I actually was riding my bike in Austria a few weeks ago up a gravel climb to around 1900 meters above sea level and met a guy who had such a mountainbike. It was the brand of a former mtb world champ who now builds these fancy ass bikes. With pedals and bottle cage it weighed just 6.8 kg, absolute madness
@@nicholasvillanueva7469 i dont remember😂 but it looked absolutely sick, the mfer outclimbed me with that shit, i would have needed 40 watts more for the weight difference😂😂
Holy Sh#t that is a light frame! The HMX Scott Scale is around 850g with HMF carbon version around 1100g. Not sure I would go near any drops on that thing.
Hope 180mm comes in at 159g each not 160g for the pair, the wheelset also comes in 350g heavier than you have stated, this is a 7kg plus bike, still light but you can see that he never actually lifts the front wheel of the bike off the floor to give the true weight.
I don't think it's great for the stem bolts to tighten one first then the other, should they not be evenly tightened? Same goes with the handlebar clamp and rotor bolts with the power drill! Then the cassette, not even making sure the lockring was straight before cranking it down. Very hard to watch I must say from a bike mechanic point of view.
this video is for entertainment purposes, who knows what was cut when, we don't even know if that bike was to be used in that configuration... but yeah, there are a few bolt tightening procedures to be followed in assembling mechanical stuffs.
Here I am with this dilemma - should I pay a metric fuckton of money for a bike that's 10 kg lighter than mine... or keep riding my heavy bike until I take more than 10kg of weight off myself for free achieving pretty much the same result. Decisions, decisions....
@@mikek9297 Doesn't work that way. 10kg lighter bike is like night and day difference. Where as 10kg on yourself is only just noticeable. It's significantly more difficult to try and bunny hop a 25kg ebike than it with a 16kg mountainibike. But 80 to 90kg bodyweight not a lot of difference.
@@rawmancemtb I'm working with 115kg of my own weight and a bike that's somewhere between 15-16kg without extra equipment... a hardtail, entry-level XC back from 2009. Can't bunny hop it, can't do a proper wheelie. I'm thinking I better start with me and see if I can get somewhere before I start pumping coin into the bike.
@@mikek9297 same man,bought myself an mtb alloy frame (quite heavy) and with bodyweight same like yours. usually ride ride the bike like a roadbike on the road lol
These are almost road tires though if you base on continental's site claimed scores based on terrains. I reckon it's closer to 7kg if you put on proper XC tires. But this is still very impressive.
@@tomaszosipiak3589 2.2 is old school by today's standard, but the real crime here is the lack of tread on those tires. That thing will slip like crazy on anything other that pure, clean sandstone or tarmac. Get on some loose dirt, and this bike becomes really scary to ride. Not to mention the lack of puncture protection.
I have a 7kg road bike, and I get scared I'm gonna break something every time I cross railroad tracks. Not sure I'd be willing to ride this in the woods.
Bicicleta de carretera año 94 fibra carbono y titanio , campagnolo record más de 160km y aún no se ha roto!! Pero me fiaría de las de hoy ??????? No lo sé!!
A lot of this bike is closer to a road build than a machine for the trails, but those tires are ridiculous. There has to be a point where you stop worrying about weight and build something fit for purpose. I don’t see this as a mountain bike, just related, as it has a suspension fork.
It is just shimano XTR with some Hope rotors if I were to guess. And is it really that hard to find carbon wheels? Or seatposts? Or handlebars? These questions are pretty funny.
Guys, he's not using an impact driver. He's using a clutched drill which is set to a very low number, so it's barely putting through any torque once the bolts are in. He also has what looks like a star bit on there so cam-outs are extremely low chance and he isn't going to strip any threads with the clutch set so low. He probably torqued it manually and then went back and fourth with the drill adjusting the clutch until it put fourth a good amount to get the bolt in there but not fully tightened. I do the same thing with my RC car - I know that a 5 on my Makita cordless will get my wheel nuts as snug as I would do with a wrench.
That's what I do. Great for speed. Set the drill clutch to 2 so it doesn't over tighten. Use the drill to send all the bolts in quickly then torque them up, simples...
Cassette bolt got striped by not running a few treads by hand first. Grease is always good, specially for the next guy to service it. But the cassette bolt part is mind boggling on such a project.
I don't often say this and don't want to be condescending, but with components like these please use your torque wrench carefully! You're not holding it right (your forearm should be perpendicular to the wrench to get an accurate torque reading) and you're fully torqueing the first bolt before you even tighten the others! Instead, you should gradually tighten each bolt (say 2Nm, then 3Nm, then the final torque), otherwise you may put a pressure point on the bars (which can fracture the carbon) and leave it undertightened once the others are done (if you try tightening it again the first bolt won't click the wrench, when the 4th will). Don't get me wrong this is a beautiful bike build, I'm just saying this before you learn the hard way as I have before! Edit: not to mention the cordless drill!!! Have fun stripping the hub threads and bolt heads
And "double checking" the torque!! Just one click please. I was picking holed in his technique throughout the vid. Too much grease in some places and no grease in others!
@@franciss2529 but not the double click method. By all means come back to it for a check but click then click again has been proven to way over torque bolts. I have colleagues who have done studies.
