Hanging Doors Ep.115
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2021
- Enjoy this tutorial on hanging interior doors! Ken Jordan home tour here: • The Friend Who Revolut...
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Thank you, be safe, and be grateful.
If you’ve never hung a door, you have no idea how much skill this guy has. Love it.
I've hung doors. This guy has the skills I need.
doors do not require a lot of skills. Stairs and roofs do however
@@actionjackson9121 stairs and roofs don’t require a lot of skill. Fine cabinetry does however.
I am a life long carpenter as well. I hang doors almost identical as you with one differance. Before I place the frame in the opening, I use a 6 ft Stabila level and check for plumb on the hinge side. I then place shims behind the level at approx. where the hinges will be and nail the shims in place. Usually there will be no need for a set at the top or bottom depending on the opening. Once the level is shimmed and nailed I cut the shims off even with the studs. You now have a perfectly plumb opening that you can now place the door in and know its perfect on the hinge side. The process of plumbing the level takes less than a minute and you no longer struggle with the door jamb. The only thing you need to do know is set the height properly as you skillfully showed your subs and tweek the hinge side if need be so there is no binding with the hinges when fully closed. I have hung hundreds of doors over the past 40 years and this method is very fast and accurate.
This is what I do too. Huge time and frustration savings by pre-shimming hinge side. I never cut the shims off before sliding in the jamb tho, I will now, good idea!
Edit: oh, and I use a 78" stabila
I would guess the main reason not going this was his hinge side was pretty plum?
I always use a 6' level, place 3 1/4"x 3 1/4" x 1/4" blocks on jamb side behind the top and bottom hinge to get jamb side perfect and then work from that.
@@morganwheeler7417 I use one of those too I'm pretty sure they make those just for hanging doors. I still call it a 6' lvl though
The camera's autofocus is getting a workout today lol
It's quiite annoying to be honest. Better to have fixed focus than this. It looks so unprofessional.
Nate needs to send the camera up to AvE for some training
@@anotheruser9876 I think if it was too professional , it just would not give the same vibes
Looked like early Trailer Park Boys
@@moochabi focus you f@$% 🤣 was running through my mind the whole time
14:52 - If I were a door I'd thank you for the compliment
They do make small access doors for knee walls that you can make your opening to but if you've got a custom size for an access panel or odd size for a storage door you can have them built custom or even make them yourself
Killer comment
I watched this moment as I read this comment and almost died from laughter.
Every time I watch your vid's, I learn something. I used to shoot a nail through the shim. Not any more. I see why you do what you do and why I was wrong.
I'd never thought about it until you showed me.
But the best thing is that you don't take 5 hours to explain something that can be explained in 5 seconds.
You don't do a stupid clickbait title. You state your way, just pure plain and honest.
I wish there was more of this. Just honest. Thanks.
Keep Up The Good Work!
Note to self... add Burke bar to door installation kit. Haha! Plumb the hinge side, level the header and you would’ve saved needing the Burke. I always check the floors for level first as well.
Instead of the Burke Bar, which works fine, I pack around a drywall toe kick. Serves the same purpose and allows your hands to stay free for other things.
@@michaele1201 Same here; an almost essential tool
I know you're kidding. The burke bar is obviously way overkill. I've hung 400 pound doors with nothing more than a 14" pry bar or Rixson wrench. Every guy has his favorite tools though.
There is a trick to using rixson wrenches, I use my hammer as a fulcrum. This is for heavy doors only.
@@firesurfer Rixson wrench?
@@spongebobskidmark8257 Look it up. It's a common door tool for closers.
I can tell you, from personal experience, that hanging a door is no joke. It is NOT a quick process. Notice how slow he is going and how much he is checking. It's not because he doesn't know what he's doing. It's because the job, if done right, REQUIRES it. Thank you for taking the time to teach. God bless you.
The time it takes to achieve quality results is relative. The desire to achieve those results is a constant. Scott's commitment to quality is not in question here. Having said that, this procedure could have been performed better and faster.
@@rxcalvosa yeah if that's mostly all you do all day I believe it
Yep. My father in law was a supervisor for a construction company, and usually did all the doors himself.
lol...that is most certainly not the right way to hang a door. Been a finish carpenter for 25 years
@@actionjackson9121 Did seem like a lot of back and fourth and jumbling around. Still better than I could do though! Lol. I love how deep of a construction well this guy is.
