I also suggest applying pressure to the peltier cooler, in my many experiments I have found that clamping the cooler to the heatsink increases thermal transfer greatly. Also the maximum temperature differential is very different to actual energy pumped, the higher power coolers will maintain a smaller temperature delta but will pump a lot more energy than the lower power ones.
I agree with this from my experience cryocooling CPUs, some clamping force is almost always needed. The clamping fixture must not transfer heat from one side to the other however.
We should also consider the quality and type of thermal paste used. I think that you should try using arctic mx-4 or other high quality pastes used to build PC's.
they issue I have is these are amp driven. you are not using the 06 and 10 to there full potential. if you need 0c degrees, the 03 would be good enough.
Impresssive, thank you for all your effor!. I will consider the results for my next projects. At the moment I build some "fermentation boxes" for sourdough for friends and family, so I use the hot side of the elements to heat up a box. I improved efficiency using the results of your fist video already.
Heat pipes works in any direction, but they tend to work better much better "right" side up, that can have a huge effect on how much heat they can transport. Also, the heat that needs to be dissipated is the power consumption, plus the pumped heat, even if the pumped heat isn't that much, it adds to the total load. But you've shown very well that adding more energy when heat dissipation is the main limiting factor won't result in lower temperature, and also that something designed for higher power doesn't have to be more efficient when there's a limiting factor stopping it for working in the range it's intended for. 3 amp modules are probably a good choice for most hobby projects, unless both the heat dissipation is good enough for higher power, and also higher power per module actually is needed, assuming a large temperature difference is needed, and not necessarily much heat flow at modest temperature difference.
Hi sir please help me, i am big fan your work, I learned a lot,i have two buck converters szbk07 and lb07, on both of them current adjustment option does not work even on load applied, i even changed the cc pot with 100k precision pot .how to fix this?please its really impotent to me
Are those bare wires you put into PSU ? No banana jacks ? What is contact resistance of those ? No wonder none of the Peltiers have pulled nominal current.
Hi Mr. Sorin, I love this follow up video regarding Peltier Modules. Ijust have a few questions: 1. with the experiments, the 12703 is the most efficient of the the 3 tested? 2. will the PM 12703 run efficiently at 9 Volts? whether I use 1 or 2 pcs of the module? 3 wiil the 12703 PM work on an air cooler with the cold side dipped in the water reservoir (with a heat sink attached) while the hot side is facing up with a cooling fan attached? 4. the #3 question's purpose is to cool down the water in the air cooler. 5. is the #4 question not practical for experiment or for long term use? Just asking rather than using an air conditioning unit.... Thanks for this video again...
1. 12703 is the most efficient. 2. you can use 2 modules, but they will need good cooling. 3. it will cool the water, but the hot side is in the same room, so it's not very efficient. it's ok for hobby projects, but you need to separate the hot side outside the room.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate the tables of measurements and your attention to other biases in the experiment. Could you test stacked Peltier modules? I plan to myself but it will be months because I am building something for a client right now. In military infrared cameras and some other applications they stack modules with different ratings and balance them so that the next stage up does not become overwhelmed. You'll need a lot of current to supply them however and some serious heat dissipation. A small scale test could involve putting a smaller module on one of the ones you have and using your existing cooler if you don't exceed 130W. I've always wondered what the practical gain would be in such an inexpensive arrangement. Take care brother.
I have 12706 peltier module, with 15v and 7 amps reach -27° C, with cooler master hyper h412r heatsink, your 12706 and 12710 module not drawing specs current, possible a fault unit
Thanks for you videos! I purchased a broken Fallout 4 mini fridge and am about to start fixing and improving it. It's been fascinating learning about how these Peltier devices work. My first question I must find is how much power delivered does the fridge already give??? Since it looks like the lower quality 12706, it's possible it already has the power needed for the 12703. Looks like a good excuse to purchase a volt meter to me!
