If you have a high mileage car or plan on keeping the car a long time, don't forget the CVT paper filter located underneath the battery, and also another filter located inside the CVT fluid pan. Longer job but probably should do it every 100000 miles or so, even if you follow the severe CVT fluid change interval.
There is no mention of these filters in the service manual and Mitsi dealer say it’s not necessary, only fluids. It’s in their best interest to replace them and charge more but they don’t. Thoughts?
@@chiquicat1 It's in their best interest for you to buy a new car from them, instead of driving your car to the limit of what it is capable of. Remember there are many fluids and parts that manufacturers call "lifetime." But that usually just means they will at least last until the warranty is up. If there is a filter anywhere, that means it's used to catch something. If you plan on getting the longest life out of your car you might as well change it since cleaner fluid with no filter restriction is always better either way. If you don't plan on keeping the same car for hundreds of thousands of miles, then it probably doesn't matter too much as long as you do the proper maintenance of changing fluid and don't overheat the transmission too much.
If I change those filters you mentioned , do you know how much cvt fluid I would need to buy? I see that the simple drain and fill is about 4 1/2 quarts. Thanks
Many thanks for this clear video. I have a 2011 and rolling at 112k miles since 43k miles when I brought it. Great vehicle. Decided to stop taking to service dept for that as I don't trust myself around CVT but did not realize it's easy as change engine oil.
@@MaciejPiotrowski Right on. I've done some works by myself around vehicles but never has been around CVT before and this was my first time with CVT... I did not know it has one after purchasing my Outlander and found out about it few days later lol.
I was reading through the service manual for the Mitsubishi and I learned this is not a good method. They recommend that you disconnect the hose from the top transmission cooler and let the engine run for about 1 minute. Then you remove the drain pan and get more fluid out. You should be able to get about 5 quarts of dirty transmission fluid that way instead of just two.
is it possible you can show how one would do that method your describing in a video? I would like to see your method in a video, i'm purchasing a used 2019 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport with 49k miles and I want to know which is the best way to preserve the transmission, thank you! If you can show me where I can find the manual of such said car it would be very appreciated as well!!
No mention in my service manual about these filters and Mitsi dealer say they never change them. Only fluids. But I tend to agree that replacing them might be best as fluids are only replaced every 90k which seems a lot of miles in the same oil time.
the filter under the battery, sure, but there's really no reason to drop the pan for the metal filter unless you're experiencing issues. If the filter in the pan is clogged up, then you have bigger issues to worry about.
Good video. I would add that measuring the amount that comes out and then adding the same amount in doesn't seem like a good procedure. If the transmission was at an improper level before you start then you'll end up with an improperly filled transmission when you finish the job. Also, you'll get different results depending on if the engine was warmed up or cold or if it had recently shifted through gears or not. You'd be better off checking the transmission dipstick following the proper procedure.
Yea, that whole part simply shows the level of the mechanic. But it also shows where the location of the drain plug which is what I was after. So the same advice - this is internet
The Mitsubishi CVTs seem to be holding up very well. The exact same engine and trans is in the Delica D5 (from 2007 onwards) and in Australia guys regularly towing boats and caravans long distances are reporting no problems even beyond 250,000kms
Just got back from the Mitsubishi dealer here in Japan with a bit of information you all might find helpful. Although it's cheaper and pretty straight forward draining and filling the CVT fluid yourself, almost half of the fluid remains in the transmission when you do it that way. At my dealer(I'm guessing all Mitsubishi dealers) when they change the CVT fluid, they change all the fluid using a machine they have there which comes out to about 8 litres of dirty fluid pushed out. So although more expensive your CVT fluid will be completely changed, instead of a only a bit more than half if you do it yourself. Which makes me wonder if your CVT change interval suggested by Mitsubishi at 30,000km for severe use, will technically drop down to 15,000km if your only doing it yourself and leaving almost half the dirty fluid left inside. Personally, I choose the dealer for regular CVT fluid changes as I want completely clean fluid. But for changing the cooler and pan filters, I say do it yourself to save money.
I asked a Mitsubishi dealership in Oregon. I found out hey don't flush the whole system. They do exactly shown in the video drain and fill instead. The truth is most owners probably will never change their fluid every 50k miles. So if you do it regularly under 50K or even 30k in later years would be sufficient without flushing everything out.
