Amazing. If you're okay, I can add tips for the third world's armouring beginner: A cheap mallet (between 1/4 and 1/5Kg is fine), with some rawhide from a dog's chewing tow glued with contact cement on it's striking side makes for a great way to start rough forming a piece without leaving marks. For the finer work no one escapes from the polished hammer, a ball-peen like depicted on the video will cover almost all our need (almost, not all, but part of the beginner's fun is learning how to make-do with limited resources) If for some reason you cannot buy rivets neither locally nor online (because importing them is prohibitive, like in my case) 4 or 5mm thick steel nails can do the job. For articulations, leave the head on the outside, making it as flat as possible, for other uses, river with care from the outside (with the ball of a ballpeen hammer) and one can make decent looking domes. Just one piece of advice: nails have rough surfaces so a hammer can have better grip and friction, but one ought to file them so they're plain and shiny. Wood can make decent forming tools and beginner's anvil surface, but better results can be achieved if the wood's hardened with fire (not lightning it on fire, but placing it over bbq or a kitchen's stove for a while), just remember to have a fire extinguisher at hand (and karma makes it so that the better prepared you are for bad things, the least chances bad things happen) Another good anvil replacement is a double T construction beam, and may be even easier to find than train tracks in some places. Both things can be heat treated if one dares, but one must be really sure of how it's done. forming tools unavailable? Hammers can make do (a decent sized ball from a ball-peen hammer can be a round stake), an iron chincel can be a ridge stake (once it's edge was duller with a file), a thick gas pipe can replace (sort of) an anvil's horn for making curves on plates. A cheap dishing surface is a thick cloth bag (maybe multi-layered bag, maybe done with old blue jeans) filled with sand. And alas, the most important thing is having fun, then being pride of what one has done, then hating it while telling yourself "I can do it better" and actually doing it better.
On the note of using hammer heads, also towing brackets (Bolt two near each other for different gaps) and bases sides of empty gas bottles. Essentially, if you need it you will see it around. An old silversmith trick, especially when hammering on the metal (rather than hammering near the metal) on a steel stake use a wooden hammer, on a wooden stake use a steel hammer.
Oh! Oh! I'm not sure how wiling you are to try this, but I'd love to watch you dyeing fabric in authentic medieval ways! I know woad gets you blue dye, onion skins or turmeric get you yellow dye, madder roots for deep reds, carrots make orange, walnut hulls make black, and so on.
I don't know about the onion skins, but stuff dyed with carrots, walnut hulls, spinach leaves, red cabbage, and raspberries don't smell after you wash them. Alternatively, you could just pick dye ingredients that aren't unpleasant smelling in the first place: coffee grounds, cherries, crushed roses + lemon juice. After multiple washings the colors will fade a shade or two, but will never really go away (think of cool-aid stains on a kid's tee-shirt)
Thanks for the simplicity in your video. I'm just now starting to consider moving from leather armor to steel armor and it's mainly the tools and hardware needed that I've been afraid to price 😅. I just found that a 2'x3' cut of 16g sheet steel is only a few $$ at my local hardware, compared to the same size sheet of leather (of significant enough thickness to use for armor) being about 3x that price. (In my case, steel being $14/sheet vs leather being about $60/sheet, both same size). So thank you for showing that one can do this with just basic equipment lol
Centaur Forge if you’re in the US (www.centaurforge.com) They’ve never let me down. The best one is the one you can afford. Anvils tend to be expensive unfortunately. Getting a used one from a garage sale or estate sale or a grandparent would be a close second best option. Quality anvils basically last forever.
it's true you can make armor with inappropriate hammers,anvils,sheet metals. but if you have the drive/talent you could accomplish something. btw, no offense but whenever you say the word anvil, i see wiley coyote.
Amazing. If you're okay, I can add tips for the third world's armouring beginner:
A cheap mallet (between 1/4 and 1/5Kg is fine), with some rawhide from a dog's chewing tow glued with contact cement on it's striking side makes for a great way to start rough forming a piece without leaving marks. For the finer work no one escapes from the polished hammer, a ball-peen like depicted on the video will cover almost all our need (almost, not all, but part of the beginner's fun is learning how to make-do with limited resources)
If for some reason you cannot buy rivets neither locally nor online (because importing them is prohibitive, like in my case) 4 or 5mm thick steel nails can do the job. For articulations, leave the head on the outside, making it as flat as possible, for other uses, river with care from the outside (with the ball of a ballpeen hammer) and one can make decent looking domes. Just one piece of advice: nails have rough surfaces so a hammer can have better grip and friction, but one ought to file them so they're plain and shiny.
