The geometry of gravelbikes is actually the came as it was on old Mountainbikes, GCN mentioned it is a vireo. Some brands even bring out "new bikes" that share the geometry with their old Mountainbikes.
i would be interested to see how long & stable that rear triangle will last with the lower support being removed to accomadate new wheel size, other than that nice looking build
I have the same question. I also have an old 26 frame I want to convert, but I'd need to remove the the braces in the rear triangle and wondering if the frame will flex too much.
For people having concerns about modified rear triangle (chainstay bridge cut). While you don't want to do that in a super light thin wall road frame, he is reusing an old MTB frame for gravel use, and his MTB frame is extremely overbuild for that. You can see that the tubes are large size squares, not round, they are very thick walled. That frame is originally designed to do jumps on rocks. There is ZERO danger that anything will be compromised, the old MTB frame after the mods is still many times stronger than a brand new $1000 racing bike frame. It sure weights a ton (this one is probably around 2100+ grams without fork, when Specialized Diverge E5 alloy gravel is around 1200-1300 grams), but it will outlast any high end light weight frame
Hey iche habe den Rahemn danach getestet und die Wechselbelastung scheint kein problem für den Rahmen zu sein (steht auch in der Beschreibung). Klar weiß ich nicht wie es nach 10 Jahren Dauerbelastung aussieht aber es war ein erfolgreicher test. Liebe Grüße
I've build myself something similar out of a 26 inch hardtail. Although I chose 27,5 inchers as the hardtail wasn't my size to begin with. I stuck to the 3 by 9 groupset although I've got rid of a chainring. So now I'm riding a 2 by 9 Gravelbike with dropperbars and triggershifters. In addition I had to add an adapter for the rear disc brake. Originally went with cheap single piston, now rocking cheap dual piston mechanical brakes. Cheers
Great build, nice to see someone using normal tools and budget parts. I watched another video where guy (Canadian but cannot remember his UA-cam channel name) mentioned starting a 26er to 29 conversion with a smaller frame than you normally use for a 26er meaning the top tube (pipe) isn't so high but I suppose it depends of geometry of the frame you choose. Enjoyed watching the build. Enjoy the bike.
It looks nice and am sure it performs ok too. Just be careful of your new centre of gravity. The bike is now higher than it was designed for and this means that you are riding "higher up" so you cannot quickly put your feet on the ground unless you hop off the saddle. To avoid this you can experiment with shorter forks that give the bike a more suitable BB drop of 5 cm or so. It makes a big difference when stopping at the lights and gives you more of a feel of sitting in the bike than sitting on it when riding.
i have done it and showed it to my channel.. but i didnt cut anything from the frame it was a 26er from 90's, and i just used 27.5 x 1.75 tires..and it worked :) Ride safe sir :) yes,, old frames are heavy coz of the materila steel but i love riding it.. RIDE safe sir.
I recommend changing the carbon seatpost to aluminum. Your bike has a split seat tube at the back, so the carbon seatpost will wear quickly where the clamp is installed. For carbon poles, the cut on the seat tube is at the front.
Nice T-Shirt. Good to know that that Im not alone. But let’s get to your bike. This is impressive. Many people think that’s better to buy a new bike but it’s not true a specially when you have some skills and tools. Friend! Tell me about stiffness of rear wheel after you cut off this small frame part. Please.
have any problem when you removed that pieces on the seat stay and on the chain stay ??i made a gravel bike project but im so afraid on remove this parts on my frame and i want know if that parts make some influence on the frame resistance
11:40 - "pipe super high" tope tube being too high - I see that you have selected 29" size for Topseek fork, size 26" is what is needed. 29" size keeps MTB geometry, that's why the wheel opening is so big at the front and the top tube is seating so high.
I dont know if i will do a review. But i can tell you, so far i am happy with the fork. I alsou rode some realy rough trails and so far nothing happened.
@@madebyman4937 thanks. Been in a dilemma of buying this carbon fork or stay aluminum or invest more for a better carbon fork (which will burn a hole on my wallet). 😅
@@JA-ge7wn I think the Toseek Carbon Fork will be strong enough. But sometimes the little less weight isnt worth that money, so maybe you can alsou stay with your aluminium fork. Or you can change it later when you are sure you need it.
