Are you going to route in wiring channels under the top before you glue it in place? Also you could inlay chunks of a harder wood like ebony or maple under the top Like I have seen done with other softer wood guitars in the areas of the bridge and other areas needing extra strength.
I'm sure Ben has some great idea for the finish, but I have an itch in my head that says since the main body is relatively plain, stain that black and put a more natural finish on the top so that Redwood can really stand out.
It's been a bit since I've watched a build, Ben. It seems a little off. I hope you're doing alright. Love the craftsmanship you have with all your projects!
Perfect timing on this since I'm building the same thing with inlaid drop top for 2 designs. One thing you could do if needed is to make the inlaid top a little proud, run it thru a drum sander for flush then remove for staining , finish and reinstall when ready. Suction cups could remove the inlaid top if too tight without any damage after drum sanding. Just a few thoughts.
Re the routing direction. Think of it as a tiny chisel making dozens of small cuts every second. The grain direction is going to come into play here. If you're pushing it against the grain and it's going out, you might risk a tear out. As a rule of thumb I'm always trying to go from the inside out, because on the occasion I am actually going against the grain, I'm not adding force but taking it away because of the direction I'm moving in.
made a guitar with a lovely flamed flamed redwood top once.... never again lol. Figured spalted maple and redwood have been retired to the "it looks very pretty but im never touching it ever again in my life" lol.
I was taught as a general rule when routing - feed the router clockwise on the internal part of a frame and anti clockwise on the outside ( Not on the router table though). There is also the thumb and finger method, with your right hand make thumb 90° to index finger 👆 place thumb to edge of job your index finger shows direction to push router 🔲👆⬆️. And as Ben mentioned there's the route downhill with the grain to avoid tear out
If you do not have access to two templates which fit together perfectly, you can achieve the same result with clever use of guide bushings. This allows you to use one single template to route the inlay as well as the recess. I do this all the time (for my current build I used this approach to inlay the pickguard and fix it with magnets). It's pure satisfaction everytime two pieces fit together seamlessly.
I know this will probably be...extra, but have you considered taking the other cutaway portion of that top and inlaying that into the headstock as well? Might be cool!
When I was doing my guitar recently, I did use a climbing cut so that I didn't splinter the wood as I'm approaching a bend where the wood doesn't have any support and can easily splinter. There is a thing called the "bump" cut which can help. I didn't get any issue with a climbing cut ( ie it didn't grab the wood and throw it across the room ). When you're going around a guitar body, there will be some areas which may splinter if you don't do a climbing cut. Mine turned out great but I made sure I did it while non of you were watching. :) :) :)
Less than a minute in, the copper doesn’t want to leave at this point… I wonder, if you fill it with ice cubes and wait a couple of minutes for it to get cold, whether it’ll then slide out easily. Wouldn’t copper contract more than the wood (or at the very least more quickly than the wood because of heat conductivity) in response to cooling? Hammering to knock it out before the outside shape is cut is fine but the edge will be quite thin further along the process…
I'm literally planning out a GGBO build and was trying to figure out a top inlay like this. I don't have a laser cutter available here but I guess for what I need, just making 2 templates that fit together and making sure they are a perfect fit is the main answer.
It would be quite hard to do 2 mattching templates without laser cut. I guess easiest way is one template and router inlay kit to route both cavity and inlay from the same template
@@SeriousDron I only need it to fit a curved segment on the side so I can leave plenty of meat to make adjustments or redo if needed. I'll just be using high density fiber board so I can hand shape as needed
@@TheBigburcie Sure, just good setup inlay kit guarantee you two cuts to match and you need only one template. It cost like $20. It's just a 1/4 bit with 2 collars. With bigger collar you cut the cavity and with smaller one you can the inlay outline. Collars size difference is exactly 1/4, same a bit so cuts will match. Only tricky parts make sure you perfectly centered it and never lose the contact with your template while cutting the inlay outline. Template will prevent to cutting cavity to big, but it can't prevent you of cutting inlay too small
Climb milling is when the cutter is rotating clockwise and you feed the workpiece to the left. If you feed from the left to right it is conventional. The climb mill is like a tire on the road, it wants to climb onto the workpiece. In metal working climb milling gives a better finish but it wants to suck the workpiece into the cutter which can be problematic. conventional milling will not want to pull the workpiece into the cutter it will repel it.
