This very podcast was a real pleasure. Mr H. Jacomet's knowledge is remarkable, a real connoisseur with the finest sense of humour. Mrs S. Glyn stands out not only for her eloquence, but also for the flawless use of words of foreign origins in her speech such as greek. Une vraie joie de vivre.
I tried making a comment, but UA-cam seemed to keep deleting it, so all I'll say is that I love your and Sonya's chemistry. You two obviously love each other, and it's always sweet to see.
Hugo, Sonya - I took your advice. I'm now the owner of two MTM overcoats, one suit, and five shirts. And wow, what a difference. Being both stout and tall, most of my off the rack wardrobe is always either too large or too long or short. Fantastic feeling to finally have something that doesn't look good on me, but really looks GREAT. Thank you for all the inspiration.
Great Video! As an enthusiast of the wider lapel I used to get annoyed that my lapels tended to cover half to 2/3 of my pocket square, and especially that it hid the beautiful fold that I'd spent so much time on. I've since mostly gotten over this and learned to love the little splash of colour peaking out under the lapel. Full disclaimer, though, I've also stopped putting any effort into a fold and just stuff the square in so that enough colour peaks out.
Great dicussion! The too-high button stance has been a problem for 15 years now. I bought a blazer in 2007 that has the button terribly high. I love the Napoleon test. I watched a video where Andrew Ramroop says the button should be at the same height as the elbow. Two weeks ago someone asked me where the button should be, and I told him to reach for the jacket button with his clothes off (no jacket or trousers to influence where the button should be). He reached to exactly the place where it should be. There's a natural thing about the correct button stance.
I love this topic. I studied for a semester the construction of hand made suits at FIT back in the 80's from a master Italian tailor. Every seam was hand stitched and it was incredibly satisfying and I've been fairly obsessed since then of finely made suits. Merci beaucoup!!
Wonderful episode folks! Always happy to listen to how you expound on say just three points into a most enjoyable half hour. Looking forward to the next one as always!
Just had a go at making a jacket myself this week. It's amazing how seeing it come together from bolt of fabric to finished jacket. each stitch you sew is like creating life. I'm sure you're very busy Hugo but you should absolutely give it a go yourself one day, I think it's one of those things that anyone who likes suits should have on their list of things to do
Funny coincidence. I was thinking about the placement level of the active button on a jacket. Instead of this Napoleon method, I had instinctively tried to do the action of closing this famous button. I realized after several attempts that my hand would automatically fall in the same place easily. I concluded that this action could determine the level of fixation of this button. The Napoleon test is a very good option. Thank you
Just back from the cinema watching latest bond movie with glaring collar gaps to one jacket to another! And now I have just started to listen to this amazing talk!
Love you guys, and love the Napoleon test... As much as possible, please show pictures in reference to your conversation, I understand that's very time consuming though. Thank you so much.
I appreciate that the two of you are careful to note that the sartorial details that you examine are not important compared to the problems many people in this world face. It helps to know that you have perspective, and are not oblivious to the true suffering in the world. But, this is a channel that focuses on these matters of menswear and the particular details that separate generic dress clothing, and exceptional fit and look. And one more thing, Hugo. Some of us are not so genetically favored to allow for long hair that covers your collar issues. Bald on top and long in the back is a look so awful that no one would notice your tailoring anyway. ;-)
Can you both tell us more about your glasses and your views on what works and what doesn’t work? Does Hugo have anti-reflective film on his glasses? There was a lot of reflection around 22:17
Thank you for a little pleasant reprieve from the usual Monday headache. Too bad I can’t open a bottle for the occasion. Entertaining and informative as always.
I started noticing the collar gap from learning more about the kimono world, where women are expected to have a collar gap, and the gap is more extreme the younger the woman is. Definitely not "the look" in tailored fashion! I'm so glad that men still have high standards for formalwear. I mostly sew historical womenswear, so the body shapes and collars are quite different. I love menswear, though, and I want to make my husband some 19th (and early 20th) century suits, someday. Not to mention, I definitely want to make myself a morning suit! It's funny, though -- I can do many things, but rolled collars and lapels are still unreasonably scary to me! They're so non-intuitive to me. It's so helpful to get more information, from a wearer's-eye-view!