@@madebyman4937 i have an update. Someone brought an MTB with Toseek carbon rigid fork to my cousin's shop. The bike was pretty banged up because it was involved in an accident. The front rim, crankarms, chainring, and handlebar are bent and aren't salvagable but the rigid fork only has minor scratches. I checked it at all angles and no cracks. Would I recommend using it more after that crash? No. But knowing it wont break after big crashes is a relief.
wo hast du die carbon-laufräder her und was haben die gekostet? hm, seit dezember sind inzwischen 3 monate vergangen, bestimmt hat sich der preis inzwischen verdoppelt.
Nice, no nonsense build. Great to see as I am looking for something like that to build to ride the shoulder seasons when my MTB or fat bike stay in the garage. Where did you source the the wheels from? I would think those would bring the majority of the cost.
Hey, also bei mir haben sie recht ordentlich funktioniert. Natürlich nicht so gut wie hydraulische aber definitiv besser als standart mechanische Scheibenbremsen. Liebe grüße Martin
Nice project, but I don't get why you took off the original top tube cable guides... just to drill the frame and install your own 3D printed versions...
Cutting the cable guides and the brake mounts should be fine. Now for the bracing between the chainstays, is another story... I would rather do a mullet 29" - 27.5" setup, but as long as the bike stays rigid enough I guess...
@@madebyman4937 in mechanical disc brakes the difference is huge. Once I installed mechanical disc brakes dedicated to MTB on a gravel bike and the gear did not brake. The point is that the MTB brake lever has a greater stroke (pulls more cable) than the brake lever on a road bike. You can see it at one of movies on my channel
Ok, i liked the video overall, but cutting the frame reinforcement for the rear wheel area is a bad idea since ita an aluminum frame and it's supposed to be rigid and not flex. Another thing that cought my attention is cutting the bearing race, you are supposed to press it, by cutting it will not be as smooth rolling as it should be and it will absorb and distribute the forces from riding differently. Cutting the race normally wouldn't be much of an issue with a steel or alu steerer but the fork and steerer are carbon i believe, and i would never mess with carbon
Hey thanks for your comment! But i rode it already into the videodescrition and in other comment answers that cutting a aluminium fram can be dangerous. But in my case with my weight i did some tests and measurments and its fine. But of course everything on my own risk! And yes normally i wouldnt cut the race too but in this case it was not possible because of the bad dimensional accuracy of the fork. So i had to cut the race. But normally if you install everyhing corryctly, this wont be a problem but of course i will check regularly (maybe every jear) if everything is like i installed it.
Well done! I really like the fact that you reviewed the installed parts in the and even named the cons of them! Why did you choose a mtb tire instead of a gravel one like the schwalbe g-one?
ficou muito bom mas elita one, sunshine não tem qualidade e guidão ritchey se foi comprado no aliexpress é falso, original é mais fácil de ser encontrado no bikeinn. os freios zoom falhou comigo em uma semana de uso, o caliper traseiro parou de funcionar, o grupo sensah teve relatos de problemas nas primeiras versões mas parece que já foi resolvido
Hi. Are you located in Germany? I am living in Montabaur, DE but I am originally from the USA. I have been in Germany for 2 years now and I am really enjoy converting old trekking bikes to gravel bike. I just completed a steel Merida World Tour converting it to drop bar 1x10 with 11-46 cassette and Durace thumb shifter.
Thanks for sharing. Just wondering, wouldn't have been easier to spend 50-100 euro extra for a frame that takes 700c, internal routing and you don't have to cut parts and alter the structure?
That is pretty drastic change right there! I actually did something in similar but stayed on the 26 inch wheel size because I have aluminum frame and I don't have the tools or the knowledge to cut it the way you did . Which bring me to my question - isn't cutting the aluminum frame stays and some parts don't hurt the integrity of the frame?
Hey, normally you shouldn't saw something off the frame. But in this case the struts are mainly responsible for the rigidity. The frame now flexes a little more. But otherwise I don't see any risk.
@@GuitaristOfEvil Hey thanks for your comment. I know that too. But in this case the frame flex ist a just few Milimeters more i think that is defintly ok.
Fun to watch, but it has been two years, how has the rear triangle held up without the brace you removed? You could have just glued the cable guides on.
“Pipe super high” is a safety issue. You need to be able to stand over the bike with your feet flat on the ground. If you can’t, it’s too big for you and you could hurt yourself (crotch area) in an accident.
Man, this build really confirms my suspicions that gravel bikes really are just old mountain bikes with drop bars
Exactly, but with a rigid fork, larger wheels, disc brakes, gravel tires, brifters, single chainring, larger derailler, etc.
