What a great story. He hits the nail on the head. I remember every ripple in the face of my first wave at Mavericks in the mid 90s. I didn't make it. Instead of going to the shoulder I tried taking off on the peak. And got beat harder and held down longer... not twice as hard, like 100 times as hard. I was disconnected in my brain underwater. Just like thinking calmly: "I can't believe a wave can hit this hard. What does this remind me of? A wave drill in football? No. Oh yeah, this is like getting t-boned on my motorcycle by the pickup that ran that stop sign. Only again and again, but not pointy, so no blood." I thought that pretty much verbatim. All underwater cause before flotation you had a lot of time under a big set wave. I popped up and Jay M. was off to the side, he yelled "Are you ok?" (I paddled out with him) and I said "Yeah." He yelled "Welcome to Mavericks!" and started laughing. Thanks for your video, you took me back. I can't surf anymore cause of old injuries, can't hardly walk most days. So memories and these videos are all I have. Be safe bros. Thanks for the good story. I felt every bit of it.
Thanks for that comment Sean and your story there! What an experience!! Plus meeting Jay!! Glad you enjoyed that one with Dougal, we have a few more to come with Dougal. If you want to listen to the full audio then we do have longer stories on the podcast which you can find here: open.spotify.com/show/4lrs8E3iogtHWRaO0wMYN6 Plus we have plenty of other insane surfing stories already on the youtube channel. Stay safe Sean, enjoy the show and hope to see you back in the water again some day mate!
What a great story. He hits the nail on the head. I remember every ripple in the face of my first wave at Mavericks in the mid 90s. I didn't make it. Instead of going to the shoulder I tried taking off on the peak. And got beat harder and held down longer... not twice as hard, like 100 times as hard. I was disconnected in my brain underwater. Just like thinking calmly: "I can't believe a wave can hit this hard. What does this remind me of? A wave drill in football? No. Oh yeah, this is like getting t-boned on my motorcycle by the pickup that ran that stop sign. Only again and again, but not pointy, so no blood." I thought that pretty much verbatim. All underwater cause before flotation you had a lot of time under a big set wave. I popped up and Jay M. was off to the side, he yelled "Are you ok?" (I paddled out with him) and I said "Yeah." He yelled "Welcome to Mavericks!" and started laughing. Thanks for your video, you took me back. I can't surf anymore cause of old injuries, can't hardly walk most days. So memories and these videos are all I have. Be safe bros. Thanks for the good story. I felt every bit of it.
Thanks for that comment Sean and your story there! What an experience!! Plus meeting Jay!!
Glad you enjoyed that one with Dougal, we have a few more to come with Dougal. If you want to listen to the full audio then we do have longer stories on the podcast which you can find here: open.spotify.com/show/4lrs8E3iogtHWRaO0wMYN6
Plus we have plenty of other insane surfing stories already on the youtube channel.
Stay safe Sean, enjoy the show and hope to see you back in the water again some day mate!