Your explanation was very informative and the info on the steel differences helped me understand the added energy when working on railway track. I WISH I had kept the short length I gave away. Thanks.
They've become even more expensive in the years since this video was made. A good, properly constructed, new anvil of around 275 pounds, here in the USA, usually sells for around two grand.
Just picked up a 18 in by 10 inch 2 inch thick piece of Steel today at a scrapyard I gave the guy 40 bucks for it. Slapped it on top of a maple stump making a forge out of a small wood stove. Been wanting to do this for decades now I've waited till I'm all full of arthritis and s*** but I'm still doing it. very informative video
HA HA. Thanks Jeff. Im an old oft hand, thats oil field trash, and Ive had a couple smithy friends. They always seem so soft spoken and polite. What a contrast to my fellow roughnecks lol. Great video bro.
Hi, Over all, the info was good but I would like to say a couple things. I have been blacksmithing for over 30 years, I am an instructor for CBA California Blacksmith Assoc. Please do not try to cut a chunk of RR track to look like an anvil. The result will be on a par with the ASO (Anvil Shaped Object) that is cast iron. There is way too much spring as the web is too thin. If you must use a RR track, stand it on end like a fence post, now you will have a solid mass of steel under the hammer blows. Yes the target area is small but you only need enough for the hammer face. In this position, you will get a rebound to the hammer and you will be much more effective in your blows. A solid block of steel that weighs 75 to 150 pounds will make a VERY good starting anvil. Look for a section of round stock 4 to 6 inches in diameter and again set it like a fence post. Also, a cut piece of plate 3 or so inches thick and 12 inches X 12 inches works well when striking on the 3 inch side with the mass under the hammer, not flat to get a big surface. In anvils, more is better. You need mass under the hammer. A block of steel, smoothed by a grinder with a rounded end at one end will be a better anvil than nearly all smiths in history has had up until the addition of hard plate to the face. You can not add a section of high carbon steel to a block by welding with an arc welder. Even if you make a good, solid weld, there will be a huge un-welded section in the center, this will spring and flex, sucking the energy from your hammer blows, wasting your energy. It is better to just start with a good block of steel, preferably 100 to 120 pounds, grind smooth and don't miss your work with the hammer. If you do, smooth the face with your grinder. Every mark in the face of your anvil or your hammer will transfer to your work like a stamp and it will make cleanup of your work all that much harder.
Wayne Paris The idea of standing up a RR track on end like a fence post is stupid. An RR track is obviously going to make a smaller anvil and will be used for smaller things. RR track is completely legitimate as the small anvil it produces.
@@kcb5336 You have it backwards, more mass under the hammer and more stable is always better regardless of the size of the project. The mass under the hammer when the track is on end is much more stable and the greater mass will allow more metal to be moved. On it's side, there is no mass under the hammer and the web acts like a spring moving side to side and you get the double whammy of no mas and a non solid surface. On its side is worse for both smaller things and bigger things, while on end you can do both better. The size of the striking surface does not matter as the only work getting done is under the hammer so as long as the anvil is big enough for the face of the hammer it is much more effective in moving metal.
wayne parris I understand what you’re saying and I’ll agree you’re technically correct. But we’re talking a 50-60lb RR track anvil compared to a 300lb “real” anvil. What do you expect the size of the project to be? I would expect the project will be in proportion to the anvil itself. That’s all.
@@kcb5336 No, you are not understanding. I am talking about a 60 pound track and a 60 pound track. Mounted vertical (like a fence post which you said is stupid) it has much more mass under the hammer and is much more stable, more mass and more stable is better. Better yet, avoid the whole track thing and just buy 50 to 100 pounds of scrap steel in a block form. I never said anything about a "real" anvil. A block of scrap mild steel about 10 inches x 12 inches x 3 1/2 inches thick is about 100 pounds. Or 2 feet of 3 inch dia round bar or 2 feet of 3 x 4 rectangle bar etc. It can be bought for roughly fifty cents a pound depending on where you are. Mount it so it is 12 inches high, and 10 x 3 1/2 across the face. You now have what has been known for centuries as a block anvil. Made from better steel than was ever available in the past.
I have been wanting to learn blacksmithing so I found a 3' section of railroad track fastened it to a log very close to the same width little overhang attached it with railroad spikes and it has worked very well the past 3yrs, I built my forge the same way out of an old gas water heater center tank cut length wise in the middle and 55 gal oil drum as the stand, all still better then you can buy at a store, I found a 3" inch x 1'x1' plate steel that I will temper in camp fire and water, rout out the top of a tamarack log counter sink it in that is my next anvil I am working on... thanks for the share ...