Great vid!
Back in the day, my Dad and his friend (both inexperienced home DIY’ers) decided they were gonna partition a section of the house and make it a room for my brother. My Mom was at work and absolutely furious when she came home to the half-ass work trying to make a wall, including wire for outlet, and of course.. the door. The door was the absolute worst of it all. It was a right hand door that did not swing out to the wall, (wall was on the left) but went a whole 180 degrees to the open room. Plus the door was scrubbing against the carpet and was crooked in the door jam so my Dad decided to sand away at the door corner. Yes , the door corner was subject to belt sander. They knew nothing of shims.
When I watch Scott explaining this whole door installation process… I think back to everything wrong with that section of our house which was my brother’s room. Just watching this really brings back those terrible DIY home projects my Dad thought was good😂
I've learned so much from this channel over the years, that has helped me evolve my technique to a point were I'm proud of the work I've done.
Thank you extremely for all you had, still have and will have to teach all of us.
Live long and prosper.
You’re on you way to a million subscribers buddy. Congratulations. Also great videos
OMG, With all love and respect, seeing that burk bar just killed me, I laughed so hard. No question that it will work, but I usually do the same thing with a small step prybar.
I kinda thought the same. I use a drywall toe kick with the same end result.
Use what ya got. lol
And the bigger (broader) it is the less prone to nick the wood it will be! Smaller is not often better ;-)).
The older you get - the more leverage you seek. No offense Scott ;-)
I remember one of the first times I saw the “man in the chair”
But it’s been a while and when this video ended and saw your dear friend I was relieved.
A friend that (although been trough trouble) stays there and is still interested
I bought my first home a few years ago and after seeing the quality home built on this channel it sure does leave me wishing my home was built this well.
A heart on my comment would really make my day. I just want to say that to have this guy do a job for me would be an absolute honor. I would allow him full control over everything. Because you know he is going to do a fantastic job and also you know he is an honest person. This is the epitome of an ideal contractor. A genius in the trades. Priceless in his knowledge. This channel drops nothing but gems over and over again. It must be amazing to have him as a Father.
Thank you for that. Made a huge difference in my life. I appreciate it. Have a great day.
Looks great. I've installed over 1000 doors of all kinds. It's always been my favorite things to do when it comes to production work. I'm addicted to it
I've watched every video on this channel... I'm a general contractor and very detailed guy. Thanks for being well... You! It's refreshing to be a part of. Keep up the good work.
Watching you work reminds me of watching my father work but with much more explanation, thank you. He is a visual learner and so, a visual teacher.
Never had the pleasure of hanging a door on a plum stud. One of these days though...
That’s how most new construction goes. First the foundation guys do a crappy job and the foundation isn’t level. Then the framers do a crappy job and the framing isn’t level or plumb. And so on, until the finish carpenters have to figure out how to install a floor on a radically sloping, uneven surface.
The sun shines, even on a dog's ass, every once in awhile...
...your day will come, my friend 😅
@@twestgard2 lol so true.
I watched as an out of state "contractor " began building a house next to one of ours. Everything up to the framing was pretty sketchy. The framers roll up and I ended up chatting with the lead framer.
I said "are you having any luck squaring up off the foundation? "
He looked at me like I had just grown a horn out of my head. Lol. I watched as each guy walked to a corner, pull 5 and a half and proceed to snap lines. I wouldn't have bought that house for a dollar
@@badlandskid Yeah, can you tell I’m a finish carpenter? I neglected to mention the drywall guys, and to be fair, they’re on the receiving end of the foundation idiots and framing morons, so I have some sympathy, but they also don’t generally do what they can in terms of quality and addressing the defects of prior trades that they’re building over. All speed, no quality. And then I have to charge enough to make it look right, or I lose the job to a lower bidder who just makes crooked lines and hopes nobody notices.
LMAO 🤣
Interesting to see another installer’s methodology.
One thing I also check at each opening prior to starting is the level of the floor. I like to know if the hinge side is starting lower than the strike side.
This comment is one of the most important ones here, especially when hanging doors before hard surfaces. Having framed the home oneself can make the finish process so much easier, but coming into a home as a sub and having to make sure all the heads line up AND the door jambs sit tight to the floor this step is vital.
