I must have watched hundreds of hot air SMT reflows. This is the first one I've ever seen somebody use a Fluke 87V temperature probe to monitor the board temperature. So simple, but genius!! Learn something new everyday. 😁
I was pinching myself, because my Fluke 179 multimeter already came with a temperature probe. I can try adding this temperature probe method *today*. ＼(＾O＾)／
Thanks! I very seldom find myself really being a fan of a company. But being that my shop is full of your boxes. And you have always been great at shipping, accurate orders, ship small and large orders just the same, low shipping prices, ect. You are a great company.
Thanks! this filled in a number of holes in my spotty knowledge about doing hot air rework. Things that were glossed over by pretty much everything else I'd found in the past.
Great tutorial! I've managed to solder qfn for prototypes using a heat gun and a solder paste (the paste appears to have a lower melting point than a regular soldering tin). I've applied the solder paste on pads, placed the ic on top of it, and then heated it from the bottom from about 1-2 inches. The heat gun must be on a decently low power to prevent burning the pcb (literally burning it), and there must be no components on the bottom side because they will be blown away. Of course the pcb will be hot, so it's a good idea to make some simple holder.
This is definitely the better approach, as it not only allows the reflow process to be monitored better, but also means that less high temperatures are required for it.
SOMETIMES if you put enough flux on the bottom of the part and the board you could apply solder to the board and it will flow via surface tension under the part and stick to the bottom pads. That's one way to solder QFN parts with a soldering iron. YMMV ALOT with this one!
If your part is not fresh out of packaging and has been sitting around - tin the pads on the part too !!, This will increase the chance that all pads make contact with the board. You can thank me later. If you do this for a living you don't need this or temp probe because you bust the temp to 400C and know that the part will be just fine :-)
it's possible to solder by hand except for the pad underneath. if your ic does nod draw a lot power it might be fine to just ignore the pad and it should still work. I soldered for example cp2102 usb uart chips by hand and they worked great.
small tip use a hollow point tip for the small pads. Also with the via's take a hig termal iron. And if your lucky the via's and pad should connect with solder
I replaced my first smd like component yesterday, a bunch of burned out mosfets on the back of a drone flight controller. Was a lot easier than I thought but putting the right amount of solder paste on the board with enough flux to sit the component in the right place was hard, I had a donor board that I was stealing components from and it was a good job I did because I ended up having to redo a couple of mosfets cause they burned themselves out the second power was reapplied. I don't have multimeter probes that are fine enough to test the mosfet pins. So....accidents happened :)
Excellent tutorial. Can't wait to try it myself. Perhaps there is a practice kit I can buy. I bought a budget hot air gun that works well but does not have an air flow adjustment. I am frustrated that I did not know enough to make sure it had this feature.
Thanks! You can use the gerbers from the board I made here (github.com/ShawnHymel/ldo-power-board) or you can buy a practice kit like this one: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/ST0001/5978217 (it only has 1 QFN part, though)
Great Vid, especially the slow temp warming before hitting with enough to melt and make connections . I about to try a tiny 1285A reg chip which is only a couple of mm's so pretty small. should i use same tech and temps and time? i worry about overheat insides of chip but have a few spare. Never soldered a chip this small but it makes 3.3 and 5v and about 21 pins and central earth so have to dab solder on that too. Should be fun!!
it'd be cool to use a thermal camera instead! expensive as hell tho I think I killed my STM32 with excessive heat tho D: or maybe the pcb has a problem HMM
I can do that with a soldering iron. EAsy! Recently i did some much more difficult metal can transistors. Not easy! But pulled it off. Take some solder wick and load it up with some solder or use used wick and add a bit. Add solder balls (by tinning the pads) to the underside but not too big, use flux, add plenty of flux above and beneath the component. Now with the component placed well you can heat the wick with the soldering iron while holding it with tweezers. The tricky part is removing the wick without knocking the component about. Enjoy!
@@edwardrogers-wright1604 It can be done but it's better to use preheating and the hot air station with cleaned pads and flux. protect surrounding components with foil or foil tape. TBH the technique with the soldering iron works but might not be ideal. If you keep the heat there too long it can melt the adhesive that holds the metal can part down. Only try if you don't have a hot air station and want to give it a go. Basically you just load up some solder wick with some solder and hold it on the transistor top for just long enough for the pads to melt then your done. Might take a few attempts and it's a bit fiddly I might have used a microscope type viewer.
