If you were close to XC race podium riding on 1x12 drivetrain, you'd win it on 2x11. Here's why...
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- This is the third part of 1x12 drivetrains review.
Part 1: • 4 BIG PROBLEMS Of 1x10...
Part 2: • The TRUTH About 1x12 S...
Part 3: • If you were close to X...
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/ sickbiker - Навчання та стиль
At last, someone who is not afraid to talk sense!!! Well done.
My son is a mtb cross country racer and we switched this year from 1x12 back again to 2x11 . So much better now, and feels that he has indeed more power on the steepest climbs. He also can more save his legs because he has more gearing options and no big gearing gaps like the 1x12. The weight savings you have with 1x is not worth it in his opinion. He never want to go back to this crazy chainline , so yes... 2x all the way (So let's hope for him they make frames compatible in the future for 2x ...wich i'm afraid)
Still on my old 3x9 drivetrain..still loving it
Same! And I'm faster than the ones on 1x
Me too! I love my 3×9!
I just upgraded mine from 3by square type prowheel to shimano 44-32-22 hollowtech. quite heavy but I love them hehe.
I had a chain fail last week on my 1x12 that could only be explained by this problem you address here. Never had this kind of failure on my 3x9 I used and abused for 10 years.
So true. I'm an older xc racer (60+years) and appreciate having a wider ratio of gearing for those extra steep climbs and also for the long fast flats. I'm a consistant podium finisher and can contribute part of that success against 1x12 racers to having a wider range on courses that need more top speed or those extra steep climbs. I ve been running a 3x10 close ratio system, 26t, 32t, and 40t chainrings up front and 11to 46 on the rear and have raced on over 40, races in Thailand, and a couple in Colorado and Utah. You can get a wider ratio and save energy on a 2x11 or a 3x10 at only a small gain in weight. And Not have to remove and add different chainrings according to each new course you ride like the 1x12 serious racers often do. Even if I didnt race, I'd prefer more gears to choose from :-)
I have noticed this chainline problem on my bike. But I'm not worried too much about loosing watts. I am worried about accelerated wear on components that are expensive to replace.
Especially these crazy times that make parts twice as expensive.
You get this too.
Absolutely agree. I got 1x on my gravel bike and there's a lot more friction and grinding noises compared to my 2x bikes, especially in wet muddy conditions.
Just went back to 2x10 from a 32 front 11-42 rear.
Now 32-22 front 11-36 rear. Equilavent to a 52 rear 1x when in 22-36 combo. Much tighter ratios. Really enjoying it.
Sram 10 years ago: Do not cross chain!!!
Sram today: cross chain as much as you want :)
I'm glad you posted this. Even 1x11 systems sound like this and it's definitely noticable on ascents. I love the simplicity of 1x but they definitely have their setbacks especially if you're looking to improve your speed.
Currently have 1x 12 but I loved 2x10 so much
I really loved all your videos 😊i learned a lot.Thanks and stay safe
Still using 3x9 and enjoying the benefits of fast pavement with quick climbs.
Enjoying that chain noise?
Love the chain suck and noise. Also love a good front mech rub.
@@michiganstate149 Omg front mech rub is driving me insane right now, just end up playing with trim all the time when climbing, ok in my descending gear though
Me too!
Enjoying the annoying shifting?
2x10 is the best for me
I will start by saying I am not a competition rider, I just love building bikes and riding trails with my friends and family, recently I built myself a full suspension enduro style ride with all the top parts, Fox forks, seat post and rear shock, full Shimano XT 1x drive train, including hydraulic disc brakes. After riding our local bike park over 5 different weekends I started to notice a noise from the drive chain, when in the lower gears as I was climbing back up the hill, it sounds like, when the derailluer is not set right and chain is dragging on a cog. Once I was home, I put the bike back in the service stand and inpected it to find the source of the noise. I found it was coming from the 36 tooth chain wheel at the crank, as the chain leaves the wheel heading towards the derailluer, the chain is catching on the tooth and making a clicking sound, at this point I realized that the is no solution to my problem and I would have to live with it.
