It's clear you're not a pro (we have set methods common to us all but you do things a little differently) but having said, that, you are most definitely a natural! With over 33 years experience of carpentry and joinery behind me, I am utterly impressed and have learned from you! Thank you!
Your video was clearly what I was looking for as I am getting to within 90 days of low pitch roof construction of private residence..here in s.central fla..vapor barrier explained..I am now going to spend the necessary $ at home depot for you much appreciated works you presented
Thank you! I am looking forward to watching more of this series in preparation for redoing my flat roof. Nearly 50, female, btw. I appreciate your tips on how to do things efficiently as a solo worker.
I’m. 62 female stated building the shed/garden room when my husband died just to prove to myself it’s all possible. Best investment was a block and tackle, I have both a rope one and a chain one. Both were around the £100 mark. New but as with all things you may be able to find the engine block one second hand . The other investment is a sheet carrier, it a trolly for sheet material, I found that it’s not so much strength that holds me back but my height and therefore reach, lifting sheet a is possible but carrying it even with Ali’s rope trick was impossible as I didn’t have a long enough body! Good luck Gabrielle, go for it girl.
I'm a big fan of Keith's been watching him a bit now, but it as also been very interested in your video's too Ali can't wait to see the next video of the build, Oh and course Keith's video's as well you young guy's make it really interesting for us pensioner's take care now.
Nice to see someone doing things well without adding all the jargon, great explanation of your method, good method too, this is how I do a warm flat roof also.
I have just discovered this series of videos and you (Ali) should be very proud of what you have achieved. A great, simple to understand and realistic set of videos. Well done 👍
You may want to consider a suggestion. To save the problem with matching up the board size with the joist spacing I use tongue and groove OSB. It gives a stronger structure even If a space it 2mm to allow for thermal expansion.
Great video 👍🏻 only thing I would say is if you want to use GRP you want to use a 18mm P5 t&g flooring board as the top layer. 22mm if it’s a balcony. This eliminates the need for bandaging the osb boards on the joints prior to laying the chop strand matt. I would also use a 225mm double thread screw so they countersink into the boards. It’s nice to see people take care installing the vapour barrier too as this sometimes gets overlooked on sites. Keep up the good work Ali
Great advice here and I agree (I think I mention going with T&G for the roof in Part 16), i just did the best I could at the time with the knowledge I had. I think have thermal break helix screws would have been a good idea too. What thickness of OSB would you recommend for joists spaced 600mm apart - 22mm or will 18mm still suffice if it's not designed to be walked on after installation?
@@AliDymock if the area was used for any foot traffic it should be 22mm. A OSB board has a larger span of 600mm for joist where the P5 is 450mm. Personally I always do joists at 400mm centres anyway as it’s more suitable for plaster boarding on the inside ceiling and strengthening the roof to avoid the joists sagging over time causing pooling on the roof. Doing a warm roof is always a stronger option anyway so span gaps do not matter as much on the top layer providing the sub deck has been installed to the correctly to board specifications. When installing P5 boards for GRP you install them upside on the top layer. This makes the lower joint tight but leaves a 1-2mm gap on the top side allowing GRP resin to penetrate the joint to locking the boards together and creating a great key for the roof. Like I said before keep up the good work your videos are very helpful to people who may need help installing these roofs the right way. I see way to many times on what happens to poorly installed or incorrectly insulated roofs ! It’s very frustrating and costly to the customers. Thanks for taking the time to make the vids. 😁
Excellent - nice to have a variety of viewers! It's a good idea, once the project is done I'll do another playlist on setting up the workshop. I'm definitely thinking along the lines of french cleats for a lot of my tools :)
Everything you have done in your videos I have done plenty of times before. Some I do slightly differently but what I found to be the best thing you did and something I haven't seen elsewhere, was to list plenty of UK regs and also the differences in styles or techniques. I have actually given your videos to a couple of clients and told them to watch as you explain this stuff in a easy to understand format and it saves me going through it with them :) It is also interesting to see your results with minimum / cheap tools rather than having the entire tool shop like the Americans tend to have. I look forward to seeing it finished although I don wonder what you will tackle (or have already tackled) next?
Wow that's great, I hope it's of use to your clients. I guess the most 'useful' video to look at options is Part 9. There's so many methods of building a garden room but I think the majority of my build will suit a novice. It's hard to know which order to do things but you'll find out soon enough which is the next task I took on 😉
You should deserve a medal for this amazing works. Surely this knowledge and experience after years of headaches of fixing idiotic roofers who doesn’t have a clue! Well done and keep the hard work
Ali, i'm 28. Coming to the end of a year of a full house renovation top to bottom and finally getting to move my workshop to the house. Currently have a very old and tired prefab garage that i'm replacing the asbestos roof with a full timber flat roof and it's been a bit of an engineering feat. I'm about to kick off and watching this series if quick succession has really helped reaffirm the plan I have is both correct (and safe) as well as realistic so I just wanted to drop you a quick thank you and say great work on both the build and the videos.
I've just watched the series up to here Ali, I am so impressed. It's not just clips of you sawing wood and hammering nails, it's you sharing your research on building regs, insulating tables, advice on lumber buying and much more. Not only that, your production... sound, camera and editing etc is top notch. So I thought I would make this comment -I know you didn't make channel for the money, but rather to share you experience to help others and lets be frank it's always great to have an appreciative audience for feed back and advice. Anyway, the comment is this - Are you aware that Amazon is scouting for good quality videos (they already have a few UA-cam channels on Amazon Prime) such as your series? I don't know how much of a return you'll get monitory wise, but if you get a wider audience, whats the harm? Make a few enquires, mean while, I'm off to join Ep 11, again, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for your comments Gordon! I've tried to make the videos as good as I can but still a bit embarrassed by the earlier videos heheh. I highly doubt Amazon Prime would want this series but hey, I'll check it out! Thanks for the tip 👍
I vapour barriered across the roof joists before laying the sub deck, so I could glue the kingspan to the sub deck, then used 18mm Osb t&g boards, again glued to the insulation. So no need for the long screws or thermal bridge.
