My most spectacular wipe out was on the 69 swell where I bounced down the face for over 100 yards before the wave let me submerge and stop and that was on the reef 200 yards out past Indicator, it was breaking out there that day. I moved into the cove and had a blast, and after about an hour alone two surfers from British Columbia joined me. A session I’ll always remember. It was really fun. By the way that was when I was a knee boarder. Eventually I switched to stand up and then surfski, which turned out to be my favorite way to ride waves, but sadly I’ll retired now, but still enjoy watching great days like this one.
Not bad, but back in 1812 my colleagues and I bound some flotsam together with tar and twine and road the swell of the century at Rincon. No UA-cam back in those days of course, but I believe there is still an oil painting of our ride at the LA County museum.
Your colleagues? WTF???? You mean to say your fellow soldiers as all of you went AWOL from the battle lines of Washington DC in the war of 1812 against the British. Then escaping persecution you fled the country and headed west to California into Mexican territory as it was several years away before California became a State in the Union. You made up makeshift surfboards and were frolicking in waters teaming wirh fish and abalone. You surfed killer waves by day and by night drank tequila and played around with the Rancheros Spanish Speaking Daughters. Meanwhile back at your post you were not there and the British Set Fire to the Whitehouse. James Madison our 4th President was pissed and sent a possee out after you but they were captured and killed by Native Americans in the badlands of the Dakotas. Surfing Rincon in 1812! Getting the moment captured by a painter on canvass. You freaking bastards!
Arrived around 11AM and couldn't believe how big it was. Watched for an hour, and decided to paddle out on my 5'9 lol paddled horizontally in front of the rivermouth, and after a few duck dives I miraculously reached the outside. Or so I thought, after a few minutes I was cleaned up by two huge whitewater and at this point I was so far in that I decided to let it wash me to the shore. But then I realized the shorebreak was too strong and kept pushing me over the rocks, so I decided to climb them and jump over the guard rail and walk it out thru the bike lane. At this point I was so exhausted and happy to be out of the water. Kudos to all the legends dropping these giant waves, it was so strong and heavy. Didn't imagine Rincon could get this large.
I can't say this is the biggest swell to hit Rincon, but a surfing buddy and I were there in November 1969 (as I recall). He was home on leave from the Vietnam war. The large sets - about 10ft or more - kept us on the beach. Neither of us was a big wave surfer. At any rate, the waves were so powerful that day, huge boulders from the sea wall were tossed onto the highway. They were about the size of a VW Beetle! The CHP had to guide traffic very slowly through and around all those boulders. We could also park on the highway back then, and my car was covered with salt from the spray. Also, this was before board leashes, so when someone lost a board in a wipeout, it would explode into pieces of fiberglass and foam against the sea wall. Nature was in charge that day.
What a day! My 6’3 was not enough out there yesterday but I snagged one solid one and took a lot of beatings. Awesome. Paddle out at 9am was manageable but it just kept getting bigger by the minute. Must have grown 3x by noon. Thanks for the memories.
Had my 8'0 brewer this day.n.it was at least6ft. Bigger me .n. some guy called it the biggest day ever ripped just me n the riddler idic was fuckin in saine you'd get barreld all the way through river mouth late Afternoon minus tide.n.real strong offshores surfed little drakesthat glass off better than v,land on its best day sorry mason m.sherman
I surfed Rincon as big or bigger around 2001, on the straight West 270 degree swell that broke the bathroom structure off the Venice Pier. Swell was 21 feet at 20 seconds, and unusually, because of the 270 degree angle, all of it was hitting Rincon, not just the usual leftovers that make it down the channel between the channel islands and Point Conception. Less than ten of us made the paddle out in the morning when it was bombing, with cloud breaks 1/3 of a mile out to sea from the main point, that were backing off then reforming on the point. Never saw or heard of it doing that ever, before or since. There must be footage of that day somewhere. I saw one wave outside the Indicator, from where I was way out at the river mouth section, that unless the guy riding it was 4" tall, had to have had a twenty five foot plus face. I've been around the world, surfing the North Shore of Oahu and lots of big heavy spots, but that day at Rincon was the biggest surf I've personally ever been out in. OK, I admit I've never surfed Jaws or Nazare, or even full size Waimea. But, hey, whatever. The current was pulling down the point so fast, that I and others were in fear of loosing our lives on the freeway rocks. I ended up having to straighten out on a set wave up near the river mouth, get mowed down, then paddle for my life to make it to the shore just before the rocks. It was heavy. This new footage is the only time I've seen it close to that big, but I haven't seen anything close to those far outside Indicator bombs, or the cloud break outside the main point. Great to see it big though, but these guys, and it looked like quite a few were able to make the paddle out, were surfing in more or less the outer reaches of the usual break zones, and not the outer reef stuff I had to deal with on that one swell a couple of decades ago. Anyone know the bouy size reading, angle and period of this swell? Anyone have footage of Ventura Overhead on this day?
