🔆HEADLIGHT BUFFING VS CLEAR COATING / WHAT'S THE BEST OPTION?
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- Опубліковано 31 бер 2019
- Let's see the difference between buffing your headlights and clear coating them, What's the best option long term and whats the quickest?
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10K is here next stop 100K
Come on people this man is very good at what he does let’s put him on top we’re he belongs
good stuff! I've used this same technic with my 64 comet tail lights because they are so rare. I also used SEM red lense spray to rejuvenate the red before applying 2K clear. Thanks for sharing and excellent work!
Awesome video!! I’ve been debating on how I want to do my lenses on my 91 and now I’m definitely clear coating
Awesome, I am about to clear coat mine so thanks for your video, it was definitely worth the watch and thanks for the information.
This is actually the best headlight restore video I've ever seen on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing.
I agree! It is important to buy clear coat with UV protection!
@@josipmatic4732 over the counter clearcoat with "uv protector" is trash. It must be a 2k clear. One part clear other part hardener
Awesome!! Finally a straight forward explanation. Thank you!
The best restoration and comparison.
Thank you.
Great video. 👍. Keep up the good work !
I have done more than 3000 pairs of head lights restoration in few years of my detailing career, The problem I found with clear coat method is that when the clear coat started to crack and peeling, it’s really difficult to restore again, and it’s always a pain in the a** when I see customer have those clear coat problems, it requires a lot of hard sanding again and more than 20 mins to sand off each light properly.
But the buffed original surface without any coating is much easier to restore again in next few months, it’ll only need 2 mins 2000 grit wet sanding and buff, finish restoration again in less than 10mins and it’ll last another half year before buff again easily.
That's why you should never ever use 2k on headlights, As a rule of thumb if it's not written on the can don't use it!! I wish more of the pro 2k community would read your comment?? I have noticed that no one as liked your point of view? Wonder why!!🤔
@@keithroberts5611 still too many people use normal clear coat and even use resin to brush on the headlights 😂 I also found some of the the OEM UV coating also really difficult to restore when they get bad.
But eventually the UV will make the polycarbonate brittle, and you will get cracking. Then you cannot buff it any more, you need to replace the headlights.
Use a DA to sand all that crap off, starting with 320-400, finish with around 800-1000 grit. Use a high quality urethane clearcoat. Been doing this for many years in the collision repair industry. They look great and will not crack or peel. People that use the cheap spray can clear usually have problems down the road.
High quality urethane will not crack and peel. I mix and spray with a gun
awesome video brew man if the lights are bad like yours where i start with 320 grit 600 then 1000 I've probably prepped out at least 5000 lights at the shop to restore them also our specialty was tinting them with black base coat and clear on tail lights marker lights and reflectors
I have started at that grit many times myself, it definitely gives you a chance to get down past the issues and does usually turn out better. I was trying to keep the grits as simple as possible in this video. Believe it or not I used to restore and tint headlights back around 07-09 I did a lot on SVT Performance.
couldn't tell if this was an April fool's joke video and then I realized it wasn't, those headlights look amazing!
Great vid ,thanks for the info, i buff my lights on my 87 every 30 days and tail lights👍👍👍👍
Best way to stay on top of it! 👌
I wet sanded and cleared my third brake light on my 01’ GT. Made a world of difference. Plus it’s a lot cheaper than buying a new one.
Gotta do that to my 87 gt 3rd also.
what grit of sand paper did you use @bradvaughan
BCMACH1 I started with 600 then 1000.
Thanks bro!! i need to do that on my mach. instead if buying a cheap replacement one. i want to keep the oem.
@braud vaughan
Awesome work!!! 💯💯💯💯
wet sand & 5 coats clear last good enough. Those that like to wet sand & buff and not spray this sounds crazy but ive been buffin with 3M machine glaze & NuFinish mixed 50/50 w/1 ounce of distilled water, less is best turns out super! 30 years practice
I just polished my wife's headlights yesterday and I was thinking that you should do this vid. Haha.
Lol, great minds👍
Great info thanks
Wow I really think you should open your own shop your so full of knowledge about everything I can’t even lie your a mechanic and body man some people never get that far honestly me myself I do mechanic work but hate the wiring and electrical part of it still got certain friends I call to help with that part just like how they call me engine problems but I’m saying that to say this your gifted and it’s only right to give it back to the world 🌎 keep it up this channel helps a lot
Thanks brother, but honestly I just mess around with a lot of stuff.. jack of all trades master of none type thing. 😂
Truth to that but your really good and your knowledgeable of it as well a lot of stuff I can do I could never explain facts
Looks great.
When i did mine i used plastX and it lasted years.. they looked brand new the day i sold that car.
