I have a 24x34 garage two bays. It was built in 1975. Slightly higher in the center of the garage I think 1.5" than the back of the garage. I believe a 3" perimeter curb. I am getting water coming up I believe between the curb and the floor. There are some cracks in the floor. Would you pour directly over and run it right up to the top of the curb?
I have three 1 car garage floors in very good shape for three small rentals i bought. Poured originally in 1941 but now I need to raise them 5.5 inches to match the modern gravel alley grade they exit to. Right now they are not usable only because since the 1980's you couldn't get a car in/out. I'm just a DIYer and this video answered a bunch of questions. Thanks!!
This is a great video! I own a house built in 1970 and the street is higher then the garage. Every time it rains I get about 2" of water by that bay doors and about a half inch by the back door. I wanted to know if this was even possible to lift the floor level, thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge!!!
Hello Mike great jobs as always. Im plannig to pour concrete over my exitingconcrete sidewalk. Just want to getting a slope away from the house. A tips
My father has done this more than a few times. If the concrete under is in good condition then I see no problem with doing it. Clean it up and knock it out. Great video and good looking job Mike!
I thought I was the only one that did this. I've been told how it should never be done, but I did it anyway with great results. I've done this twice in the last 5 years. One was a 10x10 patio that was in the way of a much larger screened room. 12x24 poured over with a 2-1/2-3 inch overlay, bonded and pinned to prevent movement. The latest one was a 12x36 where an enclosed carport turned living space would flood if there was too much rain. That got a 5-6 inch overlay and the room was repurposed into a master suite with a full bath.
I have a new 286 sq ft workshop with a 5" thick concrete slab. The 'contractor' did a decent job with leveling, but it is not smooth at all. Is there a technique to skim or overlay an existing concrete slab just to smooth it out?
I’ve got a 1,000 sq ft garage I’m considering doing this in. Had a contractor recommend pouring over like this. The majority of the floor is in great shape, however the back corner has sunk about 3-4 inches, and produced a 3/4 inch crack about 10 feet long with the edges of the crack being about 1/2 inch off flush. That’s just one corner though, any other cracks or issues are small and not concerning. It seems that the slab has stopped settling, and many years ago (slab is probably 20 some odd years old). Do you think that sounds like a good candidate for a pour-over? The contractor did, and ge said he would pour it about 4 inches thick, bond it, and use fiberglass rebar. I’d love to have it done cheaper than the 5K quoted, but also want it done right.
What about the existing drywall & wood framing that may be lower than the new level of concrete pour? Won't NOT putting anything in between these porous materials & concrete allow excessive moisture from the all the concrete & ground wick up into them causing rout & possibly mold issues? I am considering this in both my garages built in 1934. One is a 20' x 12' single attached. The other is a 24' x 30' two car detached. But not above any existing framing without a moisture barrier of some kind, especially in the basement. I would also like to door a 3-4" with fiber reimenforced & the new fiberglass rebar reinforcement in all of them.
Very informative. The use of a floor and it's slope will redo a lot of projects that need to be done. The thickness of the recover well change a lot of water problems.
Mike, I always put down a 6 mil plastic b4 I pour over old Crete, the rest I do like you and agree with all you said and did. I think it keeps the old cracks from coming up into the new concrete
Just started to watch your videos. 30 years as bricklayer/ stone mason and I've done my share of concrete. I'm sitting here saying man they pour that stuff wet. But once you said and showed how you screed I understand why. Interesting technique and great finished product. Subbed! 👍
@@mateoarguello7193 If you listen to Mike he explains the additive used to pour the way he does. It's not like pouring straight out soup that takes forever to set. (that is not good) but his pours set up just fine.
Thinking of cementing over an old cracked floor in an old garage redo. Found video searching. 26X24. We would lay 4 inches of cement over the old. Ever look at pictures of the floors to recommend? ND here.
Heavy engineering workshops often have a dual concrete floor. With the top layer being a sacrificial layer that can be replaced relatively easily (just break it out and replace with new)
@@marvinturnmire7406 What part of the video does he tie them in or even use dowels? I obviously missed that part. Oh wait, maybe the where he just says you don't have to? Would love to see his P.E License in structural engineering,and you and your boyfriends for that matter.
Good video and nicely done! I have a basement floor that I need to level, about 1/3 of the basement or more. One area will become bedrooms so I guess I could install the baseplates first 1 or 2 boards thick (along one side as a form then using the existing block walls as the rest of the form) but I’d have to slope that down to the doorways so one doesn’t have to step up into the rooms so high. So I guess I’ll need a bonding agent throughout the entire area being no more than 3” thick throughout. Your thoughts? Thanks
Mike we bought a brick built house which has a one car garage converted into a dining room (opened up from the living room so it is open plan). The concrete floor shows some flaking. The previous owners levelled the floor up to the living room height using a wooden frame and plywood boards. We're thinking of ripping that out and replacing with concrete on the old layer. It will need the to be 4 to 4.5 inches deep. Is this doable, also will we need to leave a small gap around the edge for expansion? Thank you.
Got a pad that had a garage built on it and caught on fire burning structure to the slab. Slab doesn't look to affected aside from the pits in it that would keep you from rolling around on a creeper and maybe small chunks here n there but off the top of my head @6" slab and 30 x 30 square that we want to add another @10' on one side for a lift to be installed is why i came looking 4 these vids and yours is the 1st ive watched seems simple enough but hindsight should i tear up old slab or something like this be good without worrying about cracks say the next 20 years will be used as a shop for older car collection but also a garage to a couple 3/4 ton and dually trucks
Mike, I’m having a truck come by in a couple days to pour concrete with fiber mesh over concrete in my two car detached garage. I had a few concerns. Are there any issues you see with my plans- 2 car garage, 19x19 Crack down the center of garage that settled at the left and right wall atleast 20 years ago, no noticeable movement since, no other cracks. It has more pitch to sides than it should. My centerline front to back is 2 inches below the apron and then the side wall edges would be 4 and a half inch depth. I’ve installed 1ft sections of #4 rebar along the side walls ( 6 inches in wall 6 inches in slab 2 foot spacing) to prevent sagging in the same areas it had. The goal is a floor level with the apron. Would you add any more reinforcement in the shallowest area? Would you use weld Crete anywhere or everywhere? Instead of bonding does it make sense to try and make sure to add something like sand between to try to prevent the two from bonding? Thanks! Your videos have been really helpful!
