As a novice woodworker I say thank God for shims, jigs, templates and clamps. Oh....and for guys like you who share these ideas so generously. This is a real good one.
Jigs are truly the best way to get into wood working... they may never be a "show off " project, but things like this are what allow you to accomplish WAY more with limited tools and are great practice projects when being started (not to mention the understanding of mechanics they instill). Very helpful!!
This is a cheap diy copy of the bow table saw fence. Better diy solutions exist as well. Using a 1030 t-track to keep the fence a fence (smooth vertical face) with the clamps working off the t-slots. If you wanted you could even mount mdf to it for a fence 10" tall if you wanted. And undermount supports to it for long boards. Both on the infeed and outfeed if you wish.
Wait!!! You can actually extend it farther as an infeed for longer boards by simply pulling your infeed toward you more and then clamping. This is fantastic! For those of us with contractor saws we can do infeed and outfeed both! Leaving the feed boards farther apart than the table top for flexability. As alway, inspirational!
I don't mind you talking to the camera at all. Your enthusiasm for this jigs is obvious, as well as your humility in knowing what a simple fix this is. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the idea! An aluminum strip edge could help keep it true over time. And for those of us with smaller portable table saws (eg Dewalt), a little outfeed support on the other end could be really useful for many cuts.
Really happy to see this! I’m a novice woodworker and I built one of these jigs a few months ago. I’ve wondered about it as none of my UA-cam woodworking buddies had recommended this jig. (That’s my term, none of my “buddies” have a clue who I am!). I’ve got a DeWalt jobsite table saw. The table is slightly larger than a postcard. No meaningful infeed or outfeed, no home-built surround… just the stock table. My jig is an extension for both infeed and outfeed. I glued together two MDF 1x4s as the auxiliary fence. I ripped a tiny slice off each edge to get rid of the rounded edges. I glued 1/8th inch hardboard, 4x12-inch for the infeed end and 4x18-inch for the outfeed end to the bottom edge of the MDF fence. Drilled three holes in the top edge of the MDF for three universal fence clamps and, that’s it! This is my most used table saw jig, love it! But… as a novice, and since none of my buddies had done this, I kept wondering if this was a bad idea… was I missing a safety issue, or what? Jodee, you just validated my jig, so thank you!
I had the same saw. Make sure you sand the miter slot to make it perfectly smooth. If you use Incra or other types of adjustable miter gauge, it'll make a world of difference. I liked the dewalt for adding rack and pinion fence that's sturdier than most saws in this class. I made a quick video on adjusting the Incra and sanding miter slot. But use a plywood+sandpaper after feeling for bumps along the miter slot.
@@hansangb Tamar at 3x3 says the same, sand off that coating on the miter slots. I haven't been brave enough to do that yet. But yes, the miter runners on my jig/sleds bind and stick a lot. And running my finger along the edges of the miter slot, the coating is obviously lumpy. But since the table is aluminum, I'm afraid I'm going to damage the miter slot with the sandpaper. edit: Found your video. Good info. And I love that you're using a paper cutter. My lever arm paper cutter is my go-to tool for making thin shims (paper!). Thanks!
Great idea incorporating the outfeed. I'm working in a small space and have to keep the saw against a wall and roll it out for everything, so I'll be sure to include an outfeed in my build.
@@brianpaasch2665 The table is aluminum, not cardboard. Don't go hog wild on the sanding. A couple of passes with the sandpaper and try it. Still rough, couple more passes and try it. IMHO
Brian - I have the Dewalt job site saw. I bought an Incra miter gauge. I pressed some 220 sandpaper against one side of the slot with an 8 inch straight piece of wood (I had some hardwood flooring). I ran it one time on each side. Then ran gauge through to locate high spots. Removed very small amount and tested again. Incra gauge is adjustable but has min and max widths so take your time when sanding.
Thus us a good idea for boards from 4 to 6 feet, but for longer boards I had an infeed table on wheels. One can use saw horses with a table top, which of course would correspond to the height of the table saw. As a professional woodworker and instructor it's always best to take the time to fabricate jigs or set ups for safety and of course the end result is greater accuracy. I'm 78 and it does my heart good to see so many people enjoying the art of woodworking.
The main purpose for this is for giving LONG boards infeed stability and extending the outfeed fence as well. This is a great idea since it can be removed and installed in a flash... If the boards are not too wide you can use it with a feather board if needed. Thank you!!
Nice idea, well executed. I use a roller stand at the infeed (and outfeed) for long boards, and a feather board to keep the work registered against the fence. As the cutoff gets wider (no feather board) I can move more around the left side and push right while also pushing forward. But it’s always nice to have more infeed fence, so good work.
@@gregwyatt6534 If your roller stand is one roller this is true. If your roller stand is a bar with multiple "bearing" type rollers no problem and far less friction. Look at the tables used for CNC style saws
Izzy Swan came up with in infield table extender a while back, but I very much prefer this. The extension of the fence should help a lot. I guess a feather board could be added depending on the width of the stock too. I have some scrap plywood that I am going to use for this jig. Thanks!
Yes I agree. This is a great jig. So simple in design and concept, that I wonder why no one has come up with this idea before. I joked around that it should be "patented". Ha Ha.
