I purchased ML No. 335 new back in 1999. I'm 47 now, and I recapped it earlier this year not because it was broken but for preventive maintenance to last me another 25 years. Throughout my audiophile journey, I've thrown every low impedance speaker at it, and it never disappointed. To date, it gives my mcintosh mc462 a run for the money.
Thanks for sharing. I am assuming that you had it recapped rather than doing it yourself as it appears to be quite the undertaking and for that amp as PM, definitely a good idea. At least you have the MC462 in your stable!
Yes, it was serviced by a ML authorized repair shop in CA. This is what was replaced. All ML parts. Boards were in top shape. 4 x ML-19000uf - 150v cap 4 x ML-50000uf - 125v cap 4 x ML 200224 150uf cap 4 x ML 200017 680uf cap 12 x ML LT1097 Transistor 20 x ML- 16165 .01uf cap 3 x ML - 110087 - UR resistors 6 x ML 200013 68uf cap 3 x 30AGC Fuse 4 x ML 200046-3300 22uf cap
@@henrymagallon8578 Thanks for all the info- but you did not say the cost... $3500 ? I assume you did lived in the area and did not have to pay for shipping ?
No. It was easy and with little money ! was already reviewed a month ago I bought all the material at Mouser 8-Large Cornell Dubilier capacitors - CDE 4- 2700uF - 200V - DCMC272T200AC2B , or DCMC192T250AJ2B = 1900uf-250V 4- 51000uF - 160V - DCMC513M160DP2D 3 Starting resistors 2 more resistors several smaller capacitors 2- Chips (power amplifiers) LT1097CN8#PBF 20 AMP Furutech plug. with 6mm wiring It's like new!!! I have the ML 335 and 336 service manual which is the same manual. and the Harmann Kardon fact sheet on changes to the 300 series you should listen to it now and measure, It's better than when it came out new . .
@@clementevicente5934 Thanks for all the parts info. The owner of the 336 has another one that he is bringing to me later this week (it is in Texas) that has a hum so I am figuring it is the caps, which from the little peaking I did look to be large and expensive, but the ones you listed-if still available from Mouser- should be reasonbly priced. Where did you find the service manual?
Oh, in the United States, Mister Kurian Abraham send me in the ML335, 4- 100V -50,000uf and 4 more 160-1900uf were mounted I increased the volts and uf and the value of the 3 starting resistors I'm in Lisbon - P O R T U G A L, excellent country .
@@clementevicente5934 I am not aware of the starting resistors you mentioned. But don't have a schematic or service manual. I am not looking forward to trying to repair the unit if I even decide to. Don't hear much about Portugal, which is a good thing I suppose.
Thanks for taking the time to comment! It is a beast of an amp, though I prefer the look of McIntosh power amps. I said say it is more like two conventional amps, which can be bridged with the right adapter.
@@vintageaudioreviewThank you for taking time (and having the stamina) to take it to the bench. I understand your point, but it's still an excellent piece of kit. Not overtly complicated and with no gimmicks for sure, but it's just a solid piece of engineering made to deliver no matter what you throw at it. What it may lack in terms of finesse of feeble class A SE valve amps, it surely makes up for with brute force in spades. Let's face it, every piece of kit needs a bit of TLC every 2 or 3 decades and with so much silicone and electrolyte underneath, it cannot come cheap.
@@paulb4661 (Chuckling) I did not move these amp on my own. 70lbs is about the most I will do by myself. I like big amps with power meters or LEDs, so this would not be my 1st choice for a 350w amp, but it appears well built. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Historic amplifier. However, the full power fft shows a lot of harmonics, -50db is not very good. Maybe there's a fault, i thought i saw cooked resistors on the pcb. Cool to see it, thanks for the review.
Thanks you for taking the time to comment. I would not regard it as an historic amplifier though. I went back and looked at the raw footage and pictures I took and did not see any cooked resistors. It looked decent at the lower power levels. Not the best performing amp at higher power levels- at least this one....
