. Is this lawnmower ready for scrap metal? I have never seen this!
Not, it is not scrap metal. Either the float is "sunk" meaning fuel has leaked into it causing it not to float, therefore not shutting the float valve, the float valve is not sealing and allowing fuel to bypass it or if the float is adjustable, then it out of adjustment. rebuild or replace your carb and that should fix it.
@@veteranssmallenginerepair5934 If possible, install a shut off valve
The silver cap under the primer bulb chamber, is what I'm missing. What is it called?
The red straw sticking out. Is that sopose to be leaking gad when I prime my pressure washer?
No, it is an air vent for the float bowl.
i have taken mine apart three times. only way to get it to run is by pressing the priming bulb. it will not run without pressing the bulb. i am at a loss on this
The idle circuit is not functioning. Not all carbs can be saved. I would consider a replacement.
in removing my float, there was a spring that no one else seems to have on the hinge pin. help! is this part necessary? It looks like it provides assisting tension assisting the float to rise. By the way, Semper Fi!
That's a new one on me. I've never seen a spring on the hinge pin. I could not find any info in the Tecumseh Carburetor Identification, Troubleshooting and Service manual I have. I will do some more research and get back to you.
Check this video from donyboy73. It should help with your spring questions. HOW-TO Install A Tecumeh Carburetor Float Spring ua-cam.com/video/R6XHXIDEhF8/v-deo.html
On newer carburetors they are noticeably in the new one maybe in some of the old ones not too sure about date they started putting those in but if you have a plastic float it's probably 2 assisted going to the down position my problem is it's overflowing no matter what I do
Harold Witham not sure what carb you have but is it possible the float on your carb could be placed upside down? I think on some Briggs you can at least put needle in wrong side, am just wondering if that’s your problem
Spring is a damper for rough service not needed in most cases but they're put on some units where there's a lot of vibration or uneven movement like on a motorcycle or watercraft things like that
😎✌
That's a new carb as well..
What is the red “ air breather tube”? Never seen before… is this something unique to snowblowers lol?
Just a vent that Tecumseh used.
@@veteranssmallenginerepair5934
Thank you.
Do you know if its left in place during installation?
like how you go into detail
Hello; How can I stop fuel constant leaking from red imulsion tube?
Sounds like the float is the issue. Stuck open, filled with gas or the needle valve is not sealing.
I have Similar issue with brand new carburetor
Where can I order a series 11 carburetor
Check ereplacementparts.com or discountonlineparts.com. You can also search google for parts using the make and model of the machine. Good luck!
ant kin to Loius Barbosa.. Dallas?
EBay or Amazon.
Dude, did I totally miss you removing the black plastic plug so the small brass screw behind it can be removed and cleaned, or did you?
You didn't miss it. I missed that segment during the edit. Good catch!
That jet must only be installed with the carb in operating position. A small ball resides in the tube it goes into and can be heard if you shake the carb. If you run the jet into it. Carb is toast. You cannot access this ball.
@@gordbaker896 first I've heard of this in several vids I've watched...
What's the purpose of the red plastic tube sticking out if the carb? Mine fell out and I can't get back in.
It's to all air for the primer bulb.
@@veteranssmallenginerepair5934 Will the carb surge without this tube? I installed a new carb and have a surge.
I just went to amazon and bought a brand new (already put together) carburetor for 10 bucks. DONE
Throw-away generation. But what can you say...
Just throw the whole mower away and replace for $300, I like buying dead mowers for £10-20 clean carb and sell for £100-£300
🤷 U could've rebuilt it for $4. 🤔 Could've cleaned it for 25 cents worth of carb cleaner (even less if u only used compressed air and a little twist wire from a loaf of bread).
Haha if this dude had the proper tools for the disassembly the playtime of the video would be at least a few minutes shorter.
Consumerism
I got a repair needle valve kit and the little clip for the needle valve won't snap on and then I installed the new seal in the carb base making sure it was fully seated and install the brass float with the pin on the needle and now it's a long way from being parallel to the base of the carb. Today this lawnmower has ended up in the junk pile. What a piece of garbage a Tecumseh carb is! Don't waste your time on these carbs!
I have gotten 20 years of good service from my cheap Wal-Mart Tecumseh mower. I can think of 3 Briggs-Stratton mowers with far less service I gave away at garage sales & people seemed eager to get them. Mines been idle for a month now waiting for the right parts. This is it though, have a new Lawn Boy with a Kohler but like the Tecumseh so much better for the ditch. I'll be giving up too.