Keep up the videos ali! Im doing a slight extension and new roof to my garage next month but will involve stud walls and 9x2 roofing so this has helped!
nice vid! just to point out never cut the vapour barrier like you did. You must overlap over the insulation. Where you had the wood on top and the insulation in the middle you should of overlapped the wood back onto the insulation and taped it on. Then put in osb on top. Then around the edge put in the membrane if needed or upvc.
Hi Ali. Can you explain your design at one point please? At point 5:53/9:44 in your No10 Video (warm Roof)You appear to have covered the roof frame joist edge overhang (to cover the green vapour barrier) with tanalised faciaboard but this has created a step as it's not flush with the insulation wood frame above. You then covered the edge with Housewrap. However at the time 6:45 the entire facia edge all looks flat and flush. Can you explain why you put initial faciaboard on (if you did) when you have also applied the day grey facia board over this aswell. Thanks again. Darren
I don’t normally comment on things but thanks for all the help I’m thinking of building one for the kids and you’ve got the best videos I’ve found when’s the rest coming 👍🏼
It is only a warm roof if there is no decking on top of the insulation. The waterproofing membrane must be directly on top of the insulation, if not the decking is cold and not warm. Even some building inspectors don't know this.
another informative video. I have to admit i didn’t really understand youtube until i started watching your channel. I was of the opinion that it was all about funny animals, people watching people play video games or kids opening stuff. This series has been really informative, along with some of the other channels you recommended. thank you for the series. On the back of them, like one of the other posts, my foundation blocks are down and timber floor about to be constructed. The remaining question. warm or cold roof. Just can’t decide. Thanks Ali
haha I guess you'd be right but there's a plethora of other stuff out there. You might like April Wilkerson's channel-she's recently done a series on building a humungous workshop in Texas. Warm/cold roof is a toughy, you'll need to decide before you start the walls though!
Thanks for another great video. We are building a cabin in our garden (for us to live in whilst we do our house renovation) and trying to do as much ourselves. We have got a builder to do the main construction. The builder has done a cold roof, but not put OSB boards on top. He has a membrane directly above the joists (where the insulation will be), the battens, then our metal roofing will go on top of that. Im a little confused as I thought you would always have boards on top of the roof, but I guess this way you solve the issue of ventilation/allowing vapour to escape? For peace of mind can you confirm you dont need OSB boards on top? Thanks so much!
Excellent series of videos mate hats off to you, I'm currently having a Buy v's Build debate with myself and this gives me a lot of food for thought :)
It's a tough choice for sure. I would say that if you enjoy the thought of building your own and generally doing DIY/using your hands then take it on, you'll get a better end product. If you value your time for other pursuits and have the money go for the buy. Hopefully these videos tell you all you need to know to build or ask the right questions if buying 👍
@@AliDymock I love the idea of building one and wish I'd started this process at the beginning of lockdown, hindsight is a wonderful thing. I don't think I could build one cheaper than I can buy one bizarrely and that's like for like spec wise, I'd want to upgrade a few things so all adds up 😏
Just been watching video where you are putting on the top osb. Is it necessary to you the long nails if you are laying/finishing with rubber roofing. Cheers
@@G1V3Y Haha enjoy. You can take solace that they took a lot lot longer to make than they do to watch! I'm up to Part 16 and then there are a couple of 'extra' ones clarifying some topics I saw people having problems with :)
Ali Dymock That’s good to know that your dedicated and still putting in the hard work and effort and putting these so far great videos out and I’m a younger viewer only 16 so I’ll need to wait a while before I’m able to build something like this on my own sadly can’t wait for the day I could build something like this. And sorry for any spelling mistakes and grammar I’m dyslexic so isn’t the best
@@G1V3Y I've always thought that for a teenager to gain their own space and then have somewhere to live in their early 20s when saving for a house deposit, a garden room in your parents' house is ideal
Keith sent me here too - had a great time watching the back-episodes and always looking forward to the next. Great work, especially since you're doing most of it solo.
awesome Ali! Suggestion for your channel.. there’s so many that cover projects that are unique and creative but be great to see practical projects in the house.. just a thought. Great work.. tough foundation dig on mine.. found an out building under the soil at the back of my garden.. so getting to the subsoil has been a right pain but now it’s mortaring the blocks!
Yeh I think that will be the general direction of the channel, creating things and doing projects that I need doing whether that's furniture or renovating. Thanks for the idea. Cool! Just think-it's a great workout and you're being productive at the same time! Worth taking your time over the blocks, probably the most important part of the project!
Another incredibly informative episode - I'm gripped :-) If I'm ever lucky enough to take on a project like this I'll be using this series as my step by step guide. Thanks for sharing such valuable knowledge and know how :-)
Awesome build ! Great video ! Tnxs for sharing ! I've almost finished my build and while finishing the roof I picked up some ideas of your construction.
Looking good Ali. Coming along very nicely. Just one thing though. Why didn't you use tongue and groove OSB on the roof deck on top of the PIR, especially with a EPDM? You should have used T&G on the sub-deck with glued T&G and tyvek underneath. Then PU Glued the PIR insulation down to the sub-deck. Then done the same with the osb sarking covering the PIR insulation so no fixings needed. Doing that would eliminate the unsupported edges and prevent movement meaning its less likely to puncture the EPDM. Now when you walk on the roof with the membrane the Insulation will compress a little and the nail heads will pop up a little and pierce the EPDM. BTW i'm not trying to put you down as so to speak as i think this little series is great and very informative. Maybe you have a good reason for what you've done.
