Beautifully explained good sir! Much appreciated! Saved me a lot of time searching for this information and you went the next step showing how to put the setting in the quick access menu at my fingertips! 👌 Subscribed! ❤
@@frederikboving It does sound strange but it makes sense in particular situations. For example; Photographing a solar eclipse. I want my _first_ exposure in the sequence to start at 1/60” because that is the required shutter speed to capture the “Diamond Ring” effect of the eclipse since my aperture and ISO are fixed.
Thank you for another great useful video. I set my camera to M (manual) mode. I already set the ISO to auto with a maximum of 12800. Shutter 90% of the time is set to between 60 to 500 depending on the light situation and aperture I usually set it using the aperture ring on the lens or using the rear dial on the camera. This setting works best for me.
Hi Frederik, thanks for explaining how bracketing is done on the Nikon Z6. Looking at a Z6 today - I love doing HDR photography so bracketing is essential! 😄
Hi Frederik, Very nice video, thank you! I actually looked it up after a "failed" experience where I was using auto-bracketing for closeup pictures of flowers. Obviously depth of field is a parameter I want to control and I wouldn’t want the aperture to change throughout the bracketing sequence. However, in Manual mode and auto-ISO, I realized on LR that my Z6ii adjusted aperture and not speed (as on your video) nor ISO (which was my expectation in auto-iSO mode). Is there something obvious I’m missing? Side note: I use auto-bracketing often in architecture photography (dark churches in a tripod, or high contrast situations outside of buildings), typically in Aperture priority mode. Then the Z6 adjusts by speed which is usually ok, even in handheld situations. Thank you for your comment if you have a moment 🤓 Cheers!
I think you may want to take a look at setting e6? ("; in mode M, the camera will first use auto ISO sensitivity control to bring exposure as close as possible to the optimum and then bracket this exposure by varying shutter speed. Custom Setting e6 (Auto bracketing (mode M), 0 Auto Bracketing (Mode M)) can be used to change how the camera performs exposure and flash bracketing in manual exposure mode. ") - hope this helps 👍
Thank you @@frederikboving ! I saw this section indeed but after my failed experience. I'm surprised the Z6 woud not, in auto-ISO, adjust ISO before using shutter speed to adjust lighting. In my case all bracked series where adjusted by the Z6 by changing Aperture (not ISO or Shutter speed). I will do further testing, and perhaps revert to A mode, adjust to a reasonable ISO, and let the Z6 auto adjust with speed, as I usually do. Will keep you posted 😉
Hi Frederik, I'm looking to upgrade from the D5200, and I know you had a D5600 similarly. Would you recommend going APS-C mirrorless or full frame (eg. Z50 vs Z5)? I shoot with lots of manual focus pre-AI lenses that don't mount on full frame Nikon DSLRs like the D750, D800 so that may be out of the question for me. Thanks!