We have seen the difference in standards between men and women. Respect for your work and never apologize for your sensitivities. Cheers ! ~Sonya & Hugo
I love Hugo's tie and Sonya as always is beautiful. Great video the funny thing is I did not know I had mild scoliosis until I was fitted for my first suit. I actually argued with the tailor, but she was right of course lol. Everyone is asymmetric in all ways, its just a matter of degree. I am lucky mine is mild and doesn't affect my daily life.
Thank you for an excellent video. I purchased a bespoke jacket with the button that’s way too high. I could explain it until your “Napoleon test. I performed that test and the button on that jacket is 2 inches or 5 cm too high. I’ll simply wear it unbuttoned.
Thank you for this. Details are details, and after reading Sonya's article I see these issues all the time. The pocket placement throws so many jackets off. Or the collar where the shirt cannot be seen. Love the little details, I must go and look at your podcast once my wedding is all done. I need more to listen to on these subjects.
Nice to know you are a kindred spirit. New podcasts are already in progress on Patreon and older podcasts available on almost all formats. Thank you so much for listening and appreciating. Cheers! ~Sonya & Hugo
BONSOIR A VOUS DEUX. MERCI POUR CET EPISODE. VOUS ETES ADORABLES ET COMPLICES DANS VOS INTERVENTIONS. CHALLENGE 2022 POUR SONIA,SERA D'INTERVENIR EN FRANÇAIS DANS UN EPISODE DES DISCUSSIONS SARTORIALES. BON WEEK
Mr. Jacomet, question for you that I am not aware if you ever addressed: do you think it is acceptable to wear oxford shoes with a sports coat/odd trousers combination? If so, what kind of oxfords? I would imagine brogues would be less formal than cap toes. Where do you think a well dressed man should avoid oxfords for other shoe types?
I love you show. I find it very informative. My only problem is I don't now when your show is on. I subscribe to several similar shows. Many of those I subscribe to notify me when there show in on. Can you do that too? I really hate to miss you shown. I found the current on Tailored Jackets very helpful.
Dear Josh, thank you for subscribing. I believe the notification option is on your side (you have to allow it, probably in the settings of your subscription to our channel). All our best, Hugo & Sonya
It's very interesting (and very helpful) how you tackle the sartorial world from almost every angle imaginable! This is no surprise as it is difficult to imagine either Hugo or Sonya not being elegant in any time of the day. Which leads me to the question: Did you guys ever consider covering the topic of Pajamas? I've always wondered what Hugo's style is in that regard. -Riyad
I gave myself the intricate work to discern if the new Bonnets are acetate or another material. Anyway, acetate or else, they simply command admiration.
I agree, the button stance has been too high in the last 8…-10 years has been too high. Having a 2 button jacket or 3 buttons to 2 buttons makes one’s chest looks more prominent, usually flattering to a person’s figure!
Dear both, I have been thinking about an aspect of the jacket that is seldom discussed: the inside pockets. After having several bespoke jackets, it finally hit me that inner pockets are very important! Sometimes I have car keys, a wallet and of course the one item we all can’t do without, the cell phone. In my next commission, and I discussed this with my tailor, I want to include a pocket that makes the phone I am carrying almost invisible. Perhaps on the side like a holster. Also a small pocket that is also in located in a place where the wallet or keys are not making an obvious bulge. What are your thoughts on my suggestion? Thank you for the content!
Collar gap trauma! You guys ruined me on that. My poor wife has to hear my commentary on every guy wearing a suit on tv now. But my pet peeve...even before finding you...was the high button stance. UGH. Makes a you man (not me) look like he's wearing a suit his mom bought for him and sent in the mail for him to wear.
Great video but you didn’t touch on jacket length. As a shorter gentlemen it’s always a challenge to get the perfect length, and tailoring to shorten a jacket is difficult as your pockets can become a visual distraction. Thanks as always for your videos
Once got a jacket made with a low breast pocket placement, it really just messed the entire proportion of jacket. Sadly had to get rid off it. Live and learn 🤷♂️
We feel your pain. Hugo has to wear his (low-chest-pocketed) beautiful jacket open, not buttoned. And of course a pocket square is out of the question. Glad you told you story, thanks. ~Sonya
I was very surprised to see Daniel Craig with a collar gap throughout most of his press interviews last week. The amount of money and quality people around him...you'd think they'd fix that. A Tom Ford Collar Gap suit?