Nah, it's cool, we all learn from the comments. T+G was a little hard to find around my area but I agree it would have been nice for the top deck but not a necessity. As for the tyvek under the sub deck- you must mean the vapour barrier? I've never seen the VB under the deck. You can get liquid VBs (at vast expense) that are spread over the sub deck and yes you're right that the insulation can be glued down on to that, but it would be pointless to glue on to a polythene VB, but yes, the top deck can be glued rather than mechanically fixing with slab nails. There's definitely no risk of the EPDM puncturing though-PIR insulation doesn't compress at all when it has sheet material over it. I've walked all over it and the slab nails are in the exact same position as they were in this vid. Of course, there's more than one way to skin a cat!
Thanks for much useful advice! I'm wondering about finishing my roof with corrugated iron or similar - I'm guessing I could waterproof the top deck with a membrane of some kind and then fasten the corrugated iron to it - would that work?
Ali - quick question for you. At 5:50 in this video why is it that these pieces of timber aren't flush? The top one looks like the 2x4 boundary holding the PIR in place, but what is the lower timer? Is it the fascia board? Thanks!
Hmm not 100% sure what you’re getting at but this is a shot of the left side so the bottom timber is the ‘timber fascia’ on the side overhang, then OSB sub deck above, then vapour barrier then timber border around the insulation, upon which the top deck would attach. Does that make sense?
That might explain something you’ve left three mil gap for expansion where was I was thinking it was better to get them completely tighter so as not to put any pressure on the felt as regards covering a gap?
I have seen example of where the OSB expands and then creates a ridge which you don't want. If I were doing it again i would use tongue and groove osb that creates a tight seam but supposedly also allows for movement. That's your best bet. Plus they're smaller sheets so easier to lift up on the roof!
Love watching your vids. They're a great source of knowledge and inspiration. Did you leave a 3mm gap for the OSB board on the roof (both the 18mm & 11mm)? Seems counter intuitive to leave gaps when you want something water tight.
Hi Ali been watching your videos because I’m planning on doing something similar giving me inspiration mate well done. Quick question what size timber did you use and what length for the roof? Kind regards chris
Iv just fitted boards to my roof ready for epdm rubber roof but with the 3mm gasps between boards is there a sealer or exterior caulk for the gaps which prevents water getting in while I have not fitted rubber roof? Last question if you don’t mind is, Iv used plywood not osb an as it’s been a bit damp lately can you get away with using the rubber adhesive on damp ish wood? Thanks
Great series. Im taking the plunge myself. Quick q - in your design video it says you'll use plywood, but you went for OSB. Did you work out that OSB was strong enough etc?
What is the thinnest insulation you could get away with and it still keep the dew point above where it needs to be? I'm building a garden room that has to be 2.5m max so I want to go as low profile as possible. Thanks
I think even 25mm will do quite a bit, 50mm is a nice depth for warmth. If you're really struggling with height I'd go with a cold roof and go thick - 100mm+
@@AliDymock Thank you for taking the time to reply, it's most appreciated. I can get away with 50mm yes that would be okay. Yes the cold roof option is still on the table I just don't want to mess it up by not having sufficient ventilation and the warm roof seems a bit more foolproof ha. Thanks again.
@@GoExperimental the ventilation is pretty easy, depending on what you are planning, I’ve just done a cold roof on a 3x5m workshop, left overhangs on all four sides, although really front to back is the most important. I then clad the soffits of the overhangs with recycled pallet wood (although you could use any sort of wood) and left a couple of mm between them to allow airflow above the insulation :) Good luck with your project
Hi im using 8x4 osb3 18mm and its not tongue and grooved, is it wise to put a 3mm spacing between boards? I have fitted noggins so all edges are supported , also is it ok to add a polyurethane d4 glue to my expansion gaps if i decide to do a2-3mm gap, thanks and a great video
great info! I got a Spanish style flat roof pitched towards one direction with the exterior wall that comes up about 2 feet past the roof all around (except for the runoff end). How would you warm roof insulate that ?
Cheers. In retrospect I reckon it could have been a bit better but I'm pretty happy with it. Yup, for an extension that seems to be the norm - usually bang a 25mm board on top of a 100mm one it seems. For a non b regs garden room - 100mm seems to be more than good enough. Law of diminishing returns means the cost for the extra 20/25mm doesn't get you an awful lot extra thermal resistance, plus adds another 25mm to the height!
@@postman445 The law of diminishing returns comes in to play. Between 80 and 100mm a difference of 0.04W/m2.K but between 100 and 120mm 0.03W/m2.K. It's very toasty in winter and more than enough for a garden room.
@@postman445 The U value is proportional to the thickness of insulation you use as well as thickness of the decking material; plus the type of insulation material; as they all differ in their respective Lamda value or resistivity! But it would a lot less than having 120mm of insulation!
Ali thank you ! Your videos have given me the confidence to build my own garden office. I'm currently well into my project and each of your clips have been an invaluable source of reference to guide me throughout. When is part 11 being posted ?????
Hi Ali first off love all these videos very informative and makes life so much easier. Only thing I'm struggling with is your roof as I'm max 2.5 height i still want warm roof so I'm building direct on concrete to save floor space. Could you tell me what you roof is in height i.e. so i can minus that from the 2.5m to know what shed height i need in studs Thanks
Hi Ben, glad you have found them useful. Mine was 350mm in total from memory, I think it's in Part 9 that I show the full build up and height BUT that's just mine, with the amount of insulation I used with 9x2 joists to suit my span. In my vid about how I'd construct a cold roof I make the point that you can reduce the insulation to, say, 50mm and it will still be really warm if you keep your VB nicely intact. Second I reckon I could have reduced my joists to maybe 2x8s or 2x7s and gotten away with it as the span tables are conservative. Alternatively you could situate your joists on closer centres than mine or possibly double them up and use thinner ones than the span tables suggest. Obviously these weren't of concern to me because I had 3 metres to play with rather than the 2.5 PD height within 2m of a boundary.