Thanks as always for the videos. Question: When pouring/adding concrete over old concrete, what about bonding issues? I've heard to use acid wash, clean, dampen first etc.?
Really appreciate the variety of videos you post Mike. Always anxious to see what type of job and specs you will be videoing and posting next. Its a shame more of the younger crowd doesn't appreciate the trades.
My concrete in my house garage is in very good shape. Problem is that it slopes towards my walls and I don’t have a floor drain. Can I punch a floor drain in my existing garage and do an over pour up to the drain and slope it? I don’t live in city, so regulations aren’t a problem.
My floor was a candidate until you said, "big cracks and settling" I hate the thought of jackhammering out the existing, but in all reality, it's the only way to go. Thanks for the info.
Definitely gotta bust up the old floor first. What a shame, and waste of time, effort and money, to pour new concrete over nasty shifting broken up existing concrete.
I got a 12 x 20 full concrete block wall garage. The pad is pretty cracked and I was going to do conc over conc. I raised the grade in the yard so I already raised the back man door and poured a new curb. When i did that I busted out a bit of conc already (6" thick) and noticed there is no rebar/ mesh in the existing slab. I have no problem bonding the surface but with the sub base not being super sound would you recommend busting out the concrete? Trying to keep costs low as I didn't plan on doing much to the garage in the first place as there are some settlement cracks in the block wall from there being no poured footing.
Mike just curious , why not do a 1/2" skim coat of concrete resurfacer or "self leveling" concrete? Commonly used for old beat up pitted concrete to give a fresh look . I want your opinion
The Concrete Truck broke down. I found your videos doing research on replacing my basement floor. It was around 100 years old and in 2 layers at least a year apart. The first layer tapered 2" from the back to 3" in the front. The second layer tapered 1" in front to 2" in the back. Because they first layer had been walked on and properly clean they did not adhere. The floor also sits directly on the blue clay river bed. So when it rains hard and in the spring the to broken layer would float. Out of all research I did, not once was a concrete truck broken down mentioned. In Epping ,NH I worked with a few concrete trucks and no one ever mentioned a truck breaking down. You can check out my last upload "Ultimate front yard" to see the waterfall I worked on. I did not have a camera when it was being built 15 years ago:(
20x30 foot pad. Mud got away from installer (my son) and left sound, but VERY rough surface, 6" thick. Probably an inch or so "roughness." Hate to jack hammer it out. Can I use your technique to salvage the surface of the pad?
I was always told the cracks from the existing floor would transfer to the new floor if not fixed properly. Is this something you have experienced? I would think the fiber is a big help for that?
@@bobbypatton4903 I would think the expansion and contraction of the concrete including the existing slab could make the cracks from the lower slab show in the upper.
Hi Mike, I have a building in Rockland Maine that is 26 x 50, I have put down insulation and radiant heat tube. I was wondering if you work in the Rockland Maine area? Thanks This is an existing building. Thanks
Does this work if the existing concrete has a moisture issue? We have water coming up through the old concrete and it's been difficult keeping mold growth out of behind the baseboards. Will a overlay concrete floor keep water out permanently?
My new-to-me house has a 30 x 30 foot two door garage with a sloped floor. I want to use half of it as a shop and want the shop floor level. Is it practical to do that? Thanks!
Hey mike love your work I watch yours and Odell complete concrete it help me a lot I just across this video and I just got this done for my moms 4,000 psi over the old some places where 3 1/2 but others kids low cut some away but put others 6 inches to slope to 3 1/2 it came out great single bay garage out to drive way we use it for walk way only. Now no cars and it it is good to have a good strong person that can take the concrete so next send me tee she’s strong I can tell that cause concrete is a job be blessed thanks for sharing
So ive set tile over concrete with cracks and have coated the floor with an anti-fracture coating ( redguard or hydroban). Is that something you have considered? Do you think it may be beneficial or just an un-necessary expense?
I don't know if you'll see this but maybe there's someone out there that could give me an answer to my question. I have a double carport that sweats really bad and is very slippery when it's that way and wondered if there's something I could seal it with that would stop this from happening? It's an open carport with a brick mid waist high wall as a border on one side and the house brick wall as the other side.
Hi Mike, I have a 40'x60' pig barn in N. CA. which has irregular levels of concrete due to the old pens (about 4 rows - maybe 6 pens per row) which are tilted down so the pigs could be washed and 4 door - two sets on either side of the barn which have a canal to catch the water. I need to make one flat floor. Between the lowest and the highest point is about 5". The concrete floor is very thick and sound - no cracks. Any thoughts on how to level the floor soundly? I have more exact calculations on the rise and the fall of the concrete and an estimation on materials but I wont bother you with that. Nobody in my area seems to know how to do this work - its very frusterating. I am about ready to start building my own forms ect... Should I hire an engineer? Thank you ... very frusterated...
I have a very broken and uneven back patio. Whoever did the original pad didnt compact the ground or use an appropriate gravel base. When the ground inevitably settled, the pad cracked with a deep valley in the middle. If I do a 3" new pour over it, will it be okay or do I need to remove the old concrete?
Hi Mike, I have an existing two car garage that I will be expanding to a six car garage. I will be adding one additional bay to the side, and then going back to make the whole garage two bays deep. The current two car slab is in good shape but a little out of level after 65 years. Is it a good idea to go over the existing two car slab like in this video, and then add all new concrete to the four new bays being added, or is it better to break out the old slab since two-thirds of the concrete will be all new based on the four bays being added? Thank you in advance for the reply.
Why didn't you bevel the edges down under the Garage doors? The next good rain the water will run down the doors and into the garage instead of into the driveway. My old garage had that problem with rain, I beveled the entrances to the new shop and no problems since. The new shop has 6 doors and is 6400sq. ft.--no flooding. I am surprised you did not prep the surface, looks like there is epoxy on the old floor. Since the old floor is cracked from settling, I would think the more the floor settles the greater the chance of the new slab will crack too.
