I just wanted to say thanks for your video. I followed your advice including using the guide and was able to roll some conic sections for a pan mixer I am repairing today, that was in 2mm steel but it worked great. A couple of people were sure I would need a cone roller so it was nice to prove them wrong.
Great vid Bill I learned a lot for 65 years old just from what you’ve shared I’m subscribed so I can learn more thank you so much You explain so well Larry
Thank you, Great video. I just bought the cheapest roller I could find. 24inch. I'm trying to make cones, 5 in one end 13 at the big end 15inches long 16 gauge aluminum.
Hey Bill! I've had a brake with a stop in it for 15 years or so, dang almost never use! but now learned a good use for it! did many a square to round transitions that nugget of knowledge would have come in handy many times! Wish you had done the slip roll stretch about 2001 cause it would have shown everyone how much the so call metalshaping "gawds" didn't know ! Take care! tt
Hey Bill thanks, been doing sheet metal work for along time and you just taught me a few things. Thanks a ton, like you channel. Subbed. Take care Dave
Very well done, and informative. Thanks. You have a clean enough shop to mount your tripod on a dolly and be able to glide the camera around like a studio. NEVER have that chance in mine! LOL
A slight jump in topic here, but is it possible using a slip roll like this to shape a 3" wide by 22" length of 1/4" thick aluminum to ~ 14" diameter cylinder/ring? (Emphasis on the large 1/4" thickness plus the tight 14" radius.) If not, an alternative scenario --though requiring access to certain additional equipment here, obviously-- heating the 1/4" thick aluminum piece to a some higher uniform temperature just before rolling it, perhaps??? Thx.
Hi! Thank you so much for your help. How do you avoid flat ends on the cone similar to the rectangular pieces you had? I have seen people bending only half the cone at a time starting from the middle section, do you think that is an effective method?
If you were going to employ the tool (guide) that I showed, and rolled from the center out, or even rolled from both ends, you would have to readjust both ends of the rolls with every pass. It would be very time consuming and tedious. You would have to roll on the left and the right ends of the rollers. If you rolled from the center out, unless you hit the center just right, you would end up with either a hump or a flat in the center of your piece. I find that just putting the piece in until it just pinches and holds in place and then pushing it up by hand works as well and anything. It does require some experience to get it just right.
Can a slip roll create a "U" shape? I have some perforated metal about 12 in wide that I want to form like this. The bottom of the U would be about 3 or 4 in wide (diam.), and the sides would extend straight up about 6 or 7 in. The U would be 12 in long, so it's shaped like a tunnel. Is it possible to do this with reasonable precision on a slip roll?
Yep, I usually roll from the center of the U out to one leg and then turn the piece around and then roll toward the other leg. that way the piece is symmetric and without the flat spot that you would get on one leg if you tried to do it all from one direction.
Thanks Bill, that's very helpful. One other thing... How important is it to have a third roller? Most of the 12" rolls I'm looking at online appear to have angled arms or an adjustable bar behind the front rollers instead. This is light-duty work, but I hate junk tools. Do you think any of the current models in the sub-$250 range are worth owning? Thanks!
Great Video Bill. I echo the appreciation of so many other commenters. I am a notoriously cheap guy and have been thinking to buy odd length copper piping below scrap pricing, anneal it cut it open and then reduce the thickness using a heavy duty pexto roller. As you likely know a 1.5" diameter schedule K copper pipe has a 0.072" wall thickness and a roughly 3.25" width when flattened. If I can reduce this to a 20oz copper equivalent of 0.027" I should end up with something close to 4" in width. Am I dreaming or is it worth a shot in your opinion. Where I am in Canada 20oz copper sheets are around $28 a square foot currently.
Even if it was still red hot, (not just annealed) I don't think you could put enough pressure on it to really increase it's square area with slip rolls.. The rollers would flex too much, and since they would arc so that the edges would be getting the most pressure, it would only stretch in the lengthwise direction, if it stretched at all. Not width wise, as you might first think. You would be much better off using an English Wheel and wheeling it out the the desired square area and then washing over it with a flat wheel (no compound arc), after a final annealing.
At 18:00 when you started trying to get compound curve on that square sheet... had you fed it in from the corners to roll it diagonally also wouldn't ithave better effect because you'd be curving it on 4 axis instead of only 2... or am I missing something and there's a reason you didn't do this?
lol morlol It does make it easier to feed in if you start on the corners but what happens is, that since there is less material to bend, the corners get (bend) tighter and then you have to push them back to get them into the rollers again. Also the diagonal dimension is longer than straight across the sheet. So you can put a bigger piece of material in if you go square to the rollers. However your way will work. There's no right or wrong on this one. So do what works for you.
***** ah... all that makes sense... you're keeping the load uniform. Thanks very much. I've never used anything like this before but I'd like to build myself a slip roll I can use. Thanks.
Ok i originally came to the video for the slip roll but became way more interested in that anvil vice thing you started working on. Where did you get it and what is it called daddy got to get one of those.
