One tack at a time. Don't rush. If something is not fitting the way you want there is no problem cutting it off. Keep the videos coming. Watch your old video on the ghia floor pan. Your welding is coming along more than you think WELL DONE 👏👏👏
This kind of work takes a lot of time. If you spent everyday working you may finish it quicker but working people playing with their cars takes a long time. Trying to get it right. The fight is not for the swift but for the one that endures. Great work CT.
When I fitted mine, as well as getting the door shut right I ran a straight edge across the bottom of the door so the bottom of the quarter panel lined up. You've done well replacing the bottom door hinge and having the door shut as they are a sod to do! (English phrase!) Great work CT!
Also CT :) yes if was boss say your doing well of job and keeping up happy dance spirits on this project! Yes I enjoy watching your hard efforts and work on this project too plus take steps too !
Just liken to sit here and chill watching your videos. Awesome work every time, and the progress is amazing! One 65 making its way back up. Congrats on your choice of vehicles. Peace out!
My first two cars were Beetles... a 63 and a 71 ...great cars always ran well...drove. them all over the place here in Victoria Australia as a surfer ...the 63 broke down and had to get an engine rebuild and got battered around a bit by my driving...the 71 was great kept it in great shape , serviced myself and sold it for a profit after about 5 years..takes me back seeing your work ...cheers Patrick
Never adjust a door whith a car on the jack. Do it when it is done and on its wheels on the floor. Take a tip from an old police mechanic. Or you will do it a 100 times over.
Great to see a restoration video showing just how hard it is to get these small areas to line up. I did some welding on a Mini here in England and when it’s complete and primed my mates couldn’t understand why it took so long! Here is the proof. Admire your optimism when sometimes things don’t go to plan. Hope to see the VW in all its glory one day.
Excellent project, I'm looking forward to seeing the end although I know it will take a long time. However, I'm waiting for it to evolve. Every day and week I wait for the post.
Nice…..if you watch Fitzee fabrications videos especially the video on replacing door bottoms and how he cuts the seam on an angle over top of the old sheet metal….it makes welding the seam really good and nice
Mate a good thing to do when fitting the new lower quarter panel there is quickly fit the running board back on for a minute, to make sure there's the right gap between the bottom of this panel and the top of the running board - you see SO MANY restored bugs where this hasn't been done (like mine :D) where they've welded the repair quarter panel on, finished, painted the car and only then do they fit the running board and discover a massive gap. Another way to look at is by making sure the line along the bottom of the door is continued neatly by the bottom of the new panel. I know it's a bit late for this side, but you can maybe remember this advice for the other side. You're doing absolutely great though, you're so inspiring! Keep up the great work and brilliant videos. Regards from UK.
That is really good to know. I noticed that this panel is not even across the bottom. I don't how that happened but I'm going to fix it. I'm doing the passenger side next. I'll get that side looking good then go back and fix the driver side. Thanks for the advice! =)
Look at it as a learning curve good experience for you and it adds up to a nice video for me to watch. Reminds me of the times spent with my grandfather working on an old Triumph sanding and patching
I like what your doing. I would be pretty happy. Its cool to see you just soaking in what your seeing and doing and learning from it. I see things I like and don't like I see the same mistakes I make too. The Other side will be more matter of fact will go on faster and you will like a little better. Best of all for me is after watching I feel inspired to go out and work on a right rear quarter and channel end cap on my 66, so a big thanks for that! Cheers
If you don't already own one, a Dremel 200 Series Rotary Tool with the EZ Lock 1 1/2" metal cutting discs (Home Depot and Lowe's) comes in handy for cutting those hard-to-reach areas. The 1 1/2" metal cutting discs cut thin and are more precise than the angle grinder metal cutting discs. Your bug is coming along nice. Keep up the good work. Those Porsche 914s in the background are so sexy. I own a '71 Porsche 914 driver. You will enjoy driving the Porsche 914, and they get lots of attention.
Hey Reggie! Thanks man. Yes, I've been want ing a Dremel for a long time. I think it's time to get one. Yes, the 914 are so cool. can't wait to get one of them on the road. Hopefully soon. are you running fuel injection or carbs?
