Thank you sir. I had bought a 4 sided strop and put my benchmade 940 on it and lost my hair shaving edge and couldn't get it back for about a week. I watched this video and realized how to find the right angle and to not press down at all, just let the weight of the blade slide along the appropriate angle. Hair popping sharp again in 5 minutes.
I've been trying to get a razor sharp edge on my Spydercos and my BM Mini Grip for years. I've wasted a lot of money on sharpening gadgets, etc. This video got me into stropping in a big way and put a big 'ole smile on my face and a sharp AF edge on my blades.
Thank you sir. I have an Elk Ridge 555 bushcraft knife and have fine-tune and honed it thanks to your stropping technique. Now, I am able to shave off all kinds of pubes, with ultra-efficiency. My favorite part of the shave is just where the scrotum meets the taint. I to from taint ----------> scrotum, up around from the base of the penish, part-way up the shaft. There is nothing better than getting a professional, ball-tickling shave, after a proper stropping.
I learned years into my knife journey about stropping, I used to just touch up my edge with the highest grit belt on my Ken Onion worksharp but with how much I use my blades and how much they need that, I have taken a noticeable amount of steel off of my Benchmade 940 that was my main EDC. Had the blade replaced and now I have had it in my pocket probably about 180 days over the last year and I just touch it up every few days of use and I haven't had to sharpen yet. That is only s30v. With m390 I can go even longer and something like s110v... well my para2 in s110v is 3 years old and hasn't seen a stone. The worksharp still gets used for reprofiling and fixing the edges on my outdoor knives when they are chipped to shit but usually a good strop can save a knife a TON of wear.
I know this is an old video but it’s still Awesome!! Just started using a strop, on my work sharp field sharpener. I’ve been making the mistake of using pressure on the strop. I can still shave hair with my blade when I’m done but always felt like I was stropping wrong. Thanks for this video.
Second! Make this "quick video" twice as quick by skipping the first half. Or 75% quicker if you stop at 6:18, when the useful information ends and the slack -jawing resumes.
I'm 100% with you on the idea of not putting pressure when stropping. I'm totally convinced that putting a lot of pressure in stropping is the absolute BEST WAY to dull a blade!
Too much pressure bows the leather under the weight of the blade. In order to strop with pressure you need to compensate for the changes the leather gives with pressure.
This is why I tell someone new to strops to learn with cereal box cardboard. It takes the pressure better, and they can see or feel the edge the same way they are used to from a stone.. which is probably why so many start with too much pressure. Great way to start and if they slip or forget and go edge first or whatever.... nobody is going to cry over nicking their new cardboard. Save the leather for a week and learn the how and why of the wrong moves first hand. Experience is always a good teacher.. but learn the basics in a pickup in the gravel before taking a fragile car out in rushhour traffic.
Stropping is therapeutic. I agree that if you will strop a knife often then you don't have to put it on a stone nearly as often. It only takes five minutes to strop it, so I do it after each use. Thanks for the video. Appreciated!
When you turn the knife as you are lifting it off at an angle, you are basically undoing everything you just did. You always want to stop, then lift and repeat.
@@MrAlwaysRight Basically everything. The most important part in sharpening a knife is keeping the angle as consistent as possible. You can see his wrist change angle on almost every stroke. Honestly, the biggest difference made in the cutting ability of the knife here was cleaning the residue off the edge.
@@Aperson156I think I used to make that mistake. Not sure but my Mora 106 just didn’t seem at its original glory. I think I fixed it after a lot of effort (about to strop now, just looking for info on which side to use compound. I usually go on the suedes side). Yeah I wouldn’t be so careless as he is. I’m always surprised when someone who has been in the trades a long time tells me my blades are sharp. Of course the standards are different between a scandi and basic pocket knife (usually saber?)
You’re flipping up on the tip pretty hard at the end of your stroke. That will lay the edge over-which was apparent when you tried to get the tip into the paper afterward. To prevent that, stop and lift straight up at the end of your stroke instead of flicking the knife off of the surface.
You dont lift the knife off the strop at all or you will damage it and throw your edge outta whack. You go heel to toe in a X pattern. Only on the 2nd part of your lap you go toe to heel never stopping the stroke and you turn the knife to the other side by rolling over on the spline.