The point I was trying to make, which I may not have done a good job on, is that with other amps I am able to get say 350w into 4ohms because they are more efficient- not saying class D efficient- say compared to a McIntosh MC352. My friend would probably make you a good deal on the one in the video as he has too much gear....Thanks for commenting
@@dtardis Thanks for explaining. BTW, I got the no 333 sibling for this amp in not too long ago and what a PIA- I would never recommend them unless $'s are not an object when you have to get them repaired.
Wish you had done some testing at 2 ohms, would have loved to see distortion, noise and stability Numbers say 5-100 watts @2ohm .. Any thoughts on reliability ,,madrigal is very pricey for repairs ..!
Many thanks for the comments and questions. I have not done any testing into 2 ohms as I would have to make new loads and the associated cabling to attach the loads to the amp and analyzer. There are not many amps that specify a 2ohm rating as well (at least that I have come across, although there will be one in next week's video). As for reliability, I saw another amp very close to the one in this review that had problems. I would not purchase their gear just because there is a lot going on that could break and cost a lot to fix, plus their connectors I don't think are ideal.
It’s not all that huge physically relative to many similar 300w amps of its fat it has aged well and used good components. Still, it is a relic relative to SOA amps today relative to efficiency especially…
Thanks for the comment. The MC352 I reviewed weighed in at a bit over 100lbs and was rated at the same power, but this guy is larger at 150lbs. The Rotel I reviewed I think was rated at a bit more and weighed around 100lbs. It is not as efficient as other amps, that is for sure.
Thanks for the question, but I have no idea. Years ago- maybe the 70's and 80's, you may have seen and add for a piece of audio gear that touted how many stages of amplification it has, but that seems to be rare these days, and ML schematics are hard to come by. There are pros and cons to having say a few stages with a lot of gain or sevaral with lower gains....
I purchased ML No. 335 new back in 1999. I'm 47 now, and I recapped it earlier this year not because it was broken but for preventive maintenance to last me another 25 years. Throughout my audiophile journey, I've thrown every low impedance speaker at it, and it never disappointed. To date, it gives my mcintosh mc462 a run for the money.
Thanks for sharing. I am assuming that you had it recapped rather than doing it yourself as it appears to be quite the undertaking and for that amp as PM, definitely a good idea. At least you have the MC462 in your stable!
Yes, it was serviced by a ML authorized repair shop in CA. This is what was replaced. All ML parts. Boards were in top shape.
4 x ML-19000uf - 150v cap
4 x ML-50000uf - 125v cap
4 x ML 200224 150uf cap
4 x ML 200017 680uf cap
12 x ML LT1097 Transistor
20 x ML- 16165 .01uf cap
3 x ML - 110087 - UR resistors
6 x ML 200013 68uf cap
3 x 30AGC Fuse
4 x ML 200046-3300 22uf cap
@@henrymagallon8578 Thanks for all the info- but you did not say the cost... $3500 ? I assume you did lived in the area and did not have to pay for shipping ?
I drove 500 miles to get them serviced. The total cost for the work was $2,847.
@@henrymagallon8578 That is dedication!
I have a Mark Levinson 335, until today it has been an excellent machine.
That's too bad- I see a costly repair in your future 🥺
No. It was easy and with little money !
was already reviewed a month ago
I bought all the material at Mouser
8-Large Cornell Dubilier capacitors - CDE
4- 2700uF - 200V - DCMC272T200AC2B , or DCMC192T250AJ2B = 1900uf-250V
4- 51000uF - 160V - DCMC513M160DP2D
3 Starting resistors
2 more resistors
several smaller capacitors
2- Chips (power amplifiers) LT1097CN8#PBF
20 AMP Furutech plug. with 6mm wiring
It's like new!!!
I have the ML 335 and 336 service manual which is the same manual.
and the Harmann Kardon fact sheet on changes to the 300 series
you should listen to it now and measure,
It's better than when it came out new
.
.
@@clementevicente5934 Thanks for all the parts info. The owner of the 336 has another one that he is bringing to me later this week (it is in Texas) that has a hum so I am figuring it is the caps, which from the little peaking I did look to be large and expensive, but the ones you listed-if still available from Mouser- should be reasonbly priced. Where did you find the service manual?
Oh, in the United States, Mister Kurian Abraham
send me
in the ML335, 4- 100V -50,000uf and 4 more 160-1900uf were mounted
I increased the volts and uf and the value of the 3 starting resistors
I'm in Lisbon - P O R T U G A L, excellent country
.