Yea, you beat me to it, the top doesn’t even matter.
Agree, ck your hinge jamb side and the floor for level. Avoid that carpet drag by putting shim butts under the jambs. Leave the door on the hinges and lock the top jamb in from the strike side.
I am running into B&Bs where the house has a HVAC, but in each room (like a hotel) small window/wall heat pump. So we are making the gap at the bottom of the door 1/4 to 1/2 inch instead of traditional gap. so that the units are not competing, and when the rooms are not in use the doors stay open which allows the central air to stay in control, with easy air flow. Just wondering if anyone running into same issue?
He built the place so...
I’m literally about to swing a Fire Door…Your timing is impeccable 👌👌
I have memories of the director hollering FOCUS! in my headset…
That’s normally AVE’s thing. “Focus, you F**k”. Great channel if you don’t mind dirty jokes, swearing and an abundance of information. (Sorry if you’ve already seen his channel)
@@ryanwilson5222 Imagine the carnage in an AVE video about hanging doors.
I mean the guy knows what he is doing, but sometimes he makes a real effort to not let it show.
Pre plumb hinge side of rough opening with shims stapled or nailed at eyeballed hinge locations. Chuck the pre hung in the hole. Shoot it. Adust from there. If hinge side and door are hanging plumb the slab will tell you what to do.
My favourite part about watching you work Scott is exactly the reason as watching one of my concreting contractors, you’ve been doing your job long enough that you have reached the skill level where every task you do seems thought out and effortless, that it’s almost artistic to watch.
A lot of the fencing I install along highways has a concrete plinth underneath it, generally I subby this work out. My preferred contractor is in his late 50’s and has been concreting since he could pick up a screed. You never see him rushing, exerting himself, overworking, hell he hardly cracks sweat most days, but his and his labourers quality and productivity shines well above the other Concretor’s crews half his age (who I also consider to be good at their trade). He’s just been doing it long enough that he just knows where to hit, where to screed, and where to place his hand in the most efficient and effective way possible.
Keep up the good work mate.
Lynden Doors right here in Whatcom County!
Thanks EC for supporting PNW suppliers!!
It is so satisfying to watch a master at work. Looking at every detail and tweaking it until it is perfect.
I like to use -a 78-in Level to level the jambs and a 2' level for the head jamb. The 4' ter , is not long enough to level a 6'8 jamb.
Yea, cuz he clearly doesn't know what he's doing. :/
Good to see Mr. Jordan on site.
His operation of a skillsaw is unbelievable ! A master.
And very dangerous
You're easily impressed
It's all about the little lift of the foot at the end of the cut.
This is the one I've been waiting on since it's related to what I do. I work in a door shop as part of a lumber yard making pre-hung interior doors.
I usually just make my hinge jam plumb, then the head jam level, then set the reveal on the strike jam. Easy.
Yes I pre-plumb the jamb side with shims at each hinge location using a 6’ level before installing the jamb. I’ll use a framing square to verify the head jamb, then adjust the strike side after hanging the door.
your videos are priceless! many thanks for all the detail you provide.. I renovated my own house after demo'ing everything almost to do studs. made a lot of mistakes and took me many years to put it together. I wish I had access to such valuable videos back then. Now even the things I thought I had done well first time around, I see I could have done things differently for the better, so I am watching all to prep myself for the next project
You are the Bob Ross of construction. Always enjoy watching your videos.
I like plastic shims for a lot of jobs. I’ve never really liked wood shims though I do use and like wood shakes/shingles. Whether I’m installing an interior or exterior door I always pull a hinge screw and replace it with a longer screw which goes through a shim and into the jam. With exterior doors I like using shakes/shingles as they’ll be the full height of the hinges; I apply some slow set spray adhesive on them before I set them which gives you 15 odd minutes until it starts to set. With out swinging exterior doors and security rated interior doors I also use jam pins, which eliminates the threat of someone removing your hinge pins to open the door; I also install 2 structurally rated screws in each hinge. I also like low expansion spray foam which I use on every exterior door install and even on some interior doors as it provides just a little extra support across the entire jam; while it doesn’t do as much on high quality wood and steel jams as far as support it can make quite a difference on cheaper jams as it provides 100% support along a flimsy jam instead of just where the shims are.