@@CTmoog I'm running fuel injection. I purchased my 914 from the original owner after it sat in her barn for 30 years. I replaced the thick plastic fuel lines with stainless steel fuel lines, replaced the high pressure fuel hoses, and replaced the fuel filter. Then, my 914 (with 42K original miles) started. The Porsche 914 and 912 are very similar, so I look for the 912 parts and info when I can't find it for the 914.
Não sei se o CT fala português. Ele pode não responder. Meu português é muito pobre. Eu falo um pouco por causa do meu espanhol. Eu concordo com você 100%. Acho esse projeto quase perfeito.
Well, and the learning continues, you have got to be the best Coach and Teacher at this and on this video is exactly what I've been working on the rear "B" Pillars ... Thanks
I have watched all of your bug videos, there fantastic I'm convinced I need to restore one as a guy in a wheelchair just to prove I can 😄 (So who in the uk is donating a bug to me 😅) Keep up the good work can't wait to see it going
You dont really need the copper.....some places you cant get it behind. It does make it easier. If you just hold the button a shorter time and do more tacks you can build up welds and fill in a huge gap. I do it all the time.
Yeah..a gentle touch and slow heat can stitch it easily...stay around the outside and fill the gap... takes practice and patience to not overheat it and burn through constantly.!! 😆
I use copper and brass when i can though..it does help alot...but sometimes you can't reach or get in there... i use various ways to hold it in if possible..i got normal arms..not some mutant...
I have a suggestion that you may find it easier to remove the weld with very little, (if any) touching the parent metal if you use the grinder laying almost flat onto the peak of the weld but using the side of the wheel from left to right in a sweeping fashion so that the wheel is crossing the weld RATHER than the nose of the wheel in a plunging fashion and digging into the parent and weld. This is a method that I use and it is more controllable. Please this is only a suggestion. I'm Enjoying your video and the way you are improving the welding - keep it it up! Cheers Tony from Middlesbrough UK.
when you have a larger gap it tends to shrink to fill in that gap. Yes you will need to do some hammering on that Wait till yo do those door bottoms. Then you will really see how much it warps.
Nice job CT, but in my opinion it would be much easier if first you use magnets to prefix new metal patch and before welding put in the lower section self-drill screws to ensure right position of all. Then start welding flat sections and lower points (not all in the same area to avoid tensions. In any case you have reach great results.
I'm a novice too and I think seeing you just get on with it and do the best job you can is an inspiration. With mild steel, you can't be guaranteed that the steel will respond the same (the existing bodywork may have a slightly different performance with heat than the new panel. From what I've read the steel should be 0.9mm thick but there may be some off days at the steel plant and it's a little thinner - is it worth checking with a micrometer before you weld to see if it's the same thickness?). I agree with the guy who said you could have put a brace in at the back and also, when welding a panel like this one, but if you have three people there you can think about doing this type of thing. Getting a tack on either end until the new panel is in place helps and then tacking at equal distances (one or two inches apart seems to be about standard, but in some cases you might tack and check if everything is alright) seems common, this may help assess if the warping of other panels might take place. If you have a plan of how to go around the car, practicing and looking for any unusual performance of the welds so you can start in the least visible places (in this case, under the back seat may have allowed you more chances of checking that the metal is predictable in terms of how it responds) and then improving your plan as you progress to the most visible spots. The more you're aware of as you learn, the better your planning will be in future. Good luck with the rest of it - when you're talking about the next panel welding, you can refer back to this one and others to help people build up their knowledge.
You keep saying that your work is not perfect and you seem to poo poo it at times. But, from my perspective, it looks excellent. You're getting it done and isn't that what this is all about? Are you planning on making this car a show contender or are you just planning on a daily driver? I have to say that your car and my VW are in virtually the same condition. I am learning so much from your content and I thank thank thank you. I've been all over Fitzee's content and learned a great deal from that obvious MASTER but your stuff here is VW specific and that's what I need. So, I'm a loyal subscriber and fan. Keep the up the good work. EDIT: I noticed that you've restored your pan before the body. Then it looks like you bolted your heater channels to the pan and then you are fitting the body to the heater channels. This is the opposite of what I had in mind on my car. I would have thought that I should build the heater channels to the body and then mate the body to the pan. Can you tell me if either method is ok, or doing it the way you've done with the heater channels on the pan first, is the way to go. Honestly, I don't know. But, after seeing your video here, I'm thinking you are right and I am wrong. Any suggestions are gratefully accepted. One final thought: I used to have an uncle, when he was living, that was a body/fender man extraordinaire. One of his favorite lessons that he tried to teach others was that, "You cannot get chicken salad from chicken shit." This meant that, restoring old cars was going to be difficult under the best of times and we need to keep that in mind as we work our ways through these projects.
