Made 4 adapters last night. Various tips, looking good. I might caution of the glass dust one will make after the crimp is breached. Dremel worked great with cut-off wheels. Loving it! Thanks again! have a good day.
I love this! I started to make one of those last week but got sidetracked... But that's a good thing because you showed how to cut the crimp to remove the porcelain. You are going to save me a whole bunch of messing around. Thanks so much.
@@VintageEngineRepairs you helped big time! I'm never too old to learn new tricks. I was going to beat the porcelain out of a plug 🤦 Now I can just fire up the die grinder which is already on the bench and have that out in no time 😁😎👍 I'm gearing up to do crankcase testing on saws, I have a pressure tester and a vacuum tester. I just need to make the plug and the rubber gaskets and I'm good to go
@@VintageEngineRepairs right. my thought is that since the engine is surrounded with plastic, there's no way to ground the plug and see if it's sparking
@@mickdog2 I made a tester this way. Used a non resistor plug, broke off the tip, soldered a wire to the body of the plug, and put a clamp on the end of the wire. I use it a lot.
@@VintageEngineRepairs I cut two cheap spark plugs with a die grinder. The porcelain came out of one fairly easily, the other one was a PITA. But now I have a way to pressure and vacuum test all of my small engines. Thank you!!! Making this little tool was easy, because I happened to have plenty of spare spark plugs laying around. Doesn't every DIYer?? Thanks again for the video!!!
Outstanding Tom, I have glass reinforced plastic barbs for in ground use also, I will give that ago too. Will let you know, brass is great. Epoxy’s have advanced tremendously as long as surface is clean, gently rough or scuff for best adhesion. Great vid, and that Wicker Packer video was awesome! I can say we use to abuse those things! Let out in the elements etc, rough life on those machines. Take care, thanks again.
I used a chop saw on the metal shoulder, held the plug with a socket Ground down the remaining metal lip on a stone wheel Punch for the resister removal Soldered the hose adapter inside the plug’s metal case Thank you for the video
Well...I made 2 adapters Normal plug thread M14x1.25mm Compression tester is M14 Motorbikes n qauds M12x1.25mm Some trimmers n chainsaws M10x1.00mm There is M8 but they're glow plugs. Anyway I removed crimp with hacksaw n tapped out porcelain after cutting hook off, it was easy BUT the hole remaining in the M12 & M10 was actually the correct size to run my spark plug helicoil tap, only the M14 part of tap. Hey presto! I can now do compression, leak down and pressure tests My adapter for pressure testing is a 2 stroke decompressor body (M14) with diaphragm part removed and a carby inlet tube cut and fixed in the hole You have to be innovative, I also have a set of block off plates n rubber to block carby hole n exhaust
Thanks for your tip on converting a spark plug for pressure and vacuum testing , it works a treat. I made up 4 for stock and different plug sizes. I have another question regarding my compression tester. I was struggling to get anything over 50 psi on any of perfectly running range of chainsaws and scrubcutters etc. I think I caught you saying something about different strength Schader valves ? Is there a specific one to use ?
Ah yes you need a small engine compression tester! Not an automotive style. Check it is designed for small engines and has a schrader valve. If after that it still is not a normal reading, then consider the weight of the spring of the schrader valve.
Instead of cutting a spark plug open, can I just use the little adapters that came with my compression tester? They fit the threads, and there is a hole in the middle to fit the hose fitting.
More difficult than shown. Cut off SP end like described, but it’s solid stuck tight, cut off more of the end further over the bolt part. Still not enough, banged hard and a lot with a metal punch both sides of inner rod. Not much left to glue in BSB. He didn’t show it coming out in video, the hardest part of all. Took a good hour just for that part.
@@VintageEngineRepairs Yes I did, but the thread was hacked. Oh well. Sometimes it pays to pay for one. Maybe because it was a newish spark plug. Where are you in Australia do you offer service?
