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Richard Raffan re-turns four distorted loquat bowls
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- Опубліковано 14 січ 2023
- The four rough-turned bowls each present slightly different but common issues. In the first 11 minutes you see the bowls trued and prepared for remounting over expanding jaws. In the next 40 minutes you see all four profiles (outsides) completed in real time apart from the sanding.
I repositioned the camera for each bowl, so when I block the camera you’ll see a similar cut from a different angle. You see only one bowl hollowed - my head kept blocking your view, so there are only a few clips from the other three. Finally you see the foot of one bowl removed, another rounded, another refined.
Im enjoying your videos Richard. Nice to watch a talented turner who doesnt need 50 differe t gadget tools and two days to turn a bowl. Thanks Matey
I appreciate being privy to your thought process and considerations at each stage. No other YT Woodturner is as elaborate in this manner. Thank you!
Same here
Totally agree.
Amen. Richard Raffan videos are the best instruction I've found.
Not only great lessons but a treasure of ideas
This is arguably one of the most informative bowl turning videos I have ever seen ... loaded with solid, problem-solving instruction. Thank you, Richard!
Well thank you. You might enjoy The Art of Turned Bowls (originally Turned Bowl Design) and find Turning Bowls useful. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I already have them ... and they are certainly enjoyable!
Richard That was brilliant bowl you made i watch you all the time and you have a superb show. WELL DONE.
You are amazing!!! Long time fan, please keep making videos. Your skills are second to none!
Thank you very much for the masterclass, dear Richard.
After turning four bowls today, I still found a lot of pleasure watching your work.
Cheers
I've recently started to second turn the first bowls I ever roughed out from last summer and really appreciate the timeliness of this video. I've had lots of practice doing the rough turning part but none of this more precise phase. Thank you for taking the time to make these, they are very helpful.
Most useful and informative turning content on youtube. Please keep it coming!
Was nice seeing you turn and explain what you were doing, the bowls look great
Thanks Richard always great to see what turns up next
Lovely bowls Richard, thanks for sharing the method of turning and decision on working with rough turned bowls
Take care
Cheers
Harold
Seriously- how are you going to top yourself??!!? Where is there to go??
Super as always, my friend. I NEVER cease to be amazed by what you can do with difficult or challenging pieces.
Words cant describe, nice video and very very nice bowls.... 🤗
Love the videos Richard. Really lovely work. Wet turning bowls myself at the moment.
Beautiful bowls Richard.
Richard, you're simply the best.
great job!!! It gave me several ideas to hone in on some of my issues and didn't know how to fix!!!
Thanks for the time and effort. Excellent video
Hey Richard,
I learned a lot from you already, now I wanna try to teach something new to you.
I saw how your banjo is pretty hard to move sometimes, I think we woodturners all know that issue, but especially when you are turning a lot of dry wood, it’s worth cleaning the bedways with fine grid sandpaper (like 320) and also the underside of the banjo and tailstock before turning.
I discovered yesterday, that a really big puddle of water on the lathe ways will act just like very dry bed ways. Anything in between will make the banjo move harder. I find that really frustrating. So I clean up all the metal parts that are rubbing each other with fine sandpaper, doesn’t take long and works really well - even without grease or something. I used to use a beeswax oil finish to rub on the bed ways, but I stoped doing that, cause dust and other stuff will bind to that. Clean metal on metal will work well.
Thank you for the thought and providing me with an insight into something I was barely aware of as it''s not a day-to-day issue. Wondering what you're referring to, I realized that I do keep my banjo slightly loose so it moves more easily - which in turn means that if I lift it slightly it does jam. I want to defend Vicmarc as my experience is that Vicmarc tool rests move more easily than any others I've used and cinsequently are way more user friendly,. For over 50 years I've regularly cleaned lathe beds using WD40 or lanolin, especially after turning green timber or before a demo on a strange lathe. I'm reluctant to use abrasives on the bed as that could eventually throw the tailcentre out of alighment. So apparent jamming is down to my not keeping the banjo flat on the lathe bed.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I agree with you, abrasives on the bed is unnecessary. An occasional wipe with WD40 is all that's needed. What I found to be the problem with a sticky banjo is not the mating surfaces of the bed and banjo; rather, it's the cam bar sticking in the clamping rod. Sliding the banjo off and turning it upside down where a wipe-down of the rod with WD40 and a few drops of oil or dry lubricant works wonders.