Hi CT, good job and since I've never done this before it looks great to me. Hey, one thing I know is air equipment and without self feed oil in your air compressor lines you need to put a couple drops of A1 oil in your grinders. That's why it's stopping on you. You better do it now before your motor see locks up like a VW motor😁
Have. It watched ina few months. Drove me crazy that you never finsihed anything…looks like you are getting more on track…will start watching again. I’m not a welder, but I have always heard that you should leave the tip over the weld a bit longer. Keeps gas flowing so O2 does. Or hit weld or something like that….
Hi guy, you're doing an amazing job. But We see that you adjust the doors and weld the panels body on jack. What happens when you lower the car and its weight is transferred to the wheels? Always double check the results on and off jack. This is certainly a tedious process until the final steps. Keep ongoing!!
Also CT please be careful that your panels are not too heated with grinding and polishing or you may have warped panels. a bucket of water and a rag works well to cool the panels down as will your air gun.
IF I had a penny for every time I missed on my cut or weld I would be rich. You just make some mistakes and fill in the holes. and use a griner to finish the job. All part of the process.
It’s just metal. Cut it out, weld it up, no problem. Don’t let it scare you, everybody makes mistakes, you just happen to be man enough to show it!😂 . Btw, I would just take that skinny wheel and cut right on that corner that sticks out a little, and then pull the metal where you want it, stick it, then fill if ya have to. Keep it up!👍
I realized that when I had utube premium I had subscribed to your channel CT ... I let my subscription lapse and I had to find your channel again and found that I haven't joined this channel and my views were dropped like I haven't seen any of your shows ... and I have been a fan since you started the dragon... don't know why utube is doing this
Looks like it needs welding again you should try 1” welds with spaces after tacking you should get better results you have an ideal opportunity to take some of your off cuts and practice or even cut some pieces in half and weld back together it will boost your confidence with a few nice welds under your belt good luck.
After stitch welding, hammer the joint a bit on the dolly, that means you heer a hard rebound sound, which will stretch a bit the weld and compensate for heat shrinkage. It's the same if you cut thin stuff with a plasma cutter or torch. Hammer it lightly after cut, right on the edge to compensate for heat shrinkage. 😉 Dammit, you have to look where you're cuttin'.. 😅You were lucky there wasn't a gas line behind... 🤣Also check the back side for penetration, so you have just enough heat. It still makes me wonder why your welds are so surrounded by sooth. You using enough gas? Pre-blow, post blow is right? YOu can set it on the welder. Oh, one more general advice - when grinding, avoid hitting the camera with sparks or you'll destroy the lens. Grinding shootoff is brutal and gets embedded everywhere, also in glass.😇 Othere than that it seems great, just a bit more tuning and you'll be spot on. Keep on, Mr.CT, things are advancing and you're gettin' experience. Cheers! 👍
by welding plate on plate i see others made use an Z form to weld it to each,the Z made they with an air tool,on that methode it welding easy and stronger
That was PERFECT.....you start at the detailed bends and work your way to the less detailed bends.
Thanks Mike! 👍
One tack at a time. Don't rush.
If something is not fitting the way you want there is no problem cutting it off.
Keep the videos coming. Watch your old video on the ghia floor pan. Your welding is coming along more than you think
WELL DONE 👏👏👏
Thanks Dean! 👍
exactly its only metal you can always cut it back off and do it over. not hard.
I like the passion you're putting on it.👍
Thanks Juan!
This kind of work takes a lot of time. If you spent everyday working you may finish it quicker but working people playing with their cars takes a long time. Trying to get it right. The fight is not for the swift but for the one that endures. Great work CT.