I have been looking on Amazon for those barbed/threaded fittings. The sizes are a bit confusing; some images don't match. You show a 10mm hose barb and 1/4" BSP threaded fitting. A smaller hose barb should be just fine, say 1/4". The threaded end??? Is the 1/4" the ID? What is the outside diameter, that is what matters. Also there are NPT threads that should also work. I think that the threaded fittings will be about 2mm bigger on the outside? A number of people commented that they ended up going to their hardware store to get the part they needed, after ordering what they thought was correct online.
@@VintageEngineRepairs I will try. I will take a couple burnt out plugs apart to measure better. The shelves in my local hardware store have limited choices, and usually higher prices. I think you used a 1/4 inch threaded fitting, inside diameter. I'll have to try a larger hardware store in a nearby town, if I go there. It is a 12 mile drive for me to go to the smaller closer hardware store, so ordering a part is many times easier, and cheaper. I am awaiting now various parts for my chainsaws, and other engines, ordered online, Cutter's Choice! and Amazon
@@VintageEngineRepairs I took apart and finished nicely a dead CJ8 spark plug. I could have used a lawnmower plug but that reaches in further, and most of what I will need to do, is a pressure or vacuum test on saws that take a CJ8. I measured so I don't have to drive 45 minutes each way to hopefully find the correct part. I think I have found suitable parts on line. Ordering soonish. The inside of the former spark plug measures 15mm. Most threaded brass ends are about a mm thick. A 10mm NPT or other thread end, measured inside, plus 2mm each side, is 12mm, leaving 3mm room for glue. I am going to try getting 1/4 inch hose barb, and 1/4" threaded end(or slightly larger). Am I missing something? Let me know. I don't have a vacuum tool as yet, but do have a carb. pressure tool, so can do half a pressure test when I get this fitting made ;-) Update: I ended up ordering two size fittings online. Both with 1/4" hose barbs. One 1/4" and one 3/16" NPT. The 1/4" barb & NPT, arrived first and is the perfect size I needed. The 3/16 inch NPT, that is on the way, should work to make a smaller version. I reduced the depth of thread on the 1/4" NPT fitting end, by half, so it sits in better; and I made sure none of the glue was wider than the hex of the former spark plug, so I CAN use a socket with it. I used Permatex metal epoxy, after a final cleaning of parts with acetone. I CAN just fit, onto the barb, after a bit of stretching, a 1/16" ID hose. Of course 1/4" hose fits easily, but I noted that my current carb. pressure tester has 1/16" ID hose. A fitting of 1/16 inch hose barb X 1/4 inch NPT(or other thread), would also be a good option if using smaller than 1/4" ID hose. Now I just need to find some rubber to make wedges, and I can pressure test.
A friend stopped by my shop and suggested that I could braze the two parts together, and be certain of a seal. I explained to him, that I need silver braze for this job, so as to not melt the brass/copper, but yes, this too would be a good option. I think though, these two metal bonding glues do a fine job, if applied carefully. Mine looks sealed; still curing.
Any advice on what to do if the porcelain doesn’t come out after removing the crimp? Edit: I dug through some white powder with a pick. There was a ring under it holding it in. This was a NGK BPMR7A if anyone else has this issue. Also get the 1/4 1/4 fitting not the 1/4 3/8 fitting
i tried to make one today but the "brass" fitting they sell locally is made in china and melts way faster than than the brazing rod....like its made out of brass colored solder ....ridiculous
@@VintageEngineRepairs i cleaned out a second spark plug this afternoon and then grabbed the small hose i planned to use on my hand pump so i could use them to choose a new fitting but i quickly found out the hose fits nice and tight in the plug case hole so im going to try it just like that for now ...then epoxy a new fitting if it doesnt hold
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Since I have some old sparkplugs, this will be a good project to try. Thanks for the how to!!
You’re welcome!!
This was a well put together video, great stuff and a handy little DIY tool!
Thanks AJ!
Invaluable advice bud, thank you.