Simple fill and drain is the factory specified procedure. Dealers will find any way of charging more than is necessary. Yes, of course fresh fluid is "better" but going by your rationale of intervals doing doing a full flush should (in that theory) double the interval not halve the factory specified interval and procedure.
Good day! Thanks for the video. I have question. When I drain crv fluid on my 2011 RVR I collected 5 quarts. But in your video it’s only about 4.2 quarts. Not sure if I follow 5 quarts or 4.2. Thanks
Hey mate, my outlander done 110k never had service, was thinking doing this weekend, got everything including mitsubushi cvt oil, still safe to do? By the way, great video
Great video. Is there a washer for the drain plug? I read somewhere that there's one but when draining the fluid on my 2011 Outlander ES, I did not see a washer.
hey mike as i can tell you know what your talking about im wondering if you know what the transmission pan bolts should be torqued to? sorry to ask just cant find this info anywhere.thanks
@@m8neak Here you can find the specs. www.autozone.com/repairguides/Mitsubishi-Outlander-2003-06/Engine-Mechanical-Components/Oil-Pan/_/P-0996b43f80381122
I would never do that. Manual suggests drain and fill atf at 30k. I do that every 80k. I know people that never change atf and their car runs great too. I'm not keeping this car longer then 120k so this was my last change.
Do you think it would be similar on a 2018 outlander sport? I’m going to be doing this next weekend and this is the best video I’ve found! Thank you so much. I’ve saved it for later 🥰
Hello sir. Good day! I just want to ask every when do i need to change the ATF in Mitsubishi Outlander. My car is running around 186000 km. Thanks and God bless
Thanks for this AWESOME video. Quick question, 2010 Outlander SE has 155k, transportation fluid never changed. Would you recommend drain and fill or leave it alone? Thank you.
@@litreocola Because all the gunk that is sealing you transmission would cause gaps in ATF to open. Google it and decide for yourself. I've always done it at about 40 to 50 K.
@@MaciejPiotrowski Are you referring to a fluid flush or fluid change? I read this was more of a concern with older American transmissions when doing a fluid flush.
Hi, I have a 2019 2.4L with CVT 27,000 miles. Last day I changed the transmission oil with the dealer and they charged me 8 fluid. I saw you change yours with 4 and a half quarts. What's happend here???
Manual nic nie mowi zeby wymieniac jakis filter tylko sposcic i nalac nowy. Od 20 lat tak robie we wszystkich moich samochodach i nigdy nie mialem problemu.
@@MaciejPiotrowski it always a guess. someone say don't do it someone say do it. I've been changing some time now. right now at 240k miles. first transmission light come out at 160k then disappeared and the light is back as of 2 days ago. I'm changing oil now. hope it will run for many more miles
I'm hearing grinding noise at my 2015 Mitsubishi outlander sport and I'm getting paranoid lol. I saw my CVT and it's really low. You think that's making the noise when i accelerate? Even when i accelerate it's really hard.
my mechanic said they want to flush it and asking they will add 8 Liters of transoil seeing this it's just 4 Liters? my mechanic said they wont do drain and refill , as they say i might come back and chase them with trans problems. They will only do it transmission flush 7-8L " we will only do it properly" now im confuse with my manual and mechanic
Hello, a question, please, I have a 2010 truck with a damaged transmission and they are selling me a 2013, if they are the same, who can help me with this?
May I ask what is so special about this oil? Also, my 2010 Outlander does not have a CVT transmission but the dealer says it needs this special oil. Can anyone help me, I cannot afford a $300 ATF flush. Thank you!
According to my research, transmission in any car is sensitive to transmission fluid. That means is that you should not mix it or substitute it with different brand or type or you can damage your transmission. Most people I know do not change transmission fluid at all. Why? Cause they usually sell their car before 80k. Then it's not their problem. I keep my cars until around 110k so I follow the book and do transmission drain and fill, not flush as recommended b a dealer. Why again? As I said before, you should not mix different fluids, but how it's possible not to have fluid contamination at the dealer when they use the same machine to flush fluids an all kinds of cars and they use all kinds of fluids. So to me it makes no sense to do flush. Book says do drain and fill and I do that. I buy my ATF at the dealer for about $15 per quart. And I really do it once at around 80k. By the time this has to be done again, my car is sold. Hope this helps.
