Lot of work, but with the cost of bifolds in the store, it's well worth it! Cost me $400 to buy them for my closet and they're cheap as heck. Why are they so expensive anyways?
Is the middle piece notched on the top and the bottom? I’m thinking yes but just checking. And did you end up ripping the boards to 3 inches? Oh and how much do you think they weigh? What is the hardware rated for? Sorry lots of questions.
Notched for sliding that plywood in the middle? Yes, I notched the top and bottom along with the middle vertical boards. Yes it was a 3” rip. I think they are lighter then my original bi-fold doors. So basic hardware will be fine.
My closet opening is a weird measurement something like 44 1/2” wide should I make the bifold doors a total of 22” 11” each section or give more room making them 21 3/4” per side 10 7/8” each ? Thanks
Without being there to see it, I’d go with the 22” (11” each section). You can always shave off a little bit later if you need. Once you have the fit dialed in how you like it, then you can take it apart, paint, stain, barn style it, or whatever cool finish you want to do. :)
Once I bought my hardware, I was able to get a rough idea on how much to subtract from the height and width. Then I took off a 1/4” for in between the two doors. As long as you don’t cut off too much, you can always shave off some as needed. Find your sweet spot and then do your finish work of stain or paint.
How did you produce the tongue on the board using the table saw? I couldn’t understand from the video how you could produce the tounge? can you explain?
Just like making the groove, except for instead of taking material away from the middle of the board, take away from the sides. Have the fence set up to take a blades worth from the outside edge, rip it and then flip it to get the other outside edge. Then move the fence to cut another layer, rip and flip again. Continue that process until it fits into the tongue.
@DakotaBusy - this is very informative video. Could you share some more details on doors attachment to the track. Are these doors hanging by the top track or you also had to put something in the bottom of the doors as well.
The tops of the doors with the side closest to the wall is a pin going into the track to hold the door in place(the pin is spring loaded so you can lift up for removal of the door or for doing adjustments). The hardware for the top of the door that would be closest to the other bifold door if you have two like I had, is a plastic wheel that slides in the track when you open the door. For the bottom I only had hardware on the side closest to the door, and it is a pin hardware that attaches to the floor. It has a wheel that you can spin to adjust the door height. I can put a link to hardware that is similar on amazon below the video. Thanks for watching our video!
Thanks for the video, this is just what I need for a small 1 room guest cabin I'm building with tiny bathroom. I'd love your opinion, sir. Or anyone out out in youtube land who wants to chime in-- I'm building this as a bathroom door, 32 x 75 rough opening. I have some of the material on hand- plenty of good 1x4... BUT do you think it would be worth the extra effort to build this a little beefier, say by ripping a 2x4 down to 1" x 2.5" and then going with 3/8 ply? Would it do a better job of keeping the bathroom sounds out of the living/sleeping area? I'm gonna go for as tight a seal as I can, but I know there will be some gap due to the design. Looking forward to putting your knowledge to use.
I’m not able to finish the video at this exact moment, but this looks incredible!!! Would I be able to replace sliding doors with folding doors? Thanks in advance!
Great looking and informative on how to build. I want mine to open into the room(bathroom in this case), so I would just put the hinges on the opposite side of the door. Correct? Also, my overall width will only be 28", so I do 2 doors at about -14" each.
@@DakotaBusy thanks, and since my opening HAD an existing standard door, I'd remove the stop, clean it up, etc. right? Or can I just leave it on and fit into the opening?
Just cut your boards with 45° cuts on both sides, a little longer than you need.. like a inch or so. Then slowly cut a little at a time until you like your fit. I’d rather make a few tiny cuts and get it perfect. Cutting a scrap piece with a 45° to help get the first board going will help as well.
It will all really depend on the size of the opening for your closest/pantry and the look that you like. I used 1x4’s and ripped them to the size I liked. You will have to send me a pic when you are done.
You can go to your local hardware store and probably find the hardware needed. I picked up the supplies at Home Depot. Here is a link from amazon that has similar hardware from what I used in a 4 door bifold kit. You should be able to find and buy things separate if needed as well. www.amazon.com/dp/B002KFZYDQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_7ESxDbXNJYQEP
First off, thank you for watching our video! Your looking at around $30-40 for the wood and then whatever hardware you want to go with. I used some of the old existing hardware to make it cheaper. You can buy kits that will have all the mounting hardware for around $20 per side. Those kits do not include handles for the doors or the hinges, so those you can buy separate for pretty cheap if you don't re-use the old ones. I think my hinges were like $3 for a pair and my handles were around $2 each. And then of course whatever color paint or stain you want to use. :) Minus the time waiting for wood glue and paint to dry.. I think they took me about 3-4 hrs to do.
may I suggest - get a microphone. or boost the dB in post. I have my Mac at 100% in a quiet office, can hardly hear you. good visual content though. thank you.