You’re welcome mate :)
Made 4 adapters last night. Various tips, looking good. I might caution of the glass dust one will make after the crimp is breached. Dremel worked great with cut-off wheels. Loving it! Thanks again! have a good day.
Thanks Dennis, I’m glad you are all set to go!!
That’s amazing. I just tried to think about how to make one of those appreciate it.
Glad it helped :)
Good idea, it's always nice to save a buck on tools
Absolutely! Thanks mate :)
Thankyou so much for making this video much appreciated .
You’re very welcome!
Good tip. I’m making one today.
Great to hear! Let me know how you go :)
I love this! I started to make one of those last week but got sidetracked... But that's a good thing because you showed how to cut the crimp to remove the porcelain. You are going to save me a whole bunch of messing around. Thanks so much.
You’re very welcome :) glad it helped!
@@VintageEngineRepairs you helped big time! I'm never too old to learn new tricks. I was going to beat the porcelain out of a plug 🤦 Now I can just fire up the die grinder which is already on the bench and have that out in no time 😁😎👍 I'm gearing up to do crankcase testing on saws, I have a pressure tester and a vacuum tester. I just need to make the plug and the rubber gaskets and I'm good to go
I was thinking of something like that coupled with a wire with a battery charging clamp, for grounding the spark plug when testing for spark
I’m sure it would work; but you’d be better using a plug as they all have resistors nowadays’
@@VintageEngineRepairs right. my thought is that since the engine is surrounded with plastic, there's no way to ground the plug and see if it's sparking
@@mickdog2 I made a tester this way. Used a non resistor plug, broke off the tip, soldered a wire to the body of the plug, and put a clamp on the end of the wire. I use it a lot.
Thank you for getting me to make this tool. This has helped me a many times repairing engines. Peace too. vf
Glad it was helpful!
Nice idea Tom👏👏
Thank you :)
wow, wow, great video👍👍👍
Thanks!
Wow. That's so amazing. Thank you so much.
You’re welcome!
Nice home made tool Tom, thanks for the video. 👍
Thanks Brother :)
Great video!!!! You gained a new subscriber! Thank you sir!!!
Oh awesome, thanks!! ☺️
@@VintageEngineRepairs I cut two cheap spark plugs with a die grinder. The porcelain came out of one fairly easily, the other one was a PITA. But now I have a way to pressure and vacuum test all of my small engines.
Thank you!!!
Making this little tool was easy, because I happened to have plenty of spare spark plugs laying around. Doesn't every DIYer??
Thanks again for the video!!!
Outstanding Tom, I have glass reinforced plastic barbs for in ground use also, I will give that ago too. Will let you know, brass is great. Epoxy’s have advanced tremendously as long as surface is clean, gently rough or scuff for best adhesion. Great vid, and that Wicker Packer video was awesome! I can say we use to abuse those things! Let out in the elements etc, rough life on those machines. Take care, thanks again.
Thanks Dennis! Glad you enjoyed this and the other video (Wacker packer). Thanks for commenting and sharing!
you do some bloody good Videos Tom well done 👌
Thank you Nev!
Excellent idea! A MityVac is on its way but I wasn't sure just how to connect to the engine.
Awesome :) enjoy!
That’s ingenious! I didn’t know you could take a spark plug apart like that.
Glad you enjoyed it!
great job
Thank you!
I used a chop saw on the metal shoulder, held the plug with a socket
Ground down the remaining metal lip on a stone wheel
Punch for the resister removal
Soldered the hose adapter inside the plug’s metal case
Thank you for the video
Awesome! Good job 👍🏻👍🏻
Just what I was looking for. Thanks!
You’re welcome :)
Great video. Improvisation is great fun, and saves you money too.
Thanks mate you’re spot on!
I welded an M style air quick couple in my leak down tester. That would work great for this as well. I don't have one this size.
Nice!