Great video.... I usually use dpc/plastic to separate the old to new concrete with Fibre mesh concrete... let me know your sentiments regarding. Cheers 🍻
Bad practice. You create a vapour barrier trap when you do that. The latex bonding agents do the work and moisture can pass through them. I always prep the surface when I see paint to scuff it up and I use bonding agents.
@@shawnhayden6674 adding poly under the concrete will make the concrete way stronger, it allows the water to stay in the concrete while it is cureing. If you are too cheap to use poly under concrete, you shouldn't be pouring concrete. This floor won't last long before it starts cracking and flaking.
Mike, here is my project: 36x36 existing garage with a double bay and a single bay door. Converting single bay side to living area measuring about 12x36. Existing slab is in good condition with a fall of about 1/8" per foot. Here's the project areas I'm researching: 1) Level with concrete or use a PT sleeper joist system that tapers to maintain level? 2) I'd like to build a continuation of the existing CMU perimeter wall beneath the framing that will fill in the old garage door. Better to form curb directly on top of existing concrete using vertical dowels, or cut slab, excavate some depth then dowel horizontally into existing slab, form and fill to height of CMU (about 5" above existing)? 3) I'd like to form a curb the length of the space to create a level surface to build the partition wall on. Thickness will be about 5" on one end and 2 3/8" on the other and the wall is not load bearing. Same question as above - form directly on top of existing with vertical dowels, or cut and excavate then form and pour? I like to do things to the best of my ability. My nickname might as well be Overkill. I appreciate input from anyone with experience (with concrete). I'm leaning towards sleepers... here's why: 1) easier to do myself, easier to get perfectly level, 2" closed cell spray foam between joists as vapor barrier and for insulation, OSB sub-floor topped with engineered hardwood.
If you're more comfortable with sleepers, I'd go that way to level it. I'd personally use a self-leveler but I've used them quite a bit so easy for me to do. I'd form directly on top of floor for the other things, drill and pin like you say.
@@MikeDayConcrete Awesome! I appreciate your time. If you find another moment... I considered self leveler, but at 5.5"? Whats the prep for multiple lifts at greatest depth possible per the manufacturers product specifications? Not much of any information I could find on multiple lifts of self leveling products...
@@MikeDayConcrete I probably misunderstood. I'm guessing you meant to get the new concrete slab to close-to-finished height and then self level over that to dial it in nice and level. Thanks again for your response. Have a good one!
My garage floor is settled in far left corner bad slop downward. Other parts are cracked one spot about 3 feet in diameter is completely sunk in n broke. The garage is one in a half car garage. One plus is when original floor was poured they poured roughly a twelve inch high lip all the way around. If I put rebarb down could I pour over instead of ripping out?
I have a 40'x40' garage i have hoists in the garage id like to put in floor heat and pour over the exsiting floor the current floor is in good shape. how would you do it ?
Intriguing. First I'm seeing this done. Also, that kick screeting is new. My dad says it makes the floor uneven though, so I'll probably never be allowed to try it.
@@jaked964 he said something about the speed making it not as flat. Idk. It does look a lot waiver than the way he does it. I'd think the bull float would fix all that, but he's been doing it for his whole life, so idk. It could just be his ego getting in the way too tough. You know old people, been doing it the hard way 40+ years, so anything that makes them think they haven't been perfect all that time causes them to revert to two year old mentality. It's sad actually. I've discovered it's usually the elders that have the most fragile egos. You'd think telling them an easier way would make them happy, but they just get hurt they didn't think of it 20 years ago, then double down on their way.
Can you pour concrete over existing asphalt?? My driveway is asphalt, but they laid it 6" lower than the garage floor, leaving a large hump to get into the garage.
How did the garage doors work out? It seems to me the opening shrunk by 5 inches. Berried the track in the Concreat? Do the garage door need to be replaced?
I've got a slab that i wanna pour over and make it all level i also wanna pour more concrete right next to it in the dirt how would i make the transition should i put an expansion join in there or just form up the slab connected and pour it continuously
@@MikeDayConcrete That's exactly how I was going to do it, also tying it together with rebar i've actually got a twenty by forty two that is on three different levels and i'm in alabama so frost and anything is not issue and also it's gonna be enclosed in a house. But actually got on a facebook page and everybody had all different kind ideas about how to do it and what's you just said was my original plan before i even ask for advice so i'm gonna go with this
I have a garage that was built over two old carports. The previous owner sloped both of the pads towards a 1' French drain filled with river rock for drainage. I filled the drain section with concrete and built a stem wall for the garage foundation. Because of the slope from the driveway into the front of the garage during heavy rain the water sometimes enters the garage. One slab is rough finished and the other is smooth. Really if I could just float it the problem would be fixed but the concrete towards the entry to the garage would only be an inch thick. Any suggestions? BTW, I find your videos very helpful! 🙂
Mike looks good, we do maybe 8-10 a year. Do you guys ever do driveway's? Have done a few but not very common in Massachusetts freeze thaw ice etc. I have customers ask about it and recommend just paving it. Definitely cheaper!
Yea definitely thinking about doing this,we have a 30'x60' two bay,bit of blistering. Was an old mechanic shop,no sealer,just broomed. Basically gonna be a place for light truck, and a compact car, with my aquaponics system. So thanks for the video
Iv also been pouring for years only custom work,no house builders, only true custom work. Iv never poured over old concrete I think it will crack fast over the existing crack , but I'll try it now, and I also use vibra strike screeds😁
Mike can you do a video (scenarios) where you would use Weld Crete so folks can get familiar with this product. This stuff is amazing. I use it on cold butt joints, applying new to old concrete and predominantly on all of my door and window replacement where we have stucco patch work. I have found this to be a great bonding agent. I have used this to float cement all on sidewalks that have lifted, cracked or just had huge holes on city sidewalks. Come back years later and the cement all is still in place.