To be a bit scientific and specific for those who wonder, it is not only brute force that shapes the metal, the shock-waves "liquefies" it to a degree, this is how these waves reflected from steel (ringing) helps the process - you get many hits inside of one hammerblow and less loss of energy (absorption)
It's true that old tools weren't always better made, but on the other hand, something that has been around for a hundred or more years and I'd still in working condition was probably made pretty well, or at least made to be sturdy.
@MrJsowa you can weld them together to create a heavier base, keep it from bouncing around on you. As far as the heat from welding changing the properties of the metal... If I am unsure about stresses I do the welding in stages, a few inches at a time. If you keep the temperature in reason you should have no problem... make sure the pieces you want to weld are at least 60 degrees before you start welding and you should be good.
Hi, thanks for your clear explanation, For my "anvil" even though its a bit of a odd shape, I used a piece of thick steel I cut off an old oxygen bottle, it's the only good steel I have got that has a nice "ring" and does not get dented that much
I got a rail track as a first anvil then I got a proper anvil and I can tell the difference from the sound and rebound from the anvil and railway track 😁
Very informative and well presented video. Audio and video qualities aren't always going to be perfect but that's where captions can come in handy. Thank you very much for making this video Jeff!
Very helpful, I've been interested in buying an anvil and I nearly bought a cheap one... I guess it would be better to look for a bit of track, at a scrap yard
In the old days there were a lot of cast iron anvils with good steel tops welded to them. Most if the time these were forge welded. My only concern with arc welding them would be the cooling of the welds. The steel and the iron expand and shrink at different, it may crack if your not careful. My advice, look up a video on repairing an anvil. If they are arc welding for the repair they would have the same issues you would face adding the hardened surface, give you an idea of what your in for.
If you live in the United States do a google search for "ABANA" it stands for Artist Blacksmith's Association of North America. They have a lot of people who have a lot of information. Outside the U.S. I would suggest finding living history groups. Most of them have someone around who smiths and may even be willing to take on an apprentice.
I just found myself a 131 pound Peter Wright anvil at an antique store. Got it for $325. It is in great condition, all the corners are great, horn is near perfect, and it rings and rebounds beautifully. However, a small bit of mushrooming on a 1-inch length of the side and there is some scars and stories to tell on the surface... nothing deep, just looks like a bunch of thumbnail intentions. I would think hardened steel wouldn't react that way, but it rings like it. Maybe pounding from the last 130 years could do that? Hoping i got a decent deal.
You got a high quality anvil. What makes it a decent deal depends on your financial status as well as how strongly you needed/wanted a high quality anvil.
There's an old piece of railroad in cement laying near my school, and I'm thinking on going with a hacksaw and taking it, the only problem if it is just lying around our if it works for a specific function
+agustin venegas I've sawn through a section of railroad track with a power bandsaw. You'd better bring a lot of hacksaw blades with you is all I can say. Maybe a lunch too?
agustin venegas It helps to look at a cross section of cut track to gain an appreciation for the amount of material involved. i.imgur.com/QsCXj.jpg That flat bottom surface is 5-3/8s of an inch wide. The head is 2-3/4" wide. So it is a thick piece of steel. My poor little band saw could not cut it in one pass. i.imgur.com/YvLQO.jpg
What if you were to buy a big box anvle, and put a piece of cultivator shovel with plow bolts, then heat with a torch, hammer flat, and harden by spraying with water?
dude great video,any recomendations on wether or not to weld a bit of tool steel to a block of softer steel,and if i did would i have to do anything to it like heat it or anything to releive stess.any advice is greatly appreciated.(its a block of steel like 8inx5inx6in(25lbs) and a piece of a gigantic wrench stamped rockwell 50somthin,so decently hard stuff)
My question is about the anvil you describe as cast iron. I have been told that cast iron is no longer made and what is sold as cast iron is really cast steel. Please clarify. Thank you.
the block of steal right at the end what type of steal is that? Can it be placed on the end of a stump and used as an anvil? Desperately trying to start Blacksmithing with next to nothing,
Two other very good channels on youtube for blacksmithing are "TechnicusJoe" and "garyhuston" Both of them talk a lot more on technique and traditional methods. You may have run across them already, if not they are both wonderful to watch and I have learned a lot from them. Welcome to the Channel!