You wrote "good for V6 Outlander" on a bottle. V6 Outlander uses a 6 speed non-CVT transmission and uses a totally different fluid that is NOT compatible with the one you are using for your CVT.
Your engine is a inline 4 cylinder (I4). V4 doesn't exist for the Outlander nor for any Mitsubishi application. That is another mistake. Anyways good video.
You are correct. I did not remove entire oil but drained as much as I could. This is recommended in my manual and I have no problem with transmission. I was just showing how to do drain and fill my way. You have a choice to do it as I showed or completely draining it as you indicate. Thank you for your comment.
The correct manufacturer procedure with EVERY auto trans is to do a simple drain and refill. Some, like ZF themselves, specify a second drain/refill a few hundred kms later. The notion to try and drain every single component that might be holding oil is from ill-informed diy rationale. The idea that old fluid "contaminates" new fluid is total nonsense, you simply have a mix of fresh and old fluid whcih is within the design spec of both the trans and the fluid. The exception is if you have damaged parts like clutch material or metal then a full flush, including the torque converter, is imperative.
Any power will be cut down to reduce damage to the cvt. No power off the line and really struggles with any torque resembling fun at any rpm. Owned a 2.4 cvt Lancer for 5 years and I am so over it. Getting a dual clutch turbo car 100%
@@chiquicat1 You car must have had real problems. I have the 2008 2.4L 4B12 and CVT in the Delica D5 that weighs 1.8tons and it is peppy and will happily tow trailers over 1 ton.
Maciej: how big is your millage and what type of milage it is - motorways, city, loaded vehicle etc. I ask as this vehicle makes sense for me but I see so much bad opinions about it. Let me know how hard it was to maintain it - CVT engine etc. It is reasonably priced in Japan, where I live right now. Pozdrowienia z Tokio ;)
Now I have about 88k miles. 90% driving in the city. I have no problems with it. So far I had to replace struts and starter. The only problem with it is that it was made in Japan so tire camber is set up that tires wear out in the outside more then on inside. All Mitshubishi cars produced in Japan have this problem. Bad specs. I had to put camber bolts to reduce is. It's not perfect but now I get about 35k miles on set of tires. Pozdrowienia z Florydy.
- Choć minęło już trochę czasu wtrącę się do Waszej dyskusji pisząc po polsku jak przystało na obywatela Polski , ponieważ nie wstydzę się swojego języka 🤨. Również jestem posiadaczem Outlandera 2 l. ale kupionego w Polsce i nie mam z tym autem żadnych problemów eksploatacyjnych jak tutaj kolega opisuje . Auto moje sprawuje się znakomicie ,mało pali benzyny ,nic się nie psuje, na fabrycznych oponach letnich❗ przejechałem 70 tys.km. i nic się nie dzieje ... Natomiast niestosowne opinie o autach , mówiąc ogólnie , najczęściej piszą osoby co znają auta jedynie ze zdjęć na " YT" . Pzdr. z Polski.
I'm not a mechanic but I never take a chance of mixing different transmission oil then specified in manual book. CVT is very sensitive to that not like engine oil.
J4 Is updated version of J1 you can definitely use it, I use it on my 2011 Mitsubishi outlander sport no issues but because fluid is so expensive and no close dealers around here I’m switching to Amsoil CVT fluid it says it’s compatible and I’m planning on to flush it twice just to drain oem fluid.as much as possible.
For jag xtypes change 2 L There is a standpipe in the trans pan so its simple 2L will come out put 2L back in This keeps the hydraulics fresh and the friction material stays inside !! To get the rubber fill cap off you need a very very long pointed long nose plyers!! Cheets!!
@@MaciejPiotrowski You didn't state that it had to be up to operating temperature. Trans fluid expands a lot when hot and reading it right after starting (like you described in the vid) will result in over-filling.
No I did not, because according to manual you should drain and fill. Also, I've owned cars for the past 30 years and never changed ATF filters. I only drain and fill and have never had problems.
First, CVT fluid from a dealer would be most expensive. Second, it is useless to partial refill. Third, you need to open the pan and clean out the two magnets on the inside. Fourth, learn something about CVT on your car and replace the second fine filter, housed inside heat exchanger, then clean up main filter, located under the oil pan. Those transmissions don't need any service until they reach around 200K km. You want to circulate the fresh oil out of the transmission until you see it running relatively clean, then stop and fill it up with fresh fluid, could be done by disconnecting one of the hoses to oil cooler. Sorry to tell it is useless video mostly...