Great videos and really useful presentation, many thanks. One thing I'm not clear about, though - if I were to leave the roof joists exposed internally with ceiling, deck etc above them, how are the gaps between each joist above front and back walls filled in? Have I missed something obvious?
There's a small bit in Part 12 where I show this-essentially rectangle pieces of PIR insulation inserted above the top plate, between the joists, spray foamed around the edges 👍
Between the roof joists you mean? I cut rectangles of insulation and installed between the joists, it's in Part 12. This doesn't help thermal bridging in the walls though, but the room is super cozy.
It does mean it's not as tight as it would be under the joists as I can't do a vapour barrier to cover my joists as they cross the walls but as far as stopping moisture getting into the roof, it's in the right place for a warm roof.
One tip is to use stainless steel screws on top. I built a roof a few years back where the water got in. I didn’t notice until much later and all the screws rusted out and were a nightmare to remove
I don't think it really matters. The point of it is to be on the warm side of the insulation to stop water vapour moving into the insulation and condensing on the colder side. You can go without the OSB sub deck - joists>vapour barrier>insulation>OSB> roof finish which saves some money but loses some structural integrity of course
I came across you from Keith, so its nice to hear both you complement each other. Watching your this enormous garden house, I am kinda fighting how I can convert our *_shed_* to my *_studio_* as its fairly big in size. I am also *_disabled_* , so getting it done such a massive scale I wouldn't be even do the floor. Any *_ tips on_* this please how I can convert my Garden Shed to my mini workshop as well as studio for my channel. Have a look at my channel, and please let me know how I can improve to get noticed, as I probably am trying too hard for fineness. I live in Suffolk, perhaps close to *_Keith_* , unless you are closer if I knew where you live (County)... Anyhow, please look after yourself and each other & Stay Safe. I believe " *_Our World_* is a *_Shared Experience_* ." Cheers...
I definitely think you can do something with your shed to make it a bit cosier for a workshop even being disabled. I would look at installing insulation on the inside between the studs (even if they're only 2 or 3 inches thick) and then put ply or OSB over them so you can attach your tools to the wall. Then get an electrician in to add lights and sockets and a little heater and you'll be ready to go! :)
you mentioned as you built within 1m of boundry using a timber frame that building controlled wouldnt be need if you used a non combaustable material could you cover that more please
From what I understand the regulations call for cladding that has a Class 0 fire rating which I think has been mentioned in a previous video. This can be achieved by using intumescent coatings on regular wooden cladding such as ship lap. It tends to be a bit pricey but not too bad as long as only external cladding is treated. Not too sure how the rubber roof fairs in this but I'm sure Ali did plenty of research in this respect.
It's clear you're not a pro (we have set methods common to us all but you do things a little differently) but having said, that, you are most definitely a natural! With over 33 years experience of carpentry and joinery behind me, I am utterly impressed and have learned from you! Thank you!
I'm 33 female from sunny Florida , USA. Love your stuff!!!
Your video was clearly what I was looking for as I am getting to within 90 days of low pitch roof construction of private residence..here in s.central fla..vapor barrier explained..I am now going to spend the necessary $ at home depot for you much appreciated works you presented
Thank you! I am looking forward to watching more of this series in preparation for redoing my flat roof. Nearly 50, female, btw. I appreciate your tips on how to do things efficiently as a solo worker.
You can do it Gabrielle!
I’m. 62 female stated building the shed/garden room when my husband died just to prove to myself it’s all possible. Best investment was a block and tackle, I have both a rope one and a chain one. Both were around the £100 mark. New but as with all things you may be able to find the engine block one second hand . The other investment is a sheet carrier, it a trolly for sheet material, I found that it’s not so much strength that holds me back but my height and therefore reach, lifting sheet a is possible but carrying it even with Ali’s rope trick was impossible as I didn’t have a long enough body! Good luck Gabrielle, go for it girl.
Rag and Bone recommended you and I watched all of your workshop videos over 2 days and was left hanging for more! Thumbs up from America.
Thanks America ;)
I don't post as regularly as other channels but hopefully will get better once this series is complete.
I'm a big fan of Keith's been watching him a bit now, but it as also been very interested in your video's too Ali can't wait to see the next video of the build, Oh and course Keith's video's as well you young guy's make it really interesting for us pensioner's take care now.
Cheers Brian! Glad you're enjoying it!
Bad ass video log, exactly what you want and occasional discount and tips not to repeat errors for humanity, well done
Cheers mate, I'm an extension builder putting my hand to a warm roof for the first time, video gave me everything I needed to know 👍
This video series is amazing Ali thanks for sharing!
Insulate the edges before OSB work I always find is best practice. good to see its not just any old plastic you are slapping down there.
I subbed after finding you through my efforts of soundproofing. You gave me the confidence to undertake the project! Thanks!
Nice to see someone doing things well without adding all the jargon, great explanation of your method, good method too, this is how I do a warm flat roof also.
I have just discovered this series of videos and you (Ali) should be very proud of what you have achieved. A great, simple to understand and realistic set of videos. Well done 👍
You may want to consider a suggestion. To save the problem with matching up the board size with the joist spacing I use tongue and groove OSB. It gives a stronger structure even If a space it 2mm to allow for thermal expansion.
Yup, definitely the way to go, I think I make that revision in Part 16.
I need to do a flat roof on a block extension great video
Ola amigo great content I’m about to attempt doing a a gym in my garden and I start learn a lot from you
I will be doing my self
Go for it!
Surprisingly the UK sets the standard and all others follow suit. I learnt this at college whilst doing plumbing.
Great video 👍🏻 only thing I would say is if you want to use GRP you want to use a 18mm P5 t&g flooring board as the top layer. 22mm if it’s a balcony. This eliminates the need for bandaging the osb boards on the joints prior to laying the chop strand matt. I would also use a 225mm double thread screw so they countersink into the boards.
It’s nice to see people take care installing the vapour barrier too as this sometimes gets overlooked on sites.