New to your channel enjoying videos. Wish you had spark plug in vise or clamped somehow when cutting. I am worried about your fingers
Thanks for your concern! Glad you enjoyed the video apart from that :)
Well...I made 2 adapters
Normal plug thread M14x1.25mm
Compression tester is M14
Motorbikes n qauds M12x1.25mm
Some trimmers n chainsaws M10x1.00mm
There is M8 but they're glow plugs.
Anyway I removed crimp with hacksaw n tapped out porcelain after cutting hook off, it was easy
BUT the hole remaining in the M12 & M10 was actually the correct size to run my spark plug helicoil tap, only the M14 part of tap.
Hey presto! I can now do compression, leak down and pressure tests
My adapter for pressure testing is a 2 stroke decompressor body (M14) with diaphragm part removed and a carby inlet tube cut and fixed in the hole
You have to be innovative,
I also have a set of block off plates n rubber to block carby hole n exhaust
Awesome! Good work :)
Why did the walrus go to the tupperware party? 🤔
Not sure! Why?!
To find a tight seal. 😳
@@Syncop8rNZ LOL 🤦♂️
💀💀💀
This is great! Going to try this. Why can’t you leave the washer on instead of replacing it with an o ring though?
It doesn’t seal well if it’s been crushed :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs got it. Thank you. Does that mean you can get compression issues from putting a used spark plug back in?
What a great idea. Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome :)
Great video, as usual.
Thank you!
Hey sir. What brand of compression tester do you have?
Hey, it’s a kincrome one.
@@VintageEngineRepairs does it have a long hose on it or is it short.
Why not use the original crush washer? How is the o-ring better?
Hey, the crush washer once crushed may not seal effectively on other machines. 👍
Thanks for your tip on converting a spark plug for pressure and vacuum testing , it works a treat. I made up 4 for stock and different plug sizes.
I have another question regarding my compression tester. I was struggling to get anything over 50 psi on any of perfectly running range of chainsaws and scrubcutters etc. I think I caught you saying something about different strength Schader valves ? Is there a specific one to use ?
Ah yes you need a small engine compression tester! Not an automotive style. Check it is designed for small engines and has a schrader valve. If after that it still is not a normal reading, then consider the weight of the spring of the schrader valve.
Instead of cutting a spark plug open, can I just use the little adapters that came with my compression tester? They fit the threads, and there is a hole in the middle to fit the hose fitting.
Yes! If there isn’t a schrader valve in it!
Very nice one's...i ordered from Husqvarna, 10 mm and 14mm🤝
Nice!! I’d like to get a machined set :),
WOW
👍
Great !!
Thanks :)
Feed that Emu!!!🤣👍🍺
You’ve lost me 🤣
@@VintageEngineRepairs I keep hearing him in the background.
Welcome to my world. I'm lost most of the time. 👀
Very helpful video though.👍🍻
@@williamemerson1799 hahaha
More difficult than shown. Cut off SP end like described, but it’s solid stuck tight, cut off more of the end further over the bolt part. Still not enough, banged hard and a lot with a metal punch both sides of inner rod. Not much left to glue in BSB. He didn’t show it coming out in video, the hardest part of all. Took a good hour just for that part.
It may need a tap
More like a jack hammer. Love your videos.
Did you get it out? Thanks for the kind words!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Yes I did, but the thread was hacked. Oh well. Sometimes it pays to pay for one. Maybe because it was a newish spark plug. Where are you in Australia do you offer service?
I have been looking on Amazon for those barbed/threaded fittings. The sizes are a bit confusing; some images don't match. You show a 10mm hose barb and 1/4" BSP threaded fitting.
A smaller hose barb should be just fine, say 1/4".
The threaded end??? Is the 1/4" the ID? What is the outside diameter, that is what matters. Also there are NPT threads that should also work. I think that the threaded fittings will be about 2mm bigger on the outside?
A number of people commented that they ended up going to their hardware store to get the part they needed, after ordering what they thought was correct online.
I’d just go to your hardware store and make sure the barb fits your spark plug threaded portion :) saves a lot of guesswork!