Damn somehow I missed this episode! Glad I found it! Man that’s awesome! Great metal work!👌😎👍amazing how well the door closes!
I'm starting to fall in love with this Beetle.
And it's fun to see you working on it!
Keep up the good work!!
Thanks Peter! =)
Nicely dun! BRAVO!! 👏🏽 👏🏽 👏🏽
When I fitted mine, as well as getting the door shut right I ran a straight edge across the bottom of the door so the bottom of the quarter panel lined up. You've done well replacing the bottom door hinge and having the door shut as they are a sod to do! (English phrase!) Great work CT!
Also CT :) yes if was boss say your doing well of job and keeping up happy dance spirits on this project! Yes I enjoy watching your hard efforts and work on this project too plus take steps too !
"TEXAS" says, "Let's get it in"...you got no fear, great to watch your skills progress in leaps & bounds, tanks for sharing
Thank you! =) 👍
CT, it is great to see you taking chances and getting stuff done. You are clearly learning a lot on this car, don’t be discouraged.
Thanks buddy! It's good car to learn on. 😎
@@CTmooga. 😂ktic and clo cdxy t r
Nice shout out you did for Fitzee and Bad Chad. They are quite good...and clearly you're a good learner, man, because you're doing a great job.👍
Thanks Adam! I appreciate that. =)
Just liken to sit here and chill watching your videos. Awesome work every time, and the progress is amazing! One 65 making its way back up. Congrats on your choice of vehicles. Peace out!
Thanks Danny! =)
Thanks for doing these. I've been watching since Rusty
Thanks Tom!
It’s looking awesome buddy you’re doing good keep up the good work 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻god bless 😁
Thanks Antonio!!! 👍
My first two cars were Beetles... a 63 and a 71 ...great cars always ran well...drove. them all over the place here in Victoria Australia as a surfer ...the 63 broke down and had to get an engine rebuild and got battered around a bit by my driving...the 71 was great kept it in great shape , serviced myself and sold it for a profit after about 5 years..takes me back seeing your work ...cheers Patrick
Man, CT your kickin it! So cool to see you pro-gress! I wanna come down and hang out and soak it in. Ha!
Thanks Jed! =)
Never adjust a door whith a car on the jack. Do it when it is done and on its wheels on the floor. Take a tip from an old police mechanic. Or you will do it a 100 times over.
I changed a flat with a cat and exactly what you mention happened to me
Great to see a restoration video showing just how hard it is to get these small areas to line up. I did some welding on a Mini here in England and when it’s complete and primed my mates couldn’t understand why it took so long! Here is the proof. Admire your optimism when sometimes things don’t go to plan. Hope to see the VW in all its glory one day.
Go with your gut you're doing fine 🙂, seeing this beetle come back from the grave awesome
Hi, CT Well executed the new panel padge, your determination and patience are paying off buddy.greetings.HCS
Cut and grind . Dont stop . Get it done!
Thanks buddy!
*Congratulations for your work. May God continue to bless you always 🙏.*
The temporary cross brace is holding the body out a little further than where it should be with all the new metal. Overall amazing job. Well done.
Great work! 👍 //Peter
your work is detailed. you are very good at what you do. congratulations
CT, you're really coming along great. You have come a long way since you first started on Rusty. Keep up the good work.
Excellent project, I'm looking forward to seeing the end although I know it will take a long time. However, I'm waiting for it to evolve.
Every day and week I wait for the post.
I can tell you what soldering and patching takes the longest
Nice…..if you watch Fitzee fabrications videos especially the video on replacing door bottoms and how he cuts the seam on an angle over top of the old sheet metal….it makes welding the seam really good and nice
CT That looking great!
Hey CT, you have a cool UA-cam channel and get to work on some nice vintage cars. I admire your hard work and achievements, well done!
Thanks Philips! =) I appreciate that!
Keep on it brother!! You got this!! Take your time!