I thought that rail road track was cast iron. Also why does cast iron absorbs energy if it has a higher amount of carbon, about twice as much then high carbon steel
if the anvil face is hardened and the hammer is hardened if you hit hardened with hardened cant you have bad results of chip flying and sticking in body?
Perhaps you are not interested in anvils, perhaps this video was made for the over 20,000 other people who viewed it. Also if I already wasted your time I sincerely apologize but am amused that you would chose to waste even more time leaving a comment... thanks for the view :)
I have a piece of rail that i use to work on, but it isn't flat on the top and that can be a bit of a pain. you said you can grind it flat. where would be a place i could get that done?
Find a local machine shop or someone with a milling machine. They should be able to get it flat for you, just be aware that professional shops charge a lot. See of there is a ABANA (Artist Blacksmith's Association of North America) in your area, they may know of resources and people that can help that are relatively local to you... hope that helps.
Hi great video. So with the steel anvils reflecting the energy back, if i was hitting it with 20 lbs of force and my anvil was 40 lbs would this be a good ratio? Kind of a open question but there must be a certain amount of weight for the anvil to be before returns diminish? Regards
Welcome to the channel, There are several videos out here that talk about hammer weight vs the weight of the anvil. Its not something I know much about. I will however mention that using a sledge on a cast or wrought anvil can break off the horn or tail. Sometimes people try to forge their hardy tools right in their anvils hardy hole, they figure bigger the hammer the faster the metal is going to move. If you have ever seen an anvil with a broken tail that is why about 90% of the time.
Jeff, Great video. Thanks. Subscribed. BIG QUESTION FOR YOU! Saturday I finally found an anvil which suited me! It is in fantastic condition! I can't figure out how to PM you or post a picture, but is is very similar to your "good" anvil. Casting marks on the side and all make it look like a different model from same manufacturer. Mine has absolutely no manufacturer markings anywhere. I lifted it with my tractor and nothing on the bottom either. Came from a 78 year old fellow who inherited it from his dad and he thinks it was first on his grand dad's farm here in VA. The anvil weighs approx 350 lbs. QUESTION IS: How did you determine age on your anvil and (presumably) the manufacturer. Yours is the only one similar to mine that I've found on the web. If you can tell me how to reach you, I'll send pictures. I hope you are still checking comments on you tube. Thanks, Jerry
thanks for your info here do you any where that is showing how the old ore new style anvils are made i would love to see how they get the ping "into" the anvils :)
I don't know why I clicked this video... but I am leaving here a smarter man. Thanks ;)
same lmfao, I like the guy, he sounds honest and really interested at blacksmithing :)
Same. Never thought iron anvils and steel anvils give different results.
My sentiments EXACTLY, concise instructions...THANK YOU. Just gonna subscribe.x❤️🤘🏻❤️
You can tell just how passionate he is about this beautiful craft.
Love it!
Thank you for taking the time to teach us all about this topic-I leave here with the knowledge to purchase the proper anvil.
Hello Jeff Just wanted to let you know that I really enjoyed your Basics of Anvils . Your a very good Teacher! I hope to see more Thanks ! Tony.
Your explanation was very informative and the info on the steel differences helped me understand the added energy when working on railway track. I WISH I had kept the short length I gave away. Thanks.
Thanks very informative. Good weather too.im in Herefordshire England and great day too.
They've become even more expensive in the years since this video was made. A good, properly constructed, new anvil of around 275 pounds, here in the USA, usually sells for around two grand.
Just picked up a 18 in by 10 inch 2 inch thick piece of Steel today at a scrapyard I gave the guy 40 bucks for it. Slapped it on top of a maple stump making a forge out of a small wood stove. Been wanting to do this for decades now I've waited till I'm all full of arthritis and s*** but I'm still doing it. very informative video
Great video, great clear information, love you charisma: all you can ask for in UA-cam. Keep it up!
HA HA. Thanks Jeff. Im an old oft hand, thats oil field trash, and Ive had a couple smithy friends. They always seem so soft spoken and polite. What a contrast to my fellow roughnecks lol. Great video bro.
This is a very well done video excellent information for newbies thank you!
Hi, Over all, the info was good but I would like to say a couple things.
I have been blacksmithing for over 30 years, I am an instructor for CBA California Blacksmith Assoc.
Please do not try to cut a chunk of RR track to look like an anvil. The result will be on a par with the ASO (Anvil Shaped Object) that is cast iron. There is way too much spring as the web is too thin. If you must use a RR track, stand it on end like a fence post, now you will have a solid mass of steel under the hammer blows. Yes the target area is small but you only need enough for the hammer face. In this position, you will get a rebound to the hammer and you will be much more effective in your blows.