Not to be that guy but: 0:42 - Aluminum seatpost? Could have saved weight. 1:38 - 180mm rotor is just not necessary for an ultralight XC race bike, save the weight of the rotor and the adapter. 1:47 - Bolt is NOT long enough, you can see it only engages 3-4 threads. 2:24 - SO much grease. Not a problem just kinda gross. 3:53 - I know some stems require a spacer above, but 10mm? No thank you. 6:32 - The first of a few things that really should have been torque wrenched. 6:42 - For the sake of your shifter, I hope you put the cap back on the cable access hole. 7:00 - I know this is partially the fault of the frame, but routing the shift cable on the drive side will almost always cause the cable to wear down the frame in front of the cable entry port. Could have used frame protection tape or rubber protector on the cable. 7:17 - Again, of all the things NOT to use a torque wrench on. 7:38 - Grease ALL OVER the spindle, when it's only really needed on the bearing races. 8:31 - I hope you properly set the preload of the crankset off camera... 9:00 - He's not actually gonna put that cable in there without a ferrule is he? 9:04 - Oh god he did. 9:32 - Might just be me, but I'll only cut the cable once I have the shifting indexed. Makes it much easier to move it around and not have to rely on the barrel adjuster. 11:14 - 6mm spacer under the disc brake rotor tells me that you're using a wheelset with a non-boost 142mm hub, with different endcaps to fit 148mm. I hope you've dished the wheel correctly to account for that, but also why not just use a proper boost wheelset? 12:05 - Of all the things not to grease, the thru axle is the most annoying. 12:16 - This is one of the more dangerous things not to use a torque wrench on. 13:14 - I'm perfectly fine driving in rotor bolts with power tools, but to set the clutch THAT low and not torque check them like you did on the rear ones? Ouch. 13:30 - Again, 'tight enough' is not a torque spec on a race bike's thru axle. 14:16 - I know this is more of a glamour video instead of an educational one, but to show all these steps and not show properly setting the derailleur limits, that's a bit weird. Also, turn the clutch on. 14:48 - Please put bar end plugs? Don't want to get core sampled. 15:34 - Purely cosmetic, but holy crap all that effort on the build just to put the sticker on crooked. 16:02 - Weighs ridiculously expensive bike on the cheapest, lowest precision luggage scale I've ever seen. 16:15 - Forgot the compression nut cover on the brake lever, I think it's sitting down where the brake hose enters the frame.
I like how you attach one disc rotor carefully to torque and the other one just winging it with the clutched screwdriver :) Also, I didn't see you put in any hydraulic fluid, so either that wasn't filmed because it's boring or you didn't do it yet in which case add another 200g to that weight total.
If they are factory bled and you are careful you don't need to bleed after removing/cutting/refitting the hose. You may just need to do a small top up if anything.
I had the passion of building a light MTB about 3 years ago and I achieved an 8kg bike, pedals included. Weighting a bike without pedals is bullshit, just like the manufacturer's declared weights of many bike parts. This clip would be really useful if it would list each part and it's weight and price
Lol! It's like in the motorcycle manufacturer data sheets, so called "dry weight" to impress the buyers that they build an adventure bike close to 200kg margin, 'cos we want them to be light as possible. :D
read my comment above. He weighed it without getting the front wheel completely offthe ground. The wheel rolled but didnt lift up. slow mo the frames and stop them several times and you'll se what Im talking about.
I’ve one Aora and is an awesome bike, the best bike I’ve ever ride. Made and handcrafted in Spain, only 50 bikes per year, per model, the best components and the best engineer
Go watch dangerholm. if you don't really know him than don't write any comments. He even made a downhillbike🤦 And cross country both hardtail and fullsuspension. His gravel bike is just his newest project
@@noaberton3141 dangerholm makes one-off bikes, not production like unno even if its just 50 units. And take in mind the parts used in this build and in dangerholm build also affect the weight
Essentially a gravel bike. Especially with those tires. Now that Rockshox introduced front forks specifically designed for gravel bikes I feel like this bike and modern gravel bikes are becoming one. The big difference of course being the drop bars. This bike is made for those light XC trails.
Yea, tires aren't the place to be saving weight. Saving 300g by using the lightest tires imaginable might gain you 30 seconds over a 2 hour race from a power/weight perspective, but you'll be slipping on technical climbs, and going slow on downhills. This is why I run light trail tires on my XC bike. Also, not having pedals on the bike when weighing it is cheating.
It can be lighter. Replace all bolts for titanium and aluminium. Replace cables from 1.2mm to 1mm. Cut cables, remove paint and coat, drill some parts of groupset, maybe will be better to use sram groupset. You can use their x-dome technology cassette. Xd hubnut lighter. So I think its possible to remove 500 grams from bike. Its very presumptuously call this bike lightest.
It also needs plastic (or metal) caps on the ends of the housing to prevent corrosion and damage from the cable pulling unevenly. But that's the least of this build's problems.
Could've saved at least 20 grams more with going easier on the grease, cutting down the fork, removing the topcap after tightening stem bolts, stripping the paint off the lowers and a couple of other things
Because that's not the purpose of the build. It's built to be light, not tough. It's most likely just done for the video but will have its parts actually swapped out for actual use. Or maybe it was never intended to be used. Who knows. Those are all irrelevant. It's a video about a bike being built light. Title didn't lie. But I'm also certain it'll do fine, I've seen bikes in worse conditions to take on anything...yet it's there. Doing things.
@@paddor Thats what you get buying cheap chinese knock off carbon parts, these TUNE parts are def up for the task - these will not break, but then they are quite expensive as well.