Greetings dear Hugo, is that the three piece Cifonelli you once wore in the tailor's atelier and posted on Parisian Gentleman years ago? On the image, you had a cigarette (i guess it was Camel i did smoke before my transfiguration from tobacco). In my opinion, that was utterly Gary Cooperesque, elegant in other words.
You need more examples of your discussion. Talking head are fine, but place pictures at least showing what you are talking about. Nice work and I like the Napoleon test.
It's ok to have a slightly higher buttoning stance IF the trousers are high waisted to match it. This is the true vintage or golden age of Hollywood style and it looks very elegant, in my opinion. Your legs will look longer, that is true. But even if you are tall, this can be ok. If someone were to look at pictures of Cary Grant and James Stewart from this period, who were 6'2" and 6'3" respectively, and tell me they don't look elegant with their high waisted trousers and higher button stances because their legs look too long, I'd say they are either crazy or a liar. But you are absolutely correct, these modern suits with low rise trousers and high button stances look ridiculous, and that is the true problem with it from a tailoring standpoint.
Tailoring job is not easy job you must know about human body structure. .what is back balance first low sholder or square sholder how mach it's 1 stp 2 stp 3 stp ..right sholder down or lefet how mach down. .hight chest ..or hunch back long necks or short neck what is armed thik or thin ..straight hand or bend hands. Thin neck or thik neck how much your calvecalbon up ..from sholder to neck ..
I love you both. I find it a shame you have to keep bringing up how people will think you're being picky and such. Maybe in the grand scheme of the world yes "we" are, but I find this channel is about elevating style above the norm, and if you re interested in doing that, these are sadly the things that will torture you. There's not one thing here that I haven't experienced and is always on my mind when bespeaking suits. I'm just a regular guy in the world and these are very real problems if you're interested in handmade work. Aside from the pesky collar gap, I loved your discussion on button and pocket placement. I remember early in the sartorial journey I had my tailor place the buttoning point on a jacket to be cut between the top of my head and the floor by suggestion of Flusser years back. Because I am "all legs" it ended up being too low, which felt funny and then the pockets ended up being too low compared to the bottom button, which looked very odd. The jacket fit perfectly, but it never felt right and worse the proportions were off. Sadly it went to the goodwill store years later.. I think a good takeaway from this video for many should be that tailors aren't infallible. They are just people like anybody else and sometimes their work can be benefited by an educated client. -Chris
Forgive me if you have gone over this, but I'd love to hear how Sonya navigates bespoke suits as a woman. I recall some woman friends asking me how a woman's suit should fit and I honestly have no clue. Sonya always looks fantastic. She remains looking feminine and stylish in tailored garb and I am curious of her thought process to the proportions and how they may or may not differ from how tailors are so accustomed to fitting men. -Chris
A good chair, a good cognac and your relaxing videos. 👍
This Is A Great Guide To Style; And The Art And Craftsmanship Of Sartorial Style; And Bespoke Tailoring!!!!🦌🦌🦌🦌
I appreciate your level of education and your kind reply. Thank you, ~Sonya
This very podcast was a real pleasure. Mr H. Jacomet's knowledge is remarkable, a real connoisseur with the finest sense of humour. Mrs S. Glyn stands out not only for her eloquence, but also for the flawless use of words of foreign origins in her speech such as greek. Une vraie joie de vivre.
Thank you so much for your kind words. Very encouraging. Hugo & Sonya
I tried making a comment, but UA-cam seemed to keep deleting it, so all I'll say is that I love your and Sonya's chemistry. You two obviously love each other, and it's always sweet to see.
Very strange TMD, as we've seen your comments before. Thank you for your persistence. Cheers ! ~Sonya & Hugo
Hugo, Sonya - I took your advice. I'm now the owner of two MTM overcoats, one suit, and five shirts. And wow, what a difference. Being both stout and tall, most of my off the rack wardrobe is always either too large or too long or short. Fantastic feeling to finally have something that doesn't look good on me, but really looks GREAT. Thank you for all the inspiration.
