How To Fix a Seized Brake Caliper * Sticking Brake Caliper Repair *
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2020
- How To Fix a Seized Brake Caliper * Sticking Brake Caliper Repair * With Basic tools
I go through a full repair of the sticking caliper on my Civic si Coupe Build. The civic si coupe project has had a caliper that needs freeing off for a while now and the Caliper fix is relatively easy and can be done with basic tools.
Hopefully this video on how to free off a brake caliper helped you out. Also make sure you follow manufacturers guidance on torque specs and all fastenings on reassembly.
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#SeizedBrakeCaliper #StickingBrake #HowToFreeOffABrake
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This video was absolutely wonderful. Normally when I watch how to videos, people talk about everything but the things they are doing or they don’t show which part they are describing at the time. Your video was well made and informative. Thanks
Really appreciate the positive comment thank you!
That scissor jack set up though... dangerous. Should never use a scissor on anything but flat ground.
Definitely helpful information. It may be the solution to what is happening with my vehicle right now. Thank you for making the video.
The way you show the pads sticking and tight and then clean and free is a massive help for guys like me who don't know anything about this stuff. Most helpful - so much better than the videos that slap in new pads - you're a star thanks a million!
Just had to do this over the Christmas period because all garages were shut. This video was very informative and easy to follow. Excellent video gave me the confidence to tackle the job myself and probably saved me a lot of money in garage fees. Huge thanks.
great video homie! very inspiring for my seized caliper haha
Hope you manage to get it sorted mate
Hi mate, thanks for the very informative video as it helps a lot. (Lovely civic btw 👍). I’m having a similar problem with my ep3 as the rear passenger side is starting to stick and is constantly screeching when driving at any speed but is not complete seized yet like on yours. At first, I thought it was my handbrake that was causing the issue so I fully loosened the cable to try and diagnose the issue but obviously wasn’t the issue. I have ordered a calliper rebuild kit and a new set of pads as it had worn thin because of the issue. Hopefully that will sort it as I think the piston is the problem.
Great video buddy!
Really good !
I have same problem with my car. I’m changing the entire calipers and brakes. Not taking any chances.
Excellent video going to do mine now
Nice one cheers Dan 👍
glad your bolt came off easy. I have a T55 bit and a breaker bar won't even get it. kinda stuck with it in my driveway.
Oh no, not good mate, you might have to order a new caliper and take the lot off, if it makes you feel any better I had to put a scaffolding bar on the gfs suzuki swift brake caliper yesterday as I was doing her front discs and pads, it came off thankfully! But it was a questionable moment
@@Dan_AYP thanks for replying. I broke the bit and I’m starting to strip the inside. It’s my dads truck so I’m taking it to mechanic. But thanks.
Helpful mate. Thank you 😊
Thanks fella. I completely replaced my front brakes 6 months ago, got rear pads to go but been putting it off a bit like you as one side is sticking or rubbing. I'm hoping it's just the slide pins as you say, should be nice and easy. But I did notice some surface rust on the exposed parts of the pistons, so it might not be so simple after all (hence me putting it off). I don't want that damaging the internal caliper seals so it's got to be cleaned up before I push them back in. Anyway was just watching a couple vids to refresh my memory, thanks for sharing and wish me luck lol.
Wish you the best of luck 👍 hope its nothing worse than it appears
It’s only easy when it goes like it’s supposed to. My car has been a nightmare to do simple shit like this to it. Can’t find brake parts all the bolts are worn out or missing lol
Thank you for the guide, I have yet to carry out the procedure.
Do any of the nuts and bolts of the calipers need to be torqued in to a specific amount?
Thanks
Thanks very much for this
EXCELLENT!