I've just got into peltier experimentation for the first time. At the moment I've only got the 706 modules. It seems to be true that the hot side heatsink needs to be huge for this one. I found a CPU cooler on a scrap desktop so I'm using that for hot side with the fan set to run at full speed. Down to minus 8.7 C on cold side so far (been running 20 minutes). Powering it all from a small LiFeP04 battery. Voltage at this moment 12.73 current 3.75 amps including fan, which uses 300ma at full speed.
Agree 100%, especially because my applications are all for outdoor solar powered electronics.....the ability of the 03 modules to operate efficiently down at 9vDC gives me a little more wiggle room for parasitic current draws like cooling things getting cooked in the sun. As a personal project, i might have to try a similar concept on a game camera or two since they are notoriously easy to kill with only moderate heat or sun exposure. Many thanks for posting this comparison.
Nice video. I guess your "cold load" is far too small yet, so the lower power peltier gets too much of a advantage. A heatsink with cooler in the cold side, should improve the performance of higher power models and give a much better result. Just a guess through. Great work again.
The very final test would be to run a test where the hot side is at the same temperature for all test, and that could be achieved by water cooling. The higher power peltiers are creating more internal heat which needs to dissipated, hence when you have a more powerful cooler pulling the hot side to a constant temperature the results will look different
I tec cooled my canon t3i dslr for astro imaging. I opened the camera and packed thermal transfer pads to get the sensor heat out the back of the camera. I did not want to cut up the camera, so there is plastic thermal resistance. By far my best results are using two 12706 (60W) stacked (gives more thermal delta, but less cooling throughput). And only running them both at 3.5v, it lowered the sensor from 95F to 55F, and it makes a big difference in dark noise.
Hello Sorin, content suggestion: you could bring a complex project with a power bank with a built-in Android smartphone in conjunction with smart relays to control them remotely (turn on, turn off lamps, sockets, maintain with UPS and or turn on, turn off modems and routers and computers remotely in case of malfunction)
Hi, I watched this video and bought 2 of the 12703 . I have them hooked up to a 12.5 Amp 180 watt power supply found on Amazon. The hot side gets 140 degrees but cold side only gets to 64 degrees. What's my deal?
@Sorin_DIY Thanks for replying. I've got a 120mm by 70 mm heat sink that the 2 modules are thermal glued to and 2 40 mm heat sinks thermal glued to modules.
I wonder which ones would be best for stacking the TECs to increase thermal delta. I think I remember reading that the power needs to be increased 10-fold per stage to be effective. Somehow I don't think that's right and I would like to know how it actually works in practice. EDIT: I would also be interested to know how long each of these modules would take to chill a cup of water. I think the higher power ones have greater thermal transfer but a lower delta.
Another very useful test would be to put an exact quantity of ambient temperature water on the cold side, then run the same tests at different voltages/amperages and see which peltier moves heat better at different td's and amperages.
I have 8 of the 12706 ones that I bought at a pallet bin store. Think there was 5 in each pack for about $5 per pack. I gave a few to a friend. I have no idea what I'm going to use these for.
Would you also consider testing the SP1848 27145? I can't see if it's supposed to be a generator or a cooler, but I'd like to see how well it performs in cooling against the TEC127XX units you have. Even if you don't test generation, just pumping, that would still be interesting to see.
The efficiency is much greater at lower voltages and lower temperature delta. What about stacking a bunch on top of each other, running at a low voltage?
I wonder can we hook these TEC up in computer cooling, they seems like can help out pulling heat form CPU and GPUs and dump into heatsinks much quicker than old thermopastes only.
People were doing this 20+ years ago, but it uses a ton of electricity which mostly becomes heat you need to get rid of. There was a risk of condensation on the motherboard and short circuits. It was likely more hassle/cost than it is worth compared to watercooling and modern heatpipe heatsinks.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank you for your reply. Actually, the laser is pointed at the Peltier and a volt meter is used to measure how many mV are produced. That number is used to calculated roughly how powerful the laser pointer is. I will purchase a 12703 and experiment a little. Thank you for posting the link to the Peltier modules!