If you had a good protective finish perhaps and I would go with a different species of wood if you did try it. Cedar would last longer in the elements.
I just measured the raw opening of the closet, then minus 1” on the top to allow for the channel, and 1/2” on the bottom to allow for the bottom hardware. As for the side measurements, I took off about 1/4” per door panel to allow for hardware and small gap next to the wall. You can always cut more off after you test fit. From there you can follow what I did in the video. I will try to find my sketch I did with the cut list.
I'm a 30+ year professional home builder and have the following comments about your video. 1) waaaayyy too much filming of endless end cuts and manufacturing of tongues and grooves. Film one and skip the rest. 2) did you ever have a table saw rip a chunk of wood out of your hand and drive it into an adjacent wall? That's just what you are asking for by trying to cut the end tongues on the small pieces freehand. Plus the possibility of getting your hand pulled into the blade. DON'T DO IT THAT WAY !!! Use the mitre guide attachment if you don't want to take the time to change to dado blades. With the number you are making, it's probably worth the time. 3) Very nice original drawing and concepttion 4) nice contraption to hold the 1/4" overlays on the panel, great workmanship. 4) sort of a Max Spaulding Special (hack job) in notching out the door to fit over the trim. Cut the trim and do it properly. 5) Shouldn't hold the drill motor freehand to drill the holes for the pivot pins. 6) you didn't mention that the 1/4" panels shouldn't be glued into the tongues, they should be just dry-fit, so the wood, which will inevitably shrink and swell, will have room to move, and not warp your doors. Overall, nice video, just some gentle criticisms for your next project. Keep the ideas coming, son, you are doing well. And stop the begging for subscribers, if you make good videos they will come.
Well someone like me who's never done it before needs to know precision cutting and exactly where and what to do so it was helpful to me thank you anyway
Exactly what I'm looking for.
This is actually exactly what I plan on making and had in mind. Excellent video. I basically plan on copying this!
Subscribed man, I love the idea of the bi fold garage door
nice. just what i was looking for.
They came out great! Getting ready to build a set for my closet was curious if anyone else has done it lol this answered that question!
Thanks! Hope your closet doors turn out great.
Soooo, how many Tarantulas do you have?
I wish I could have those skills and tools. Thanks for the lesson.
Lot of work, but with the cost of bifolds in the store, it's well worth it! Cost me $400 to buy them for my closet and they're cheap as heck. Why are they so expensive anyways?
Amazing job! So happy I found this video.
super helpful, thank you!!
Could this be adapted so that all four panels open to one side? Great job.
I would think you could do that. Just have to make sure your pivoting hardware is secured well to handle the extra weight of all four panels.
Is the middle piece notched on the top and the bottom? I’m thinking yes but just checking. And did you end up ripping the boards to 3 inches? Oh and how much do you think they weigh? What is the hardware rated for? Sorry lots of questions.
Notched for sliding that plywood in the middle? Yes, I notched the top and bottom along with the middle vertical boards. Yes it was a 3” rip. I think they are lighter then my original bi-fold doors. So basic hardware will be fine.
I want to screen in my carport area using old timber doors, for some privacy in our entertainment area, hope it works...I have a vision😊
Nice work!
Thanks Steven!
I enjoyed that, thank you. Also subbed you've got a nice big table saw...endless possibilities,great workmanship
Well done on those doors.
Thank you sir!
My closet opening is a weird measurement something like 44 1/2” wide should I make the bifold doors a total of 22” 11” each section or give more room making them 21 3/4” per side 10 7/8” each ? Thanks
Without being there to see it, I’d go with the 22” (11” each section). You can always shave off a little bit later if you need. Once you have the fit dialed in how you like it, then you can take it apart, paint, stain, barn style it, or whatever cool finish you want to do. :)
Can you explain how you came up with your dimensions? Do you subtract anything from the opening...etc?? THANKS!!
