I have the same exact issue with my battery. I have just ordered the circuit board. I will update you in three weeks. Thank you so much for your video!!
I Also got the exact same issue. you however need to update your referal link, its not available anymore. So I had to find another similar board. But it will take a month before I get it.
All of my tools are craftsman 19.2. I bought 4 used lithium batteries. Only 1 held a charge. Using various packs and brands from the Lowes recycle bin I was able to repair the cells in 2 others. 1 had a board problem. After pouring through the net I found that some Ryobi use the same boards, just have to get t1 and t2 correct. I was able to use a Ryobi board to fix the remaining pack. Board was totally different and I had to flip the batteries around but it still worked.
Worked on mine. Pack was down below 12 volt. Used a battery maintainer 2 amp and held it to neg and positive side of pack in 20 second intervals. Voltage kept coming up and I tried it in Ryobi. Didn’t work the first tw 0:35 o times. Once the voltage was above 16 the charger recognized the battery and began charging. We will see if it takes a charge and hold. The flashing green light is your friend. Flashing red light, not so much.
Edit: found the next two paragraphs online, they explain T1. T1 is a Test terminal that is used by the charger to determine if the pack is okay-if the FETs are off then the pack will fail this test and the charger blinks the defective led pattern. The FETs connect the terminal labelled (-) to the bottom of cell 1. The charger and the pack send a secret code back and forth on T1; without it the pack won't charge, and the charger won't work either. ===== My original post follows, which seems to not be correct. I think that T1 terminal might have something to do with temperature sensing - but what it does and how it does what it does, those I can’t answer.
I can confirm that just using a 10k resistor on that T1 terminal will put it into "charging mode" and allow you to charge the battery from a bench power supply.
T1 - likely thermometer for temperature probing. With the screw holes, check for traces, if there are none - elongate the hole. Otherwise you need to use an adhesive of sorts (3M, hot glue, glue) to stick it down. The screws seem to serve the purpose of ensuring the wires are kept still in relation to the batteries and board.
Hi Morten, yes, there is a certain order for disconnecting/connecting the BMS, in laptop batteries the common one is disconnected first + then all contacts as the voltage decreases, the common one is disconnected last - the connection is strictly in the reverse order. The BMS battery board in the video may have remembered the error and went into blocking mode, perhaps it can be brought back to life with a programmer.
Awesome that you got it working! And testing it with a drill similar to my own. My other 5Ah batterties have been used a lot with my chainsaw recently. I hope you get a lot of use out of that one. /Jonas
Hey Morten. Do you have any idea on where I can get those metal springs to push out the mounting clips on the side of the battery... I lost min, and fundt them ones. But didn't save a link.. Me sad now 😋
Lots of times the sellers for those BMS boards will have the battery packaging available for sale too. I would check there first if Google isn’t giving results fast enough.
I have like 4 bad ryobi batteries that still show voltage. Anybody know what on the board has gone bad? $10-25 for a replacement board just to fail again months later wouldn't be worth it for me. Thanks for your video!
Thank you for sharing. May I make one suggestion to you? Check the specs of the two output mosfets on the new board and compare them with the originals. They should have the same output current rating. You might want to replace the smaller heatsink on the new board with the larger one on the older board. Typically cells in parallel such as the 5 ah board will in fact output higher currents and generate more heat through the mosfets. It's an unusual design with Ryobi as most other tool batteries will not pass the output through a semiconductor, rather directly from the 20v and 0 v points on the multi cell array.
@@MyPlayHouse May I offer a simple suggestion then, the output mosfets on the original board are most likely IRF1401Zs , the devices on the new replacement board are likely a MXP4002AT's and the two are for all practical purposed in this particular circuit interchangeable. The difference is the smaller heatsink on the new board. Simply exchange the tow heatsinks so you end up with the larger on on the new board. It's easy to do, no soldering necessary, just carefully remove it by taking the two screws off the 220 semiconductors and the two holding it to the board. Be careful not to let the screwdriver touch any thing else except the screws. Replace with the larger one using white thermal conductive glue. The mosfets now enjoy better thermal conditions.
Hi, 2e question how many watts is your solder iron? I got the new pcb's same as you have but with my 60Watt iron it's impossible to solder the + and - to the battery. Also my battery is a 4Ah, and then you have to use the screws on the front of the pcb otherwise it doesn't fit in the box.
60W is way more than enough,, I think 15-18W would do the job,, might take a bit longer,, something else is wrong. Do what you need to do to get it in the Box,, I had to!! :-)
Caution: Be careful how you place the new BMS on the battery. I accidentally turned the bms and broke it. You should mark where the plus and minus are on the battery. I emphasize that this is extremely important because it saves you $4.