It needs 15A at 12v so a good cooler is needet. For me an old big 6 heatpipe cpu cooler wasnt enough, so i used an cheap used, but big aio watercooler. This works extremly well. Also good thermal paste and High pressure on the Modul is needet for good thermal Transfer. Otherweise it is possible to break the Modul... I also found out some Modules are Fake, at 12v the 127815 schould draw about 15A , maybe a bit less, but at least 10A. But fake ones draw about 1-3A, not 10-15. The 12706 schould draw about 4-6A , good quality Modules also do this but cheap (fake) ones draw 1-3A .
Oh just watched test 1 and now this one ... same request again ... Can you test the Peltier modules as generators? Apply hot and cold to each side, and see what kind of output the module produces. For example what happens if you put 20C on cold side and 30C on hot side? What kind of voltage and current is produced? Question would be this... can I use the inside of my house temp (say 20C) and the outside air temp (say 30C) to produce electricity to run my air conditioner? Or vice versa... inside of house temp is 20C but outside is minus 10C, so can I produce heat to warm up my house?
I will probably test them in a future video, but these Peltier modules are very inefficient. they will not produce enough energy to heat up the house. probably just to charge a phone.
30*30mm or 40*40mm which one is the dimensions of the 12703 peltier used in this video?? And what's the main difference between 40mm and 30mm, 12703 peltier apart from the size?
@Sorin_DIY Thank u so much for the information. From your previous videos I made a similar mini fridge of 5 litre capacity with water cooling, and it went to -5 degree Celsius with beverages full in it. Loved all of your videos a lot.
Tu video me ha inquietado con estas celulas, gracias por eso! Ahora bien, revisando los datasheet de los peltier encontre que la capacidad maxima de las celulas no es logrando la mayor diferencia de temperatura, por lo que estos resultados que muestras no dicen mucho en esa direccion. Si quieres saber que potencia entregan debe ser en un escenario tipo aire acondicionado donde la cara fria de las celulas se somenten a enormes cargas de calor, ahi es donde veras la potencia real de las 12706, 12710, etc. Te recomiendo rehacer la prueba con tu aire acondicionado y en la parte caliente utilizar refrigeracion liquida, pues el Qmax se logra con una diferencia de temperatura baja(
I have a doubt, the dimension of Tec1-12703 is 30mmx30mm, and Tec1-12704 is 40mmx40mm, but in video they all look same size how it is possible ??? please clarify....🤔🤔🤔
I actually love watching your videos. I hope this explanation doesn't offend you. This works as a refrigerator in a closed container. If you are trying to distribute the cold to another area with air (air conditioning) there will never be ice on the cold side heatsink because the ambient temp will overcome 90% of the cooling and, in general, defeat any chance that the cold side will get more than 10°C below ambient. The stronger the fan, the less temperature drops. This is why the higher powered devices are used. Not to see how cold the cold side CAN get. They may not be as cold but they will "recharge" (actually remove heat) from the cold side faster. Your readings would be taken at the hot side to see how much heat you need to remove from that side. The chip cold side reading will be about about 20 - 50°C lower than ambient and up to 70°C lower than the hot side. The reading of the air you blow across the cold side heatsink will be much, much higher than the chip cold side to the point of only a 2 or 3°C drop from room temperature (ambient). This is evident even when measuring air temp just 3 or 4cm from the cold side heatsink. The more powerful devices are used to overcome the powerful ability that normal air has to remove all the work (energy) done chilling (removing heat) from the peltier and spreading it all over the place. That's why a low powered device will hold temperature in an extremely well insulated, closed box but wont work as well if you try to distribute the "cold" into the same area you're working in. A high powered unit, maybe even a 24v model will work much better in those conditions. If you want, I can send you some real peltiers for you to run more tests on from CUI here in the USA
@@H-W Not theoretically, it is a waste of money to use Peltier coolers as an air conditioner. They have very little cooling power and bad efficiency, so you would need a lot of these devices to provide the same effect as a regular AC, and they would consume significantly more electricity. It is not worth it.
