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Ford F-150 & Expedition Front Stabilizer Link Replacement
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
- Listed below are the tools and parts used to complete this job:
Tie Rod End Puller-
www.amazon.com/...
Tie Rod End Puller Front End Kit-
www.amazon.com/...
Stabilizer Links I recommend-(check fitment guide)
www.amazon.com/...
Mopar Rust penetrant I use-
www.amazon.com/...
Blue medium strength Loctite-
www.amazon.com/...
In this video we go over just how easy it can be to replace these links with a few tips and tricks.
BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomoti...
Facebook:
/ bsgautomotive
Check us out-
Facebook: / fordtechmakuloco
Twitter: / fordtechmak
Instagram: / fordtechmakuloco
My company UA-cam Channel- BSG Automotive providing repair advice on makes and models other than Ford: / bsgautomotive1
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This guy is good his step by step is phenomenal. A high school, Jr college would be blessed to have him !!
You ever thought about being a professor/teacher at an automotive school? Very thorough, very knowledgeable and good at explaining to all audiences. I really enjoy your clips.
+none ofyourbusiness I have thought about it yes
Hes making too much money turning wrenches,lol
He pretty much already is except he is teaching the world instead of just a school. Professor FordTech
He already is to about 636,000 students
@@FordTechMakuloco
*Eight years later…*
_825k grateful students._
Love ya brother. 🔧
These videos have saved me so much time, money and frustration when I work on my 09 F150. I appreciate what you’re doing!
I have watched your videos and managed to do all repairs on my 2005 f150.
You are detailed en every aspect of the repair and I really appreciate all the torque specs.
I had no previous experience in automotive mechanics a d you walked me step by step on rebuilding my 06 explorer 4.0 engine which has been running great for the last 9 months.
Thank you very much for everything you do that not only makes us understand how everything works past the ignition key you also help us save money.
2 1997's and currently own a 05 f150 and i wanted to thank you. You saved my ass many times. Couldn't be more thankful. The beers on me
This is the great thing about old automotive videos, they are almost always relevant to someone, no matter how old they are.
As much as I'm capable when it comes to this stuff, the "Tips-n-Tricks" are pretty invaluable, in all your videos.
-one thing, my "cheapo" ball joint tool was actually too short for the upper tie rod, I was about to simply cut the bolt shorter to get it to fit (since the part is I throw away, doesn't matter much anyway) but instead I was able to get it to break loose with a hammer and some heat from a MAP Gas torch, on the sway bar itself.
Just wanted to put this out there for anyone else that may read these comments.
Your the MAN!! It doesn't matter what issue I have with my ford. I come to this channel and I ALWAYS find a video on how to fix my issue and you have links as well. Thanks again for the help I needed so much with.
I just wanted to say thank you for showing me the hex. I spun the 18 mm bolt for half a hour then I watched you video and had victory. God bless you and your family.
Hey Brian! I want to say thank you for making these videos. With your help I have been able to do a number of jobs on my F-150 5.4 3v including replacing hubs, ball joints, pinion seal, spark plugs etc... Thanks for all your tips, and keep up the good work!
@Cliff Mccrady well my old man owned the truck before me and he had them changed at a friends shop and they put the champion ones in. His buddy said all 8 of the factory ones broke when he took them out. I'm lucky I didnt have to deal with the factory plugs. I wish you luck!
The video really helped us as we changed the links last week. I will say we had a bit of an issue as the last guy to put the links on used an impact wrench and likely did not torque the upper link to the sway bar. They were so tight we couldn’t get them off. So here is a tip: when you get the bottoms off just remove the sway bar and use a hydraulic press, worked great and we should have just started that way. The mechanic said in his twenty years he has never seen a link like that so tight it wouldn’t come off. All good now, thanks again.
I don't even have a ford truck. 😄 I just love how he teaches us step by step. I'm a woman , so... yeah 💅🏿
Thanks young man 🙌🏿🙌🏿
I just came here to say a big THANK YOU for the tips. It was the "nightmare" type of job for me for sure, everything what could wrong - went wrong, haha. This information helped a ton with replacing the front stabilizer links.
5 years later, thank you for this video and I do not understand people's obsession with everything be greasable vs sealed joints. I've tried both and it's unnecessary maintenance greasing them every oil change or so. Love your videos, have really helped me with my Ecoboost f150, been getting the parts for the timing chain replacement and I feel confident with the install with your videos on that subject.
Once again, @fordtechmakuloco saves my but. Can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge and helping me keep my 20 year old ford humming along.
PS The tie rod end removal tool is the real hero in this.Knowing these things really shows your experience, sir. I thought I was going to beat it into submission with a hammer but that proved futile. so I ended up going to Napa and getting the tool. kind of pricey but made quick work of that top bolt and the job was done within minutes..... THANKS AGAIN!!!