@Alexander Supertramp take your own advice moron. If you don't understand, ask for clarification. You proved you don't understand by suggesting he said to keep the knife on the strop forever - of course that isn't what he recommended.
@Tixe 100 barbers use a different kind of strop. Their's is flexible and one end is connected to a fixed point so that you can pull on it to make it taught and relax to make it down it flex. Different techniques.
I push a bit depending on how much I need to adjust the blade, and whip it across the strop without changingthe angle. Rotate at the waist, and keep your arms at the same angles all the way down. 5-10 passes per side, and it's shaving sharp. Did a few minutes on my camping hatchet and it slides through paper like it's nothing. All you need is a little boredom to get really good at this.
Christian Castro it shouldn’t do anything to the metal of the knife. The handle, I would do a test spot, because it does soften some cheaper glue. You don’t need much of the lighter fluid. Just put it on a paper towel or a microfiber and wipe. With more stubborn adhesive on the metal you can put it right on it and let it sit for 30 seconds or a minute. The lighter fluid evaporates so it won’t leave a oil stain like goo gone. I have used lighter fluid to take price tags off of clear plastic action figure bubbles and windows without damaging the clear plastic, and also removed price tags from the action figures cardboard card without leaving a stain. I have removed sap from my car and the siding on my house without damage. I have used it on clothes without damage. Bare wood without damage. Mostly I use it to clean all the gunk off of knife blades and scissor blades. The product I use, and only have used is Ronsonol lighter fuel. It comes in a yellow plastic container. Good luck and remember to do a test spot first on any plastic, rubber, resin areas.
I will strop my blade daily and I might have to sharpen it several months after I've started using it. I carry my knife at all times and I use it a lot every day. In the house remodeling, decks, room additions, etc, etc business I need my knife all the time. I dont abuse it or do stupid shit with it but I don't baby it either.
Wow that's really all it takes with leather? I figured you would have to do that for hours to make any difference because it's Steel versus leather I'm going to have to buy a strop try it out awesome video
Rubbing alcohol does work well for removing much that gunks up the blade as mentioned in the video. As also mentioned, there are chemicals that will remove even more stuff and remove more effectively. 2 of these will be acetone and xylene, both available in Home Depot and similar places. Do use with some caution though. I don't *think* they will harm any steel, but I cannot guarantee they won't. And they are more flammable than rubbing alcohol is.
i got a zt 0350 ken onion blade from a yard sale for 50 bux it has stripes and came with the original box and paperwork.....solid knife but how much is it worth?
I came to this conclusion early on but since I’d rather save the money for a good useable tool I simply tape a couple paint sticks together a tape a piece of emery clothe or wet/dry on each side and recurves couldn’t be easier or cheaper.I don’t get putting hundreds of dollars into all the crazy concoctions people come up with
Build your own strop, save yourself a ton! It's too bad with todays reasonably-priced folding knives, the mechanism will wear out long before you need to sharpen the knife more than once
Using a catch like that is a horrible idea. Sooner or later, you will cut the strop, even if it's a tiny cut you don't notice at the time. Stropping over this spot them leaves a slight hiccup, and makes stropping work less well. And you're just dead wrong about no pressure. No pressure may clean the edge, but it will not sharpen it, and whether most realize it or not, stropping is sharpening, and you either cut metal just as you do with a stone, or you're wasting your time. A little pressure is ESSENTIAL for control, and more important, for ensuring your edge stays completely uniform. It doesn't take much pressure, but it does take some. This also means you're holding your knife wrong. You should hold your knife the same way you hold it with a stone. Always. It's also complete nonsense to say those "super" steels don't need to be put on a stone. They need it worse than plain old non-"super" steels. Those steels get dull by chipping at the micro level, and if you want until they do get really dull, it will take you FOREVER to get them sharp again, even on a stone. There is no such thing as a "super" steel, and, in fact, most of the so-called "super" steels really are great steels for many things, but make LOUSY blade steel because they absolutely will get far too dull for a strop to help, and when they do, you're in deep trouble unless you're an expert. Think about it. If those steels are so easy to cut that you can keep them sharp by using a strop with no pressure, then