It's wonder to read about your transformation. Thank you for taking the time to write this inspirational comment ! ~Sonya
I could listen to your podcasts for days without pause! Keep up the good work 🥰
Love from Croatia!
So great to hear and thanks for inspiring us ! ~Sonya & Hugo
Great Video! As an enthusiast of the wider lapel I used to get annoyed that my lapels tended to cover half to 2/3 of my pocket square, and especially that it hid the beautiful fold that I'd spent so much time on. I've since mostly gotten over this and learned to love the little splash of colour peaking out under the lapel. Full disclaimer, though, I've also stopped putting any effort into a fold and just stuff the square in so that enough colour peaks out.
Thanks!
You are very welcome Michael! And thank you so much for your kind gesture of support! Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
In this channel I am used to press the “like” icon even before listen the complete episode! Regards from Brazil 🇧🇷
Great dicussion! The too-high button stance has been a problem for 15 years now. I bought a blazer in 2007 that has the button terribly high. I love the Napoleon test. I watched a video where Andrew Ramroop says the button should be at the same height as the elbow. Two weeks ago someone asked me where the button should be, and I told him to reach for the jacket button with his clothes off (no jacket or trousers to influence where the button should be). He reached to exactly the place where it should be. There's a natural thing about the correct button stance.
Fantastic to see you here, friend and congrats on your recent magazine shoot. We are always happy to know what you have to say ! ~Sonya & Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you Sonya and Hugo!
don't know how I stumbled here but it is interesting. salute the both of you!
Probably the best Sartorial Talk video ever. Right to the heart of where most tailors and brands would like noone to know.
This is high praise---thank you so much ! ~Sonya and Hugo
I love this topic. I studied for a semester the construction of hand made suits at FIT back in the 80's from a master Italian tailor. Every seam was hand stitched and it was incredibly satisfying and I've been fairly obsessed since then of finely made suits. Merci beaucoup!!
Fantastic anecdote, thank you Patricia ! Sonya
Wonderful episode folks! Always happy to listen to how you expound on say just three points into a most enjoyable half hour. Looking forward to the next one as always!
Just had a go at making a jacket myself this week. It's amazing how seeing it come together from bolt of fabric to finished jacket. each stitch you sew is like creating life.
I'm sure you're very busy Hugo but you should absolutely give it a go yourself one day, I think it's one of those things that anyone who likes suits should have on their list of things to do
I'm not opposed to it ! Cheers and respect for giving it a go ! Hugo
Funny coincidence. I was thinking about the placement level of the active button on a jacket. Instead of this Napoleon method, I had instinctively tried to do the action of closing this famous button. I realized after several attempts that my hand would automatically fall in the same place easily. I concluded that this action could determine the level of fixation of this button. The Napoleon test is a very good option. Thank you
thank you so much for the details to be aware of the tailored jacket...
Another amazing Episode:)))
Thank you Andrey! Hugo & Sonya
Its all about details my freind, well done ,,and your both outfit is matching in a great way,,,God bless both of you , Love to you from Cairo.
as an apprentice tailor, your videos keep me inspired!
Just back from the cinema watching latest bond movie with glaring collar gaps to one jacket to another! And now I have just started to listen to this amazing talk!
Insane, but we feel your pain. Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
I'll now be looking for collar gaps! I've thoroughly enjoyed this episode, thank you Hugo and Sonya.
We are so happy you enjoyed. Cheers ! ~Sonya & Hugo
I am getting fitted for my first ever custom suit this week, so perfect timing on this video!
Love you guys, and love the Napoleon test... As much as possible, please show pictures in reference to your conversation, I understand that's very time consuming though. Thank you so much.
I will not look at a jacket the same way again! Thank you for those important things to look for in a well balanced jacket.
You two looking amazing again! thanks for the video
Thank you for videos like this. And Mr. Jacomet, I absolutely LOVE your tie!!
I was thinking just the same!👍
Thank you both---the tie is from Dare in Paris, a new brand. Cheers ! Hugo
That was great! I really look forward to the 'Mysteries of the Tailored Trousers'!