A solid block of steel that weighs 75 to 150 pounds will make a VERY good starting anvil. Look for a section of round stock 4 to 6 inches in diameter and again set it like a fence post. Also, a cut piece of plate 3 or so inches thick and 12 inches X 12 inches works well when striking on the 3 inch side with the mass under the hammer, not flat to get a big surface. In anvils, more is better. You need mass under the hammer. A block of steel, smoothed by a grinder with a rounded end at one end will be a better anvil than nearly all smiths in history has had up until the addition of hard plate to the face.
You can not add a section of high carbon steel to a block by welding with an arc welder. Even if you make a good, solid weld, there will be a huge un-welded section in the center, this will spring and flex, sucking the energy from your hammer blows, wasting your energy. It is better to just start with a good block of steel, preferably 100 to 120 pounds, grind smooth and don't miss your work with the hammer. If you do, smooth the face with your grinder. Every mark in the face of your anvil or your hammer will transfer to your work like a stamp and it will make cleanup of your work all that much harder.
Excavator bucket pin is what I used
Wayne Paris
The idea of standing up a RR track on end like a fence post is stupid.
An RR track is obviously going to make a smaller anvil and will be used for smaller things. RR track is completely legitimate as the small anvil it produces.
@@kcb5336 You have it backwards, more mass under the hammer and more stable is always better regardless of the size of the project. The mass under the hammer when the track is on end is much more stable and the greater mass will allow more metal to be moved. On it's side, there is no mass under the hammer and the web acts like a spring moving side to side and you get the double whammy of no mas and a non solid surface. On its side is worse for both smaller things and bigger things, while on end you can do both better. The size of the striking surface does not matter as the only work getting done is under the hammer so as long as the anvil is big enough for the face of the hammer it is much more effective in moving metal.
wayne parris
I understand what you’re saying and I’ll agree you’re technically correct. But we’re talking a 50-60lb RR track anvil compared to a 300lb “real” anvil. What do you expect the size of the project to be? I would expect the project will be in proportion to the anvil itself. That’s all.
@@kcb5336 No, you are not understanding. I am talking about a 60 pound track and a 60 pound track. Mounted vertical (like a fence post which you said is stupid) it has much more mass under the hammer and is much more stable, more mass and more stable is better.
Better yet, avoid the whole track thing and just buy 50 to 100 pounds of scrap steel in a block form. I never said anything about a "real" anvil. A block of scrap mild steel about 10 inches x 12 inches x 3 1/2 inches thick is about 100 pounds. Or 2 feet of 3 inch dia round bar or 2 feet of 3 x 4 rectangle bar etc. It can be bought for roughly fifty cents a pound depending on where you are. Mount it so it is 12 inches high, and 10 x 3 1/2 across the face. You now have what has been known for centuries as a block anvil. Made from better steel than was ever available in the past.
I have been wanting to learn blacksmithing so I found a 3' section of railroad track fastened it to a log very close to the same width little overhang attached it with railroad spikes and it has worked very well the past 3yrs, I built my forge the same way out of an old gas water heater center tank cut length wise in the middle and 55 gal oil drum as the stand, all still better then you can buy at a store, I found a 3" inch x 1'x1' plate steel that I will temper in camp fire and water, rout out the top of a tamarack log counter sink it in that is my next anvil I am working on... thanks for the share ...
I've got a 15 inch section of railroad rail as an anvil. Works very well!
To be a bit scientific and specific for those who wonder, it is not only brute force that shapes the metal, the shock-waves "liquefies" it to a degree, this is how these waves reflected from steel (ringing) helps the process - you get many hits inside of one hammerblow and less loss of energy (absorption)
hey thanks for that, it helped me understand the anvil much better
Excellent advice. Thanks
Thank you kindly for very good explanation, it helps me lots
You know what Jeff,, YOU DA MAN!!!...THANK YOU!!!
It's true that old tools weren't always better made, but on the other hand, something that has been around for a hundred or more years and I'd still in working condition was probably made pretty well, or at least made to be sturdy.
Thanks for the teaching Sir
Thank You. New guy in CT just learning the ropes. your video was a good help.
Thanks man, beautifully done!!
Thanks Jeff, yes I'm learning. Hi from Canberra, Australia
wholesome and educational thank you so much
@MrJsowa you can weld them together to create a heavier base, keep it from bouncing around on you. As far as the heat from welding changing the properties of the metal... If I am unsure about stresses I do the welding in stages, a few inches at a time. If you keep the temperature in reason you should have no problem... make sure the pieces you want to weld are at least 60 degrees before you start welding and you should be good.