I enjoy your videos and have learned much from you beginning with your books many years ago. Best regards, Richard F.
@@StraightThread I'd forgotten about the cam. Annother problem can arise with the lock plate under the lathe bed. If that's a bit loose it can jam if the rest is moved suddenly and quickly.
Thank you guys for commenting. I checked mine, it was a bit loose. Had to tighten it up. The jaming logic is plausible and did actually cause some problems with my banjo, especially when I tried to pull the banjo at the toolrest (that caused it to jam). Only after I tried WD40, it solved the problem. Whatever is in there, does a great job! I had to spray it basically everywhere, not just on the banjo and bed, but also at the underside where the clamp mechanism is. Basically every part thats moving along the lathe bed. Im still of the opinion that you can use 320 grit (worn down, so its way less aggressive than brand new sandpaper) or finer, when the lathe bed is very dirty, cause its a VERY small amount of metal thats removed each time. But over years, that can add up (I see the issue). Last time when I turned a lot of oak, the acid turned the bed dark brown over time and caused the banjo to get stuck. Is there something that you can clean your lathe bed with in such extreme cases, so that you don’t have to use sandpaper?
@@thefaulenzer677 When I lived overlooking the ocean and turned green jarrah, rust was an ongoing problem, often sticking the banjo to the lathe bed overnight if I didn't wipe down properly at the end of a day. That always got the worn 400 grit and WD40 rub down. Same on the bandsaw table when I forget to remove some green timber overnight.
9.20 - I would love to be as out of practice as Richard 😅
Excellent demo Richard. Not sure I understand why you removed the feet from some of the bowls. I thought they looked fine. Misidentifying the wood nearly cost you several bowls. I am very happy you were able salvage them. Mere mortals like myself would have lost several. Rough turning thicker would have been my preference. But I certainly understand why you went that thin wet. Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2023 and stay safe.🙂🙂
The bowls looked okay with the foot but, to my eye, better without. I think I'm re-entering a footless phase. Also It was a good opportunity to show how quick and easy it is to change a foot - less than one minute of turning.
Never heard of loquat as a turning wood. (Only saw the fruit once). I assume manchurian pear is a lot more stable? The stripey sock would be able to stand by itself in a cold environment by now, I would think. Thanks for making thes videos and and sharing your wisdom.
From my experience, I don't know of any wood that warps as much as loquat, because several years a go I was offered two trees of loquat and I olso don't like to waste free wood, I've made several bowls of that wood over the years and I don't know of anything that warps as much, however, excellent work master, stay healthy and safe
Compared to many woods I use (like casuarinas, eucalypts and banksias), loquat is remarklably stable but with just enough warping to make a basic bowl more interesting..
White Gum Eucalyptus that I had felled (very large tree's, about 30 metre's high, and straight as a barrel), even when left for 2+ years, still warped and developed large cracks after being turned ua-cam.com/video/LgpdBdBdjRw/v-deo.html I've not had much White Gum that hasn't moved or cracked.
Beautiful work fine sir.
4 very lovely bowls Richard, I think this might be your best bowl-turning video yet, and packed with insightful and very useful information, including an almost discolouring of the timber, red might have been a nice touch and add to the expense having your DNA included, could be a limited edition bowl, lol. This brought to mind a sign that Brendan McAreavy (www.youtube.com/@baconsoda) has in his workshop "Blood does not belong on the work piece" (or something along those lines). Thanks as always for sharing and imparting your knowledge and skills.
Good evening Richard, I enjoy watching your videos as well as Tommy’s. They are truly superb. I wanted to ask you how powerful your wood lathe is? thank you and good luck.
My VL150 has a 1hp 0.75kW motor.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturningthank you
@Richard Raffan Your loquat looks exactly like the Bradford Pear I love to turn and tends to be readily available around here. I started regularly using WD40 after John Jones mentioned it in a demo. Now I can credit you as well. Some folks will say it is not a lubricant but a water displacement product and I will maybe but if Richard Raffan and John Jordan use it, that is good enough for me. Richard, do you sign these bowls after the wax finish? Perhaps signing your work might be a topic for a future video for you.
