This piece of wood was obviously already dry, but I’m curious what your wet turned pieces look like after a few weeks, or months. I’ve been turning for about 2 years and I’d say that somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 to 60 percent of my bowls either crack horribly, or warp so bad the shape changes dramatically. I have a cabinet full of reject bowls, some with really nice grain, but the cracks render them unsellable. Do your green bowls also crack? Or do you have sone secret to prevent or reduce the probability of cracks?
Hi Fred, so this is a pretty big conversation.. in a sense it’s one of the cornerstones of Woodturning. Il do my best to condense what could be a full degree into a simple reply. First up, the piece of wood in this video was a living tree about 6 days before I turned it. The end shots are taken some 3,4 weeks later after the piece is fully dry. I turn 90% of my work from extremely green wood, I sand and finish them in one sitting and these days I’d be surprised if 1 in 100 showed any unexpected cracks. Wood selection is the first important point to consider. You want no pre-existing cracks (shakes/cracks that exits in the living tree or fractures that happen as the tree is felled/wind blown) You also want the wood to be as green as possible, this prevents checking from drying which will incubate cracks in the drying process. Next you need to understand how the relationship between the grain orientation and the shape of the finished vessel will express its self during drying. This point is too difficult to explain here (buy a copy of “turning green wood by Michael O'Donnell” and you’ll begin to understand a little more about this. But the best way to fully understand is to turn the same shape vessel in many different grain orientations from the same timber so examining how the finished pieces differ to each other. The other extremely important factor is consistency of wall thickness. It most likely that you pieces crack because you leave too much meat on the bones and that there are pre-existing checks in your wood. For most turner learning to turn green to finished pieces will take years to perfect. So don’t be disheartened if it feels like a mountain to climb, you have a lifetime to master this trade and the learning never ends.
Thank you for not spoiling the wood with all that liquid polymer that some turners use for whatever reason.... this wood needs no more "filler!"
Thanks . I’m glad you enjoyed it. Do you do much Woodturning?
Absolutely gorgeous!
Thanks ☺️
Beautiful wood/beautiful result! And not a drop of epoxy/not a note of music while turning. Double bonus!
Thanks, buddy. Do you not like epoxy?
Ooh wow, that’s very pretty!
Thanks Bev 😉
Oh man is that an awesome piece of yew burl! Love the design and the live edge. Great job! Your very talented and do amazing work 👏 🏆 🏆 🏆
Thank you so glad you enjoyed it. Have you watched my new videos? More coming twice a week. Hope you enjoy.
Fantastic piece of yew. Great job turning it too.
As always a masterpiece!
WOW!!!
You like ?
Wow! Both to you and this fantastic piece of wood!
Thanks buddy. So glad you enjoyed it
Love it it's very cool
Thanks. Do you get to turn much yew ?
Thanks 👍
Thank you
Beaitufl piece of art 👏👏
Thanks buddy. You turn much yew ?
Awesome!
Thanks buddy
Wow!
You like ?
@@RedKiteWoodturning …Oh yes. I like! I’m kind of envious of finding such a fine piece of wood to turn, but also envious of the skill of turning it!
This piece of wood was obviously already dry, but I’m curious what your wet turned pieces look like after a few weeks, or months.
I’ve been turning for about 2 years and I’d say that somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 to 60 percent of my bowls either crack horribly, or warp so bad the shape changes dramatically.
I have a cabinet full of reject bowls, some with really nice grain, but the cracks render them unsellable.
Do your green bowls also crack? Or do you have sone secret to prevent or reduce the probability of cracks?
Hi Fred, so this is a pretty big conversation.. in a sense it’s one of the cornerstones of Woodturning. Il do my best to condense what could be a full degree into a simple reply.
First up, the piece of wood in this video was a living tree about 6 days before I turned it. The end shots are taken some 3,4 weeks later after the piece is fully dry.
I turn 90% of my work from extremely green wood, I sand and finish them in one sitting and these days I’d be surprised if 1 in 100 showed any unexpected cracks.
Wood selection is the first important point to consider. You want no pre-existing cracks (shakes/cracks that exits in the living tree or fractures that happen as the tree is felled/wind blown)
You also want the wood to be as green as possible, this prevents checking from drying which will incubate cracks in the drying process.
Next you need to understand how the relationship between the grain orientation and the shape of the finished vessel will express its self during drying. This point is too difficult to explain here (buy a copy of “turning green wood by Michael O'Donnell” and you’ll begin to understand a little more about this. But the best way to fully understand is to turn the same shape vessel in many different grain orientations from the same timber so examining how the finished pieces differ to each other.
The other extremely important factor is consistency of wall thickness. It most likely that you pieces crack because you leave too much meat on the bones and that there are pre-existing checks in your wood.
For most turner learning to turn green to finished pieces will take years to perfect. So don’t be disheartened if it feels like a mountain to climb, you have a lifetime to master this trade and the learning never ends.
I enjoyed it, but unfortunately your tools are very up-to-date and new and I don't have the same size as you
Sorry ?
@@RedKiteWoodturning ❤️❤️