Thanks for this. My maintenance guy swears he fixed my unit. After seeing this video I could pin point exactly what he did wrong. I undid all he did and re-did the fix myself. I was so happy to hear my unit working again. When he "fixed" it, the heat coils didn't heat up so the coils kept freezing over. After my fix ( i replaced the refrigerator timer and the thermostat) my unit shut down after 6 hours and started back up! Yay. It's working again. Thank You!
Thanks for the great video. My question is, does the freezer need to be fully defrosted/room temperature in order to do this repair, or can this repair be done by simply unplugging the fridge, and working in the freezer while it's still cold? My freezer is almost empty so working in it won't be a problem, but it will be a big hassle if I have to clean out my fridge so that I can defrost the freezer. Thanks!
Hi there, Sorry to hear about this issue with you refrigerator. It could be your temperature sensor (thermistor), which senses the temperature in the cabinet. You can check this with a multi-meter. If there's no continuity, it will need to be replaced. If you find there's no continuity, the thermistor needed for your model refrigerator is # WR55X10025. Hope that helps!
Thanks for posting this helpful video! I think it's important to add that when you change out the defrost thermostat, it can take a long time for the evaporator fan to restart.
hello! i have this model FRT18S6AW6 FRIGIDAIRE Top-Mount Refrigerator and the freezer works fine, but the refrigerator is not working properly I already replaced the thermostat following this video, but still not cooling enough on the bottom. Please help!
You may have an issue with the evaporator fan, the air diffuser or a defrost problem. Verify that the evaporator fan is running at the same time as the compressor and condenser fan. If little to no air is entering the fresh food section, check for an obstruction in the air diffuser at the back of the control housing. This can also be caused by a frost or ice buildup on the evaporator due to a defrost problem.
I'm trying to remove the evap cover in the freezer to replace the thermo, defrost heater, & the evap fan motor on my GE frig # GTL18JCDRBS. There is this part that looks like a white outlet socket, that has 2 little openings that look like I could plug something in them. I have a pic, but not able to upload. I'm kind of lost ??? I ordered these parts for Parts Select,
+Debbie Jennings That sounds like the cover for the optional ice maker wiring harness connector. It is normally attached to the evaporator cover by plastic clips and usually would not need to be removed .
Hello i have a problem with my refrigerator.my fride works for a couple days but then the bottom gets warm but the freezer stays working and theres ice build up on the back wall.we unplug for the night and plug back next day and it works again for 1-3days again.please let me know
Steve, Can you advise. Changed Thermostat, the unit ran for a few hours, then tripped the circuit breaker. Plugged back and blew it again. Any suggestions appreciated.
I have a Maytag fridge#MTB2191ARW. I replaced the defrost timer that showed faulty. Heater showed continuity. Still icing up. I have a three wire defrost thermostat that has been discontinued. Can not find it anywhere. A white and green wire from the stat goes to a two prong plug to the wall and the red to the heater. I get continuity between the white and red wire when both hot and cold. There is no continuity to the green. I was told one of the wires is for fan delay. Can I use a two wire plug and eliminate the fan delay? If so does anyone know which wire green or white is for the fan. I'm thinking the white and red are for the heater but it may be the green is for the heater and shorted with no continuity? I believe I can use a two wire and it will work good enough without a fan delay? Little worried about wiring it wrong and messing up. any advice?
The information that I have found indicates a white and an orange wire from the thermostat go to a two wire harness connector. These are the connections to the internal bi-metal. When at freezing temperature there should be around zero ohms of resistance when measure with a multi-meter. When above freezing, the resistance could be several thousand ohms but not open circuit, and therefore showing continuity. The third wire, which shows as brown in our data, is used for testing purposes only.
thanks Steve..great video...easy to follow and clear picture. I have a Frigidaire like that one, slightly larger, and water leaks into the fresh food compartment.Looked at quite a few videos and see no drain tube hole below coils to check for blockage,and the back of fridge is completely sealed.I see a tube encased in the assembly attached to ceiling of fresh food compartment. It houses the light bulb. Is that it? Have to mop up water every few days.Any suggestions please?.