I’ve not been so lucky, but I’m sure if you keep them waxed they will last a lot longer.
I've used plastx and got good results, waxed aswell, and after 6 months it faded back to yellow, I keep it around in case I want to quickly polish lights to sell a car lol
@@AFXGaming you simply applied plastx and polished it?
Great tip brother, that's a fun weekend project!
Thanks, 😎👍
very good info here.. on my daily and my wife's truck I polish the headlights up every season pretty much.. clearcoating is more durable but to me not a big deal to throw some Novus on them and polish away...
Yeah I should have mentioned the fact that you can stay on top on them with some good wax and they will last a lot longer.
NOVUS is the cheapest cost about $1 for two headlights and small novus bottles will do about 12 headlights at around $12 for the NOVUS with the bigger bottles comes out to .25cents a headlight
Amazing!
great video
Great video! Is adhesion promoter recommended?
I started with 120 grit and went up to 3000. 600 wont be low enough for rock chips and older cars imo. Good video
It's a wonder you have any polycarbonate left to polish 😂
Great video. I still have the stock lights on my car. I might try to restore em this way. I was wondering tho, whered you get that pump spray bottle?
2 posts down Walmart he thinks
Hey great video! Can I go up to 2000 grit and then clear coat? or this is too fine for the coat to bond? iv seen other similar ones that have gone up to even 3000. hence i was confused.working on my 20 year old Audi TT MK1. Thanks
Hi! Great video. 2k clear coat? What kind of paint does a regular guy look for at the hardware store or auto part store. Thank You
I have wet sanded, buffed and clear coated a headlight and looks good.
How did you clear coated it? what do I have to buy?
@@pakistanilad1254 I used a spray on clear coat called clear coat 4k. Advanced auto should have it. Let set for about an hour after last coat and should be good to go
Great video and how to, thanks!
Does that clear coat feature UV protection? That would be better if it did, right?
There's three ways to do it.
The best one is real automotive clear coat, it's definitely uv resistant, but it's expensive and sometimes harder to apply.
Then there's rustoleum special uv resistant clear coat, I've heard people having good results with it.
The last option is just a regular clear coat that's rated for outside use, it probably is the one that is the least uv resistant compared to the two others, but in my experience it does the job just fine and I haven't had any problems with it, the pro is that you probably have a random can of it laying around in your garage already.
I'm sure that will help alot of people. This is exactly how I do mine as well, most time I clear them. If someone else's or a car I'm selling, I may just polish HEHE
I found a pair of new edge headlights that were worse. They cleaned up with the buffing process but I wasn't satisfied. Thinking of re-doing starting with P240.T hese are headlights that I'm learning with, will not be going on the new edge.
Did y’all understand the words that came out my mouth..!!!! Haha very cool brew. Need to go back to glass. 🤫🤫🤫those environmentalist!! Lol
Just subscribed thank you for the info!
Quick question.. do I absolutely need 2k for clearcoat? Or can I use another brand of non yellowing UV resistant clear coat such as rustoleum
The 2x uv resistance rustoleum is actually pretty good for this use. In the past I've used some cheap random unknown brand clear coat and it did fine, so you shouldn't worry too much.
Informative
They said that any clear coat applied to a headlight housing can cause refraction but you can only reduced the refraction by wetsanding it.
Hi, can you link where you purchased your drill backing plate and pads?
I did the buffing process 8 years ago, except I put clear vinyl on the lights and they've been maintenance free. Only last year I've noticed the vinyl is starting wear, but it still looks clear. It's not damaged enough to make me want to do anything about it.
Nice! I like that idea too 🤔😎
@@BREW2LFOXBODY I spent a little bit for a precut kit back then, it did the heads and fogs on my SVT Focus. It's thick clear bra material, but I think it makes it easier to conform to complex contours and it's not easily ruined by novice application.
The vinyl on ebay is a lot thinner like and I use it on my fogs now, but surprisingly it keeps the glass from pitting and breaking. Flat lights like on a fox (or any mustang really) I'd try the ebay stuff since it's so cheap nowadays; might have to trim and polish off those nipples on the fox body though before applying vinyl. lol
You need to remove all the oxidation first or it gets stuck underneath. Dry sanding is absolutely the best method then wet sand. Then polish and lastly clear coat! Best results guaranteed!
Couldn't agree more!!!🤔🫡👍
Is polishing and buffing the same
@milagrossmith4891 In essence yes, they are the same. Just may depend on what coatings you're using. But yes, the terms are interchangeable.
The sale perfect spray can clear coats with UV protection too.
great vid others i've seen buff before clear coat is there difference.