I liked the wood shingles for under the threshold on exterior doors in case the floor wasn’t perfectly level.
What is the slow set adhesive you use?
I like those tips, especially the foam one. Thanks.
Perfect timing! I need to hang a door 18 months from now.
Boy this is great timing. My wife & I were in the Home Depot last weekend & talking about installing new doors. I’m gaining confidence in being a “professional homeowner”, but I think this level of craftsmanship is beyond me right now. This may be one of the few projects that we hire a professional for. There’s nothing more annoying than a misfit door. Great work!
I was a millworker specialist at one of HDs competitors, and I wholeheartedly agree. Doors can be done by a homeowner, but it’s worth the price of having a professional handle the measurement and installation.
Seriously, you can do it. If you have the ability to say, nope, this is wrong, lets try again without getting upset you can do it. Slow and steady will seriously win this race, there are a ton of videos out there, watch them and see what the similarities are so you know the basics. Start with a closet door so you can mess up, pound the nails through (don't pull them out, it will really mess up the jamb) if you need to so you can move things around. This video here is a good start, but there are plenty more out there, like I said, watch multiples.
Lol. " Nothing more annoying than..."
My brain: Dripping faucets, vibrating fans, dirty windows,...
@@thadh4085 Agreed. I guess it depends on the level of experience a homeowner has, but i think hanging a door is well within reach for most people. When i first started, it was just common sense principles from my framing and trim experience. Start by plumbing one end and work your way around, making sure everything is plumb and straight. Theres no pressure, everything can be adjusted and readjusted as many times as you need with your shim packs. Once you do one or two youll get faster and get the hang of it.
9:03
notification:
that's a nice jamb. keep up the good work.
Ahhh.....the most simple of all levers, the inclined plane! Amazing what you can pry apart with simple wedges!
“Cost value decision” that will stay at the forefront of our minds as we begin to design our home build and get closer to the day we start demo on the existing building to excavate for our foundation. Exciting times planning and preparing for the journey of building our legacy to pass on.
As a youth I ran a door machine for a manufacturing company it did all your video explained as well as bevel the door, I will say hanging doors differently is a regional thing, Love your show.
Of all the uses nail guns have for making a better finish project, doors and windows are the clear winner. I'm old enough to remember mangling a few door and window jambs in my younger years with a bad hammer strike or an errant nail that went off into the weeds under the jamb or bent hitting a framing nail.
I would love to work for a guy like you. I'm a licensed plumber worked in the trades my whole life but I've always been fascinated with carpentry. And in every video you can see how truly highly-skilled you are. Thank you for sharing all these videos and your experience
I like to use laser to set all door heads at same elevation, good practice if there is other millwork that might have a reveal to door casings. Also, I tell the door supplier to leave door stop off and it gets set with a credit card as a spacer once door is hung proper, they will also send doors with temp hinges so once house is painted the forever hinges can be swapped in. Always install wood/tile floor finishes before doors, it’ll never look as clean doing floors after.
Exactly how I do it also - the door heads must be all on plane otherwise like you say trims etc will never look right. The credit card spacer is perfect for nailing off the stops too.
What are you talking? Floors before doors for a good finish? Doesn't matter what order you do them in... Its called planning, which means doors set at floor height...
@@mikeznel6048 to each their own I reckon. If your planning on not having a 1/4 round or shoe mold, it's hard to scribe the baseboard to the floor if the finished floor isn't there. Of course, there is a lot of care to be taken if you've got a finished floor and still need to do trim painting tasks🤷
@mikeznel planning is exactly correct, I plan to have the tile start right after sheet rock is installed, finished & primed. The hardwood is delivered at the same time to acclimate to the space. While that's happening, windows are trimmed, crown and ceiling finishes are completed then the flooring is installed. Panel work and base moulding is next, floor shoe is cut to fit, labeled, wrapped up & put aside until after floors are sanded/finished. Then someone can simply go back and install shoe with battery powered brad nailer, minimal chance of damaging flooring.
Great information. Keep up the good work 👍
Good stuff. I usually replace one of the jamb side hinge screws with one that will reach into the framing. And I hate split jambs.