Hey thanks for making this vid, it was very helpful, to the point, and I been watching a lot of British shows so the accent was cool too 😆
My slider pins seemed to have seized , mine seemed to make a noise when driving a slight ticking noise, hopefully new sliders and a full clean up should fix it! Cheers
Glad I could help 😁👍
Very good vid👌 thanks
Thank you! You can come again 😁
Good video thanks, I have similar issue on my car, just going to replace the pads and discs while it's all off and rusted lol, hoping piston isn't seized
I'll be doing the same and pulling the rear brakes down soon, although for the opposite reason, I think my hand brake is still on furlough...
Haha 😄 like the analogy
You saved my life. I was working on my car for 3 hours. Usually you press on the caliper piston in other cars but the whole time you had to turn it hahaha
Same
Im so confused about what turning it does. In the other video on this, the dude pops the whole piston out and cleans it. So just by turning it and turning it back, that somehow frees it up?
Thanks. Noticed this issue on my Rocky today. Will have a go at fixing it following your instructions.
Cool man, yeah it is usually the slides or the debris in the brake pad guides. If its the cylinder itself then a rebuild kit may be needed or you can get rebuilt exchange calipers at most parts stores 👍
Calipers allways seize up after so long...every car I've ever had at least one has seized my fn2 type r has had 2 at the front & now the near side rear has seized on
I was using a lot of petrol for a small car checked all petrol related things but it turned out to be both front brake calipers sticking. Luckily I didn't spend any money as I watched this and other videos thought no harm in checking and it worked out Thanks 👍👍👍👍👍👍
spot on video :)
Thank you so much
That’s a bad ass rhd civic !!
Thanks man, genuine em1 in the UK hence the rhd 👍😁
Thanks bro
Thanks sir
Did all this, then bought recon ones from GSF for £60 a side.
5 minute job. 😉👌
You, my friend, are a fucking genius. Thank you!!!!!!!!! I watched sooooo many videos that didn’t help me at all. But you nailed it. My man. 💪💪💪❤❤❤
Super‼️
👍😉😀
You can use a 3/8 ratchet to twist the caliper back in.
Thanks for this, Dan. It has just worked a treat for my wife's Honda Jazz - front NS Caliper, although one of the piston rubbers is not as good as the other... Do you happen to know if you can buy just the rubbers and if so, from where please..? Big thanks to you, regardless.
You can get refurbishment kits or just that single seal but, you'd have to get the piston completely out to seat it correctly in the recesses on both the piston and inside of the caliper. Doing this will require you to fully remove the caliper and bleed the brake system afterwards. I'd only go ahead with this if you're confident in your ability. Having air in the system or a leak after assembly can be catastrophic 👍
had same issue with brad new pads and discs, the pads just were too tight to fit in because of build up of rust on the caliper brackets. I ended up having to file down the edges of the pads so they can go in and have a bit of play, now my car wheels don't run hot, got better mpg and don't have to replace new discs every year.
Please clean the caliper and ensure everything is in tolerance. Filing pads shouldn't be the outcome unless your fitting things to your car that aren't meant to be on the car... If it's stock, get the caliper and carriers cleaned back to stock dimensions 👍
is this method are applicable to any car? i've got civic 8th gen.
My breaks were stuck, after putting new rotors on and break pads the pads wouldn't release. Took it for a test drive to see if everything was okay (went to maccas) and noticed it then. I cleaned the clips that hold the breaks in place they were dirty asf. Then put it back together and problem solved. Was so scared it was a f##ked caliper so happy it was just dirty 🙃🙃
When you do that you should switch the rotors and new breaks. The rotor heats up and pads from heat and ruin it all
i recommend bleed the brake while you are at it with one man bleed kit, the rusty brake fluid is being pushed back into the reservoir
Brake fluid doesn't get rusty? It should never be exposed to concentrated water. Its hygroscopic and within a sealed system. if its exposed to moisture it should be fully replaced, a full brake fluid change should be done. But brake fluid doesn't get rusty, rather it goes black as it absorbs moisture. A rusty caliper on the exterior is not cause for a fluid change. Rather a brake fluid tester should be used to measure the water within the fluid.