Nice vid! Just did my 2003 expedition today after watching the video a few times, borrowed a tie rod end puller from autozone for under $40 (you get it all back once its returned) and definitely glad I did because it's a must to knock it loose. Thanx a lot.
Just changed the sway bar links on my 2004 f150, I had the same problems as you mentioned like the shaft spinning, mainly I had trouble with getting the top stud out. I managed to get it out but it would have helped if I had watched your video then I would have found out about using a tie rod removal tool. When I did the upper and lower ball joints I watched your video to make sure that I did it right, thank you for your videos, they are a great educational tool for people to watch and fix it on their own and save hundreds of dollars in the process!
I did mine today in my anyway to make your life easy remove the whole stabilizer bar assembled and remove the stabilizer link bottom bolts, I remove the whole assembly and the removal of the stabilizer bolts was easy to remove. Thanks for the video, help me attack this job my self save me a lot of money.🤙🏾👍🏾👏🏾🇯🇲🇨🇦✌️🏾.
Still watching after 5 years love your video’s ❤️
I owe you numerous beers! Started out watching your 4 pt vid on replacing timing on 5.4, had to watch oil pan drop vid, stripped stab link, had to watch stab replacement, .....next up will be exhaust manifold replacement, broken stud removal, and then figure why AC quit....you’ll get my....I mean, I’ll get my truck working like new again! Haha
This is the most outstanding insructional video I've ever seen on UA-cam. This man is an exceptional instructor. Not that it truly matters, but it wouldn't surprise me that he's prior military.
USMC
Hi All, in my 2008 they were so rusted that they had to be cut out with the grinder there was no other way to take them out. Im glad that I went to the mechanic. The total job of changing the front 2 Wheel Bearings, 2 actuators and 2 Tie Rod Ends, 2 Sway Bars, and 2 lower ball joints took literally 8 hours at the mechanic shop and cost 700 plus a small tip and tax. There was no way I would be able to do it my self. In my car, everything was so rusted that the torch had to be used everywhere
The pry bar on the sway bar was the trick, thanks man!
Thanks for the video, I just did mine today on an 04, wasn't as easy to get them off and new ones on. I have a heavy duty strut that also levels truck 2 inches, had to drop that to get stab bar in and out.
On a 2006 Lincoln Navigator, because ot the way the A-Frame is made, the lower bolt is in a cup that is recessed deeper than the bolt is long. It ended up being a genuine Royal PITA.
The 18mm nut had come out about 1/4" but wouldn't go any further. I couldn't get a hold of the 10 mm hex end with the 18mm socket on, and couldn't get a wrench on the nut due to the bolt being recessed into the A-Frame.
The Final solution was inserting a 6" long, 1/4" extension through the center hole a 3/4" Spark Plug Socket, with a 1/4" 10mm socket. With the Spark Plug Socket, I was able to hold the nut (not the same size as the nut but close enough) with a 7/8" open end wrench on the Lands and turn the 10 mm hex end to get the nut out.
Where there's a will, there's a way, even if it's a bit unorthodox.
Thanks for the video!
Later
you do the absolute best videos if it weren't for you I may have much Chevy LOL thanks for a good job appreciate you
Great vid - thanks!
After following your guidance, even if I did have cheap'ees that needed replacement in 6 months this procedure was not too bad at all- frankly, about as painful as changing my oil. Im sooo thankful it worked out as easy as it did for me- not my usual experience and expectations.
I did'nt even have to take off my tires,,, wh'oh- safer and awesome! I jacked my truck where your jack stand is in the vid to relieve the tension on the suspension and link and I was able to get them out with just minimal persuasion.
You are a very reliable source!
Hi Brian, love my Milwaukee 18 fuel impact, only drawback is it is so dam hard to handle with one hand just from it being so heavy, but still wish I had one 30 years ago. On my 2005 expedition the lower control arm completely encloses the nut and stud. I found the best way is to instead of trying to get the lower nut off, I set my impact to forward and tighten the nut till it snapps off. Have not had any problems with damaging the lower control arm, and is a hell of a lot easier than trying to zip these off. Great videos as always. Thank you, learned allot from watching your channel.
I can’t tell you enough how thankful I am I found your UA-cam page. I’ve done so much work and saved so much money. Because of your step-by-step videos when I’m working on my 07 Ford F-150 5.4 FX4. PS I just bought a t-shirt
This is by far the best Ford mechanic channels ever. I used your video to diagnose and change out my front driver side hub and bearing on my 2010 Expedition. My only problem is that I'm still getting the same road noise sound I was hearing before the change. Any ideas why I'm still hearing the noise? Thanks.
great video, this will be helpful for years to come
Thanks for the informative video! That was exactly the problem with my truck, and when I had taken it off I found that whoever had the vehicle before I bought it Jimmy rigged it! The bar had broken from both the top and bottom and they tack welded both ends together 😕
Brother, thanks for the tips. I’ve done these on an 07 explorer and 98 F150that were straight. But my truck had the angled ones. Got all the way to getting the top out but it would not come out. Two taps with my little sledge and they popped right out. Thanks again!!!