1982-83 el nino swell was MUCH, MUCH bigger. The surf was rubbing the bottom of oil piers and rincon island pier. 20-25' only about 12-15 guys were out, and leashes were snapping like peanut brittle. I was on the crewboats there off the point. We had to shelter in hueneme. Yes, ive surfed since 77
Yes 82-83 was huge. I live up on bailard Ave up the road back then. I was to little to surf but went and watched it from the bluffs. I Older guys told me the el nino storms in 69 were pretty big to.
The '69 swell was twice this size ~ Few made it out and few even caught any waves ~ Mostly it was scratching for the horizon in fear for your life. Nobody caught the biggest waves they were just fearsome. I made it out from the highway riding the backwash jumping off the rocks. Not long after all the parked vehicles had to move to the land side of the highway where no damage could be done by the force of waves crossing the whole highway ~ I caught 3 waves before I lost my board (No ding strings then)
I don't think it was twice this size in '69. I was out on 2 of the days. Its hard to tell without a camera angle from out in the takeoff. I can still remember the big set waves coming down the line from indicator's. It sounded like a frieght train was going to run over you. Me and my friend walked all the way up to the point, waited for a lull (there weren't any really) and went for it. We made it outside about 20 yards from the road. I caught 2 waves outside before we both moved in past that one section and caught a few more. Maybe 5 waves all day. There were a couple of guys who were shredding. Most everyone else, myself included, would just try to survive.
I saw the 69 swell and it was twice the size of this. I saw David Nuuhiwa going back side on a huge roller way, way, out away from the land. Incredible.
Ya these angles are too close even for normal surfing. My guess is when zooming out just a bit they were getting lots of glare and highlights from whitewash or even horizon glare. Looks like color was really challenging this day with al the mist blurring the image.
Common thing videographers neglect is the overall context. And when they do pan out, it's usually for like half a second. Still, I really appreciate this look cause the scene there is hectic and I rather not fight the crowds.
@@vandrive5687 It's excellent videography and coverage, and the poster probably agrees, he's just offering some constructive criticism. And, for all it's worth, I agree with him.
the big day last year was maybe 2/3 the size of this. I missed this one I was out of the country just returned earlier today. great filiming. props to all of those who made the paddle out, it's almost impossible.
'With no crowds, it is totally worth the paddle, even if you don't make it past the shorebreak. There is more satisfaction in trying to make it out on a 12" day without making a single wave than making 10 waves on a five feet day with 200 people in the water.
What - after putting in a solid hour or two filming Ventura you hit it up and covered a 6X overhead session at Rincon?! Love your dedication. Great camerawork! Never seen it at the size - ever. I'm guessing you continued up the coast after this film session and caught SB Harbor at low tide to finish off your day! Or maybe even nailed a Quad-fecta and and scored El Capitan at sundown!
Maybe the swell direction was off but I expected to see more makeable barrels. I am not a SoCal surfer but in my 65 years I swear I've seen some good barreling waves at Rincon. Bathymetry tells the truth I guess, SoCal point breaks just don't have it when compared to OZ. But it still woulda been really fun to ride ;-)
Whats with aussies and poorly educated comparisons? You know, I could kick your Grandma's ass, but thats not saying much is it? Our bight and storm source is much different from OZ, so why would they be comparable? Don't use words like bathymetry unless a good/accurate idea follows it. The cove is one of the best multifaceted waves on the planet--and part of the reason for that is the reduction of swell energy carving out the point over time. If we didnt have point conception, the bight and channel islands cutting size, The Con would never be. Oi oi oi
Wow, sick video! Anyone ever been caught in the Rincon river and almost end up over by those rocks near the hwy? That was a learning lesson for sure..lol
97/98 January, cant remember the year exactly was about the same size. i got washed up on the breakwater and had to run up to the freeway with my leash dangling. There was a outside peak that would break about 200 yards off the point to the south east (ventura side). It would reform on the sets and break like it is shown here. I wish there was film of that potato patch this swell.