After watching your video I concur that the chain line is the problem, I like your videos, keep up the good work.
P.S. I have a hardtail with Shimano XTR Di2, I also found a engineering design flaw with it
Love this video. You spoke truth.....marketing has taken over the sport. It is nice to hear someone tell it how it is!
Nice point of view! Great video!
Agree! totally Agree about loosing Watts. But 1x is useful to XCO, because even loosing Watts, is faster change gear with 1x system. Specially with electronics rear derailers, when you go Uphills and downhills everytime in few seconds almost without time to anticipate the gear. In XCM races, totally agree with you. But the Marketing try to sell this idea that 1x is the best scenario in both disciplines XCO and XCM.
You could make a good video, with AXS. The AXS app, can give you the information about how many time in one race you are using which gear. and than, you can estimate Lost watts.
Good Video. Thanks.
Exactly as I was thinking, and everything you said in this video is logical and there is no dispute. Thank you for this clear explanation.❤❤
The dispute is that the difference in watts is less than 3 at 50kph, much better to change tires
Danny, great topic. Several studies have found that the combined friction from cross chaining and from the derailleur jockey wheels can be as much as 12 watts. That is power you are putting out that is not reaching the rear wheel. That is one reason why people racing a single speed often finish high in the standings against geared bikes.
Thanks danny for pointing out that even modern 1x system do have some issues with the chain line , no wonder i saw the rear derailleur cage slightly twisted on my friend’s MTB 😥 , thank goodness i still have a 2x drive train 😫
Rocking 2x11 here. Used to have 1x before. 2x is actually not that complex compared to 1x. I just shift down 2 rear gears when I move to bigger chainring. Feels like shifting up 1 rear gear.
This is the way.
A great way of being productive 💯
It really makes much Fun to beat modern Carbon Roadbikes or Carbon MTBs on the Street or Tarmac with such old 90s Bikes
(Drivetrain 28/38/48 - 11)
Every Day a Dream to ride with such Oldschool Cro-Moly Bike)
Interesting because any of my biker friends in 1978 could have told you that the angle of a 1x12 (they did not actually exist then) would be very bad for the chain aside from the friction it would cause. It was the reason that chainrings had two and three rings on early bikes. Not so much for easy uphill but more to keep your chain from breaking from the severe angle. Granted...the distance in cassette rings was wider because the rings themselves were wider. I am amazed I that there are 12 rings in nearly the same space as 5 or 6 but still the angles were severe. Your points on this are very well done. Looking around, I doubt two chainrings and a front derailer will be back in vogue. At least on mtbs.
You are absolutely right!
That's indeed a situation that comes with a 12s cassette, but the chainline can't be much more to the biggest gears, because the interference between the gears itselves. When the chain is at the biggest gear the chain line crosses over the 2nd gear but passes gliding over that 2nd gear without touching it because it's smaller. If the straight chain line passes right at the center of the cassette, the problem described above (chain crossing over a next gear) comes to happen on both edges of the cassette, causing a bigger problem in the 11th gear, because it's bigger than the 12th, so the chain can't avoid to touch and friction the teeth of the 11th gear and have friction in and outside the links and in the chainplate and in the derailer pulleys. So, in order to avoid a bigger chaos, the chain line must be charged a little bit more to the smaller gears side.
I'm very happy with my 2x11XT.
3x11 joined the channel 😎
What range of cogs does 3x11 need
How is the chain sag on the lowest cog in both derallieurs?