Now that is one pretty bike. LOL, 20 years ago I would have given a body part to own that beautiful machine. And now at 40 suspension and comfort are a little more important.. But still that is a work of art. Great video man. 👍👍👍
@@Haytabike I am still an avid biker. I just an probably over the weight limit on that one. I am just around 300 lbs (145 kg approx) these days. So I would Love to take that beauty for a gentle and fast ride, but out of respect keeping those wheels on the ground.. Don’t need to be breaking what ever that is worth. I got an Older Norco Enduro type bike that around LOL.. yup 20 Kilos, so over twice your bike. Haha, but at least I can’t break it easily. You have a great weekend. Everyone else looking forward to summer, I know I am.
This double torque wrench clicking drives me insane 😀 The torque only "clicks" correctly when reaching it from a constant tightening motion, not from standstill
Hello to every1! Just wanted to add my bit. Finally, a guy who wears gloves when putting together one of the most beautiful inventions to ever grace the world.
You mean you dont enjoy watching his trained thumb action that could be done without thumb 10x faster? Cmon, its a show, doesnt matter he does basic error while screwing on stem, deraileur line is a scrap metal before the bike is even built, and drivechain sounds like it was sitting on floor of the lake for a year, as long as the parts are new, shiny and light.
Easy to do 6.5 with pedals. I love that Aora frame, it has many details. But the rotor discs ... Ai2 cheap and light, the crank set, the brakes i would chage for the lightest disc brakes: TR¡CKSTUFF piccola. Tires ... that are not for XC use. Fork ... I like it because works fine so for me it is OK as the wheel set. Screws in Ti or alu. and some more details like Darimo or Gemini stem, handlebar and seat post. That will give enough room for pedals, better tires and it would be 6.5 again or even less.
Or integrated cockpit, a lightweight casette like the Garbaruk 10-48 12 speed one, not to mention the 32 spoke wheels, even over 15 years ago there were 24 spoke ones in lightweight MTBs...
Something feels fishy hear. There is no way that is 6.5 kg bike. Without pedals it must have at least 200-300g more, perhaps even as much as 7kg (depending on the tolerances).🤔
Bellissima...ma..durerà. o si rompe..nel tempo??? Bisogna essere campioni x girare con una mtb così altrimenti è inutile...comunque complimenti..bravissimo 👍🤗🚴♂️🇮🇹😁
A fox 32 stepcast would also have saved an additional 300 grams, going with a slightly heavier tire and tubules would have been better, sram xx1 axs would have saved a couple, trickstuf picolo would have saved a couple, add titanium pedals and a carbon bottle cage and the total could be around 6kg
The incorrect use of the torque wrench makes me crazy. Why use one in the first place, if you re-tighten every bolt after tightening it with the correct torque?
Valla tr de unno göreceğimi düşünmezdim companentlerde tune olunca tadından yenmiyor. Xtr sette candır. Sram setleride çok severim ama derdi çok bakımı zor anlayan adam bulmak zor kronik sorunları var. Ama shimano öylemi candır can. Bir sram level tl fren setim vardı, dot yağından dolayı süreki sıcak havalarda piston şişiriyor çok uğraştırıcıydı. Shimano deore xt set aldım gençleştim resmen bu kadar mı farkeder :D
Schon ganz nice, aber warum verwendet ihr eine alu topcap von Radon und standart alu spacer, das hat doch an einem Bike dieser Klasse nichts verloren. Und warum klemmt ihr den Schaltzug nicht richtig? Hat das einen Grund? Die schweren Hope Scheiben könnte man auch durch leichtere ersetzen, bei dem Einsatzgebiet wird die verbesserte Wärmeableitung eh nicht gebraucht und die Shimano bremsen können allein von der Auflagefläche das Potenzial nicht nutzen.
How in the heck can you overtorque with a torque wrench? When it clicks, you stop, like he did. You could alternate between the two bolts and that tiny point something more nm isn't gonna hurt anything. If I've learned anything in the field, is that most of the recommendations are crap. Most of the time you need to overtorque a bit or add gripcompound to actually hold the parts together firmly.
Честно говоря сложно поверить что байк даже главный может весить 6.5 учитывая что у шоссейных велосипедов но нормам UCI минимальный вес у шоссейного велосипеда не должен быть менее 6.2кг . Да и там тоже все карбон и покрышки лёгкие и спереди нет тяжёлой вилки. Выглядит на какой то обмен, но если это и вправду так то моё уважение.
@@richardlocke3375 What Ive done with my road bikes with a carbon steerer is machine a pulley section 1.0 - 1.5 mm wall with about 5 degree of taper going into the middle rib, a central boss tapped to take the tension screw. Then as each one was machined to the Dia of the steerer ID and length was a bit shorter than the stem height I bonded it in with epoxy. Its strong enough to tension the head bearings and a good enough fit to prevent steerer tube collapse of damage.
![TOP FULL SUSPENSION XC Bikes 2025 [2] #mtb #btt #topbikes #bestbikes #mountainbike #topmtb](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xJHaBvhPhug/mqdefault.jpg)
Go easy on the grease buddy, your gonna make that bike weigh an extra half gram.
He really didn’t put a lot of grease..
@@0ShortsKing0 I know was just being sarcastic.
he didnt put grease on the spline core, and also the rear brake caliper use extensor so there you could scrap some grams
same with stickers
@@agarcia-a and use non floating rotors
No pedals - no medals ! :)
Industry standard practice.
@@SecwetGwiwer standard practice which they usually "forget" to mention.
u're wrong, I don't remamber what year it was but someone won the downhill competiion with broken chain. so as we see no pedals can bring gold too
@@TheOutlander82 Aaron Gwin at Leogang in 2015
Complete bikes weights are always without pedals.