Has anyone found a new BMS board recently and verified it works? The links are broken and all the ones I can find online look quite different to the one in the video (and in my existing batteries).
Yea sorry 😅. I was thinking that given they are the same chemistry, if they were brought to the same voltage and connected in parallel, you'd get the sum of capacities as a result. That's the reason for my question.. I was wondering why you didn't left the old one connected there in parallel. @@MyPlayHouse
Hi, it looks like you are successful in repairing Ryobi batteries. But what about mine 4Ah batterie? The third Led from left is blinking when pushing the test button. The voltage directly measured on the batteries is OK, 15-17 Volt. No voltage on the output connector. And of course it does not load. I suppose only a new circuit board will solve the problem?
The order of connecting the BMS terminals was posted online elsewhere, here is copy and paste of that. It is very tempting to connect +Ve and -ve first since those are the hardest to connect, but dont. I connect the -ve first, then the bms wires 3.7v, and up. Finally I connect the +ve.
I have the same exact issue with my battery. I have just ordered the circuit board. I will update you in three weeks. Thank you so much for your video!!
Best of luck,, in three weeks :-)
Did you fix your battery with the new board you ordered?
I Also got the exact same issue. you however need to update your referal link, its not available anymore. So I had to find another similar board. But it will take a month before I get it.
@@sortsnakeksperimentcan you give a link to where you found them
All of my tools are craftsman 19.2. I bought 4 used lithium batteries. Only 1 held a charge. Using various packs and brands from the Lowes recycle bin I was able to repair the cells in 2 others. 1 had a board problem. After pouring through the net I found that some Ryobi use the same boards, just have to get t1 and t2 correct. I was able to use a Ryobi board to fix the remaining pack. Board was totally different and I had to flip the batteries around but it still worked.
That sounds like a cool fix/ninja hack!! :-)
Thanks for this informative video. Love your soldering stand (with jaws & Solder wire real) where did you get it?
Thank You,,, The soldering stand I made as part of my education,, so it can not be bought :-/
Worked on mine. Pack was down below 12 volt. Used a battery maintainer 2 amp and held it to neg and positive side of pack in 20 second intervals. Voltage kept coming up and I tried it in Ryobi. Didn’t work the first tw 0:35 o times. Once the voltage was above 16 the charger recognized the battery and began charging. We will see if it takes a charge and hold.
The flashing green light is your friend. Flashing red light, not so much.
Edit: found the next two paragraphs online, they explain T1.
T1 is a Test terminal that is used by the charger to determine if the pack is okay-if the FETs are off then the pack will fail this test and the charger blinks the defective led pattern. The FETs connect the terminal labelled (-) to the bottom of cell 1.
The charger and the pack send a secret code back and forth on T1; without it the pack won't charge, and the charger won't work either.
=====
My original post follows, which seems to not be correct.
I think that T1 terminal might have something to do with temperature sensing - but what it does and how it does what it does, those I can’t answer.
"secret code" those snaky ba*** :-)
I can confirm that just using a 10k resistor on that T1 terminal will put it into "charging mode" and allow you to charge the battery from a bench power supply.
@@gd.ritter - are you connecting that 10K resistor to ground or to the plus voltage?
@@stevebabiak6997 To positive. ua-cam.com/video/cSnk6bAhKEs/v-deo.html
T1 - likely thermometer for temperature probing.
With the screw holes, check for traces, if there are none - elongate the hole. Otherwise you need to use an adhesive of sorts (3M, hot glue, glue) to stick it down. The screws seem to serve the purpose of ensuring the wires are kept still in relation to the batteries and board.
it still works great.
Hi Morten, yes, there is a certain order for disconnecting/connecting the BMS, in laptop batteries the common one is disconnected first + then all contacts as the voltage decreases, the common one is disconnected last - the connection is strictly in the reverse order. The BMS battery board in the video may have remembered the error and went into blocking mode, perhaps it can be brought back to life with a programmer.
"perhaps it can be brought back to life with a programmer."
That would make it very difficult to do :-/
Awesome that you got it working! And testing it with a drill similar to my own. My other 5Ah batterties have been used a lot with my chainsaw recently. I hope you get a lot of use out of that one. /Jonas
Thanks for donating your faulty battery,, for me to repair and share to help lots of others with same problem.. :-)
Where did you get the board from
Link in the description.