Something about 1969. That summer a huge south swell hit Malibu. First time I ever surfed there at night. Well 4am when it was still dark. We surfed maybe 2 hrs then got out and ate breakfast. When we came back to the beach. ?? Same thing. Just started getting bigger and bigger. 4ft at 5am and then by 1pm it was 10-12 ft and growing. 6 guys out. That's it. (Not me) Mickey Dora, Johnny Fain Mike Tabeling, Dewey Weber and a couple others. They were riding from 3rd point all the way thru the bay then shooting the pier and then kicking out some 200 ft down the beach. What did we do then..?? We went home packed up and went to Baja. Got there before dark at high tide. K-38. 12- 15 ft. Spent the next 3 days surfing different spots until the swell went away. This was pre-leash so I knew not to take my board so I borrowed this kids nearly brand new 8'6" and totally wrecked it..
It's is intreguing to watch breaks along the coast that is usually not necessarily BIG like these storms and to watch the break much like it is at 10' or there abouts...
Going to ventura tomorrow just to witness it. Taking friends and good video camera weather permitting an air2 too. Never have seen waves this big here.
I loved to see it,I remember well sharing a wave with my knee boarder brother, my self on a 6’ 4” spear (we are Britt’s)….we crisscross ed all the way the way to the road and walked back with grins a mile wide😂😂❤round the early 80’s,10’++
Growing up, we never used the term XXL unless it was 20 foot+ hawaiian. And the XXL awards usually gets given to someone who has ridden a 20'+ wave. But the term seems to be getting casually thrown around these days. Like the word literally, it's misused a lot
This swell was as big as I’ve seen the SB coast. However, I wouldn’t say it was noticeably bigger than some of the other big swells we’ve had over the last ten years. Tops it was a couple feet bigger on sets. Funny thing is you take a trip about 2 hours north to Jalama and you get waves that big 5-10 times a year. Too bad Jalama doesn’t have a 10 minute right hand point 😂 PS can anyone fathom how good the ranch was?
@@JohnnygSawyer honestly since I moved to Buellton I’ve been out at Jalama bunch. I’ve also been to Pismo that’s supposed to be more sharky. I’ve never seen one either spot and people surf and camp there all the time and have never been attacked. I did get kind of freaked out once when I saw 1/2 of a sea lion on the beach one time. But hey it was a 40 minute drive out there and it was shoulder high on a week day with no one surfing but me. I’m still alive 😁👍
Yea listen you guys where where you when the piers all went down anybody surf Malibu over10ft. 3people out real green offshore all week open lAGoon made a barrel threw all of #2loint howabout round 93or94 that new zeland swell thAt lasted Almost 3 weeks Rincon was so big it was in surfBle so was lacon hits we didn't care bout getting arrested.little drakes was breaking on this outter slab then the inside was breaking outside 10ft. Little. Drakes .r.u fuckin kidding me.. youde take off round the point way out side I mean skairey,Sharkey if you made it too the meat part of the wave you were presented with double up spitting ,bowling Barrell there was tubes so big didn't matter what size board you had ,didn't matter on your trajectory way down the line round razor blades most northern peak disaster. Would not let you out, ask g. Trafton or d. Hiltonhow gnarleyitwasbut nothing compares to first jetty behind the jetty take offs, minus tide north swell ,offshore at six ft. Plus not as long as the spit but incredibly deep tubes .n. coming. Out oyea l..drakes ten ft. First point but at fifteen out by boey or closed out Rincon ,even sarlo knows we got the locations we donthoweverget the sand .n.swell direction n crazy ass storms from the past..b mack(Capt.)intosh
I got an 11 minute barrel at Jalama once. I was February 1878 and we called that swell Little Wednesday because it was the only day Jalama was under 30 feet for the entire month.
how many undocumented days went by during the "NO CAMERAS" era of the 1960's & 70's....? "it makes me wonder.." 🎶🎶 thanks for posting. And BIG props to all the surfers (dudes and dudettets😉!) who surfed there on this historic day!!! CHEERS~!!!! 👏👏🍻🍻👍👍🤙🤙✌✌🌊🌊🙌🙌
Wait. Whu....? (Heart beating faster) LOL...I thought you said that was Rincon in the title....... Oh. You DiD!! ~~~~~~THATS the craziest thing ive ever seen. Rinconnnnn?!?!?!?!?
the winter of 68-69 was as big. maybe bigger. it is a hard call to make. not a lot of footage of that swell. i do remember reno aberlero ( sorry about the spelling) and another surfer named forky with some incredible rides shown in surfer magazine. at it's peak the waves were closing out from rincon point to the oil pier.