Y puedes poner celulas de peltier unas encima de otras y sumas el salto termico, ademas puedes aislar termicamente la zona caliente de la fria y eso aumenta el salto termico, pues puedes usar aislante del que se usa en climatizacion, o algo parecido. Pero tienes que tomar mas precauciones con la alimentacion de las celulas de peltier usando alimentacion de corriente constante.
I also Suggest a 12v 15Amps smps and test again 1210 peltier module I guarenteed More better performance...But also you are right because in 3amps power supply Better performance in 1203peltier module because maximum power rating 3apms and a 1210 peltier module Current Limit 10amps
Look like a solar-powered, Peltier plate chilled , 48 qt. Portable refrigerator will require a LOT more planning than I originally thought! Especially since this "large beer cooler" is for medical supplies/medicines chilled for several weeks on battery/solar power only. Done well, this well-insulated box, built as tough as possible, will maintain contents at or near 41 degrees F. without mains power. Wish us luck...disaster recovery is waiting for this one.
As usual a very good quality presentation which helped a lot. I was expecting the more powerful module to win the race but...lo and behold...the underdog. How about testing solar panels efficiency? Or how about greenhouse/hothouse efficiency? (plastic film versus glass or polycarbonate etc)
An instructive video as always. I hope to see a try with LED light + Peltier module. Led chip light produces a lot of heat, and work better when properly cooled. What about an average powerful led chip, lets say 50W, cooled by a Peltier, that is cooled by an heatsink? An interesting ideo of project.
as always, I appreciate the due diligence & listening to the community... the results look quite definitive! 👍 🤓👉I'd love to see you turn the best module into a portable/mini "air conditioner" for the summer heat! 🤔perhaps make it reversible so it can also work as a heater to soothe the winter chill! 👋cheers & looking forward to your next project!
Can't be done with current technology. These can keep a small enclosed and insulated container a low temperature but blow some air across that cold plate (cold heatsink) and the -10C goes up 35° instantly or somewhere barely under room temperature. The higher powered devices will draw more and less power as needed (power is in watts but if you hold a constant voltage the amps will increase or decrease which increases or decreases total watts) based on the amount of additional cooling needed. That means more power/energy/heat to remove from the hot side to get that delta in temps
Because of joule heating/i2r putting maximum rated current to peltier will result in lower COP. Refer to my youtube post on custom modules ive built. I use thermal glues instead of pastes since pastes dont have adhesive quality that glues have. Application method is same; just rub it on peltier as evenly as possible then glue it to back of waterblock. Tldr, treat them like a compressor system. Watercool both hot and cool side for best mileage. Dont exceed 33% of max rated current if dT is low, 50% if its high You should not be using a CPU heatsink. CPU heatsinks are not going to keep hotside near ambient since they dont have liquid actively moving heat away
MORE POWERFUL CHIP DOES NOT GUARANTEE LOWER TEMPERATURE. 10 Amp or even 15 Amp Chips can simply move more heat faster. Let's say you put the cold side of the peltier against very hot surface a 10 Amp Chip will cool it down more than 3 Amp Chip would.
im in order build mini water cooler peltier fan PLUS mini refigerator (dunno what im thinking but i like chill ambience on my desk and take one shot soft drink)😂 , in my case i just found -9 degrees celcius with 3x3cm peltier reaching so fast and only using usb c PD charging decoy port. its about 25 watt in smartphone adapter with volt amp meter (6v-7v) fast cooling and stable. and in another case, just found chinese cooling fan for smartphone 2,3cm peltier can reach -3 degrees celcius, 2,5cm peltier can reach -5 degrees C. stable. (edited : 2,3cm = -5 degrees, 2,5cm = -3 degrees) *i use proper thermo gun not that fake lcd indicators thats insane the voltage, fan and heatsink not heavy stuff only 5v - 1-2Amp
It seems like theres a lot of fake peltier modules out there that dont draw the rated current, i bought a 12712 peltier that only draws 4 amps @12v instead of the rated 12 amps. So its probably best to buy from some trusted supplier to make sure they are good quality modules.
