If you have long enough screws, I'd make them pass all the way through the standoffs and screw directly into the main part of the handle, that way you don't have such a thin cross section just to make room for the nut. If you have the tap for that screw profile, that would also probably be stronger than the nut, for the same reason. If you don't, you can modify the screws to cut threads instead of forming them by pushing plastic out of the way, should reduce chance of splitting.
i really liked the video, the spring / compliant pin was really nice, and it is something i need to find a reason to use myself!! i wonder if you considered fixing the wooden handle using 3d printing? like cutting the wooden dowels that broke shorter and adding 3d printed ends. While it would be less interesting than your solution i can't help to like that it would use less material, and how it gives the broken handle a new lease on life. Since your solution uses an easy release mechanism, it would be cool to see you do funky handles for your washing machine, maybe some very fun and not so useful or ergonomic :P
@@strelkomania :D Thank you too for being such a nice and awesome human! It's always a nice day when you upload a video :) I love thinkering, I love engineering, the way you approach and solve problems is really how I want to learn to do stuff. I'm still learning and your videos help me a lot lot lot. THANK YOU!
@@strelkomania Hey friend! I found an amazing video about using multimaterial to print parts more easily! In this one he tested PETG PLA ABS and TPU :) KnvEhYCimKc Can't paste links here so that's the video ID. It's really awesome info!
Personally, I would have just used wood glue and/or epoxy and installed some appropriate sized wood threadserts. It's a good exercise of engineering skills, but there's no need to overcomplicate the solution. I don't think I've ever seen a large appliance of any kind with wooden handles before this.
8:18 3D printing are just not that good at making press fits.😂 But I often make holes undersized and drill them larger. It is a little more work, but I just prefer the quality of the holes.🤔 Another thing I like is to use my soldering iron to push metal peaches into the plastic. The downside being removing them again🤷♂.
I mean no hate, but isn't this a case of major over-engineering? I would've just designed and printed the handle with dowels, as a single piece. Also with holes in dowels for self-threading, instead of nuts (doesn't need to come off and will be stronger). But maybe I missed some design constraint.
@6moon.s I'm not even remotely trying to attack anyone here. Just a friendly voicing my opinion. I'm pretty sure that direct threading in this particular case, where the dowel is only a bit wider than the nut would be stronger, if you have enough thread depth. And about dowel strength - the whole piece could be printed laying down with minimal supports under the dowels, or even with dowels at 45 degrees up, which will compensate for smaller bed. In case if dowels don't fit on a print bed, I would've printed them separately and did a press-fit with a bit of some glue or epoxy. Again, that how I would've done it. Just my 2 cents. p.s. I usually over-engineer in other places, like control electronics.
@6moon.s honestly both of you are onto something - making those dowel/pegs hexagonal and trying to add threads to it could be worth a shot! thank you for for this discussion and for your good ideas. I like sharing my fixes because of this reason. People in the comments look at it differently !! Although, in terms of making threads, my fear is they wont turn out that well because they are relatively small (m5 i think). Maybe a heated insert would have been better but I didn't have those on hand...
@@x_ph1l 2 cents appreciated :) i wanted to make it in multiple parts so that if the door handle broke off again in the future I wouldn't have to print the whole thing again, just the two smaller dowels/legs of the handle.
@@strelkomania thanks) nah, you don't usually need a threaded insert for small threads that don't need to be undone. Just get a close fit hole without any threads, not too tight and not too loose - usuall requires a little bit of experimentation for each filament type, and the screw itself will tap that hole for you. Just make sure to not drive that screw with a impact driver or a drill on high to not melt your newly formed threads. If you havent tried it, I would suggest to play with it - works really well.
To be cited in a subsequent video is an honor like no other
I can't help but wonder how the original handle broke in the first place and who replaced it with wood. Dad!?
If you have long enough screws, I'd make them pass all the way through the standoffs and screw directly into the main part of the handle, that way you don't have such a thin cross section just to make room for the nut.
If you have the tap for that screw profile, that would also probably be stronger than the nut, for the same reason. If you don't, you can modify the screws to cut threads instead of forming them by pushing plastic out of the way, should reduce chance of splitting.