Thank you for your comments. I show how I do it, and I do what is recommended in Mitsubishi manual, which is drain and fill. You are free to do whatever you wish on your car.
@@dereksteiger1 you go and talk to your dealer in your specific country, as mine said CVT does not need any maintenance up until 160K mark, then they offer partial fluid change, not even cleaning or replacing any filters. Do you know why?! Right, because out of 160K mark the warranty is done and they want you to buy a new car from them. Listen to them more and you sure are either paying heavily for major repairs or buying a new car...
"Don't dump the used oil on the grass at the auto parts store", lol. Great vid, I have a 2016 Mitsu Outlander which is the same process.
Did you change the trans filter?
Yep only morons do that
If you have a high mileage car or plan on keeping the car a long time, don't forget the CVT paper filter located underneath the battery, and also another filter located inside the CVT fluid pan. Longer job but probably should do it every 100000 miles or so, even if you follow the severe CVT fluid change interval.
There is no mention of these filters in the service manual and Mitsi dealer say it’s not necessary, only fluids. It’s in their best interest to replace them and charge more but they don’t. Thoughts?
@@chiquicat1 It's in their best interest for you to buy a new car from them, instead of driving your car to the limit of what it is capable of. Remember there are many fluids and parts that manufacturers call "lifetime." But that usually just means they will at least last until the warranty is up. If there is a filter anywhere, that means it's used to catch something. If you plan on getting the longest life out of your car you might as well change it since cleaner fluid with no filter restriction is always better either way. If you don't plan on keeping the same car for hundreds of thousands of miles, then it probably doesn't matter too much as long as you do the proper maintenance of changing fluid and don't overheat the transmission too much.
@@keifuchan7265 wise words
Hi
Did you have to take the battery out to change the filter or could you do the change with the battery still in the car? Thanks.
If I change those filters you mentioned , do you know how much cvt fluid I would need to buy? I see that the simple drain and fill is about 4 1/2 quarts. Thanks
Many thanks for this clear video. I have a 2011 and rolling at 112k miles since 43k miles when I brought it. Great vehicle.
Decided to stop taking to service dept for that as I don't trust myself around CVT but did not realize it's easy as change engine oil.
It's just as easy as changing oil. If you can change oil you can change CVT.
@@MaciejPiotrowski Right on. I've done some works by myself around vehicles but never has been around CVT before and this was my first time with CVT... I did not know it has one after purchasing my Outlander and found out about it few days later lol.
Did the same thing, but bought a two quart graduated container, works perfectly
Just bought a MItsubishi. Great video very well done, keep it up.
Thank you 🙏 I was over thinking this.
I'm glad I could help.
porque hacer la medida con botellas, si tiene su varilla con la medida indicada?
much love fellow palmbeach county
I was reading through the service manual for the Mitsubishi and I learned this is not a good method. They recommend that you disconnect the hose from the top transmission cooler and let the engine run for about 1 minute. Then you remove the drain pan and get more fluid out. You should be able to get about 5 quarts of dirty transmission fluid that way instead of just two.
is it possible you can show how one would do that method your describing in a video? I would like to see your method in a video, i'm purchasing a used 2019 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport with 49k miles and I want to know which is the best way to preserve the transmission, thank you! If you can show me where I can find the manual of such said car it would be very appreciated as well!!
Awesome video. Thanks for making it.
Glad you liked it!
You can just open the overfill plug. Once you add enough, you'll see ATF coming off the overfill. No need for all those measurements 😅
There is also a trans oil cooler filter under the battery tray!
Good job, but you have to change the the two filters as well, the metal filter at the oil pan, and the cardboard filter under the battery
No mention in my service manual about these filters and Mitsi dealer say they never change them. Only fluids. But I tend to agree that replacing them might be best as fluids are only replaced every 90k which seems a lot of miles in the same oil time.
the filter under the battery, sure, but there's really no reason to drop the pan for the metal filter unless you're experiencing issues. If the filter in the pan is clogged up, then you have bigger issues to worry about.
Hi. On the dipstick it says to use only fluid J1, why did you use J4?
“ it’s not a brain surgery”. Thanks for the video
Helpful, thanks
Great video!!
You have to change filter inside the transmision, and one below the batery.. very important.