Personally I would not clear coat over a polished finish, the clear has a hard time bonding to a super slick finish.
Curious where you get your pump sprayers from? As always, love the vids! 👍
Walmart I think..🤔
Thanks!
When are you dropping the notch reveal?
Definitely clear coating or an ALR type deoxidizer, any type abrasives will cause UV failure.
Old video but clearcoat after wet sanding. Buffing them out makes them clear again. But will return hazy again after the polish is eventually washed off over time.
Clear coat is cool, but in my experience paint protection film like XPEL ultimate plus is the best option, lasts longer than 2K clear, and provides impact protection.
That’s Right. It’s been almost 5 years and mine’s still holding up good
@@shubhkarmansingh3984 a local shop here in the Los Angeles area that restores headlights uses XPEL ultimate plus for the protection, and they guarantee it for 10 years, they charge $180 for two headlights, full restoration, and application of the film, not a bad price.
@@STILLNIGHTPEARL Can you share a shop place? From LA as well.
People give me crap all the time, but I spend the 21.00 for the 3m kit when I need to do headlights, and get amazing results. 500grit, 800 grit, 3k grit (trizact), rubbing/polishing compound, and I get 2 yrs out of the clear lights. Prolly more if I used a UV resistant clear. Great video
Wait. After sanding, can you go straight to clear coat? Or you need the compound, polish and then clear coat? Which order would you go? Sand, compound, polish, clear? Or sand, clear and polish?
@@devinewski you have to get the old uv coating off. Then get rid of swirl marks.
@@devinewski Sand polish clearcoat job done, and never apply 2k if it's not written on the can don't use it!! Always use a certified clearcoat with added UV protection, It will last 1-2 year's may be longer depending on where you live and many other factors!!!
why not use ceramic coating on the one that you used a compound on ?
yo great video i have question about this or what im gonna do, im planning to normally wet sand it then two layer 2k clear coat(non uv because i cant find it anywhere) and after that applying Terlans's uv procted wax to protect yellowing. but im not sure about how it will look or even is it gonna work also after times can it still be non yellow because of wax?
aside from clear coat gun from this video. what product in "CAN" should i buy to substitute the spay gun (i don't have air compressor)? can any one mention a specific product that you've used?
Do you think that buffing technique will work to get scratches out of a motorcycle windshield.
The sanding scratches and the refraction index difference between polycarbonate and clear coat would diverge the light.
Love your video.. good job!
I did clear coat 2 years ago.. only now the coat started to crack/peel off..
So now im thinking of clear coat again.. but this time I'll be adding clear vinyl tint..
Do you think this is a good idea?
You can put a ceramic coating on the polished lens and it will be just as protected from the UV rays and weather as the clear coat.😊
What clear coat did you buy
Can you clear after buffing?
I had my headlights wet sanded and professionally buffed last year and the results were stunning. He didn't clear coat them, he said clear coats can fail and then require more work to get back to being better again. I noticed the other day that the lights were beginning to yellow a small amount so spoke to him who said a hand polish should bring them back again (which it has, pretty much). Should I apply something like a ceramic coating, would that help?
I'm no professional but make sure to wipe the headlights down then you can apply a ceramic coating or sealant after. This will help maintain the protection for even longer!
The problem is that clearcoat can change how light gets reflected outside of it, disrupting the light.
Nice,you should give these away to someone in needs that has no money.
I’m actually going to use these to test the durability of each finish, we will come back in a month of so and see the difference after leaving them outside in the elements
Nice@@BREW2LFOXBODY
Could you do both... I used a kit and they look great, but I know it's temporary...should I now apply a clear coat?
If you want to clear coat it you need to sand it again with something like 800 grit.
If it's already polished, clear coat won't stick well.
Buffing it out with cut does look better I think
If you aren't a professional your definitely ready for the test to get your "pro card"!
GearHead704 lol, I wish! Time to change your profile pic isn’t it? 🔥👍
@@BREW2LFOXBODY yes, several updates coming soon including profile 😉
clear coated on looks like it refracting the light ?
Great video, thanks for all the great tips!
Should have sent you mine lol
Did u sand prior to clearing?
Would you get rid of these. I have a guy in a bad spot and his mustang needs these. He’s a good guy would be cool to surprise him with them.
I’m actually going to do a follow up video comparing the two finishes in a month or so, see how each is holding up after being left out in the elements. Afterwards I may give them to someone.
You should of doing 600-800-1000-clear coat....
good video. I just picked up /k clear and will be doing a bunch of restorations. What grit should I use pre clear coat?
400 grit works well.
I ran 500/800 and turned out nice. I’m appt with results. I thought 800 would be high but turned out well.