Hey Morten. Do you have any idea on where I can get those metal springs to push out the mounting clips on the side of the battery... I lost min, and fundt them ones. But didn't save a link.. Me sad now 😋
Sorry,, you will have to do a bit more googling,,as I do not know :-)
Lots of times the sellers for those BMS boards will have the battery packaging available for sale too. I would check there first if Google isn’t giving results fast enough.
I have like 4 bad ryobi batteries that still show voltage. Anybody know what on the board has gone bad? $10-25 for a replacement board just to fail again months later wouldn't be worth it for me. Thanks for your video!
I am afraid, that if I had known,, I would have fixed it, instead of replacing it :-/
I should be able to fix (2) 9Ah batteries after watching that video. Only, will I dare to begin that tricky job. Thanks
If you do not dare!! donate the batteries to me for filming :-)
Thank you for sharing. May I make one suggestion to you? Check the specs of the two output mosfets on the new board and compare them with the originals. They should have the same output current rating. You might want to replace the smaller heatsink on the new board with the larger one on the older board. Typically cells in parallel such as the 5 ah board will in fact output higher currents and generate more heat through the mosfets. It's an unusual design with Ryobi as most other tool batteries will not pass the output through a semiconductor, rather directly from the 20v and 0 v points on the multi cell array.
Good sugestions! there is not much options available for replacing the BMS,, this was what I could find :-/
@@MyPlayHouse May I offer a simple suggestion then, the output mosfets on the original board are most likely IRF1401Zs , the devices on the new replacement board are likely a MXP4002AT's and the two are for all practical purposed in this particular circuit interchangeable. The difference is the smaller heatsink on the new board.
Simply exchange the tow heatsinks so you end up with the larger on on the new board. It's easy to do, no soldering necessary, just carefully remove it by taking the two screws off the 220 semiconductors and the two holding it to the board. Be careful not to let the screwdriver touch any thing else except the screws. Replace with the larger one using white thermal conductive glue. The mosfets now enjoy better thermal conditions.
Hi, 2e question how many watts is your solder iron? I got the new pcb's same as you have but with my 60Watt iron it's impossible to solder the + and - to the battery. Also my battery is a 4Ah, and then you have to use the screws on the front of the pcb otherwise it doesn't fit in the box.
60W is way more than enough,, I think 15-18W would do the job,, might take a bit longer,, something else is wrong.
Do what you need to do to get it in the Box,, I had to!! :-)
@@MyPlayHouseThanks, In any case the new PCB solves the problem! And I will buy myself a new solder iron to solder everything properly.
Thanks. This was what I needed.
Glad I could help!
Thank you. I think this is also my problem. I'll order a board and see what happens!
Hi @email2002
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Caution: Be careful how you place the new BMS on the battery. I accidentally turned the bms and broke it. You should mark where the plus and minus are on the battery. I emphasize that this is extremely important because it saves you $4.
I paid way more than $4,, for my BMS,, Yes you need to turn it the right way.
Where did you get a bms for $4?
Has anyone found a new BMS board recently and verified it works? The links are broken and all the ones I can find online look quite different to the one in the video (and in my existing batteries).
Yep,, I have updated the links for you!!
why not leave both batteries? (after bringing them to same voltage of course)
I do not understand.
Yea sorry 😅. I was thinking that given they are the same chemistry, if they were brought to the same voltage and connected in parallel, you'd get the sum of capacities as a result. That's the reason for my question.. I was wondering why you didn't left the old one connected there in parallel. @@MyPlayHouse
Why your channel going backwards in subs
It is not going backwards,, just not going as fast as I am dreaming of :-)
Great job love the content!
Appreciate it! :-)
Hi, it looks like you are successful in repairing Ryobi batteries. But what about mine 4Ah batterie? The third Led from left is blinking when pushing the test button. The voltage directly measured on the batteries is OK, 15-17 Volt. No voltage on the output connector. And of course it does not load. I suppose only a new circuit board will solve the problem?
Well if everything else is fine,, cells are in balances and there is a good overall voltages,, a new BMS might be the only solution.
@@MyPlayHouse Ok, i will order them. Let you know.
How come there isn’t a class action lawsuit against Ryobi for these defects.
All of my cells are in good condition
:-) you must be American..
The order of connecting the BMS terminals was posted online elsewhere, here is copy and paste of that.
It is very tempting to connect +Ve and -ve first since those are the hardest to connect, but dont.
I connect the -ve first, then the bms wires 3.7v, and up.
Finally I connect the +ve.
Hi @stevebabiak6997
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
😆Pump! Another winner thanks!
It´s way better when it ends up working.
👍
I finally got it working!
second
Hi @nelchan2421
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)