Hi Mike. On finished pieces I generally burn the signature in along with the name of the wood. I'm beginning to think that an archival permenant marker on bare wood is probably more permenant. Or an engraver if the wood's not too thin or endgrain.
We're do you get those huge chucks? Really enjoy your videos Richard, very informative and helpful. Been turning now for a few weeks now and thinks to you Richard I can still count to 10 😅. My biggest hurdle has been the bowl gouge. But watching you has helped me to understand better how to sharpen and use them. Thinks for your help my friend and best regards from Ohio. WALTER
I'm glad to be of some help. I'm using Vicmarc chucks, mostly VM100s on a Vicmarc VL150 lathe.
Very useful
I’ve just turned some wet wood and was advised to leave the walls and base about 10% of the diameter. Yours look thinner than this Richard. Good job by the way.
10% wall thickness is s a good rule-of-thumb. When I roughed the bowls ua-cam.com/video/laBPappesP8/v-deo.html I thought the wood was pear, which is almost inert, so I felt I could go slightly thinner.
Curious where I can get that little rotary sanding tool from...a drill is so unwieldy!?
Any woodturning supplies store should stock rotary sanders and the sanding disks that go with them. On facework like bowls, power sanding is more effective, particularly across centre, because rotary sanders don't have a motor. Rotary sanders go round with the wood removing swirl marks. If you do a lot of power sanding it's worth investing in an angle drill which can be held in one hand and is much easier to use than a conventional right-angle drill.
No project is complete until you have your DNA in it. 😮
Really helpful Richard but rain on the window in Jan cant be right
I guess I now understand why you rough turn with at least ten percent wall thickness!
Richard- I’m fairly new to turning and wonder when you would true the tenon on the bowl first before re-turning the outer and inner surfaces (in other words- how much out of round is OK to rechuck)? Thank you!
It's not so much what's okay as what's possible. I've had roughed bowls distort to 9-in x 6-in or 12-in x 9-in ovals in two or three days. I got these four back on the lathe in case they were about to distort further. I always re-turn roughed bowls this way, but you can mount them between centres to true the foot, before the inside shoulder. It justs adds an extra step and involves more messing around.
Hi Richard,
I’ve tried to find out about loquat, and it appears to be a medium-sized fruit tree/shrub. The pieces you’re working on seem a bit big to come from that size tree? No matter, the bowls are lovely.
Thoroughly enjoying the videos and taking ideas on board.
The loquat in my garden is a cluster of 80-150mm branches coming off a very short trunk, but I know of three loquat trees with trunks around 350mm diameter and a or more meter in length. I was very lucky to chance on this one.
Thank you for the reply Richard. A good find! Several years ago my father and I had access to some yew being cut in a Welsh churchyard. I’m still using it!
Great instrutional video. Question: I notice you don't use a negative rake scrapper, which seem to be all the rage now. Do you not like the negative rake -- what are the pros and cons?
I think putting a negative rake on a scraper is a complete waste of time. This partly because I’ve never come across anything a negative rake does that a standard scraper can’t do as well or better. Their chief benefit is that they are more difficult to catch, although not impossible. To achieve a negative rake (where the angle between tool and wood is less than 90°) all you have to do is raise the tool handle and possibly the rest.
On internal cylinders a standard square-section scraper is far superior, especially for getting into corners when turning boxes, because the bevels tend to ease the cut towards centre. The best box-turning tool is a bedan with a slightly radiused edge used as a scraper.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks very much.
incorrectly mounted if it was round on first turning it would be roun on reverse turning
Great video yet again, Richard, thanks. I am wondering about your shear scraper. Did you purchase it with a rounded edge, or have you ground it that way. I find that it is difficult to shear scrape with the scrapers iI have, as they all have a squared edge, which get caught up on the tool rest....
