Just did this on both sides of my 57 Chevy, once the pressure is off, it's fine. The top of the spring sits in a pocket a few inches deep, so unless you can somehow bend the spring totally in half to where it would fly out, it's really simple. The same way putting it back in, there's only a couple inches of space where the spring is exposed, so just slowly jack up the control arm and you're good.
👍🏾 Once the pressure is relieved as you're lowering the jack, the spring becomes virtually harmless. Even if the spring sprung out at the point where the lower control arm is completely free, it wouldn't have the power or the trajectory to seriously injure anyone. I don't know why people don't understand that! 🤷🏾♂️
Yeah I honestly think compressors are more dangerous, its much easier for the compressor to fail than the jack, and the chances are much higher that you'll have the thing in front of your face in its compressed state. Other than that, think the biggest risk is if you're a newbie and didn't get the spring sitting right in the well or control arm. You could always ratchet or bungie strap around it just in case it does fly out there's something to stop it. That doesn't stop my arsehole from clinching when I'm bolting the shocks and swaybar links up though, just thinking about that spring clocking me in the face at full tension XD
This method works great. I've done it on an MGB. As long as you let the jack down slowly, the spring will expand slowly and once it reaches the point where there is no tension and it is not compressed at all, it will just fall out. It's not going to come popping out like a champagne cork - as long as you do it slowly with the jack. They go back in the same way - just put the spring in and slowly raise the jack until everything is in position and bolt it together. It ain't rocket science.
Thanks for the video, helps explain things. I'm have a question about indexing the springs. Do both ends index into the pockets (top and bottom pockets)? I've bought new 5234 springs, and if I index the bottom end of the spring into the pocket, then the top end of the spring does not line up with the top pocket. Thanks, Dave
@@cutterhead13 Agree, they give people a false sense of safety, and when they fail, which they do it's bad news. Doing it this way makes damn sure you are aware of everything you are doing.
@@Reloadeez i also use this tech to loose the balljoints without pullers forks... nothing beats no hospital bills . Using the forces to work for you is the most intelligent way to work
Just did this on both sides of my 57 Chevy, once the pressure is off, it's fine. The top of the spring sits in a pocket a few inches deep, so unless you can somehow bend the spring totally in half to where it would fly out, it's really simple. The same way putting it back in, there's only a couple inches of space where the spring is exposed, so just slowly jack up the control arm and you're good.
Thanks. I'm doing it on my 56 Chevy soon.
My sn95 would like to say thank you
I find it funny that you ended the video without removing the old spring and putting the new back in. I'm guessing it wasn't as easy as you claimed.
👍🏾 Once the pressure is relieved as you're lowering the jack, the spring becomes virtually harmless. Even if the spring sprung out at the point where the lower control arm is completely free, it wouldn't have the power or the trajectory to seriously injure anyone. I don't know why people don't understand that! 🤷🏾♂️
Yeah I honestly think compressors are more dangerous, its much easier for the compressor to fail than the jack, and the chances are much higher that you'll have the thing in front of your face in its compressed state. Other than that, think the biggest risk is if you're a newbie and didn't get the spring sitting right in the well or control arm. You could always ratchet or bungie strap around it just in case it does fly out there's something to stop it. That doesn't stop my arsehole from clinching when I'm bolting the shocks and swaybar links up though, just thinking about that spring clocking me in the face at full tension XD
This method works great. I've done it on an MGB. As long as you let the jack down slowly, the spring will expand slowly and once it reaches the point where there is no tension and it is not compressed at all, it will just fall out. It's not going to come popping out like a champagne cork - as long as you do it slowly with the jack. They go back in the same way - just put the spring in and slowly raise the jack until everything is in position and bolt it together. It ain't rocket science.
You left out some very important information prior to lowering.
Whoa u definitely need a disc conversion lol👀👀👀
I would think the spring would come shooting out but I'm this doing it on my 65 Mustang?
Thanks for the video, helps explain things. I'm have a question about indexing the springs. Do both ends index into the pockets (top and bottom pockets)? I've bought new 5234 springs, and if I index the bottom end of the spring into the pocket, then the top end of the spring does not line up with the top pocket. Thanks, Dave
How do you get the springs back in?
The same way as it is removed.
@@SamFisherK Not quite since you let it fall out taking it out. Replacing it would require positioning, aligning etc
HoO the hLd U get the shock oOt B4 U took coilspring oOt?(thats alk i wanna do)👋
Spring compressors are cheap
And potential safety hasard. This old technique is safer imho
And doesnt cost a dime.
@@cutterhead13 Agree, they give people a false sense of safety, and when they fail, which they do it's bad news. Doing it this way makes damn sure you are aware of everything you are doing.
@@Reloadeez i also use this tech to loose the balljoints without pullers forks... nothing beats no hospital bills . Using the forces to work for you is the most intelligent way to work
But your life is priceless