it's nonsense to think they won't get dull when cutting hard things with pressure applied. I've seen those steel chip at the micro level just by skinning a large game animal. You can't have it both ways. It's impossible for a strop to cut metal with no pressure, but for that steel to also be so hard, so tough, and so abrasion resistant that real knife work won't make it dull. The only time a strop should be used with no pressure is if you just used a stone, and the knife is already razor sharp, AND if you've already removed the burr. Then all you're doing is using the strop to remove bit of burr and other metal left over from sharpening with the stone, and it doesn't take pressure to do this. But regular stropping simply doesn't work without some pressure. Again, it will clean the edge, but it will not cut metal, and the only way to sharpen anything is by removing metal. That's the very definition of "sharpening". Neither cutting paper nor shaving hair is a true indication of sharpness, but if you have a shaving bevel angle on your knife, and if it comes off the strop unable to shave hair, unable to pop hair, you are using the stop incorrectly. If yu maintain the right angle with each stroke in both directions, or really close to the same angle, and if you apply a LITTLE pressure, you will be able to shave hair EASILY. The simple fact is that anyone who gets a razor edge from a strop by using zero pressure already had a shaving edge, either from the stone, or that just need slight cleaning. That's the thing. A strop is supposed to cut metal, unless you're using a polishing compound only, such as red. Green compound is a CUTTING compound. It doesn't cut a lot of metal, but it does cut some. If it didn't, it wouldn't be sharpening your knife. It takes at least a little pressure to cut metal. The weight of the knife might do it after a few hours, but you shouldn't need more than five to ten strokes on each side to produce a hair-popping edge. Again, if this doesn't happen, you're either using the strop incorrectly, or it's time to use a sharpening stone. Experiment a little. I strongly suggest first using a good sharpening stone to make sure you actually have a razor edge on the knife. If you don't have such an edge, a strop is useless. A strop is used for maintaining an edge, for not allowing it to get dull, not for putting an edge on a knife. Once you know you have a rzor edge, then experiment with the strop. Use a little pressure, and make sure you maintain the exact angle in both directions, and with every stroke. I don't know who told you to use zero pressure when using a strop, but it's very bad advice. All that does is clean an edge, it does not sharpen it.
So how would you recommend finding the proper angle when stropping? I've seen and read that you will feel it as you raise the edge from being flat on the strop. I'm just not sure what I'm supposed to feel. I'm never quite sure if my angle is too flat or too upright. Thanks.
Butcher of thirty years, never used a strop. don't even use a stone anymore. I use a diamond oval for the edge every once in a while and a round steel for molding. I take just a few seconds for an hours worth of sharpness. I think people get too obsessed with perfection and absolute sharpness. There is a maintainable point that is sharp enough. My 8 inch granton will serve me for about two-three years using this method and my knives are never dull. We aren't splitting atoms. I would think that someone new to knives might try and take all the information in that is out there but in the workplace at an assembly line speed of production, most of that information is useless.
I always make my knife razor sharp because I don’t know what the future holds but a sharp knife always helps and if it takes even 10 minutes more I’ll do it because it’s well worth it.
You are rolling over the edge instead of the spine. Try it, instead of flicking up at the end of the stroke roll it over the opposite direction and come back. Then you will be able to shave your arm hair. Submitted with respect, no trolling intended.
Without a doubt, this is the simplest, most straightforward instruction I have found regarding how to strop. Thank you, friend!
Thank you sir. I had bought a 4 sided strop and put my benchmade 940 on it and lost my hair shaving edge and couldn't get it back for about a week. I watched this video and realized how to find the right angle and to not press down at all, just let the weight of the blade slide along the appropriate angle. Hair popping sharp again in 5 minutes.
I've been trying to get a razor sharp edge on my Spydercos and my BM Mini Grip for years. I've wasted a lot of money on sharpening gadgets, etc. This video got me into stropping in a big way and put a big 'ole smile on my face and a sharp AF edge on my blades.
watched this last week and had to come back and say thanks, really helped me improve a lot.
I've been having trouble stropping, but your video helped me out a lot. And I've watched a lot of videos about this on UA-cam. Thanks!