Old mountain bikes have dropbars
The geometry of gravelbikes is actually the came as it was on old Mountainbikes, GCN mentioned it is a vireo.
Some brands even bring out "new bikes" that share the geometry with their old Mountainbikes.
@@SolidSnail21 John Tomac had.
Exactly what I said to the Mrs after watching a similar video lastnight.
i would be interested to see how long & stable that rear triangle will last with the lower support being removed to accomadate new wheel size, other than that nice looking build
I have the same question. I also have an old 26 frame I want to convert, but I'd need to remove the the braces in the rear triangle and wondering if the frame will flex too much.
@@leos7429 650B instead of 29
@@chrisbrookshire861 I did the same project but use 650B
@@dadoupi9836 me too. I had an old mountain bike that I put on a rigid fork and 650b wheels. Worked out really nice.
@@chrisbrookshire861what kind of fork
For people having concerns about modified rear triangle (chainstay bridge cut). While you don't want to do that in a super light thin wall road frame, he is reusing an old MTB frame for gravel use, and his MTB frame is extremely overbuild for that. You can see that the tubes are large size squares, not round, they are very thick walled. That frame is originally designed to do jumps on rocks. There is ZERO danger that anything will be compromised, the old MTB frame after the mods is still many times stronger than a brand new $1000 racing bike frame. It sure weights a ton (this one is probably around 2100+ grams without fork, when Specialized Diverge E5 alloy gravel is around 1200-1300 grams), but it will outlast any high end light weight frame
2:00 This is actually awesome. I didn't think I can cut this part off, now I can convert my 26" into 700c. Thank you
How weak is the bike now?
you should not...
You could also hammer it to gain some clearance
2:00 good bye frame rigidity 😅
Anyways, ambitious project!
Grüße aus Berlin ✋😊
Hey iche habe den Rahemn danach getestet und die Wechselbelastung scheint kein problem für den Rahmen zu sein (steht auch in der Beschreibung). Klar weiß ich nicht wie es nach 10 Jahren Dauerbelastung aussieht aber es war ein erfolgreicher test.
Liebe Grüße
Fatto anche sulla mia bici non cbia nulla per ora già usata un po' di mesi ....nessun peggioramento torsionale 👍
Very cool project, love that you used affordable parts!
Thank you so much!
it is so amaizing that the sound that your grinder made matches the key of your music
Oh nice, but that was not on purpose ;D
Awesome build! I’m glad you’re enjoying the hard work on your rides with it.
Thank you so much!
Nice job. I also built a custom build using the SRX pro 1x11 group set. It works quite well. Thanks for sharing!
Nice! Thank you so much!
I've build myself something similar out of a 26 inch hardtail. Although I chose 27,5 inchers as the hardtail wasn't my size to begin with.
I stuck to the 3 by 9 groupset although I've got rid of a chainring. So now I'm riding a 2 by 9 Gravelbike with dropperbars and triggershifters.
In addition I had to add an adapter for the rear disc brake. Originally went with cheap single piston, now rocking cheap dual piston mechanical brakes.
Cheers
Nice!
Would you mind sharing what adapter did you use for disc brakes on the rear?
@@V_Matviichuk the adapter was included in the brake kit. So i don`t know it sorry.
@@V_Matviichuk Hey, the adapter was included in the X-Tech brake set.
Great build, nice to see someone using normal tools and budget parts. I watched another video where guy (Canadian but cannot remember his UA-cam channel name) mentioned starting a 26er to 29 conversion with a smaller frame than you normally use for a 26er meaning the top tube (pipe) isn't so high but I suppose it depends of geometry of the frame you choose.
Enjoyed watching the build. Enjoy the bike.
The 3D printed cable guides are a 10, genius.
Thank you so so much!
It looks nice and am sure it performs ok too. Just be careful of your new centre of gravity. The bike is now higher than it was designed for and this means that you are riding "higher up" so you cannot quickly put your feet on the ground unless you hop off the saddle. To avoid this you can experiment with shorter forks that give the bike a more suitable BB drop of 5 cm or so. It makes a big difference when stopping at the lights and gives you more of a feel of sitting in the bike than sitting on it when riding.
i have done it and showed it to my channel.. but i didnt cut anything from the frame it was a 26er from 90's, and i just used 27.5 x 1.75 tires..and it worked :) Ride safe sir :) yes,, old frames are heavy coz of the materila steel but i love riding it.. RIDE safe sir.
I'd be curious how the Chinese groupset is holding up
Nice work, man! Btw I'm 111st subscriber.
