E-Mu Ultra sampler PSU replacement
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- Опубліковано 21 кві 2015
- Replacing a broken PSU in an E5000 sampler.
Mine was the smaller of the 2 varieties of E-Mu PSU's (43 vs. 65 watts). This is sufficient for the basic machine but add-ons can put extra strain on it. I used an RFX card for a couple of years without realising the dangers. The PSU broke when I tried to upgrade the fan with a quieter one. Don't know if the few extra mA tipped it over the edge, or if it was just coincidence. Either way, this 60 watt replacement seems to be a near-enough 'drop-in' replacement.
Thanks to Raj on / emueivmachines for researching PSU and uploading instructions.
As at 15-Apr-2015:-
Total cost (to UK): GBP 56.40
Model: SDS60UT05 PSU, OPEN FRAME, 60W, 3 OUTPUT
Website: uk.farnell.com/xp-power/sds60u... - Наука та технологія
Thank you everyone involved in the research for this E-mu 'cure'. Very much appreciated. My EIV Classic (silent fan, two internal SCSI CF drives, new OLED screen) is back online :)
+Lux Voltaire that's good news so thanks for the feedback. Let the guys know on the EMU IV facebook group.
Which psu did you source ?
Thanks for the upload. I have been pondering an accopian gold box linear as an external PSU ? Do you think this would be ok I much prefer the sound of linear power supplies and external should help with noise etc ? What do you think ?
dolovfm Thanks for the comment; afaik the issues may be:
Voltage drop on the cables - the thicker & shorter the better, and use the 'sense' inputs if your PSU has them.
RF hash from the EMU out through the cables causing interference on other gear - may need ferrite cores around all the wires.
Could try asking on the Samplers On Acid forum samplersonacid.com/forum/index.php and/or the EMU IV Facebook group facebook.com/groups/EMUEIVMachines
Good luck with the project.
A PC Psu not work for this? 5v/14A, +12v/9A, -12v/0,5A?
+Riva Lima I think the original PSU spec was +5Vdc/3A, +12Vdc/2A, -12Vdc/0.3A, so you'd think a PC PSU would be ok - if it physically fits inside the EMU, but haven't heard of anyone who's done it.
hey, greate video and great info! do you know if this psu works on emu esynth classic keyboard?
Thanks +Daeron NT. The forum samplersonacid.com/ or facebook group facebook.com/groups/EMUEIVMachines/ may be able to help. Good luck.
Thanks Phil! i love my emus but since they have many decades old, the problmes of psu start to appear! by the way thanks for share your videos, very useful info!
I had an E5000 die on me with a HD and RFX installed. Got a new one a couple of months ago. The build was slightly different than the older E5000. I put the RFX32 in but an concerned even though it's a later model it might die. Do you know when they changed the build of the E5000's for use with the RFX?
Don't know the dates, but to be absolutely sure I would check the label on the PSU. The power rating for the old ones was 43 watts, the newer ones 65 watts. The label is stuck on the large capacitor and you *may* be able to see it through the holes in the PSU cover, but if not, it's not too difficult to remove as it's only one screw as shown in the video. A mirror and torch may help :)
Thanks for that. I'll check it out. :D
Update. All sorted. New PSU in the Ultra now. Thanks for this vid :)
It looked like that the earth pads on the original PSU were covered by the insulation card and not touching the chassis when you first removed it.
@Isolde & Isobelle There are 2 cutouts in the insulation card. You can just see them at approx 1:12 when the card drops down into the chassis - you have to be quick to spot it, or just pause it :) It's a bit clearer at 2:34 where I refit it.
Hi Phil. It looks like that the pads are at the top and the cutouts to the bottom @ 1:13. Am I mistaken?
@@isoldeisobelle552 Yes the cutout corners are nearest the chassis. It's much clearer at 2:29. The PSU board has 4 fixing holes but they may not all have earthed metal pads around them, depending on which PSU you get. If there are pads around all 4 holes, you can fit the insulation card any way round. If there are pads around only 1 or 2 holes, then orientate the card so the cutouts line up with these. That way, there will be a good earth connection from the PSU board to the chassis when it's screwed in.
@@philtipping Thank you for the reply. I am the ''David'' that you mention in the end credits. I have the Farnell PSU installed for some years now and all is working fine. I admit that my eyesight (.. and grey matter.) is a bit worse for wear after all this time. It looks to me that the earth pads are at the top of the original PSU and the cutouts are to the bottom, when you first remove the PSU.
@@isoldeisobelle552 Ahh I see. I think the card flipped over as it fell - I'm pretty sure they were lined up correctly. If anyone is concerned when fitting a new one, they can always cut another 2 cutouts in the card so there's no worries about which way round it goes. Didn't realise you were 'the' David, after all these years! I have a few EMUs so it wasn't a show-stopper when this one broke. It had been out of action for some time until I saw or read about your exploits, and that gave me the push to finally get it fixed. Nice to hear people still using these old machines :)
Do you think that the Farnell PSU gives enough strain for a internal SCSI drive + a SCSI2SD card reader instead of the floppy disk ?
+Linge Records Most PSU problems were due to the original 43 watt one, so even though this Farnell one is 60 watt and not 65, I think it would be good enough. You're saving a bit of power by removing the floppy drive, and the SCSI2SD reader will need very little, so the only 'power hungry' addition is the single hard drive. The RFX card also needed a lot of power so was another reason for upgrading.
@@philtipping Thanks !
eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/826-LPT62 and do you think this one (cheaper for me in France) would be ok ? seems more powerful
@@lingerecords Comparing the 2 specs:
Farnell SDS60UT05 is 5V 6A, 12V 3A, -12V 800mA, total 60W (just checked website and it's 63W??)