Thank you sir. I have an Elk Ridge 555 bushcraft knife and have fine-tune and honed it thanks to your stropping technique. Now, I am able to shave off all kinds of pubes, with ultra-efficiency. My favorite part of the shave is just where the scrotum meets the taint. I to from taint ----------> scrotum, up around from the base of the penish, part-way up the shaft. There is nothing better than getting a professional, ball-tickling shave, after a proper stropping.
"You can't scare me. I have two daughters." LOL
Came for the info, stayed for the laughter!
IKR 🤣🤣🤣 My sisters & I are badass #NavyBrats so it's especially hilarious.
Brilliant vid, the tip about how to get the correct angle is so good, I’m getting a strop soon and I’ll definitely be doing that, cheers pal.
I learned years into my knife journey about stropping, I used to just touch up my edge with the highest grit belt on my Ken Onion worksharp but with how much I use my blades and how much they need that, I have taken a noticeable amount of steel off of my Benchmade 940 that was my main EDC. Had the blade replaced and now I have had it in my pocket probably about 180 days over the last year and I just touch it up every few days of use and I haven't had to sharpen yet. That is only s30v. With m390 I can go even longer and something like s110v... well my para2 in s110v is 3 years old and hasn't seen a stone. The worksharp still gets used for reprofiling and fixing the edges on my outdoor knives when they are chipped to shit but usually a good strop can save a knife a TON of wear.
I know this is an old video but it’s still Awesome!! Just started using a strop, on my work sharp field sharpener. I’ve been making the mistake of using pressure on the strop. I can still shave hair with my blade when I’m done but always felt like I was stropping wrong. Thanks for this video.
Skip all the bs and go straight to 4:15
Second! Make this "quick video" twice as quick by skipping the first half. Or 75% quicker if you stop at 6:18, when the useful information ends and the slack -jawing resumes.
I tip my hat to you, Sir!
Thank you
Looks like you maybe rolling it sat the end of the stroke
Coconuttexe the big mac daddy
Thanks for the lesson…loved hearing the tri-tone train horn in the background!
Great tip on how to find the correct angle! Thanks!
I'm 100% with you on the idea of not putting pressure when stropping. I'm totally convinced that putting a lot of pressure in stropping is the absolute BEST WAY to dull a blade!
Too much pressure bows the leather under the weight of the blade. In order to strop with pressure you need to compensate for the changes the leather gives with pressure.
This is why I tell someone new to strops to learn with cereal box cardboard. It takes the pressure better, and they can see or feel the edge the same way they are used to from a stone.. which is probably why so many start with too much pressure. Great way to start and if they slip or forget and go edge first or whatever.... nobody is going to cry over nicking their new cardboard. Save the leather for a week and learn the how and why of the wrong moves first hand. Experience is always a good teacher.. but learn the basics in a pickup in the gravel before taking a fragile car out in rushhour traffic.
Stropping is therapeutic. I agree that if you will strop a knife often then you don't have to put it on a stone nearly as often. It only takes five minutes to strop it, so I do it after each use. Thanks for the video. Appreciated!
Thanks for the video, good explanation! Your clip just made it to germany 😄
Nice demo. I'm trying to learn.. the push forward to get the correct angle was good. Thank you.
Good video. Proves that with proper technique, that it will work.
When you turn the knife as you are lifting it off at an angle, you are basically undoing everything you just did. You always want to stop, then lift and repeat.
With everything? Or just a leather strop?
@@MrAlwaysRight Basically everything. The most important part in sharpening a knife is keeping the angle as consistent as possible. You can see his wrist change angle on almost every stroke. Honestly, the biggest difference made in the cutting ability of the knife here was cleaning the residue off the edge.
@@Aperson156I think I used to make that mistake. Not sure but my Mora 106 just didn’t seem at its original glory. I think I fixed it after a lot of effort (about to strop now, just looking for info on which side to use compound. I usually go on the suedes side). Yeah I wouldn’t be so careless as he is. I’m always surprised when someone who has been in the trades a long time tells me my blades are sharp. Of course the standards are different between a scandi and basic pocket knife (usually saber?)
I agree, a lot of people try to strop super fast and end up rounding the edge from rolling it
I use good bit of pressure on the strop with a compound, can you say razor blade ---This helps polish the cutting edge.