@@rigobertoitachijohnson Something like 24-34-44 on the cranks and like 11-36 cassette, I think
Thats the reason why i keep 2x11 , and againts all normal reason , my upgrade was from m8000 2x11, to di2 XTR 2x11 , instead of the normal 1x12 gx axs or similar , even I had both to decide in front of me , the closest gear steps , save my legs on my 80k plus rides much more than a 1x11 or 1x12 drivetrain that I use before !! Now 2 more of my parthner group ride are trying to get 2x11 instead of their 1x12 , the saving watss , always find the best cadence, dont have a price !!! Marketing give us less for more money (1 chainring less , 1 shifter less and FD less) saving costs for them , and taking more from our wallets , also I think for 60k or less rides , is ok to ride 1x12 , but for long marathon for me 2x11 is the best choise , my next step for me would be the new shimano 2x12 that has even more range , hope get a di2 version also ! Nice video sickbiker keep on doing like that !!!!
there are wide range cassettes (up to 50t cog) available in 10, even 9 speed. For ebikes i even go so far to remove the 11t cog (robs chainline space and has poor engagement). to make the cassette even more narrow. so far my favorite for emtb is 9 speed 13-50t with a 38t chainring. the thicker cogs (1.8 vs 1.6mm can handle the torque far better. gear jumps are huge, but no issue with a strong motor
Interesting point. Thank you for sharing.
I was considering switching my bike to a "one by" system. But after this video, I'll think twice before doing it.
Very impormative.. Please upload more videos..
You are very right!👍
Sickbiker and LoveMtb are one of bests reviewers of bikes
I would put a smaller front sprocket on with and inward offset or shims. Smaller, as the existing one almost hits the frame, which tapers inward going forward so smaller would clear. It is way off so moving the rear cluster out as well should be close to centered. Keep up the good work, drive fast and take chances!
great inputs
Hardtail with 2 x 12 or 2 x 11 is also good enough for bikepacking.
More gear options,cadence and you could convert it to 1x also.
And for someone who only use mtb for recreational use or weekends i even don’t mind using 2 x 9 .
In my country you could purchase 1 x 12 hardtail with deore under 1000usd after tax.
well done. great points, well explained. the chainstay should grow with the size of the bike, most brands keep the same length on all sizes. I refuse to buy a bike like that.
I really like to ride the 2x12 from Shimano, so good that they offer it. I hope they continue that besides the 1x hype. Some 2x compatible frames have to be there as well...
Another Ca subscriber here. Your channel is very informative! I enjoy watching them. Thank you. Just wondering if you're planning on reviewing the Ardent X 10 speed drivetrain?
And I am here with 3x10 SLX grouppo..
The widest range ever😁👍
And still working perfectly I'd bet 👌
Micronew has brifters for 3x11
I’m running the sram 11 speed X1 group set and like it a lot
Personal experience: I had 3x9, 2x10 and 1x11 systems. I always had problems with 2x10. Sometimes (not every day, but it was common) the chain fell down. Once I even broke the front shifter, when I tried shifting in muddy conditions. I did a muddy race with 1x11, the chain was loud, but technically it was as good (or bad) as other systems.
I don’t race. I have a city E bike with a one by 10 . To be honest on the bike path I don’t use the low gears . I have only used the two lowest gears a couple of times. I do agree with what you are saying. Plus with the extra load of the motor helping my old legs the strain on the gears and chain is even worse. Only time will tell how long the tiny bicycle chain lasts with the extra load of the electric motor on this one by setup. Life is short. Enjoy the ride . Thanks for sharing.
Any speed you gain with a 2x, you lose when you drop the chain lol
I feel that
I dropped chains on both sram and shimano clutch derailleurs. Never on 2x.
John DeF I’ve had chans dropped on 2x always in front derailleur for me, maybe I just need better 2x
In fact, 2x drivetrains usually retain better the chain because they have a front derailleur which acts like a chain guide (You will loose the chain if you pedal backwards but same happens with 1x's).
I agree with you I think a 2x10 would be the ultimate less gears on the cassette also allow for a better spoke brace angle
3x10 for me an older racer at over 60 yr gives me a great system 26t,32t, and 40t chainrings with a 11-46 tooth 10 speed cassette. Kind of a closer ratios system but wider than any other system. I got the aluminum chainrings from Blackspire of Canada and they are very tough aluminium chainrings that last a long time with proper care. I normally race in the 32t chainring on the xc course but can downshift to the 26t on extra long steep climbs , or go up to the 40t chainring on very long flat parts of a course on on dirt roads on marathon courses.where I reel in my competition . I love it . I finish on the podium most of the time in my age group and have seen my competitors run out of gears on long climbs and pushing when I'm stll turning my cranks on the 26t chainring, heheh. Likewise my top speed is higher to make up time on long flats when I get the opportunity. And all those parts are far cheaper than the current 1x12 systems. I use XT derailleur/shifter parts and a sunrace 11-46t cassette and he Blackspire chainrings from Canada. I have a raceface crank. Been on that system 6 years now. I'm a consistant podium finisher in racing in my age group and contribute part of that to my system.