You could also attach a couple of feather boards to your infeed table to make the wood stay down on the infeed. That's one less variable you have to deal with. Of course you could attach the feather boards to your regular fence as well when you don't need the infeed board. For a narrow board like the one in your demo, you could also use feather boards on the saw table. That takes care of all the variables except feeding the board through the saw blade. You would only need the infeed table for very long boards if at all. Wood workers have been using feather boards pretty much since the invention of the table saw.
Yep, feather boards for me, too! Plus one infeed and one outfeed roller stand for eliminating the horizontal wobble. Not saying this is a bad solution but mine is much more universal for more machines, eg. a router table, thicknesser, etc.
I made one about 2 years ago. Added turned legs for kitchen cabinets. Cut 1/4 of leg out to sit into corners. Cut 10 legs perfect. Held from to legs as I cut and being turned legs. Made it safe. Glad to see you do it. I feel better now.
I made mine with a laminated pc of plywood 14” wide x12” deep for the extended table and the fence gives me 42” of fence support in front of the blade. I rip a lot of 8/4 walnut in lengths up to 75”. The larger table support and longer fence make the process simple and easy. Great auxiliary pc to have.
Smart idea. I've made several crappy, quick and dirty temporary infeed tables that attach to the fence rail when I had extra long stock to rip. They were always fussy and ended up getting torn down and repurposed once the job was done. Yours would be worth taking some extra time to make carefully to last and I think I will. Not going to make it today, but I've noted this video on my shop's chalkboard and the next time I need to make long runs of custom baseboards I'm going to whip one of these up. I immediately started thinking of ways to make it "better" but really, you've trimmed this down to it's essential function to create a shop appliance that is simple and easy to build. Well done and well explained. Thank you.
Brilliant! You have addressed a common problem with elegance. A great solution for small portable job site saws that have that problem to an even greater extent than stationery shop saws.
Wow. What a difference this jig makes! I have a small job site saw and infeed stability has always been an issue. Just taking a small board on the bottom of a fence extension made a huge difference. Thanks for putting this out there.
Ok this is one option another is an adjustable saw horse that is used on the infead side of the saw to support the material. If used properly it will easily support a full sheet of plywood. I use mine on both a sliding table saw and an old delta unisaw. By making it height adjustable you can use it for support on more the one machine. Shaper bandsaw you name it.
Great tip, thanks. I probably missed it in the comments, but, add a piece on the out-feed side similar to the in-feed side to create a mini out-feed table.
I made my infeed support using your great idea. I love it. It was super easy to make and it has given me the confidence to cut longer pieces. Thank you. I did one thing different with the material that I had on hand. By a stroke of luck I used a piece of white vinyl shelf board on the bottom of the L-shaped support. The white board creates an eye-opening contrast between it, the white shelf board, and the board I'm trying to straighten. Each time I run it through the blade I reference the bad board to the white shelf material before making another pass through the saw. This has improved my work. Thank you.
Yes! The in-feed side is where I need the support. I have a contractor saw and adding in-feed support & auxiliary fence was one of the first things I did. I went whole hog with a quasi-permanent attachment, but this would work great too.
Finally I got around to making mine, and a buddy gave me a stack of scrap UHMW. So I used a pc of it for the input shelf. So grateful for your wood working tips! Thank you sir!!!
Brilliance in its simplicity and functionality! Solves an issue that all table saw users have experienced and pretty much accepted or assumed as just being the nature of the beast. Definitely one of those ah-ha... so simple, why didn't I think of that moments.
Great idea for extending the fence side and table surface. A simple design which is the hallmark of a good jig. I'll be adding one of these to my standard jigs.
Great stuff. In addition to helping with the infeed side of things, this jig likely keeps longer rips straighter. I have always had trouble keeping real long rips super straight, which is critical for many builds.
I like the ICS model for the extra infeed on table top, but the price goes up tremendously. This is a good simple jig. I put a extrusion on my jobsite saw with an infeed attached to the bottom of the extrusion that glides with fence.
I added an aluminum profile (called i-type here in europe) with bolts and star screws to my fence. I attached an aluminum plate under the profile, same way as your infeed support. I now can pull out or push in the additional fence and have a support on the infeed side. It´s almost the same technique as yours except for the material and the option to push or pull it easily in and out. It´s all the time on my fence except I use a jig on it. Because the profile has tracks I can add featherboards and other stuff on it.
Thank you for this video great inspiration I have a small contractor saw on a rolling stand I made so built a copy of your extension which works perfect. Only change I made was to add outfeed shelf to other end since my saw is mobile and didn't have any permanent infeed or outfeed.
I've got a few years, about 25 or so...and one never stops learning. Especially a "How Did I Not Think of this...." Thanks for the share. I got one the other day, if you use a bottle of a little bit of soapy water, to spritz your gas joints to look for leaks by the bubbles, you can use that also to moisten your calking, and your finger will slip n slide over it to smooth it out like glass. it was a "No one said that....?" Have a good day!!
Brilliant thanks. I tried making one of these that clamps to the fence rail, but it was not so easy or reliable on a Bosch jobsite saw. Clamping directly to the fence is a whole lot easier, so I will be making one for sure.