What about the filter/filters??
I never change any filters. Manual calls for drain and fill with no filter replacements.I do it twice up to 100k and I always sell my car after 100k
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Good video. I would add that measuring the amount that comes out and then adding the same amount in doesn't seem like a good procedure.
If the transmission was at an improper level before you start then you'll end up with an improperly filled transmission when you finish the job. Also, you'll get different results depending on if the engine was warmed up or cold or if it had recently shifted through gears or not.
You'd be better off checking the transmission dipstick following the proper procedure.
Yea, that whole part simply shows the level of the mechanic. But it also shows where the location of the drain plug which is what I was after. So the same advice - this is internet
Do we need to change it after every 40000 miles or not ?
@@windowandmobile yes.
100 percent correct !! Would not add exactly what came out
Thanks !
What is the transmission drain bolt torque specs?
what is the true when changing the CVT fluid. 4.5 liters or 7.1 liters?
are the CVT-s reliable on these cars?
I don't know. My car has 95k miles and it works fine.
@@MaciejPiotrowski what year your car is?
@@pufarinu 2010
The Mitsubishi CVTs seem to be holding up very well. The exact same engine and trans is in the Delica D5 (from 2007 onwards) and in Australia guys regularly towing boats and caravans long distances are reporting no problems even beyond 250,000kms
Just got back from the Mitsubishi dealer here in Japan with a bit of information you all might find helpful. Although it's cheaper and pretty straight forward draining and filling the CVT fluid yourself, almost half of the fluid remains in the transmission when you do it that way. At my dealer(I'm guessing all Mitsubishi dealers) when they change the CVT fluid, they change all the fluid using a machine they have there which comes out to about 8 litres of dirty fluid pushed out. So although more expensive your CVT fluid will be completely changed, instead of a only a bit more than half if you do it yourself. Which makes me wonder if your CVT change interval suggested by Mitsubishi at 30,000km for severe use, will technically drop down to 15,000km if your only doing it yourself and leaving almost half the dirty fluid left inside. Personally, I choose the dealer for regular CVT fluid changes as I want completely clean fluid. But for changing the cooler and pan filters, I say do it yourself to save money.
Keifu Chan thank u for the valuable info
I asked a Mitsubishi dealership in Oregon. I found out hey don't flush the whole system. They do exactly shown in the video drain and fill instead. The truth is most owners probably will never change their fluid every 50k miles. So if you do it regularly under 50K or even 30k in later years would be sufficient without flushing everything out.
Simple fill and drain is the factory specified procedure. Dealers will find any way of charging more than is necessary. Yes, of course fresh fluid is "better" but going by your rationale of intervals doing doing a full flush should (in that theory) double the interval not halve the factory specified interval and procedure.
Did you see if there is filters
@manan007, you better find another dealership then because the one I went to does flush it out for 300 bucks.
Does the sump plug have a crush washer?
Good day!
Thanks for the video.
I have question. When I drain crv fluid on my 2011 RVR I collected 5 quarts. But in your video it’s only about 4.2 quarts. Not sure if I follow 5 quarts or 4.2.
Thanks
You always put as much as you drain. Remember I have different car than yours.
Maciej Piotrowski thank very much for reply. Did you wait until no more oil draining?
I ask the dealership they say it shouldn’t be 5 quarts.
Hey mate, my outlander done 110k never had service, was thinking doing this weekend, got everything including mitsubushi cvt oil, still safe to do? By the way, great video
It's your call. I'm not mechanic.
Great video. Is there a washer for the drain plug? I read somewhere that there's one but when draining the fluid on my 2011 Outlander ES, I did not see a washer.
Yes there is a washer. I damaged original one so I had to buy new copper once few years back. It's super cheap and I use it all the time.
@@MaciejPiotrowski Thank you!
@@MaciejPiotrowski Did you buy your washer from Mitsubishi dealership?
@@mkbdiy9766 No, you go to advanced auto part and buy it for super cheap.
@@MaciejPiotrowski Thanks!
This work for 2008 eclipse se? The dip stick is in the same spot
same principal applies to all cars
I have 85,000 miles on my 2.0, and never did a drain and fill. Is it too late?
I change mine every 50k. I would do it if you plan to keep the car for the next few years.