I actually was riding my bike in Austria a few weeks ago up a gravel climb to around 1900 meters above sea level and met a guy who had such a mountainbike. It was the brand of a former mtb world champ who now builds these fancy ass bikes. With pedals and bottle cage it weighed just 6.8 kg, absolute madness
U mean dangerholm ?
@@fjokke i was a hardtail, just looked at dangerholm bikes, but i think the guy said it was from an austrian world champ if i remember correctly
Atherton?
@@nicholasvillanueva7469 i dont remember😂 but it looked absolutely sick, the mfer outclimbed me with that shit, i would have needed 40 watts more for the weight difference😂😂
yes. but would you ride it ?
I for sure no, imagine that thing landing on rocks at 30 mph, it would turn straight into pieces :))))))
I did not believe at first, and then listed. I am impressed.
Frame Unno aora = 690g
Fork Sid = 1315g
Seatpost Tune = 200g
Stem Tune = 120g
Saddle Tune = 105g
Handlbar ~ 120g
Wheelset ~ 1000g
Tire Continental pair ~ 910g
Crank E13= 345g
Chain ring ~ 60g
Brake rotor Hope pair = 160g
Brake xtr pair = 395g
Shifter Xtr = 117g
Rear derailleurr Xtr = 222g
Casette Xtr = 363g
Chain Xtr = 242g
Botombraket and headset and other ~ 150g
Grips @esi ~ 50g
Total = 6564g+tube+bolt+rear axel
🙏
Holy Sh#t that is a light frame! The HMX Scott Scale is around 850g with HMF carbon version around 1100g. Not sure I would go near any drops on that thing.
Hope 180mm comes in at 159g each not 160g for the pair, the wheelset also comes in 350g heavier than you have stated, this is a 7kg plus bike, still light but you can see that he never actually lifts the front wheel of the bike off the floor to give the true weight.
pedal?handlebar grip?
It's not the lightest
I don't think it's great for the stem bolts to tighten one first then the other, should they not be evenly tightened? Same goes with the handlebar clamp and rotor bolts with the power drill! Then the cassette, not even making sure the lockring was straight before cranking it down. Very hard to watch I must say from a bike mechanic point of view.
I agree. I am WAY moe careful when I mount my bikes
i don't understand why he uses a torque wrench on the rear disc and then is like "ah fk it" for the front and uses the drill.
this video is for entertainment purposes, who knows what was cut when, we don't even know if that bike was to be used in that configuration... but yeah, there are a few bolt tightening procedures to be followed in assembling mechanical stuffs.
Was looking for this comment.@@kieron88ward
Here I am riding my 23kg dh bike everyday. I think if I rode a bike this light I'd fly away like E.T.!
Here I am with this dilemma - should I pay a metric fuckton of money for a bike that's 10 kg lighter than mine... or keep riding my heavy bike until I take more than 10kg of weight off myself for free achieving pretty much the same result. Decisions, decisions....
@@mikek9297 Doesn't work that way. 10kg lighter bike is like night and day difference. Where as 10kg on yourself is only just noticeable. It's significantly more difficult to try and bunny hop a 25kg ebike than it with a 16kg mountainibike. But 80 to 90kg bodyweight not a lot of difference.
@@rawmancemtb I'm working with 115kg of my own weight and a bike that's somewhere between 15-16kg without extra equipment... a hardtail, entry-level XC back from 2009. Can't bunny hop it, can't do a proper wheelie. I'm thinking I better start with me and see if I can get somewhere before I start pumping coin into the bike.
@@mikek9297 same man,bought myself an mtb alloy frame (quite heavy) and with bodyweight same like yours. usually ride ride the bike like a roadbike on the road lol
Same here with my 16kg hardtail
Life becoming easy for bike thief’s 😌
@@Timo.U Thieves.
If you're gonna correct someone, be sure you're not wrong.
Yesterday they steal my bike ;(
@@marcalvarez4890 Rexom Stormtv leave chat
@@diegotaiman5953 thats not good
@@baulmitfahrrad ya
These are almost road tires though if you base on continental's site claimed scores based on terrains. I reckon it's closer to 7kg if you put on proper XC tires. But this is still very impressive.
2.2 inch tires are completely fine for XC
@@tomaszosipiak3589 they are talking about the tread pattern I believe
@@tomaszosipiak3589 2.2 is old school by today's standard, but the real crime here is the lack of tread on those tires. That thing will slip like crazy on anything other that pure, clean sandstone or tarmac. Get on some loose dirt, and this bike becomes really scary to ride. Not to mention the lack of puncture protection.
And pedals
You're looking at an extra 60-70g each for Race Kings, which are definitely real XC tyres.
I have a 7kg road bike, and I get scared I'm gonna break something every time I cross railroad tracks. Not sure I'd be willing to ride this in the woods.
Если весишь 150 кг !😂
Bicicleta de carretera año 94 fibra carbono y titanio , campagnolo record más de 160km y aún no se ha roto!!
Pero me fiaría de las de hoy ??????? No lo sé!!
A lot of this bike is closer to a road build than a machine for the trails, but those tires are ridiculous. There has to be a point where you stop worrying about weight and build something fit for purpose. I don’t see this as a mountain bike, just related, as it has a suspension fork.
Would you add component list to the description? Thanks!
All components in this video are made out of pure money.
I hope this helps.
One could say the frame is made out of gold. But no, you are not helping :)
Please can you include a parts list breakdown for this build, I’d like to create something like this myself one day.