I'm replacing a GE defrost thermostat on model TFXC27FHE that is 27 years old. The original part is replaced by DTS55.There is no clip on the new one and the original has an attached clip. Do I need another part- a clip? Thanks
Steve. My kenmore 106.7210210has ice forming to the right of the evaporator. The evaporator is frost free. Just ice around the Bimetl-def. I remove ice with hair drier but it always returns. Everything else works fine. This ice forming smells after a few weeks
I have a ge model GSS25SGMB BS. I just changed the defrost heather. im still having the same problem. the freezer is getting warm and the fridge part also
my FRIGIDAIR MODEL # IS LFTR1814LW1 my FREEZER over freezes which causes my refrigerator to stop cooling .which one of these parts need to be replaced? 1. Defrost timer 2. Therostat Control 3. thermostat
Sandra Covert Any of the defrost circuit components can cause this symptom. The defrost timer can be rotated manually to the defrost cycle. If the defrost heater comes on, then the defrost thermostat and heater are good and the timer most likely is not advancing and would need to be replaced. If the heater does not come on, first verify that the timer is supplying power to theheater circuit. If there is no voltage then again, the timer is likely defective. If the voltage is present then you would need to check the thermostat and heater for continuity. You can easily check the defrost heater for continuity to verify if it is the problem. The defrost termination thermostat is more difficult to test as it needs to be below a specific temperature to test for continuity.
+rightcheek86 You can use electrical tape however, properly applied heat shrink tubing provides a better moisture proof barrier for the electrical connection.
Carlos Vasquez It sounds as though you have a faulty defrost timer. Here is a link to the part: www.partselect.com/PS423801-Frigidaire-215846602-Defrost-Timer-60Hz-120V.htm?SourceCode=7&SearchTerm=25374812400&ModelNum=25374812400
Hi Said, you may have a problem with the defrost thermostat, defrost heater, or the defrost timer. Check our repair pages for more information. www.partselect.ca/Refrigerator+Frost-in-freezer+repair.htm Hope this helps!
You will need a suitable wire stripper to prepare the wire ends for a proper connection. The twist style wire nuts are suitable to use, just make sure that you protect the connection from moisture with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
Ok so if i do it by self which is had for me never done like this before but after watching your video i should take a chance, after twist the wire connection , put that twisted cap and put electical tape on that will do i guess,now where to get that part? how to know the right part? thank you and sorry for trouble.
The proper method for attaching wire nuts is to strip about 10 mm of the insulation from the wires first and being careful to not cut into the copper strands. Next, you should gently twist the copper strands together on each single wire as this will make them more rigid. Finally, hold the two stripped and twisted wire ends side by side and slip the wire connector over the bare copper ends. Twist the connector clockwise while holding the wires steady, until the wires begin to wrap around each other a couple of turns. Using electrical tape, wrap the wires in a spiral fashion, starting from about 2-3 cm from the connector. Continue the wrap onto the connector, reverse the spiral direction and continue back down the wire to the starting point.
Hi . I have a ge side by side, and it's been for frosting up me . I've changed the thermostat defrost and the heating element, and it still freezes up . Any idea , do I need to replace the motherboard ?thank you.
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for this. My maintenance guy swears he fixed my unit. After seeing this video I could pin point exactly what he did wrong. I undid all he did and re-did the fix myself. I was so happy to hear my unit working again. When he "fixed" it, the heat coils didn't heat up so the coils kept freezing over. After my fix ( i replaced the refrigerator timer and the thermostat) my unit shut down after 6 hours and started back up! Yay. It's working again. Thank You!
you can probably use a generous amount of electrical tape to wrap the splices if you don't want to mess with heat guns and shrink wraps
Thanks for the great video. My question is, does the freezer need to be fully defrosted/room temperature in order to do this repair, or can this repair be done by simply unplugging the fridge, and working in the freezer while it's still cold? My freezer is almost empty so working in it won't be a problem, but it will be a big hassle if I have to clean out my fridge so that I can defrost the freezer. Thanks!
Hi there,
Sorry to hear about this issue with you refrigerator. It could be your temperature sensor (thermistor), which senses the temperature in the cabinet. You can check this with a multi-meter. If there's no continuity, it will need to be replaced. If you find there's no continuity, the thermistor needed for your model refrigerator is # WR55X10025. Hope that helps!