I just replaced left front caliper on my toyota tundra 2007 but is not releasing the caliper piston
Cheers did the brakes and the left one is sticking stinks and gets mad hot so guess it’s more lube time
My son drove his Honda an the rotor got red hot an the caller weled it to the rotor is there a way he can get it off
What happens when you're rewinding the piston but then that last 3mm doesn't want to wind ???? Currently in a predicament where the piston won't wind all the way not allowing me to fit new pads,
I have a rewind tool no ecu rewind unfortunately
Hitting the caliper assembly with some brake cleaner would be a good idea too
Didn't have any 🤷♂️😂
I have a crazy question..do sticking calipers stick even without you applying the brakes? I'm driving on the hwy and I could feel like my car would slow down like I hit the brakes and a few seconds later my car would resume normal speed again
Yep, stuck down, need cleaning like this guy
yessir, you gotta rebuild that as soon as you can
Ok cool I noticed the abs light came on too..I did a scan and it showed the front right wheel sensor is not reading so I plan to check that out asap too..
Bro did you ever know how to resolve the issue? The exact same thing is happening to me after I did my front brake pads.
@@JonathanGarcia-nu5ifI believe every situation is different..my issues wasn't even the brakes it was a bad computer..after I swap out the ECU no more problems whatsoever..
Pro Tip would be if you use a axle stand like the one you show at 3:20 it would sit much more stable if the security pin would stick out on both sides. so completely from the back to the front through the system. In this way the load on the pin is distributed on two points.
It is all the way though? 😂
What Cain lubricant you can used thank you good jod
I don't really understand how the brakes work. I understand that the brake caliper pushes the brakepads against the brake discs, but when releasing the brakes, what exactly makes the brakepads move back again, so it doesn't stay stuck to the brakedisc?
Think of a bike brake, the pads are very soft on a bike but, you can still hold the pads on or in contact with the rim and its easy to turn still. But then you apply more pressure and its that pressure that increases the friction on the rim. The same applies to a car disc brake, they don't have to push away from the disc as they're much harder of a material and don't have as much friction as rubber bike pads. But work under much, much higher pressures and their for create much more friction. But in normal use, the pads just skim along the disc surface until they physically push the piston back enough for them to move freely. This is known as brake pad knock-back if they push off too far and hinders racing drivers on picking brake points. This isn't an issue in normal road cars as the pads are normally held a little tighter than a race car. But race cars want less friction so have typically less tight pads in the caliper. This is a balancing act though and why you see some drivers testing the brake pedal at the end of a long straight with their left foot just before a big braking point if they're defending or going for the overtake. Hope this all makes sense 👍
Question: a week ago I got my brake pads replaced no rotors just pads. Ever since then my steering wheel has been shaking horribly while driving and while braking. Is it possible that the mechanic seized my caliper due to not installing the new pads correctly? I returned and they said my brake hoses were bad. They replaced those and still …shaking. I’m not sure if he took the brake fluid cap off before compressing the caliper. But my car didn’t shake at all before he put the new pads in.
Shaky brakes under braking, your discs could be warped? If they removed and refit the discs, perhaps they're not seated properly? I could only guess without seeing it or experiencing it. Brake lines if bad should be replaced though but, the lines only carry fluid at pressure to the calipers. They can only do that and wouldn't impact the brake pressure. If one caliper was sticking, you'd have the brakes pulling you to one side or feel the brakes stuck on when rolling to a stop. Again, this is all just a guess from what you've explained. 👍
Yes need new rotors bc the heat caused by sticking caliper has u fortunately transferred to the rotor and warped them. Fix= new rotor
Same car. Problem with front brakes. Calipers completely rebuilt. lock up and won't release after 10 mins driving pedal becomes rock hard.. New discs pistons and ring/boot. Sliders etc.fluids lines and flexible checked ok. Any ideas. Appreciate any advice.