Thanks buddy! =)
Can't wait for the next one Buddy. The more you do the better you'll get at it👍
Thanks Tim! 👍
Mate a good thing to do when fitting the new lower quarter panel there is quickly fit the running board back on for a minute, to make sure there's the right gap between the bottom of this panel and the top of the running board - you see SO MANY restored bugs where this hasn't been done (like mine :D) where they've welded the repair quarter panel on, finished, painted the car and only then do they fit the running board and discover a massive gap. Another way to look at is by making sure the line along the bottom of the door is continued neatly by the bottom of the new panel. I know it's a bit late for this side, but you can maybe remember this advice for the other side.
You're doing absolutely great though, you're so inspiring! Keep up the great work and brilliant videos. Regards from UK.
That is really good to know. I noticed that this panel is not even across the bottom. I don't how that happened but I'm going to fix it. I'm doing the passenger side next. I'll get that side looking good then go back and fix the driver side. Thanks for the advice! =)
congratulations on your work keep it up it's a success hug from Lau tapeceiro Matão São Paulo 🇧🇷🇧🇷🙏🙏🙏
Thanks my friend! =)
Look at it as a learning curve good experience for you and it adds up to a nice video for me to watch. Reminds me of the times spent with my grandfather working on an old Triumph sanding and patching
that is truly amazing how much that weld smooths up and looking good
I truly enjoy, The amount of the work, that you show .
I also like the restorations of the beetle
I like what your doing. I would be pretty happy.
Its cool to see you just soaking in what your seeing and doing and learning from it. I see things I like and don't like I see the same mistakes I make too. The Other side will be more matter of fact will go on faster and you will like a little better. Best of all for me is after watching I feel inspired to go out and work on a right rear quarter and channel end cap on my 66, so a big thanks for that!
Cheers
Great job 👍 WOW keep up the awesome work..
Hi My Dear Friend Very Very Good Job ❤❤❤❤❤
Awesome Video CT
that's alot of work but the end result looks great. 😊
nice work, it's a process!
Keep up the great work alway love when a new video on this comes up
Thanks! Will do! =)
If you don't already own one, a Dremel 200 Series Rotary Tool with the EZ Lock 1 1/2" metal cutting discs (Home Depot and Lowe's) comes in handy for cutting those hard-to-reach areas. The 1 1/2" metal cutting discs cut thin and are more precise than the angle grinder metal cutting discs. Your bug is coming along nice. Keep up the good work.
Those Porsche 914s in the background are so sexy. I own a '71 Porsche 914 driver. You will enjoy driving the Porsche 914, and they get lots of attention.
Hey Reggie! Thanks man. Yes, I've been want ing a Dremel for a long time. I think it's time to get one. Yes, the 914 are so cool. can't wait to get one of them on the road. Hopefully soon. are you running fuel injection or carbs?
@@CTmoog I'm running fuel injection. I purchased my 914 from the original owner after it sat in her barn for 30 years. I replaced the thick plastic fuel lines with stainless steel fuel lines, replaced the high pressure fuel hoses, and replaced the fuel filter. Then, my 914 (with 42K original miles) started. The Porsche 914 and 912 are very similar, so I look for the 912 parts and info when I can't find it for the 914.
the way jou welding is always dificult, even for a professional. so i think jou doing a great job👍
Nice work CT as always excellence. 🧐
Está ficando perfeito parabéns 👏
Não sei se o CT fala português. Ele pode não responder. Meu português é muito pobre. Eu falo um pouco por causa do meu espanhol. Eu concordo com você 100%. Acho esse projeto quase perfeito.
Well, and the learning continues, you have got to be the best Coach and Teacher at this and on this video is exactly what I've been working on the rear "B" Pillars ... Thanks
Wow oh my god beautiful 👏👏👏👍👍👍🤩🤩🤩 da hora isso parabéns curtir muito mais mesmo
Tá ficando muito bom show parabéns
Nice job CT. Looking forward to your next update.
I like the monster teeth on youre new welding helmet
I have watched all of your bug videos, there fantastic I'm convinced I need to restore one as a guy in a wheelchair just to prove I can 😄
(So who in the uk is donating a bug to me 😅)
Keep up the good work can't wait to see it going
Very good! Congratulations! 👏🇧🇷
You dont really need the copper.....some places you cant get it behind. It does make it easier. If you just hold the button a shorter time and do more tacks you can build up welds and fill in a huge gap. I do it all the time.