I haven't seen an XC world cup won this year with anything but a 1x.
That’s cause everyone is forced to ride 1x12, pros don’t have a choice on what they get to ride. It’s almost the same argument as why disk brakes don’t belong on road bikes
@@isaiascabral8663 yes the pros are "forced" they get no say in their bike set up🤦
@@isaiascabral8663 true ,but those guys have far more power than weekend warrior racers. And they have to race the latest technology to keep their sponsors happy. They can pull off tremendous climbing feats in gears we mere mortals couldnt turn on some courses.
@sickbiker - you can do a better test using power meter and show us how much is being lost (few people did say that). Also some weight penalty and always more maintenance.
That angle is really extreme on your 1x12 set up. On my Ripley its not anywhere near as bad. But, it is still noticeable and is certainly a source of considerable friction. I'm going to speculate that 2 speed rear hubs are coming and are going to be the next big development in drivetrains. Hopefully, that can make some changes in chainline as part of a whole system improvement.
More wear and more money for the companies.
I agree with you but disagree with most of the comments here. If you are a XC racer then 2x makes a lot more sense than 1x. For example, one person wanted to know why not stick with 2x or 3x groupsets that keep chains straighter. Well, because for most riders it won't matter and if you are a downhill/enduro/trail rider then you care even less. Tire width, rolling resistance, and weight make a lot more difference (measurable on a power meter) than the chain line.
its all quantitative sciense here
Suggestion for a video: do a video comparing weight\cost\durability with a 1-10 score for trail parts.
Remember that on a 2x system, the chain is not straight in the middle of the cassette. The question is really how hilly vs flat the course is to go from 1x being less efficient than 2x. A time trialist uses 1x on a flat stretch because it's more efficient.
Totally agree on that the standard tolerances could be tighter around the cassette.
The system is designed to run with the chian at an angle like that, If you want to give a valid view you should have tested with power meter pedals and a power hub, on both systems then measire the difference.
But it is logical that once the chain bends it becomes less efficient. I can feel that in my legs, on a 10 speed casette.
Yes i have to agree that in Pro XC competitions, 2x setup is the best. Althou i use 1x11 Deore M5100. But the thing is im only a RECREATIONAL RIDER.
I notice it in my fsi with xtr di2, the alignment of the chain in the large sprocket is very forced and in fact in the 4 largest sprockets the chain rubs with the upper sprocket, with the other 7 lower sprockets being the chain in those sprockets He does not rub against the superior and his posture is more forced. Very good videos yours, greetings from the Canary Islands
Great demonstration! I never even paid attention to the details like on the front ring the small teeth for the narrow links, my bike teeth links are set correct but is it possible if you drop a chain and in a rush have the narrow link on the bigger teeth or will it not work? Wow, that explains even on road bikes all the noise now a days. My 15 year old road bike triple front ring 9 rear set up is sooooo much more quite then my new 2x 11 set up. 🤙
Totally agree for marathons 2x11 is excellent. 26-38T and 10 -50T in the back, I have it in the same bike you show and I love it! You can climb and also you have huge power for flats!
What type of hub format do you have micro spline?
@@paulb9769 That would be normal Shimano HG freehub.
11 speed is nearly always standard Shimano HG.
I think in the future we will see bendable chainring technology, like flexible spacers that allow the chain to get into a more natural angle with the cogs
I can see a flexible chainring can lead to drop chains. One possible solution would be the machine the chain ring and and cogs at a slight degree angle so it would appear straight when paired.
