For Pint glasses and other slanted drinkware, I cut a wooden ring that is the same dimension as the top of the glass and the inner circle the size of the bottom of the glass. Basically, I cut a wheel and slide it on the bottom of the glass to make it level for the roller rotary. works great.
A 300mm lens would be the go-to answer normally for getting a larger range of focus, but is going to be huge on the UV. If you have the power to drive it to mark what you need, then you may just struggle with the height of your tower and trying to get enough height to focus (depending on the focal distance of the lens and height of the material). But on something like glass, most people can't handle glass on a UV with a 300 due to lack of power density at focus. An F160 is a 110 work area or thereabouts, going up to something like a 150-175 work area would give you plenty of power in focus and a bit more focal range. If you go above 200, you may have a hard time with glass due to the power density needed to ablate it, mileage may vary. UV has a significantly shorter range of focus compared to Co2 or fiber with an equivalent lens size :(. For the rotary troubles, try dropping your split size, a lot. Like in the 2-3mm range - 1/10th of an inch or so, may help. It will go a little slower because of the number of rotations you have to wait on the rotary for, but it should help with quality and line edges meeting up better. There are spring loaded wine glass/tumbler rotary fixtures that use a chuck bolted down to a plate with a cone in the chuck for fast change outs, but I have to wedge mine up at an angle for stuff like pints because of the taper. You could do something like a rotoboss, piburn or similar with an adjustable rear end that can level out the cup if that's something that might work for you. Just gotta tell the company the connector you have and what type of rotary driver you are using (2 phase or 3), and they can wire it up to work with your laser. Good to see you, as always man! Have a great holiday and new year to you and the fam!
Thanks Kyle. They are saying the same thing about the lens. They don’t think it will be enough power for glass if I go to the 300 so I think I will be trying 175. I hope you have a great Christmas as well. Thanks again for everything Kyle.
Matt, I noticed you mentioned getting a 175mm lens, I have a 5w UV and am having a hard time with cylinder correction, just not enough depth or power, maybe both, with the 175. I also cannot get the chuck that my manufacturer included with the laser to work either, steps are all over the place, very inconsistent. Im also working with a PiBurn rotary, which also has been a challenge, so much so that Ive contacted my manufacturer. They essentially told me that it cant be done and that they tested their rotary drivers and are unable to give me the steps etc... its been a whole thing. Long story short, theyre sending me a new rotary driver to install into my machine to see if that works.
Hello Matt, excellent video, I am a new subscriber and I am learning a lot by watching your videos. Could you please give me the link to your UV laser machine? The link you had is down. Greetings
Hey matt. Were you able to find a good setting for the rotary? I cant seem to be able to run it with high split sizes. I get some weird spaces in the design
@@laserengravingwithmatt awesome looking forward to it. I also use .04 with an overlap of .01 or so. Trying to figure out how some people get away with split sizes of over 1 mm. All of my tests come out with spaces and separations in the designs.
I use a roller style rotary tool that has an adjustable foot to level out tapers. Works great in the CO2 don't know if it would work on the UV laser. I can share a link if you like (non affiliate)
Is there a way to avoid the laser etching into the bottom layer under the engraving if that makes sense? We also got a 3w UV after watching your first video on it! Completely gave up on the Chuck as I'm trying to engrave pint glasses... I hooked up the Coudray roller for the Co2 and that works flawless once I figured out the steps per rotation. I got the engraving to come out perfect at 28 freq 3 q speed 250, focus in 2mm, but no mater what speed, frequency, split size I use there's a faint image on the inner layer directly under the engraving. This might be unavoidable but the rotary never got set up in the Co2, so this is my first real go at glass. Thank in advance and looking forward to more UV content. This thing has blew my mind so far!
That’s awesome. I run 30 freq and 1q at 300 and if you move the focus a little bit it will stop doing that. It is pretty cool. I have done a whole glass like that but yeah it’s the focus just move a little.
@@laserengravingwithmatt I lifted the focus until it got spotty but still have the ghosting. I did notice though that on an area I was testing yesterday, the bottom layer was burned without the top layer if that makes sense. It was out of focus so it engraved the inside of the glass but never etched the outside at all. That's what made me think it was unavoidable. raising the focus did lessen it a bit, but it's still there.