Thank you Scott for paying attention to the floor covering
And having the baseboards and casing the right height
Most guys don't give a shit
to see someone burke a pre hung door is new to me. I completely appreciate the absolute skill and knowledge that this man has. if you don't have a lot of construction experience this may seem pretty rough, but when used properly these can definitely be precision tools. This is one tip I will remember.
I worked on a door shop and primarily ran a nest router CNC milling hardware locations and lite cut outs. Also built the pre hungs and special door orders like double doors and side lite units. As well as installing them here and there. Dabbled in commercial doors but not a lot. I know just about everything there is about interior and exterior doors but there's always something new to learn. You are a truely skilled tradesman. Kudos and great job.
Hands down, this guy is the absolute best. Explains things so well.
Never underestimate the power a wooden wedge or wooden shim can grant a carpenter. And he is VERY confident nailing a frame straight off the bat
Thank you for the video! Doors can be super tricky and this is a really good explanation. Have you ever tried installing the jamb without removing the slab? That's how I was trained on it. We put the whole door in the opening and then tack the corners with a 15 gauge nail. Then we plumb up the hinge side and then make the reveal on the strike side consistent. For production stuff it makes things go pretty quick. Anyways, this is another great video. My almost 1 year old son seems to really enjoy watching your videos!
Lots more to hanging doors than I thought! Never seen Pre- hung doors before. Great to see Ken there supervising! 😀👍🏼👍🏼
It's great to see that Ralphie from the Christmas Story got into the trades when he grew up.
I worked at Lynden Door after high school for just over a year. Excellent company to be part of and they benefit the community a lot.
Last time I hung a door I used the GRK shim screws and the whole installation took about 15 minutes. I finished off with minimally-expanding foam all around the jamb to lock it in place. The shim screws leave pretty big holes to fill, but that's the only downside I could see.
Those are pretty cool. I would think that shims provide a bit more backing to the jam though. Filling with foam would probably make up for most of that though.
I've always started by making sure the floor was level. If the legs rest on a level floor, the rest is pretty easy and quick. I also like to use cedar roof shakes for shims, lot more surface area!
I absolutely love these videos there's nothing better than watching a true professional ply his trade 😊👊 you can really tell that you do great work and that you come highly recommended
I build interior/exterior doors for a living, always interested in seeing discussion about them. Great video!
Hey Scott- always a pleasure watching you and taking notes on your craftsmanship. You’ve been an inspiration through this whole project!
really looking forward to seeing some of the finish carpentry you have in your headlights.
Thanks From Shelburne Ontario!
Thanks for sharing. I always love to see how others do it. Great video.
Ken is the man. That popcorn mix he's snacking on is AMAZING!
And this is why I pay people to hang doors :) Also, you deserve extra credit for not wimping out and buying obnoxious 6 panel doors, these look really nice.
nice vid. a bit overly complicated door install. but, in the end, it works. thanks
Nice job Scott
The only thing I do differently is once the door is set I remove one screw from each hinge and install a 2 1/2 - 3 inch screw that reaches into my stud in my opening. I only do this on the hinge side as it is carrying the weight. This prevents door sag over time or if someone decides to hang something heavy on the back out door.
All the screws. Interior might be a single stut but load bearing you can sink that screw through 2 studs.
Totally agree, TinMan. Especially with heavy doors.
This guys sounds like Liev Schreiber when he narrates. It’s like I’m “Hard Knocks”. Love it!
Interesting video. Slightly distracted by the camera not focusing. Congrats on making one million subs (I'm sure you will soon).
"It happens" thanks for going with it and not scrapping the tape :)
I guess he gave one of the kids a go on holding the camera. Not sure if a "well done" comment is appropriate.
I love to build my own doors, jambs, stops,trim-----old school, of course you need time!
Thank you for such a clear, deliberate process that will hell us all!
Thank you for your show/channel
A professional door hanger starts by casing the butt side of the door. After the glue dries in the miters he sets the door in the opening from the butt side. When the reveals look good, especially the one with the adjacent wall, he shoots some 2 1/2” nails into the casing as reveals are checked. When done he goes to the other side and fits precut shims behind the hinge locations and shoots nails thru the jamb to lock the shims in place. Maybe some extras at the head and toe areas. Then he takes the pre assembled casing and nails it to the jamb. Finally 2 1/2’s into the framing.
