Also notice that the external oil line to the rear of the head has been removed. Deemed unnecessary due to the increased oil pressure, we will see how that works out.
Great to hear from you again! I watched your videos about ten years ago. It was a superb build and I'm surprised you sold it. That GT6 is a beast, for sure.
Yea, it all got to be too much for me with all the other automotive interests I have - I was spread too thin, racing takes a lot. However I am planning to resurrect my street GT6+ with a performance engine, just not to this extreme. I learned a lot building this car and I will apply it to that project. Thanks for watching.
I had a 1968 GT-6 that I heavily modified by installing a TR-6 engine, Rayjay turbo, Chevy Monza flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and starter, and it drove a Warner T-50 over driven 5 speed transmission. I never popped the clutch or shifted violently. Yet I broke a total of 14 differentials over 2 years. I started using Spitfire rear ends that were cheap and abundant but had 4.11 gears. I think the GT-6 came with 3.87 ratio. I had water/alcohol injection that came on at 8 psi. It sucked through a 2'' S.U. carb. The trick to the whole setup was adapting a Pontiac vacuum advance that had a pressure retard port. It could see 12-14 pounds boost for short periods. The pistons were stock TR-6 and sometimes the ring lands collapsed and it smoked like hell and blew oil all over the place. I had a Jaguar rear end that I was going to narrow and install. But around 1982 I bought a Ferrari 308GTS and sold the GT-6 with broken piston rings. It barely ran. It used to accelerate like a scalded ape. I noticed your intake and exhaust ports are staggered. My 2 liter GT-6 engine had the ports all in a straight line. You could spot a TR-6 head with its high/low ports. Is that a TR-6 head? I'm remodeling my garage after smoke and water damage after a lithium battery fire. Hidden behind things is that original GT-6 engine that got me through college in the 1970's and a set of Rotoflex axles I never adapted. I used seat belt webbing from the body to the swing axle to prevent tuck under and spinouts. It was a very cheap fix. In the shop next to the garage I just uncovered my 4 wheel drive Spitfire with Chevy 3.1 V-6 today. It has not been moved since 2007. Something in the 700R4 trans broke and its stuck in 2nd. I may fix it after the shop is redone. What's with the brake cylinders with clevis pivots. 2 master cylinders?
Well, I imagine a turbocharged 2.5 liter TR6 engine would indeed destroy the diminutive spitfire differential at the slightest provocation! Quite the hot rod. This is a GT6 cylinder head (not TR6). The dual Tilton brake master cylinders allow for brake bias adjustment and have a few other advantages, but the stock master would work about as well. May I ask what kind of device started the fire in your garage? I am always paranoid about charging any lithium batteries in my shop.
@@Porsche9elfer YT would not post my answer. Here's the short version... A 3600 amp hour battery console in operation for 3 years at low loads had 3 levels of batteries 4 across. Twelve NAME BRAND 300 amp hour batteries in all, 46,000 watt hours. One of the bottom batteries caught fire and set the whole thing on fire. The Fire Investigators are looking closely. Clearly, a BMS fried then dead shorted.
Inside the smoke and water damaged shop is this goody I built. It was a very sad Spitfire body only, no frame, being dumped at the landfill. It never made it off their trailer and they got some $$$$ for taking it to my place. Purists, I SAVED a Spitfire from being crushed by a bulldozer. I blew the 700R4 auto trans in it years ago. I will have it rebuilt after they fix my shop and the adjoining garage. There is a Ferrari 308GTS covered up in moving blankets in the garage next to 2 Honda CBX six cylinder motorcycles. Time to play with cars again. ua-cam.com/video/RSPL5qxcq90/v-deo.html
@@kimmer6 That is really terrible. At least you did not lose the whole garage. My friends call me paranoid because I do not leave anything plugged in in my shop at night ( I was in a fire when I was a teenager). I've heard too many stories about various electrical devices catching fire while unattended - usually old refrigerators or old electric motors. So I made a rule: nothing plugged in while I am away. I tell people not to charge their electric bikes in their house but not a single person listens to me.
great car and video. Thanks for posting. I own this cars smaller brother, a race prepped vintage 1971 Spitfire Mark IV as well as a Cobra. Great cars and lots of fun on track. Very interested in a video on that oiling system. May be just the device to save the crankshafts in the cars. I have a strange piece of kit from when the Spit was first built as a race car back in 1971, I believe it may have to do with some external oiling system for the crank. Cheers from Texas
Greeting Texas! I've seen some very fast Spitfires in my time, on some tracks quicker than much more powerful cars. The oiling system is very simple: it taps pressure directly after the oil pump and feeds it into the main oil gallery right beside each of the main bearings farther away. The main oil gallery is left intact as well. People say this prevents pressure drop in the bearings far away from the oil pump, essentially equalizing pressure in the main oil gallery. If the oil gallery were large enough in diameter it would not be necessary, nor desirable, to have all these extra lines.
I believe the front sway bar is the larger one used by later Spitfires and the rear one is aftermarket made for a GT6 and is 5/8 " diameter (not 100% sure on the diameter). Right or wrong the car handles fairly well although it is nose heavy.