Keep up the good work Ali
Great advice here and I agree (I think I mention going with T&G for the roof in Part 16), i just did the best I could at the time with the knowledge I had. I think have thermal break helix screws would have been a good idea too.
What thickness of OSB would you recommend for joists spaced 600mm apart - 22mm or will 18mm still suffice if it's not designed to be walked on after installation?
@@AliDymock if the area was used for any foot traffic it should be 22mm. A OSB board has a larger span of 600mm for joist where the P5 is 450mm. Personally I always do joists at 400mm centres anyway as it’s more suitable for plaster boarding on the inside ceiling and strengthening the roof to avoid the joists sagging over time causing pooling on the roof.
Doing a warm roof is always a stronger option anyway so span gaps do not matter as much on the top layer providing the sub deck has been installed to the correctly to board specifications.
When installing P5 boards for GRP you install them upside on the top layer. This makes the lower joint tight but leaves a 1-2mm gap on the top side allowing GRP resin to penetrate the joint to locking the boards together and creating a great key for the roof.
Like I said before keep up the good work your videos are very helpful to people who may need help installing these roofs the right way. I see way to many times on what happens to poorly installed or incorrectly insulated roofs ! It’s very frustrating and costly to the customers.
Thanks for taking the time to make the vids. 😁
You don’t need T&G if you bandage your joints. Again what a way to waste money
Good work. As for fixing the 11mm osb and avoiding thermal break. You can use thermal sleeved fixings.
Good advice, I didn't know they existed at the time.
Thanks for the latest update Ali. looking forward to seeing the next episodes and the eventual woodworking projects. Glad to see the new boots!
Haha the boots were well needed. Got them for my birthday. I'm looking forward to doing some proper woodworking too!
Fine business. My garden room blocks for the base are in and my subframe is going down tomorrow.
Good stuff, that's what I like to hear!
For the numbers I am a 72 year old woman from mex . I love your channel hop to see how you fix it up inside the placing of the woodworking tools etc.
Excellent - nice to have a variety of viewers! It's a good idea, once the project is done I'll do another playlist on setting up the workshop. I'm definitely thinking along the lines of french cleats for a lot of my tools :)
Just have the concrete slab laid for my garden room, will be following your videos closely from this point
Everything you have done in your videos I have done plenty of times before. Some I do slightly differently but what I found to be the best thing you did and something I haven't seen elsewhere, was to list plenty of UK regs and also the differences in styles or techniques. I have actually given your videos to a couple of clients and told them to watch as you explain this stuff in a easy to understand format and it saves me going through it with them :) It is also interesting to see your results with minimum / cheap tools rather than having the entire tool shop like the Americans tend to have. I look forward to seeing it finished although I don wonder what you will tackle (or have already tackled) next?
Wow that's great, I hope it's of use to your clients. I guess the most 'useful' video to look at options is Part 9. There's so many methods of building a garden room but I think the majority of my build will suit a novice.
It's hard to know which order to do things but you'll find out soon enough which is the next task I took on 😉
You should deserve a medal for this amazing works. Surely this knowledge and experience after years of headaches of fixing idiotic roofers who doesn’t have a clue! Well done and keep the hard work
heheh thanks!
Ali, i'm 28. Coming to the end of a year of a full house renovation top to bottom and finally getting to move my workshop to the house. Currently have a very old and tired prefab garage that i'm replacing the asbestos roof with a full timber flat roof and it's been a bit of an engineering feat. I'm about to kick off and watching this series if quick succession has really helped reaffirm the plan I have is both correct (and safe) as well as realistic so I just wanted to drop you a quick thank you and say great work on both the build and the videos.
Thank you, that's great to hear you were thinking along the same lines.
Very detailed and nicely presented
Watching this for some ideas fir reroofing my modelling shed 😊
Great video series.
Very good, detailed and informative video! Thanks a lot from Holland.
You're welcome, from England.
If I lived nearer I would have gladly helped you with the lifting as I always seem to work on my own so know how you feel.Tim
I've just watched the series up to here Ali, I am so impressed. It's not just clips of you sawing wood and hammering nails, it's you sharing your research on building regs, insulating tables, advice on lumber buying and much more. Not only that, your production... sound, camera and editing etc is top notch. So I thought I would make this comment -I know you didn't make channel for the money, but rather to share you experience to help others and lets be frank it's always great to have an appreciative audience for feed back and advice. Anyway, the comment is this - Are you aware that Amazon is scouting for good quality videos (they already have a few UA-cam channels on Amazon Prime) such as your series? I don't know how much of a return you'll get monitory wise, but if you get a wider audience, whats the harm? Make a few enquires, mean while, I'm off to join Ep 11, again, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for your comments Gordon! I've tried to make the videos as good as I can but still a bit embarrassed by the earlier videos heheh. I highly doubt Amazon Prime would want this series but hey, I'll check it out! Thanks for the tip 👍
👌
I vapour barriered across the roof joists before laying the sub deck, so I could glue the kingspan to the sub deck, then used 18mm Osb t&g boards, again glued to the insulation.
So no need for the long screws or thermal bridge.
Nice! What kind of glue did you use Lee?
@@AliDymock I used Illbruck CT704 contact adhesive
works well and good qualitiful shed building guild
Keep up the videos ali! Im doing a slight extension and new roof to my garage next month but will involve stud walls and 9x2 roofing so this has helped!
nice vid! just to point out never cut the vapour barrier like you did. You must overlap over the insulation. Where you had the wood on top and the insulation in the middle you should of overlapped the wood back onto the insulation and taped it on. Then put in osb on top. Then around the edge put in the membrane if needed or upvc.
Hi Ali. Can you explain your design at one point please? At point 5:53/9:44 in your No10 Video (warm Roof)You appear to have covered the roof frame joist edge overhang (to cover the green vapour barrier) with tanalised faciaboard but this has created a step as it's not flush with the insulation wood frame above.