Brilliant guidance - thank you.
Thank you for the info this is something I look forward to learning
You’re flipping up on the tip pretty hard at the end of your stroke. That will lay the edge over-which was apparent when you tried to get the tip into the paper afterward. To prevent that, stop and lift straight up at the end of your stroke instead of flicking the knife off of the surface.
You dont lift the knife off the strop at all or you will damage it and throw your edge outta whack. You go heel to toe in a X pattern. Only on the 2nd part of your lap you go toe to heel never stopping the stroke and you turn the knife to the other side by rolling over on the spline.
@Alexander Supertramp take your own advice moron. If you don't understand, ask for clarification. You proved you don't understand by suggesting he said to keep the knife on the strop forever - of course that isn't what he recommended.
@Tixe 100 barbers use a different kind of strop. Their's is flexible and one end is connected to a fixed point so that you can pull on it to make it taught and relax to make it down it flex. Different techniques.
Great video, what brand knife is this? Thanks.
Thank you! Bought a whittling kit doesn’t say specifically like this how to keep it sharp this goes more into detail 👌
I push a bit depending on how much I need to adjust the blade, and whip it across the strop without changingthe angle. Rotate at the waist, and keep your arms at the same angles all the way down. 5-10 passes per side, and it's shaving sharp. Did a few minutes on my camping hatchet and it slides through paper like it's nothing. All you need is a little boredom to get really good at this.
Great video
Zippo lighter fluid works amazing to remove tape glue sap etc.
great video👍🏻👍🏻
akaredcrossbow realy?
Will it effect my knife at all
Christian Castro it shouldn’t do anything to the metal of the knife. The handle, I would do a test spot, because it does soften some cheaper glue. You don’t need much of the lighter fluid. Just put it on a paper towel or a microfiber and wipe. With more stubborn adhesive on the metal you can put it right on it and let it sit for 30 seconds or a minute. The lighter fluid evaporates so it won’t leave a oil stain like goo gone. I have used lighter fluid to take price tags off of clear plastic action figure bubbles and windows without damaging the clear plastic, and also removed price tags from the action figures cardboard card without leaving a stain. I have removed sap from my car and the siding on my house without damage. I have used it on clothes without damage. Bare wood without damage. Mostly I use it to clean all the gunk off of knife blades and scissor blades. The product I use, and only have used is Ronsonol lighter fuel. It comes in a yellow plastic container. Good luck and remember to do a test spot first on any plastic, rubber, resin areas.
Yup, i worked at a suit rental company when i was younger, and they used zippo fluid to clean the dress shoes, so it works.
Mineral spirits works even better 💡
I need that big paddle strop!
I will strop my blade daily and I might have to sharpen it several months after I've started using it. I carry my knife at all times and I use it a lot every day. In the house remodeling, decks, room additions, etc, etc business I need my knife all the time. I dont abuse it or do stupid shit with it but I don't baby it either.
I like the t-shirt too
Wow that's really all it takes with leather? I figured you would have to do that for hours to make any difference because it's Steel versus leather I'm going to have to buy a strop try it out awesome video
Dude feel you on that shirt man.
Thank you for sharing this!Much appreciated.I just subscribed your channel 🔪👍
thank you.
finally, a tutorial by someone who knows what pressure to use on a strop
Watching you rock left to right was a kicker . lol
Im glad someone else noticed
4:20 is why you came here, you're welcome!
So I came her on 4/20 for 4:20
Thanks, man!
Rubbing alcohol does work well for removing much that gunks up the blade as mentioned in the video. As also mentioned, there are chemicals that will remove even more stuff and remove more effectively. 2 of these will be acetone and xylene, both available in Home Depot and similar places. Do use with some caution though. I don't *think* they will harm any steel, but I cannot guarantee they won't. And they are more flammable than rubbing alcohol is.
I use a strop often, if you strop your knife in the morning, you rarely have to stone sharpen it, only for lots of use and abuse.
Just wow!
Thanks mate.
Why can’t I find that paddle strop for sale anywhere? I would really like to have one, it looks of great quality
This is a 'fast and dirty' video of how to 'kiss'. It gets my thumbs up. If I only learn one thing ... +++
Awesome thanks
i got a zt 0350 ken onion blade from a yard sale for 50 bux it has stripes and came with the original box and paperwork.....solid knife but how much is it worth?