e simplu: se lipeste elementul Peltier pe soba, iar pe partea cealalta ii trebuie un radiator prin care sa treaca aer mai rece; diferenta de temperatura intre cele doua suprafete va genera o diferenta de potential ; atentie insa sa nu depasesti limita maxima de temp. admisa in fisa tehnica
@@virgilius1979 nu neg ca asa se face si multumesc pentru raspuns. Dar doream ceva cam la 100w+ , ceva care sa gerereze curent prin usb pentru diverse dispozitive. Experienta celor care au facut asta mi ar fi de ajutor
Salut, trebuie sa fie diferenta mare de temperatura intre suprafete. daca soba e calda automat si aerul din camera va fi cald. ar trebui sa ai 60 grade C pe o parte si sub 0 grade pe cealalta parte. chiar si asa un singur modul produce o putere foarte mica, probabil mai putin de 1W.
It needs 15A at 12v so a good cooler is needet. For me an old big 6 heatpipe cpu cooler wasnt enough, so i used an cheap used, but big aio watercooler. This works extremly well. Also good thermal paste and High pressure on the Modul is needet for good thermal Transfer. Otherweise it is possible to break the Modul... I also found out some Modules are Fake, at 12v the 127815 schould draw about 15A , maybe a bit less, but at least 10A. But fake ones draw about 1-3A, not 10-15. The 12706 schould draw about 4-6A , good quality Modules also do this but cheap (fake) ones draw 1-3A .
The CPU cooler 150W rating will be based on a temperature difference much greater than you have there. If the temperature difference wasnt vital to performance you could just run it without the peltier plate and it would cool the top!! They are used to get a chip down from 90C to 40C in air of 20C. So a minimum of 20C difference and you can bet the manufacturer quotes the spec for 70C difference! Your air is 23C and the hottest the hot side got in the final test was 29C. Only 6C different. My hunch is you are simply not removing all the heat produced by the more powerful peltier plates and so not seeing the pumping effect.
The modules don't use exactly the same amount of current, there is a small difference between them. the higher the supply voltage, the higher the current consumption will be for all modules, so you need to limit the current according to the specs of each model. they can be powered with up to 15V and some of them even 16V. and also these modules are cheap and of low quality; high quality modules are very expensive and more accurate with the current consumption.
Good observation! The higher power modules "throttle down" because they don't have sufficient cooling on their hot side. He did not clamp down the modules, so they don't have sufficient contact with the CPU cooler. They borderline overheat and therefore they limit their own current. It is "just" a very bad experiment.
Acabo de notar que aun teniendo mejor disipador en la cara caliente el 12703 no logró bajar a cero en 30 segundos y es que por su baja potencia es muy sensible a la carga de trabajo. Con solo ese pequeño disipador de 4*4 centímetros tardó el doble de tiempo al pasar de 30 segundos a 1 minuto... Supongo que con un disipador aun más grande en la cara fria se volvera mas lento, quedando detrás del 12706 y 12710 Mi punto es que lo más importante no es solo a que temperatura baja, sino en que tiempo lo hace, con carga de calor significativa que movilizar, esa seria una prueba mas real. Para sacarnos de dudas, mejora tu aire acondicionado usando refrigeracion liquida, haz la prueba con estas mismas celdas 12703, 12706 y 12710 y veamos los resultados.
I was just watching the older cooling videos yesterday and tried the same experiment you did here, but with just the 12706. It might not be the most efficient, but with a 6-heatpipe cooler, it's amazing what it can do. I ran it at about 10-11 volts and got down to -10 on my cold-side heatsink. I didn't apply as much thermal paste as you did, so I did have some thermal limiting at 11 volts.