You then covered the edge with Housewrap. However at the time 6:45 the entire facia edge all looks flat and flush. Can you explain why you put initial faciaboard on (if you did) when you have also applied the day grey facia board over this aswell. Thanks again. Darren
I don’t normally comment on things but thanks for all the help I’m thinking of building one for the kids and you’ve got the best videos I’ve found when’s the rest coming 👍🏼
Well thanks for making the exception this time, much appreciated. Lucky kids!
I'm just waiting on something before releasing Part 11.
Looking forward to seeing how you put in the windows.
That'll be Part 12 :)
It is only a warm roof if there is no decking on top of the insulation. The waterproofing membrane must be directly on top of the insulation, if not the decking is cold and not warm. Even some building inspectors don't know this.
another informative video.
I have to admit i didn’t really understand youtube until i started watching your channel. I was of the opinion that it was all about funny animals, people watching people play video games or kids opening stuff.
This series has been really informative, along with some of the other channels you recommended. thank you for the series.
On the back of them, like one of the other posts, my foundation blocks are down and timber floor about to be constructed.
The remaining question. warm or cold roof. Just can’t decide.
Thanks Ali
haha I guess you'd be right but there's a plethora of other stuff out there. You might like April Wilkerson's channel-she's recently done a series on building a humungous workshop in Texas.
Warm/cold roof is a toughy, you'll need to decide before you start the walls though!
Coming along very nicely and loved the top tip on carrying 8x4 sheets looking forward to watching part 11 another big thumbs up:)
Thanks for another great video. We are building a cabin in our garden (for us to live in whilst we do our house renovation) and trying to do as much ourselves. We have got a builder to do the main construction. The builder has done a cold roof, but not put OSB boards on top. He has a membrane directly above the joists (where the insulation will be), the battens, then our metal roofing will go on top of that. Im a little confused as I thought you would always have boards on top of the roof, but I guess this way you solve the issue of ventilation/allowing vapour to escape? For peace of mind can you confirm you dont need OSB boards on top? Thanks so much!
Loving the series - can’t wait for the next instalment. Thanks Ali
You're very welcome Kevin, glad you enjoyed them :)
Excellent series of videos mate hats off to you, I'm currently having a Buy v's Build debate with myself and this gives me a lot of food for thought :)
It's a tough choice for sure. I would say that if you enjoy the thought of building your own and generally doing DIY/using your hands then take it on, you'll get a better end product. If you value your time for other pursuits and have the money go for the buy. Hopefully these videos tell you all you need to know to build or ask the right questions if buying 👍
@@AliDymock I love the idea of building one and wish I'd started this process at the beginning of lockdown, hindsight is a wonderful thing. I don't think I could build one cheaper than I can buy one bizarrely and that's like for like spec wise, I'd want to upgrade a few things so all adds up 😏
Just been watching video where you are putting on the top osb. Is it necessary to you the long nails if you are laying/finishing with rubber roofing. Cheers
I know this was 2 years ago but just found your channel and you have gained a new sub 👍
Thanks Ben. 2 years old but still another few vids in the series to go heheh.
Ali Dymock just gonna binge watch them all as I have nothing else to do 😅
@@G1V3Y Haha enjoy. You can take solace that they took a lot lot longer to make than they do to watch! I'm up to Part 16 and then there are a couple of 'extra' ones clarifying some topics I saw people having problems with :)
Ali Dymock That’s good to know that your dedicated and still putting in the hard work and effort and putting these so far great videos out and I’m a younger viewer only 16 so I’ll need to wait a while before I’m able to build something like this on my own sadly can’t wait for the day I could build something like this. And sorry for any spelling mistakes and grammar I’m dyslexic so isn’t the best
@@G1V3Y I've always thought that for a teenager to gain their own space and then have somewhere to live in their early 20s when saving for a house deposit, a garden room in your parents' house is ideal
Brilliant video
Keith sent me here too - had a great time watching the back-episodes and always looking forward to the next. Great work, especially since you're doing most of it solo.
awesome Ali! Suggestion for your channel.. there’s so many that cover projects that are unique and creative but be great to see practical projects in the house.. just a thought. Great work.. tough foundation dig on mine.. found an out building under the soil at the back of my garden.. so getting to the subsoil has been a right pain but now it’s mortaring the blocks!
Yeh I think that will be the general direction of the channel, creating things and doing projects that I need doing whether that's furniture or renovating. Thanks for the idea.
Cool! Just think-it's a great workout and you're being productive at the same time! Worth taking your time over the blocks, probably the most important part of the project!
Great job Ali. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Cannot wait for your next video, using these as a template for building something smaller in my own back garden.
Great Video!! I love it!
Great series, really helped me in my build, thanks
Question, wouldn't you need some sort of vapour barrier for those areas you insulated above the side walls? where would all that moisture go?
good stuff bro! very informative . really enjoyed it the videos so far! :)
Another incredibly informative episode - I'm gripped :-)
If I'm ever lucky enough to take on a project like this I'll be using this series as my step by step guide. Thanks for sharing such valuable knowledge and know how :-)
:) Perhaps I’ll share some smaller projects when this is done. What would you like to see?
great job mate and thanks for sharing
and great video
Awesome build ! Great video ! Tnxs for sharing ! I've almost finished my build and while finishing the roof I picked up some ideas of your construction.
Finally!
Waiting for next part was worse than waiting for another episode of Game of Thrones!
Great job Ali
I know, I'm super slow! My plan is to finish this series before GRRM finishes The Winds Of Winter though! 😋
Amazing I have literallyonly just finished watching the previous video and was gutted that I had to wait for the next one. Brilliant!!
One word mate “fantastic “
Would sips panels be a better option for a warm roof ?
Looking good Ali. Coming along very nicely. Just one thing though. Why didn't you use tongue and groove OSB on the roof deck on top of the PIR, especially with a EPDM?
