I subscribed to the Handyverse due to the statement, "turning to DIY as a first resort when our knowledge and skills allow it." I'm looking forward to future content.
Wish I came across your tutorial video before I set my stand up with the garbage directions. I got through it but it was silly. Haven’t got a chance to make some cuts but enjoyed the video.
Out of the box I’ve never had any issues for the last couple of years and I use my rigid daily for my woodworking business and have since switched over all my shop tools to rigid from planers and everything in between with no issues and I have never needed to use the lifetime warranty so I have no information if it’s any good? I only have 2 tools that are not rigid now my bandsaw and my Makita that I don’t use
AWESOME JOB, on detailing the setup and use of this saw. Since this video was a year ago, do you still like the saw and just how thick and wide of a piece of wood would it cut, would it cut a two by twelve in half? Many thanks for taking the time to do this EXCELLENT Video, You made me a subscriber. Please stay healthy and safe out there!
When it came out it was the largest miter saw and could do the highest degree of miter angle (70 degree) than any saw on the market as well as the maximum width that you can cut (that varies depending on how thick the stock your cutting is). It can cut a 2x12 easily and you can even miter one up to a certain amount of degrees (i forget what the max is on 2x12). If you're cutting 1/4 plywood I think the max you can cut is a 17 or 18 inch wide strip of 1/4 plywood. The thicker the plywood gets the less max width you can cut. If you work with large crown molding you'll really love it. I've had mine i think 2 yrs now and (saw and the stand) and I wouldn't trade it for anything. You'll love the shadow line for cutting. I can stand a 2x8 up on edge and has enough vertical clearance to cut it. You have to make 2 or 3 passes but no other saw can do that. It can also cut really large posts all the way through b/c it has huge range.
Absolutely EXCELLENT INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO you did on this saw!!! I can’t thank you enough for HOW MUCH TIME you saved me in putting together the table and saw. You instructions were not too fast and very detailed!!! Thank you SO MUCH!!! If you ever have the opportunity to make a video on actually using the saw different ways or projects, that would be very helpful too to us first t8me users of this great saw and stand. Anyway, one of the best how to videos I have ever watched, TWICE!!
Great video. Thank you. I assembled it already, and agree, the instructions could have been better. Some of the diagrams looked to be flipped, but you can figure it out. I was hoping for more instruction on how to use this saw. Well, I guess I have to read the manual.
I just picked one up as it was on sale. $399 with the mobile stand. I also just returned it to the store. Mine had a serious problem with vibration and wobble. On my saw this was caused by the motor's brake. When I turned the saw on, it would vibrate and wobble until the RPM was high enough to disengage the clutch. This would happen after around 4-5 seconds. Once up to speed it was smooth with no wobble Problem is, once you start a cut the RPM drops slightly and the brake/clutch engaged again causing vibration and wobble. Just a poorly tuned, or setup brake on my saw. Otherwise, nice saw and and stand for $399
There are some clips that are screwed into the sliding fence rail next to the fence lock knob. The screw needed to be loosened to allow the miter fences to be mounted. Can those clips be removed? Aren’t mentioned in instructions.
This was very helpful thank you yea during my assembly the (u) were stiff and a pit of a pain to get the Frame assemble but man it's a solid solid saw especially with the Xtra mitre depth
I just bought a new Ridgid miter saw model R4222 and I think it's the same model you have. One thing I had to adjust was the fence being square to the blade.
Just got one yesterday and the blade is slanting. How do i get it straight and in line with the cut surface and how do i bevel to the right and left 45 degree angles?
The HD has these with "free" stand for $399 right now. Seemed like a good enough deal so I plunged. Good vid. Thanks edit: Damnit, I see in previous comments this was on sale a year ago also. They got me. Oh well, needed a decent enough saw anyways. I'm not building spacecraft or submarines...