Great question - thank you! Initially, my apologies for a lengthy answer: Normally, when talking APS-C, I recommend DSLRs that have the built in AF motor. this gives the AF and AF-D glass auto focus and many seem to like this comfort. The entry level cameras like the D5300 or D5600 do not have this motor. However, you mention explicitly that you shoot a lot with manual focus, so my take on it is that this feature is less important to you? Anywho, if you want the built in AF motor, then the D500, D7100 and D7200 are "classics" that are worth a closer look. I am not sure any of them a manufactured anymore, so you probably have to find a good used copy. I am sure you are fully aware that when shooting with full frame (FF) glass on an APS-C camera, the crop factor kicks in and gives you a longer focal length, as you are only using the center part of the full frame glass. So if you are shooting with FF 50mm glass on APS-C, you'll get a 75mm equivalent focal length. I just want to mention this as you may want to stay with APS-C for this reason alone. If you go for a FF body, then all your lenses will seem to become shorter! Also, I am sure you are aware that mirrorless (ML) cameras cannot mount F-mount glass directly. It needs an adapter, the so called FTZ (F-mount to Z-mount) adapter. I have a video that introduces it here: ua-cam.com/video/erEUTTQSzx0/v-deo.html . Consulting the specs, it seems to me like the adapter can take the pre-AI glass, but as I have never tried this IRL, so please take this with a big reservation! That said, and knowing that you shoot a lot with manual focus, I would certainly consider going mirrorless, as it makes manual focus SO much easier. I have a video that shows it for the Z6ii, but I would imagine that the same features are available for the Z50 and the Z5, although I have not consulted the spec sheets: ua-cam.com/video/6i2-U0kbJtg/v-deo.html . Of course a DSLR in live view mode may offer some of the same features, but the ability to zoom in the viewfinder and have focus peaking highlights shown also in the viewfinder, for me is a great tool for nailing manual focus. But not everyone likes an electronic viewfinder and hence we quickly step into personal preference territory, where YMMV and all that. I have a blog post where I talk about DSLRs vs ML cameras here: frederikboving.com/is-mirrorless-cameras-better-than-dslrs/ and the gist of it is the same: that personal preference dominate here, so ML may not be your preference at all. Hope this helps or at least has confused you on a more informed level! All the best!
The manual says: "Note that for exposure increments of 2 EV or more, the maximum number of shots is 5; if a higher value was selected in Step 2, the number of shots will automatically be set to 5."
Beautifully explained good sir!
Much appreciated!
Saved me a lot of time searching for this information and you went the next step showing how to put the setting in the quick access menu at my fingertips! 👌
Subscribed! ❤
🙏🏻
1:43 When you use Auto bracketing in Manual mode with a *fixed ISO* the camera will still adjust the shutter speed to complete the bracket sequence.
Manual mode and bracketing sounds like contradiction in terms if you ask me.
@@frederikboving It does sound strange but it makes sense in particular situations. For example; Photographing a solar eclipse. I want my _first_ exposure in the sequence to start at 1/60” because that is the required shutter speed to capture the “Diamond Ring” effect of the eclipse since my aperture and ISO are fixed.
I had forgotten have to activate bracketing on my D700 so thanks for the video. 👍
Greetings from sunny North Carolina.
Thank you for this very clear lesson .
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thank you for another great useful video.
I set my camera to M (manual) mode. I already set the ISO to auto with a maximum of 12800. Shutter 90% of the time is set to between 60 to 500 depending on the light situation and aperture I usually set it using the aperture ring on the lens or using the rear dial on the camera. This setting works best for me.
Thanks for sharing! 🙏🏻
Excellent! I used this on my Z8 instead of the self timer option. (self time has annoying green light that can not be disabled).
👌
Hi Frederik, thanks for explaining how bracketing is done on the Nikon Z6. Looking at a Z6 today - I love doing HDR photography so bracketing is essential! 😄
🙏🏻👊
Hi Frederik,
Very nice video, thank you!
I actually looked it up after a "failed" experience where I was using auto-bracketing for closeup pictures of flowers.
Obviously depth of field is a parameter I want to control and I wouldn’t want the aperture to change throughout the bracketing sequence.
However, in Manual mode and auto-ISO, I realized on LR that my Z6ii adjusted aperture and not speed (as on your video) nor ISO (which was my expectation in auto-iSO mode).
Is there something obvious I’m missing?
Side note: I use auto-bracketing often in architecture photography (dark churches in a tripod, or high contrast situations outside of buildings), typically in Aperture priority mode. Then the Z6 adjusts by speed which is usually ok, even in handheld situations.
Thank you for your comment if you have a moment 🤓
Cheers!
I think you may want to take a look at setting e6? ("; in mode M, the camera will first use auto ISO sensitivity control to bring exposure as close as possible to the optimum and then bracket this exposure by varying shutter speed. Custom Setting e6 (Auto bracketing (mode M), 0 Auto Bracketing (Mode M)) can be used to change how the camera performs exposure and flash bracketing in manual exposure mode. ") - hope this helps 👍
Thank you @@frederikboving !