@@clementevicente5934 I am not aware of the starting resistors you mentioned. But don't have a schematic or service manual. I am not looking forward to trying to repair the unit if I even decide to. Don't hear much about Portugal, which is a good thing I suppose.
Work of Art, about 4 conventional amps combined under one hood giving plenty of ooomph. They even employed actual copper bars to handle the current.
Thanks for taking the time to comment! It is a beast of an amp, though I prefer the look of McIntosh power amps. I said say it is more like two conventional amps, which can be bridged with the right adapter.
@@vintageaudioreviewThank you for taking time (and having the stamina) to take it to the bench. I understand your point, but it's still an excellent piece of kit. Not overtly complicated and with no gimmicks for sure, but it's just a solid piece of engineering made to deliver no matter what you throw at it. What it may lack in terms of finesse of feeble class A SE valve amps, it surely makes up for with brute force in spades. Let's face it, every piece of kit needs a bit of TLC every 2 or 3 decades and with so much silicone and electrolyte underneath, it cannot come cheap.
@@paulb4661 (Chuckling) I did not move these amp on my own. 70lbs is about the most I will do by myself. I like big amps with power meters or LEDs, so this would not be my 1st choice for a 350w amp, but it appears well built. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Historic amplifier. However, the full power fft shows a lot of harmonics, -50db is not very good. Maybe there's a fault, i thought i saw cooked resistors on the pcb. Cool to see it, thanks for the review.
Thanks you for taking the time to comment. I would not regard it as an historic amplifier though. I went back and looked at the raw footage and pictures I took and did not see any cooked resistors. It looked decent at the lower power levels. Not the best performing amp at higher power levels- at least this one....
Efficientcy? What's that? Who cares! What a great amp. I'd love to have one myself.
The point I was trying to make, which I may not have done a good job on, is that with other amps I am able to get say 350w into 4ohms because they are more efficient- not saying class D efficient- say compared to a McIntosh MC352. My friend would probably make you a good deal on the one in the video as he has too much gear....Thanks for commenting
@@vintageaudioreview I understand your point. I was more joking than anything else.
@@dtardis Thanks for explaining. BTW, I got the no 333 sibling for this amp in not too long ago and what a PIA- I would never recommend them unless $'s are not an object when you have to get them repaired.
BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!
It is indeed a beast, but I would never purchase it- thanks for the comment!
Wish you had done some testing at 2 ohms, would have loved to see distortion, noise and stability Numbers say 5-100 watts @2ohm ..
Any thoughts on reliability ,,madrigal is very pricey for repairs ..!
Many thanks for the comments and questions. I have not done any testing into 2 ohms as I would have to make new loads and the associated cabling to attach the loads to the amp and analyzer. There are not many amps that specify a 2ohm rating as well (at least that I have come across, although there will be one in next week's video). As for reliability, I saw another amp very close to the one in this review that had problems. I would not purchase their gear just because there is a lot going on that could break and cost a lot to fix, plus their connectors I don't think are ideal.
Amazing equipment!!
Thanks, just make sure it never breaks!
Which do you prefer for B&W 802 diamond, mark levinson no336 or classe CA 2300?
I have not heard the B&W and Classe so can't say...
It’s not all that huge physically relative to many similar 300w amps of its fat it has aged well and used good components. Still, it is a relic relative to SOA amps today relative to efficiency especially…
Thanks for the comment. The MC352 I reviewed weighed in at a bit over 100lbs and was rated at the same power, but this guy is larger at 150lbs. The Rotel I reviewed I think was rated at a bit more and weighed around 100lbs. It is not as efficient as other amps, that is for sure.
It’s about sonics , not efficiency, most modern amps are poor sounds IMO very few deliver anything like real music ..!
How many amplifierstages does it have?
Thanks for the question, but I have no idea. Years ago- maybe the 70's and 80's, you may have seen and add for a piece of audio gear that touted how many stages of amplification it has, but that seems to be rare these days, and ML schematics are hard to come by. There are pros and cons to having say a few stages with a lot of gain or sevaral with lower gains....