Depending on condition 100-130
You can skip to the 3 minute mark and Miss Nothing!
Instant like for the t shirt.
Can I just bring them to you for reconditioning?
Thank you, Victor
That’s funny I always drink when sharpening or pretty much doing anything around the house
Love that T-Shirt! Lol!
Great video, thumbs up!
Thanks
Where can i get that leather strop?
Not sure what’s up, but I can’t find any of your strops on your website. Did you guys stop selling them? I used every search option, no joy.
Is it safe to slice meat or fruits after stropping with compound? Or is it all okay to wash with water and soap after?
love the shirt lol thanks for the video
What kind of knife are you stropping there?
The easiest way to get glue and other stickies off your blade is Vegtable oil. I don't know why it works but it rocks.
Or other sticky stuff. If you have stickers, or like tape, they work great.
Olive oil is ideal for tree sap
Hello USA Made Blade. Where can I purchase a good stropping as you have here?
Strops are not listed on your website.
Great video! Thanks!
Love the shirt whitty
You use green compound, have you tried Jeweler's Rouge? Apparently a lot of people use that.
Get a good ole strop. 20 bucks. Awesome compound and great lil strop
What is this exact knife called?
Which strop are you using ?
How do you clean the leather on the stropping paddle? My leather is getting pretty nasty!
Thanks for the tips.
Absolutely strop. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
Whats that green stuff on your strop?
Compound.
That ain't how A.G. Russell does it bud!!!! Lol, just kidding, Great video, awesome T-shirt, right on bud.
Where’d you get the strop?!
Rubbing alcohol? I just use the same 100 proof vodka I put in my fermentation locks for beer and wine. Good video.
Tip: Use Ronsonol instead of rubbing alcohol.
Works better.
Should have talked about compound someone who has never used a strop before would not know what to use.
Love the tee shirt
That was helpful. Thanks!
2 seconds into the video i have to say I love that shirt! Haha! I have just one and jo exactly what you mean!
I spent about a hour on the whet stones then stopped at too much of an angle and rolled over my edge it sucked
I came to this conclusion early on but since I’d rather save the money for a good useable tool I simply tape a couple paint sticks together a tape a piece of emery clothe or wet/dry on each side and recurves couldn’t be easier or cheaper.I don’t get putting hundreds of dollars into all the crazy concoctions people come up with
You missed the part about how to put the compound on the strop, most important part
Nice shirt, my dad has one that says real men make twins
Newest sub!
Notice how his pressure increases as the video goes on
From my understanding this is the stuff flexxx uses to reload strops...www.dlttrading.com/bark-river-1-bar-green-compound
seems like every knife guy just uses them to open boxes
Nice shirt.
Build your own strop, save yourself a ton! It's too bad with todays reasonably-priced folding knives, the mechanism will wear out long before you need to sharpen the knife more than once
A knife is just such a versetile tool, I always have one on me. Exuse my english, not my first language.
Stropped 56 times. 🔪
Starts after 4:16
Using a catch like that is a horrible idea. Sooner or later, you will cut the strop, even if it's a tiny cut you don't notice at the time. Stropping over this spot them leaves a slight hiccup, and makes stropping work less well.
And you're just dead wrong about no pressure. No pressure may clean the edge, but it will not sharpen it, and whether most realize it or not, stropping is sharpening, and you either cut metal just as you do with a stone, or you're wasting your time.
A little pressure is ESSENTIAL for control, and more important, for ensuring your edge stays completely uniform. It doesn't take much pressure, but it does take some. This also means you're holding your knife wrong. You should hold your knife the same way you hold it with a stone. Always.
It's also complete nonsense to say those "super" steels don't need to be put on a stone. They need it worse than plain old non-"super" steels. Those steels get dull by chipping at the micro level, and if you want until they do get really dull, it will take you FOREVER to get them sharp again, even on a stone.
There is no such thing as a "super" steel, and, in fact, most of the so-called "super" steels really are great steels for many things, but make LOUSY blade steel because they absolutely will get far too dull for a strop to help, and when they do, you're in deep trouble unless you're an expert.