Thank you for the video. I’ve been wanting to do this in a detached garage. I’m worried about the two slabs not bonding. Would pinning it be worth it? Thanks
The slabs don't bond. The old slab is cracked but having settled all the years, it's stable. The new slab floats on top of it. If they had bonded, the cracks would telescope through. Not telescope... what's the word?
Hard to say if there is no settlement under the existing floor just because you don’t see settlement of the existing floor. Hope the existing floor will hold the new added weight.
I was thinking of raising the deep end of a pool by 2 feet (that being the center which is 8 feet). I would install a 2 foot riser for the drain) . I would then fill the deep end (center) with sand, then pour a 4 inch slab in the entire bottom, thereby raising the pool bottom by 4 inches around it's entire inside perimeter, in addition to the 2 feet I desire in the center. 1. Does this sound feasible? 2. If so, what psi concrete would one use? 3. Would you mesh and/or rebar the concrete pour? This is an existing ingrown concrete pool whose bottom is breaking up a bit, but still holds water just fine.....thanks for your opinion
Hi Mike, I am just about to do this in my barn conversion. We dug new footings around an existing slab (that as far as I can see doesn't have a dpm) and now there is between a 4-12" gap between the old slab and the new walls with the dpc hanging into the room 6". The slab, although it looks like it's made out of different pours doesn't have any cracks in at all and has been there since 1960. It's going to be an unheated workshop. Would it be suitable to lap a new dpm on top and put a 3-4" slab onto that? What sort of mix would be adequate to roll upto 1 ton ish woodworking machinery over without damaging? Could put some wood down on top if damaging is an issue. Really would like to avoid breaking the old one out if possible... All the best
No you don't want to pour concrete over asphalt. Blacktop isn't as stable. You can pave over concrete though but you don't want to pour concrete over blacktop ever. Best bet is to tear up the blacktop and add/adjust the stone base and compact it then pour on that.
I have a patio 5-6” thick poured in 22 that runs in my foundation….the guy that poured it blames my forms but he removed the ones I was going to use along the house….patio is 19x25 I was thinking of pouring on top 9x10 section to drain the water away
I am resurfacing a slab that is exposed outside, it has lots of surface Spaul and flaking , any extra consideration if it is exposed to sun , rain, freezing etc? Thank you for the video!
What makes the top pop is water, usually in the form of snow freezing and thawing. If snow is on your drive it will melt in the day than at night a portion of what melted will freeze during the night bonding and lifting the concrete. You always need to get snow off your drive. If you drive through a neighborhood you will always see more flaking at the garage doors on the south side of the road then on the north side of the road because it takes longer for the snow to melt on the southside because the sun goes down behind the house and the northside just keeps freezing and thawing the sun melts the snow faster on the houses on the north side of the road because the drives are not shaded by the house. Drive down any Neighborhood the note and see the difference on the southside from the northside
HI Mike. This is my first video I've watched and I just subscribed. I know you weren't concerned about the cracks in the existing slab. What are the chances of a crack telegraphing up in the new slab? What is your experience in telegraphing cracks without any kind of bond breaker?
I did the same thing at my house years ago, people had lots of negative comments… but I’ve had zero issues and my garage is now dry
I have a 24x34 garage two bays. It was built in 1975. Slightly higher in the center of the garage I think 1.5" than the back of the garage. I believe a 3" perimeter curb. I am getting water coming up I believe between the curb and the floor. There are some cracks in the floor. Would you pour directly over and run it right up to the top of the curb?
I have three 1 car garage floors in very good shape for three small rentals i bought. Poured originally in 1941 but now I need to raise them 5.5 inches to match the modern gravel alley grade they exit to. Right now they are not usable only because since the 1980's you couldn't get a car in/out. I'm just a DIYer and this video answered a bunch of questions. Thanks!!
This is a great video! I own a house built in 1970 and the street is higher then the garage. Every time it rains I get about 2" of water by that bay doors and about a half inch by the back door. I wanted to know if this was even possible to lift the floor level, thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge!!!
Best way is put a drain in with a pump. I just did major work on drainage to keep basement dry.
Hello Mike great jobs as always. Im plannig to pour concrete over my exitingconcrete sidewalk. Just want to getting a slope away from the house. A tips
My father has done this more than a few times. If the concrete under is in good condition then I see no problem with doing it. Clean it up and knock it out. Great video and good looking job Mike!
I thought I was the only one that did this. I've been told how it should never be done, but I did it anyway with great results.
I've done this twice in the last 5 years. One was a 10x10 patio that was in the way of a much larger screened room. 12x24 poured over with a 2-1/2-3 inch overlay, bonded and pinned to prevent movement. The latest one was a 12x36 where an enclosed carport turned living space would flood if there was too much rain. That got a 5-6 inch overlay and the room was repurposed into a master suite with a full bath.
lol, thats what happens when you listen to so called experts!! lol, there is nothing wrong with what you did, good job!
I have a new 286 sq ft workshop with a 5" thick concrete slab. The 'contractor' did a decent job with leveling, but it is not smooth at all. Is there a technique to skim or overlay an existing concrete slab just to smooth it out?
I’ve got a 1,000 sq ft garage I’m considering doing this in. Had a contractor recommend pouring over like this. The majority of the floor is in great shape, however the back corner has sunk about 3-4 inches, and produced a 3/4 inch crack about 10 feet long with the edges of the crack being about 1/2 inch off flush. That’s just one corner though, any other cracks or issues are small and not concerning. It seems that the slab has stopped settling, and many years ago (slab is probably 20 some odd years old).
Do you think that sounds like a good candidate for a pour-over? The contractor did, and ge said he would pour it about 4 inches thick, bond it, and use fiberglass rebar. I’d love to have it done cheaper than the 5K quoted, but also want it done right.
What about the existing drywall & wood framing that may be lower than the new level of concrete pour? Won't NOT putting anything in between these porous materials & concrete allow excessive moisture from the all the concrete & ground wick up into them causing rout & possibly mold issues?
I am considering this in both my garages built in 1934. One is a 20' x 12' single attached. The other is a 24' x 30' two car detached. But not above any existing framing without a moisture barrier of some kind, especially in the basement.
I would also like to door a 3-4" with fiber reimenforced & the new fiberglass rebar reinforcement in all of them.