Not the biggest. Winter 95 had swells about the same size and I think that might have been the last time they tried to rebuild the Ventura Pier after the surf knocked it down?
This is the largest Rincon I’ve ever seen in my 55 years.
1982-1983
I was going to say December 1983, cleaner maybe not bigger. Then there was that famous swell in the 70s.@@thomasnilsson7589
It's not larger than December 1969...
Not
My most spectacular wipe out was on the 69 swell where I bounced down the face for over 100 yards before the wave let me submerge and stop and that was on the reef 200 yards out past Indicator, it was breaking out there that day. I moved into the cove and had a blast, and after about an hour alone two surfers from British Columbia joined me. A session I’ll always remember. It was really fun. By the way that was when I was a knee boarder. Eventually I switched to stand up and then surfski, which turned out to be my favorite way to ride waves, but sadly I’ll retired now, but still enjoy watching great days like this one.
Not bad, but back in 1812 my colleagues and I bound some flotsam together with tar and twine and road the swell of the century at Rincon. No UA-cam back in those days of course, but I believe there is still an oil painting of our ride at the LA County museum.
Yeah I heard the winter of 1812 was bigger than '97 and 03
I was there that day...
Winter '69 was among
Winter of 1969 was big!
Your colleagues? WTF???? You mean to say your fellow soldiers as all of you went AWOL from the battle lines of Washington DC in the war of 1812 against the British.
Then escaping persecution you fled the country and headed west to California into Mexican territory as it was several years away before California became a State in the Union. You made up makeshift surfboards and were frolicking in waters teaming wirh fish and abalone. You surfed killer waves by day and by night drank tequila and played around with the Rancheros Spanish Speaking Daughters. Meanwhile back at your post you were not there and the British Set Fire to the Whitehouse. James Madison our 4th President was pissed and sent a possee out after you but they were captured and killed by Native Americans in the badlands of the Dakotas.
Surfing Rincon in 1812! Getting the moment captured by a painter on canvass. You freaking bastards!
Arrived around 11AM and couldn't believe how big it was. Watched for an hour, and decided to paddle out on my 5'9 lol paddled horizontally in front of the rivermouth, and after a few duck dives I miraculously reached the outside. Or so I thought, after a few minutes I was cleaned up by two huge whitewater and at this point I was so far in that I decided to let it wash me to the shore. But then I realized the shorebreak was too strong and kept pushing me over the rocks, so I decided to climb them and jump over the guard rail and walk it out thru the bike lane. At this point I was so exhausted and happy to be out of the water. Kudos to all the legends dropping these giant waves, it was so strong and heavy. Didn't imagine Rincon could get this large.
Thanks for sharing this!
At least you tried
❤
I can't say this is the biggest swell to hit Rincon, but a surfing buddy and I were there in November 1969 (as I recall). He was home on leave from the Vietnam war. The large sets - about 10ft or more - kept us on the beach. Neither of us was a big wave surfer. At any rate, the waves were so powerful that day, huge boulders from the sea wall were tossed onto the highway. They were about the size of a VW Beetle! The CHP had to guide traffic very slowly through and around all those boulders. We could also park on the highway back then, and my car was covered with salt from the spray. Also, this was before board leashes, so when someone lost a board in a wipeout, it would explode into pieces of fiberglass and foam against the sea wall. Nature was in charge that day.
I actually remember that storm in 69.
Grande juevos frios
I was there in 69 also. Later in 1980 I moved to a condo about 5 minutes from there in Carpinteria. Good times.
Dec 6, 1969
I remember having to drive south around then...as a 10 yr old in the car. I was scared to death...water was coming heavy onto the 101.
What a day! My 6’3 was not enough out there yesterday but I snagged one solid one and took a lot of beatings. Awesome. Paddle out at 9am was manageable but it just kept getting bigger by the minute. Must have grown 3x by noon. Thanks for the memories.
What was the swell direction/period/size?