Nice man! Thank you very much!
I recommend changing the carbon seatpost to aluminum. Your bike has a split seat tube at the back, so the carbon seatpost will wear quickly where the clamp is installed. For carbon poles, the cut on the seat tube is at the front.
Thank you very much for the advise!
@@madebyman4937also the bolt on that clamp looks a bit long😅
Ничего там не износится, все будет нормально.
How did you install a rear disc brake on a rim brake bike?
can show you
I’m did it
WAIT thats the exact same bike I have, and I turned it into a gravel bike too! wow
Awesome!!! Send me pictures ;D
Absolutely beautiful man, subscribed
3:28 => Everithing needs to be written with a 'y'
Everything!
But great T-Shirt slogan at the beginning 👍
Thank you!
Amazing work man! Encouraged me a build my old aspect 50
What this Cranks his working until now? Seeing a very short axle 🧐 maybe buying a similar
I love the CX build especially coming from an old 26er frame Great content and keep up the good work man !!!
Thank you so much!!!
it was very relaxing to watch :)
you can change the front fork to the carbon 27.5. this will lower the frame a bit. the 29 tyre can still fit in the 27.5 rigid fork.
How name riveter in your hand get make screew hole?
I like what you've done to this bike. I'm considering doing my Haro V4 I never ride.
Thanks man!😃
Nice work! Good decision with cables!
Thanks!
congratulations, nice job !!
Thank you very much!
very nice job!! How didi you install disc brakes on this frame? Thank you
Hey thank you very much!
There were already Discbrake mounts on the frame.
How did you do your rear break
Do that fork support quick release wheel?
Nice work
Am from Egypt
Thank you very much!
Nice!
I'm your 100 subscriber :)
Thank you Very much!!!
Nice T-Shirt. Good to know that that Im not alone. But let’s get to your bike. This is impressive. Many people think that’s better to buy a new bike but it’s not true a specially when you have some skills and tools. Friend! Tell me about stiffness of rear wheel after you cut off this small frame part. Please.
so i can use a 29 er frame and make it into a cyclocross bike?
Fantastic bro!
Very helpfull, thanks for sharing
This would be great if I can get my hands on an old Titanium or Stainless steel 29er.
Great video Man, similar to my idea what to do.
Thank you very much!
Absolutely awesome video!
Thank you so much!
Nice bro....one query how you can fit 29" tyer bec frame is comfortable for 26" tyer
Hey. Thank you very much. This frame was build for 28", this is like 29"
Im in the same idea. I got to cut the other aluminium frame. The top one near to the sit. Do you think the frame can manage that?
have any problem when you removed that pieces on the seat stay and on the chain stay ??i made a gravel bike project but im so afraid on remove this parts on my frame and i want know if that parts make some influence on the frame resistance
You should be very carefully because id could get dangerous. but in my case i did maesurments and tests and for my weight everything is fine.
Did the same with a trek dual sport 2022!
Good job. Jesus lives! Amen brother 🙏
Looks great!
Thank You very much!
11:40 - "pipe super high" tope tube being too high - I see that you have selected 29" size for Topseek fork, size 26" is what is needed. 29" size keeps MTB geometry, that's why the wheel opening is so big at the front and the top tube is seating so high.
I'm hoping for a follow up review of the Toseek carbon rigid fork and how it handles the roughness of the road.
I dont know if i will do a review. But i can tell you, so far i am happy with the fork. I alsou rode some realy rough trails and so far nothing happened.
@@madebyman4937 thanks. Been in a dilemma of buying this carbon fork or stay aluminum or invest more for a better carbon fork (which will burn a hole on my wallet). 😅
@@JA-ge7wn I think the Toseek Carbon Fork will be strong enough.
But sometimes the little less weight isnt worth that money, so maybe you can alsou stay with your aluminium fork. Or you can change it later when you are sure you need it.
@@madebyman4937 i have an update. Someone brought an MTB with Toseek carbon rigid fork to my cousin's shop. The bike was pretty banged up because it was involved in an accident. The front rim, crankarms, chainring, and handlebar are bent and aren't salvagable but the rigid fork only has minor scratches. I checked it at all angles and no cracks. Would I recommend using it more after that crash? No. But knowing it wont break after big crashes is a relief.
@@JA-ge7wn Nice good to know!
Nice !
Good job 👍😃
wo hast du die carbon-laufräder her und was haben die gekostet? hm, seit dezember sind inzwischen 3 monate vergangen, bestimmt hat sich der preis inzwischen verdoppelt.