Biggest complaint is that the bolts weren’t labeled. Became obvious once I started watching a couple vids. I didn’t want to inbox this thing because I was thinking of retiring it because it’s so gargantuan. But….to hell with it I’m keeping it. (I only have a ten inch non sliding so it’s a bit overkill)
blade wobble - the video clearly shows a little, but I'm note sure how significant it is. I'm about to trim out my downstairs. I have so much wobble in my house, damage to medal bead trim, etc. You have to keep things in perspective. If you are doing fine carpentry where 1/64" is important, you'd not use ta cross cut saw. Then you have to take into account the wood you are using. Most trim and what have you we'd cut with a saw like this is going to be fir. If you cut fir PERFECTLY in 3 months it will have changed :)
just bought this same setup, the instructions are useless - well I have to eat some crow as I didn't read things carefully enough. For some reason, Rigid put all the diagrams at the end of the booklet. Now, one warning. Make sure you align the table top correctly BEFORE putting on the wheels. Once I figured out my moronic mistake, I had this assembled in 10 minutes.
I bought that miter saw and miter saw stand almost 2 years ago and I love it. I don't know WTF is going on with the miter saw stand and where the damage is coming from, but I ordered my stand, and it came in the mail. I noticed a 6-inch gash in the box as soon as I saw it. Unpacked everything and got to the part where you put the U-bent bar (not the handle one but the base one) and noticed it had been bent pretty badly on the end so it would not fit in the female end of the main frame bar. I assumed it must have happened during shipping b/c the gash looked like a forklift hit the box and punctured it. So, I had to take it back and get a refund then I immediately ordered a new stand. The new stand comes in, and AGAIN, there's a gash in the box about the same size. Same thing - the box was punctured in the same spot and again it was the exact same bar, and the end was bent AGAIN. I was so pissed off. But fortunately, it wasn't bent as badly, and I was able to flare it out straight enough that it would fit in the female connection on the main frame. I was on UA-cam and there were several people saying the exact same thing. My question goes to Ridgid - WTF is causing this and WTF are you guys doing to prevent it? Obviously, nothing. I did have to send my first R4222 off for repair b/c the tension screws that control the arm lever lock and miter lever lock were put on way too tight and I almost had to grab the lock with 2 hands to release. To lessen the tension, you have to adjust these bolts/nuts/screws on the underside of the arm but they are so flimsy they snapped when I tried to adjust. They sent me a completely new replacement R4222, and the tension was set perfect. That was the last problem I had with the saw and stand and since then I wouldn't trade them for anything. The best thing to do is immediately learn how to calibrate the bevel (blade to table 90 degrees) and miter (blade to fence 90 degrees). If you have to calibrate the miter b/c it isn't quite square the first thing you want to do is loosen one of the screws on the detent plate that is 1 to the left or right of the center screw on the detent plate. If you dont do that first then you'll have to redo the remaining 4 or 5 steps if you don't.
@@justinm8114 I think its happening at the shipping end (ups I think is who they use) because the boxes in home depot stores weren't gouged but it still makes no sense because UPS handles large boxes all the time. No idea why this one product is always damaged from the outside
@@justinm8114 Its a really good stand though and is much sturdier than other brands. Still using mine all the time. Only thing I'd change are the lever knobs that lock the sliding support extensions.
Just bought the same combo. The stand instructions are just horrible. But I really like how it operates. I can store the stand with the saw attached in a much smaller space than expected.
Yes the instructions for the stand are completely useless. I found looking at the picture on the box way more useful. "Use bolt B, washer C, and Nut E..." they don't tell you what hardware goes with the letters.
I subscribed to the Handyverse due to the statement, "turning to DIY as a first resort when our knowledge and skills allow it." I'm looking forward to future content.
Really appreciated the video. I was about to go crazy with the manual diagrams! Very detailed. Thank you.
Wish I came across your tutorial video before I set my stand up with the garbage directions. I got through it but it was silly. Haven’t got a chance to make some cuts but enjoyed the video.
Out of the box I’ve never had any issues for the last couple of years and I use my rigid daily for my woodworking business and have since switched over all my shop tools to rigid from planers and everything in between with no issues and I have never needed to use the lifetime warranty so I have no information if it’s any good? I only have 2 tools that are not rigid now my bandsaw and my Makita that I don’t use
Thanks for running through the process from start to end on unboxing & setup.