Climb cutting is especially useful when cutting into something that is prone to tear out or extremely dense. I had an almost violent kickback when chamfering a piece of wenge. *Be aware that the router will be pulling away from you instead of pushing back.* I wish I had known sooner. Expensive mistake.
Also. Climb cuts are very viable in soft or tear out happy materials because it tends to not hook and tear large chunks away and are very useful with smaller bits to maximize control (eg. inlay work)
I would have thought you'd chamfer both the redwood inlay and the cavity, then sand it all down and you would be less likely to have gaps. At least that's the theory I have in my head, that you wouldn't have to rely on the accuracy of your inlay and router cuts as much
If it`s starting to `cup` Ben, you`re gonna have to do something to to stop it, otherwise all your efforts will be simply a waste of time as the timber takes it`s own shape, if not metal rods then I wonder if horizontal (to the grain) inserts of something really strong like Ash or Oak would do the trick?
Gotta love the impish grin Ben gets when he reaches into the new Crimson glory hole when playing with his wood in his private room. Evidently some at Crimson are unfamiliar how they work and require instruction written on the wall! 🤣
Annunciation of your words is very important. When you said "Hey, there's another tool in your arsenal of knowledge." What I heard was "Hey, there's another tool in your arse hole of knowledge."
Hiya Ben, I have a question. I'm gonna be making a guitar out of Obeche, i think varnish would be a crime, and paint would be a travesty, so that leaves finishing oil. What kind should I go for? I have no clue in this area. Any hints would be greatly appreciated.
Where the hell did you get that redwood... I got plans for a hammered dulcimer some 17yrs ago but was never able to source the wood for the soundboard. USA Company i got the plans off wanted $300.00 inc post for the top only.
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars haha! Yup watched that one, I like the idea of the inlayed headstock, will try that some day, Might do it half half sorta thing...
Another fine episode from the Masking Tape & Superglue channel
Your giggle of joy when the top slid in made my day. Thank, Ben.
Ben - The master of perfectly executed complication.
Are you going to route in wiring channels under the top before you glue it in place? Also you could inlay chunks of a harder wood like ebony or maple under the top Like I have seen done with other softer wood guitars in the areas of the bridge and other areas needing extra strength.
I'm sure Ben has some great idea for the finish, but I have an itch in my head that says since the main body is relatively plain, stain that black and put a more natural finish on the top so that Redwood can really stand out.
A couple of layers of binding around the inlay would take this to the next level. Although it's already at a really great levelk.
Single layer of that copper would be 🔥
It's been a bit since I've watched a build, Ben. It seems a little off. I hope you're doing alright. Love the craftsmanship you have with all your projects!
Perfect timing on this since I'm building the same thing with inlaid drop top for 2 designs. One thing you could do if needed is to make the inlaid top a little proud, run it thru a drum sander for flush then remove for staining , finish and reinstall when ready. Suction cups could remove the inlaid top if too tight without any damage after drum sanding. Just a few thoughts.
You chiseled with your watch on Dude 😎 you are so hard core ☺️
Re the routing direction. Think of it as a tiny chisel making dozens of small cuts every second. The grain direction is going to come into play here. If you're pushing it against the grain and it's going out, you might risk a tear out. As a rule of thumb I'm always trying to go from the inside out, because on the occasion I am actually going against the grain, I'm not adding force but taking it away because of the direction I'm moving in.
The guitar is going to be amazing is but can we take a moment realise Ben's beard at the end looks insane , in multiple meanings of the word .
Lovely work!! Did that.once on a 335 shaped body inlaying a 1.6cm top..took a whole day!!!😂😂😂😂 great one Ben
19:11 = knees week. Absolute euphoria.
Absolutely loved the photography and editing. Great job to whomever edited this.
Hats off for this precise and lovely work ☺️
Big kudos... much kudos? Whatever, well done for keeping things rolling and getting the vids out. I know it ain't easy.
The moment you fitted that inlayed topn that body instantly came to life. Looks really promising and awesome already !
made a guitar with a lovely flamed flamed redwood top once.... never again lol. Figured spalted maple and redwood have been retired to the "it looks very pretty but im never touching it ever again in my life" lol.