Exactly what I was thinking!
Frame is one of unno bikes frame. RockShox SID for suspension fork. The other things idk.
yes i plan to win the lottery aswell
It is just shimano XTR with some Hope rotors if I were to guess. And is it really that hard to find carbon wheels? Or seatposts? Or handlebars? These questions are pretty funny.
Guys, he's not using an impact driver. He's using a clutched drill which is set to a very low number, so it's barely putting through any torque once the bolts are in. He also has what looks like a star bit on there so cam-outs are extremely low chance and he isn't going to strip any threads with the clutch set so low. He probably torqued it manually and then went back and fourth with the drill adjusting the clutch until it put fourth a good amount to get the bolt in there but not fully tightened.
I do the same thing with my RC car - I know that a 5 on my Makita cordless will get my wheel nuts as snug as I would do with a wrench.
why he doesn't use the same torque wrench on the front though? he's just showing off his tools 🤣
That's what I do. Great for speed. Set the drill clutch to 2 so it doesn't over tighten. Use the drill to send all the bolts in quickly then torque them up, simples...
I’ve used an old Bosch drill for years for putting on rotor bolts. Put them on using the 8 setting and take them off using 10.
Cassette bolt got striped by not running a few treads by hand first.
Grease is always good, specially for the next guy to service it. But the cassette bolt part is mind boggling on such a project.
It looked sketchy, but i think it came good. He started a bunch of bolts with a driver only, made me cringe.
(Cassette lock ring) shoulda started by hand yeah but it's not cross threaded; it's fine.
I don't often say this and don't want to be condescending, but with components like these please use your torque wrench carefully! You're not holding it right (your forearm should be perpendicular to the wrench to get an accurate torque reading) and you're fully torqueing the first bolt before you even tighten the others! Instead, you should gradually tighten each bolt (say 2Nm, then 3Nm, then the final torque), otherwise you may put a pressure point on the bars (which can fracture the carbon) and leave it undertightened once the others are done (if you try tightening it again the first bolt won't click the wrench, when the 4th will). Don't get me wrong this is a beautiful bike build, I'm just saying this before you learn the hard way as I have before!
Edit: not to mention the cordless drill!!! Have fun stripping the hub threads and bolt heads
Yeah when he tightened the stem bolts to full torque and the other with nothing I immediately went to the comments.
And "double checking" the torque!! Just one click please. I was picking holed in his technique throughout the vid. Too much grease in some places and no grease in others!
@@markgambrill I think double checking the torque on the stem bolts is important, I find I can triple check before I don't see the bolt move anymore
@@markgambrill yep, always essential once you've tightened them all as it can fluctuate a bit
@@franciss2529 but not the double click method. By all means come back to it for a check but click then click again has been proven to way over torque bolts. I have colleagues who have done studies.
Not to be that guy but:
0:42 - Aluminum seatpost? Could have saved weight.
1:38 - 180mm rotor is just not necessary for an ultralight XC race bike, save the weight of the rotor and the adapter.
1:47 - Bolt is NOT long enough, you can see it only engages 3-4 threads.
2:24 - SO much grease. Not a problem just kinda gross.
3:53 - I know some stems require a spacer above, but 10mm? No thank you.
6:32 - The first of a few things that really should have been torque wrenched.
6:42 - For the sake of your shifter, I hope you put the cap back on the cable access hole.
7:00 - I know this is partially the fault of the frame, but routing the shift cable on the drive side will almost always cause the cable to wear down the frame in front of the cable entry port. Could have used frame protection tape or rubber protector on the cable.
7:17 - Again, of all the things NOT to use a torque wrench on.
7:38 - Grease ALL OVER the spindle, when it's only really needed on the bearing races.
8:31 - I hope you properly set the preload of the crankset off camera...
9:00 - He's not actually gonna put that cable in there without a ferrule is he?
9:04 - Oh god he did.
9:32 - Might just be me, but I'll only cut the cable once I have the shifting indexed. Makes it much easier to move it around and not have to rely on the barrel adjuster.
11:14 - 6mm spacer under the disc brake rotor tells me that you're using a wheelset with a non-boost 142mm hub, with different endcaps to fit 148mm. I hope you've dished the wheel correctly to account for that, but also why not just use a proper boost wheelset?
12:05 - Of all the things not to grease, the thru axle is the most annoying.
12:16 - This is one of the more dangerous things not to use a torque wrench on.
13:14 - I'm perfectly fine driving in rotor bolts with power tools, but to set the clutch THAT low and not torque check them like you did on the rear ones? Ouch.
13:30 - Again, 'tight enough' is not a torque spec on a race bike's thru axle.
14:16 - I know this is more of a glamour video instead of an educational one, but to show all these steps and not show properly setting the derailleur limits, that's a bit weird. Also, turn the clutch on.
14:48 - Please put bar end plugs? Don't want to get core sampled.
15:34 - Purely cosmetic, but holy crap all that effort on the build just to put the sticker on crooked.
16:02 - Weighs ridiculously expensive bike on the cheapest, lowest precision luggage scale I've ever seen.
16:15 - Forgot the compression nut cover on the brake lever, I think it's sitting down where the brake hose enters the frame.
лучшее видео по сборке ещё и с таким прекрасным музыкальным сопровождением
I like how you attach one disc rotor carefully to torque and the other one just winging it with the clutched screwdriver :) Also, I didn't see you put in any hydraulic fluid, so either that wasn't filmed because it's boring or you didn't do it yet in which case add another 200g to that weight total.
Don't most brakes come factory-bled?