Yeah..a gentle touch and slow heat can stitch it easily...stay around the outside and fill the gap... takes practice and patience to not overheat it and burn through constantly.!! 😆
I use copper and brass when i can though..it does help alot...but sometimes you can't reach or get in there... i use various ways to hold it in if possible..i got normal arms..not some mutant...
I have a suggestion that you may find it easier to remove the weld with very little, (if any) touching the parent metal if you use the grinder laying almost flat onto the peak of the weld but using the side of the wheel from left to right in a sweeping fashion so that the wheel is crossing the weld RATHER than the nose of the wheel in a plunging fashion and digging into the parent and weld. This is a method that I use and it is more controllable. Please this is only a suggestion. I'm Enjoying your video and the way you are improving the welding - keep it it up! Cheers Tony from Middlesbrough UK.
when you have a larger gap it tends to shrink to fill in that gap. Yes you will need to do some hammering on that Wait till yo do those door bottoms. Then you will really see how much it warps.
Thanks
Thanks CT
Thanks groomed! =) I appreciate the help!
Nice job CT, but in my opinion it would be much easier if first you use magnets to prefix new metal patch and before welding put in the lower section self-drill screws to ensure right position of all. Then start welding flat sections and lower points (not all in the same area to avoid tensions.
In any case you have reach great results.
Now that's some serious "Body English!"
Hello. Nice job 👍👍👍👍
I'm a novice too and I think seeing you just get on with it and do the best job you can is an inspiration. With mild steel, you can't be guaranteed that the steel will respond the same (the existing bodywork may have a slightly different performance with heat than the new panel. From what I've read the steel should be 0.9mm thick but there may be some off days at the steel plant and it's a little thinner - is it worth checking with a micrometer before you weld to see if it's the same thickness?). I agree with the guy who said you could have put a brace in at the back and also, when welding a panel like this one, but if you have three people there you can think about doing this type of thing. Getting a tack on either end until the new panel is in place helps and then tacking at equal distances (one or two inches apart seems to be about standard, but in some cases you might tack and check if everything is alright) seems common, this may help assess if the warping of other panels might take place. If you have a plan of how to go around the car, practicing and looking for any unusual performance of the welds so you can start in the least visible places (in this case, under the back seat may have allowed you more chances of checking that the metal is predictable in terms of how it responds) and then improving your plan as you progress to the most visible spots. The more you're aware of as you learn, the better your planning will be in future. Good luck with the rest of it - when you're talking about the next panel welding, you can refer back to this one and others to help people build up their knowledge.
It would be a good idea to use TIG welding
You keep saying that your work is not perfect and you seem to poo poo it at times. But, from my perspective, it looks excellent. You're getting it done and isn't that what this is all about? Are you planning on making this car a show contender or are you just planning on a daily driver?
I have to say that your car and my VW are in virtually the same condition. I am learning so much from your content and I thank thank thank you. I've been all over Fitzee's content and learned a great deal from that obvious MASTER but your stuff here is VW specific and that's what I need. So, I'm a loyal subscriber and fan. Keep the up the good work.
EDIT:
I noticed that you've restored your pan before the body. Then it looks like you bolted your heater channels to the pan and then you are fitting the body to the heater channels. This is the opposite of what I had in mind on my car. I would have thought that I should build the heater channels to the body and then mate the body to the pan. Can you tell me if either method is ok, or doing it the way you've done with the heater channels on the pan first, is the way to go. Honestly, I don't know. But, after seeing your video here, I'm thinking you are right and I am wrong. Any suggestions are gratefully accepted.
One final thought: I used to have an uncle, when he was living, that was a body/fender man extraordinaire. One of his favorite lessons that he tried to teach others was that, "You cannot get chicken salad from chicken shit." This meant that, restoring old cars was going to be difficult under the best of times and we need to keep that in mind as we work our ways through these projects.
Hi CT, good job and since I've never done this before it looks great to me. Hey, one thing I know is air equipment and without self feed oil in your air compressor lines you need to put a couple drops of A1 oil in your grinders. That's why it's stopping on you. You better do it now before your motor see locks up like a VW motor😁
Very very very good
One panel at a time, next thing you know you’re done
CT, if you use a air gun you can cool down all your welding so you can move on faster.