The future will be chainless chains
@@rourose They’re called “Belt Drive” and they’re available now from Gates.
yep.. let's have bendable chainrings that grind into the frame.. lol.
I am flipping back to a double chainring. Really nice to be able to dump or gain a whole heap of ratios in one click. Also means i only run 11-42 cassette which is lighter than a 50+ tooth.
But what about the extra chain ring and screws on the drive train then? And the shifter+front derailleur+cable?
@@Masterfighterx Sure, running a 26/36 front ringset and shifter set weighs more than XTR 12 speed, but also is sooooo much cheaper. My bike is a 2018 Merida, so getting a good chainline requires huge ring spacing.
Still running 2x11,2x10,3x9 on our bikes.
1x doesn't make sense an noticed some of my friends struggling on climbing more wit 1x.
The pizza cassette has got to go.
Bigger chainrigs, sprockets save you wats. So while you loose some on the bad chainline you win some from big chainring- big sprocket combo. You should go wery sientific to get a concludent result!
So, there's a tiny advantage to 2x. Worth putting up with the poor chain retention, cluttered left hand 'bar for? Worth the restrictions to suspension pivot placement and hardtail geo for?
For me, not even remotely close. The chain-retention thing alone is enough to make 1x worthwhile. For me anyway.
Also, 1x isn't new. I was one of the last of my riding mates to move to 1x, back in 2002! Others had got there years and years before me. We had no narrow-wide rings or clutch mechs but the multi-ring chainsets were so bad we adapted whatever we could get to go single and get rid of them. No one I ever met in person ever went back to multis.
Finally, the MTB market is catching up with its customers!!
Me who just upgraded my square type 3x9 setup to Shimano 44-32-22 hollowtech 👀 haha. quiet heavy than 1by setup but still loving them.
I will never go 1x on any bike. I own 3x7, 3x9, 2x10, 3x10 and more and more I see the utility and advantages of the 3x's - makes available the lowest friction gear at any speed.
2x for marathon XC racing is a must. WC XC racing? Maybe it doesn't matter as much for shorter races but then again, Van Aert was still on 2x long after the majority of the CX field was on 1x.
I agree with you. I have a 3x7 and most of my riding is on relatively flat land. The half-step gearing between the middle and large chainrings allows me to keep a steady pedaling effort on the terrain I ride. And when it gets steep, I can drop onto the small chainring.
Congrats you still live in mid century. Go for 1x12
@@nilog8587 Hey now...
Tbh I dont care about the watts, I just see how every single tooth is screaming save me
I saw 2 researches with power measurements, one tells that chainline doesn’t play a huge role in power losses, other says that the biggest difference in power loss is around 10-12 watts and is measured on smallest cogs, where chainline is also not tragicaly curved
I'm happy that 3x is out, that's way too much. 2x is ok. I haven't really tried 1x yet, but I'm hopefully about to have a 1x bike by Wednesday.
What I look forward to is not having to think about switching gears on the front and matching it with the rear and the biggest rings will most likely not be used often by me, I think I only used the lowest gears on my last 2x 1 or 2 times in just shy of a year before it got stolen. And then it will also be much easier to clean that area.
The 2 things that bothers me the most is the possibility of it not being with 1x12 fully in mind so it doesn't line up perfectly and the fact that it has pressfit BB, but PF works fine for some while it's a squeaking pain for others.
I can't really have anything but a 1x at the budget I have and with the specs I want.
remove one gear from the cassette..but retain the shifter and deraileur... put a spacer to push cassette outward... adjust the deraileur Low limit... so now u got 11 gear with slight better improvement in the chain line....
Great video. I just upgraded from a 1 x 11 32, 11-40 to a 34, 10-50. Big difference, not sure if I like it.
Using a 30t front chainring should allow you to push it inboard. Sacrificing top end, of course.