The economy is so trash. You've seriously saved my family from being bankrupt. ty
Excellent video: audio and visuals. Will compliment my efforts as a Scouting MERIT BADGE Counselor for Automotive Maintenance and to educate my children and Home School students. Appreciate your attention to details with emphasises on cleaning and using the right tool to accomplish the task. Aye! Capt Rick in Central Texas. Acadahm Briggs de Killeen (ABdK).
10:21 was my favorite part
Your repair videos are very helpful you should be teaching an automotive repair class again great information about this 👍
Great video. Thank you for providing such detail to include the torque specs.
I have the same annoying problem...on Ford 2004..I changed everything except this part..thank thank you for the video
Thank....You!!! I have always found what I needed from you for my Fords
On my '05 Grand Marquis, you have to take the brake cal and rotor off to get to the upper part of the sway bar link because it is attached to the steering knuckle.
fairly simple job that can make a big difference in handling. good vid
I used a mini torch, worked wonders. Everything always looks easy on video.
+afjrotc20041 Wow never seen one stuck that bad.
+FordTechMakuloco yep. Good ol Navigator. What's the model of that Milwaukee impact?
+afjrotc20041 It's their latest 1/2" monster-amzn.to/1pxOPQ3
Sometimes a sawzall works best for those. Maybe it depends on the application. I did one on the rear of a continental and the nut binded up. Hex was in very bad shape. Took out Mr. Sazwall with a diablo demolition blade. The aftermarket ones come with flats. The OEM ones were actually a type of plastic, not such a great idea.
+alb12345672 ....I've used a 4" cut off grinder, super fast
I have a 2004 f150 4x4 and I guess with the oems from way back when and they had a allen wrench hole for the bottom nut instead of the hex head. Pain in the ass
Another awesome video.
Love this video. Watch all the time.
Great tips.. Hamerred that top stud off. Like new. Front noise gone.
Can’t thank you enough good sir.
Great video 👍🏻Just completed this job today
This is a great video... and I think this is one that I'll take to the pros.
You are that guy I would trust to touch my F-150. Blood, sweat, and Gears!
Thanks - on my 3rd set of links on '03 Expy..
You definitely helped me out much love king 👑
Use the jack on the top you releave alittle pressure and it slides right out
You were 100% right only buy Ford I bought duralast and upon installing them the boot split. Garbage
For F150 and Expeditions with welded steel lower controls arms, plan on buying new lower control arms and links since they are almost impossible to remove. The 18mm nut is buried up in the control arm...
You are a great complement to other videos on this subject. I like your presentation and the way you clean off your parts before you reuse them. Your comments on Ford original parts being better than aftermarket was very useful. Which Lock tight are you using?
since I can't find a single video on replacing the front axle support bushings like the one found on the axle tube, I've decided I'm making a video myself tomorrow
I had the clunk noise on my 2004 so I replaced the lower ball joints because I replaced everything else 30,000 miles ago. clunked noise still there on drivers side, time to replace the moog stab links with only 30,000 mile.
When your discussing the F-150 and the Expedition, you might include the Lincoln Navigator, which is the same vehicle under the skin. Navigator owners would be able to find your videos in a search.
Yup I would think most know a town car is a vic and a nav is an exedition and a aviator is an explorer etc.
@@FordTechMakuloco I'm sure any Lincoln owner is well aware of their Ford equivalent. Just means they have to search for Ford solutions to problems or upgrades, because nothing will come up under their Lincoln brand. You certainly not alone by not mentioning Lincoln. lol
How do you know you didn't over torque both nuts with the air gun? You're torque wrench clicked immediately. I didn't see it move at all before the click...
I used your reversal technique to replace the links on my daugter's 2006 Five Hundred and it was so decayed it actually broke. I had to cut the bolt off from the other side. Rust sucks!
I learned a lot by u man 😃 thanks alot 👌🏻 🙏 💯
The holes in my truck's sway bar ends are facing down not sideways like that one is. I probably going to have to remove the lower balll joints and strut nut to mount new ones!
Thanks, your videos the best.
Got keep both nuts clean.
Top one on my truck was stuck....used heat around threads and popped out with hammer....careful not to burn brake line and abs wire
I have a 2005 Expy Eddie Bauer. For some reason my stabilizer bar link nut is about 1" inside a well on the a-frame. The nut just spins as you mentioned. However the offset wrenches I have don't reach. Is that a special wrench for this application or did you 'modify' that one. Thanks again. You rock!