I owned a GT6 back in the 1980s. Power to weight was OK for the time. The most important modifications to make are to the rear suspension. When you broke loose the back end the rear wheels tucked in and you were off for a spin difficult to recover. It died one cold icy night with a triple pirouette. It hit curbs, fences, everything. Every panel in the car was smashed, unrepairable BUT I walked away unhurt, however my pride has never recovered from driving like a Dork. If I had that GT6 in my garage now I might have as much fun on a Sunday morning as I do with my Mercedes SL.
Yes, the swing axle GT6s can be handful. Triumph fixed that with the MK2 rotoflex suspension, but then for some strange reason ($) reverted to swing axle with the late MK3. This race car has two U-joints and a slider in the half shafts to replace the rotoflex.
What is the purpose of the tray underneath the intake manifold? It is a gorgeous six cylinder I have watched the first two just now and it is a beautiful six cylinder engine. Do the current owners have a UA-cam channel with videos of the car? Thank you.
It serves as a heat shield from the headers underneath, also if there is a fuel leak it keeps the fuel from leaking directly onto the headers. Mostly it is a heat shield. I don't think they have a youtube channel
A hot GT6 would be a great little car; I see you changed the axle to u-joint, did you change the diff? the stub axles are quite weak, and I have seen Nissan diffs put in.
The diff in this car is welded, other than that it is stock. No problems so far. The GT6 sun gears are definitely a weak point, but that problem goes away when welded. Even though they are identical it is important to never reverse the stub axle sides when disassembling an old rear end. It may sound like an "old wives tale", but doing this is considered a cardinal sin among race mechanics that I've talked to. The grain structure of the metal takes a set over many years and may even twist a little, if you reverse the main torque load they will snap!
What is the radiator / fan setup? Currently running a 70’ GT6 with a performance cam and could use some help keeping it cool here in the Las Vegas summers.
It is from a VW Sirocco. See the part 1 video from 15 years ago for more details. We have never had overheating even racing at 95F like in this video weekend. Also there is an oil cooler. Sometimes just having a new or completely cleaned out GT6 radiator will solve overheating. My street GT6 used to always overheat until I had a new core put in the original radiator. Your performance cam will not add much to overheating unless you are pushing the car hard.
You had me hooked with the 3 Weber's.
Great to see the car back again, it's what brought me to your channel and your products. I'd be keen on a video about that oiling system. Take care!
Also notice that the external oil line to the rear of the head has been removed. Deemed unnecessary due to the increased oil pressure, we will see how that works out.
Great to hear from you again! I watched your videos about ten years ago. It was a superb build and I'm surprised you sold it. That GT6 is a beast, for sure.
Yea, it all got to be too much for me with all the other automotive interests I have - I was spread too thin, racing takes a lot. However I am planning to resurrect my street GT6+ with a performance engine, just not to this extreme. I learned a lot building this car and I will apply it to that project. Thanks for watching.
I had a 1968 GT-6 that I heavily modified by installing a TR-6 engine, Rayjay turbo, Chevy Monza flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and starter, and it drove a Warner T-50 over driven 5 speed transmission. I never popped the clutch or shifted violently. Yet I broke a total of 14 differentials over 2 years. I started using Spitfire rear ends that were cheap and abundant but had 4.11 gears. I think the GT-6 came with 3.87 ratio. I had water/alcohol injection that came on at 8 psi. It sucked through a 2'' S.U. carb. The trick to the whole setup was adapting a Pontiac vacuum advance that had a pressure retard port. It could see 12-14 pounds boost for short periods. The pistons were stock TR-6 and sometimes the ring lands collapsed and it smoked like hell and blew oil all over the place. I had a Jaguar rear end that I was going to narrow and install. But around 1982 I bought a Ferrari 308GTS and sold the GT-6 with broken piston rings. It barely ran. It used to accelerate like a scalded ape.
I noticed your intake and exhaust ports are staggered. My 2 liter GT-6 engine had the ports all in a straight line. You could spot a TR-6 head with its high/low ports. Is that a TR-6 head? I'm remodeling my garage after smoke and water damage after a lithium battery fire. Hidden behind things is that original GT-6 engine that got me through college in the 1970's and a set of Rotoflex axles I never adapted. I used seat belt webbing from the body to the swing axle to prevent tuck under and spinouts. It was a very cheap fix. In the shop next to the garage I just uncovered my 4 wheel drive Spitfire with Chevy 3.1 V-6 today. It has not been moved since 2007. Something in the 700R4 trans broke and its stuck in 2nd. I may fix it after the shop is redone.
What's with the brake cylinders with clevis pivots. 2 master cylinders?
Well, I imagine a turbocharged 2.5 liter TR6 engine would indeed destroy the diminutive spitfire differential at the slightest provocation! Quite the hot rod.
This is a GT6 cylinder head (not TR6). The dual Tilton brake master cylinders allow for brake bias adjustment and have a few other advantages, but the stock master would work about as well.
May I ask what kind of device started the fire in your garage? I am always paranoid about charging any lithium batteries in my shop.