Thanks for posting this helpful video! I think it's important to add that when you change out the defrost thermostat, it can take a long time for the evaporator fan to restart.
Thanks for this! Took me about 30 minutes. Could use smaller heat shrink wrap though. Otherwise, great!
hello! i have this model FRT18S6AW6 FRIGIDAIRE Top-Mount Refrigerator and the freezer works fine, but the refrigerator is not working properly I already replaced the thermostat following this video, but still not cooling enough on the bottom. Please help!
You may have an issue with the evaporator fan, the air diffuser or a defrost problem. Verify that the evaporator fan is running at the same time as the compressor and condenser fan. If little to no air is entering the fresh food section, check for an obstruction in the air diffuser at the back of the control housing. This can also be caused by a frost or ice buildup on the evaporator due to a defrost problem.
I'm trying to remove the evap cover in the freezer to replace the thermo, defrost heater, & the evap fan motor on my GE frig # GTL18JCDRBS. There is this part that looks like a white outlet socket, that has 2 little openings that look like I could plug something in them. I have a pic, but not able to upload. I'm kind of lost ??? I ordered these parts for Parts Select,
+Debbie Jennings That sounds like the cover for the optional ice maker wiring harness connector. It is normally attached to the evaporator cover by plastic clips and usually would not need to be removed .
+PartSelect Thank you.
Thanks much. Parts Select is awesome in service and these videos are so helpful for do-it-yourself home fixes !
Hello i have a problem with my refrigerator.my fride works for a couple days but then the bottom gets warm but the freezer stays working and theres ice build up on the back wall.we unplug for the night and plug back next day and it works again for 1-3days again.please let me know
Carlos Vasquez Could you provide me with the model number so I can look into this for you?
Fabulous! Great video...lots of useful information!
If you have a question or are having trouble with a repair, I'd love to be of assistance!
have u ever adjusted the cut in cut out on a refrigerator
Steve, Can you advise. Changed Thermostat, the unit ran for a few hours, then tripped the circuit breaker. Plugged back and blew it again. Any suggestions appreciated.
I have a Maytag fridge#MTB2191ARW. I replaced the defrost timer that showed faulty. Heater showed continuity. Still icing up. I have a three wire defrost thermostat that has been discontinued. Can not find it anywhere. A white and green wire from the stat goes to a two prong plug to the wall and the red to the heater. I get continuity between the white and red wire when both hot and cold. There is no continuity to the green. I was told one of the wires is for fan delay. Can I use a two wire plug and eliminate the fan delay? If so does anyone know which wire green or white is for the fan. I'm thinking the white and red are for the heater but it may be the green is for the heater and shorted with no continuity? I believe I can use a two wire and it will work good enough without a fan delay? Little worried about wiring it wrong and messing up. any advice?
The information that I have found indicates a white and an orange wire from the thermostat go to a two wire harness connector. These are the connections to the internal bi-metal. When at freezing temperature there should be around zero ohms of resistance when measure with a multi-meter. When above freezing, the resistance could be several thousand ohms but not open circuit, and therefore showing continuity. The third wire, which shows as brown in our data, is used for testing purposes only.
thanks Steve..great video...easy to follow and clear picture. I have a Frigidaire like that one, slightly larger, and water leaks into the fresh food compartment.Looked at quite a few videos and see no drain tube hole below coils to check for blockage,and the back of fridge is completely sealed.I see a tube encased in the assembly attached to ceiling of fresh food compartment. It houses the light bulb. Is that it? Have to mop up water every few days.Any suggestions please?.
I'm replacing a GE defrost thermostat on model TFXC27FHE that is 27 years old. The original part is replaced by DTS55.There is no clip on the new one and the original has an attached clip. Do I need another part- a clip? Thanks
Steve. My kenmore 106.7210210has ice forming to the right of the evaporator. The evaporator is frost free. Just ice around the Bimetl-def. I remove ice with hair drier but it always returns. Everything else works fine. This ice forming smells after a few weeks
Mine is freezing up still after replacing the timer switch. The rod won't heat up in forced defrost mode. Idk what to replace next
It’s probably the heating element
How to replace the refrigerator thermostat
I have a ge model GSS25SGMB BS. I just changed the defrost heather. im still having the same problem. the freezer is getting warm and the fridge part also
can you use a universal defrost thermostat it has light pink and dark pink wires if so which one goe to the blues
gerodia geendale What model number do you have?