Sounds like a servo issue if they're rock hard? But if they literally stick on and won't release, I've never seen that before on rebuilt calipers on the front. I have on the back as mine failed held on. The cause was the handbrake mechanism within the caliper seizing on under tension as it was loose. - I did a video on it. Hope this helps 👍
hi. if the brake piston is seized is there a easy way to diagnose . like braking and seeing piston move when off the disc ? and also how much does the handbrake cable move when applied? . as my right rear is seized and not sure what i'm looking at when wheel is off .the piston is showing about 5mm out but hard to see . i haven't been able to get the brake caliper off yet also as the rust has corroded the bolt head .cheers
It's not something you can inspect unless you have 2 people and know what you're looking at 👍🏼
not easy then @@Dan_AYP
what does it mean when my brake pedal won’t go down because I’m trying to restore a 1983 Porsche 944 that has been sitting for 6 years outside
How was it seized if u just pulled it off. After removing the bolts with the 12 mil(for me 13) I can’t take it off, I’m assuming that’s called the caliper. The thing u took off after using the 12 mil, mines is stuck after I do the 12mil
So, 'pad goo' is just as good as copper grease, for this kind of job?
I mean, everyone has a trusty go to, mines copper grease as well. Either is fine for this type of work
My piston won't turn fml the boot around the piston is ripped and I broke my "windback" tool. Fun
sometimes it really is just better to spend the $$$ on new parts
@@charnov3813 well, I'm a stubborn idiot 😣 but I got it done
@@JonEhBee how'd you do it dude? My piston won't move
@mugen power I stuck needle nose pliers in there and used a bar to turn it.
I could tell it was the caliper. The other parts were not so bad to cause the wheel to be partly seized. Caliper will get lazy again more than likely. There is likely corrosion on sides of the piston.
I've seen some people remove the caliper piston clean it with spirit and clean all the rubber with white spirit and gotnit working again. What do you think about that?
Thats normally required if your piston itself is sticking. I was worried I'd have to do that with the near side caliper but, thankfully it free-d off. Its certainly more thorough but also takes alot more time as you're going to have to fully remove, dismantle the calipers, bleed the full system and rebuild them. This is on top of the process I did. Also if you tear a seal you'll have the extra expense. Ideally you'd want to replace all the seals if you're going this far and they usually come in a kit 👍
@@Dan_AYP hmm thought I coukd just pinch the line and do them ome by one
Bad idea actually , you should clean brake calipers with brake fluid only , white spirits perish rubbers
Dumb question but seriously asking; do right side driving vehicles need to bleed rear passenger (left side) first, opposite of left driver vehicles that the furthest brake line is rear passenger (right side)?
I guess it would depend which side the master brake cylinder is on in the engine bay. I know a RH drive CRV I worked on recently had the battery on the opposite side to all the US-based LH drive CRV videos I watched. So certainly some component locations are switched, but not all.
@@chocolate_squiggle That makes perfect sense. I've always wondered. And it never seems to get mentioned by anyone lol. In US, I've never worked on vehicle that had furthest brake line that wasn't right rear. And obviously important when bleeding. Thank you very much for the information.
@@herewegofans Can confirm my '03 right-hand drive Toyota Corolla has it's master cylinder on the drivers side - and I just looked up some photos of the same year US corolla and it's also on the drivers side i.e. the opposite side. So I guess for this car at least, the answer is confirmed, we'd definitely bleed a different corner first. But the engine orientation, power steering, airbox etc all looked identical i.e. not switched. Cheers.
It won't matter mate cos the brake line will come from one line off the master cylinder then split each side left and right, as long as u bleed both its fine
Never use a scissor jack on uneven ground
wait so pistons rotate to go in?
Those scissor lifts can potentially be dangerous.
Why not change the discs and pads when you are in there already? They are bad anyway...
should be the same for the front too?
All except handbrake released stuff 👍
Crazy, same car, same problem.
My piston is seized up solid ..so how do l free that ?