Wood can make decent forming tools and beginner's anvil surface, but better results can be achieved if the wood's hardened with fire (not lightning it on fire, but placing it over bbq or a kitchen's stove for a while), just remember to have a fire extinguisher at hand (and karma makes it so that the better prepared you are for bad things, the least chances bad things happen)
Another good anvil replacement is a double T construction beam, and may be even easier to find than train tracks in some places. Both things can be heat treated if one dares, but one must be really sure of how it's done.
forming tools unavailable? Hammers can make do (a decent sized ball from a ball-peen hammer can be a round stake), an iron chincel can be a ridge stake (once it's edge was duller with a file), a thick gas pipe can replace (sort of) an anvil's horn for making curves on plates.
A cheap dishing surface is a thick cloth bag (maybe multi-layered bag, maybe done with old blue jeans) filled with sand.
And alas, the most important thing is having fun, then being pride of what one has done, then hating it while telling yourself "I can do it better" and actually doing it better.
Thank you! These are some wonderful tips.
Like you, I want this little world of medievalist to grow in a healthy way c:
On the note of using hammer heads, also towing brackets (Bolt two near each other for different gaps) and bases sides of empty gas bottles. Essentially, if you need it you will see it around.
An old silversmith trick, especially when hammering on the metal (rather than hammering near the metal) on a steel stake use a wooden hammer, on a wooden stake use a steel hammer.
Oh! Oh! I'm not sure how wiling you are to try this, but I'd love to watch you dyeing fabric in authentic medieval ways! I know woad gets you blue dye, onion skins or turmeric get you yellow dye, madder roots for deep reds, carrots make orange, walnut hulls make black, and so on.
Sounds amazing and I'd love to try. What about the smell...does it wash out?
I don't know about the onion skins, but stuff dyed with carrots, walnut hulls, spinach leaves, red cabbage, and raspberries don't smell after you wash them.
Alternatively, you could just pick dye ingredients that aren't unpleasant smelling in the first place: coffee grounds, cherries, crushed roses + lemon juice. After multiple washings the colors will fade a shade or two, but will never really go away (think of cool-aid stains on a kid's tee-shirt)
I love your anvil!
Thank you so much! I've looked for something like this in ages :)
"There's no way you're gonna form metal without a hammer"
Me: *laughs in bald head*
Thanks for the tutorial
Better know now what I can buy that regret not having it later
Thanks for the simplicity in your video. I'm just now starting to consider moving from leather armor to steel armor and it's mainly the tools and hardware needed that I've been afraid to price 😅. I just found that a 2'x3' cut of 16g sheet steel is only a few $$ at my local hardware, compared to the same size sheet of leather (of significant enough thickness to use for armor) being about 3x that price. (In my case, steel being $14/sheet vs leather being about $60/sheet, both same size).
So thank you for showing that one can do this with just basic equipment lol
good to know!
Could you make a video on how to use some basic foraging tools
R. J. Leahey out of SF Calif works well with us small guys, got tons of other stuff beyond every rivit imaginable.
Thanks for the tip! Just visited their website-it looks really useful. Thanks!!
where should i buy my anvil and what type should i get if that matters
Centaur Forge if you’re in the US (www.centaurforge.com) They’ve never let me down. The best one is the one you can afford. Anvils tend to be expensive unfortunately. Getting a used one from a garage sale or estate sale or a grandparent would be a close second best option. Quality anvils basically last forever.
@@MattsGreatHall thank you so much you just made my shitty day a bit better.
@@MattsGreatHall
True that Im using what from before 1830
Careful with using old and worn-out hammers, as they might break when using them.
hello if anyone sees this i was wandering if mild steel is ok to use
Yes mild steel is great at the beginning since it is very forgiving and easier to form than medium/high carbon steel.
I got aluminum from my scrap bins at work. I wanna make my self a suit forthe ren fair
it's true you can make armor with inappropriate hammers,anvils,sheet metals. but if you have the drive/talent you could accomplish something.
btw, no offense but whenever you say the word anvil, i see wiley coyote.