Absolutely, would love a whole lineup shot
@louisleprince5573 Tell that to the guys at the Eddie. Tow-ins I agree with you though.
Had my 8'0 brewer this day.n.it was at least6ft. Bigger me .n. some guy called it the biggest day ever ripped just me n the riddler idic was fuckin in saine you'd get barreld all the way through river mouth late Afternoon minus tide.n.real strong offshores surfed little drakesthat glass off better than v,land on its best day sorry mason m.sherman
I surfed Rincon as big or bigger around 2001, on the straight West 270 degree swell that broke the bathroom structure off the Venice Pier. Swell was 21 feet at 20 seconds, and unusually, because of the 270 degree angle, all of it was hitting Rincon, not just the usual leftovers that make it down the channel between the channel islands and Point Conception. Less than ten of us made the paddle out in the morning when it was bombing, with cloud breaks 1/3 of a mile out to sea from the main point, that were backing off then reforming on the point. Never saw or heard of it doing that ever, before or since. There must be footage of that day somewhere. I saw one wave outside the Indicator, from where I was way out at the river mouth section, that unless the guy riding it was 4" tall, had to have had a twenty five foot plus face. I've been around the world, surfing the North Shore of Oahu and lots of big heavy spots, but that day at Rincon was the biggest surf I've personally ever been out in. OK, I admit I've never surfed Jaws or Nazare, or even full size Waimea. But, hey, whatever. The current was pulling down the point so fast, that I and others were in fear of loosing our lives on the freeway rocks. I ended up having to straighten out on a set wave up near the river mouth, get mowed down, then paddle for my life to make it to the shore just before the rocks. It was heavy. This new footage is the only time I've seen it close to that big, but I haven't seen anything close to those far outside Indicator bombs, or the cloud break outside the main point. Great to see it big though, but these guys, and it looked like quite a few were able to make the paddle out, were surfing in more or less the outer reaches of the usual break zones, and not the outer reef stuff I had to deal with on that one swell a couple of decades ago. Anyone know the bouy size reading, angle and period of this swell? Anyone have footage of Ventura Overhead on this day?
That’s gnarly, did you get out yesterday?
Someone else commented 1812 was bigger than 2001
The outer bombora did break in 69. When that shows you know it's big.
@@SlowWaves1689 was the biggest, you youngins don’t even know
@@ChickenJoe-tq6xd 1903 at Sebastian Inlet was 3x this
1982-83 el nino swell was MUCH, MUCH bigger. The surf was rubbing the bottom of oil piers and rincon island pier. 20-25' only about 12-15 guys were out, and leashes were snapping like peanut brittle. I was on the crewboats there off the point. We had to shelter in hueneme. Yes, ive surfed since 77
Yes 82-83 was huge. I live up on bailard Ave up the road back then. I was to little to surf but went and watched it from the bluffs. I Older guys told me the el nino storms in 69 were pretty big to.
Submit most watching this vid weren’t alive 40yrs ago.
@@vandrive5687 True. Im old LOL
I started surfing in 1976 but didnt get serious until 83
Damn grandpa
The '69 swell was twice this size ~ Few made it out and few even caught any waves ~ Mostly it was scratching for the horizon in fear for your life. Nobody caught the biggest waves they were just fearsome. I made it out from the highway riding the backwash jumping off the rocks. Not long after all the parked vehicles had to move to the land side of the highway where no damage could be done by the force of waves crossing the whole highway ~ I caught 3 waves before I lost my board (No ding strings then)
2006 swell was bigger.
I don't think it was twice this size in '69. I was out on 2 of the days. Its hard to tell without a camera angle from out in the takeoff. I can still remember the big set waves coming down the line from indicator's. It sounded like a frieght train was going to run over you. Me and my friend walked all the way up to the point, waited for a lull (there weren't any really) and went for it. We made it outside about 20 yards from the road. I caught 2 waves outside before we both moved in past that one section and caught a few more. Maybe 5 waves all day. There were a couple of guys who were shredding. Most everyone else, myself included, would just try to survive.
I saw the 69 swell and it was twice the size of this. I saw David Nuuhiwa going back side on a huge roller way, way, out away from the land. Incredible.
@@jacobsmith4284hardly. Plus that was a jumbled mess
@@JohnDoe-ko5xl: You’re a prick!! ...& either drunk or grammatically incompetent or both!
I've definitely been out at Rincon when it's been that big in the past. I sure miss it, not living close anymore. So much fun!