That’s production door hanging for mostly hollow core doors, but can be done with solid cores doors that are 6’8”. 8’0” doors, and ones with special trim details are handled differently.
Door fitting, a very satisfying step that's not often done right.
Thanks for the detail of hanging a door
Nice and clean. Very nice job. This video turned out very well .
Best men. God bless you from panamá
Your videos motivate me in many of my tasks. On top of that, I find you extremely likeable. Regards from Germany
I don't know if you've seen it, but a company called spring tools makes a great spring loaded nail set that just pops those hinge pins out. And good job! I learn something every episode
Solid internal doors... very nice.
I love this. Wel done.
Shouldn't you secure the hinge pins once you established that it's plum and before you start shimming everything? Or is a fully secured pin not any diffrence then just having it pushed in for top part of the hinge?
Great video. I literally hung thousands of doors using that system, piece trimming track home’s in the 90s 👍
I installed a Lynden Columbia 6 panel door last week. Great product.
Wow. There’s no way I would have beautiful, expensive solid-core doors and then put carpeting in the house! That’s just me. Flooring FTW! 😊
Great video, great work! Makes me want to ho back to the trades.
The narrower a door is, the more the strike side bevel is important. 36" and wider doors need almost no bevel.
Also, right after framing is a really good time to check your door openings so that you won't be fighting cross-legged jambs later.
Little tip here from a guy who learned it the hard way - install your doors in the summer if you can. I have one that I installed in the dead of winter, with a perfect reveal, and plumb. It doesn't clear the jamb now in the summer due to the humidity making it swell. Granted, this is a hollow core door in a basement, so likely the swelling is exacerbated. Gotta trim the width one of these days...
Getting close to the 1,000,000 subs mark congratulation. Good to see this channel grow well done guys.
Hey there.
If you put a polarizer on your camera lense, it will drastically cut down on your glasses glare!
I figured since you gave me some tips, I could give you one!
Great channel you have here. Thank you.
motivated now to hang a door in our basement, a job I've been putting off for a while!
Great video. We've used easy hang to do door insulation. I, believe they are at most hardware stores.
Thanks again for your videos 😁
EZ Hang is the correct name of the product.
Just thought I'd share this information.
My husband and I,are not professional carpenter's.,were amateurs at best.
Thanks again for your videos.
Most guys I know would’ve stopped halfway through your process and called it good once it opens and closes ‘good enough’
It's the no1 rule, firstly it needs to function, then ....
😆
Just goes to show you the difference between "done" and "done right".
This house is probably going to cost more than a similar house done by a bunch of contractors that do new housing all the time, but the attention to detail taken by EC and his crew is more than worth the difference in price IMO.
I learned my lesson on "don't buy cheap stuff if you need it to last or are going to depend on it" early, and there's nothing that every person living needs that I can think of that needs to last and needs to be depended on more than a house.
It's just a shame that it's so hard to find people and things that aim for a "minimum quality standard" and not a "maximum price standard" these days. Too many people focused on saving money at all costs, and I've found with several products that the more you save up-front, the more likely you are going to need to get another one sometime sooner than you'd wanted.
Example: Harbor Freight 9 LED flashlight (the aluminum one about 3.5 inches long and an inch around, takes 3 AAA batteries). They practically give them away, but that's mostly because they're not really able to take all that much abuse and they're not all that bright either. Only 9x 5mm white LEDs (the cheapest ones they can get, I'm sure) means it's not all that bright, and the joint between the ALUMINUM body of the flashlight and the COPPER/SOLDER surface of the tiny little circuit board in there that carries the battery negative side of the circuit is just a axial press-fit, so the first or 2nd time you drop the flashlight from ~3ft that circuit board moves a few thousandths of an inch away from the little rim that's in the aluminum body of the flashlight, and that makes the ground circuit either intermittent or nonexistent (drop height is "hands at your sides" and it slips out of your hand, or it falls out of your pants pocket kinda height, not even up at your head where you'd be using it). Same thing happens if you let it rattle around in a toolbox for a very few weeks. It's utterly worthless. By the time you've broken 3-4 of those flashlights (and trust me that won't take long), you could have afforded something that can take the odd knock or two, is much brighter (enough to make you see spots if you accidentally point it at yourself), and might even run off of 2 AA cells instead of 3 AAA cells meaning it will actually last a good long while at that higher brightness.