Great videos thanks
I remove mine with a torch .. after burn all the rust the bolt come out super easy ..basically removed with my fingers
My 06 blows threw links Does a bad link or links cause pulling to one side of other
10:42 I agree... Its always good to clean both your nuts
Only suggestion would be if you drove the vehicle before and after so we can hear the "thud" and then the quiet.
Good job 👍
Hi Brian, thanks for putting out some of those helpful videos that you provided they really help me a lot. But I got a little issue with my 2007 Ford Expedition Eddie standard size 2wd my abs light came on and it’s my left abs speed sensor with code C1155. Now the reason for that I wanted to replace the old one and the wire some how got melted but that one was working before I had replaced it with a new ford abs sensor that I got from the ford dealership. After installing the new abs sensor my abs light comes on and I tried to reset it a few times and the abs light just flickers like once or twice. I really hope it’s not a defective and wire. I would really appreciate it thanks.
Excellent video!!!
so that is the clank I hear from the driver side of my 06 expedition when I pull out of my driveway? I checked ball joints, shocks, and boots, and couldn't find anything out of the ordinary thanks
I have a 2004 Expedition 2WD and it has a different LCA than in this video. I do not have access to get anything other than a deep socket on the sway bar end link nut. There is no way to have a wrench of any type on both the nut and the end link at the same time. Do you have any suggestions?
I used vice grips for the top portion to keep it from spinning, did the trick for me.
How do you like your cordless impact? I'm thinking about getting the Dewalt model comparable to your Milwaukee. The torque specs for both are very close.
Great vid as always! Thanks!
Thanks you for that video!!
Cool, but some times they have a Grease fitting. And you’re not able to just pop it out you have to take out the CV axle
Nope they come right out.
2004 F150 XL RWD Ford Links - No Longer Available
I just happen to notice that truck has 2wd front strut assembly. im surprised that it isnt rubbing the axle shaft.
Thank You Very Much...
I have an 8 gallon 125 psi electric compressor. Will this be enough to do my entire front suspension on a 2wd 2004 "new body" ? Using a impact?
very true I had to replace mine every 6 months moog not worth it ford parts instead
Thanks so much for the video!
I know my 2006 F-150 the sway end went horizontally where it attaches to the end link versus vertically like this truck, made for a huge pain to replace had to jack up the sway bar itself to squeeze enough room, not the safest thing either
+Bryan Kephart Yeah late build 2005 models forward went to the design you have.
The sway bar end links you recommend are “no longer available”
I just spent all day waiting on parts and replacing a lower ball joint and a strut...only to eventually find the stab link on the opposite side is jumping up and down and causing the banging noises. Im angry and tired. But now i can fix it tomorrow and know what to do.
Do you think replacing these would stiffening the steering? I have the air suspension and the steering feels a little loose when going over bigger bumps.
Damn , that impact is powerful
+STEEVE DAVID Nicolas ......Milwaukee is 600ftlbs maybe more- I think but BIG money.. I have a Ridgid x4, it has 300 ftlb $139 plus $70 for a 4amp lith/ion battery although you can use a 2amp that comes in the kits from home depot. Bought a case kit of harden sockets from harbor freight-$30. Best thing even to work on the car...NO air pump to listen to!
+Dirtyharry70585 I used to work at home depot, that impact is around 400,if I'm mistaken
10:02
Just did both links on my 2005 lariat. Both were doing the same thing. Completely shot after only a year! BTW, don't ever buy cheap links for these vehicles! The front end is too heavy duty for cheap parts. I replaced Dorman links with Motorcraft ones. Will see how long those last!
Have the Motorcraft ones held up so far?
@@dmccarthy413 - yup!
Can’t get that bottom bolt out at all. Tried an 18: fail. Tried the wrench and 8mm method with an extra set of hands… fail. Talk about living in the rust belt. Think I’m just gonna cut the damn thing off. Gotta replace it anyway.
Can you please help me? My 2013 Ford F-150 xlt 4x4 5.0 has a severe wobble at 62-70 mph. The hole body feels like it’s shaking and steering wheel shakes real bad. I’ve asked several so called mechanics with no help. It has 219k miles and I just put new rims and tires with rough country stuts and shocks and didn’t help at all. Any idea? God bless
Have you ever done Ford Expedition body bushings/mounts
no
Why don't you do a video on catch cans for f150 ego boost and what's the best catch can to buy
+Robin Duncan I am currently working on this. You want to get the monster can for sure-amzn.to/1S6oobf
2006 has different straight links. Am I missing something?
Generally it is a 2wd vs 4wd issue early on whereas later they were all straight up and down.
@@FordTechMakuloco ok sweet!
You saying Moog go out sooner than motorcraft? I need to get some but do want quality ones. isn't moog like "the best" per say?
Amazon is out of the MEF195. but i found some MEF335 . are those better than the moog k80279?