No way there's 200ml of that oil in the brake lines.
If they are factory bled and you are careful you don't need to bleed after removing/cutting/refitting the hose. You may just need to do a small top up if anything.
@@sabakvavilashvili8239 He pumps the forks down against the applied front brake around 15:40 there must be fluid in the front brake at least :)
I had the passion of building a light MTB about 3 years ago and I achieved an 8kg bike, pedals included. Weighting a bike without pedals is bullshit, just like the manufacturer's declared weights of many bike parts. This clip would be really useful if it would list each part and it's weight and price
Lol! It's like in the motorcycle manufacturer data sheets, so called "dry weight" to impress the buyers that they build an adventure bike close to 200kg margin, 'cos we want them to be light as possible. :D
read my comment above. He weighed it without getting the front wheel completely offthe ground. The wheel rolled but didnt lift up. slow mo the frames and stop them several times and you'll se what Im talking about.
Dk 45 oyuncu değişlikliği 🤗
I’ve one Aora and is an awesome bike, the best bike I’ve ever ride. Made and handcrafted in Spain, only 50 bikes per year, per model, the best components and the best engineer
Otra opcion es la mondraker podium RR. Mucho más barata
@@albertomiragil850 o desempolvar la de la comunión
@@agarcia-a que tonterias dices? , que tiene que ver el cuadro mas ligero del mercado con una baratija de hace 20 años
ainsss, ese chaval habla de la Aora por que el cuadro del video es un Unno Aora
tu das una respuesta de mierda que no aporta nada pues yo te doy otra
@@agarcia-a de mierda no,.estoy dando otra opción al montaje de cuadro más caro.
En la misma categoría de tipo ,peso y uso
No one is riding actual MTB trails on this. Especially with the tires. This is just a gravel bike with an air fork, and flat bars.
that is called a hardtail and its typical for xc kinda stuff
@@Windows350 I know what a hardtail is. But you don’t often see tires that smooth on xc bikes or xc trails. That’s why I said “gravel bike”
@@shiftlove yeah ok
I rode years trails on those racekings. Summer and winter.
@@Windows350 you mean "no mtb"?
5:49 copper grease on aluminum thread.
9:03 eyeliner in XTR switch without end cap.
17:23 Is this a professional mechanic for sure?
Them: we have the lightest mtb only 6,5 kg
Dangerholm : 6,25kg
dangerholm is gravel not mtb
Go watch dangerholm. if you don't really know him than don't write any comments. He even made a downhillbike🤦 And cross country both hardtail and fullsuspension. His gravel bike is just his newest project
@@noaberton3141 dangerholm makes one-off bikes, not production like unno even if its just 50 units. And take in mind the parts used in this build and in dangerholm build also affect the weight
@@tiagoreis2906 I know but then this is not the "lightest MTB " like the title says.
@@noaberton3141 of course is clickbait to get more views
Essentially a gravel bike. Especially with those tires. Now that Rockshox introduced front forks specifically designed for gravel bikes I feel like this bike and modern gravel bikes are becoming one. The big difference of course being the drop bars. This bike is made for those light XC trails.
I’d send it down some rocky downhill too, seeing as it has a suspension fork. Good all rounder
@@loc9588 i dont know where you ride but its definitly not an allrounder around here
Them tires can’t do anymore than ride light dirt and no pedals or bottle cage :/ so it would be more like 7.5-8 KG but very nice build
Yea, tires aren't the place to be saving weight. Saving 300g by using the lightest tires imaginable might gain you 30 seconds over a 2 hour race from a power/weight perspective, but you'll be slipping on technical climbs, and going slow on downhills. This is why I run light trail tires on my XC bike. Also, not having pedals on the bike when weighing it is cheating.
In case it's not lite enough already, titanium cranks and fox step-cut Factory team issue fork would make it even lighter.
You can use trickstuff piccola brakes and ashima ai2 rotors, garbaruk cassette
but he have to paid them, if the brands o shops sponsor him....
@@joseculebrasarenas7372 what do you even try to say by that?
@@jurekgadzinowski2895 that the video is sponsorized
It can be lighter. Replace all bolts for titanium and aluminium. Replace cables from 1.2mm to 1mm. Cut cables, remove paint and coat, drill some parts of groupset, maybe will be better to use sram groupset. You can use their x-dome technology cassette. Xd hubnut lighter. So I think its possible to remove 500 grams from bike. Its very presumptuously call this bike lightest.
Frrr
İyi ki varsın Caner ❤️
I thought the cable for the M9100 needs a u-turn in order to tighten it.
It does.
It also needs plastic (or metal) caps on the ends of the housing to prevent corrosion and damage from the cable pulling unevenly. But that's the least of this build's problems.
Could've saved at least 20 grams more with going easier on the grease, cutting down the fork, removing the topcap after tightening stem bolts, stripping the paint off the lowers and a couple of other things
😂
EKipmanlar ve ürünler müthiş. Tabii işçilik de :)👌👌🏼
Now drop into any trail other than a gravel road and watch it explode on the first decent.
Because that's not the purpose of the build. It's built to be light, not tough. It's most likely just done for the video but will have its parts actually swapped out for actual use. Or maybe it was never intended to be used. Who knows. Those are all irrelevant. It's a video about a bike being built light. Title didn't lie.
But I'm also certain it'll do fine, I've seen bikes in worse conditions to take on anything...yet it's there. Doing things.
@@paddor Thats what you get buying cheap chinese knock off carbon parts, these TUNE parts are def up for the task - these will not break, but then they are quite expensive as well.