Never seen a washing machine with wooden handle... I wonder why.
Why would a washing machine, which you can't open without the handle, have a flimsy wooden handle???
this is the best 3d printer title for a video. like YES I wanna know!
cool fix. nice nails! great video!
i really liked the video, the spring / compliant pin was really nice, and it is something i need to find a reason to use myself!!
i wonder if you considered fixing the wooden handle using 3d printing? like cutting the wooden dowels that broke shorter and adding 3d printed ends. While it would be less interesting than your solution i can't help to like that it would use less material, and how it gives the broken handle a new lease on life.
Since your solution uses an easy release mechanism, it would be cool to see you do funky handles for your washing machine, maybe some very fun and not so useful or ergonomic :P
This channel is cool
Oh cool! These are my favorite types of project. feels good to fix some complex plastic part rather than the trash and consume culture we have today
Fun video!
thank you for stopping by again :) always happy to see you in the comments !
@@strelkomania :D
Thank you too for being such a nice and awesome human! It's always a nice day when you upload a video :)
I love thinkering, I love engineering, the way you approach and solve problems is really how I want to learn to do stuff.
I'm still learning and your videos help me a lot lot lot.
THANK YOU!
@@strelkomania Hey friend! I found an amazing video about using multimaterial to print parts more easily! In this one he tested PETG PLA ABS and TPU :)
KnvEhYCimKc
Can't paste links here so that's the video ID. It's really awesome info!
Nice
la piba que resuelve
Personally, I would have just used wood glue and/or epoxy and installed some appropriate sized wood threadserts. It's a good exercise of engineering skills, but there's no need to overcomplicate the solution. I don't think I've ever seen a large appliance of any kind with wooden handles before this.
Super glue 😊
Noice!
8:18
3D printing are just not that good at making press fits.😂
But I often make holes undersized and drill them larger. It is a little more work, but I just prefer the quality of the holes.🤔
Another thing I like is to use my soldering iron to push metal peaches into the plastic. The downside being removing them again🤷♂.
Usually I do an offset of between 0.1mm - 0.2mm and it’s good.
If I need a press fit I usually use a slightly tapered hole.
I mean no hate, but isn't this a case of major over-engineering? I would've just designed and printed the handle with dowels, as a single piece. Also with holes in dowels for self-threading, instead of nuts (doesn't need to come off and will be stronger). But maybe I missed some design constraint.
Nah. It works and that's what matters.
@6moon.s I'm not even remotely trying to attack anyone here. Just a friendly voicing my opinion.
I'm pretty sure that direct threading in this particular case, where the dowel is only a bit wider than the nut would be stronger, if you have enough thread depth.
And about dowel strength - the whole piece could be printed laying down with minimal supports under the dowels, or even with dowels at 45 degrees up, which will compensate for smaller bed.
In case if dowels don't fit on a print bed, I would've printed them separately and did a press-fit with a bit of some glue or epoxy.
Again, that how I would've done it. Just my 2 cents.
p.s. I usually over-engineer in other places, like control electronics.
@6moon.s honestly both of you are onto something - making those dowel/pegs hexagonal and trying to add threads to it could be worth a shot! thank you for for this discussion and for your good ideas. I like sharing my fixes because of this reason. People in the comments look at it differently !! Although, in terms of making threads, my fear is they wont turn out that well because they are relatively small (m5 i think). Maybe a heated insert would have been better but I didn't have those on hand...
@@x_ph1l 2 cents appreciated :) i wanted to make it in multiple parts so that if the door handle broke off again in the future I wouldn't have to print the whole thing again, just the two smaller dowels/legs of the handle.
@@strelkomania thanks) nah, you don't usually need a threaded insert for small threads that don't need to be undone. Just get a close fit hole without any threads, not too tight and not too loose - usuall requires a little bit of experimentation for each filament type, and the screw itself will tap that hole for you. Just make sure to not drive that screw with a impact driver or a drill on high to not melt your newly formed threads. If you havent tried it, I would suggest to play with it - works really well.
lol
Women in stem be like
fr
@3:14 🤣🤣