Great video. Thanks
I have an awesome weekly auction to go to ... this video will be helpful in my anvil quest.
I love this video. Helped me select a anvil for my dad! Thanks!
Jeffrey...great video. Thanks for sharing.
The video was very informative, thank u.
Thank you for this video!! Has helped me alot . I really wanna get into smithing
Hi, thanks for your clear explanation, For my "anvil" even though its a bit of a odd shape, I used a piece of thick steel I cut off an old oxygen bottle, it's the only good steel I have got that has a nice "ring" and does not get dented that much
A great and informative video. Thanks from Ireland
Dear Mr. Jeff sir, thanks for your video. l learned much. Blessings, pierre from New Mexico
Excellent introductory video... Thank you so much for sharing...
I got a rail track as a first anvil then I got a proper anvil and I can tell the difference from the sound and rebound from the anvil and railway track 😁
That was good info, you were to the point and explained things well. Thanks
great video, thanks.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing.
Good information
Thanks
Thanks you. i am so excited to get started
Very informative and well presented video. Audio and video qualities aren't always going to be perfect but that's where captions can come in handy. Thank you very much for making this video Jeff!
BEST ADVICE! Thanks
Thank you I learned a few things and I appreciate your help
Thank you John from ireland
Thanks I learned a lot from this.
Great video.
Thanks for info
A very interesting and informative video, thank you.
Hey nice info thanks!!
Hi,
And thank you for your help and info!
Thanks for posting, very informative and helpful!. Merry XMas
Definitely helpful, thank you!
thanks good video.
Very informative video. Thank you.
nice , thanks from Maine!
Very helpful, I've been interested in buying an anvil and I nearly bought a cheap one... I guess it would be better to look for a bit of track, at a scrap yard
thank you
very helpful thanks
thank you keep it coming
thank you for the insight
Thank you for this, very learnful
In the old days there were a lot of cast iron anvils with good steel tops welded to them. Most if the time these were forge welded. My only concern with arc welding them would be the cooling of the welds. The steel and the iron expand and shrink at different, it may crack if your not careful. My advice, look up a video on repairing an anvil. If they are arc welding for the repair they would have the same issues you would face adding the hardened surface, give you an idea of what your in for.
In the old days the body of an anvil was wrought iron, not cast iron. I don't think it is even possible to forge weld a steel top to cast iron!
Thanks for posting your vids. I have learned a lot.
If you live in the United States do a google search for "ABANA" it stands for Artist Blacksmith's Association of North America. They have a lot of people who have a lot of information. Outside the U.S. I would suggest finding living history groups. Most of them have someone around who smiths and may even be willing to take on an apprentice.
Jeff nice video and thanks for sharing..
Thanks! It was an inspiring and helpful video
Good video.
Thanks mate, you've helped me alot with selecting an anvil to start with.
Cheers.
That was a good video. You have very concisely answered all my unasked questions on anvils. Many thanks and I've just subscribed. Have a good day.
Thanks Jeff. :)
I learned a few things from this, thanks.
THANK YOU BROTHER..
I just found myself a 131 pound Peter Wright anvil at an antique store. Got it for $325. It is in great condition, all the corners are great, horn is near perfect, and it rings and rebounds beautifully. However, a small bit of mushrooming on a 1-inch length of the side and there is some scars and stories to tell on the surface... nothing deep, just looks like a bunch of thumbnail intentions. I would think hardened steel wouldn't react that way, but it rings like it. Maybe pounding from the last 130 years could do that? Hoping i got a decent deal.
You got a high quality anvil. What makes it a decent deal depends on your financial status as well as how strongly you needed/wanted a high quality anvil.
Good info.
Thank you!
Thanks that was helpful.
Very informative mate, cheers
Hey there Jeffrey,
You seem like a pretty cool guy.....thanks for the video .....Ken :-)
Excellent Video Jeff !
I just Subscribed to your channel.
Thank you Sir for the Great content.
There's an old piece of railroad in cement laying near my school, and I'm thinking on going with a hacksaw and taking it, the only problem if it is just lying around our if it works for a specific function
+agustin venegas I've sawn through a section of railroad track with a power bandsaw. You'd better bring a lot of hacksaw blades with you is all I can say. Maybe a lunch too?