What a shame there were no wide angles of it. Would have been nice to see it running down the point
@@JohnDoe-ko5xl Wow what a baby.
Ya these angles are too close even for normal surfing.
My guess is when zooming out just a bit they were getting lots of glare and highlights from whitewash or even horizon glare. Looks like color was really challenging this day with al the mist blurring the image.
Common thing videographers neglect is the overall context. And when they do pan out, it's usually for like half a second. Still, I really appreciate this look cause the scene there is hectic and I rather not fight the crowds.
Disagree! This mesmerizing perfect footage is cathartic just watching.
@@vandrive5687 It's excellent videography and coverage, and the poster probably agrees, he's just offering some constructive criticism. And, for all it's worth, I agree with him.
beautiful day! great footage!!
This is huge!! Never imagined it could hold a swell this big!! Awesome!!
15 ft rincon was 🫡 massive today
Insane.. I couldn’t make it out yesterday so thanks for the footage!!
the big day last year was maybe 2/3 the size of this. I missed this one I was out of the country just returned earlier today. great filiming. props to all of those who made the paddle out, it's almost impossible.
Caught the best two waves of my life there yesterday. River mouth to the highway. So glad I bought a 6’8 the day before.
So very plz’d for U sir!! Well done!!👊👍🙌🏄♂️
You need an 8'4"
Beautiful footage of a spectacular day!!
'With no crowds, it is totally worth the paddle, even if you don't make it past the shorebreak. There is more satisfaction in trying to make it out on a 12" day without making a single wave than making 10 waves on a five feet day with 200 people in the water.
I've been waitin to see this. It didn't take long. Thanks!
What - after putting in a solid hour or two filming Ventura you hit it up and covered a 6X overhead session at Rincon?! Love your dedication. Great camerawork! Never seen it at the size - ever. I'm guessing you continued up the coast after this film session and caught SB Harbor at low tide to finish off your day! Or maybe even nailed a Quad-fecta and and scored El Capitan at sundown!
Yes Sir
El Cap clip would be nice@@SlowWaves
Bad guess. Only wishful thinking.
6x overhead?
6x is 36 foot?
I'm so jealous right now. I really missed it and will come to teach you barns how is done next one.
Seriously though, good for you guys. Stay sick.
It's actually handling the size quite well, very interesting
Think this is biggest Rincon I’ve ever seen on video. Thanks SW🏄
Maybe the swell direction was off but I expected to see more makeable barrels. I am not a SoCal surfer but in my 65 years I swear I've seen some good barreling waves at Rincon. Bathymetry tells the truth I guess, SoCal point breaks just don't have it when compared to OZ. But it still woulda been really fun to ride ;-)
Never saw that size at Rincon. Beyond any kind of forecasts
🤔🤣
The difference in this swell was the direction and the higher tides.
yea go back down under, put another shrimp on the Barbie and buggar off Foo🤨😂
Whats with aussies and poorly educated comparisons? You know, I could kick your Grandma's ass, but thats not saying much is it? Our bight and storm source is much different from OZ, so why would they be comparable? Don't use words like bathymetry unless a good/accurate idea follows it. The cove is one of the best multifaceted waves on the planet--and part of the reason for that is the reduction of swell energy carving out the point over time. If we didnt have point conception, the bight and channel islands cutting size, The Con would never be. Oi oi oi
Wow, sick video! Anyone ever been caught in the Rincon river and almost end up over by those rocks near the hwy? That was a learning lesson for sure..lol
we paddled out at first light it was simply overhead. Couple hours after. 3x overhead that was crazy. It literally happened in 20 minutes!
97/98 January, cant remember the year exactly was about the same size. i got washed up on the breakwater and had to run up to the freeway with my leash dangling. There was a outside peak that would break about 200 yards off the point to the south east (ventura side). It would reform on the sets and break like it is shown here. I wish there was film of that potato patch this swell.
Awesome story, thanks 🙏
Looks super dangerous, much respect 🤙🏼
Guy at 3:40 knows what's up. Good job.
This day will go down in the annals
How do you get in on a day like this at rincon? Down by la conchita ?