Once I bought my hardware, I was able to get a rough idea on how much to subtract from the height and width. Then I took off a 1/4” for in between the two doors. As long as you don’t cut off too much, you can always shave off some as needed. Find your sweet spot and then do your finish work of stain or paint.
@@DakotaBusy Thank you so much!
How did you produce the tongue on the board using the table saw? I couldn’t understand from the video how you could produce the tounge? can you explain?
Just like making the groove, except for instead of taking material away from the middle of the board, take away from the sides. Have the fence set up to take a blades worth from the outside edge, rip it and then flip it to get the other outside edge. Then move the fence to cut another layer, rip and flip again. Continue that process until it fits into the tongue.
@DakotaBusy - this is very informative video. Could you share some more details on doors attachment to the track. Are these doors hanging by the top track or you also had to put something in the bottom of the doors as well.
The tops of the doors with the side closest to the wall is a pin going into the track to hold the door in place(the pin is spring loaded so you can lift up for removal of the door or for doing adjustments). The hardware for the top of the door that would be closest to the other bifold door if you have two like I had, is a plastic wheel that slides in the track when you open the door. For the bottom I only had hardware on the side closest to the door, and it is a pin hardware that attaches to the floor. It has a wheel that you can spin to adjust the door height. I can put a link to hardware that is similar on amazon below the video. Thanks for watching our video!
The link has been posted. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video, this is just what I need for a small 1 room guest cabin I'm building with tiny bathroom. I'd love your opinion, sir. Or anyone out out in youtube land who wants to chime in-- I'm building this as a bathroom door, 32 x 75 rough opening. I have some of the material on hand- plenty of good 1x4... BUT do you think it would be worth the extra effort to build this a little beefier, say by ripping a 2x4 down to 1" x 2.5" and then going with 3/8 ply? Would it do a better job of keeping the bathroom sounds out of the living/sleeping area? I'm gonna go for as tight a seal as I can, but I know there will be some gap due to the design. Looking forward to putting your knowledge to use.
I would think a little beefier would help with blocking sounds. The bi-fold hardware should have no problems handling that.
Good looking
Can you make outdoor glass/lexan bifold doors or is it possible to use old balcony doors to make it?
If the doors happen to fit the opening, and if you are able to attach the bi fold door hardware, then yes.
I’m not able to finish the video at this exact moment, but this looks incredible!!! Would I be able to replace sliding doors with folding doors? Thanks in advance!
You should be able to, you will just need to swap out the hardware.
DakotaBusy thanks so much! This video was so helpful and amazing so I subbed! Thanks again!
Great looking and informative on how to build. I want mine to open into the room(bathroom in this case), so I would just put the hinges on the opposite side of the door. Correct? Also, my overall width will only be 28", so I do 2 doors at about -14" each.
Yes, just put the hinges on the opposite side. Good luck Gary and thanks for checking out our video!
@@DakotaBusy thanks, and since my opening HAD an existing standard door, I'd remove the stop, clean it up, etc. right? Or can I just leave it on and fit into the opening?
I’d try to install it leaving everything as is first. If you don’t like the looks, then remove it.
Wondering if it would be better to use 2 x 3(1.5 x 2.5) rip it down to correct thickness, and use that?
To rip the 2x3 down to a 1x3?
Interesting way to handle the trim on frame.
Can you show how you cut the miters? I suck at those. My math. It is not strong
Just cut your boards with 45° cuts on both sides, a little longer than you need.. like a inch or so. Then slowly cut a little at a time until you like your fit. I’d rather make a few tiny cuts and get it perfect. Cutting a scrap piece with a 45° to help get the first board going will help as well.
Do you happen to have a list of wood (amount and size needed. I’m looking to do this this weekend!
It will all really depend on the size of the opening for your closest/pantry and the look that you like. I used 1x4’s and ripped them to the size I liked. You will have to send me a pic when you are done.
This is AWESOME!! Definitely subbed!👏😬
Thanks Sarah!
SMART DESIGN BUT DO YOU GIVE BUY LINK FOR THE ROTATING SCREW, CHANNELS AND HINGES.
You can go to your local hardware store and probably find the hardware needed. I picked up the supplies at Home Depot. Here is a link from amazon that has similar hardware from what I used in a 4 door bifold kit.
You should be able to find and buy things separate if needed as well.
www.amazon.com/dp/B002KFZYDQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_7ESxDbXNJYQEP
Awesome video but the saw dust on the carpet is killing me!! LOL
Samantha Dechaume, lol. Just close your eyes during that part of the video. 😊. Thanks for checking out our video!