And if you're willing to shell out $50, you can buy a Streamlight Pro USB, which is a pen-light sized flashlight that has a Li-Ion battery and recharges via a micro-USB port integrated into the flashlight itself behind a sliding aluminum collar on the flashlight, and everything's sealed with o-rings. It's very very well sealed, and I know that from personal experience which I shall now share.
You know how sometimes when you're working on a vehicle you'll find a tool another mechanic left behind by accident?
My dad and I are auto mechanics, and this happens occasionally (or we'll accidentally leave a tool in a car).
Usually it's the 1/4 inch drive 10mm sockets that seem to get lost or found (with Hondas sometimes you'll find a 13mm socket instead).
However, very rarely, you'll find something worth a bit more. My dad and I found a Stylus Pro USB by this method once, and it still worked once we figured out what it was, cleaned it up, and recharged it. Here's the full story:
We were working on a minivan we'd never had come into the bay before, to replace the steering rack on it. We got the cross-member lowered and the steering rack came with it, but when we took the steering rack off of the cross-member we found this weird blue anodized aluminum rod just sitting there covered in power steering fluid and road grit. Having no clue what it was, I took it and cleaned the road grit and PS fluid off of it, and discovered that it had a nice laser-etched silver STREAMLIGHT logo on it, wish smaller text noting "Stylus PRO USB". It also had a clear window on one end with the tell-tale yellow tint of a white LED surrounded by the silver of a (probably) parabolic reflector, and on the other end a rubber cap.
"OK" I thought to myself, "It's obviously a flashlight, and I've heard of this Streamlight brand before."
I am a bit of a LED flashlight connoisseur, because to be able to work on a vehicle effectively you need to be able to see what you're doing most of the time, and more/brighter lights can only help that. I had looked at Streamlight brand flashlights before, but I hadn't really looked in to them in much detail because they were all pretty expensive and the non-rechargeable ones took strange and expensive batteries like CR123 and I could get LED flashlights that I thought were plenty good enough that took regular AA and AAA cells, which at the time I preferred because I had a bunch of NiMh batteries of those sizes and a few chargers for them.
I couldn't figure out what kind of batteries this mystery flashlight took. Pressing the rubber cap did make a click noise (found the switch!) but no light. I had also found the collar that you slide to expose the USB charging port, but at this point I hadn't cleaned enough grit out/off of the flashlight to allow that collar to slide back and expose the charging port, so it was stuck covering the port. All I knew was that it rotated for some reason. Figuring that like most flashlights you unscrew the tail-cap to change the batteries, I did just that, and was greeted with a strange very skinny and long battery, and reading the specs on it it said "Streamlight Li-Ion battery, 3.7v 800mAh". Well that tells me all I need to know, it's a Li-Ion battery a little shorter than 2 AAA cells stacked end-to-end, and also thicker than an AAA cell. Knowing the volatile nature of this kind of battery when improperly recharged, I thought for a while about how to charge that battery while constantly fiddling with the (at the time just rotating) collar on the flashlight. I came up with the bright idea to look up the flashlight on the internet to see if I could get a charger for it, but on my way to the computer to do that I discovered that the collar could slide back and forth a little bit (not enough to expose the charging port at first). I kept working at it, and I got the collar to expose the charging port, and it instantly clicked that the "USB" in "Stylus PRO USB" meant that it was capable of charging the internal battery via the USB port ON the flashlight. So, I plugged it in to dad's cellphone charger, and it responded by lighting up a red LED, which to me meant it was charging. We left it like that for the rest of the day, and when we came back the next day I saw it had a green LED lit, which to me meant that it thought it was charged. So I disconnected it from the charger, and pressed the tail-switch. LIGHT! And quite a bit of it at that! (40 lumens was pretty impressive from such a small package).
Both Dad and myself were quite pleasantly surprised to find that the flashlight had actually survived in that position under that vehicle for who knows how long, and all it needed was some cleaning and a recharge and it was restored to funcitonality.