Well, i race alot and its not very often i use The 50 tooth gear on 12x drivetrain. Maybe in some cases but i always switch my front chainring depending om what race i am doing. Xco race with alot of steep climbs = 34tooth front or Maybe 32 if it is very steep and long. But mostly i use 36 or even 38 but that is more for marathon races which is flat and very fast. Definately agree with that The chain line is fked up on The light gears! Solution: lower cadence and bigger gears 😉
Also, on The axs system you can se in The app how much time you spend on all The gears which is Great for opting out for The correct size on The front chainring.
And for those People Who use 2x drivetrain... Well. 1x drivetrain is so much better because you Will have less trouble changing gears and dropping The chain. Totally worth The upgrade all time! Maybe better chain line but i really Wonder how many watts you loose when riding those lighter gears
I do the same in order to use as least as possible the 50t gear to put less stress on the chain.
I use 30t on XCO races and 32 or 34 on Marathon (not even tried 36 in my life, no thanks)
@@ManuelMartinez09 Yes it all depends on how strong you are ofc and what prefered cadence you use! And ofc how flat and fast rolled the course is :)
I have a 1x12 on my Norco Revolver and rarely find myself using anything bigger than the 10th gear unless the climb is really big/steep.
I change my front chainring anywhere from a 32 to a 36 depending on the track.
@@nathanielrobbins4478 yes. Only when it gets really steep ofc 👍
@@jespero94 Exactly. I dont' want to give up gear range and "hope" that the course is not varied enough to need a wider range of gears. And I don't want to change chainrings for every race as I don't have a mechanic doing it for me like a pro, hehe. My 3x10 speed close ratio 26,32,40 chainrings and 11-46 10 speed cassette provide a huge range for me without the expense or friction of a 12 speed system and the chains don't break from stress like on 1 x 12systems.
I agree 1x11 and 1x12 is not as efficient as 2x10. I am going through 2 drivetrains per year and replacing chains every 3 months... may consider going back...
LOL. I look forward to seeing all these people celebrating 2x systems standing on the podiums... Really, I do... :-D
I won a marathon xc race on 2x somewhat recently. Finished 2nd in the series and the only one that I know of on 2x. I also have a 1x race bike but prefer the old stuff.
of course there is the "marketing conspiracy" element of this...they can't because sponsors want them on the new stuff.
@@metamurph bahahahahahahahahahahahahah.
3x9 is the good ol solution then :)
If the chain ring could float side to side that would be great for the chainline
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, if they can make a design that works reliably, that would be a game-changer in the 1x system. If possible, it might most likely be used with the electronic wireless drivechains to control that chain ring float.
Now I have a great excuse!
Seems to me that my old 3x9 chain rings match up nicely with my 9-speed cassette so that the each chain line has 3 cogs centered for better mechanical performance. Is that your point? Maybe less is more.
1. In a muddy or bumpy conditions there's a high chance of FD malfunction including chaindrop or chain jumping up and downwards. 1x wins
2. On punchy climbs that are usual for XC you have to push a lot of watts, same as rolling resistance, friction is a constant and depends on chainline, meaning you have much higher relative loss if you push 250W vs 800W. 2x wins but slightly
3. Again, on punchy climbs you have to react fast to rapid descend or attack, and changing gears under load with RD is much more reliable than with FD + you don't have time. This is the reason why in road racing such climbs are often attacked on big chainring with huge bend in chainline. 1x wins
4. Regarding the range which allows you to pedal comfortably or with bigger range of gears, 2x obviously wins.
The bend for 1x12 is crazy and assymetrical chainstays is a really cool solution, but in my opinion 1x11 is fine as it is. You might need different chainring or cassette depending on the course, but other that that I see no problem in 1x for racing purposes. It might be less efficient but it certainly more reliable.
1x is lighter too.
Your point #4 is my Achilles heel with the 1x, I have a bunch of rings: 30, 32, 34 and 36, some oval and round, I play with them a lot and sometimes feel like I never get a sweet spot.
im not going to give up 1x
it would be great to see a 1x and 2x with a thermal camera to see all that friction heating the chain
Its better to have a very smaller BB size i have an 118mm bb and 9speed and my chain is bending on my granny gear but if it shift at the biggest ring it stables so yep make sure to check the BB size or if your bike is fitted to have more speed drivetrain nuff said
short chainstay bikes don't have plenty of room for chainring sizes and chainline is more pronounced.
my 2014 cannondale trail 7 still able to do 1x setup with ease. [ztto 11-50t, stone 38t oval, shimano xt m8000 11spd, shimano xtr 12spd chain]
This is why I see so many 3x 2x bikes with a lot less wear than my 1x bikes.. I have a 3x 90s mtb that shows no wear at all...