You have to get it out of the caliper completely, or exchange the caliper at your local parts shop for a reconditioned caliper 👍
Once its out, Caliper refresh kits are available online alternatively a refurbished caliper as mentioned
I grind my pads ends down so there free to move
I've removed the discs before, that works as well 👍
Is a good indication that brakes calipers are seized, that my steering wheel shakes when I brake at higher speeds, on an ep2 civic sport btw
It might be a warped brake rotor. I had the same shaking while braking issue with a dodge magnum rt and that was the issue
@@michaellapinskas9036 just changed brakes and pads all round, plus my calipers were seized before too. It now does feel as if the brake pedal doesn't go down all the way and is quite tough after pushing it in a bit
@@SHEZXP123 if your brake pedal feels mushy and goes down all the way, its air in the brake line. You can get it out easily with a friend watch a video on youtube.
yessir
Its quite possible that the excess heat from a seized caliper has warped your rotors which would explain the shaking
Good video, but I don’t know why everyone has to add such loud music.
Thanks for the comment, I maintained the peak audio levels but the music is needed unfortunately as without it, it would just be a silent video clip of me doing random things 😂 plus it helps retain the audience with less of an attention span, (people like me 🤷♂️ haha)
I have a Toyota Camry LE 2001 2.2 liter 4 cyl engine . When i was driving it today it smells like a burnt rubber . And the brakes kinda smokes to the passenger tire .and i heard kinda grinding noise when i brake .Iam thinking its my brake pads .I have no experience on this kinda issue . I was gonna change my brake pads . Any good info would be appreciated. Is it also ok to drive my car ?
Do not drive your vehicle with grinding noises when braking. That might be you've worn the brake pads down 100% and that grinding noise is the metal pad backing (all that's left) scoring the brake rotors (i.e. metal on metal). Many resurface rotors when replacing pads but others do not. You'll almost certainly have to if the pads have worn down that badly. It happened to me, now I know better :-)
those rotors look very scored?
What sound does it make if the caliper is damaged ???
Brake calipers don't make sound, the pads might make sound depending on the compound, friction, temperature and then it's of the friction creates a vibration... This isn't really somthing I couldnt comment on without seeing it. If something is loose it would certainly make a bang in use until it eventually became free and failed. Please reach out to a local qualified mechanic if you're having issues.
@@Dan_AYP i did my 4 rotors new and my brake pads new. And is still making sound when i brake. The mechanic now is telling me the rear caliper is sticking so idk
Use lube grease on shims and pads
Looking at his suspension, he's somewhere with salt and rust. In those places the grease collects that grime and seizes your pads. Instead get stainless steel shims that won't rust.
It's great for brake shops though because they get to replace everyone's pads and rotors every 30k.
look like gsr swap
If the bolt head takes a 12mm socket it doesn't make it a 12mm bolt.
Correct, but I'm not going to go full engineer on such a simple video explaining metric fine thread pitches used on Japanese cars 😂
Frozen or sticking brake caliper slides have nothing to do with a frozen or sticking brake caliper , it as the problem states is literally only a issue isolated to the caliper bracket , slide pins and dust boots. Cleaning or even replacing and properly greasing caliper bracket slides or pins without completely cleaning and then honing or sandblasting the hole for the slides in the bracket is only a temporary fix , eventually the corrosion is gonna build back up and cause them pins or slides to stick or flat out freeze once again, I've been doing this shit professionally as a master tech for 19 years now , so just wanna edit your information as it's not necessarily accurate. Most the time that shits not even worth trying to "mend" temporarily to buy more time , especially when remanufactured entire caliper assemblies with the brackets and all hardware are so cheap at most auto parts stores nowadays and it literally with proper knowledge and tools takes no more than 15 minutes to replace a brake caliper and about 5-10 minutes to bleed the brakes and put the wheel back on. It's not even worth the time you spent to try to again as I said "buy yourself time with a failing part". 5-6 days ago I replaced the front right caliper on my mom's 08 accord coupe V6 and complete with all hardware and bracket it cost $75 from the local AutoZone two miles from my house , that's barely over half an hours labor cost at most repair shops , $75 is peanuts nowadays plus it is doing the right job the right way which is to just replace failing parts and not waste time in trying to buy more time buy mending failing parts that are guaranteed to eventually need to be replaced in the end anyway , so why not just do it from the start , Its cheap , it's fast and super simple , and it's actually fixing the problem the correct way and will give you more reliability and trouble free service than mending a part already destined for failure