Need to drop the pan and clean filter + Magnets very important
I only do drain and fill as recommended by manual. You are free to clean magnets if you wish. I just show they way I did it.
hey mike as i can tell you know what your talking about im wondering if you know what the transmission pan bolts should be torqued to? sorry to ask just cant find this info anywhere.thanks
@@m8neak I need to look in my repair manual. give me day or two and I will let you know
@@m8neak Here you can find the specs. www.autozone.com/repairguides/Mitsubishi-Outlander-2003-06/Engine-Mechanical-Components/Oil-Pan/_/P-0996b43f80381122
Do you also need the engine keep running while checking the level of the CVT transmission oil?
No. I turn it off and quickly check the level.
@@MaciejPiotrowski thank you for the information. Last question. Your outlanders engine is 4b12 (2.4 DOHC)?
@@hendriksaldua8208 yes
@@MaciejPiotrowski Thanks
underneath the battery bracket is the oil filter. should have change it too.
Isnt the filter inside the transmission oil pan?
@@bluebishi there is also one inside, but one filter is in the transmission oil cooler. my ASX has this option.
@@denberholfule4551 thanks guy
You don't need to change the filters?
I don't. If you want to change filters, sure you can do that.
Hi would you ever take the sump pan down and clean the filter inside ? If so what mileage would you do that ? Thanks
I would never do that. Manual suggests drain and fill atf at 30k. I do that every 80k. I know people that never change atf and their car runs great too. I'm not keeping this car longer then 120k so this was my last change.
what about a complete flush? i want to do that to mine.
You can do whatever you wish. I did drain and fill as recommended by car manual.
Do you think it would be similar on a 2018 outlander sport? I’m going to be doing this next weekend and this is the best video I’ve found! Thank you so much. I’ve saved it for later 🥰
I think it should be the same
Brother No Complite Transmission oil drin
2 .5 liter oil in Convetor inside Gare
i have outlander 2013 already i change transmission fluid do u think change filter as well
no, i don't change filter
Hello sir. Good day! I just want to ask every when do i need to change the ATF in Mitsubishi Outlander. My car is running around 186000 km.
Thanks and God bless
ATF should be changed every 50000km. If you have never changed it I would not do it now or you will have transmission problems. It's too late.
@@MaciejPiotrowski thank you so much it's a big help 🙂
No lleva filtro ?
Thanks for this AWESOME video. Quick question, 2010 Outlander SE has 155k, transportation fluid never changed. Would you recommend drain and fill or leave it alone? Thank you.
If you never changed ATF I would not do it now.
@@MaciejPiotrowski Why?
@@litreocola Because all the gunk that is sealing you transmission would cause gaps in ATF to open. Google it and decide for yourself. I've always done it at about 40 to 50 K.
@@MaciejPiotrowski Are you referring to a fluid flush or fluid change? I read this was more of a concern with older American transmissions when doing a fluid flush.
@@litreocola I'm not a mechanic so you may be correct. Again, in my video I just showed how I did it. What you chose to do is up to you.
Hi, I have a 2019 2.4L with CVT 27,000 miles. Last day I changed the transmission oil with the dealer and they charged me 8 fluid. I saw you change yours with 4 and a half quarts. What's happend here???
Good question. Ask the dealer. They may have done CVT flush which uses more fluid. Totally unnecessary in my opinion.
A nie czeba wymienić filter? Czy jest filter?
Manual nic nie mowi zeby wymieniac jakis filter tylko sposcic i nalac nowy. Od 20 lat tak robie we wszystkich moich samochodach i nigdy nie mialem problemu.
I have 160k miles. Bought it at 100. I never changed this fluid, don’t know about previous owner. You think it’s bad idea to change it now?
If it was never done I would not do it. Too late. You may have transmission problems. I'm not a mechanic so double check with a mechanic.
@@MaciejPiotrowski it always a guess. someone say don't do it someone say do it. I've been changing some time now. right now at 240k miles. first transmission light come out at 160k then disappeared and the light is back as of 2 days ago. I'm changing oil now. hope it will run for many more miles
I'm hearing grinding noise at my 2015 Mitsubishi outlander sport and I'm getting paranoid lol. I saw my CVT and it's really low. You think that's making the noise when i accelerate? Even when i accelerate it's really hard.