Very informative. The use of a floor and it's slope will redo a lot of projects that need to be done. The thickness of the recover well change a lot of water problems.
Mike, I always put down a 6 mil plastic b4 I pour over old Crete, the rest I do like you and agree with all you said and did. I think it keeps the old cracks from coming up into the new concrete
I agree on that my self but its what ive always been told from older guys. Maybe it was just a precaution they did in case lol
Just started to watch your videos. 30 years as bricklayer/ stone mason and I've done my share of concrete. I'm sitting here saying man they pour that stuff wet. But once you said and showed how you screed I understand why. Interesting technique and great finished product. Subbed! 👍
I'm a 3ed generation concrete man. And if you pour it to wet it loses it's strength and is prone to pill and chip
@@mateoarguello7193 If you listen to Mike he explains the additive used to pour the way he does. It's not like pouring straight out soup that takes forever to set. (that is not good) but his pours set up just fine.
Thinking of cementing over an old cracked floor in an old garage redo. Found video searching. 26X24. We would lay 4 inches of cement over the old. Ever look at pictures of the floors to recommend? ND here.
Heavy engineering workshops often have a dual concrete floor. With the top layer being a sacrificial layer that can be replaced relatively easily (just break it out and replace with new)
Yea and they also use structural reinforcement and tie the 2 together. This is cheap and will fail within a year.
@@captainobvious5349 you cleary didnt watch the whole video.
@@lambbolt he sounds more like Captain Oblivious to me.
You are not parking earth movers on it 🤣
@@marvinturnmire7406 What part of the video does he tie them in or even use dowels? I obviously missed that part.
Oh wait, maybe the where he just says you don't have to? Would love to see his P.E License in structural engineering,and you and your boyfriends for that matter.
I will be pouring over old concrete; this video is very helpful!
I have run into many jobs that the cracks projected through the topping. I don't know if you run into that or not.
Good video and nicely done!
I have a basement floor that I need to level, about 1/3 of the basement or more.
One area will become bedrooms so I guess I could install the baseplates first 1 or 2 boards thick (along one side as a form then using the existing block walls as the rest of the form) but I’d have to slope that down to the doorways so one doesn’t have to step up into the rooms so high.
So I guess I’ll need a bonding agent throughout the entire area being no more than 3” thick throughout. Your thoughts?
Thanks
Always put 6 mil down, when the new floor starts to shrink,it won't get stuck and pull itself apart
Mike we bought a brick built house which has a one car garage converted into a dining room (opened up from the living room so it is open plan). The concrete floor shows some flaking. The previous owners levelled the floor up to the living room height using a wooden frame and plywood boards. We're thinking of ripping that out and replacing with concrete on the old layer. It will need the to be 4 to 4.5 inches deep. Is this doable, also will we need to leave a small gap around the edge for expansion? Thank you.
Sounds doable. Thin foam like sill sealer would be good for the edges.
Got a pad that had a garage built on it and caught on fire burning structure to the slab. Slab doesn't look to affected aside from the pits in it that would keep you from rolling around on a creeper and maybe small chunks here n there but off the top of my head @6" slab and 30 x 30 square that we want to add another @10' on one side for a lift to be installed is why i came looking 4 these vids and yours is the 1st ive watched seems simple enough but hindsight should i tear up old slab or something like this be good without worrying about cracks say the next 20 years will be used as a shop for older car collection but also a garage to a couple 3/4 ton and dually trucks
You can pour over the old slab, 3" thick or more would be best.
Mike, I’m having a truck come by in a couple days to pour concrete with fiber mesh over concrete in my two car detached garage. I had a few concerns. Are there any issues you see with my plans-
2 car garage, 19x19
Crack down the center of garage that settled at the left and right wall atleast 20 years ago, no noticeable movement since, no other cracks. It has more pitch to sides than it should. My centerline front to back is 2 inches below the apron and then the side wall edges would be 4 and a half inch depth. I’ve installed 1ft sections of #4 rebar along the side walls ( 6 inches in wall 6 inches in slab 2 foot spacing) to prevent sagging in the same areas it had. The goal is a floor level with the apron.
Would you add any more reinforcement in the shallowest area?
Would you use weld Crete anywhere or everywhere?
Instead of bonding does it make sense to try and make sure to add something like sand between to try to prevent the two from bonding?
Thanks! Your videos have been really helpful!
Anything under 3 inches we bond. Over 3 and we don't. A sand layer or poly on pours over 3 is ok, poly is better.
Thanks as always for the videos. Question: When pouring/adding concrete over old concrete, what about bonding issues? I've heard to use acid wash, clean, dampen first etc.?
would plastic under the new floor help stop the old floor cracks from reflecting thru new floor?
Really appreciate the variety of videos you post Mike. Always anxious to see what type of job and specs you will be videoing and posting next.
Its a shame more of the younger crowd doesn't appreciate the trades.
I’m part of the younger crowd and I’m a union concrete man so it’s not us all
@@racingjunk7024 good to hear brotha..
Whenever I need work done I appreciate the skilled trades. Young people will too.
My concrete in my house garage is in very good shape. Problem is that it slopes towards my walls and I don’t have a floor drain. Can I punch a floor drain in my existing garage and do an over pour up to the drain and slope it? I don’t live in city, so regulations aren’t a problem.
Thanks. I have a question. Can you put infloor water heating in a 3 inch floor over concrete?
My floor was a candidate until you said, "big cracks and settling" I hate the thought of jackhammering out the existing, but in all reality, it's the only way to go. Thanks for the info.
Definitely gotta bust up the old floor first. What a shame, and waste of time, effort and money, to pour new concrete over nasty shifting broken up existing concrete.
Can you cover a floor that has bad spalling issue? No cracks just spalling
I got a 12 x 20 full concrete block wall garage. The pad is pretty cracked and I was going to do conc over conc. I raised the grade in the yard so I already raised the back man door and poured a new curb. When i did that I busted out a bit of conc already (6" thick) and noticed there is no rebar/ mesh in the existing slab. I have no problem bonding the surface but with the sub base not being super sound would you recommend busting out the concrete? Trying to keep costs low as I didn't plan on doing much to the garage in the first place as there are some settlement cracks in the block wall from there being no poured footing.