Nice video. Also good, that you exposed yourself to new ideas in these comments.
Nice build but the tyre lettering not being aligned with the rim lettering is sending my OCD haywire!
Ahh thanks for pointing that out, now it’s a bugging me lol!
Now that is one pretty bike. LOL, 20 years ago I would have given a body part to own that beautiful machine.
And now at 40 suspension and comfort are a little more important.. But still that is a work of art. Great video man. 👍👍👍
Thank You :)
@@Haytabike I am still an avid biker. I just an probably over the weight limit on that one. I am just around 300 lbs (145 kg approx) these days. So I would Love to take that beauty for a gentle and fast ride, but out of respect keeping those wheels on the ground.. Don’t need to be breaking what ever that is worth. I got an Older Norco Enduro type bike that around LOL.. yup 20 Kilos, so over twice your bike.
Haha, but at least I can’t break it easily.
You have a great weekend.
Everyone else looking forward to summer, I know I am.
This double torque wrench clicking drives me insane 😀 The torque only "clicks" correctly when reaching it from a constant tightening motion, not from standstill
Hello to every1! Just wanted to add my bit. Finally, a guy who wears gloves when putting together one of the most beautiful inventions to ever grace the world.
Incredible... And there's still a few weight savings to be made.
7:47 best part
Nice bike but I think I’ll stick with full suspension, pedals and a dropper seat for just under 10kg
Wow 😯! Thanks for the Mtb video, i saw it for the first time.
:))
What kind of tube is that transparent..like a plastic.
Durex?
It would be better if you did an in depth details of the parts used and their weight and specs.
Nice bike. With those tires and not being tubeless, I’d stick to the gravel roads, ;)
Wi-fi pedals? 😂
Great job bro 👍🏽👏🏽
oooo caner beylerde burdaymış naysooo
Hoşgeldiniz hoşgeldiniz buyrun ön masalara alalım
what is that pink grease to put shock and handle bar? Thank you
Is the cable housing cap missing on the RD?
That’s what I saw . Mite not shift well.
I want a single speed rim brake 26” version, with pedals.
Also those tires are just good rim protectors.
Bike build vids on UA-cam are like Tarantino movies. They’d be twice as good if they were half as long.
You mean you dont enjoy watching his trained thumb action that could be done without thumb 10x faster? Cmon, its a show, doesnt matter he does basic error while screwing on stem, deraileur line is a scrap metal before the bike is even built, and drivechain sounds like it was sitting on floor of the lake for a year, as long as the parts are new, shiny and light.
You can speed up twice:)
What is that kind of inner tube?
Koşun koşun millet Ömer hayta Mtb topluyor..!!!
Ömer hayta mi 😳
@@canersagcan6482 suç ortağı da Caner sağcan
Easy to do 6.5 with pedals. I love that Aora frame, it has many details. But the rotor discs ... Ai2 cheap and light, the crank set, the brakes i would chage for the lightest disc brakes: TR¡CKSTUFF piccola. Tires ... that are not for XC use. Fork ... I like it because works fine so for me it is OK as the wheel set. Screws in Ti or alu. and some more details like Darimo or Gemini stem, handlebar and seat post. That will give enough room for pedals, better tires and it would be 6.5 again or even less.
Or integrated cockpit, a lightweight casette like the Garbaruk 10-48 12 speed one, not to mention the 32 spoke wheels, even over 15 years ago there were 24 spoke ones in lightweight MTBs...
Something feels fishy hear. There is no way that is 6.5 kg bike. Without pedals it must have at least 200-300g more, perhaps even as much as 7kg (depending on the tolerances).🤔
I agree this! With the drivetrain, that fork and nothing I see is ultra light weight. Need to list out the items.
He did not lift the bike from ground. The front wheel is not in the air
super! ...that means a real mountain bike - congratulations!
Ficou linda essa bicicleta, deu vontade de pedalar, uma bicicleta com esses componentes aqui no Brasil custa mais caro que um carro, pode acreditar.
No mínimo do mínimo uns 60 mil
Na Aliexpress dá pra montar uma de menos de 10Kg gastando bem menos. Agora 6,5Kg é sinistro.
@@ssenssel Só meu quadro pesa 15kg kkkk
Bellissima...ma..durerà. o si rompe..nel tempo??? Bisogna essere campioni x girare con una mtb così altrimenti è inutile...comunque complimenti..bravissimo 👍🤗🚴♂️🇮🇹😁
I’ve made my bike lighter by making it airtight and filling it full of helium. It now weighs 4kg
Million dollar idea of the future🤪
Wait, for real?
me too.. i just swap my alloy frame to plastick bubblewrap
Wow really ?
You should try Hydrogen , lighter still... just don’t crash!
Müsste das Rad beim wiegen nicht auch mit dem Vorderrad in der Luft hängen und nicht dabei den Boden berühren?
7:40 that slap had me rollin
💀
What are those very thin wheel rigs for? This looks as bad quality to me.
bottlecage and pedals are overrated anyway
True haha
Valve caps? Nobody needs em anyways
@@weplaywax haha
He also forgot the bar end plugs
@@weplaywax Frame can go too. All you need to do is grabbing onto the axles with your bare hands and feet. Should work like wonder.
He didn't put an end cap on the gear cable outer into the rear mech? Also why mix Allen rotor bolts on rear but Torx bolts on front?
Going 1x11 with a e13 9-46t cassette and smaller front chain ring would shave even More weight, while saving money as well 🤷🏻♂️
Are these reliable?