AWESOME JOB, on detailing the setup and use of this saw. Since this video was a year ago, do you still like the saw and just how thick and wide of a piece of wood would it cut, would it cut a two by twelve in half? Many thanks for taking the time to do this EXCELLENT Video, You made me a subscriber. Please stay healthy and safe out there!
When it came out it was the largest miter saw and could do the highest degree of miter angle (70 degree) than any saw on the market as well as the maximum width that you can cut (that varies depending on how thick the stock your cutting is). It can cut a 2x12 easily and you can even miter one up to a certain amount of degrees (i forget what the max is on 2x12). If you're cutting 1/4 plywood I think the max you can cut is a 17 or 18 inch wide strip of 1/4 plywood. The thicker the plywood gets the less max width you can cut. If you work with large crown molding you'll really love it. I've had mine i think 2 yrs now and (saw and the stand) and I wouldn't trade it for anything. You'll love the shadow line for cutting. I can stand a 2x8 up on edge and has enough vertical clearance to cut it. You have to make 2 or 3 passes but no other saw can do that. It can also cut really large posts all the way through b/c it has huge range.
Absolutely EXCELLENT INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO you did on this saw!!! I can’t thank you enough for HOW MUCH TIME you saved me in putting together the table and saw. You instructions were not too fast and very detailed!!! Thank you SO MUCH!!! If you ever have the opportunity to make a video on actually using the saw different ways or projects, that would be very helpful too to us first t8me users of this great saw and stand. Anyway, one of the best how to videos I have ever watched, TWICE!!
Great video. Thank you. I assembled it already, and agree, the instructions could have been better. Some of the diagrams looked to be flipped, but you can figure it out.
I was hoping for more instruction on how to use this saw. Well, I guess I have to read the manual.
Thank you for the run through. It helped me when I got ahead of myself setting mine up.
Wow awesome video my friend. Exactly what I needed because yes, the instruction on both the stand and the saw are terrible. Very good job!
I just picked one up as it was on sale. $399 with the mobile stand. I also just returned it to the store. Mine had a serious problem with vibration and wobble. On my saw this was caused by the motor's brake. When I turned the saw on, it would vibrate and wobble until the RPM was high enough to disengage the clutch. This would happen after around 4-5 seconds. Once up to speed it was smooth with no wobble Problem is, once you start a cut the RPM drops slightly and the brake/clutch engaged again causing vibration and wobble. Just a poorly tuned, or setup brake on my saw. Otherwise, nice saw and and stand for $399
Great video, exactly what I was looking for thank you!
There are some clips that are screwed into the sliding fence rail next to the fence lock knob. The screw needed to be loosened to allow the miter fences to be mounted. Can those clips be removed? Aren’t mentioned in instructions.
This was very helpful thank you yea during my assembly the (u) were stiff and a pit of a pain to get the Frame assemble but man it's a solid solid saw especially with the Xtra mitre depth
Thank you for this video. I though I was going to return my saw because I couldn’t figure out how to attach the support brackets to the saw. Lol.
The instructions that come with it are sinfully awful!
Thank you very much for making this instructional video. It was very helpful.
Nice video thank you
Thank you for this! Totally helped when putting together my new saw 🏆
I just bought a new Ridgid miter saw model R4222 and I think it's the same model you have. One thing I had to adjust was the fence being square to the blade.
How did you fix the problem of the fence not being square when tightened? Shims?
How does it work today
Just got one yesterday and the blade is slanting. How do i get it straight and in line with the cut surface and how do i bevel to the right and left 45 degree angles?
The HD has these with "free" stand for $399 right now. Seemed like a good enough deal so I plunged. Good vid. Thanks
edit: Damnit, I see in previous comments this was on sale a year ago also. They got me. Oh well, needed a decent enough saw anyways. I'm not building spacecraft or submarines...
Great realistic- tutorial, many thanks!
Biggest complaint is that the bolts weren’t labeled. Became obvious once I started watching a couple vids. I didn’t want to inbox this thing because I was thinking of retiring it because it’s so gargantuan. But….to hell with it I’m keeping it. (I only have a ten inch non sliding so it’s a bit overkill)
I thought exactly the same bought the same setup
Excellent tutorial, thank you.