Excellent demonstration of an extremely easy to build and implement table saw jig. Alas, I don't have a ton of ash kicking about my garage, so it will be 19 mm plywood. Thanks for sharing!👍
OUTSTANDING!! I've cogitated for years on how to build something like this, but something I used so rarely, I struggled through, making as accurate cut as I could. I may never use it, but I see one of these in my Immediate future! Thank you... In the process, you've earned my subscription. Let's see what other secrets I can garner from your efforts....
You will most certainly learn much by going back and watching previous videos. It's also fun to see his progression as he becomes more comfortable in front of the camera. I've followed for a very long time and never so much as one minute of regret for wasting time.
I have some feed stands that tilt and go level when you feed in or out depending on what you need. Been hauling those things around for over 20 years, I've looked for new ones but now all you find is rollers that are 8 to 10 inches wide. These are about 18 inches wide with a hard plastic slick top. I'll still use them for out feed but I gotta make this for sure, great idea! Thanks.
I really appreciate your info. I'm just a beginner but I still use a bunch of your tips. Even if it seems simple to you, it never hurts to get instruction on how you built it.
Great idea. This, in combo with my collapsible roller stand, is all I'll need for in-feed of long boards. I also move my 2x6' workbench over a couple feet to supply something to rest the workpiece on before the cut... just to make it easy on my arms. It sits just to the right of the saw on the in-feed side.
have a tiny wooden platform 12x20ish on my little bandsaw. i was thinking either a pivoting or sliding section underneath. perhaps having some 2020 extrusion slide out with a small rest on the end for the wood. if i add one to the fence too it could be fairly rigid.
Good idea . Also if you was to make another one to go on the left side to hold pressure to hold your wood tight to your fence but it can not be in front of your blade . Well not really pressure to your fence just to hold wood to your fence . That way all you have to do push your wood an the reason you can not go past your blade is it will try to move your cut board to the right.
Good idea. I had to rip some 5/4 x 10" x 10' maple. Heavy boards! I used 3 roller stands for the infeed. That way I could line up the board and stand close enough to the saw to guide it against the fence. This would have helped on that project.
I have 2 portable stands with a wide ball bearing roller on each that I use to support my infeed. Now I don't have to worry about the vertical movement. This allows me to stand to the side nearer the blade and easily guide the wood along the fence. This even works with full size sheets. These roller stands can be used other places when needed as well.
I know it will be heavy but as I don't use a outfeed table I think I'll weld one up out of 16th inch square metal tubing and have a infeed and outfeed removable extension. Thanks for sharing!
Food for thought. You have a good idea but may i offer some things to think about. I have a custom furniture design and build business and have 45 years of experiences. I understand where you are coming from. 1. The fence really does not need to extend past the back of the blade. If the board is case hardened and bows after being cut it will /can push against the fence and possibly cause the work to feed at an angle. To prevent this many European saws have fences that can be positioned so that the end extends just past the back of the blade. 2. I would make the whole jig out of Baltic Birch. It is dimencially stable and all ply’s are hard wood. Wax the edge. 3. If I am ripping long boards I simply use a couple of feather boards to keep the work against the fence, both in front of the blade. I can be In the middle of a 10 foot long board and still only be 5 feet from the front of the blade. The feather boards insure that the work is against the fence.
Cool video! I made one of these a couple of months ago for my little 20 year old Craftsman jobsite saw. (Someday maybe I'll get something bigger...) Anyway, I used a 6 foot length of 1"x4", fence clamped it to my fence and screwed support pieces under it before and after, so it is an infeed AND outfeed support. It works great when I'm trying to knock the round-over off of 2"x4"s. I even used it to break down a partial sheet of plywood. It's definitely something to try. Just make sure the fence board is super straight so it is a good reference. As far as being able to use the measuring guide, it was never accurate - neither was the fence, so this actually helps to get my fence to register parallel to the blade quicker... Who knew? Thanks again! 🦊👍
My fence is a protruded t-track aluminum. I've had the idea to get a longer ~8 foot extruded aluminum that i could clamp on to give a longer fence, or at least input fence support further back. I think you just convinced me that i'm right and should get it. thanks!
What a fantastic idea. I'm wondering if instead of wood for the piece against the fence, about using a wide piece of angle iron and bolt the infeed flat piece to that, you'd never have to replace it really. Thanks for the idea.
Just finished building myself one of these using various pieces of scrap ply. I haven't actually put it to use as yet but preliminary testing shows that it will be a valuable addition to the shop. So that the edge won't wear over time I've added a piece of aluminium angle. Thanks for sharing a simple but brilliant idea to make life easier and safer.
I just discovered your channel and have enjoy every video I've watched so far. You are an excellent instructor and hope that you'll resume uploading videos again soon.
I just built an infeed extension with some matchfit clamps. Super helpful. And nice to be able to use it on the left side with a miter gauge. But this is a great option for a quick fix. Nice work
I'm sure with 173 comments already someone else has already said this but for those of us who don't already have a 24" outfeed table already attached to our saw you could add a piece on the outfeed side to also help support the work after the saw blade. Nice short good idea.
I've done similar with a lead in extension. Wondered why no one else seemed to have done this. Mine doesn't have the horizontal piece though so thank you for the idea.
For years I have used an aluminum 6 foot I-beam level that I temporarily clamp to my table saw fence to provide in-feed lateral support for ripping those long boards. Lateral control is the key to accurate cuts.
If you're worried about the board moving while you're pushing it through the cut, use some featherboards, either with or without this jig. They not only stabilize the board through the cut, they also help control kickback. The ones from Bow Products are excellent.
