Food Plot Cultipacker Roller - Built With Culvert Pipe
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2020
- Using a 5' piece of 12" (inside diameter) dual walled culvert pipe, nine 60# bags of sack-crete and some scrap metal parts, I built this food plot roller. It's small enough to pull with my 4-wheeler but not too big to haul on a utility trailer. It's heavy and it packs!
See how it's held up with my two-year review video of it in the link below:
• 2-Year Review of DIY F... - Навчання та стиль
Corrections: @ 0:25 - the Black Culvert Pipe is 12-inches (Inside Diameter). @ 5:32 - the longer, Inside Roller Pipe is 1- 3/4 inches (Outside Diameter)
Well done. Love the simple and functional design.
Wow I thought about making this , glad to see someone actually did it. Good job.
Just saw the 2 year review had to go back and catch the build! Nice job!
Thanks! It was fun piecing it together with what I had laying around.
Nicely done. 👍
Really great build
Thank you Steve!
very nice, great work
I’ve been wanting to build one of these, thanks for the ideas and sharing.
You're welcome. Good luck with your build!
Great video. If you don't have enough cement mix in the container/tube, I saw another youtuber put some big chunk of rocks, bricks, what ever will fit in the cement mix to give it some volume.
I copied your design and used a 4 foot piece of 15inch culvert and ended up using 10 bags of Quikrete. I'm glad I bought a few extra bags. It works great though! Thanks for the video.
I don't know why I noted the outside diameter of the culvert pipe (15") in the beginning of the video. It's a 12" inside diameter culvert pipe - which is surely the standard way to size a culvert. That's my mistake. I placed a pinned comment today to clarify this. I hope your roller works as well as mine does! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great work! I was hoping you had painted it :)
Nice, thanks for this video
Nice job. I’d slap some grease on the outside of the inner shaft. Nice build man.
Nice!
An alternative to using all concrete, put a shovel of two of concrete in the bottom, almost fill the rest with just sand and finish it off with more concrete.
I wouldn't recommend doing that with a poly culvert pipe. It would likely allow the pipe to flex in the middle. They are strong, but not that strong. If you use a metal culvert and fill it that way, that would probably work just fine though. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Would have been nice to see it in action!
Genius
Great instructional video. I'm curious to know how this does with cultipacking and rolling residue.
If the ground is dry, it works great. If the ground is wet, the grooves will fill up but the horizontal bar is close to the roller so it scrapes off excessive build up. It still packs that way but you don't get the grooves left behind in the soil. I have the luxury of not being hours away from my food plots, so I can wait for soil conditions to be dry. Also, my plan was to try to go to no-till so it will be mostly used to roll the buckwheat or rye cover crops.
@@UncleBucks great-- thanks for the information. I wonder about reducing the weight a bit, perhaps by using a smaller diameter pipe. I'm working on converting 4 acres of lawn to mixed forage pasture, and thinking mostly about using something like this to get good seed contact with the soil after broadcast seeding into standing grass (rather than forking out a bunch of money for a drill). No tractor as of yet, too -- working with a JD riding mower =/
@@benharris4543 I highly recommend going with a smaller pipe. I've since made several others with 10" single walled culvert pipe. That's about perfect for pulling with a 4 wheeler or lawn tractor. Single wall culverts are more difficult to keep straight when filling with concrete, but the ribs don't squish in over time like they do in a double wall one, as they are hollow.
@@UncleBucks One thought I've had is to get a metal barrel with a screw-on cap at the top and weld some rebar (or something) to it for crimpers. The barrel could be filled with water for precise weight management of the roller/crimper.
nice
Kool.
Brett, really nice build. Will check out your food plot vids as well. New Subscriber to show support. 👍🏽🙂.
I appreciate that. Thanks!!
Do you think that would work for packing XC ski trails or would it be too heavy to tow through snow?
A 10" or 12" one would be a good size for that but I really think the grooves would pack up with snow, so you'd have to devise and install some sort of groove cleaners onto it.
How long did you let the concrete set before you moved it? How long did the double wall last? Very nice job.
I let it set up for a couple days before tipping it over to put it all together. Now that I've used it for two seasons, much of the double wall has compressed/flattened, but it still performs well. A single wall would be more ideal but they are tough to keep straight when filling with concrete, as they are less rigid. Appreciate your kind words.
how do you stop the inner pipe from pulling away from one of the dock fitting?
Both of the dock post brackets have a set screw that has been tightened so the inner pipe cannot work it's way out. Hope that answers your question....
You started with a 1 3/4inch O.D. inner pipe and ended with 1 1/2 . Did u switch because dock post supports would only except inch and a half?
It is a 1 3/4" O.D. inner pipe. When I said 1 1/2", it was in error. I guess I didn't catch that when we were editing the video.
👍
Love it. It’s on my list to build. What would you do differently? I’m thinking I will just fill mine with gravel, sand crusher run or whatever I can round up for free to have $0 in mine. Will it work?
I plan to do a 3 year review video real soon. The ribs are collapsing but it still works. I've since built several with single wall Culvert pipe. The ribs stay as they are, but those are a little tougher to line up straight when filling. Overall, single wall is better than dual wall culvert for this. I think you will have trouble if this is not solid concrete inside. You have to have concrete on the ends to keep the pipe centered. Sack Crete is still fairly cheap, like $4 a bag. I'd highly recommend going with that. I wouldn't change much if I were to built it again. I add a squirt of oil in the ends before I use it. It's way quieter that way and probably extends the life of the center pipe by many years. It was worth the time to make one of these. I use it often. Thanks for commenting & good luck with your build!
@@UncleBucks Thanks for the reply. Good to know. I may go against your advise and build it with what I have because my channel is more about that.(Doing what you can, when you can, with what you've got.) I'd rather do a free fail as a costly success. ;-) I agree 100% you are right and if I get around to building it and making a video, I will give your advice as the better way to go.
Hey man sorry I keep blowing up your comments lol how long did you make the pipe that connects to your hitch? SO far I have the crossbeam is 62 1/2" long, the two diagonal supports are 48" long, and the axels/ axel buffer lengths I have as well (you could use a PVC pipe as the axel buffer instead of another steel pipe...the only thing I'm missing is the length of the main beam. THANKS!!
No worries Chris. It is 52" long.
You can use a 2x4 frame
Sure
How much do you think it weighs?
It weighs about 500 lbs.
Is the 15" the i.d. or the o.d.?
15" OD, 12" ID
Any idea what the finished weight is?
Right around 500 pounds