My dad still uses that flashlight every day, and I went and bought myself one as soon as I got home from work that night. It served me well for 2-3 years, but I don't use it any more. Not because it doesn't work any more mind you (If that happened, Streamlight has an excellent lifetime repair/replacement program, you send a broken flashlight in, they'll send you back a working one of the same model or as close as they can get to it if they somehow don't make it anymore, but IDK entirely how it works because I've never had to use it!).
Now I have a Streamlight Macrostream, which is the brighter, stubbier but fatter brother to the Stylus Pro USB (run-time on high is only about an hour, but on low it lasts about as long as the Stylus Pro USB while putting out 80 lumens instead of 40).
When I need a lot more light I also have a Streamlight ProTac HL-X with a 18650 Li-Ion battery (that's a common size) that has a micro-USB port on it for recharging, and this one has a bunch of operation modes to it. High puts out 1000 lumens for about an hour (it gets kinda hot, but not too hot to hold), it also has a strobe mode (well it's a "tactical" flashlight, so that makes sense), and medium and low modes. You can choose 3 ways for the tail-switch to act: High/Strobe/Low, High only, or High/Medium/Low. They call it a "ten-tap" programmable tailswitch, but I don't really care what they call it, I just care that it's easy to use, and it is. I keep mine set on "High/Strobe/Low", because I only need high or low, and being able to access the strobe mode quickly might come in handy if I need to signal for help or disorient someone who's intending to do harm to me or my parents (I know it's not likely, but the chance is not zero, and the police only get there after the deed is done, so being able to do something about it RIGHT NOW is a good thing, but I don't like the idea of potentially killing someone with a gun).
yeah but this guy isn't getting paid on piecework and has a camera watching him. i know he's a fine chippy but most guys will make a job good if they know a good few thousand people are breathing down their necks and they had all the time in the world to get it done.
Good job on those doors. Our last house we built the doors where 3 months late and they called to tell us they were on some boat from china. We cancelled the order and built them ourselves. Nice to have a cabinet shop with shapers,sanders,power feeders etc. Just took a little longer, but turned out great. The shaper cutters were expensive but we'll make that up over time.
Y’all are dangerously close to hitting 1 million subscribers… it should be more like 10 million if you ask me!
Damn. Almost to a million subscribers. Your content is great. We just want more of it.
On solid core doors you should always shim behind the hinges, then remove the center screw of each hinge on the jamb side and install a 2 1/2" matching screw through each hinge into the jamb, similar to an exterior door. Much less chance of door sagging over time. When you shim behind the hinge you should shim out slightly past where you want to be, because when you drive the screw in it will end up where you want it. Also for shims I buy bundles of undercoarse and run them through the tablesaw.
You can save some money on shims by picking up a pack of shingles. They're available in a lower quality (not finish grade) and you can turn a single shingle into at least three or four shims, usually more by splitting them along their length
I find a great deal of satisfaction in door work. Such as a double set of French doors (that's 4 doors) Couple things I have learned. Interior doors I pull out a screw from each hinge and replace it with a 3" deck screw. I also do the same for the door striker. Exterior doors get ALL hinge screws replaced. Prevents call backs and is way more secure/serviceable for my clients. Very little cost of material and labor to make that improvement.
I just built a house and I want to cry after watching your videos. I notice now after watching your videos how crummy our trim man was when hanging our doors and doing our trim.
Good call with the solid core 👌!!!
I usually check the level on the floor. If one side is a little higher, then i’ll trim that much off the that jamb leg. This way the jambs sit flat on the floor.
In a house that has settled over time and the concrete or finished floor isnt level between the strike and hinge, determine which side of the rough opening is lower than the other. When you set your jamb or jamb/slab in the rough opening place a temporary shim under bottom of the the jamb on the lowest side to level the feet of the jamb even with each other to compensate the floor being out of level and its going to hold it still and keep it from settling back to the low side again.
My brother in Law was a great trim man, he used to take one of the hinge pins and wack it with a hammer putting a slight bend in it, he said it kept the door from closing with a slight breeze. When I hung my doors in my new home, I wacked one on every door, did it make a difference, I have no Idea, but it felt good to do. I went with the non hollow core doors, they just felt alot better for the long run. I sold the house 18 years ago, I actually know the family. Its 1500 miles away, but when I get over to Texas again, Im going to do a good walk through, just to see how my work held up, should be fun.