@jack5402 I do use feathers from time to time. I actually have the Bow versions and I highly recommend them. Unfortunately feather boards don’t work very well with anything tapered, like a lot of S3S stock. That’s actually how this contraption came to life.
Wow is my first thought. I am a retired general contractor and been using a table saw for 55 years and have never thought of this. I have always fought keeping the board on the in feed side square to the fence. This will be on my to do list. Thanks for the awesome idea.
I just got the new 2023 Tay Tools extended, tall 46” aluminum fence for my saw. It works great and clamps onto the existing fence like your design. It has tracks for feather boards and the feed support is highly adjustable.
Nice jig! I finally stepped up and got the JessEm Stock Guides, and they do this for me. Their rollers pull the stock tight to the fence, and push it down to the table. And they are attached to the fence, so they are always available. However, your solution does offer more vertical support, which is nice. If I didn't have the JessEm Stock Guides, I'd make your jig.
A very clever jig! Makes me wish I had seen this sooner. You don’t mention separate in-feed support. I have a 3-roller in-feed/out-feed support stand that is height adjustable. Great for ripping a 4x8 sheet of plywood length-wise. I also use it as out-feed support when running long stock through my planer. Some situations are going to be too great a challenge for your jig; that said, I’ll be copying you design for smaller stuff. Many thanks!!
You can add a couple of feather boards to help hold the material DOWN on the table or a solid piece if the sled base is the same thickness as the material being cut.
i just use rollers, sometimes I have a 12 to 20 foot length of teak or something so the roller setup is fantastic to guide and stop that up and down, for side to side i just have a system that clamps onto the fence and over the board to hold it tight to the fence.
Terrific safe idea to help control infeed of long stock! You rate a Cheeseburger. One addition is to create a vertical pressure finger to mount on the thin base to secure the stock to the metal surface eliminating one control issue. A lateral feather board would allow complete infeed control. Keep on innovating!
I love your videos, You always have practical simple solutions to common woodworking problems. I love your box joint jig and going to make a shooting board based on your design after I failed on a more complex design.
This is a valid and valuable video. For myself I think I would make the auxiliary fence thicker, drill holes in the top and use the holes with clamps so you have a clean fence to run against. Get rid of the horizontal piece and use the thick fence to beef up the tail fin connection. With this setup you could also use a dado blade
Yup! I had to do something like this when I was breaking down some very long 8/4 ash that was 10” wide. Plank probably weighed like 80-100 lbs. I have great outfeed support, but had no infeed support to handle that job by myself. And my table saw is a basic 10” Dewalt, which has a short infeed to behind with.
Good idea. To build on your idea, if you make one long enough, you make an in-feed portion and an out-feed portion that saddles your table saw. Obviously this can be over done. But if kept within reason...
As a novice woodworker I say thank God for shims, jigs, templates and clamps. Oh....and for guys like you who share these ideas so generously. This is a real good one.
Jigs are truly the best way to get into wood working... they may never be a "show off " project, but things like this are what allow you to accomplish WAY more with limited tools and are great practice projects when being started (not to mention the understanding of mechanics they instill).
Very helpful!!
This is a cheap diy copy of the bow table saw fence.
Better diy solutions exist as well. Using a 1030 t-track to keep the fence a fence (smooth vertical face) with the clamps working off the t-slots. If you wanted you could even mount mdf to it for a fence 10" tall if you wanted. And undermount supports to it for long boards. Both on the infeed and outfeed if you wish.
Wait!!! You can actually extend it farther as an infeed for longer boards by simply pulling your infeed toward you more and then clamping. This is fantastic! For those of us with contractor saws we can do infeed and outfeed both! Leaving the feed boards farther apart than the table top for flexability. As alway, inspirational!
In fact, I am going to go make this right now. 🔨🪚🗜
That was my thought also. As long as its tight down to the table and fence it can hang off the table 3 feet or more? It's a great addition.
Yep just make sure the saw is fixed in place well. If it’s free standing, introducing a longer lever arm can make it easier to tip over 🤓👍🏻
Good idea. One tool, two good and necessary functions.
Could even add an out feed piece too for smaller jobsite saw I guess. But I got skills, so I just cut it as is
Two feather boards work well too .
i read this father beards even tho i knew it's what u wrote
His simple gig is more versatile!
Feather boards are good for thin boards but are not for cutting wide sheets like plywood.
Jodi you just taught many less experienced woodworkers how to have a safer day in our hobby shop. Thanks Buddy
I don't mind you talking to the camera at all. Your enthusiasm for this jigs is obvious, as well as your humility in knowing what a simple fix this is. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the idea! An aluminum strip edge could help keep it true over time. And for those of us with smaller portable table saws (eg Dewalt), a little outfeed support on the other end could be really useful for many cuts.
100%. That's what I got
An absolute obvious fix that most of us overlook and continually struggle with. Great job creating this, it's awesome!
