As a race car fabricator from the UK myself , I do a lot of solid rivet work The general guide from the aircraft industry, is you must have one and a half times the rivet diameter protruding through the parts to be joined, before bucking or squeezing the rivet. I am surprised you don't use a 2 or 3X rivet gun and 3/32 or 1/8 rivet set for Dzus fasteners, we use AN470 rivets all the time.
The vibration withstanding aspect should NEVER be underestimated. I've had 50mm long bolts with tight nuts (dummying up just to hold something in place) that have completely shaken themselves down and off the threads just from an idling engine.
For some reason I've seen the same mistake elsewhere too, but it doesn't make sense... If the plates you're riveting are 5mm thick, you should leave 7,5mm of the rivet to stick out? 😂 1,5 times the thickness of the rivet shank makes MUCH more sense!
I have a school style solid riveted protractor that has came loose from, I assume a loose rivet, and am wondering if there's a way to tighten it up without replacing the buttonhead rivet so the protractor doesn't drift open during use???
I have a squeezer like that and I want to squeeze some solid steel rivets on an AK receiver but I can't really do it... Should I press more or the tool is made only for aluminum rivets? (My rivets are only 4mm thick)
1.5x the rivet diameter sticking out, not 1.5x thickness of the panel, is the correct spec. add washers if you have to build up the thickness to reduce stick-out.
Bingo! I worked building corporate jets for 42 years and have shot or bucked millions of rivets. Now we had the lengths available in 1/16" increments, but occasionally we would cut them with rivet cutters if the length we needed was not available or had an odd stack up of thickness. The only time we used washers is if it was being installed in softer material , like fiberglass to be used as a backer. Most of the time in that case we would use an "A" which is not heat treated and soft, and in our case it is anodized red so they easily recognizable.
Aircraft Tool Supply is one place you can get them. The solid rivets are an aircraft fastener whcih line a kot of aircraft hardware including Dzus fasteners, have been adopted by racers and hot-rodders. the bast place to find the tooling is aircraft supply companies.
Can someone comment on best way to do round rivets on small electronic components. Such as installing tube sockets to my amplifier. I have tight working spaces too. I want the look of round rivets so I don't want to use small screws or standard big box rivets. I want to replicate how the rivets look on the vintantage part I have.
Nice Presentation of the tools Tim. I purchased a setter tool with interchangable heads that can reach as far as 6" in from an edge. More expensive than the single fixed jaw tool but well worth it in my chassis shop. And nothing looks more unprofessional than pop rivets in quarter turn fasteners on body panels. Looks like ASS as you say!
As a race car fabricator from the UK myself , I do a lot of solid rivet work The general guide from the aircraft industry, is you must have one and a half times the rivet diameter protruding through the parts to be joined, before bucking or squeezing the rivet.
I am surprised you don't use a 2 or 3X rivet gun and 3/32 or 1/8 rivet set for Dzus fasteners, we use AN470 rivets all the time.
Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to explain this!
Tim--Thank you for a fantastic and clear explanation on the proper application for these rivets.
The vibration withstanding aspect should NEVER be underestimated. I've had 50mm long bolts with tight nuts (dummying up just to hold something in place) that have completely shaken themselves down and off the threads just from an idling engine.
Should have 1 1/2 times the thickness of the fasteners shank sticking out of the total stack up before squeezing.. love your videos Tim.
Yep, NOT 1.5x the thickness of the parent material. He made a boo-boo on that one.
For some reason I've seen the same mistake elsewhere too, but it doesn't make sense... If the plates you're riveting are 5mm thick, you should leave 7,5mm of the rivet to stick out? 😂 1,5 times the thickness of the rivet shank makes MUCH more sense!
I have a school style solid riveted protractor that has came loose from, I assume a loose rivet, and am wondering if there's a way to tighten it up without replacing the buttonhead rivet so the protractor doesn't drift open during use???
I have a squeezer like that and I want to squeeze some solid steel rivets on an AK receiver but I can't really do it... Should I press more or the tool is made only for aluminum rivets? (My rivets are only 4mm thick)
1.5x the rivet diameter sticking out, not 1.5x thickness of the panel, is the correct spec. add washers if you have to build up the thickness to reduce stick-out.
Bingo! I worked building corporate jets for 42 years and have shot or bucked millions of rivets. Now we had the lengths available in 1/16" increments, but occasionally we would cut them with rivet cutters if the length we needed was not available or had an odd stack up of thickness. The only time we used washers is if it was being installed in softer material , like fiberglass to be used as a backer. Most of the time in that case we would use an "A" which is not heat treated and soft, and in our case it is anodized red so they easily recognizable.
I bet for the pennys it would cost you to use a rivet, you could not have shown us as a example? 🤦♂️😂
Where can I buy a rivet setter like the one you have ?
Aircraft Tool Supply is one place you can get them. The solid rivets are an aircraft fastener whcih line a kot of aircraft hardware including Dzus fasteners, have been adopted by racers and hot-rodders. the bast place to find the tooling is aircraft supply companies.
Can someone comment on best way to do round rivets on small electronic components. Such as installing tube sockets to my amplifier. I have tight working spaces too.
I want the look of round rivets so I don't want to use small screws or standard big box rivets. I want to replicate how the rivets look on the vintantage part I have.
What do you use or recommend for lexan window fasteners?
Would that be a preferred method for fiberglass?
Ye
Super sir
Great video and instruction. Thanks
Great video mate heaps of info
I can make any type any style rivet! Visit ecorse machinery here in Michigan
Air chisel and a bucking bar is the way to go
Well explain .thanks
Watching all your videos really makes me wish I was building a legit race car. I need to rob a bank to buy a nice chassis.
Nice Presentation of the tools Tim.
I purchased a setter tool with interchangable heads that can reach as far as 6" in from an edge.
More expensive than the single fixed jaw tool but well worth it in my chassis shop.
And nothing looks more unprofessional than pop rivets in quarter turn fasteners on body panels. Looks like ASS as you say!
lots of words....no demo
I wish I could afford a race car or even enough to race
If you have a street car and $10, you can bracket race.
Riveting !
Are those tools made by Binford? LOL!
All of that and didn’t drive a single river.
11 minute video - next time, how about you actually USE THE TOOLS you are demonstrating.
🇨🇳🇨🇳🇨🇳🇨🇳🇨🇳🇨🇳🇨🇳🇨🇳
Don't tell me show me.
We are all here because pop rivets suck.
First