Something about 1969. That summer a huge south swell hit Malibu. First time I ever surfed there at night. Well 4am when it was still dark. We surfed maybe 2 hrs then got out and ate breakfast. When we came back to the beach. ?? Same thing. Just started getting bigger and bigger. 4ft at 5am and then by 1pm it was 10-12 ft and growing. 6 guys out. That's it. (Not me) Mickey Dora, Johnny Fain Mike Tabeling, Dewey Weber and a couple others. They were riding from 3rd point all the way thru the bay then shooting the pier and then kicking out some 200 ft down the beach. What did we do then..?? We went home packed up and went to Baja. Got there before dark at high tide. K-38. 12- 15 ft. Spent the next 3 days surfing different spots until the swell went away. This was pre-leash so I knew not to take my board so I borrowed this kids nearly brand new 8'6" and totally wrecked it..
It's is intreguing to watch breaks along the coast that is usually not necessarily BIG like these storms and to watch the break much like it is at 10' or there abouts...
Going to ventura tomorrow just to witness it. Taking friends and good video camera weather permitting an air2 too. Never have seen waves this big here.
Nice to hear the surf. Instead of someone's bad taste in music.lol
I loved to see it,I remember well sharing a wave with my knee boarder brother, my self on a 6’ 4” spear (we are Britt’s)….we crisscross ed all the way the way to the road and walked back with grins a mile wide😂😂❤round the early 80’s,10’++
Beautiful story brother. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Growing up, we never used the term XXL unless it was 20 foot+ hawaiian. And the XXL awards usually gets given to someone who has ridden a 20'+ wave. But the term seems to be getting casually thrown around these days. Like the word literally, it's misused a lot
word …xxl is a lot bigger than double overhead
Californians measure the face and Hawaiians measure the backside, right?
I was surfing that from 10am-12pm. Biggest I’ve ever surfed.
Were ya 💩’n yourself?
i was 1-5pm, Hawaiian style boards required at times
In all my years on the planet I've never seen Rincon barrel like that. Rincon is like SO in Orange County most years.
Rincon so big people not dropping in on each other left and right. Wow!
There have been so many days out there with no cameras around so I guess we will never know but we know about Hype and that is the really Big wave
Nope, 97 was bigger. Thanks for sharing the video.
Why is everyone taking off so late and why are there no longboards to solve that problem?
This swell was as big as I’ve seen the SB coast. However, I wouldn’t say it was noticeably bigger than some of the other big swells we’ve had over the last ten years. Tops it was a couple feet bigger on sets. Funny thing is you take a trip about 2 hours north to Jalama and you get waves that big 5-10 times a year. Too bad Jalama doesn’t have a 10 minute right hand point 😂 PS can anyone fathom how good the ranch was?
Jalama is too sharky for my taste (or it's taste) 😂
@@JohnnygSawyer honestly since I moved to Buellton I’ve been out at Jalama bunch. I’ve also been to Pismo that’s supposed to be more sharky. I’ve never seen one either spot and people surf and camp there all the time and have never been attacked. I did get kind of freaked out once when I saw 1/2 of a sea lion on the beach one time. But hey it was a 40 minute drive out there and it was shoulder high on a week day with no one surfing but me. I’m still alive 😁👍
Yea listen you guys where where you when the piers all went down anybody surf Malibu over10ft. 3people out real green offshore all week open lAGoon made a barrel threw all of #2loint howabout round 93or94 that new zeland swell thAt lasted Almost 3 weeks Rincon was so big it was in surfBle so was lacon hits we didn't care bout getting arrested.little drakes was breaking on this outter slab then the inside was breaking outside 10ft. Little. Drakes .r.u fuckin kidding me.. youde take off round the point way out side I mean skairey,Sharkey if you made it too the meat part of the wave you were presented with double up spitting ,bowling Barrell there was tubes so big didn't matter what size board you had ,didn't matter on your trajectory way down the line round razor blades most northern peak disaster. Would not let you out, ask g. Trafton or d. Hiltonhow gnarleyitwasbut nothing compares to first jetty behind the jetty take offs, minus tide north swell ,offshore at six ft. Plus not as long as the spit but incredibly deep tubes .n. coming. Out oyea l..drakes ten ft. First point but at fifteen out by boey or closed out Rincon ,even sarlo knows we got the locations we donthoweverget the sand .n.swell direction n crazy ass storms from the past..b mack(Capt.)intosh
I got an 11 minute barrel at Jalama once. I was February 1878 and we called that swell Little Wednesday because it was the only day Jalama was under 30 feet for the entire month.
