SikaProof A+ Beer Fail
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- In this video, I run a test sample of SikaProof A+ It didn't blow my hair back so the search continues. The modern adhesive based membranes are proving to be much stronger than what Sika sells today. In the next video, I will be testing a brand new to market (Sept2023) adhesive based membrane called Vintegra. Fingers crossed!
I am Josh : )
Thank you, Jason.
Always glad to help
Not sure of your project but you are looking at products designed for different applications. The selk-stick sheets are where you have access to the exterior of the structure. Sika A+ is designed as a blindside product that either has concrete poured up against it or shotcrete - either way you need a blinding layer first. We use the Sika A+ system on basement structures and fully heat-weld all of the seams. Terminations are generally out of ground so whilst yes it is a fully bonded system it is designed to keep out lateral water pressure which it does perfectly. Where the A+ terminates below ground then we use Sikadur 31 epoxy and sandwich the sheet between the epoxy onto the concrete or we combine it with the Sika Combiflex system.......try this and you'll never pull it off and water will never get behind it. If you leave an edge as you have then of course you'll be able to pull it off.
The self-stick sheets and nowhere near as strong as the A+ and rely on overlapping seams with self-stick adhesive or adhesive tapes. In my opinion these systems are more prone to failure because of the reliance on the seams being permanently bonded together.
Take a peek at my channel and you will see the difficult blindside water treatment solution I am working on. The sika stuff I showed in the video sucks. It's really an old idea and systems have evolved immensely in just the last 10years. I have a new product that just hit the market in september in testing right now. I am having some small growing pains learning the system, but when it works, you can't tear this stuff off concrete with a tow truck! It's seriously that good! My initial tests looked bad on video and in order to be fair, I am working with the manufacturer to give them a fair shake at what looks like a game changer in this market. Stay tuned and thanks for your comment. I'm not a concrete guy, I just play one on youtube. ;-)
@@jagboy69 I've looked at your project and it looks very interesting and challenging. I have used many different sheet systems over the years and will say that Sika A+ is up there with the very best. Given free choice I'd use it over anything else. The reason being that it offers the best seam to seam bonding. We now heat weld all of our seams together so effectively they are vulcanised and nothing will get them apart. If you create a system that is a complete envelope
If you are going to be putting chairs on the ground to support your reinforcing how will you peel off the tape on the PMH 3040 under the chairs and get the concrete to bond?
I think you are putting too much emphasis on how well the material bonds to the concrete which is largely irrelevant. For a waterproofing solution to be effective the most important thing is that water can't get between it and the concrete and that all comes down to sheet to sheet joins, internal/external corners and dealing with penetrations. Even if the sheet were loose laid with zero bond it would still be 100% effective if you get the details right.
Try taking some of your very sticky stuff on a piece of concrete as you have but then submerge it in water for a week or two... see how well bonded it is then? I'd be interested to see how it deals with submersion
What are you going to use as a blinding layer that the membrane will be applied to?
@@Darryl-du2pw While I can appreciate the idea of a completely sealed envelope, I know my track record. I'm a belt and braces sort. All it takes is one screw up on my part and water gets between a membrane and the concrete, it will eventually find a way into my E-type. As you know, ALL concrete cracks. The issue is where is the actual leak and that's impossible to determine when the water traveled down a wall 15feet. If the material is bonded to the back of the wall, you can bet the leak is right where you see it. I have done submersion tests with the OY material with no change in bond strength. That HDPE they use is very difficult to puncture while I can damage SIKA A+ with an ink pen. The bad news is actually getting PMH3040 is probably not going to happen. I refuse to get tangled up with importing a container again, that's a major PITA! OY only wants to ship using FEDEX and the shipping way more than the material. So I am trying a stateside option.
A blinding layer isn't required any of these HDPE membranes. It gets laid directly on the soil.
@@jagboy69 The problem with the systems you like is that they rely on tape to seal seams or on an adhesive on the back to seal the seams. Either way, they are going to require strong continuous pressure with a pressure roller to seal them tightly together. That will be very hard to do up against uneven soil
I've waterproofed many basements and never without a blinding. The membrane needs to be mechanically attached to something otherwise it will be ripped off the wall when you pour your concrete. Even the technical data for the PMH 3040 you have mentioned requires mechanical fastening on vertical planes. You can't mechnically fasten into soil.
When we do A+ we generally shotcrete the wall, trowel it flat, apply the membrane with mechanical fastenings and washers using a Hilti gun, detail over those fastenings and at junctions etc. then formwork, then detail and starter bars in the blinding layer and then shotcrete. I would never install a blindside system up against soil
How’s that indoor swimming pool coming along?
I'd be doing better if I can source a membrane I trust.🤣