You are correct in your prognosis with the caliper slides but, this is a diy. Those that don't have access to such equipment (sandblaster and such like) wouldn't be able to complete this work themselves. I appreciate your feedback and do respect your experience. I myself learned everything I know from my father whom is a master tech for over 35 years. The idea of this is to show people its not always the caliper cylinder. The slides and areas the pads make contact can also be the cause of a sticking caliper. In this video I did clear out the slides with a pipe cleaner style drill bit and brake cleaner. Not quite the honing method but, very affordable and anyone can buy these things for cheap. The caliper piston itself also did free off on rotating it back into the caliper, so its not a full disassemble clean and rebuild as it wasn't required. If you are interested I did replace this caliper recently and uploaded that to this channel as well. The symptoms came back and it was due to the caliper piston becoming seized again and the price of a remanufacture piston is, as you say cheap enough. This is not a how to replace a caliper though. And this certainly isn't how to fully rebuild a caliper with new seals, slide pins and the use of expensive equipment. This is a DIY for those that may need it and need to complete this work out of necessity who may not have the fund available to purchase High end equipment or even may not have funds to take their vehicle to a garage.
In summary, please check out my caliper replacement video if thats what you're after? I am curious why you need to look up such a process though if you know how to complete this work and more over, you're looking to replace calipers rather than free them off as the title clearly suggests.
So I think this is what happened to my car. Can someone help me out? So basically all of a sudden when I was driving home from work my car lost alot of power and whenever I let off the gas pedal my car would feel like it was slowing down and it wouldn't even coast. I'd have to rake on the motor just to keep up to speed. Also my brake pedal felt stiffer. I just replaced the master cylinder so I know that's not the problem. Any ideas?
Try heading down a hill. Slap it in neutral. If its slowing down or not picking up speed then it’s definitely dragging somewhere. Usually if u drive it like that for awhile and get out you can tap your fingers on your rims and find out which one it is because it will be hot as fuck. I hope this helped.
@@robertcoury3067 I could definitely get that a try but we're just gonna replace all the rotars and calipers if needed to see if it'll help. But thank you very much! I should try that next time I get this problem
@@breydonsmythe2775 for sure my guy. Best of luck
Should’ve just replaced with new pads and sliders
No need to spend £80 on some performance pads for these small discs of i plan on upgrading the brake size soon
Dude I have no idea why you turned the piston. Just turning it, and then turning it back to how it was, can cause it to move better afterwards?... What ? The dude in the other video popped the thing out and sanded the sides until it was shiny.
Sometimes a full caliper refresh isn't needed and the pistons on the rear wind back as they have a ratchet mechanism internally for the handbrake. With this in mind, simply moving the piston can "free it off" enough to not need a full caliper refurb.
To add, dismantling the caliper can result in seals getting damaged and/or split. This is fine if you have a full set of rubbers to replace them with but if not, you end up with a bricked car until you buy them. Most replacement calipers are also very close to a refurb kit in cost but, you save a lot of time by just buying a replacement caliper. If you want another video showing the caliper teardown and rebuild I believe theres one on a civic ev1 on my channel 👍🏻
It’s really not hard to reach that top bolt in the break caliper (cap) or whatever you call it. Instead of pulling it out and leaving it attached, just unscrew both 12mm bolts. Because her I sit with it stuck half way in and half way out because it’s pretty much seized/suctioned in there like a donkey punch 🥊 and now I have to pound it in gently without bending it, or take it out without bending it. Soooo yeah, who knows, good luck! Lol
Rotea eht
Man you need rotors too lol
This was over a year ago lol
@@Dan_AYP Imagine how they look now 😂
What if my piston isn't winding itself again
once it rewind it manually.