You should have used T&G on the sub-deck with glued T&G and tyvek underneath. Then PU Glued the PIR insulation down to the sub-deck. Then done the same with the osb sarking covering the PIR insulation so no fixings needed. Doing that would eliminate the unsupported edges and prevent movement meaning its less likely to puncture the EPDM. Now when you walk on the roof with the membrane the Insulation will compress a little and the nail heads will pop up a little and pierce the EPDM.
BTW i'm not trying to put you down as so to speak as i think this little series is great and very informative. Maybe you have a good reason for what you've done.
Nah, it's cool, we all learn from the comments.
T+G was a little hard to find around my area but I agree it would have been nice for the top deck but not a necessity.
As for the tyvek under the sub deck- you must mean the vapour barrier? I've never seen the VB under the deck. You can get liquid VBs (at vast expense) that are spread over the sub deck and yes you're right that the insulation can be glued down on to that, but it would be pointless to glue on to a polythene VB, but yes, the top deck can be glued rather than mechanically fixing with slab nails.
There's definitely no risk of the EPDM puncturing though-PIR insulation doesn't compress at all when it has sheet material over it. I've walked all over it and the slab nails are in the exact same position as they were in this vid.
Of course, there's more than one way to skin a cat!
Also vpc should lap up the sides of the insulation around perimeter
Good suggestion 👍
Thanks for much useful advice! I'm wondering about finishing my roof with corrugated iron or similar - I'm guessing I could waterproof the top deck with a membrane of some kind and then fasten the corrugated iron to it - would that work?
What about the furrings for the fall?
Ali - quick question for you. At 5:50 in this video why is it that these pieces of timber aren't flush? The top one looks like the 2x4 boundary holding the PIR in place, but what is the lower timer? Is it the fascia board? Thanks!
Hmm not 100% sure what you’re getting at but this is a shot of the left side so the bottom timber is the ‘timber fascia’ on the side overhang, then OSB sub deck above, then vapour barrier then timber border around the insulation, upon which the top deck would attach. Does that make sense?
That might explain something you’ve left three mil gap for expansion where was I was thinking it was better to get them completely tighter so as not to put any pressure on the felt as regards covering a gap?
I have seen example of where the OSB expands and then creates a ridge which you don't want. If I were doing it again i would use tongue and groove osb that creates a tight seam but supposedly also allows for movement. That's your best bet. Plus they're smaller sheets so easier to lift up on the roof!
Great video! I started with this part but now I need to go back and watch the other 9!
haha hope you enjoyed them! I like the look of your channel, just the kind of projects I like doing. Will watch some in due course.
Lovin details much love happy healthy new year my darlings
Love watching your vids. They're a great source of knowledge and inspiration. Did you leave a 3mm gap for the OSB board on the roof (both the 18mm & 11mm)? Seems counter intuitive to leave gaps when you want something water tight.
Great video- at last one that helps me !
Glad I found this chanel I'm doing one myself and am at the insulation stage. Expensive stuff but want a log burner in mine
Nice, I nearly went for a wood burner myself.
Hi Ali been watching your videos because I’m planning on doing something similar giving me inspiration mate well done. Quick question what size timber did you use and what length for the roof? Kind regards chris
Brilliant !! well done, if i can just say never walk backwards on a roof.
Wise words!
Iv just fitted boards to my roof ready for epdm rubber roof but with the 3mm gasps between boards is there a sealer or exterior caulk for the gaps which prevents water getting in while I have not fitted rubber roof?
Last question if you don’t mind is, Iv used plywood not osb an as it’s been a bit damp lately can you get away with using the rubber adhesive on damp ish wood? Thanks
Great series. Im taking the plunge myself. Quick q - in your design video it says you'll use plywood, but you went for OSB. Did you work out that OSB was strong enough etc?
Can i just use osb board 11mm and membrane the roof and use tin box sheeting for top layer do you think that would be ok if you could help please
What is the thinnest insulation you could get away with and it still keep the dew point above where it needs to be? I'm building a garden room that has to be 2.5m max so I want to go as low profile as possible. Thanks
I think even 25mm will do quite a bit, 50mm is a nice depth for warmth. If you're really struggling with height I'd go with a cold roof and go thick - 100mm+
@@AliDymock Thank you for taking the time to reply, it's most appreciated. I can get away with 50mm yes that would be okay. Yes the cold roof option is still on the table I just don't want to mess it up by not having sufficient ventilation and the warm roof seems a bit more foolproof ha. Thanks again.
@@GoExperimental the ventilation is pretty easy, depending on what you are planning, I’ve just done a cold roof on a 3x5m workshop, left overhangs on all four sides, although really front to back is the most important. I then clad the soffits of the overhangs with recycled pallet wood (although you could use any sort of wood) and left a couple of mm between them to allow airflow above the insulation :)
Good luck with your project
@@matthewsaunby9056 Thanks for the advice, Matthew. I'll give it some more thought. Cheers
Go Experimental nn
Ali brilliant video but not sure about music 😂👍🇬🇧 Great work.
heheh fair enough!
Hi im using 8x4 osb3 18mm and its not tongue and grooved, is it wise to put a 3mm spacing between boards? I have fitted noggins so all edges are supported , also is it ok to add a polyurethane d4 glue to my expansion gaps if i decide to do a2-3mm gap, thanks and a great video
great info!
I got a Spanish style flat roof pitched towards one direction with the exterior wall that comes up about 2 feet past the roof all around (except for the runoff end).
How would you warm roof insulate that ?
I think I'd need a photo or two to get a better idea. Feel free to email me at hello@alidymock.com and I'll try to help!
You're the only person I've seen who actually does a warm deck correct! however the minimum thickness of insulation for a warm deck should be 120mm
Cheers. In retrospect I reckon it could have been a bit better but I'm pretty happy with it. Yup, for an extension that seems to be the norm - usually bang a 25mm board on top of a 100mm one it seems. For a non b regs garden room - 100mm seems to be more than good enough. Law of diminishing returns means the cost for the extra 20/25mm doesn't get you an awful lot extra thermal resistance, plus adds another 25mm to the height!