+motherchucka1 ... I thought I had answered this but I don't see the answer here...?? so.... It is a Stewart Handy Worker.. Patented in 1915.. They were also made in Australia under a different name, which I can't remember right now... here's a link to a yahoo search... lot's of info about them on the web.. search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=stewart+handy+worker&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-004
Great Video! But why would you demonstrate working with these potential knife blades without the necessary safety gear of at least a pair of mechanic's gloves. Getting blood off the floor is easy, but getting back into a body that's still gushing it is hard. Thanks! JD
JD, I've been working with metal all my life... Made my first Aluminum TIG Weld when I was 9 years old and I will be 62 in a couple months.... I have never been able to work with gloves on..(Pf course I didn't have any when I was young..!!..) After 51 years you learn how to handle the metal... and I can grip it much more securely with bare hands than I can with gloves on... So I don't let it slip near as often this way as I do with gloves on.. For me having gloves makes me feel like I have ten thumbs.. It's awkward as hell..And this way I feel the metal when it is yielding much easier.. Glad you liked the Video...!!
***** I've seen gloves hurt more people than help. It's wearing baggy clothing around every finger you have. Gloves are for keeping hands warm and hands soft and vulnerable.
The voice of experience. Thanks!
I just wanted to say thanks for your video. I followed your advice including using the guide and was able to roll some conic sections for a pan mixer I am repairing today, that was in 2mm steel but it worked great. A couple of people were sure I would need a cone roller so it was nice to prove them wrong.
Cool.. Glad I could help..
Great vid Bill I learned a lot for 65 years old just from what you’ve shared I’m subscribed so I can learn more thank you so much You explain so well Larry
Great video, thank you. You sound like one of my old engineering professors explaining plastic strain lol thanks again
Great video, Thank you for taking the time to show all of this, I really learned a lot from it. Thanks again and great job!!!
Anyone can be a hero with editing. I like your one take style, that's how i do it.
Thanks. You are the only one with hand slip rolls.Thats what I have in my shop, and needed to roll cones
Thank you Bill!!! You kick ass!!!
Thanks for all the great tips. I learned a lot in a short period of time.
Thanks very much. Greatly appreciate the sharing of knowledge!
Thank you, Great video. I just bought the cheapest roller I could find. 24inch. I'm trying to make cones, 5 in one end 13 at the big end 15inches long 16 gauge aluminum.
MAN YOUR A GREAT TEACHER,THANKS FOR YOUR TIME
Hey Bill! I've had a brake with a stop in it for 15 years or so, dang almost never use! but now learned a good use for it! did many a square to round transitions that nugget of knowledge would have come in handy many times! Wish you had done the slip roll stretch about 2001 cause it would have shown everyone how much the so call metalshaping "gawds" didn't know ! Take care! tt
Awesome video!!! Thank you for showing me some tricks!
Super informative. Great job. Keep me coming.
I learned allot watching this, THANK YOU!
Hey Bill thanks, been doing sheet metal work for along time and you just taught me a few things. Thanks a ton, like you channel. Subbed.
Take care Dave
Thanks for spending your time to make this video. Cool video.
Thank you for an excellent video.
Very well done, and informative. Thanks.
You have a clean enough shop to mount your tripod on a dolly and be able to glide the camera around like a studio. NEVER have that chance in mine! LOL
Great tutorial!
Very nice video, thanks for posting! I will definitely put a lot of these tips to use.
Clear explanation and visual learned some great tricks.
Thanks for all the tips very useful I'm planning to buy a roller for making cones, now I have a idea of how to use it
thank you so much! i've been looking for a video to teach me how to roll a cone for eons!
Wonderful presentation and great speaking voice, thank you!
Thank you for sharing.
Very informative video, learned some great tricks, keep up the good work!
Always a pleasure to watch
WOW, great information, Thank You
Great video and very informative, Helped me with a question n my assignment, Thankyou Bill.
Really useful information, Thankyou...
Great Job, I learned a lot. Tom
Great video, thanks!
wow that was very useful! thanks for sharing!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great demo. I must say that I enjoyed it. Well demonstrated. You did such a good job I just had to subscribe. Thanks for this and have a great day.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge sir.
Fantastic video! You are a true origami metal master. Thank you!
Very easy explanation for the beginners like my self, that I don't speak English, not much,, excellent work buddy
VERY INFORMATIVE , THANK YOU
Thank you......... great stuff
Very cool!
Thanks Bill. 😊
Great video. But please get rid of the florescent light noise. Get LEDs lights their cheap
A slight jump in topic here, but is it possible using a slip roll like this to shape a 3" wide by 22" length of 1/4" thick aluminum to ~ 14" diameter cylinder/ring? (Emphasis on the large 1/4" thickness plus the tight 14" radius.) If not, an alternative scenario --though requiring access to certain additional equipment here, obviously-- heating the 1/4" thick aluminum piece to a some higher uniform temperature just before rolling it, perhaps??? Thx.
like the video these tip are very good to know, i know there was a way with these roll if you know what you are doing. thanks. colin uk.