Mike just curious , why not do a 1/2" skim coat of concrete resurfacer or "self leveling" concrete? Commonly used for old beat up pitted concrete to give a fresh look . I want your opinion
Fresh look wasn't the goal, their was a drainage issue.
The Concrete Truck broke down.
I found your videos doing research on replacing my basement floor. It was around 100 years old and in 2 layers at least a year apart. The first layer tapered 2" from the back to 3" in the front. The second layer tapered 1" in front to 2" in the back. Because they first layer had been walked on and properly clean they did not adhere.
The floor also sits directly on the blue clay river bed. So when it rains hard and in the spring the to broken layer would float.
Out of all research I did, not once was a concrete truck broken down mentioned. In Epping ,NH I worked with a few concrete trucks and no one ever mentioned a truck breaking down.
You can check out my last upload "Ultimate front yard" to see the waterfall I worked on. I did not have a camera when it was being built 15 years ago:(
Do you recommend the customer to hose the new slab down periodically after your done?
20x30 foot pad. Mud got away from installer (my son) and left sound, but VERY rough surface, 6" thick. Probably an inch or so "roughness." Hate to jack hammer it out. Can I use your technique to salvage the surface of the pad?
I was always told the cracks from the existing floor would transfer to the new floor if not fixed properly. Is this something you have experienced? I would think the fiber is a big help for that?
I normally put down 6mil plastic and do the rest the same, I think it helps from the old cracks coming up in the new floor
That's called reflective cracking. If the slabs continue to settle and crack it will reflect through the new slabs.
That floor will last longer than most of us watching this video.
@@ThePerfectSeason1972 probably will
@@bobbypatton4903 I would think the expansion and contraction of the concrete including the existing slab could make the cracks from the lower slab show in the upper.
Do you need to put plastic down 1st so it don't sweat if you turning garage into a living room
Hi Mike, I have a building in Rockland Maine that is 26 x 50, I have put down insulation and radiant heat tube. I was wondering if you work in the Rockland Maine area? Thanks
This is an existing building. Thanks
Does this work if the existing concrete has a moisture issue? We have water coming up through the old concrete and it's been difficult keeping mold growth out of behind the baseboards. Will a overlay concrete floor keep water out permanently?
When you pour over old garage floor, do you usually need to get new garage doors?
Not always, but you do usually need to move them up a couple inches depending on how thick the new floor is.
@@MikeDayConcrete do you recommend to the customer that they keep the mew slab wet for a few days?
My new-to-me house has a 30 x 30 foot two door garage with a sloped floor. I want to use half of it as a shop and want the shop floor level. Is it practical to do that? Thanks!
Total DIYer novice here. So you are raising the floor, but now the floor is above the wall mud plate and touching sheetrock. Any issue there?
Hey mike love your work I watch yours and Odell complete concrete it help me a lot I just across this video and I just got this done for my moms 4,000 psi over the old some places where 3 1/2 but others kids low cut some away but put others 6 inches to slope to 3 1/2 it came out great single bay garage out to drive way we use it for walk way only. Now no cars and it it is good to have a good strong person that can take the concrete so next send me tee she’s strong I can tell that cause concrete is a job be blessed thanks for sharing
So ive set tile over concrete with cracks and have coated the floor with an anti-fracture coating ( redguard or hydroban). Is that something you have considered? Do you think it may be beneficial or just an un-necessary expense?
I'm curious how you went about lifting the garage, otherwise very informative, thank you
I need to do the same thing to one. What is the rough cost on something like that? It's almost the exact same size.
This garage floor looked pretty clean. But what would be needed if this was an old greasy shop floor. Muriatic acid? Just TSP?
I don't know if you'll see this but maybe there's someone out there that could give me an answer to my question. I have a double carport that sweats really bad and is very slippery when it's that way and wondered if there's something I could seal it with that would stop this from happening? It's an open carport with a brick mid waist high wall as a border on one side and the house brick wall as the other side.
Check Radonseal.com they have a sealer that'll help with that.
Hi Mike, I have a 40'x60' pig barn in N. CA. which has irregular levels of concrete due to the old pens (about 4 rows - maybe 6 pens per row) which are tilted down so the pigs could be washed and 4 door - two sets on either side of the barn which have a canal to catch the water. I need to make one flat floor. Between the lowest and the highest point is about 5". The concrete floor is very thick and sound - no cracks. Any thoughts on how to level the floor soundly? I have more exact calculations on the rise and the fall of the concrete and an estimation on materials but I wont bother you with that. Nobody in my area seems to know how to do this work - its very frusterating. I am about ready to start building my own forms ect... Should I hire an engineer? Thank you ... very frusterated...
I have a very broken and uneven back patio. Whoever did the original pad didnt compact the ground or use an appropriate gravel base. When the ground inevitably settled, the pad cracked with a deep valley in the middle. If I do a 3" new pour over it, will it be okay or do I need to remove the old concrete?
I'd recommend removing that. Then, use gravel and compact it properly. Pour new and it will last.
Hey Mike. I have this exact issue. This looks like the exact fix I need. Can you work in Hampden? (Just outside of Bangor.) Thanks!!
We have an efflorescence issue on our carport floor. Can concrete be poured over the existing floor. Thanks
Mike, got a concrete driveway that has sunk, but is now not sinking anymore. Seems to have stabilized. Would you pour concrete over that?
How long it takes to sura a 3" thick slab inside a garage? I mean If I what to lay tile after that, how many days should I wait?
the hands tell his story.... the walk back screed. many styles but this most popular ive seen
No primer or preparation?
No mesh to help stop it cracking ?
This will not last long before cracking
Hi Mike, I have an existing two car garage that I will be expanding to a six car garage. I will be adding one additional bay to the side, and then going back to make the whole garage two bays deep. The current two car slab is in good shape but a little out of level after 65 years. Is it a good idea to go over the existing two car slab like in this video, and then add all new concrete to the four new bays being added, or is it better to break out the old slab since two-thirds of the concrete will be all new based on the four bays being added? Thank you in advance for the reply.