Go to your mechanic to get it checked.
my mechanic said they want to flush it and asking they will add 8 Liters of transoil seeing this it's just 4 Liters?
my mechanic said they wont do drain and refill , as they say i might come back and chase them with trans problems. They will only do it transmission flush 7-8L " we will only do it properly" now im confuse with my manual and mechanic
It's your car. Make a decision. Go with what your manual says. Of course your mechanic wants to do the flush cause it's double the cost for you.
Sir question can I use cvt j1 to my lamcer ex gta with cvtf j4?
You should only use cvt fluid designed for your car. Do not mix different types of fluid together
"Suck it" number 19 🤣🤣🤣
Specially for CVT Transmission you always have to change the two filters, other wise the life of your transmission will be very short.
Angel
What if a cvt is mal functioning will the full 2 filter change help or it will slio more?
What about the filter?
Manual says only drain and fill so that's what I did. I do not change any transmission filters.
how to change transmission filter in mitsubishi outlander
You can't. It does not exist. There is a metal mesh inside of the transmission.
Hello, a question, please, I have a 2010 truck with a damaged transmission and they are selling me a 2013, if they are the same, who can help me with this?
I am not mechanic so you need expert advice on this.
Jest takie same na lancer 2.0 Cvt?
Kazdy samochod ma inny ATF. Proces wymiany jest taki sam do wszystkich samochodow.
May I ask what is so special about this oil? Also, my 2010 Outlander does not have a CVT transmission but the dealer says it needs this special oil. Can anyone help me, I cannot afford a $300 ATF flush. Thank you!
According to my research, transmission in any car is sensitive to transmission fluid. That means is that you should not mix it or substitute it with different brand or type or you can damage your transmission. Most people I know do not change transmission fluid at all. Why? Cause they usually sell their car before 80k. Then it's not their problem. I keep my cars until around 110k so I follow the book and do transmission drain and fill, not flush as recommended b a dealer. Why again? As I said before, you should not mix different fluids, but how it's possible not to have fluid contamination at the dealer when they use the same machine to flush fluids an all kinds of cars and they use all kinds of fluids. So to me it makes no sense to do flush. Book says do drain and fill and I do that. I buy my ATF at the dealer for about $15 per quart. And I really do it once at around 80k. By the time this has to be done again, my car is sold. Hope this helps.
You wrote "good for V6 Outlander" on a bottle. V6 Outlander uses a 6 speed non-CVT transmission and uses a totally different fluid that is NOT compatible with the one you are using for your CVT.
I wrote on bottle V4 not V6
Your engine is a inline 4 cylinder (I4). V4 doesn't exist for the Outlander nor for any Mitsubishi application. That is another mistake. Anyways good video.
In my region v6 is also CVT transmission
The real process involves draining the oil cooler, you have a few quarts of old oil still in there, mixing with the new.
You are correct. I did not remove entire oil but drained as much as I could. This is recommended in my manual and I have no problem with transmission. I was just showing how to do drain and fill my way. You have a choice to do it as I showed or completely draining it as you indicate. Thank you for your comment.
The correct manufacturer procedure with EVERY auto trans is to do a simple drain and refill. Some, like ZF themselves, specify a second drain/refill a few hundred kms later. The notion to try and drain every single component that might be holding oil is from ill-informed diy rationale. The idea that old fluid "contaminates" new fluid is total nonsense, you simply have a mix of fresh and old fluid whcih is within the design spec of both the trans and the fluid. The exception is if you have damaged parts like clutch material or metal then a full flush, including the torque converter, is imperative.
Hello my friend. First of all, thanks for the video. What is the engine power of the vehicle? Thanks for your answer.
My engine in 2.0 liters. I don't know how many HP it has.
2.0 liter. 149 horsepower
Any power will be cut down to reduce damage to the cvt. No power off the line and really struggles with any torque resembling fun at any rpm. Owned a 2.4 cvt Lancer for 5 years and I am so over it. Getting a dual clutch turbo car 100%
@@chiquicat1 You car must have had real problems. I have the 2008 2.4L 4B12 and CVT in the Delica D5 that weighs 1.8tons and it is peppy and will happily tow trailers over 1 ton.
But you did not clean the filter
No. I never do. I only show how to drain and fill. 90% of owners don't even do that. If you feel you need to change filter, please do.
Maciej: how big is your millage and what type of milage it is - motorways, city, loaded vehicle etc.
I ask as this vehicle makes sense for me but I see so much bad opinions about it.
Let me know how hard it was to maintain it - CVT engine etc.