I ordered some components and almost Immediately i needed to add another component. They said they couldn't do this (shortly after my original order) and suggested I had to make another order (And pay a huge 26$ shipping fee). Terrible customer service. I suggest you work on this before posting videos!
I've purchased parts for prototype products for years from them. Generally we'd blast an order in before their closing time and expect a.m. delivery. Once the wheels are in motion they are hard to stop. I wouldn't fault customer service for this. A company with a somewhat slower pace may be in a better position to help.
Not so impressed with the soldering job on the small parts. Perhaps get a navy vet with 2m quals. Also, while Zephyrtronics system seem expensive, you really should be using this grade of equipment for the pro audience and the bottom feeder for the one off hobbiest. You would also have better results and fewer steps with a good solder paste.
My friend, get rid of that rubbish iron and rubbish hot air. You have a room filled with Keysight and Fluke, you can afford a proper iron and a proper hot air. A Miniware TS80P iron (and a bent round tip for doing this kind of fine works, preferably also a knife tip for general purpose) with a Miniware MHP30 preheater and a Quick 957DW hot air can do wonderful things, even on some rather large boards like computer motherboards, all for less than $400. Also for the sake of love, treat yourself with a pair of Fluke TL910 probes.
I must have watched hundreds of hot air SMT reflows. This is the first one I've ever seen somebody use a Fluke 87V temperature probe to monitor the board temperature. So simple, but genius!! Learn something new everyday. 😁
Not the board temperature, though. Ambient temperature.
I was pinching myself, because my Fluke 179 multimeter already came with a temperature probe. I can try adding this temperature probe method *today*. ＼(＾O＾)／
Thanks! I very seldom find myself really being a fan of a company. But being that my shop is full of your boxes. And you have always been great at shipping, accurate orders, ship small and large orders just the same, low shipping prices, ect. You are a great company.
Thanks! this filled in a number of holes in my spotty knowledge about doing hot air rework. Things that were glossed over by pretty much everything else I'd found in the past.
Great tutorial! I've managed to solder qfn for prototypes using a heat gun and a solder paste (the paste appears to have a lower melting point than a regular soldering tin). I've applied the solder paste on pads, placed the ic on top of it, and then heated it from the bottom from about 1-2 inches. The heat gun must be on a decently low power to prevent burning the pcb (literally burning it), and there must be no components on the bottom side because they will be blown away. Of course the pcb will be hot, so it's a good idea to make some simple holder.
This is definitely the better approach, as it not only allows the reflow process to be monitored better, but also means that less high temperatures are required for it.
SOMETIMES if you put enough flux on the bottom of the part and the board you could apply solder to the board and it will flow via surface tension under the part and stick to the bottom pads. That's one way to solder QFN parts with a soldering iron. YMMV ALOT with this one!
'Sometimes' is not good enough.
If your part is not fresh out of packaging and has been sitting around - tin the pads on the part too !!, This will increase the chance that all pads make contact with the board. You can thank me later. If you do this for a living you don't need this or temp probe because you bust the temp to 400C and know that the part will be just fine :-)
Good tip, thank you!
This is a very good tip. I use very fine sandy paper to lightly rub the pads before tinning. I also never use lead-free solder ...
Very helpful, straight forward tips camera angle not to bad. looking forward to next one.
thx, nice video. going to try my first SMD component changes on my DAC, this is very helpful.
Thanks for sharing because I had asumed that QFN parts could just not be soldered by hand without expensive equipment.
it's possible to solder by hand except for the pad underneath. if your ic does nod draw a lot power it might be fine to just ignore the pad and it should still work. I soldered for example cp2102 usb uart chips by hand and they worked great.
small tip use a hollow point tip for the small pads. Also with the via's take a hig termal iron. And if your lucky the via's and pad should connect with solder
I replaced my first smd like component yesterday, a bunch of burned out mosfets on the back of a drone flight controller. Was a lot easier than I thought but putting the right amount of solder paste on the board with enough flux to sit the component in the right place was hard, I had a donor board that I was stealing components from and it was a good job I did because I ended up having to redo a couple of mosfets cause they burned themselves out the second power was reapplied. I don't have multimeter probes that are fine enough to test the mosfet pins. So....accidents happened :)
nice tie buddy !