Don't understand what this "test" should say? The 12706 has much more cooling power than the 12703.of course, it consumes double of energy. All the tests are without a load to cool. The heat pump 12706 can pull about 15-20W while cooling with a delta of 40-50 degrees The 12703 only 7-10W
Don't blame you but peltier elements rely on constant current. You waste around 30% energy heating them up with constant voltage here. Thats also the point of the three tiers - the max current rises with each "better" model. 3A -> 6A -> 10A It may be asked a lot but PLEASE rectify this and do the correct test.
Sorry, but this experiment is also bad. It is extremely misleading and it neglects many basic concepts. Just a little list: - It is not true that Peltiers have a recommended supply voltage of 12 V. Where did you read this nonsense? - You did not apply the same amount of thermal paste for all modules. - You failed to notice that something is wrong with the whole setup. The Peltier is not clamped down, therefore the heat transfer between the hot side and the CPU cooler is insufficient. This clearly shows up in your results. If you look up the datasheet for example for the 12706, at 12 V you should have somewhere between 4-5 A, but closer to 5 A. You barely reach 3.5 A. This is because the temperature difference between the hot side and the cold side is very large because in your case the hot side is very hot. Therefore, the Peltier throttles itself down and that's why you see such a low current. Same for 12710. - Furthermore, you should have noticed that even at 14 V, you were nowhere near the maximum rated current of the Peltier cooler. Again, your setup is faulty. - For the TDP, you failed to mention the heat pumped from the cold side to the hot side. That also appears on the hot side and it has to be dissipated by the CPU cooler. Even though this heat is not a large amount, it matters. Unfortunately, your results are bad and misleading a lot of people. I hope you won't get me wrong, but you should study thermoelectric coolers a bit more before trying to educate people about them.
You are nitpicking, for example when I power the 12706 module with 12V in the first second both Peltier surfaces have the same (room) temperature, it draws 3.65A. Why doesn't it draw 5A in the first second? it takes at least a few seconds to heat up. after 30 minutes the current consumption is a bit lower, but not too much and not in the first second. and also this problem should affect all the modules including the 12703 (not in exactly the same way, please don't nitpick, but to some extent). I'm guessing that this is because the modules are of low quality. the (lack of) thermal paste is not a problem, I also added paste on both radiators before mounting each module, even if it's not visible on camera. I know that the test isn't perfect (nothing is), but there is no point in continuing to explain, you've already made up your mind.
@@Sorin_DIY It is not nitpicking if I can identify several multiple mistakes throughout the video. The current could be limited by the contact resistance of your dodgy cabling as well. You just pushed a bare wire into the connector of the power supply. At these high currents, they should be clamped down correctly, and there should be a decent connection between those wires and the power supply. I tested many of these Peltiers, but they never acted like this. I could nearly reproduce the datasheet values in my tiny "lab" at home. If something is wrong with these devices then it is typically the fact that they are falsely labelled. I encountered coolers labeled as TEC12517 but they we actually TEC12706 when I measured their characteristics.
а что вы хотите от "перемаркировки"? Обе китайских 12706 и 12710 были раньше обычными 12704. ОБА! Просто на одном элементе "нарисовали" 12706, а на другом 12710. По обоим элементам можно создать претензию продавцу и вернуть деньги обратно. Нужно покупать у ПРОВЕРЕННЫХ продавцов!
I have bought many (tens) of Peltier elements from China via AliExpress. I tested them all and I'm telling you the performance varies a lot (!!); most of them are fake, they draw less current than in the datasheet, most frequently counterfeit is the 12710 type. I like your test, but I think the only real product is 12703, which really draws the current specified, the other 2 are drawing much less current and are less efficient.