Mouser 826-LPT62 is 5V 7A, 12V 3A, -12V 700mA, total 60W
They *are* very close but not sure if the reduced current for the -12V rail is ok. Maybe best to double-check on the Emu forum samplersonacid.com or the Facebook group facebook.com/groups/Emulator4UserGroup - Good luck.
@@philtipping thanks so much. I found the Mouser one on gearslutz
www.gearslutz.com/board/electronic-music-instruments-and-electronic-music-production/974972-repair-emu-e4xt-psu-power-supply.html
But I don,'t know ...
The other thing I can't really understand : (maybe because I have to be into the action to understand) I'm not sure to understand what you're saying about bottom and top pins. Bottom ? Top ?
And my main question is How to avoid death LOL : I don't understand "the bottom pin is connected to the chassis. If you get it wrong ..." can you explain me how ? is it just that I shouldn"t try to force something. I mean, How one can be 100 pcent sure of that and double check ?
Thanks again, you rule ... thanks so much for your video and answers !
@@lingerecords That's a good link as it contains the spec for the original power supply:
Output: +5Vdc/3A, +12Vdc/2A, -12Vdc/0.3A
So the original -12V only needs 0.3A (i.e. 300mA)... which means your Mouser PSU will be fine as it can supply 0.7A (700mA). Hard discs only use +5V or +12V so there's no change to the -12V requirements.
Re. the bottom & top pins - see 1m44s in the video. This shows the original PSU had 2 pins for the mains input so the EMU uses a 2-pin plug for these. The replacement from Farnell has 3 pins, so you have 2 possible positions for plugging the 2-pin plug onto the pins - pins 1 & 2 or pins 2 & 3. The plug will fit either position so you are responsible for getting it right. The plug can also be turned round so the live & neutral are reversed. Only one of these combinations is correct - anything else may blow a fuse (at best) or electrocute/kill you (at worst), so I was trying to explain which is correct. If you have the EMU laid flat in its normal operating position and the PSU is fitted as in the video, the power supply input pins form a vertical row. The 'top' pin is the one nearest the top of the chassis, and vice-versa. The 2-pin plug from the EMU must go to the top 2 pins for the Farnell PSU. If your Mouser PSU also has 3 input pins then you need to do the same checks - they *may* not be wired the same as the Farnell.
The safest way to check is to use a continuity meter like I used - this makes a beep sound when the circuit is completed. So to check which pin of the 3 goes to 'earth', connect the meter to the chassis and each pin in turn to see which pin beeps. This earth pin must *not* be connected to the 2-pin plug, so with the Farnell PSU, the plug needs to go to the top 2 pins. You also need to connect the plug the correct way round so you don't reverse live & neutral. You can identify the live pin if the PSU has a fuse on the board - this will be connected to the live pin, so you can either use a continuity meter to see which one is which, or just look closely at the tracks on the back of the board.
Hope this helps. Please ask if you're not absolutely sure as these are dangerous voltages to get wrong if you're not sure what you're doing. You can use my email address if you like (go to my www.philizound.co.uk website and my email address is at the bottom of the page) - it's a bit easier than using UA-cam comments.
where i can buy one? my psu is dead :(
+Riva Lima - Model: SDS60UT05 PSU, OPEN FRAME, 60W, 3 OUTPUT
Website: uk.farnell.com/xp-power/sds60ut05/psu-open-frame-60w-3-output/dp/1109921.
thank you!
Hello Phil, I know this comment comes some time down the road; QUESTION: would you know whether new PSU Output being 'Fixed' or 'Adjustable' is significant?There is quite a price gap between both models on Farnell. A pop noise occured just now and no power on (no smell)! I suspect my 44w PSU for the e4k has just died and I'm doing my research. Firstly, I'm awaiting on a new fuse for the original PSU and I'll see what happens from there. Recently, I've replaced the LCD with an LED backlit LCD, replaced internal SCSI HD with ZuluSCSI (which refused to run on SCSI BUS power and required the use of the SCSI 4 pin power lead), updated with 128meg ram and all was well. However, I was just experimenting with an ASCII keyboard input today and perhaps that tipped the old PSU over the edge... kind regards, Al.
@TheAdvancedMusic Hi Al, have just had a quick look at the link
uk.farnell.com/xp-power/sds60ut05/psu-open-frame-60w-3-output/dp/1109921
and it's about 94 GBP... quite a jump up from 56 GBP in 2015!
I don't remember seeing the fixed/adjustable option before, but if you find that filling in the website fields manually gives you a cheaper option, I can't see there would be any problem.
The original PSU spec is: +5Vdc/3A, +12Vdc/2A, -12Vdc/0.3A so as long as you make sure the voltages match and the currents equal or exceed these, it should be ok. If you do end up getting one, make sure you heed the warnings in the video re. live & neutral pins.
I doubt if the keyboard tipped it over the edge as you've already saved some power by replacing the disc drive with a solid state version... but the PSU may have already been stressed when it was driving the disc, and if it's an original one, it's going to be pretty old by now so maybe it's just had its day.
Good luck though; the fuse may be all it needs, but if you have to replace it, keep us posted.
@@philtipping Thanks for your detailed reply. I replaced the fuse, but nothing doing. It's worth noting for the record that the specs on my e4k PSU are: +5v/4A, 12v/1.5A, -12v 0.5A (Brand: Freedom Power). I'll continue to source for a comparative PSU, but the Farnell does seem like the most convenient bet.