Coming your ways soon ! H & S
I appreciate that the two of you are careful to note that the sartorial details that you examine are not important compared to the problems many people in this world face. It helps to know that you have perspective, and are not oblivious to the true suffering in the world. But, this is a channel that focuses on these matters of menswear and the particular details that separate generic dress clothing, and exceptional fit and look.
And one more thing, Hugo. Some of us are not so genetically favored to allow for long hair that covers your collar issues. Bald on top and long in the back is a look so awful that no one would notice your tailoring anyway. ;-)
Can you both tell us more about your glasses and your views on what works and what doesn’t work? Does Hugo have anti-reflective film on his glasses? There was a lot of reflection around 22:17
Thank you for a little pleasant reprieve from the usual Monday headache.
Too bad I can’t open a bottle for the occasion.
Entertaining and informative as always.
We'll have a bottle for you 😆Thanks for watching ! ~Sonya & Hugo
The synergy is unmistakable. May I be blessed with as beauteous and sagacious a woman as Hugo is with Sonya.
JCO you made us both laugh a little. Thank you so much. ~Sonya & Hugo
Thanks to Sonya! I noticed collar gap very often on other people, my life is not the same anymore. :)
Ahaha, so funny and yet sort of cool. As ever, Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you Sonya 🙂
Hugo, I love this suit! what fabric is that? looks a heavier fabric. The blue and red tie combines perfectly with the grey
I started noticing the collar gap from learning more about the kimono world, where women are expected to have a collar gap, and the gap is more extreme the younger the woman is. Definitely not "the look" in tailored fashion! I'm so glad that men still have high standards for formalwear. I mostly sew historical womenswear, so the body shapes and collars are quite different. I love menswear, though, and I want to make my husband some 19th (and early 20th) century suits, someday. Not to mention, I definitely want to make myself a morning suit! It's funny, though -- I can do many things, but rolled collars and lapels are still unreasonably scary to me! They're so non-intuitive to me. It's so helpful to get more information, from a wearer's-eye-view!
We have seen the difference in standards between men and women. Respect for your work and never apologize for your sensitivities. Cheers ! ~Sonya & Hugo
I love Hugo's tie and Sonya as always is beautiful. Great video the funny thing is I did not know I had mild scoliosis until I was fitted for my first suit. I actually argued with the tailor, but she was right of course lol. Everyone is asymmetric in all ways, its just a matter of degree. I am lucky mine is mild and doesn't affect my daily life.
It's fantastic you are experiencing bespoke with your condition---makes such a difference. ~Sonya & Hugo
Thank you for an excellent video. I purchased a bespoke jacket with the button that’s way too high. I could explain it until your “Napoleon test. I performed that test and the button on that jacket is 2 inches or 5 cm too high. I’ll simply wear it unbuttoned.
You two are just...wonderful.
Hey thanks B ! ~Sonya & Hugo
Thank you for this. Details are details, and after reading Sonya's article I see these issues all the time. The pocket placement throws so many jackets off. Or the collar where the shirt cannot be seen.
Love the little details, I must go and look at your podcast once my wedding is all done. I need more to listen to on these subjects.
Nice to know you are a kindred spirit. New podcasts are already in progress on Patreon and older podcasts available on almost all formats. Thank you so much for listening and appreciating. Cheers! ~Sonya & Hugo
Magnificent Episode!
Thank you Hugo&Sonya
❤️
Our pleasure and glad you're here. ~Sonya & Hugo
Hugo that tie is simply hypnotic! Could you please tell me where to get one similar?
A good magician don't give explanation of his best trick 😉
BONSOIR A VOUS DEUX.
MERCI POUR CET EPISODE.
VOUS ETES ADORABLES ET COMPLICES DANS VOS INTERVENTIONS.
CHALLENGE 2022 POUR SONIA,SERA D'INTERVENIR EN FRANÇAIS DANS UN EPISODE DES DISCUSSIONS SARTORIALES.
BON WEEK
Thank you 🙏 Hugo & Sonya, enjoy your videos so much, extremely informative, helpful and 😎cool!
Thanks!