Ben with respirator on. (Bane Voice - Well hello UA-cam viewers.....glad you could join us).
I was taught as a general rule when routing - feed the router clockwise on the internal part of a frame and anti clockwise on the outside ( Not on the router table though).
There is also the thumb and finger method, with your right hand make thumb 90° to index finger 👆 place thumb to edge of job your index finger shows direction to push router 🔲👆⬆️.
And as Ben mentioned there's the route downhill with the grain to avoid tear out
If you do not have access to two templates which fit together perfectly, you can achieve the same result with clever use of guide bushings. This allows you to use one single template to route the inlay as well as the recess. I do this all the time (for my current build I used this approach to inlay the pickguard and fix it with magnets). It's pure satisfaction everytime two pieces fit together seamlessly.
A pleasure to watch a craftsman work. You ROCK Ben!!
I know this will probably be...extra, but have you considered taking the other cutaway portion of that top and inlaying that into the headstock as well? Might be cool!
Great idea!
Superb! Someone's going to be extremely pleased when they win this.
The vice handle routine was immensely amusing!
So nice Ben, That's going to be an incredible guitar.. very special..
I have a clear piece of acrylic for a router sledge. Wasnt cheap, but its much easier to see what im doing
Ben: "Please buy tickets...it is going to be finished soon"
Us:20 episodes later... 😊
When I was doing my guitar recently, I did use a climbing cut so that I didn't splinter the wood as I'm approaching a bend where the wood doesn't have any support and can easily splinter. There is a thing called the "bump" cut which can help. I didn't get any issue with a climbing cut ( ie it didn't grab the wood and throw it across the room ). When you're going around a guitar body, there will be some areas which may splinter if you don't do a climbing cut. Mine turned out great but I made sure I did it while non of you were watching. :) :) :)
That fit was amazing!
It's not too late for the carbon fiber rods Ben. And again, extraordinary work!!! This guitar is going to be stunning!
That laugh at the end! Don't you love when something comes together well
Can I just say how annoyed I am at how, well that fitted. I'd never get close to that. 😂😂
For real... I had to inlay a nut in wood for a blind hole and was satisfied that it actually held the nut so I could tighten it when I was done.
I hear ya! So frustrating 😂
Totally satisfying seeing the inlay fit in! Well done. Always love your vids!
Loving it so far
The flame reminds me of Bengal Tiger stripes...
Less than a minute in, the copper doesn’t want to leave at this point… I wonder, if you fill it with ice cubes and wait a couple of minutes for it to get cold, whether it’ll then slide out easily. Wouldn’t copper contract more than the wood (or at the very least more quickly than the wood because of heat conductivity) in response to cooling? Hammering to knock it out before the outside shape is cut is fine but the edge will be quite thin further along the process…
I'm literally planning out a GGBO build and was trying to figure out a top inlay like this. I don't have a laser cutter available here but I guess for what I need, just making 2 templates that fit together and making sure they are a perfect fit is the main answer.
It would be quite hard to do 2 mattching templates without laser cut. I guess easiest way is one template and router inlay kit to route both cavity and inlay from the same template
@@SeriousDron I only need it to fit a curved segment on the side so I can leave plenty of meat to make adjustments or redo if needed. I'll just be using high density fiber board so I can hand shape as needed
@@TheBigburcie Sure, just good setup inlay kit guarantee you two cuts to match and you need only one template. It cost like $20. It's just a 1/4 bit with 2 collars. With bigger collar you cut the cavity and with smaller one you can the inlay outline. Collars size difference is exactly 1/4, same a bit so cuts will match.
Only tricky parts make sure you perfectly centered it and never lose the contact with your template while cutting the inlay outline. Template will prevent to cutting cavity to big, but it can't prevent you of cutting inlay too small
Good luck with the build. I hope you get 2nd place :)
Still would have loved an SG carve top.
I can't wait for the day you learn about double sided tape!
Ben you should have bound the top in copper before inlaying and give it a nice copper pinstripe
That was inspiring I will try this on my next build
Thank you. Have fun
Climb milling is when the cutter is rotating clockwise and you feed the workpiece to the left. If you feed from the left to right it is conventional. The climb mill is like a tire on the road, it wants to climb onto the workpiece. In metal working climb milling gives a better finish but it wants to suck the workpiece into the cutter which can be problematic. conventional milling will not want to pull the workpiece into the cutter it will repel it.