@@laserengravingwithmatt Well it seems the "ghost" I've been chasing is the shadow on the inside due to me needing to upgrade the lighting on the side of the shop where the UV is... I took it to a brighter room it's gone, darker room with the phone light behind it and it's gone! The joys of learning lol Thanks again for your help and look forward to new content. On a side note my wife thanks you as well because until you posted that first video, I was hard on the path to a 100w Fiber as our next addition to the 100ww Co2. But Momma wants to do glass!! Fiber will be next.
Have you tried cutting the glaze off a ceramic cup I bet the white will pop if you go with a darker glazes? If you were working off a perfect cylinder I don't think you would have the distortion. But because of the slight angle when it rotates the bottom edge overlaps. Either you account for this wedge shape or smaller micro steps might be easier good luck. 300 got a bigger window of depth maybe skip the rotation. Good luck
Matt, Sara…thanks for a great year of videos! Hope you have a fabulous Christmas.
😃 thanks and same to you.
For Pint glasses and other slanted drinkware, I cut a wooden ring that is the same dimension as the top of the glass and the inner circle the size of the bottom of the glass. Basically, I cut a wheel and slide it on the bottom of the glass to make it level for the roller rotary. works great.
👍😃
A 300mm lens would be the go-to answer normally for getting a larger range of focus, but is going to be huge on the UV. If you have the power to drive it to mark what you need, then you may just struggle with the height of your tower and trying to get enough height to focus (depending on the focal distance of the lens and height of the material). But on something like glass, most people can't handle glass on a UV with a 300 due to lack of power density at focus. An F160 is a 110 work area or thereabouts, going up to something like a 150-175 work area would give you plenty of power in focus and a bit more focal range. If you go above 200, you may have a hard time with glass due to the power density needed to ablate it, mileage may vary. UV has a significantly shorter range of focus compared to Co2 or fiber with an equivalent lens size :(.
For the rotary troubles, try dropping your split size, a lot. Like in the 2-3mm range - 1/10th of an inch or so, may help. It will go a little slower because of the number of rotations you have to wait on the rotary for, but it should help with quality and line edges meeting up better. There are spring loaded wine glass/tumbler rotary fixtures that use a chuck bolted down to a plate with a cone in the chuck for fast change outs, but I have to wedge mine up at an angle for stuff like pints because of the taper. You could do something like a rotoboss, piburn or similar with an adjustable rear end that can level out the cup if that's something that might work for you. Just gotta tell the company the connector you have and what type of rotary driver you are using (2 phase or 3), and they can wire it up to work with your laser.
Good to see you, as always man! Have a great holiday and new year to you and the fam!
Thanks Kyle. They are saying the same thing about the lens. They don’t think it will be enough power for glass if I go to the 300 so I think I will be trying 175. I hope you have a great Christmas as well. Thanks again for everything Kyle.
Matt, I noticed you mentioned getting a 175mm lens, I have a 5w UV and am having a hard time with cylinder correction, just not enough depth or power, maybe both, with the 175.
I also cannot get the chuck that my manufacturer included with the laser to work either, steps are all over the place, very inconsistent. Im also working with a PiBurn rotary, which also has been a challenge, so much so that Ive contacted my manufacturer.
They essentially told me that it cant be done and that they tested their rotary drivers and are unable to give me the steps etc... its been a whole thing. Long story short, theyre sending me a new rotary driver to install into my machine to see if that works.
Splitsize the same as the line interval works the best with rotary. So 1000 dpi lpi 0.254 then splitsing also 0.254 😉
300mm to large for a 5watt uv
Thanks 😃
I just ordered a Thunder Aurora 8 5 Watt UV and a Rotoboss Low Roller. I hope it works out. Thanks for the great videos and insperation
That’s awesome. Let me know how it goes
Your setup looks so good bro
Thanks 😃
Good Working.
Mactron for the win baby.