We are grateful and thanks for saying so ! ~Sonya & Hugo
Mr. Jacomet, question for you that I am not aware if you ever addressed: do you think it is acceptable to wear oxford shoes with a sports coat/odd trousers combination? If so, what kind of oxfords? I would imagine brogues would be less formal than cap toes. Where do you think a well dressed man should avoid oxfords for other shoe types?
I love you show. I find it very informative. My only problem is I don't now when your show is on. I subscribe to several similar shows. Many of those I subscribe to notify me when there show in on. Can you do that too? I really hate to miss you shown. I found the current on Tailored Jackets very helpful.
Dear Josh, thank you for subscribing. I believe the notification option is on your side (you have to allow it, probably in the settings of your subscription to our channel). All our best, Hugo & Sonya
It's very interesting (and very helpful) how you tackle the sartorial world from almost every angle imaginable! This is no surprise as it is difficult to imagine either Hugo or Sonya not being elegant in any time of the day. Which leads me to the question: Did you guys ever consider covering the topic of Pajamas? I've always wondered what Hugo's style is in that regard.
-Riyad
Hugo dreams of Charvet pajamas -- So maybe soon ! Cheers, ~Sonya
I've seldom seen a more beautiful fabric than the one from your suit, Monsieur Hugo! What's the name of it?
I gave myself the intricate work to discern if the new Bonnets are acetate or another material. Anyway, acetate or else, they simply command admiration.
✌🏻👋🏻
I agree, the button stance has been too high in the last 8…-10 years has been too high. Having a 2 button jacket or 3 buttons to 2 buttons makes one’s chest looks more prominent, usually flattering to a person’s figure!
Absolutely right Michael! Hugo
I love these talk. You speak the sartorial gospel!
So glad to read. Cheers ! ~Sonya & Hugo
Dear both, I have been thinking about an aspect of the jacket that is seldom discussed: the inside pockets. After having several bespoke jackets, it finally hit me that inner pockets are very important! Sometimes I have car keys, a wallet and of course the one item we all can’t do without, the cell phone. In my next commission, and I discussed this with my tailor, I want to include a pocket that makes the phone I am carrying almost invisible. Perhaps on the side like a holster. Also a small pocket that is also in located in a place where the wallet or keys are not making an obvious bulge. What are your thoughts on my suggestion? Thank you for the content!
Thanks.
You're very welcome Reza
Loyal Paul Stuart client here: The Phineas Cole line is still very much in existence.
This is the first time I have heard a jacket pocket being referred to as a hip pocket. A hip pocket is normally at the back of a pair of trousers.
Collar gap trauma! You guys ruined me on that. My poor wife has to hear my commentary on every guy wearing a suit on tv now. But my pet peeve...even before finding you...was the high button stance. UGH. Makes a you man (not me) look like he's wearing a suit his mom bought for him and sent in the mail for him to wear.
Indeed ! HA ! Hugo
Hahaha I too have long hair my friend. It does help to hide a lot of problems.
Sartorial splendor
Great video but you didn’t touch on jacket length. As a shorter gentlemen it’s always a challenge to get the perfect length, and tailoring to shorten a jacket is difficult as your pockets can become a visual distraction. Thanks as always for your videos
The Ways to Look Taller video covers your point. Thanks for the reminder. ~Sonya
Once got a jacket made with a low breast pocket placement, it really just messed the entire proportion of jacket. Sadly had to get rid off it. Live and learn 🤷♂️
We feel your pain. Hugo has to wear his (low-chest-pocketed) beautiful jacket open, not buttoned. And of course a pocket square is out of the question. Glad you told you story, thanks. ~Sonya
I was very surprised to see Daniel Craig with a collar gap throughout most of his press interviews last week. The amount of money and quality people around him...you'd think they'd fix that. A Tom Ford Collar Gap suit?
Sonya suit is immaculate!
Thank you very much and greetings from Bourgogne ! ~Sonya
Greetings dear Hugo, is that the three piece Cifonelli you once wore in the tailor's atelier and posted on Parisian Gentleman years ago? On the image, you had a cigarette (i guess it was Camel i did smoke before my transfiguration from tobacco). In my opinion, that was utterly Gary Cooperesque, elegant in other words.