Moment of a Force
Crosschain can also wear out the chain easily
Seems like in any 1xX set up that it would make the most sense for the front sprocket to be aligned with the center of the cassette. Would that be a fair assumption?
Well I believe you are right.
But what I think people want is less stuff. One shift and a dropper what most people are talking about.
They say you get better climbing with one by but I don't think there right the math don't add up if there using say a 11 to 46 with a 3x
Because you get a much smaller chain ring and you also get a better chain line but what a old ass 50 year old biker knew
I have 2×10 on 29er. The lightest gear is 36 in back and 26 in front, thus 1,38 and I must nearly lie on bars to prevent tilting backwards and concentrate on circular pedalling to not have back wheel in skid. Using typical lightest combination of 1×12: 51/32 = 1,59 is insane and I want to see someone using it regularly.
WISH WE HAD A COMPARISON OF A 2x - I'll take your word for it - that's how they designed it. Takeaway - if you're climbing make sure you're in low range!
Problem is bike manufacturers are not giving us the CHOICE. They are taking the choice away from us. Every high end frame is 1X only.
so maybe you dont need a high end frame
2x10, front 22-36, rear 11-42 on my GT Avalanche
@Spitch Grizwald Its serving me good, i sometimes use 22 front, 42 back (1x1) on steep uphills, mostly going 1x4 on gravel road and 2x3 or 4 on asphalt uphills, tires i am using are schwalbe nobby nic front, smart sam back, 29x2.25 size
Don't like how the chain rests. Was thinking of changing mine to a 1 x but will stick with the 2x
Just curious how many watts you will loose for 1x12s on 50t cog chain line friction?
I race xc, for me 3x10(40-30-22 /11-36) 2x12(36-26/ 10-45) work better with wide gear range.
1X12 best for xco race and trail ride for faster shifting, only if you know how to use it... I will wait for the next generation shimano 1x14 speed, 9-56t cog maybe, or maybe 1x16😆
For commuting i removed 4 cogs from a 10 speed cassette to create an 11-36 6 speed cassette thats an inch and a quarter wide. On another bike i removed the least used gear which stopped the chain from grinding the outside of the chainring in 1st.🙏
That's one way to go single ring.
No good for keeping up on group rides obvs but its light reliable and cheap with a handlebar mounted friction shifter. I'd go single speed but theres hills in every direction around here!
I am on a 10 speed with a 28 tooth chainring and an 11/46 cassette . I should have just stuck with an 11/42 as the the 46 tooth cog has a poor chain
line as far as I am concerned . If you could develop a pivoting cassette that would change its angle depending on the chain line angle . It would probably have to part of the detailer system moving in lock step with the detailer
lol since when does a larger cog influence chain line???
Hi! first off all, excellent video as always! second... do you have any problem with that specialized wheels?, my rear hub (roval traverse 12x148) always have movement... i adjusted and in a few rides the movement start again, what can you tell me about that... it is fixable?, do i need to change my hub and forget it? thanks and sorry but english is not my first language
Not having to deal with front derailleurs is worth it to me.
I have this problem, especially with the two smallest cogs on my XO1 (never use the largest cog). The chain rubs against the larger cog up the cassette. It's extremely annoying. I feel like the sound only already sucks the energy out of me. Do they actually test these things?! I think about using a larger chainring now.
2x10 all the way
I swapped 3x10 to 2x10 and was great, but barely needed the small front. Took a few years off now back and thinking to convert to 1x but not sure. Got the ultra climb if needed. And really the weight means nothing lol. lose 3lbs move water bottle to back or waist and it's the same lol