Why didn't you bevel the edges down under the Garage doors? The next good rain the water will run down the doors and into the garage instead of into the driveway. My old garage had that problem with rain, I beveled the entrances to the new shop and no problems since. The new shop has 6 doors and is 6400sq. ft.--no flooding. I am surprised you did not prep the surface, looks like there is epoxy on the old floor. Since the old floor is cracked from settling, I would think the more the floor settles the greater the chance of the new slab will crack too.
Great video.... I usually use dpc/plastic to separate the old to new concrete with Fibre mesh concrete... let me know your sentiments regarding. Cheers 🍻
Bad practice. You create a vapour barrier trap when you do that. The latex bonding agents do the work and moisture can pass through them. I always prep the surface when I see paint to scuff it up and I use bonding agents.
@@shawnhayden6674 adding poly under the concrete will make the concrete way stronger, it allows the water to stay in the concrete while it is cureing. If you are too cheap to use poly under concrete, you shouldn't be pouring concrete. This floor won't last long before it starts cracking and flaking.
Mike, here is my project: 36x36 existing garage with a double bay and a single bay door. Converting single bay side to living area measuring about 12x36. Existing slab is in good condition with a fall of about 1/8" per foot. Here's the project areas I'm researching: 1) Level with concrete or use a PT sleeper joist system that tapers to maintain level? 2) I'd like to build a continuation of the existing CMU perimeter wall beneath the framing that will fill in the old garage door. Better to form curb directly on top of existing concrete using vertical dowels, or cut slab, excavate some depth then dowel horizontally into existing slab, form and fill to height of CMU (about 5" above existing)? 3) I'd like to form a curb the length of the space to create a level surface to build the partition wall on. Thickness will be about 5" on one end and 2 3/8" on the other and the wall is not load bearing. Same question as above - form directly on top of existing with vertical dowels, or cut and excavate then form and pour? I like to do things to the best of my ability. My nickname might as well be Overkill. I appreciate input from anyone with experience (with concrete). I'm leaning towards sleepers... here's why: 1) easier to do myself, easier to get perfectly level, 2" closed cell spray foam between joists as vapor barrier and for insulation, OSB sub-floor topped with engineered hardwood.
If you're more comfortable with sleepers, I'd go that way to level it. I'd personally use a self-leveler but I've used them quite a bit so easy for me to do. I'd form directly on top of floor for the other things, drill and pin like you say.
@@MikeDayConcrete Awesome! I appreciate your time. If you find another moment... I considered self leveler, but at 5.5"? Whats the prep for multiple lifts at greatest depth possible per the manufacturers product specifications? Not much of any information I could find on multiple lifts of self leveling products...
@@MikeDayConcrete I probably misunderstood. I'm guessing you meant to get the new concrete slab to close-to-finished height and then self level over that to dial it in nice and level. Thanks again for your response. Have a good one!
My garage floor is settled in far left corner bad slop downward. Other parts are cracked one spot about 3 feet in diameter is completely sunk in n broke. The garage is one in a half car garage. One plus is when original floor was poured they poured roughly a twelve inch high lip all the way around. If I put rebarb down could I pour over instead of ripping out?
My current bay sweats - could I pour over it and use something to stop the sweating?
Hey I want to put new concert on old concert . that have paint on... what should I do before
perfect time to add a floor drain!
Should I use bonding agent with 1.5 inch feathered top coat for repairing garage floor and parking pad in front of garage doors.
@@kencalder1826 wouldn't hurt. Drill tapcons and tie rebar off to them as an easy and quick lateral mechanical bond.
Need to feather it in to get correct slope can't use rebar
@@kencalder1826 use tapcons anyways. Perfect for skimming
I have a 40'x40' garage i have hoists in the garage id like to put in floor heat and pour over the exsiting floor the current floor is in good shape. how would you do it ?
Intriguing. First I'm seeing this done. Also, that kick screeting is new. My dad says it makes the floor uneven though, so I'll probably never be allowed to try it.
How does kick screeding make it uneven, you’re screeding flat over where you walked lol
@@jaked964 he said something about the speed making it not as flat. Idk. It does look a lot waiver than the way he does it. I'd think the bull float would fix all that, but he's been doing it for his whole life, so idk. It could just be his ego getting in the way too tough. You know old people, been doing it the hard way 40+ years, so anything that makes them think they haven't been perfect all that time causes them to revert to two year old mentality. It's sad actually. I've discovered it's usually the elders that have the most fragile egos. You'd think telling them an easier way would make them happy, but they just get hurt they didn't think of it 20 years ago, then double down on their way.
When you kick the hole closed, it could push under the float if you get carried away about it.
Can you pour concrete over existing asphalt?? My driveway is asphalt, but they laid it 6" lower than the garage floor, leaving a large hump to get into the garage.
How did the garage doors work out? It seems to me the opening shrunk by 5 inches. Berried the track in the Concreat? Do the garage door need to be replaced?
Is an additive put in the concrete to help it dry because there's only one way for the water to go except up?
I've got a slab that i wanna pour over and make it all level i also wanna pour more concrete right next to it in the dirt how would i make the transition should i put an expansion join in there or just form up the slab connected and pour it continuously
I'd pour it continuously and saw cut where they meet.
@@MikeDayConcrete That's exactly how I was going to do it, also tying it together with rebar i've actually got a twenty by forty two that is on three different levels and i'm in alabama so frost and anything is not issue and also it's gonna be enclosed in a house.
But actually got on a facebook page and everybody had all different kind ideas about how to do it and what's you just said was my original plan before i even ask for advice so i'm gonna go with this
@@MikeDayConcrete One other question is how deep does a footing for postframe construction need to be if I wet set the brackets to tie in the posts
I have a rough basement floor in a 100 year old house. I assume the same method would work?
Hey Mike, I'll bet you know a lot about the concrete work that goes on under new framing, for example the footing under the new garage door frame.