Agreed ,howd u get pass it?
@@whetuification bought a new car lmfao.
Most common reason for a sticky caliper is the brake hoses.
@Dan Donovan. Sorry but hoses causing "sticky caliper" is pretty rare. I've been a mechanic for 52 years and can't remember even one blocked hose. However it is worth considering. Most sticking calipers are pistons stuck in the bores and many are sliding pin problems. As far as pistons being stuck corrosion is one culprit and in the case of phenolic (plastic) pistons they exspand from being in contact with brake fluid. Sanding .005" off those pistons will solve that problem or get new ones, if you prefer.
@@bottmar1 , I've been a mechanic for over 35 years and I've seen a hose causing the caliper to stick many times.
It could be a regional problem.
@Dan Donovan. That is the only thing to relate to is a regional problem. Motorcycles get stuck pistons too and since they are ridden in salt- free conditions it is hard to regionalize them. Of the over 100 vehicles I have owned none have been bad hoses there either but have stuck pistons in the few with problems and only one was a caliper that would not move. Hard to understand your results but I have definitely heard about that hose problem. Take care😀
CrisFix say if you doing repair job for the car You Need Expensive and complicated Tools🤭
for me I repair my car by my self with Simple Tool❤
Dude you need to fix that steering wheel. It’s on the wrong side!!!
It wouldn't fit the other way at all, I think it's just cheap 😅
oohh!! be careful with that jack. I refuse to use those because they can tip over easy. I used to do what you are doing until I jacked up car, walked away to get a tool and heard a loud noise to see the car fall quickly. What happened was the screw that runs the jack up, threads stripped out and it freewheeled causing jack to retract uncontrolled. After that where you would turn the screw, it would move in and out as if it was no longer threaded. Jack was only run up and down about 10 times and never all the way up either. These are in my opinion cheaply made and dangerous.
What a tiny little car being driven by a big muscley guy 😅
But you didn't have a seized caliper. You had seized pads.
But the caliper piston was stiff and did free up on rotating it back into the caliper? The slides were also not as free as they should be. How else would you describe it? Or describe such a sensation of the brakes sticking on?
Strictly speaking, the caliper can't seize as its a solid lump that the piston moves within and that moves on the slides itself.
@@Dan_AYP you're right. I read that wrong.
£10 for new pads, you used the old one? why??????????
Because I'm not replacing the pads? The pads don't need replacing? If they did, I'd do them... I'm freeing off a caliper thats started sticking on one side. So only worked on 1 side. If you fancy doing the other side for me I'll buy the pads though no problem 👍😁 plus, I dont buy crap pads when I replaced them, try £60
@@Dan_AYP happy to change it. Its got uneven wear on it due to sticking calipers
@@ImranKhan-vu9oi i can confirm it was sticking for less than a week with lockdown miles. It wasn't uneven mate. Nothing that normal road use wouldnt have impacted. Plus £10 for pads!? What rubbish do you fit on your car 😂 i like to stop when I press my brakes mate 😂
Sorry but as much as I try to listen to understand ! I could not! What county this English is from!!!!??
😂 Yorkshire
Really??? Its really not that hard to understand 🙄
I was with you till you started playing the bloody music
U talk to much
Why thank you 😘
Hey mate, Im learning myself i replaces the discs and pads and lubed up the caliper slide pins and pulled the piston back but when i took the car a drive the driver side wheel makes a scraping kinda noise and was smoking too and i only went round the block. The brake pedal is hard and have to push it hard to stop.. i dont know if it just bedding in but doesnt seem right ceetainly shouldnt smoke.. checked the piston and ot doesnt seem to go bk on its own..also the car feel likes its restricted like the brakes r still on... thats y it was smoking so is that seized caliper??
Plz help... the car lay off the rd for a year so....can you fix a seized caliper or do u just need to replace it with a new 1 ?
Sean