@@VintageEngineRepairs I will try. I will take a couple burnt out plugs apart to measure better. The shelves in my local hardware store have limited choices, and usually higher prices. I think you used a 1/4 inch threaded fitting, inside diameter. I'll have to try a larger hardware store in a nearby town, if I go there. It is a 12 mile drive for me to go to the smaller closer hardware store, so ordering a part is many times easier, and cheaper. I am awaiting now various parts for my chainsaws, and other engines, ordered online, Cutter's Choice! and Amazon
@@VintageEngineRepairs I took apart and finished nicely a dead CJ8 spark plug. I could have used a lawnmower plug but that reaches in further, and most of what I will need to do, is a pressure or vacuum test on saws that take a CJ8.
I measured so I don't have to drive 45 minutes each way to hopefully find the correct part. I think I have found suitable parts on line. Ordering soonish. The inside of the former spark plug measures 15mm. Most threaded brass ends are about a mm thick. A 10mm NPT or other thread end, measured inside, plus 2mm each side, is 12mm, leaving 3mm room for glue.
I am going to try getting 1/4 inch hose barb, and 1/4" threaded end(or slightly larger).
Am I missing something? Let me know. I don't have a vacuum tool as yet, but do have a carb. pressure tool, so can do half a pressure test when I get this fitting made ;-)
Update: I ended up ordering two size fittings online. Both with 1/4" hose barbs. One 1/4" and one 3/16" NPT. The 1/4" barb & NPT, arrived first and is the perfect size I needed.
The 3/16 inch NPT, that is on the way, should work to make a smaller version.
I reduced the depth of thread on the 1/4" NPT fitting end, by half, so it sits in better; and I made sure none of the glue was wider than the hex of the former spark plug, so I CAN use a socket with it.
I used Permatex metal epoxy, after a final cleaning of parts with acetone.
I CAN just fit, onto the barb, after a bit of stretching, a 1/16" ID hose. Of course 1/4" hose fits easily, but I noted that my current carb. pressure tester has 1/16" ID hose.
A fitting of 1/16 inch hose barb X 1/4 inch NPT(or other thread), would also be a good option if using smaller than 1/4" ID hose.
Now I just need to find some rubber to make wedges, and I can pressure test.
A friend stopped by my shop and suggested that I could braze the two parts together, and be certain of a seal. I explained to him, that I need silver braze for this job, so as to not melt the brass/copper, but yes, this too would be a good option. I think though, these two metal bonding glues do a fine job, if applied carefully. Mine looks sealed; still curing.
does this works for an air leak test on a 2 stroke?
Yes that’s correct :)
Any advice on what to do if the porcelain doesn’t come out after removing the crimp?
Edit: I dug through some white powder with a pick. There was a ring under it holding it in. This was a NGK BPMR7A if anyone else has this issue. Also get the 1/4 1/4 fitting not the 1/4 3/8 fitting
Yep you’ve got to get right through that crimp starting from the flat hex inwards.
What about 'hot glue' instead of epoxy?
Yep! Will work perfectly :)
I see much love 😘
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Noice!!
Haha are you Aussi? I instantly thought of Kat and Kim 🤣
Apparently I'm the only one that had the porcelain part of the spark plug glued inside.
Strange, it shouldn’t be!
👍🏼
👍
i tried to make one today but the "brass" fitting they sell locally is made in china and melts way faster than than the brazing rod....like its made out of brass colored solder ....ridiculous
That’s annoying! Best to stick to epoxy 👍🏻
@@VintageEngineRepairs i cleaned out a second spark plug this afternoon and then grabbed the small hose i planned to use on my hand pump so i could use them to choose a new fitting but i quickly found out the hose fits nice and tight in the plug case hole so im going to try it just like that for now ...then epoxy a new fitting if it doesnt hold
Or you could just buy one for 10 dollars on E Bay.
They’re more expensive here sadly, but at that price, absolutely!