I have a L134 and doing something similar. You are absolutely correct about the hot intake robbing power from this lil motor. The F134 exhaust manifold fits the L134 perfect. The factory F134 only have one bolt on the outer ports. Check out the F134 exhaust manifold it will work perfectly.
I had the same thought. I took an 1/8 inch thick piece of aluminum and slipped it where the gasket was between both intakes and coated both sides with high heat RTV. DONE! One out of 4 I did needed holes in manifold opened up some to allow for height change.
Your intake manifold came out very nice, great job. Your spot on with temperature of the intake air. 100ºF intake air temp. is the preferred temp. by Ford and GM, back in the day when cars had carburetors. I also like the fact you made a velocity stack, to use with your open air filter. Most people don't realize the carburetor has a harder time intaking turbulent air than non-turbulent air. That is the reason most air cleaners have a snorkel, and are designed to maximize air flow to the carburetor. The open chrome air cleaners often seen on hot rods are more for looks and sound, not performance... and often reduce performance.
Yes and the short length of the manifold can be made up for by making the intake pipe longer. Of course the optimum length needs to be determined on a dyno but anything is better than nothing.
Nice job. I am of the opinion that the colder and dencer the intake the better. I am planning on coating the exhaust of mine and gold wrapping the area where the exhaust and intakes are close. I also undid the heat riser. Please eradicate that hood scoop! Lol
Nice little bit of fabrication. I've always believed that the hot intake made little difference to charge density. The charge isn't in the intake long enough to gain much heat and it undergoes evaporative cooling from the gasoline droplets evaporating. The hot intake walls do prevent fuel condensing on them. Keeping the air cool before it reaches the carb is another thing though. That hood scoop should have helped. Isolating the intake air from the engine compartment's hot air even more might help more, but eventually you would run into carb icing problems. By it's design that engine is never going to put out much power. I think they were rated at 60hp or so and that was probably optimistic. Compression ratio is probably under 7:1 and the under square design results in low rpm torque, not so much hp. Tiny as it seems that carb will supply more fuel and air than that engine can use.
Thanks for the input. Im not sure what the compression ratio is on this engine but its boored .060 over and the head and block skimmed quite a bit. Making power is all about removing the weak points and I think that manifold was a big one.
Ese diseño no fue erroneo, debido al uso q se le daría a esos vehículos, los hace simples y efectivos en todo escenario, con la ventaja de calentar mas rápido x lo tanto menos posibilidades de apagarse, ademas de usar, relaciones de compresión relativamente bajas para poder usar casi cualquier tipo de gasolina, keroseno, o mezclas de diesel, gasolina etc, es un motor flexible, y la combinación de puntos calientes y cabeza plana (flat), de baja compresión, permite a este vehículo funcionar casi imparable
I have a L134 and doing something similar. You are absolutely correct about the hot intake robbing power from this lil motor. The F134 exhaust manifold fits the L134 perfect. The factory F134 only have one bolt on the outer ports. Check out the F134 exhaust manifold it will work perfectly.
I really enjoy your fabrication work. Thanks so much for sharing. It looked factory when completed.
I had the same thought. I took an 1/8 inch thick piece of aluminum and slipped it where the gasket was between both intakes and coated both sides with high heat RTV. DONE! One out of 4 I did needed holes in manifold opened up some to allow for height change.
Your intake manifold came out very nice, great job. Your spot on with temperature of the intake air. 100ºF intake air temp. is the preferred temp. by Ford and GM, back in the day when cars had carburetors. I also like the fact you made a velocity stack, to use with your open air filter. Most people don't realize the carburetor has a harder time intaking turbulent air than non-turbulent air. That is the reason most air cleaners have a snorkel, and are designed to maximize air flow to the carburetor. The open chrome air cleaners often seen on hot rods are more for looks and sound, not performance... and often reduce performance.
Yes and the short length of the manifold can be made up for by making the intake pipe longer. Of course the optimum length needs to be determined on a dyno but anything is better than nothing.
thats a nice jeep, your lucky to have it. keep it going and never let it die.
"you're", not "your" genius
I was up late on night and I came across you great work and great video's keep up the good work
I put a 2 Barrel Webber on mine ! Webber sells Carb and adapter kit which raises it 1"- 1 1/2". Works Great !! More power and better fuel economy !
It's awesome cool but why not run 2 macuni motorcycle carburetors and be done with it??
nice work, sweet Jeep
Nice job. I am of the opinion that the colder and dencer the intake the better. I am planning on coating the exhaust of mine and gold wrapping the area where the exhaust and intakes are close. I also undid the heat riser. Please eradicate that hood scoop! Lol
Nice work might isuggest heat wrap to go the extra mile. Did agreat job with the space given
Yes I might do that or maybe some small heat shields. But I will wait till summer and get a temperature reading on it.
Nice little bit of fabrication.
I've always believed that the hot intake made little difference to charge density. The charge isn't in the intake long enough to gain much heat and it undergoes evaporative cooling from the gasoline droplets evaporating. The hot intake walls do prevent fuel condensing on them.
Keeping the air cool before it reaches the carb is another thing though. That hood scoop should have helped. Isolating the intake air from the engine compartment's hot air even more might help more, but eventually you would run into carb icing problems.
By it's design that engine is never going to put out much power. I think they were rated at 60hp or so and that was probably optimistic. Compression ratio is probably under 7:1 and the under square design results in low rpm torque, not so much hp. Tiny as it seems that carb will supply more fuel and air than that engine can use.
I agree 100% with your whole statement... but you don't want the intake as hot as the exhaust manifold.
Thanks for the input. Im not sure what the compression ratio is on this engine but its boored .060 over and the head and block skimmed quite a bit. Making power is all about removing the weak points and I think that manifold was a big one.
Ese diseño no fue erroneo, debido al uso q se le daría a esos vehículos, los hace simples y efectivos en todo escenario, con la ventaja de calentar mas rápido x lo tanto menos posibilidades de apagarse, ademas de usar, relaciones de compresión relativamente bajas para poder usar casi cualquier tipo de gasolina, keroseno, o mezclas de diesel, gasolina etc, es un motor flexible, y la combinación de puntos calientes y cabeza plana (flat), de baja compresión, permite a este vehículo funcionar casi imparable
Nice work
Whats with the big fuel filter??? Looks like complete overkill lol.
youtube mustve cut you off,you really need new gloves...lol nice job as always,nice to see a real jeep instead of some plastic crap today
Yes sir I wear them till there is nothing left but the cuffs lol
How you can keep both exhaust and intake from leaking is beyond me.
Nice job 👍👍👍