Paul Frederick hahaha ok, i'll look for options then, thanks for the advice
agustin venegas
It helps to look at a cross section of cut track to gain an appreciation for the amount of material involved. i.imgur.com/QsCXj.jpg That flat bottom surface is 5-3/8s of an inch wide. The head is 2-3/4" wide. So it is a thick piece of steel. My poor little band saw could not cut it in one pass. i.imgur.com/YvLQO.jpg
this was really informational automatic subscribe
I'm the 75th like!!!!!!!!! This video was very informational thanks :)
nice video
I subbed....what an informative one...
What if you were to buy a big box anvle, and put a piece of cultivator shovel with plow bolts, then heat with a torch, hammer flat, and harden by spraying with water?
dude great video,any recomendations on wether or not to weld a bit of tool steel to a block of softer steel,and if i did would i have to do anything to it like heat it or anything to releive stess.any advice is greatly appreciated.(its a block of steel like 8inx5inx6in(25lbs) and a piece of a gigantic wrench stamped rockwell 50somthin,so decently hard stuff)
My question is about the anvil you describe as cast iron. I have been told that cast iron is no longer made and what is sold as cast iron is really cast steel. Please clarify. Thank you.
the block of steal right at the end what type of steal is that? Can it be placed on the end of a stump and used as an anvil? Desperately trying to start Blacksmithing with next to nothing,
god damn, you're a good teacher.
Check out NC Tool for anvils. They're a farrier supply with high quality American made stuff.
Two other very good channels on youtube for blacksmithing are "TechnicusJoe" and "garyhuston" Both of them talk a lot more on technique and traditional methods. You may have run across them already, if not they are both wonderful to watch and I have learned a lot from them. Welcome to the Channel!
Muito Bom!!!
Very Good!
Brasil!
I thought that rail road track was cast iron. Also why does cast iron absorbs energy if it has a higher amount of carbon, about twice as much then high carbon steel
if the anvil face is hardened and the hammer is hardened
if you hit hardened with hardened cant you have bad results of chip flying and sticking in body?
Why would I be interested in anvils? I'm a retired stockbroker. Waste of time talking to me, my friend.
Perhaps you are not interested in anvils, perhaps this video was made for the over 20,000 other people who viewed it. Also if I already wasted your time I sincerely apologize but am amused that you would chose to waste even more time leaving a comment... thanks for the view :)
...I was just being silly mate, I think it's a great vid :)
Is it possible to cut a piece of railroad with a a demolition blade equipped sawzall?
I have a piece of rail that i use to work on, but it isn't flat on the top and that can be a bit of a pain. you said you can grind it flat. where would be a place i could get that done?
Find a local machine shop or someone with a milling machine. They should be able to get it flat for you, just be aware that professional shops charge a lot. See of there is a ABANA (Artist Blacksmith's Association of North America) in your area, they may know of resources and people that can help that are relatively local to you... hope that helps.
Hi great video. So with the steel anvils reflecting the energy back, if i was hitting it with 20 lbs of force and my anvil was 40 lbs would this be a good ratio? Kind of a open question but there must be a certain amount of weight for the anvil to be before returns diminish? Regards
Welcome to the channel, There are several videos out here that talk about hammer weight vs the weight of the anvil. Its not something I know much about. I will however mention that using a sledge on a cast or wrought anvil can break off the horn or tail. Sometimes people try to forge their hardy tools right in their anvils hardy hole, they figure bigger the hammer the faster the metal is going to move. If you have ever seen an anvil with a broken tail that is why about 90% of the time.
Jeff,
Great video. Thanks. Subscribed. BIG QUESTION FOR YOU! Saturday I finally found an anvil which suited me! It is in fantastic condition! I can't figure out how to PM you or post a picture, but is is very similar to your "good" anvil. Casting marks on the side and all make it look like a different model from same manufacturer.
Mine has absolutely no manufacturer markings anywhere. I lifted it with my tractor and nothing on the bottom either. Came from a 78 year old fellow who inherited it from his dad and he thinks it was first on his grand dad's farm here in VA. The anvil weighs approx 350 lbs. QUESTION IS: How did you determine age on your anvil and (presumably) the manufacturer. Yours is the only one similar to mine that I've found on the web.
If you can tell me how to reach you, I'll send pictures. I hope you are still checking comments on you tube. Thanks, Jerry
Jerry Thrash the first anvil he showed was a Fisher anvil. There are lots of fan sites for them online
thanks for your info here
do you any where that is showing how the old ore new style anvils are made i would love to see how they get the ping "into" the anvils :)