Great tutorial. Why did you use solid solder instead of solder paste? Surely that would be easier to use?
Thanks a lot, this is much appreciated
why not use solder paste?
Excellent tutorial. Can't wait to try it myself. Perhaps there is a practice kit I can buy. I bought a budget hot air gun that works well but does not have an air flow adjustment. I am frustrated that I did not know enough to make sure it had this feature.
Thanks! You can use the gerbers from the board I made here (github.com/ShawnHymel/ldo-power-board) or you can buy a practice kit like this one: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/ST0001/5978217 (it only has 1 QFN part, though)
Great Vid, especially the slow temp warming before hitting with enough to melt and make connections .
I about to try a tiny 1285A reg chip which is only a couple of mm's so pretty small. should i use same tech and temps and time? i worry about overheat insides of chip but have a few spare. Never soldered a chip this small but it makes 3.3 and 5v and about 21 pins and central earth so have to dab solder on that too. Should be fun!!
can you demonstrate QFN-15?
What is the size of the solder wire at 5:18 ? Thanks in advance
cool stuff
where can I get QFN-15 stencils ?
it'd be cool to use a thermal camera instead! expensive as hell tho
I think I killed my STM32 with excessive heat tho D: or maybe the pcb has a problem HMM
Holy shit ! Crazy
I didn't know Clark Kent teaches electronics
Wonder what luis rossman thinks
@@Kevin-mp5of Rude. Might as well not comment at all tbh. Like for real whats your problem?
@@Kevin-mp5of Wow okay....
@@Kevin-mp5of Stop harassing me. I'll do what I want.
Who's Luis Rossman?
675 Cornelius Locks
I can do that with a soldering iron. EAsy! Recently i did some much more difficult metal can transistors. Not easy! But pulled it off. Take some solder wick and load it up with some solder or use used wick and add a bit. Add solder balls (by tinning the pads) to the underside but not too big, use flux, add plenty of flux above and beneath the component. Now with the component placed well you can heat the wick with the soldering iron while holding it with tweezers. The tricky part is removing the wick without knocking the component about. Enjoy!
Very interesting but difficult to visualize! Will need a video demonstration ...
@@edwardrogers-wright1604 It can be done but it's better to use preheating and the hot air station with cleaned pads and flux. protect surrounding components with foil or foil tape. TBH the technique with the soldering iron works but might not be ideal. If you keep the heat there too long it can melt the adhesive that holds the metal can part down. Only try if you don't have a hot air station and want to give it a go. Basically you just load up some solder wick with some solder and hold it on the transistor top for just long enough for the pads to melt then your done. Might take a few attempts and it's a bit fiddly I might have used a microscope type viewer.
Magnolia Ridge
I'd rather make a custom reflow station:
ua-cam.com/video/39ij7f1OWtc/v-deo.html
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The problem is your hand.
Love your videos and content. I'm leaving UA-cam due to censorship. Hence, unsubscribed.
I ordered some components and almost Immediately i needed to add another
component. They said they couldn't do this (shortly after my original
order) and suggested I had to make another order (And pay a huge 26$
shipping fee). Terrible customer service. I suggest you work on this before posting videos!
I've purchased parts for prototype products for years from them. Generally we'd blast an order in before their closing time and expect a.m. delivery. Once the wheels are in motion they are hard to stop. I wouldn't fault customer service for this. A company with a somewhat slower pace may be in a better position to help.
Not so impressed with the soldering job on the small parts. Perhaps get a navy vet with 2m quals. Also, while Zephyrtronics system seem expensive, you really should be using this grade of equipment for the pro audience and the bottom feeder for the one off hobbiest. You would also have better results and fewer steps with a good solder paste.
My friend, get rid of that rubbish iron and rubbish hot air. You have a room filled with Keysight and Fluke, you can afford a proper iron and a proper hot air. A Miniware TS80P iron (and a bent round tip for doing this kind of fine works, preferably also a knife tip for general purpose) with a Miniware MHP30 preheater and a Quick 957DW hot air can do wonderful things, even on some rather large boards like computer motherboards, all for less than $400. Also for the sake of love, treat yourself with a pair of Fluke TL910 probes.