It is the same and thank you for your comment. I too have resorted to a mere electronic cigarette after dinner, with few exceptions. Cheers ! Hugo
I have an asymmetric collar gap on my Marks & Spencer suit. I can only fix it by standing very straight. M.
You need more examples of your discussion. Talking head are fine, but place pictures at least showing what you are talking about. Nice work and I like the Napoleon test.
It's ok to have a slightly higher buttoning stance IF the trousers are high waisted to match it. This is the true vintage or golden age of Hollywood style and it looks very elegant, in my opinion. Your legs will look longer, that is true. But even if you are tall, this can be ok. If someone were to look at pictures of Cary Grant and James Stewart from this period, who were 6'2" and 6'3" respectively, and tell me they don't look elegant with their high waisted trousers and higher button stances because their legs look too long, I'd say they are either crazy or a liar. But you are absolutely correct, these modern suits with low rise trousers and high button stances look ridiculous, and that is the true problem with it from a tailoring standpoint.
Excellent perspective and historical reference on button stance which I truly appreciate ! ~Sonya
Tailoring job is not easy job you must know about human body structure. .what is back balance first low sholder or square sholder how mach it's 1 stp 2 stp 3 stp ..right sholder down or lefet how mach down. .hight chest ..or hunch back long necks or short neck what is armed thik or thin ..straight hand or bend hands. Thin neck or thik neck how much your calvecalbon up ..from sholder to neck ..
Would love a Movie review? Tal mr. ripley, Thomas crown affair 2000, and “Focus” Will Smith etc 😎
Please review men's fashion in the tuxedo world. Oscars? Proper shoes?
Great idea, thank you James ! Hugo and Sonya
Hugo "I'm just French" Jacomet
I love you both. I find it a shame you have to keep bringing up how people will think you're being picky and such. Maybe in the grand scheme of the world yes "we" are, but I find this channel is about elevating style above the norm, and if you re interested in doing that, these are sadly the things that will torture you. There's not one thing here that I haven't experienced and is always on my mind when bespeaking suits. I'm just a regular guy in the world and these are very real problems if you're interested in handmade work. Aside from the pesky collar gap, I loved your discussion on button and pocket placement. I remember early in the sartorial journey I had my tailor place the buttoning point on a jacket to be cut between the top of my head and the floor by suggestion of Flusser years back. Because I am "all legs" it ended up being too low, which felt funny and then the pockets ended up being too low compared to the bottom button, which looked very odd. The jacket fit perfectly, but it never felt right and worse the proportions were off. Sadly it went to the goodwill store years later.. I think a good takeaway from this video for many should be that tailors aren't infallible. They are just people like anybody else and sometimes their work can be benefited by an educated client. -Chris
Forgive me if you have gone over this, but I'd love to hear how Sonya navigates bespoke suits as a woman. I recall some woman friends asking me how a woman's suit should fit and I honestly have no clue. Sonya always looks fantastic. She remains looking feminine and stylish in tailored garb and I am curious of her thought process to the proportions and how they may or may not differ from how tailors are so accustomed to fitting men. -Chris
I am confused by "drinking too much bourgogne wine". :-)
Yes you're right -- it's not possible, haha. Cheers ! Hugo (PS : We live in Bourgogne)
Are the single-breasted 3- and 4- button jackets dead?
So sad. I am bald....Nothing to cover my neck.
Ah, it could be worse---make the most of it. Cheers ! ~Sonya & Hugo
The jacket lasts longer if the collar does not hit the neck.
Hello, yet a "collar gap" would occur if that is the case as described---you can research collar gap and form your own conclusions. Cheers, Sonya
Lindsay Lohan??? Who?? Sorry I'm just French!.... LMMFAO!!!
Ahaaaaa I was hoping the example would make a few eyes widen ! Cheers ! ~Sonya
Hello .. i would really like to know if we could go shirtless with a double breasted blazer.. thank you … i really appreciate you..
Well anything is possible but not that 😂 🙌🏼 Cheers ! ~Sonya (actually I've done it, with a waistcoat though)
Hugo your mum has nothing to see with your posture which is acquiered not genetic generally