Das sind keine Carbon Laufräder ;D die habe ich einffach ganz günstig bei ebaykleinaneigen gekauft.
Nice, no nonsense build. Great to see as I am looking for something like that to build to ride the shoulder seasons when my MTB or fat bike stay in the garage. Where did you source the the wheels from? I would think those would bring the majority of the cost.
What wheelset did you used ? Ordered something ?
Hey I used a used 28" Wheelset
Amazing, good job man.
Thank you very much!
I hate bridgeless chainstay it's always wobble when off the saddle even when braking though it's easy to clean the mud.
My frame is still stiff enough and i dont have problems
Wie zufrieden bist du mit den xtech Bremsen ? Ich find die gruselig schlecht,, hab schon mit neuen Sinter elägen probiert,. Bremswirkung is gruselig..
Hey, also bei mir haben sie recht ordentlich funktioniert. Natürlich nicht so gut wie hydraulische aber definitiv besser als standart mechanische Scheibenbremsen. Liebe grüße Martin
I think you may have voided the warranty on that frame.
What is the frame size???
War der Rahmen schon für Scheibenbremse vorbereitet oder ist das ein Adapter hinten?
Hey, der Rahmen war bereits vorbereitet.
Hello,
You still use sensah srx pro groupset until now?how about the performance after 4 month?it still good?.thank you
Hey i rode it some time and had no issues. I sold the bike but told the buyer to tell me if something should happen. so far everything good.
Amazing
Nice one we have same project gravel bike but mine is a monster gravel coz I want a wide tires been in a narrow tires but I don't like it.
But how a 29 "tyre can fit in 26"frame????
I removed something from the frame, you can see it in the video ;)
@@madebyman4937 I have removed "something "before 2 years.but it can't work.29" too big for my frame.
@@vm8804 Maybe not al kinds of frames will work. Sorry
Did you paint a clear coat on the frame? Thanks.
hey,
No, I didn't apply clear coat. You don't really need it on aluminum.
@@madebyman4937 Thanks
Just fantastic build, cheers man! Love from Italy
Thank you very much!
Nice!
Thank you very much!
I know it’s a aluminium frame but I’m quite disappointed that u didn’t paint it but a fantastic built btw
I Like RAW frames with black components. And also you do not see scratches ;D
Shifty spanner on nuts and cutting disk for grinding :/ ? Well done sir, indeed well done XD!
To think that we have the same body frame i think i need to make my mountain bike gravel
How did you mount the brakes?
Hey i mount them like rular brakes.
Хорошо получилось)
How did you put diskbrake in the back? Adaptor? Great vid btw
Hey, the frame had already mountingholes for discbrakes. And Thanks very much.
He welded the mounts onto the frame at 2:00
Beautiful
And also bro what model is the bike's frame? Thank you!
The frame was an old Univega Alpina
Nice project, but I don't get why you took off the original top tube cable guides... just to drill the frame and install your own 3D printed versions...
Hey, i didnt like the look of running cables at the top. Also i didnt need all of them. And thank you very much!
Cutting the frame in that way is dangerous especially with aluminum frames.
Hey
You are right. Everyone should be carefull. But with my weight in this case it shouldnt be a problem.
Cutting the cable guides and the brake mounts should be fine.
Now for the bracing between the chainstays, is another story...
I would rather do a mullet 29" - 27.5" setup, but as long as the bike stays rigid enough I guess...
Do these brakes ZOOM XTECH HB100 hybrid brakes work well in combination with roadbike shifters? Are they not dedicated only to MTB?
Hey,
in my case it works absolutly fine. And i don´t think that it matters a lot if its a shifter from a roadbike or a mtb
@@madebyman4937 in mechanical disc brakes the difference is huge. Once I installed mechanical disc brakes dedicated to MTB on a gravel bike and the gear did not brake. The point is that the MTB brake lever has a greater stroke (pulls more cable) than the brake lever on a road bike. You can see it at one of movies on my channel
@@Oldbikerestorations oh ok thanks for the Information. In this case it worked great.
@@madebyman4937 thx for answer
Ok, i liked the video overall, but cutting the frame reinforcement for the rear wheel area is a bad idea since ita an aluminum frame and it's supposed to be rigid and not flex.