Just did
I subscribed
Subbed...Hope your brother is feeling better.
Lol. Thanks for subscribing! He is slowly getting better.
subbed. get some rest. Thanks for the video!
These turned out amazing!!! Roughly what could I expect to pay for a set like this to be built?
First off, thank you for watching our video! Your looking at around $30-40 for the wood and then whatever hardware you want to go with. I used some of the old existing hardware to make it cheaper. You can buy kits that will have all the mounting hardware for around $20 per side. Those kits do not include handles for the doors or the hinges, so those you can buy separate for pretty cheap if you don't re-use the old ones. I think my hinges were like $3 for a pair and my handles were around $2 each. And then of course whatever color paint or stain you want to use. :) Minus the time waiting for wood glue and paint to dry.. I think they took me about 3-4 hrs to do.
why dont you show how to do the coner joints holes ?
Joints were just glued. No holes were drilled or screwed.
may I suggest - get a microphone. or boost the dB in post. I have my Mac at 100% in a quiet office, can hardly hear you. good visual content though. thank you.
Sorry Nathan, I did try to crank it up when I edited the video. I will definitely have to invest in a mic. Thanks for checking out the video!
I liked; but one need to have the type of equipment you do to create any miracle. I was hoping a DIY using basic tools.
Can you do these doors for exterior?.
If you had a good protective finish perhaps and I would go with a different species of wood if you did try it. Cedar would last longer in the elements.
ha! didnt even open 'em up at the end, like being told there in fact is no dessert
Lol. Sorry. And now I want cheese cake for some reason...thanks a lot!
So i did 😊 subs already
Do you have a plan list?
It'd be awesome for a newbie to see what the product/price list is.
I just measured the raw opening of the closet, then minus 1” on the top to allow for the channel, and 1/2” on the bottom to allow for the bottom hardware. As for the side measurements, I took off about 1/4” per door panel to allow for hardware and small gap next to the wall. You can always cut more off after you test fit. From there you can follow what I did in the video. I will try to find my sketch I did with the cut list.
I don't know why Americans don't just use millimetres. Pure insanity haha
Lol. I hear ya
I don't have a table saw
I can't. I tried, but I can't watch it. I can't hear your voice, but the background music comes through fine.
I'm a 30+ year professional home builder and have the following comments about your video. 1) waaaayyy too much filming of endless end cuts and manufacturing of tongues and grooves. Film one and skip the rest. 2) did you ever have a table saw rip a chunk of wood out of your hand and drive it into an adjacent wall? That's just what you are asking for by trying to cut the end tongues on the small pieces freehand. Plus the possibility of getting your hand pulled into the blade. DON'T DO IT THAT WAY !!! Use the mitre guide
attachment if you don't want to take the time to change to dado blades. With the number you are making, it's probably worth the time. 3) Very nice original drawing and concepttion 4) nice contraption to hold the 1/4" overlays on the panel, great workmanship. 4) sort of a Max Spaulding Special (hack job) in notching out the door to fit over the trim. Cut the trim and do it properly. 5) Shouldn't hold the drill motor freehand to drill the holes for the pivot pins. 6) you didn't mention that the 1/4" panels shouldn't be glued into the tongues, they should be just dry-fit, so the wood, which will inevitably shrink and swell, will have room to move, and not warp your doors. Overall, nice video, just some gentle criticisms for your next project. Keep the ideas coming, son, you are doing well. And stop the begging for subscribers, if you make good videos they will come.
Thanks for checking out the video Larry!
Well someone like me who's never done it before needs to know precision cutting and exactly where and what to do so it was helpful to me thank you anyway
Thank you Angela
Very bad sound quality. Fab vid though. U made it look so easy.
Thanks for watching Lisa! Yeah, I’m working on getting better video editing software and microphones. I apologize for the crude audio.
To bad it's not done in the metric system
saw dust and carpets don't go together
Lol. No they don’t, but it actually vacuumed up pretty easy.
Thanks for checking out our video!
Sound my man; sound????? Where is it?
There should be sound for the video. I just played it to check and I could hear audio.
how to make bifold doors....NOPE you need a table saw to do this project!
Well get yourself a table saw! :)
@@DakotaBusy yeah totally, with all that money and space I don't have.
Dude the measurements are only specific to you. Get to the point. I dont need to watch you cutt wood.