I saw this section indeed but after my failed experience. I'm surprised the Z6 woud not, in auto-ISO, adjust ISO before using shutter speed to adjust lighting. In my case all bracked series where adjusted by the Z6 by changing Aperture (not ISO or Shutter speed).
I will do further testing, and perhaps revert to A mode, adjust to a reasonable ISO, and let the Z6 auto adjust with speed, as I usually do.
Will keep you posted 😉
Hi Frederik, I'm looking to upgrade from the D5200, and I know you had a D5600 similarly. Would you recommend going APS-C mirrorless or full frame (eg. Z50 vs Z5)? I shoot with lots of manual focus pre-AI lenses that don't mount on full frame Nikon DSLRs like the D750, D800 so that may be out of the question for me. Thanks!
Great question - thank you! Initially, my apologies for a lengthy answer:
Normally, when talking APS-C, I recommend DSLRs that have the built in AF motor. this gives the AF and AF-D glass auto focus and many seem to like this comfort. The entry level cameras like the D5300 or D5600 do not have this motor. However, you mention explicitly that you shoot a lot with manual focus, so my take on it is that this feature is less important to you? Anywho, if you want the built in AF motor, then the D500, D7100 and D7200 are "classics" that are worth a closer look. I am not sure any of them a manufactured anymore, so you probably have to find a good used copy.
I am sure you are fully aware that when shooting with full frame (FF) glass on an APS-C camera, the crop factor kicks in and gives you a longer focal length, as you are only using the center part of the full frame glass. So if you are shooting with FF 50mm glass on APS-C, you'll get a 75mm equivalent focal length. I just want to mention this as you may want to stay with APS-C for this reason alone. If you go for a FF body, then all your lenses will seem to become shorter!
Also, I am sure you are aware that mirrorless (ML) cameras cannot mount F-mount glass directly. It needs an adapter, the so called FTZ (F-mount to Z-mount) adapter. I have a video that introduces it here: ua-cam.com/video/erEUTTQSzx0/v-deo.html . Consulting the specs, it seems to me like the adapter can take the pre-AI glass, but as I have never tried this IRL, so please take this with a big reservation!
That said, and knowing that you shoot a lot with manual focus, I would certainly consider going mirrorless, as it makes manual focus SO much easier. I have a video that shows it for the Z6ii, but I would imagine that the same features are available for the Z50 and the Z5, although I have not consulted the spec sheets: ua-cam.com/video/6i2-U0kbJtg/v-deo.html . Of course a DSLR in live view mode may offer some of the same features, but the ability to zoom in the viewfinder and have focus peaking highlights shown also in the viewfinder, for me is a great tool for nailing manual focus. But not everyone likes an electronic viewfinder and hence we quickly step into personal preference territory, where YMMV and all that. I have a blog post where I talk about DSLRs vs ML cameras here: frederikboving.com/is-mirrorless-cameras-better-than-dslrs/ and the gist of it is the same: that personal preference dominate here, so ML may not be your preference at all.
Hope this helps or at least has confused you on a more informed level! All the best!
@@frederikboving Thank you so much :) Appreciate it greatly, keep making amazing content!
@@dgmwitz 🙏🏻🤗
Can I shoot 7 x 2 EV increments?
The manual says: "Note that for exposure increments of 2 EV or more, the maximum number of shots is 5; if a higher value was selected in Step 2, the number of shots will automatically be set to 5."
Did you trade the D750 for the Z6?
Nope. The D750 is still an awesome camera with built in AF motor. But I am taking a serious look at the Z8.
Can you do this on the D750?
@@CGTaper Nikon D750: How to do exposure bracketing (HDR)
ua-cam.com/video/SKe10oTDnRg/v-deo.html
@@frederikboving thank you ❣