Great information. I deal with a lot of countersunk Cherry's at work. What we do is center punch the pin in then drill the lock ring. At that point, either punch the pin all the way out or drill it.
For the Hi-lok fasteners only and just only STD , 1st oversize and 2nd Oversize and the mating of them is : std diameter is red collar for shear head and steel collar for tension head 1st symmetrical STD for the 2nd must use blue collar due to the diameter if collar can fit exact to the 2ns hi-lok shank . Best regards
I have found that using E-drill is a perfect way to remove hard metal fasteners. HiLoks, eddie bolts, Jobolts, Cherrys. E-drill knocks them out in only a couple seconds - no FOD, no damage!
I've worked sheetmetal more than twenty years this guy has some misinformation in this video. First, the grip gauge reads in 1/16ths of an inch not 1/32nds. Next is a blue collar is used on a second over hilok not a nominal or first over hilok. Then, the fastener he called a camlok is what the industry calls a riv-nut. A riv nut is hollow pin that has machine threads at the end to allow it to be used as like a blind nutplate. Cam locks are a two part fastener that use a pin and a receptacle. The pin is spring-loaded with a small horizontal t pin that goes through it at the end of the pin which is what actually latches it to the receptacle.
The Pittsburgh Institute of Aeronautics has a 98% placement rate of graduates. I have to wonder what the Salt Lake City Community College placement rate is. If this guy is their fastener and structures expert, they must be turning out a lot of interior mechanics that only change carpets. Besides being wrong on collar sizes, he never even mentioned steel collars for tension heads. There was just too much misinformation to be credible. (When I go to work tonight, I'll be installing 5/8" Taperloks in the wing of an A321).
Don't forget eddie bolts. I found that removing a Cherrymax is easier if you drill the central stem, then use a punch to pry out the lock ring. Then drill the head off and and punch out like a regular rivet. But you better make sure you can retrieve the tail from the other side or you will have entrapped FOD inside the structure. I have had to use a borescope and some tuping to encapsulate such FOD with seal. Very ugly business. You need a slider for your grip guage. You should also have a set of leaf guages to check thread protrusion.
Not impressed. Most of theses blind rivets require accurately reamed holes and drive fits. Using a standard twist drill is not recommended. Rivnuts are not camlocs.
Thanks for posting! Adding the chapters was nice, never heard of a Jo-bolt till I bought a plane. Subscribed.
Awesome and very informative video. Thank you so much!
Great information. I deal with a lot of countersunk Cherry's at work. What we do is center punch the pin in then drill the lock ring. At that point, either punch the pin all the way out or drill it.
This man’s honey cured my depression!
For the Hi-lok fasteners only and just only STD , 1st oversize and 2nd Oversize and the mating of them is : std diameter is red collar for shear head and steel collar for tension head 1st symmetrical STD for the 2nd must use blue collar due to the diameter if collar can fit exact to the 2ns hi-lok shank .
Best regards
I have found that using E-drill is a perfect way to remove hard metal fasteners. HiLoks, eddie bolts, Jobolts, Cherrys. E-drill knocks them out in only a couple seconds - no FOD, no damage!
a few closeup shots would help
I've worked sheetmetal more than twenty years this guy has some misinformation in this video. First, the grip gauge reads in 1/16ths of an inch not 1/32nds. Next is a blue collar is used on a second over hilok not a nominal or first over hilok. Then, the fastener he called a camlok is what the industry calls a riv-nut. A riv nut is hollow pin that has machine threads at the end to allow it to be used as like a blind nutplate. Cam locks are a two part fastener that use a pin and a receptacle. The pin is spring-loaded with a small horizontal t pin that goes through it at the end of the pin which is what actually latches it to the receptacle.
The Pittsburgh Institute of Aeronautics has a 98% placement rate of graduates. I have to wonder what the Salt Lake City Community College placement rate is. If this guy is their fastener and structures expert, they must be turning out a lot of interior mechanics that only change carpets. Besides being wrong on collar sizes, he never even mentioned steel collars for tension heads. There was just too much misinformation to be credible. (When I go to work tonight, I'll be installing 5/8" Taperloks in the wing of an A321).
Adhesive bonded nut plates? What if you had a tool to install those into an area where the backside is not accessible?
Don't forget eddie bolts. I found that removing a Cherrymax is easier if you drill the central stem, then use a punch to pry out the lock ring. Then drill the head off and and punch out like a regular rivet. But you better make sure you can retrieve the tail from the other side or you will have entrapped FOD inside the structure. I have had to use a borescope and some tuping to encapsulate such FOD with seal. Very ugly business. You need a slider for your grip guage. You should also have a set of leaf guages to check thread protrusion.
My uncles plane suffered a leak in a new fuel bladder from just that vary thing.
"calling out" for an aluminum Hi-Lok is like calling for a botched colonoscopy. If you know it is bad- why attempt it
Is it just me? Or the camera position was moving slowly. His background seems to be moving and it makes me feel dizzy rn hahahha
Looks like a green screen image.
yes the camera moves
The moving camera is very distracting.
Thanks
Not impressed. Most of theses blind rivets require accurately reamed holes and drive fits. Using a standard twist drill is not recommended. Rivnuts are not camlocs.
I can't see anything bad choice
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Odd guy 🤣
Poor video.... unorganized, terrible visuals. If your going to make a video this is how not to do it.
Worthless.
Well so are you