Loving the inset top! Gonna be one of the nicest SG's
Well played Sir!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Daily update on the build is the way to go, my dude.
Climb cutting is especially useful when cutting into something that is prone to tear out or extremely dense. I had an almost violent kickback when chamfering a piece of wenge. *Be aware that the router will be pulling away from you instead of pushing back.* I wish I had known sooner. Expensive mistake.
I"m going to save this for home... Excellent.
Nice work. Liked and subscribed
That handle ejecting from the vise… has happened to me more times than I care to count. Hence why it’s just screwed on. 😂
Also. Climb cuts are very viable in soft or tear out happy materials because it tends to not hook and tear large chunks away and are very useful with smaller bits to maximize control (eg. inlay work)
My guitar is coming along nicely!🤣
Rustic=💥🔨
If only you could do the carve a different type of wood, that would be pretty cool.
I would have thought you'd chamfer both the redwood inlay and the cavity, then sand it all down and you would be less likely to have gaps. At least that's the theory I have in my head, that you wouldn't have to rely on the accuracy of your inlay and router cuts as much
As this guitar is destined to be mine, can you please do some chambers under the top. Ta.
nice fit
I've never seen a glory hole in a guitar workshop before 😮
This is a PG channel, there’s a bunch of kids watching.
He's actually just channeling Prince Barin..
Ben is not known for cutting corners 😁
Any tips how to make perfect fitting templates? I have problems to make templates for lids and cavities that perfectly fit.
If it`s starting to `cup` Ben, you`re gonna have to do something to to stop it, otherwise all your efforts will be simply a waste of time as the timber takes it`s own shape, if not metal rods then I wonder if horizontal (to the grain) inserts of something really strong like Ash or Oak would do the trick?
The copper would have been better making out two pieces and soldering it together ? just saying 😁😁🤘🤘
Wouldn’t it be cool if you made the headstock a Flying V style
Let it be mine!
Gotta love the impish grin Ben gets when he reaches into the new Crimson glory hole when playing with his wood in his private room. Evidently some at Crimson are unfamiliar how they work and require instruction written on the wall! 🤣
Strong Flash Gordon vibes personally....
19:10 I can't believe you left that uncensored, that is borderline pornographic.
At the end it will looks like a last century US station wagon. That's not a bad thing if you are a child oh the 80s. :-)
I think it'll look infinitely better than that.
Guitar shaped ? That could be big.
I would be too tempted to rig up a barking dog sound every time someone reaches into that hole in the wall!
Annunciation of your words is very important. When you said "Hey, there's another tool in your arsenal of knowledge." What I heard was "Hey, there's another tool in your arse hole of knowledge."
Hiya Ben, I have a question.
I'm gonna be making a guitar out of Obeche, i think varnish would be a crime, and paint would be a travesty, so that leaves finishing oil.
What kind should I go for? I have no clue in this area. Any hints would be greatly appreciated.
Where the hell did you get that redwood... I got plans for a hammered dulcimer some 17yrs ago but was never able to source the wood for the soundboard. USA Company i got the plans off wanted $300.00 inc post for the top only.
Darth Ben
❤ can't say more
Interstitial! I haven’t heard that word since 1982 Chemistry! 😉
Well apparently Ben needs the CNC machine... Do it again without the CNC cut templates... 🤣
Laser cut dude, laser lol! But I did the same on the headstock without any templates just to make a point 😆
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars haha! Yup watched that one, I like the idea of the inlayed headstock, will try that some day, Might do it half half sorta thing...
Bully🤘👍
I see the gorgeous
Not a faraday cage, check your physics. By hand router, I thought you meant the real thing rather than a power tool.
"Who needs a CNC machine?" *Uses templates made with a CNC machine.*
You, apparently.
Laser cutter tbh.. and fair point 😆 though making templates by hand is really very achievable too
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars
Are you intentionally making asmr videos or do you just have a new mic that picks up every little noise? These are hard to watch.
You may think the masking tape and super glue trick is cool but the poundland slug tape trick is the wave of the future