OMG THANK YOU 🙏
that 60 tooth Ridgid blade is pretty good
I got the saw at the home cheapo on sale for 299 in march of 2023
Anyone have issues with the stand not being quite level?
Very helpful thanks
blade wobble - the video clearly shows a little, but I'm note sure how significant it is. I'm about to trim out my downstairs. I have so much wobble in my house, damage to medal bead trim, etc. You have to keep things in perspective. If you are doing fine carpentry where 1/64" is important, you'd not use ta cross cut saw. Then you have to take into account the wood you are using. Most trim and what have you we'd cut with a saw like this is going to be fir. If you cut fir PERFECTLY in 3 months it will have changed :)
just bought this same setup, the instructions are useless - well I have to eat some crow as I didn't read things carefully enough. For some reason, Rigid put all the diagrams at the end of the booklet.
Now, one warning. Make sure you align the table top correctly BEFORE putting on the wheels. Once I figured out my moronic mistake, I had this assembled in 10 minutes.
I bought that miter saw and miter saw stand almost 2 years ago and I love it. I don't know WTF is going on with the miter saw stand and where the damage is coming from, but I ordered my stand, and it came in the mail. I noticed a 6-inch gash in the box as soon as I saw it. Unpacked everything and got to the part where you put the U-bent bar (not the handle one but the base one) and noticed it had been bent pretty badly on the end so it would not fit in the female end of the main frame bar. I assumed it must have happened during shipping b/c the gash looked like a forklift hit the box and punctured it. So, I had to take it back and get a refund then I immediately ordered a new stand. The new stand comes in, and AGAIN, there's a gash in the box about the same size. Same thing - the box was punctured in the same spot and again it was the exact same bar, and the end was bent AGAIN. I was so pissed off. But fortunately, it wasn't bent as badly, and I was able to flare it out straight enough that it would fit in the female connection on the main frame. I was on UA-cam and there were several people saying the exact same thing. My question goes to Ridgid - WTF is causing this and WTF are you guys doing to prevent it? Obviously, nothing. I did have to send my first R4222 off for repair b/c the tension screws that control the arm lever lock and miter lever lock were put on way too tight and I almost had to grab the lock with 2 hands to release. To lessen the tension, you have to adjust these bolts/nuts/screws on the underside of the arm but they are so flimsy they snapped when I tried to adjust. They sent me a completely new replacement R4222, and the tension was set perfect. That was the last problem I had with the saw and stand and since then I wouldn't trade them for anything. The best thing to do is immediately learn how to calibrate the bevel (blade to table 90 degrees) and miter (blade to fence 90 degrees). If you have to calibrate the miter b/c it isn't quite square the first thing you want to do is loosen one of the screws on the detent plate that is 1 to the left or right of the center screw on the detent plate. If you dont do that first then you'll have to redo the remaining 4 or 5 steps if you don't.
Same issue with the bar as you. The end seemed to be a little flattened. I flared it out and was able to work it in.
@@justinm8114 I think its happening at the shipping end (ups I think is who they use) because the boxes in home depot stores weren't gouged but it still makes no sense because UPS handles large boxes all the time. No idea why this one product is always damaged from the outside
@@justinm8114 Its a really good stand though and is much sturdier than other brands. Still using mine all the time. Only thing I'd change are the lever knobs that lock the sliding support extensions.
Mine took some kicking to get it in.....LOL....@@justinm8114
Just bought the same combo. The stand instructions are just horrible. But I really like how it operates. I can store the stand with the saw attached in a much smaller space than expected.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
I’ll watch your vid rather than read through the manual.
💯%!!
I got the saw and stand and this video helped set it all up.
The instructions are darn near worthless
Yes the instructions for the stand are completely useless. I found looking at the picture on the box way more useful. "Use bolt B, washer C, and Nut E..." they don't tell you what hardware goes with the letters.
4:20 - why is this even a question? If you want the consumer to assemble your product, ffs . not giving home depot a pass on this.
I hate rigid
Thanks for letting us all know that.
:D