@@Porsche9elfer YT would not post my answer. Here's the short version... A 3600 amp hour battery console in operation for 3 years at low loads had 3 levels of batteries 4 across. Twelve NAME BRAND 300 amp hour batteries in all, 46,000 watt hours. One of the bottom batteries caught fire and set the whole thing on fire. The Fire Investigators are looking closely. Clearly, a BMS fried then dead shorted.
Inside the smoke and water damaged shop is this goody I built. It was a very sad Spitfire body only, no frame, being dumped at the landfill. It never made it off their trailer and they got some $$$$ for taking it to my place. Purists, I SAVED a Spitfire from being crushed by a bulldozer. I blew the 700R4 auto trans in it years ago. I will have it rebuilt after they fix my shop and the adjoining garage. There is a Ferrari 308GTS covered up in moving blankets in the garage next to 2 Honda CBX six cylinder motorcycles. Time to play with cars again. ua-cam.com/video/RSPL5qxcq90/v-deo.html
@@kimmer6 That is really terrible. At least you did not lose the whole garage. My friends call me paranoid because I do not leave anything plugged in in my shop at night ( I was in a fire when I was a teenager). I've heard too many stories about various electrical devices catching fire while unattended - usually old refrigerators or old electric motors. So I made a rule: nothing plugged in while I am away. I tell people not to charge their electric bikes in their house but not a single person listens to me.
@@Porsche9elfer All of my charging stations will be outside from now on between stucco siding and concrete block wall. Stay safe!
Great to see the car again, thanks for the update
love these cars, last drove one in 1978
great car and video. Thanks for posting. I own this cars smaller brother, a race prepped vintage 1971 Spitfire Mark IV as well as a Cobra. Great cars and lots of fun on track. Very interested in a video on that oiling system. May be just the device to save the crankshafts in the cars. I have a strange piece of kit from when the Spit was first built as a race car back in 1971, I believe it may have to do with some external oiling system for the crank. Cheers from Texas
Greeting Texas! I've seen some very fast Spitfires in my time, on some tracks quicker than much more powerful cars. The oiling system is very simple: it taps pressure directly after the oil pump and feeds it into the main oil gallery right beside each of the main bearings farther away. The main oil gallery is left intact as well. People say this prevents pressure drop in the bearings far away from the oil pump, essentially equalizing pressure in the main oil gallery. If the oil gallery were large enough in diameter it would not be necessary, nor desirable, to have all these extra lines.
Any information on the anti roll bar set up would be appreciated?
I believe the front sway bar is the larger one used by later Spitfires and the rear one is aftermarket made for a GT6 and is 5/8 " diameter (not 100% sure on the diameter). Right or wrong the car handles fairly well although it is nose heavy.
I owned a GT6 back in the 1980s. Power to weight was OK for the time. The most important modifications to make are to the rear suspension. When you broke loose the back end the rear wheels tucked in and you were off for a spin difficult to recover. It died one cold icy night with a triple pirouette. It hit curbs, fences, everything. Every panel in the car was smashed, unrepairable BUT I walked away unhurt, however my pride has never recovered from driving like a Dork. If I had that GT6 in my garage now I might have as much fun on a Sunday morning as I do with my Mercedes SL.
Yes, the swing axle GT6s can be handful. Triumph fixed that with the MK2 rotoflex suspension, but then for some strange reason ($) reverted to swing axle with the late MK3. This race car has two U-joints and a slider in the half shafts to replace the rotoflex.
SL are fab, but a GT6 is definitely more fun, particularly on a Sunday morning
What is the purpose of the tray underneath the intake manifold? It is a gorgeous six cylinder I have watched the first two just now and it is a beautiful six cylinder engine. Do the current owners have a UA-cam channel with videos of the car? Thank you.
It serves as a heat shield from the headers underneath, also if there is a fuel leak it keeps the fuel from leaking directly onto the headers. Mostly it is a heat shield.
I don't think they have a youtube channel
@@Porsche9elfer Thanks, makes sense.
A hot GT6 would be a great little car; I see you changed the axle to u-joint, did you change the diff? the stub axles are quite weak, and I have seen Nissan diffs put in.
The diff in this car is welded, other than that it is stock. No problems so far. The GT6 sun gears are definitely a weak point, but that problem goes away when welded.
Even though they are identical it is important to never reverse the stub axle sides when disassembling an old rear end. It may sound like an "old wives tale", but doing this is considered a cardinal sin among race mechanics that I've talked to. The grain structure of the metal takes a set over many years and may even twist a little, if you reverse the main torque load they will snap!
What is the radiator / fan setup? Currently running a 70’ GT6 with a performance cam and could use some help keeping it cool here in the Las Vegas summers.
It is from a VW Sirocco. See the part 1 video from 15 years ago for more details. We have never had overheating even racing at 95F like in this video weekend. Also there is an oil cooler. Sometimes just having a new or completely cleaned out GT6 radiator will solve overheating. My street GT6 used to always overheat until I had a new core put in the original radiator. Your performance cam will not add much to overheating unless you are pushing the car hard.