Always like a sponge when I watch your videos.
Thanks!
thank you.
Hi! Thank you so much for your help. How do you avoid flat ends on the cone similar to the rectangular pieces you had? I have seen people bending only half the cone at a time starting from the middle section, do you think that is an effective method?
If you were going to employ the tool (guide) that I showed, and rolled from the center out, or even rolled from both ends, you would have to readjust both ends of the rolls with every pass. It would be very time consuming and tedious. You would have to roll on the left and the right ends of the rollers. If you rolled from the center out, unless you hit the center just right, you would end up with either a hump or a flat in the center of your piece. I find that just putting the piece in until it just pinches and holds in place and then pushing it up by hand works as well and anything. It does require some experience to get it just right.
Can a slip roll create a "U" shape? I have some perforated metal about 12 in wide that I want to form like this. The bottom of the U would be about 3 or 4 in wide (diam.), and the sides would extend straight up about 6 or 7 in. The U would be 12 in long, so it's shaped like a tunnel. Is it possible to do this with reasonable precision on a slip roll?
Yep, I usually roll from the center of the U out to one leg and then turn the piece around and then roll toward the other leg. that way the piece is symmetric and without the flat spot that you would get on one leg if you tried to do it all from one direction.
Thanks Bill, that's very helpful. One other thing... How important is it to have a third roller? Most of the 12" rolls I'm looking at online appear to have angled arms or an adjustable bar behind the front rollers instead. This is light-duty work, but I hate junk tools. Do you think any of the current models in the sub-$250 range are worth owning? Thanks!
Great Video Bill. I echo the appreciation of so many other commenters. I am a notoriously cheap guy and have been thinking to buy odd length copper piping below scrap pricing, anneal it cut it open and then reduce the thickness using a heavy duty pexto roller. As you likely know a 1.5" diameter schedule K copper pipe has a 0.072" wall thickness and a roughly 3.25" width when flattened. If I can reduce this to a 20oz copper equivalent of 0.027" I should end up with something close to 4" in width. Am I dreaming or is it worth a shot in your opinion. Where I am in Canada 20oz copper sheets are around $28 a square foot currently.
Even if it was still red hot, (not just annealed) I don't think you could put enough pressure on it to really increase it's square area with slip rolls.. The rollers would flex too much, and since they would arc so that the edges would be getting the most pressure, it would only stretch in the lengthwise direction, if it stretched at all. Not width wise, as you might first think. You would be much better off using an English Wheel and wheeling it out the the desired square area and then washing over it with a flat wheel (no compound arc), after a final annealing.
@@billsmetal Great suggestion Bill Thanks!
thank you
At 18:00 when you started trying to get compound curve on that square sheet... had you fed it in from the corners to roll it diagonally also wouldn't ithave better effect because you'd be curving it on 4 axis instead of only 2... or am I missing something and there's a reason you didn't do this?
lol morlol It does make it easier to feed in if you start on the corners but what happens is, that since there is less material to bend, the corners get (bend) tighter and then you have to push them back to get them into the rollers again. Also the diagonal dimension is longer than straight across the sheet. So you can put a bigger piece of material in if you go square to the rollers. However your way will work. There's no right or wrong on this one. So do what works for you.
***** ah... all that makes sense... you're keeping the load uniform. Thanks very much. I've never used anything like this before but I'd like to build myself a slip roll I can use. Thanks.
thanks bill
Feed metal from bending role side
Ok i originally came to the video for the slip roll but became way more interested in that anvil vice thing you started working on. Where did you get it and what is it called daddy got to get one of those.
+motherchucka1 ... I thought I had answered this but I don't see the answer here...?? so....
It is a Stewart Handy Worker.. Patented in 1915.. They were also made in Australia under a different name, which I can't remember right now... here's a link to a yahoo search... lot's of info about them on the web.. search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=stewart+handy+worker&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-004
+billsmetal. you did months ago weird why its not there. any way thanks again and keep up the good work
If you back roll it no flat
Bottler. Thank You, muchly...!
Great Video! But why would you demonstrate working with these potential knife blades without the necessary safety gear of at least a pair of mechanic's gloves. Getting blood off the floor is easy, but getting back into a body that's still gushing it is hard. Thanks! JD
JD, I've been working with metal all my life... Made my first Aluminum TIG Weld when I was 9 years old and I will be 62 in a couple months.... I have never been able to work with gloves on..(Pf course I didn't have any when I was young..!!..) After 51 years you learn how to handle the metal... and I can grip it much more securely with bare hands than I can with gloves on... So I don't let it slip near as often this way as I do with gloves on.. For me having gloves makes me feel like I have ten thumbs.. It's awkward as hell..And this way I feel the metal when it is yielding much easier.. Glad you liked the Video...!!
*****
I've seen gloves hurt more people than help. It's wearing baggy clothing around every finger you have. Gloves are for keeping hands warm and hands soft and vulnerable.
+billsmetal Totally agree on the no gloves.
+JD Wisdom Gloves should never be worn around machinery. They are an extreme safety hazard.