I have a garage that was built over two old carports. The previous owner sloped both of the pads towards a 1' French drain filled with river rock for drainage. I filled the drain section with concrete and built a stem wall for the garage foundation. Because of the slope from the driveway into the front of the garage during heavy rain the water sometimes enters the garage. One slab is rough finished and the other is smooth. Really if I could just float it the problem would be fixed but the concrete towards the entry to the garage would only be an inch thick. Any suggestions? BTW, I find your videos very helpful! 🙂
Tamms patch does feather edge to 1" thick
I was having a similar problem but what I did was put in channel drains and its done what I wanted.
If they are going to redo the driveway, why not just dig lower and level the asphalt with a slope away from the garage door sill?
Mike looks good, we do maybe 8-10 a year. Do you guys ever do driveway's? Have done a few but not very common in Massachusetts freeze thaw ice etc. I have customers ask about it and recommend just paving it. Definitely cheaper!
What's your price for this job mine looks the same.
I have the exact same issue, so good to know. Thanks!
You guys make it look so easy, but that how professional make look like, the concrete floor is going to look great 👍. Thanks 😊
Yea definitely thinking about doing this,we have a 30'x60' two bay,bit of blistering. Was an old mechanic shop,no sealer,just broomed. Basically gonna be a place for light truck, and a compact car, with my aquaponics system. So thanks for the video
What is the minimum thickness ? Does it apply to outdoor driveways too?
Been thinking about have this done. Want sure if it was possible. Very nice job done on the video and the garage.
No grade pins or stakes? You guys are good.
With a 10 foot straight edge in that small of an area, you don't need grade stacks in the center.
Iv also been pouring for years only custom work,no house builders, only true custom work. Iv never poured over old concrete I think it will crack fast over the existing crack , but I'll try it now, and I also use vibra strike screeds😁
Can cement be poured over a garage floor that lets water threw.
Mike can you do a video (scenarios) where you would use Weld Crete so folks can get familiar with this product. This stuff is amazing. I use it on cold butt joints, applying new to old concrete and predominantly on all of my door and window replacement where we have stucco patch work. I have found this to be a great bonding agent. I have used this to float cement all on sidewalks that have lifted, cracked or just had huge holes on city sidewalks. Come back years later and the cement all is still in place.
Thank you for the video. I’ve been wanting to do this in a detached garage. I’m worried about the two slabs not bonding. Would pinning it be worth it? Thanks
The slabs don't bond. The old slab is cracked but having settled all the years, it's stable. The new slab floats on top of it. If they had bonded, the cracks would telescope through. Not telescope... what's the word?
@@tedspens Telegraph?
Projected!
@@tedspens migrate?
Conflagrate
Can this be done on a concrete pad that has cracked badly? The garage floor is good, but the pad in front is a mess.
Hard to say if there is no settlement under the existing floor just because you don’t see settlement of the existing floor. Hope the existing floor will hold the new added weight.
Is that center post between the two doors a problem? Looks like you're surrounding the wood framing with concrete?
I was thinking of raising the deep end of a pool by 2 feet (that being the center which is 8 feet). I would install a 2 foot riser for the drain) . I would then fill the deep end (center) with sand, then pour a 4 inch slab in the entire bottom, thereby raising the pool bottom by 4 inches around it's entire inside perimeter, in addition to the 2 feet I desire in the center. 1. Does this sound feasible? 2. If so, what psi concrete would one use? 3. Would you mesh and/or rebar the concrete pour? This is an existing ingrown concrete pool whose bottom is breaking up a bit, but still holds water just fine.....thanks for your opinion
Hi Mike, I am just about to do this in my barn conversion. We dug new footings around an existing slab (that as far as I can see doesn't have a dpm) and now there is between a 4-12" gap between the old slab and the new walls with the dpc hanging into the room 6". The slab, although it looks like it's made out of different pours doesn't have any cracks in at all and has been there since 1960. It's going to be an unheated workshop. Would it be suitable to lap a new dpm on top and put a 3-4" slab onto that? What sort of mix would be adequate to roll upto 1 ton ish woodworking machinery over without damaging? Could put some wood down on top if damaging is an issue. Really would like to avoid breaking the old one out if possible... All the best
What is a dpm? Thanks!
@@bondpit8750 damp proof membrane
Can you pour concrete over asphalt? I have a similar situation to this with my driveway.
Yes you can
No you don't want to pour concrete over asphalt. Blacktop isn't as stable. You can pave over concrete though but you don't want to pour concrete over blacktop ever. Best bet is to tear up the blacktop and add/adjust the stone base and compact it then pour on that.
@@johnathanmartinez8128 No you don't ever want to pour concrete over blacktop. You can do blacktop over concrete but never the other way around.
Can’t seem to find the sealing video you mention was pending. Let me know if I missed it!
I have a patio 5-6” thick poured in 22 that runs in my foundation….the guy that poured it blames my forms but he removed the ones I was going to use along the house….patio is 19x25 I was thinking of pouring on top 9x10 section to drain the water away
One of the things that you said, made me right about Breaking up my existing yard. It's a project for my dog run.
Thanks very much.
Did you have to put any barrier around the outside where the concrete butts against the walls?
This works great. But i hope the bottom plates for walls was thought about.
What is a ballpark cost for a job like this?
I am resurfacing a slab that is exposed outside, it has lots of surface Spaul and flaking , any extra consideration if it is exposed to sun , rain, freezing etc? Thank you for the video!
What makes the top pop is water, usually in the form of snow freezing and thawing. If snow is on your drive it will melt in the day than at night a portion of what melted will freeze during the night bonding and lifting the concrete. You always need to get snow off your drive.
If you drive through a neighborhood you will always see more flaking at the garage doors on the south side of the road then on the north side of the road because it takes longer for the snow to melt on the southside because the sun goes down behind the house and the northside just keeps freezing and thawing the sun melts the snow faster on the houses on the north side of the road because the drives are not shaded by the house. Drive down any Neighborhood the note and see the difference on the southside from the northside
HI Mike. This is my first video I've watched and I just subscribed. I know you weren't concerned about the cracks in the existing slab. What are the chances of a crack telegraphing up in the new slab? What is your experience in telegraphing cracks without any kind of bond breaker?
They could if the cracks are still active, or moving. We felt this one was OK