Why not wetsanding, polishing and clear coat? Wouldn’t that be best of both world?
Why you don’t polish when you clear coat?
Is that the tekna clear coat gun...? Why didn't you use that on Andrew's car?
It’s actually the GTI PRO LITE but as you know it’s the same thing, this is the UK version. I’m using the 1.3mm and the T110 air cap. I just got it in a few days ago. Or would have definitely used it on his car.
my headlight is clear and no yellowing but at the top part of it, the clear coat is cracking and chipping away,should i sand it and take the clear coat out or just spray it directly with clear coat?
Wet sand it with 400 and clear it.
Could you buff and then apply clear coat afterwards to get the best of both worlds?
Typically I try to keep the grit as course as possible so the clear has a good surface to bond to, clear has no problems filling in 600 grit sanding scratches. Anything much past that doesn’t seem to matter very much in my experience as far as clarity goes.
facebook.com/Headlightfilmrecovery/
You need the scratches to help the clear stick to the plastic I try to keep it at 1000 grit before clear 🤘
No, serval1. Clear coat won't adhere to a buffed finish.
Best of both worlds is to apply the clear coat, THEN buff to a perfect finish. But:
1. Sand SMOOTH with 2000 before clear coat.
2. Allow clear coat 1/2 hour to dry between coats, overnight before buffing.
Overkill? Perhaps, but that's what worked for me.
I start with 400 grit sometimes 320 and finish with 1500 no more finer than that. No need to buff them out. Apply adhesive promoter and the spray automotive industry 2k clearcoat. I do this for a living since 2005. Go to Facebook Mobile Headlight Cleaning.
I know you got a lot on your plate and it's hard to make time, but we need more uploads man, a daily Brew2l fix would be nice,lol. In all seriousness though a podcast once a week would be awesome.
Thanks, I wish I could brother, I had to shoot two videos today because I’m so strapped for time. They other one will be out Friday if I get time to edit it.
BREW2L I understand man, this stuff will take all of your time if you let it. It's the reason why my 20's and most of my 30's felt like it only lasted 20min,lol.
I always put a coat of wax on my headlights I'm sure it helps to protect
That definitely helps!
Good vid. How long does the 2K clear last before it starts to blister using 600? Headlight heat seems to impact the plastic surface and cause blistering even when sanded with 600. I wonder if 400 would promote better adhesion. 1200 was too smooth.
No it's a old video but. In my opinion sense 2k clear is used to clearcoat a cars paint job. I would think it will last just as long as the clearcoat on a cars paint job does. That sets out in the heat all day long. The lens on headlights wont get hot enough to destroy the clearcoat. The chrome finish you see inside headlights along with the chrome piece in front of the headlight bulb. Is going to absorb the heat for the bulb and not the lens. If the bulb got the plastic lens hot enough to destroy the clearcoat. The heat from the bulb. Would also get hot enough to destroy, burn, or melt the inside of the plastic headlight lens as well.
Also the clearcoat will stick just fine to 1000 grit scratches without peeling or flaking off the lenses.
Can you buff it after you apply clear coat?
Absolutely
What was the final grit on the clear coated light?
800 grit.
If it's already polished, clear coat won't stick well.
I've clear coated the headlights of my wife's Renault Clio. It looks like 💩... Orange peal.... Yeap. I agree the clear coat delivers protection, but, it needs a skilled painter.👍🇵🇹
Headlight colour coating names
I would polish and then clear coat
Clearcoat changes how light passes out the lights. It breaks down, bubbles, and crazes over time. Adhesive film works better.
Or refer to this video for a coating that works well, tested by a trusted mechanic: ua-cam.com/video/E9NP0_nF2ak/v-deo.html
Chemical name
Clear coat. I usually use red scotch bright. It ain't perfection. HA
That works too 👌
Red light colour chemical name
How about ya clear coat then ya buff the clear coat 💁🏻♂️ there's the answere
Jesus christ, why isn`t people sanding in a circular motion anymore?
Da? Hand sanding is so time consuming. Good video, though.
I’m so confused… 🤯 I don’t understand the point of this video!! To restore a headlight you wet sand, buff then clear coat, it’s NOT one or the other 🤦♂️🤦♂️
Is it written on the 2k can for headlights??? Answer no its not its for car bodies!! By useing 2k clearcoat to polycarbonate headlights you have permanently damaged your headlights!!!😂
I’ll be honest, I’ve tried all the methods the only one that worked is giving the Lexus dealer 800.00 for new ones.
BTW...your voice and accent are d-lish-us
Buff then clean coat after you do all the proper procedures.
Don’t ever use 2K clear !!! Not for headlights!!! You ruined that clear coat you used!!!