Really happy to see this! I’m a novice woodworker and I built one of these jigs a few months ago. I’ve wondered about it as none of my UA-cam woodworking buddies had recommended this jig. (That’s my term, none of my “buddies” have a clue who I am!). I’ve got a DeWalt jobsite table saw. The table is slightly larger than a postcard. No meaningful infeed or outfeed, no home-built surround… just the stock table. My jig is an extension for both infeed and outfeed. I glued together two MDF 1x4s as the auxiliary fence. I ripped a tiny slice off each edge to get rid of the rounded edges. I glued 1/8th inch hardboard, 4x12-inch for the infeed end and 4x18-inch for the outfeed end to the bottom edge of the MDF fence. Drilled three holes in the top edge of the MDF for three universal fence clamps and, that’s it! This is my most used table saw jig, love it! But… as a novice, and since none of my buddies had done this, I kept wondering if this was a bad idea… was I missing a safety issue, or what? Jodee, you just validated my jig, so thank you!
I had the same saw. Make sure you sand the miter slot to make it perfectly smooth. If you use Incra or other types of adjustable miter gauge, it'll make a world of difference. I liked the dewalt for adding rack and pinion fence that's sturdier than most saws in this class. I made a quick video on adjusting the Incra and sanding miter slot. But use a plywood+sandpaper after feeling for bumps along the miter slot.
@@hansangb Tamar at 3x3 says the same, sand off that coating on the miter slots. I haven't been brave enough to do that yet. But yes, the miter runners on my jig/sleds bind and stick a lot. And running my finger along the edges of the miter slot, the coating is obviously lumpy. But since the table is aluminum, I'm afraid I'm going to damage the miter slot with the sandpaper.
edit: Found your video. Good info. And I love that you're using a paper cutter. My lever arm paper cutter is my go-to tool for making thin shims (paper!). Thanks!
Great idea incorporating the outfeed. I'm working in a small space and have to keep the saw against a wall and roll it out for everything, so I'll be sure to include an outfeed in my build.
@@brianpaasch2665 The table is aluminum, not cardboard. Don't go hog wild on the sanding. A couple of passes with the sandpaper and try it. Still rough, couple more passes and try it. IMHO
Brian - I have the Dewalt job site saw. I bought an Incra miter gauge. I pressed some 220 sandpaper against one side of the slot with an 8 inch straight piece of wood (I had some hardwood flooring). I ran it one time on each side. Then ran gauge through to locate high spots. Removed very small amount and tested again. Incra gauge is adjustable but has min and max widths so take your time when sanding.
Bro. Such a great idea! Thank you! I don’t mind the talking to the camera. You’re a great teacher. A+ thumbnail and title. 🤜💥🤛
Check out the bow table saw fence. Consider a diy solution using 1030 t-track as an upgrade.
Thus us a good idea for boards from 4 to 6 feet, but for longer boards I had an infeed table on wheels. One can use saw horses with a table top, which of course would correspond to the height of the table saw. As a professional woodworker and instructor it's always best to take the time to fabricate jigs or set ups for safety and of course the end result is greater accuracy. I'm 78 and it does my heart good to see so many people enjoying the art of woodworking.
The main purpose for this is for giving LONG boards infeed stability and extending the outfeed fence as well. This is a great idea since it can be removed and installed in a flash... If the boards are not too wide you can use it with a feather board if needed. Thank you!!
Thank You... I just made this yesterday Oct 3, I found by waxing the surfaces that wood to be cut touches, I had a smooth cut. No dragging.
Nice idea, well executed.
I use a roller stand at the infeed (and outfeed) for long boards, and a feather board to keep the work registered against the fence. As the cutoff gets wider (no feather board) I can move more around the left side and push right while also pushing forward. But it’s always nice to have more infeed fence, so good work.
Great idea.
The one problem with roller stands is that if the roller is not exactly 90° to the blade, it will push the timber/lumber sideways a little.
@@gregwyatt6534 If your roller stand is one roller this is true. If your roller stand is a bar with multiple "bearing" type rollers no problem and far less friction.
Look at the tables used for CNC style saws
@@michaelwalser9497 correct
Izzy Swan came up with in infield table extender a while back, but I very much prefer this. The extension of the fence should help a lot. I guess a feather board could be added depending on the width of the stock too. I have some scrap plywood that I am going to use for this jig. Thanks!
I have the Izzy. Smaller and also has a slot. Helps a ton with sled management. I do 8 footers and that is what I need to control.
@@kenreynolds1000 good point about the sled slots with Izzy’s.
Yes I agree. This is a great jig. So simple in design and concept, that I wonder why no one has come up with this idea before. I joked around that it should be "patented". Ha Ha.
You could also attach a couple of feather boards to your infeed table to make the wood stay down on the infeed. That's one less variable you have to deal with. Of course you could attach the feather boards to your regular fence as well when you don't need the infeed board. For a narrow board like the one in your demo, you could also use feather boards on the saw table. That takes care of all the variables except feeding the board through the saw blade. You would only need the infeed table for very long boards if at all. Wood workers have been using feather boards pretty much since the invention of the table saw.
Yep, feather boards for me, too! Plus one infeed and one outfeed roller stand for eliminating the horizontal wobble. Not saying this is a bad solution but mine is much more universal for more machines, eg. a router table, thicknesser, etc.
I made one about 2 years ago. Added turned legs for kitchen cabinets. Cut 1/4 of leg out to sit into corners. Cut 10 legs perfect. Held from to legs as I cut and being turned legs. Made it safe. Glad to see you do it. I feel better now.