Ask before buying a 300mm lens, I think you will need a higher tower to focus
Hello Matt, excellent video, I am a new subscriber and I am learning a lot by watching your videos. Could you please give me the link to your UV laser machine? The link you had is down. Greetings
Hey matt. Were you able to find a good setting for the rotary? I cant seem to be able to run it with high split sizes. I get some weird spaces in the design
Yes I am making a video right now. Split is .04 in the start settings
@@laserengravingwithmatt awesome looking forward to it. I also use .04 with an overlap of .01 or so. Trying to figure out how some people get away with split sizes of over 1 mm. All of my tests come out with spaces and separations in the designs.
Matt, I didn't know this until recently but you can get a rotoboss for these
Really? I have the rotoboss for my thunder
I use a roller style rotary tool that has an adjustable foot to level out tapers. Works great in the CO2 don't know if it would work on the UV laser. I can share a link if you like (non affiliate)
I have that for the gantry lasers, but not my Gelo lasers
In your rotary setup you shouls set split to the width of your dot size and it might solve your fill issue
Thanks 😃
Matt wishing you and your family a Merry Xmas. Glad to see you later. Bye 😅
Thanks and same to you 😃
I have been eyeballing the mactron brand. Why did you choose wise, and how do the quality of the 2 brands compare?
I can’t compare because one is finer and one is UV
@@laserengravingwithmatt ok. I was referring to build quality, but that is ok. Thanks for the videos.
What rack do you have that the glasses are stored on while your sitting in your chair?
Pallet racking from home depot
Is there a way to avoid the laser etching into the bottom layer under the engraving if that makes sense? We also got a 3w UV after watching your first video on it! Completely gave up on the Chuck as I'm trying to engrave pint glasses... I hooked up the Coudray roller for the Co2 and that works flawless once I figured out the steps per rotation. I got the engraving to come out perfect at 28 freq 3 q speed 250, focus in 2mm, but no mater what speed, frequency, split size I use there's a faint image on the inner layer directly under the engraving. This might be unavoidable but the rotary never got set up in the Co2, so this is my first real go at glass. Thank in advance and looking forward to more UV content. This thing has blew my mind so far!
That’s awesome. I run 30 freq and 1q at 300 and if you move the focus a little bit it will stop doing that. It is pretty cool. I have done a whole glass like that but yeah it’s the focus just move a little.
Awesome I'll give that a shot!@@laserengravingwithmatt
@@laserengravingwithmatt I lifted the focus until it got spotty but still have the ghosting. I did notice though that on an area I was testing yesterday, the bottom layer was burned without the top layer if that makes sense. It was out of focus so it engraved the inside of the glass but never etched the outside at all. That's what made me think it was unavoidable. raising the focus did lessen it a bit, but it's still there.
I don’t know what to say. The settings I gave works for me and I just played with the focus and I don’t get that.
@@laserengravingwithmatt Well it seems the "ghost" I've been chasing is the shadow on the inside due to me needing to upgrade the lighting on the side of the shop where the UV is... I took it to a brighter room it's gone, darker room with the phone light behind it and it's gone! The joys of learning lol Thanks again for your help and look forward to new content. On a side note my wife thanks you as well because until you posted that first video, I was hard on the path to a 100w Fiber as our next addition to the 100ww Co2. But Momma wants to do glass!! Fiber will be next.
Where do you get your gloves you engrave on?
Those gloves were from fleet farm
I appreciate it! My wife and I enjoy watching your guy’s journey! Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Have you tried cutting the glaze off a ceramic cup I bet the white will pop if you go with a darker glazes?
If you were working off a perfect cylinder I don't think you would have the distortion. But because of the slight angle when it rotates the bottom edge overlaps. Either you account for this wedge shape or smaller micro steps might be easier good luck.
300 got a bigger window of depth maybe skip the rotation. Good luck
Good point. Thanks 😃
Oh and I have not tried cutting the glaze off
what fiber laser would you recommend ? have a Merry Christmas
I love my Mactron. I have a link to the one I got in the description.
get roto boss in thunder we do ton full wrap Stanly cups non stop
Thanks
Try split size of. 04
I will thanks
Matt. Can't I just purchase a UV lens instead of purchasing a whole new Fiber Laser? Asking for a Friend.....
Nope it a total different light source.
Do you have a Discord channel ?
No just Patron. Link is in the description.
At least I'm not the only one that has rotary trouble. I am about to throw mine out the window
😂