Think about it. If those steels are so easy to cut that you can keep them sharp by using a strop with no pressure, then it's nonsense to think they won't get dull when cutting hard things with pressure applied. I've seen those steel chip at the micro level just by skinning a large game animal. You can't have it both ways.
It's impossible for a strop to cut metal with no pressure, but for that steel to also be so hard, so tough, and so abrasion resistant that real knife work won't make it dull.
The only time a strop should be used with no pressure is if you just used a stone, and the knife is already razor sharp, AND if you've already removed the burr. Then all you're doing is using the strop to remove bit of burr and other metal left over from sharpening with the stone, and it doesn't take pressure to do this.
But regular stropping simply doesn't work without some pressure. Again, it will clean the edge, but it will not cut metal, and the only way to sharpen anything is by removing metal. That's the very definition of "sharpening".
Neither cutting paper nor shaving hair is a true indication of sharpness, but if you have a shaving bevel angle on your knife, and if it comes off the strop unable to shave hair, unable to pop hair, you are using the stop incorrectly.
If yu maintain the right angle with each stroke in both directions, or really close to the same angle, and if you apply a LITTLE pressure, you will be able to shave hair EASILY.
The simple fact is that anyone who gets a razor edge from a strop by using zero pressure already had a shaving edge, either from the stone, or that just need slight cleaning.
That's the thing. A strop is supposed to cut metal, unless you're using a polishing compound only, such as red. Green compound is a CUTTING compound. It doesn't cut a lot of metal, but it does cut some. If it didn't, it wouldn't be sharpening your knife. It takes at least a little pressure to cut metal.
The weight of the knife might do it after a few hours, but you shouldn't need more than five to ten strokes on each side to produce a hair-popping edge. Again, if this doesn't happen, you're either using the strop incorrectly, or it's time to use a sharpening stone.
Experiment a little. I strongly suggest first using a good sharpening stone to make sure you actually have a razor edge on the knife. If you don't have such an edge, a strop is useless. A strop is used for maintaining an edge, for not allowing it to get dull, not for putting an edge on a knife.
Once you know you have a rzor edge, then experiment with the strop. Use a little pressure, and make sure you maintain the exact angle in both directions, and with every stroke.
I don't know who told you to use zero pressure when using a strop, but it's very bad advice. All that does is clean an edge, it does not sharpen it.
@BigVinnie Haha!
It was good info, but I'm actually shocked how long I read until I was finally like, "Damn! How long IS this!?"
Thank you for this comment, I've decided to try a strop finally and this video didn't align with anything I've read prior to UA-cam research
So how would you recommend finding the proper angle when stropping? I've seen and read that you will feel it as you raise the edge from being flat on the strop. I'm just not sure what I'm supposed to feel. I'm never quite sure if my angle is too flat or too upright. Thanks.
Butcher of thirty years, never used a strop. don't even use a stone anymore. I use a diamond oval for the edge every once in a while and a round steel for molding. I take just a few seconds for an hours worth of sharpness. I think people get too obsessed with perfection and absolute sharpness. There is a maintainable point that is sharp enough. My 8 inch granton will serve me for about two-three years using this method and my knives are never dull. We aren't splitting atoms. I would think that someone new to knives might try and take all the information in that is out there but in the workplace at an assembly line speed of production, most of that information is useless.
Make ur own video ffs
dang, that rudis strop will run you around 100 bucks or so, think ill make one just like it for 15 to 20 bucks
I always make my knife razor sharp because I don’t know what the future holds but a sharp knife always helps and if it takes even 10 minutes more I’ll do it because it’s well worth it.
Bro I can totally understand. It’s taking care of your stuff.
You are rolling over the edge instead of the spine. Try it, instead of flicking up at the end of the stroke roll it over the opposite direction and come back. Then you will be able to shave your arm hair. Submitted with respect, no trolling intended.
I thought about trying to scare this guy, but he has 2 daughters.
Thank for the demonstration. I never clean a blade with the edge toward my hand @2:40. Cringeworthy...
Didn’t look like he was pressing that hard.
Make it sense that soft pressure?
@@raleeuw what?
5:35 - is it a train in the background?