I made mine with a laminated pc of plywood 14” wide x12” deep for the extended table and the fence gives me 42” of fence support in front of the blade. I rip a lot of 8/4 walnut in lengths up to 75”. The larger table support and longer fence make the process simple and easy. Great auxiliary pc to have.
Smart idea. I've made several crappy, quick and dirty temporary infeed tables that attach to the fence rail when I had extra long stock to rip. They were always fussy and ended up getting torn down and repurposed once the job was done. Yours would be worth taking some extra time to make carefully to last and I think I will. Not going to make it today, but I've noted this video on my shop's chalkboard and the next time I need to make long runs of custom baseboards I'm going to whip one of these up. I immediately started thinking of ways to make it "better" but really, you've trimmed this down to it's essential function to create a shop appliance that is simple and easy to build. Well done and well explained. Thank you.
I'm not an experienced woodworker and I appreciate your advice...I'm building one of these.
Brilliant! You have addressed a common problem with elegance. A great solution for small portable job site saws that have that problem to an even greater extent than stationery shop saws.
Wow. What a difference this jig makes! I have a small job site saw and infeed stability has always been an issue. Just taking a small board on the bottom of a fence extension made a huge difference. Thanks for putting this out there.
Ok this is one option another is an adjustable saw horse that is used on the infead side of the saw to support the material. If used properly it will easily support a full sheet of plywood. I use mine on both a sliding table saw and an old delta unisaw. By making it height adjustable you can use it for support on more the one machine. Shaper bandsaw you name it.
Great tip, thanks. I probably missed it in the comments, but, add a piece on the out-feed side similar to the in-feed side to create a mini out-feed table.
EXCELLENT Idea! It was right in front of us the whole time . Thanks again!
Best tip I've seen in a while. Thank you for respecting our time (and intelligence) by omitting the build. Subscribed.
I made my infeed support using your great idea. I love it. It was super easy to make and it has given me the confidence to cut longer pieces. Thank you. I did one thing different with the material that I had on hand. By a stroke of luck I used a piece of white vinyl shelf board on the bottom of the L-shaped support. The white board creates an eye-opening contrast between it, the white shelf board, and the board I'm trying to straighten. Each time I run it through the blade I reference the bad board to the white shelf material before making another pass through the saw. This has improved my work. Thank you.
Thanks for another straightforward and useful solution to a common problem. You frequently come up with "why didn't I think of that" helpful jigs.
Built that tool 20 years ago for my dads 1950 Craftsman saw. . .he loved it. . . Smart your able to use your scale +3 inches, that impressed me. NICE
Incredibly useful idea, and really extremely well explained. This is the kind of guy I like watching on UA-cam: experienced and no-nonsense.
Yes! The in-feed side is where I need the support. I have a contractor saw and adding in-feed support & auxiliary fence was one of the first things I did. I went whole hog with a quasi-permanent attachment, but this would work great too.
Finally I got around to making mine, and a buddy gave me a stack of scrap UHMW. So I used a pc of it for the input shelf.
So grateful for your wood working tips! Thank you sir!!!
Brilliance in its simplicity and functionality! Solves an issue that all table saw users have experienced and pretty much accepted or assumed as just being the nature of the beast. Definitely one of those ah-ha... so simple, why didn't I think of that moments.
Great idea for extending the fence side and table surface. A simple design which is the hallmark of a good jig. I'll be adding one of these to my standard jigs.
Love the idea! I’m going to make one today. Thx for sharing.
Nice, simple idea! I will join the chorus and highly recommend you use a feather board
Great stuff. In addition to helping with the infeed side of things, this jig likely keeps longer rips straighter. I have always had trouble keeping real long rips super straight, which is critical for many builds.
I like the ICS model for the extra infeed on table top, but the price goes up tremendously. This is a good simple jig. I put a extrusion on my jobsite saw with an infeed attached to the bottom of the extrusion that glides with fence.
Thank you for sharing this. I am an experienced woodworker and this will be an awesome addition to my shop.
I added an aluminum profile (called i-type here in europe) with bolts and star screws to my fence. I attached an aluminum plate under the profile, same way as your infeed support. I now can pull out or push in the additional fence and have a support on the infeed side. It´s almost the same technique as yours except for the material and the option to push or pull it easily in and out. It´s all the time on my fence except I use a jig on it. Because the profile has tracks I can add featherboards and other stuff on it.
Thank you for this video great inspiration I have a small contractor saw on a rolling stand I made so built a copy of your extension which works perfect. Only change I made was to add outfeed shelf to other end since my saw is mobile and didn't have any permanent infeed or outfeed.
I've got a few years, about 25 or so...and one never stops learning. Especially a "How Did I Not Think of this...." Thanks for the share. I got one the other day, if you use a bottle of a little bit of soapy water, to spritz your gas joints to look for leaks by the bubbles, you can use that also to moisten your calking, and your finger will slip n slide over it to smooth it out like glass. it was a "No one said that....?" Have a good day!!
Brilliant thanks. I tried making one of these that clamps to the fence rail, but it was not so easy or reliable on a Bosch jobsite saw. Clamping directly to the fence is a whole lot easier, so I will be making one for sure.
Try doing it with a sheet of 3/4 ply or mdf. You need a feed table always if you work alonr
Horizontal and vertical stability can both be improved with featherboards. I also use a roller stand on the infeed side to help.
