What are Polyhydroxy Acids? The role of PHA in skincare | Ask Doctor Anne
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- Опубліковано 14 лип 2024
- When I mentioned The Inkey List PHA Toner, I got many questions: What are PHA or Polyhydroxy Acids? And what is their role in skincare? Can they be combined with retinol, which skin types are they best for and which concentration do we need? Here are the answers!
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Shop everything mentioned in this video here (affiliate links):
The Inkey List Pha Toner: myshlf.us/p-198879
Zelens Pha+ Resurfacing Facial Pad: myshlf.us/p-198880
Glossier Solution: myshlf.us/p-198881
Peter Thomas Roth Pro Strength 10% Pha Exfoliating Clarifying Liquid: myshlf.us/p-198883
Shop more of my favorite products here: shopmyshelf.us/doctoranne
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Kapitel:
0:00 Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA) - What we will talk about
0:43 Intro
1:08 What are Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA)?
2:45 The benefits of PHA in skincare
4:19 Side effects of PHA in skincare
5:22 Who will benefit the most from PHA in their skincare?
6:21 Product recommendations
References:
Algiert-Zielińska, B., Mucha, P., & Rotsztejn, H. (2018). Comparative evaluation of skin moisture after topical application of 10% and 30% lactobionic acid. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(6), 1096-1100. doi.org/10.1111/JOCD.12485
A, K., SG, C., & VJ, H. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135. doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042
Draelos, Z. D., Green, B. A., & Edison, B. L. (2006). An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patients. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 5(1), 23-29. doi.org/10.1111/J.1473-2165.2...
Yu, R. J., & Van Scott, E. J. (2004). Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 76-87. doi.org/10.1111/J.1473-2130.2...
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As doctor passionate about skin care that delivers results I want to help you quickly and efficiently pick a skin care regime that works, by explaining the science behind skin and by sharing quick product reviews.
I am a big believer that creating a skincare routine that targets your specific concerns is not a matter of your budget. There are many great affordable brands out there: The Inkey List, Good Molecules, Geek & Gorgeous or pixi skincare to name a few of my favorites, and if you know how to combine them, you are well on your way to healthy and happy skin.
Healthy and happy skin does not mean "flawless" - whatever that might be. I have been struggling with acne, hyperpigmentation and postinflammatory erythema (PIH and PIE) for most of my adult life, and it took me a while to figure out that gentle is key. I went through a retinol damaged skin barrier, acne flare ups and sun damage until I finally reached my happy place: With Tretinoin, sunscreen and of course a red lipstick!
Disclaimer:
I am a doctor, so I do have a good understanding of scientific studies, skin and ingredients.This video is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Content provided on this UA-cam channel is for informational purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this UA-cam channel should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare professional. The statements made about specific products throughout this video are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.
Some links used above may be affiliate links and some products mentioned are PR-Samples/ gifted items.
This is not a sponsored video.
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Do you have any PHA products you can recommend?
@@sydneyjames2705 You can recommend me to whom?
NeoStrata Bio-Hydrating Cream - PHA 15
@@kangaoo2023 NeoStrata is a brand I have yet to try.
Facetheory Polypep serum has gluconolactone, peptides and centella
@@internationallanguageofdan3559 I haven't tried anything from Facetheory yet.
I was using a PHA and didn't know it - La Roche-Posay's Cicoplast Balm. Really like it as my night cream for my really dry skin :) Thanks for sharing.
I wouldn't have thought that one had PHA - they are more common than one might think!
What? cicaplast has pha's 😯? I've been using it as well, for sensitised or dry patches. Very interesting!
@@auricia201 I don't know in which concentration t is used, that plays a huge role as well, but PHA are supposed very gentle.
Loved the video. Please do one on LHA as well
Put it on my list!
Great video!
Thank you. Do you have product recommendations with PHA?
I’m using LRP cicaplast Baume on my delicate eczema skin already and enjoy very much, once or twice a week I use The ordinary 10% mandelic acid but once that’s finished I plan on using inkey list PHA toner. Also waiting in my stash to be opened is the skincity luminous licorice toner with PHA 50ml travel size because I’ve not tried it before but looking foward to it …have a good evening DR Anne😊
I have a Mandelic Acid Toner from Wishtrend that I need to get out and finally try.
love your content Dr. Anne. what are your thoughts about layering Pha or any acids and peptides. i remember reading somewhere they can affect eachother (something about one making the other hydroginated) and i have no idea what that means.. thanks 🙏
One works best in an alkaline environment, and the other in an acidic one, which is the reason why they might work better when not layered. The only time where I personally pay attention to not using them in the same routine though is with copper peptides.
There are PHAs in my clay mask; I mostly assume their inclusion is a gimmick.
I am mainly a fan of glycolic acid, to be honest. I think it is definitely the most difficult exfoliating ingredient to use in terms of irritation but learning to tolerate it is worth it for me
I agree, it is the most rewarding in terms of results for sure. But wow did I go overboard with it when I first started using it!
@@DoctorAnne honestly, it is surprisingly strong and I don’t think many people appreciate that. I know multiple people who just say they can’t use it but I think it should be treated more like a retinoid: start with a low percentage and cautiously. Because it is definitely the acid that gives the fastest and most noticeable results
@@moose8762 We have a lot of high percentage ones on the market with confusing instructions, like The Ordinary Peeling Solution. I can imagine if that is the first one you try and you don't use it with caution, you come to the conclusion that it isn't for you.
Interesting. I'm using AlphaH Liquid Gold with Glycolic once a week. I'll look into PHA when I've finished the bottle. Hi from Australia
Liquid Gold was my first "real" exfoliant - it is strong, but made such a difference on my skin!
@@DoctorAnne It is strong but so good. I'm still using Tretinoin nightly as well and am pretty happy with my skin. With summer coming up I'm looking to get a thicker day moisturizer to use for the hot, dry weather.
@@babygoatsmum4122 Sounds great.
I have the Inkey List PHA Toner, but I didn't use it that much, and in the meantime I introduced retinol, so now I'm not sure if I should "mix" them both 🤔
I use the toner in the mornings and Tretinoin at night. Just start slowly and see what your skin can take
Aveeno came out with a PHA exfoliating cream. I wanted to try it, but it was sold out in my store.
That sounds interesting, I will look out for it.
I'm interested in The Ordinary 10% Lactic Acid.
Have you tried Lactic Acid before? I used Good Genes by Sunday Riley for a long time and really liked the gentle exfoliation it gave me.
@@DoctorAnne I’ve not tried it cosmetically. It works well in Amlactin for keratosis pilaris.
@@susanmcf1 It is a great one for Keratosis Pilaris indeed.
Off topic question please Dr. Anne..
Benzoyl peroxide wash.. What shouldn't i use after it?
-as I've heared it cancels many stuff afterwards -
TIA 🌹
Benzoylperoxide is an oxidant, so it isn't ideal paired with antioxidants like Vitamin C. It can also be pretty irritant, but as it is the wash you are talking about, I wouldn't be too cautious, as it gets washed off.
@@DoctorAnne OK.. Such a relief!
Because I really love the idea of incorporation it a wash off.. Then follow up by niacinamide and Salycilic acid as leave on!
Thanks Dr. Anne
I have a cosrx product that has PHA alongside centella
@@m.younis9849 How is it called?
What percentage is effective?
That isn't entirely clear, as I mentioned in the video. But up to 10% are usually tolerated well.
u forgot the best of the best, Clinique turnaround serum
Oh, I haven't tried that one. Now I am curious!