Have. It watched ina few months. Drove me crazy that you never finsihed anything…looks like you are getting more on track…will start watching again. I’m not a welder, but I have always heard that you should leave the tip over the weld a bit longer. Keeps gas flowing so O2 does. Or hit weld or something like that….
Very nice
LOVE THE BUG!!!
Keep it up. 👍
Hi guy, you're doing an amazing job. But We see that you adjust the doors and weld the panels body on jack. What happens when you lower the car and its weight is transferred to the wheels? Always double check the results on and off jack. This is certainly a tedious process until the final steps. Keep ongoing!!
neat clamps I have never seen that
Also CT please be careful that your panels are not too heated with grinding and polishing or you may have warped panels. a bucket of water and a rag works well to cool the panels down as will your air gun.
Pues hay poco a poquito lo vas levantando ese vochito es un gusto q valla lento el proceso pero hay la llevas saludos wuero
A super máquina. 😎💯🏁
Love the content!! Now, put on some welding gloves young man!😂
That's progress when the door closes at any angle
Good job CT you have come a long way. Learn cut and but method to avoide having your welds sink in on but welds.
Looks to cool to me
Thanks!
Yes mate Rome wasn’t built in a day you’re doing fine ….you’ve got good tools
CT by using magnets it would be a third hand & you can weld it all at once.
IF I had a penny for every time I missed on my cut or weld I would be rich. You just make some mistakes and fill in the holes. and use a griner to finish the job. All part of the process.
It’s just metal. Cut it out, weld it up, no problem. Don’t let it scare you, everybody makes mistakes, you just happen to be man enough to show it!😂 . Btw, I would just take that skinny wheel and cut right on that corner that sticks out a little, and then pull the metal where you want it, stick it, then fill if ya have to.
Keep it up!👍
Vamos esperar a próxima etapa, até ficar pronta
Great work mate, make sure you strip that green shit off its a crappy primer to paint over😉👍🏽
Thanks man! I see you have a new project as well. That's a nice one! =)
I'm from Portugal😀
I realized that when I had utube premium I had subscribed to your channel CT ... I let my subscription lapse and I had to find your channel again and found that I haven't joined this channel and my views were dropped like I haven't seen any of your shows ... and I have been a fan since you started the dragon... don't know why utube is doing this
Looks like it needs welding again you should try 1” welds with spaces after tacking you should get better results you have an ideal opportunity to take some of your off cuts and practice or even cut some pieces in half and weld back together it will boost your confidence with a few nice welds under your belt good luck.
Saludos de Monterrey
Hopefully you put rust remover on the body/sandblast the body so you can see how bad it truly is.
Awesome work ct. What are those clamps called that you're using to help weld that panel?
You don’t have to be good at welding…..just good at grinding 👍🏻😂
when you weld on the panels you use air on that, is that to cool the metal so it doesnt warp?
After stitch welding, hammer the joint a bit on the dolly, that means you heer a hard rebound sound, which will stretch a bit the weld and compensate for heat shrinkage. It's the same if you cut thin stuff with a plasma cutter or torch. Hammer it lightly after cut, right on the edge to compensate for heat shrinkage. 😉
Dammit, you have to look where you're cuttin'.. 😅You were lucky there wasn't a gas line behind... 🤣Also check the back side for penetration, so you have just enough heat.
It still makes me wonder why your welds are so surrounded by sooth. You using enough gas? Pre-blow, post blow is right? YOu can set it on the welder.
Oh, one more general advice - when grinding, avoid hitting the camera with sparks or you'll destroy the lens. Grinding shootoff is brutal and gets embedded everywhere, also in glass.😇
Othere than that it seems great, just a bit more tuning and you'll be spot on. Keep on, Mr.CT, things are advancing and you're gettin' experience. Cheers! 👍
by welding plate on plate i see others made use an Z form to weld it to each,the Z made they with an air tool,on that methode it welding easy and stronger
Nice work! Does that panoramic helmet give you a little better view of the working area?
Thanks you! Yes it does!