I am glad there are creative woodworkers like you who can think in 3 dimensions!
Excellent demonstration of an extremely easy to build and implement table saw jig. Alas, I don't have a ton of ash kicking about my garage, so it will be 19 mm plywood.
Thanks for sharing!👍
I always used a roller stand when I needed additional infeed support, which was sketchy. Your solution is stupid simple, and not sketchy. THANKS!
OUTSTANDING!! I've cogitated for years on how to build something like this, but something I used so rarely, I struggled through, making as accurate cut as I could. I may never use it, but I see one of these in my Immediate future! Thank you... In the process, you've earned my subscription. Let's see what other secrets I can garner from your efforts....
You will most certainly learn much by going back and watching previous videos. It's also fun to see his progression as he becomes more comfortable in front of the camera. I've followed for a very long time and never so much as one minute of regret for wasting time.
I have some feed stands that tilt and go level when you feed in or out depending on what you need. Been hauling those things around for over 20 years, I've looked for new ones but now all you find is rollers that are 8 to 10 inches wide. These are about 18 inches wide with a hard plastic slick top. I'll still use them for out feed but I gotta make this for sure, great idea! Thanks.
I really appreciate your info. I'm just a beginner but I still use a bunch of your tips. Even if it seems simple to you, it never hurts to get instruction on how you built it.
Hey... I don't mind you just talking... this is brilliantly simple - I am so crap at feeding things into my little DeWalt saw - thank you very much!
I love your casual, matter-of-fact approach in your videos.
I like the simplicity of the design. Thanks for sharing.
it s brilliant !!!!!!!!!!!!!
no more problems with long boards and arms that are too small!!
thanks.
I've been operating table saws for over 40 years & this has to be one of the coolest jigs I've seen My TS gets one today. Thanks
Made it... Used it this morning cutting Teak panels... Worked great!! Thank you for sharing!!
Great idea. This, in combo with my collapsible roller stand, is all I'll need for in-feed of long boards. I also move my 2x6' workbench over a couple feet to supply something to rest the workpiece on before the cut... just to make it easy on my arms. It sits just to the right of the saw on the in-feed side.
I know Izzy Swan made one that attaches to the front rail only. But your jig is simpler and has more capacity for support. NICE!
have a tiny wooden platform 12x20ish on my little bandsaw. i was thinking either a pivoting or sliding section underneath. perhaps having some 2020 extrusion slide out with a small rest on the end for the wood.
if i add one to the fence too it could be fairly rigid.
Good idea . Also if you was to make another one to go on the left side to hold pressure to hold your wood tight to your fence but it can not be in front of your blade . Well not really pressure to your fence just to hold wood to your fence . That way all you have to do push your wood an the reason you can not go past your blade is it will try to move your cut board to the right.
Good idea. I had to rip some 5/4 x 10" x 10' maple. Heavy boards! I used 3 roller stands for the infeed. That way I could line up the board and stand close enough to the saw to guide it against the fence. This would have helped on that project.
I have 2 portable stands with a wide ball bearing roller on each that I use to support my infeed. Now I don't have to worry about the vertical movement. This allows me to stand to the side nearer the blade and easily guide the wood along the fence. This even works with full size sheets. These roller stands can be used other places when needed as well.
I made an infeed table 2’ wide 4’ long. It especially works great when I need to cross cut sheet goods.
I know it will be heavy but as I don't use a outfeed table I think I'll weld one up out of 16th inch square metal tubing and have a infeed and outfeed removable extension. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Jodi for this simple effective idea I will use!
Simple and elegant solution. You can use a feather board to keep the feed board against the fence, and you’ve got the longer base. Thanks!
I did this a few weeks ago when I had to cut 23 sheets of 1/2” MDF into strips. I also have infeed and outfeed tables.
Some of the best solutions are the simple ones - nicely done!!
Food for thought. You have a good idea but may i offer some things to think about. I have a custom furniture design and build business and have 45 years of experiences. I understand where you are coming from. 1. The fence really does not need to extend past the back of the blade. If the board is case hardened and bows after being cut it will /can push against the fence and possibly cause the work to feed at an angle. To prevent this many European saws have fences that can be positioned so that the end extends just past the back of the blade. 2. I would make the whole jig out of Baltic Birch. It is dimencially stable and all ply’s are hard wood. Wax the edge. 3. If I am ripping long boards I simply use a couple of feather boards to keep the work against the fence, both in front of the blade. I can be In the middle of a 10 foot long board and still only be 5 feet from the front of the blade. The feather boards insure that the work is against the fence.
Cool video! I made one of these a couple of months ago for my little 20 year old Craftsman jobsite saw. (Someday maybe I'll get something bigger...)
Anyway, I used a 6 foot length of 1"x4", fence clamped it to my fence and screwed support pieces under it before and after, so it is an infeed AND outfeed support. It works great when I'm trying to knock the round-over off of 2"x4"s. I even used it to break down a partial sheet of plywood.
It's definitely something to try. Just make sure the fence board is super straight so it is a good reference.
As far as being able to use the measuring guide, it was never accurate - neither was the fence, so this actually helps to get my fence to register parallel to the blade quicker... Who knew?
Thanks again!
🦊👍
I was thinking the same thing
Very smart. You could also add another horizintal piece to support the outfeed side if you don't have a dedicated outfeed table.