Ripper36068 how poor will the insulation be if 100mm is used instead of 120
@@postman445 The law of diminishing returns comes in to play. Between 80 and 100mm a difference of 0.04W/m2.K but between 100 and 120mm 0.03W/m2.K.
It's very toasty in winter and more than enough for a garden room.
@@postman445 The U value is proportional to the thickness of insulation you use as well as thickness of the decking material; plus the type of insulation material; as they all differ in their respective Lamda value or resistivity! But it would a lot less than having 120mm of insulation!
Ali thank you !
Your videos have given me the confidence to build my own garden office.
I'm currently well into my project and each of your clips have been an invaluable source of reference to guide me throughout.
When is part 11 being posted ?????
That's great :) Part 11- this week!
Thank you for the vedio , very informative 👍
Hi Ali first off love all these videos very informative and makes life so much easier. Only thing I'm struggling with is your roof as I'm max 2.5 height i still want warm roof so I'm building direct on concrete to save floor space. Could you tell me what you roof is in height i.e. so i can minus that from the 2.5m to know what shed height i need in studs Thanks
Hi Ben, glad you have found them useful. Mine was 350mm in total from memory, I think it's in Part 9 that I show the full build up and height BUT that's just mine, with the amount of insulation I used with 9x2 joists to suit my span. In my vid about how I'd construct a cold roof I make the point that you can reduce the insulation to, say, 50mm and it will still be really warm if you keep your VB nicely intact. Second I reckon I could have reduced my joists to maybe 2x8s or 2x7s and gotten away with it as the span tables are conservative. Alternatively you could situate your joists on closer centres than mine or possibly double them up and use thinner ones than the span tables suggest. Obviously these weren't of concern to me because I had 3 metres to play with rather than the 2.5 PD height within 2m of a boundary.
Great videos and really useful presentation, many thanks. One thing I'm not clear about, though - if I were to leave the roof joists exposed internally with ceiling, deck etc above them, how are the gaps between each joist above front and back walls filled in? Have I missed something obvious?
There's a small bit in Part 12 where I show this-essentially rectangle pieces of PIR insulation inserted above the top plate, between the joists, spray foamed around the edges 👍
@@AliDymock Thanks Ali!
Hello, great videos but I think I missed something. How did you close the space between the joists over the wall and before the overhang? Thank you.
Check out part 12, just before the spray foaming section. I fill them with rectangles of insulation above the wall.
Thanks!
How would you prevent cold bridging between where the insulation in the wall buildup stops and where the insulation in the roof is installed?
Between the roof joists you mean? I cut rectangles of insulation and installed between the joists, it's in Part 12. This doesn't help thermal bridging in the walls though, but the room is super cozy.
@@AliDymock Brill thanks :)
Love the videos, does the location of the vapour barrier not prevent a full seal on all corners?
It does mean it's not as tight as it would be under the joists as I can't do a vapour barrier to cover my joists as they cross the walls but as far as stopping moisture getting into the roof, it's in the right place for a warm roof.
Great vids...Surely though you pre-cut osb roof sheets before raising deck to top of walls. Avoids unnecessary cutting at height?🤔
Yes that would have been smarter.
Excellent and informative cheers!
One tip is to use stainless steel screws on top. I built a roof a few years back where the water got in. I didn’t notice until much later and all the screws rusted out and were a nightmare to remove
Even though they're under a roofing membrane?
Ali Dymock absolutely. If the membrane fails or damp gets in somewhere else trying to remove rusted out screws is a PITA
Hi shouldnt your vapour barrier be on top of your joist first before u put down the chipboard???
I don't think it really matters. The point of it is to be on the warm side of the insulation to stop water vapour moving into the insulation and condensing on the colder side. You can go without the OSB sub deck - joists>vapour barrier>insulation>OSB> roof finish which saves some money but loses some structural integrity of course
I came across you from Keith, so its nice to hear both you complement each other. Watching your this enormous garden house, I am kinda fighting how I can convert our *_shed_* to my *_studio_* as its fairly big in size. I am also *_disabled_* , so getting it done such a massive scale I wouldn't be even do the floor. Any *_ tips on_* this please how I can convert my Garden Shed to my mini workshop as well as studio for my channel. Have a look at my channel, and please let me know how I can improve to get noticed, as I probably am trying too hard for fineness. I live in Suffolk, perhaps close to *_Keith_* , unless you are closer if I knew where you live (County)... Anyhow, please look after yourself and each other & Stay Safe. I believe " *_Our World_* is a *_Shared Experience_* ." Cheers...
I definitely think you can do something with your shed to make it a bit cosier for a workshop even being disabled. I would look at installing insulation on the inside between the studs (even if they're only 2 or 3 inches thick) and then put ply or OSB over them so you can attach your tools to the wall. Then get an electrician in to add lights and sockets and a little heater and you'll be ready to go! :)
Great work... and Very impressive channel
Thanks :)
For me the last osb layer is not mandatory at all. Just add the metal sheets on top of the xps.
Hi, great videos due to height limitations could you use 11mm osb rather than 18mm for a warm roof, shaving some valuable millimetres?
you mentioned as you built within 1m of boundry using a timber frame that building controlled wouldnt be need if you used a non combaustable material could you cover that more please
Hi Tim, yes I will do in a future video. A few people have asked in various videos so have a search and you'll see what i'm thinking of using 👍
From what I understand the regulations call for cladding that has a Class 0 fire rating which I think has been mentioned in a previous video. This can be achieved by using intumescent coatings on regular wooden cladding such as ship lap. It tends to be a bit pricey but not too bad as long as only external cladding is treated. Not too sure how the rubber roof fairs in this but I'm sure Ali did plenty of research in this respect.