@@10Filip yes
A fox 32 stepcast would also have saved an additional 300 grams, going with a slightly heavier tire and tubules would have been better, sram xx1 axs would have saved a couple, trickstuf picolo would have saved a couple, add titanium pedals and a carbon bottle cage and the total could be around 6kg
What is the tire that you used?
Continental Speedking 29x2.2. It is literally written on a sidewall.
Lighter than my fixed gear 😍😍
Deleting this comment soon, my new fxdgr weighs around 6.6kg rn hehehehe
How much the price
Is this the new sid ultimate (none SL)? Why is it not milled out?
This guy: Say “torque to spec”
Me “UGGIE DUGGIES!!!”
The incorrect use of the torque wrench makes me crazy. Why use one in the first place, if you re-tighten every bolt after tightening it with the correct torque?
Valla tr de unno göreceğimi düşünmezdim companentlerde tune olunca tadından yenmiyor. Xtr sette candır. Sram setleride çok severim ama derdi çok bakımı zor anlayan adam bulmak zor kronik sorunları var. Ama shimano öylemi candır can. Bir sram level tl fren setim vardı, dot yağından dolayı süreki sıcak havalarda piston şişiriyor çok uğraştırıcıydı. Shimano deore xt set aldım gençleştim resmen bu kadar mı farkeder :D
How can you ride on stones with 700g frame and 1000g wheels???
Should have at least installed some bar end caps, very dangerous.
It is recommended to apply with a brush when applying grease.
Elinize sağlık çok iyi bisiklet iyi iş👍👍👍
those bb beargins just fall out? u gotta use retaining compound
Wow!!! but only in my dream🤩
Schon ganz nice, aber warum verwendet ihr eine alu topcap von Radon und standart alu spacer, das hat doch an einem Bike dieser Klasse nichts verloren. Und warum klemmt ihr den Schaltzug nicht richtig? Hat das einen Grund?
Die schweren Hope Scheiben könnte man auch durch leichtere ersetzen, bei dem Einsatzgebiet wird die verbesserte Wärmeableitung eh nicht gebraucht und die Shimano bremsen können allein von der Auflagefläche das Potenzial nicht nutzen.
meu sonho de consumo ter uma bike dessas show de bola 🤩🤩🤩
How has that ethirteen crank been holding up? I'm thinking about getting it for my gravel bike.
Hayatabike: we have the lightest bike @6.5kg
me with a 15kg hardtail: 👁👄👁
15kg? i got 13kg..
Which is the inner tube model at 9:50 ....thanks
Max rider weight: 65KG
Perfect ASMR video: Heavy dude assembles lightweight bike
Everyone saw in many places that you could have saved weight - the chain was too long anyway.
How long does it take to assemble a bike without filming? 3-5 hours?
Lightest MTB? No. Gustav Gullholm made a Scale RC 900 SL hardtail mountain bike - 6.22kg
With 11v, and " smokepaper" tyres
Is shimano xtr generally the lightest groupset?
Yes, except for the cranks, so they installed EThirteen cranks lol
He didn’t use a cable housing end on the rear derailleur.
Yeah. The bike should be 6502g instead of 6500g.
Why did he route the right shifter cable on the right side of the bike?
There's many small errors in the video, that's also not the right way to route the shifter cable on the derraikeur
Did one rotor by hand… then said FTS and grabbed the drill for the other.
With a dropper post and more aggressive tread it’s the perfect trail hardtail
Not really, Stem is still longer than balls and the bars are flat as anything, plus the reach won’t be the same.
This guy needs some extra torque wrench training. Why is he rushing? He ends up over-torquing every fastener!
We do it old school you kiddo
@@Akirazko well if you want your modern hyper light ultra thin components to last that's not how you do it
extra training*
How in the heck can you overtorque with a torque wrench? When it clicks, you stop, like he did. You could alternate between the two bolts and that tiny point something more nm isn't gonna hurt anything. If I've learned anything in the field, is that most of the recommendations are crap. Most of the time you need to overtorque a bit or add gripcompound to actually hold the parts together firmly.
Awesone bike
revoloop TPU or schwalbe aerothan TPU inner tubes
10 parmağında 128 marifet var kardeşimin :) Sahne de Caner Sağcan ...
do they have any dual sport hybrid light weight like this?
What if it's just 8x1 or 6x1 I will just become lighter
Честно говоря сложно поверить что байк даже главный может весить 6.5 учитывая что у шоссейных велосипедов но нормам UCI минимальный вес у шоссейного велосипеда не должен быть менее 6.2кг . Да и там тоже все карбон и покрышки лёгкие и спереди нет тяжёлой вилки. Выглядит на какой то обмен, но если это и вправду так то моё уважение.
The lightest MTB would have a fork cut to size without the extra spacer.
It’s required to prevent clamping at the end of the steerer.
Nahhh it would have solid forks like mine .........
@@richardlocke3375 What Ive done with my road bikes with a carbon steerer is machine a pulley section 1.0 - 1.5 mm wall with about 5 degree of taper going into the middle rib, a central boss tapped to
take the tension screw. Then as each one was machined to the Dia
of the steerer ID and length was a bit shorter than the stem height I
bonded it in with epoxy. Its strong enough to tension the head bearings
and a good enough fit to prevent steerer tube collapse of damage.
@@richardlocke3375 Use a compression plug, problem solved.
for what? to gain 0.3 of a gram?
0:47 First mistake, the seat tube clamp is better with the clamping bolt on the front side