Another thing that cought my attention is cutting the bearing race, you are supposed to press it, by cutting it will not be as smooth rolling as it should be and it will absorb and distribute the forces from riding differently. Cutting the race normally wouldn't be much of an issue with a steel or alu steerer but the fork and steerer are carbon i believe, and i would never mess with carbon
Hey thanks for your comment!
But i rode it already into the videodescrition and in other comment answers that cutting a aluminium fram can be dangerous. But in my case with my weight i did some tests and measurments and its fine. But of course everything on my own risk!
And yes normally i wouldnt cut the race too but in this case it was not possible because of the bad dimensional accuracy of the fork. So i had to cut the race. But normally if you install everyhing corryctly, this wont be a problem but of course i will check regularly (maybe every jear) if everything is like i installed it.
Hi, what model of clip pedals you used? Thanks for sharing.
Hey,
i used the Crankbrothers Candy 1.
is the bike still intact?
Hey,
yes the bike is still intact and i did ride some realy ruff trails.
Well done! I really like the fact that you reviewed the installed parts in the and even named the cons of them! Why did you choose a mtb tire instead of a gravel one like the schwalbe g-one?
Thank you very much. Becuase the Schwalbe Smart Sam tire is very cheap and you will get much more grip on trail then on the g one.
I have this 26er chromoly Trek frame, what fork was used on this video? Thanks mate
I used a 29" Toseek carbon fork.
Nice Bike! What ist the whaight in total?
Thank you very much!
The total weight is 10,5kg
Ficou muito bonito
Great job, mate. Maybe the new fork is to big.
Thank you so much!
Frame size? Wheelset s29?
Yes 29" Wheelset
ficou muito bom mas elita one, sunshine não tem qualidade e guidão ritchey se foi comprado no aliexpress é falso, original é mais fácil de ser encontrado no bikeinn. os freios zoom falhou comigo em uma semana de uso, o caliper traseiro parou de funcionar, o grupo sensah teve relatos de problemas nas primeiras versões mas parece que já foi resolvido
That fork looks ridiculous on that frame 🤣
Hi. Are you located in Germany? I am living in Montabaur, DE but I am originally from the USA. I have been in Germany for 2 years now and I am really enjoy converting old trekking bikes to gravel bike. I just completed a steel Merida World Tour converting it to drop bar 1x10 with 11-46 cassette and Durace thumb shifter.
Hey
Yes i am from Germany.
Nice
Nice build bro! Can I ask what kind of fork did you use? Tapered or non tapered?
Thank you man. I used a non tapered
Thanks for sharing. Just wondering, wouldn't have been easier to spend 50-100 euro extra for a frame that takes 700c, internal routing and you don't have to cut parts and alter the structure?
That is pretty drastic change right there!
I actually did something in similar but stayed on the 26 inch wheel size because I have aluminum frame and I don't have the tools or the knowledge to cut it the way you did . Which bring me to my question - isn't cutting the aluminum frame stays and some parts don't hurt the integrity of the frame?
Hey, normally you shouldn't saw something off the frame. But in this case the struts are mainly responsible for the rigidity. The frame now flexes a little more. But otherwise I don't see any risk.
@@madebyman4937 It may doesn't matter on a steel frame but since aluminum is not supposed to flex too much I'd be concerned about that.
@@GuitaristOfEvil Hey thanks for your comment. I know that too. But in this case the frame flex ist a just few Milimeters more i think that is defintly ok.
@@madebyman4937 lasts as long as it lasts I guess. Nice one
@@GuitaristOfEvil Me too!!
Nice transformation!
Weight and where to buy the parts would be awesome!
Thank you very much. I added a list with all parts in the video description.
How much did you spend in this? Isn't it cheaper to buy a new one?
If you get a old bike for free, it is definitly cheaper to build one yourself. I spend maybe around 400€ for new parts.
Fun to watch, but it has been two years, how has the rear triangle held up without the brace you removed?
You could have just glued the cable guides on.
Just buy an eighties MTB and you magically have yourself a nice "Gravel bike".
Obcinarke do rur się używa a nie brzeszot do tego 😱
“Pipe super high” is a safety issue. You need to be able to stand over the bike with your feet flat on the ground. If you can’t, it’s too big for you and you could hurt yourself (crotch area) in an accident.
Hey of course i can stand on the feeds flat, i still want to get kids ;D. But thanks for the warning.
Nice build! What tool you used to insert the threads for your cableguides? 🤔
Hey, i used rivet nut pliers.
In German: Nietmutterzange
ecelente progeto muinto top mesmo ganho mais um escrito
Thank you very much!