Very detailed and good video. Thank you.
I think it bit hard for me, i don't have that heat gun.
that heat shrink tubes diameter is too large and is so short
my FRIGIDAIR MODEL # IS LFTR1814LW1 my FREEZER over freezes which causes my refrigerator to stop cooling .which one of these parts need to be replaced?
1. Defrost timer 2. Therostat Control 3. thermostat
Sandra Covert Any of the defrost circuit components can cause this symptom. The defrost timer can be rotated manually to the defrost cycle. If the defrost heater comes on, then the defrost thermostat and heater are good and the timer most likely is not advancing and would need to be replaced. If the heater does not come on, first verify that the timer is supplying power to theheater circuit. If there is no voltage then again, the timer is likely defective. If the voltage is present then you would need to check the thermostat and heater for continuity. You can easily check the defrost heater for continuity to verify if it is the problem. The defrost termination thermostat is more difficult to test as it needs to be below a specific temperature to test for continuity.
Thank you the part i had to order worked my problem out.Tthank's once again for the video
@@partselecthi! How do you test if the timer is supplying power to the heater circuit?? Thanks!
Well done thanks. GBYAY
Glad we could help! Thanks for the kind words!
Thanks for the helpful video 😊
Could you just use electrical tape rather than the heat shrink wrap?
+rightcheek86 You can use electrical tape however, properly applied heat shrink tubing provides a better moisture proof barrier for the electrical connection.
What can I use if I don't have a heating gun or hair blower?
Thanks again.
A lighter.
sorry it was pink and orange
Will this also be the same procedure for a Whirlpool top freezer that is 13 years old?
Awesome video. Thanks so much.
What is your model number? I can research this for you.
Model# ET18NKXFW01 Series# E64216897 Manufacture date 10/97
Thank you so much for your reply and help.
Thank you so much 😊
Yes model no. Is "253.74812400
Carlos Vasquez It sounds as though you have a faulty defrost timer. Here is a link to the part: www.partselect.com/PS423801-Frigidaire-215846602-Defrost-Timer-60Hz-120V.htm?SourceCode=7&SearchTerm=25374812400&ModelNum=25374812400
j'ai un réfrigérateur admiral le congélateur fait de la glace, normalement c'est un defrost
Hi Said, you may have a problem with the defrost thermostat, defrost heater, or the defrost timer. Check our repair pages for more information. www.partselect.ca/Refrigerator+Frost-in-freezer+repair.htm Hope this helps!
Its a kenmore
i need help please
thank you partselect for your vids.
dude English
I don't have a wire cutter , and can I use those connector two wire and twist and put that cap?
You will need a suitable wire stripper to prepare the wire ends for a proper connection. The twist style wire nuts are suitable to use, just make sure that you protect the connection from moisture with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
Ok so if i do it by self which is had for me never done like this before but after watching your video i should take a chance, after twist the wire connection , put that twisted cap and put electical tape on that will do i guess,now where to get that part? how to know the right part? thank you and sorry for trouble.
The proper method for attaching wire nuts is to strip about 10 mm of the insulation from the wires first and being careful to not cut into the copper strands. Next, you should gently twist the copper strands together on each single wire as this will make them more rigid. Finally, hold the two stripped and twisted wire ends side by side and slip the wire connector over
the bare copper ends. Twist the connector clockwise while holding the wires steady, until the wires begin to wrap around each other a couple of turns. Using electrical tape, wrap the wires in a spiral fashion, starting from about 2-3 cm from the connector. Continue the wrap onto the connector, reverse the spiral direction and continue back down the wire to the starting point.
Ok thank you Iwill try. thank you.
Hi . I have a ge side by side, and it's been for frosting up me . I've changed the thermostat defrost and the heating element, and it still freezes up . Any idea , do I need to replace the motherboard ?thank you.