@@Miles_Goodson_Bangs_Kids it’s good to hear stories of our elders. Over 150 and still hip enough to troll on UA-cam. Impressive.
how many undocumented days went by during the "NO CAMERAS" era of the 1960's & 70's....? "it makes me wonder.." 🎶🎶 thanks for posting. And BIG props to all the surfers (dudes and dudettets😉!) who surfed there on this historic day!!! CHEERS~!!!! 👏👏🍻🍻👍👍🤙🤙✌✌🌊🌊🙌🙌
Glad you enjoyed it
I remember a big day, must have been around 1985, but I was at Emma Wood... probably half the size of the biggest waves here. Will never forget it.
Im 13 and i surfed this swell last winter. Gnarliest ever
Nice` thanks
super mellow take offs... in general.
Some very soft surfing.
What fun! Having surfed the 1969 swell, this video doesn’t show anything to match the set waves, but great day isn’t it?
the light around 1:54 or so ...wow
what's up with the claim at 5:30
Probably a Brazzo
Wait. Whu....? (Heart beating faster) LOL...I thought you said that was Rincon in the title.......
Oh.
You DiD!!
~~~~~~THATS the craziest thing ive ever seen. Rinconnnnn?!?!?!?!?
3:50 to 4:00 the light again !
Almost a novelty wave at this size.
What day was this? My brother was there today 29th, he said it was big.
Yesterday
@@SlowWaves thanks, did you video today too? Your camera is nice. Really stoked you posted this.
Sorry but I have to say the surfer at 3:36 managed his speed beautifully
damn, looks like maxing haleiwa
the winter of 68-69 was as big. maybe bigger. it is a hard call to make. not a lot of footage of that swell. i do remember reno aberlero ( sorry about the spelling) and another surfer named forky with some incredible rides shown in surfer magazine. at it's peak the waves were closing out from rincon point to the oil pier.
No Big Deal. It was 5x this big in winter 1892. Caught the best wave of my life. No footage, it wasn't invented yet.
Did you hear about the swell of 1812?
@13:35 thats me... creased my beloved 9'8" on that wave. Deep, turbulent hold down too! Not long after it snapped.
Thanks for sharing 🙏
'82 AND '98 were big and this swell is comparable 💯
Nice call
True surf was 10 to 15 fn amazing
Rincon beach showing its teef.
83 was a pretty good year
Shoulda been there in 1983! Or 1969 too!
i surfed there yesterday im looking for my clips 😭
Fun size. Not packing my wetsuit, buy still turtle nicking.
I caught a day there took off alone on outter bowl, new board, ate my lunch, hit head and had to get in. Its was about 15'
Thanks for sharing!
? Was Tom Curren out
Is it me or are those waves sloooowww.
Was it me, or were those the slowest barreling waves ever?
good call
Let's see Bobby on this.
Speed management is the key here...
'69 was definitely bigger. I had many days like this in the mid '70s
Big for Rincon, medium for Oregon
Utah!
Easy to get your own wave at that size. Been there, done that. Just need a little longer board to catch them.
Stay on the high line and just pump as fast as you can
Surfed it bigger in the early 80s.
I wonder where Rincon is, The only thing on the map is in Georgia... 😮
seemed like the biggest ones weren't makeable on the inside. dude at 3:21 had a nice roll in into an absolute meat grinder of an inside section.
Morra Bombora?
Where are da boyz? Dane, Bobby and Connor? Just a bunch of recreational surfers too bad no ripping.
Reminds me of Honolua Bay without the pits🤠
Seems like it candle handle that size
No one is doing a nose ride today?
Visitors be careful of the sea wall!
Biggest Rincon I’ve ever seen. That’s triple overhead.
Gorgeous.
Thank you! 😊
When the Queen of the Coast becomes Big Momma....she will chew you up and spit you out on the sea wall
Not the biggest. Winter 95 had swells about the same size and I think that might have been the last time they tried to rebuild the Ventura Pier after the surf knocked it down?
I think the '69 swell was at least that big or bigger.
Biggest I've ever seen it and I've been surfing since 1969.
my cuz posted me some from nor cal santa cruz puts rincon to shame
Joe Biden at 3:16. Finally some respect...
Proper!!!
Where’s Bobby Martinez when you need him?
oxnard tubes
Levine, is that you?
Big but too high tide & bumpy swell. Yep, BIG, but thick & sectioning off, not the streamline huge Rincon we've ridden in past.