My fence is a protruded t-track aluminum. I've had the idea to get a longer ~8 foot extruded aluminum that i could clamp on to give a longer fence, or at least input fence support further back. I think you just convinced me that i'm right and should get it. thanks!
What a fantastic idea. I'm wondering if instead of wood for the piece against the fence, about using a wide piece of angle iron and bolt the infeed flat piece to that, you'd never have to replace it really. Thanks for the idea.
Just finished building myself one of these using various pieces of scrap ply. I haven't actually put it to use as yet but preliminary testing shows that it will be a valuable addition to the shop. So that the edge won't wear over time I've added a piece of aluminium angle. Thanks for sharing a simple but brilliant idea to make life easier and safer.
The aluminium angle is a great idea.
I just discovered your channel and have enjoy every video I've watched so far. You are an excellent instructor and hope that you'll resume uploading videos again soon.
Such an awesome jig! This solves my problem for my Dewalt 745! Thanks so much for this!
I just built an infeed extension with some matchfit clamps. Super helpful. And nice to be able to use it on the left side with a miter gauge.
But this is a great option for a quick fix. Nice work
I'm sure with 173 comments already someone else has already said this but for those of us who don't already have a 24" outfeed table already attached to our saw you could add a piece on the outfeed side to also help support the work after the saw blade. Nice short good idea.
Great idea... I'll definitely be making one and using this jig myself. Love your videos and find them very educational😀
Yes. Simple yet inspirational. And comments ideas makes sense too.
Thank you for sharing
I've done similar with a lead in extension. Wondered why no one else seemed to have done this. Mine doesn't have the horizontal piece though so thank you for the idea.
great idea. I've done a fence extension but never thought to incorporate infeed support!
For years I have used an aluminum 6 foot I-beam level that I temporarily clamp to my table saw fence to provide in-feed lateral support for ripping those long boards. Lateral control is the key to accurate cuts.
If you're worried about the board moving while you're pushing it through the cut, use some featherboards, either with or without this jig. They not only stabilize the board through the cut, they also help control kickback. The ones from Bow Products are excellent.
@jack5402 I do use feathers from time to time. I actually have the Bow versions and I highly recommend them. Unfortunately feather boards don’t work very well with anything tapered, like a lot of S3S stock. That’s actually how this contraption came to life.
Great upgrade to a somewhat tricky situation. Thx!
Wow is my first thought. I am a retired general contractor and been using a table saw for 55 years and have never thought of this. I have always fought keeping the board on the in feed side square to the fence. This will be on my to do list. Thanks for the awesome idea.
Great idea. I built a fence extension before to deal with the issue of alignment. Never figured out a way to deal the a table extension. Thanks.
I just picked up another great trick! This is a really good one. Thanks man!
I just got the new 2023 Tay Tools extended, tall 46” aluminum fence for my saw. It works great and clamps onto the existing fence like your design. It has tracks for feather boards and the feed support is highly adjustable.
Nice jig! I finally stepped up and got the JessEm Stock Guides, and they do this for me. Their rollers pull the stock tight to the fence, and push it down to the table. And they are attached to the fence, so they are always available. However, your solution does offer more vertical support, which is nice. If I didn't have the JessEm Stock Guides, I'd make your jig.
A very clever jig! Makes me wish I had seen this sooner. You don’t mention separate in-feed support. I have a 3-roller in-feed/out-feed support stand that is height adjustable. Great for ripping a 4x8 sheet of plywood length-wise. I also use it as out-feed support when running long stock through my planer. Some situations are going to be too great a challenge for your jig; that said, I’ll be copying you design for smaller stuff. Many thanks!!
I have something very similar made using a seven foot metal straight edge, works wonders straightening crooked stock.
just use your workbench to support the infeed, plus don't forget your TS guard and splitter
You can add a couple of feather boards to help hold the material DOWN on the table or a solid piece if the sled base is the same thickness as the material being cut.
i just use rollers, sometimes I have a 12 to 20 foot length of teak or something so the roller setup is fantastic to guide and stop that up and down, for side to side i just have a system that clamps onto the fence and over the board to hold it tight to the fence.
Terrific safe idea to help control infeed of long stock! You rate a Cheeseburger. One addition is to create a vertical pressure finger to mount on the thin base to secure the stock to the metal surface eliminating one control issue. A lateral feather board would allow complete infeed control. Keep on innovating!
I love your videos, You always have practical simple solutions to common woodworking problems. I love your box joint jig and going to make a shooting board based on your design after I failed on a more complex design.
This is a valid and valuable video. For myself I think I would make the auxiliary fence thicker, drill holes in the top and use the holes with clamps so you have a clean fence to run against. Get rid of the horizontal piece and use the thick fence to beef up the tail fin connection. With this setup you could also use a dado blade
You would need some VERY stable wood to build as you suggest rather than the "L" shape described here, the form of which is inherently stable.
Yup! I had to do something like this when I was breaking down some very long 8/4 ash that was 10” wide. Plank probably weighed like 80-100 lbs. I have great outfeed support, but had no infeed support to handle that job by myself. And my table saw is a basic 10” Dewalt, which has a short infeed to behind with.
Good idea. To build on your idea, if you make one long enough, you make an in-feed portion and an out-feed portion that saddles your table saw. Obviously this can be over done. But if kept within reason...