This shear scraper with the rounded side used to be part of the Raffan Signature range made by Henry Taylor. I'm not sure if it's still availabe. Any 1-in x ¼-in scraper or skew chisel would do. The lower left side is easily sanded on a disk or belt sander. I also have harden rest that don't get dinged which helps. Regular steel rests need filing smooth regularly.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I didn't understand what the term "shear scraper" is, the translator can't do it. Can you please explain this to me? Thank you.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks Richard. Yes, the toolrests on my Stubby are quite susceptible to dings. I must talk to you about your Robust rests one day....
@@milasiroky3301 Shearing is when the scraper is used tilted on edge so the edge contacts the wood at an angle rather than flat. Shear scrapers have a rounded lower left side so the tool slides smoothly along the rest. The advantages are that the edge is slicing the wood, with only a millimeter of two of the edge in contact with the wood, meaning the edge is unlikely to catch. As you can see you can also use the tool flat on the rest as a conventional scraper. You can shear scrape using almost any tool where you can present the edge at an angle to the oncoming wood. I hope the translator manages this.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning The translator did it 🙂, thank you for the thorough explanation of my problem.
Good day again Richard, sorry for the generality, but can you also write what dimensions of the jaws you used? Thank you.
I'm using a Vicmarc VM100 chuck with Step jaws. vicmarc.com/product-page/chuck-jaws/jaws-for-vm90,-vm100-chuck-jaws/step-detail
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you and second jaw is Dovetail Jaw 144 mm?
@@milasiroky3301 I think so. I have two sets of large dovetail jaws.
DNA on the bowl is how you know it's authentic.
I have tools sharpened at 45 degree BUT IT SEEMS,i cannot get wood smooth when turning would 29 degrees be better for a smooth finish lolol
I think it'd make a huge difference, although it might also depend on the species adn quality of the timber you're turning.
Iron wood ,mahogany seple and russian elm i think.oh and rosewood..
Where do you get loquat wood?
This came from the tip recycling garden waste. You see these roughed in ua-cam.com/video/laBPappesP8/v-deo.html
If you sand in reverse, is it necessary to secure the chuck with the set screw?
Few lathes or chucks enable you to lock a chuck on the drive spindle and many don't have reverse. But if you're going to use reverse and can lock the chuck on the spindel it's prudent to do so. I developed the habit of flicking chucks or faceplates through the final rotation to lock them on the spindle and I tend to give the job a push start when switching on reverse. It's decades since I had a chuck come off.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you. Can you elaborate on what you mean by the flicking? I didn’t understand that part and how it locks the chuck on.
@@MD-en3zm Flick, as in pull suddenly, so the chuck snaps against the base of the spindle and locks, although not so tightly that you cna't easily remove the chuck.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Ok, thanks. Will try it.
Again, its the sound; cant hear your words, so I'll just watch! This looks like you made a bead, then mashed it down, as if it were made of clay
I've recently learned that my iPhone 6 didn't like the extension cable connecting the mic, so the sound was recorded by the phone rather than the mic. Hopefully after the next video (already made sn ready to go) the sound will improve.
Why turn wet wood what is the pleasure!!
Is this a question or statement? If you've never turned green wood you should give it a go and discover the pleasures. Bowls are rough-turned green to speed seasoning.
Not for me every one has their own taste!! Rather wait for the wood to dry to reasonable moisture level.
@@ericbeckett1166 Nothing to do with taste: for professional bowl turners like myself rough-turning is a necessity and an effecient use of time and resources. Green wood is much easier to turn than dry wood, and especially anything kiln dried. You might be unaware that boards over 75mm thick take at least three to four years to season during which time they are mostly prone to warping and splitting on each end, so there's a lot of waste. Also, stacks of lumber from which to turn bowls occupy a lot of space and tie up lots of capital. By rough turning bowls green I use far more of a log, processing it before it splits. Above all that, turning green wood is exhilerating, so if you're bowl turner waiting for boards to dry, you're missing out on one of the joys of woodturning.
Reasons to turn green wet wood:
1. Wet wood turns more easily saving your gouges from dulling as quickly as with dry wood.
2. De-bulking, hollowing, or coring are much more easily accomplished with softer wet wood.
3. It greatly reduces waste due to checking making wood use more efficient.
4. An absence of free flying dust making the air safer to breath and the use of a dust extractor unnecessary.
5. Significantly reduces drying time.
You will never find dry, big pieces that aren't checked.