It is reasonably priced in Japan, where I live right now.
Pozdrowienia z Tokio ;)
Now I have about 88k miles. 90% driving in the city. I have no problems with it. So far I had to replace struts and starter. The only problem with it is that it was made in Japan so tire camber is set up that tires wear out in the outside more then on inside. All Mitshubishi cars produced in Japan have this problem. Bad specs. I had to put camber bolts to reduce is. It's not perfect but now I get about 35k miles on set of tires. Pozdrowienia z Florydy.
- Choć minęło już trochę czasu wtrącę się do Waszej dyskusji pisząc po polsku jak przystało na obywatela Polski , ponieważ nie wstydzę się swojego języka 🤨.
Również jestem posiadaczem Outlandera 2 l. ale kupionego w Polsce i nie mam z tym autem żadnych problemów eksploatacyjnych jak tutaj kolega opisuje . Auto moje sprawuje się znakomicie ,mało pali benzyny ,nic się nie psuje, na fabrycznych oponach letnich❗ przejechałem 70 tys.km. i nic się nie dzieje ...
Natomiast niestosowne opinie o autach , mówiąc ogólnie , najczęściej piszą osoby co znają auta jedynie ze zdjęć na " YT" .
Pzdr. z Polski.
@@TAD3011
1. Tytuł filmu, opis filmu i sam film jest po Angielsku.
1. Większość koment jest po Angielsku.
Dealership wanted $485 to do this 🤦🏽♂️ for the warranty to be in tact.
I never did this when my car was under warranty. It's a rip off. I did it myself at about 45k. It's up to you.
My rvr specifies CVT J1, can I use CVT J4 instead?
I'm not a mechanic but I never take a chance of mixing different transmission oil then specified in manual book. CVT is very sensitive to that not like engine oil.
J4 Is updated version of J1 you can definitely use it, I use it on my 2011 Mitsubishi outlander sport no issues but because fluid is so expensive and no close dealers around here I’m switching to Amsoil CVT fluid it says it’s compatible and I’m planning on to flush it twice just to drain oem fluid.as much as possible.
For jag xtypes change 2 L
There is a standpipe in the trans pan so its simple 2L will come out put 2L back in
This keeps the hydraulics fresh and the friction material stays inside !!
To get the rubber fill cap off you need a very very long pointed long nose plyers!!
Cheets!!
Nobody explains clearly in detail exactly how to check level. Hot, cold, running, not running,. Nothing in manual.
Did you watch my entire video? Did you missed it? I explain it starting at 4:25 ua-cam.com/video/X1OdqJVqawM/v-deo.html
@@MaciejPiotrowski You didn't state that it had to be up to operating temperature. Trans fluid expands a lot when hot and reading it right after starting (like you described in the vid) will result in over-filling.
it is not a brain surgery...but you didnt change none of the 2 filters....
No I did not, because according to manual you should drain and fill. Also, I've owned cars for the past 30 years and never changed ATF filters. I only drain and fill and have never had problems.
First, CVT fluid from a dealer would be most expensive. Second, it is useless to partial refill. Third, you need to open the pan and clean out the two magnets on the inside. Fourth, learn something about CVT on your car and replace the second fine filter, housed inside heat exchanger, then clean up main filter, located under the oil pan. Those transmissions don't need any service until they reach around 200K km. You want to circulate the fresh oil out of the transmission until you see it running relatively clean, then stop and fill it up with fresh fluid, could be done by disconnecting one of the hoses to oil cooler. Sorry to tell it is useless video mostly...
Thank you for your comments.
I show how I do it, and I do what is recommended in Mitsubishi manual, which is drain and fill. You are free to do whatever you wish on your car.
Do you actually read your maintenance service manual? Severe change for cvt is at 48K Kilometers. Go 200K and you most likely lose your warranty.
@@dereksteiger1 you go and talk to your dealer in your specific country, as mine said CVT does not need any maintenance up until 160K mark, then they offer partial fluid change, not even cleaning or replacing any filters. Do you know why?! Right, because out of 160K mark the warranty is done and they want you to buy a new car from them. Listen to them more and you sure are either paying heavily for major repairs or buying a new car...
@@1HandyLad My dealership wants to do a CVT flush every 48K.
@@dereksteiger1 strange dealer... indeed. Unlike most "d...stealers"
Thanks 👍