Most peltier are scams & mislabeled, sadly. U can see the reviews. The highest current was around 7a at 12v. I dont remember which model. Guess I'll just buy the cheapest model; 03. Im going to undervolt it anyways. A study shows that its more efficient at 1/3 nominal current and its better to stack a lot.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I also suggest applying pressure to the peltier cooler, in my many experiments I have found that clamping the cooler to the heatsink increases thermal transfer greatly. Also the maximum temperature differential is very different to actual energy pumped, the higher power coolers will maintain a smaller temperature delta but will pump a lot more energy than the lower power ones.
And put hot side up and blow air against it.
I agree with this from my experience cryocooling CPUs, some clamping force is almost always needed. The clamping fixture must not transfer heat from one side to the other however.
We should also consider the quality and type of thermal paste used. I think that you should try using arctic mx-4 or other high quality pastes used to build PC's.
they issue I have is these are amp driven. you are not using the 06 and 10 to there full potential. if you need 0c degrees, the 03 would be good enough.
Impresssive, thank you for all your effor!. I will consider the results for my next projects. At the moment I build some "fermentation boxes" for sourdough for friends and family, so I use the hot side of the elements to heat up a box. I improved efficiency using the results of your fist video already.
omg thank you! saved me some time, I love these type of videos, keep it up!
We need more of your diy projects 😊😊
Heat pipes works in any direction, but they tend to work better much better "right" side up, that can have a huge effect on how much heat they can transport. Also, the heat that needs to be dissipated is the power consumption, plus the pumped heat, even if the pumped heat isn't that much, it adds to the total load.
But you've shown very well that adding more energy when heat dissipation is the main limiting factor won't result in lower temperature, and also that something designed for higher power doesn't have to be more efficient when there's a limiting factor stopping it for working in the range it's intended for.
3 amp modules are probably a good choice for most hobby projects, unless both the heat dissipation is good enough for higher power, and also higher power per module actually is needed, assuming a large temperature difference is needed, and not necessarily much heat flow at modest temperature difference.
Hi sir please help me, i am big fan your work, I learned a lot,i have two buck converters szbk07 and lb07, on both of them current adjustment option does not work even on load applied, i even changed the cc pot with 100k precision pot .how to fix this?please its really impotent to me
Are those bare wires you put into PSU ?
No banana jacks ?
What is contact resistance of those ?
No wonder none of the Peltiers have pulled nominal current.
Hi Mr. Sorin, I love this follow up video regarding Peltier Modules. Ijust have a few questions:
1. with the experiments, the 12703 is the most efficient of the the 3 tested?
2. will the PM 12703 run efficiently at 9 Volts? whether I use 1 or 2 pcs of the module?
3 wiil the 12703 PM work on an air cooler with the cold side dipped in the water reservoir (with a heat sink attached) while the hot side is facing up with a cooling fan attached?
4. the #3 question's purpose is to cool down the water in the air cooler.
5. is the #4 question not practical for experiment or for long term use?
Just asking rather than using an air conditioning unit....
Thanks for this video again...
1. 12703 is the most efficient.
2. you can use 2 modules, but they will need good cooling.
3. it will cool the water, but the hot side is in the same room, so it's not very efficient. it's ok for hobby projects, but you need to separate the hot side outside the room.
Great test!
Before your videos i had doubts about which peltier is most useful
Tnx❤
Thanks a lot. I appreciate the tables of measurements and your attention to other biases in the experiment. Could you test stacked Peltier modules? I plan to myself but it will be months because I am building something for a client right now. In military infrared cameras and some other applications they stack modules with different ratings and balance them so that the next stage up does not become overwhelmed. You'll need a lot of current to supply them however and some serious heat dissipation. A small scale test could involve putting a smaller module on one of the ones you have and using your existing cooler if you don't exceed 130W. I've always wondered what the practical gain would be in such an inexpensive arrangement. Take care brother.
I have 12706 peltier module, with 15v and 7 amps reach -27° C, with cooler master hyper h412r heatsink, your 12706 and 12710 module not drawing specs current, possible a fault unit
Is there any difference between the 30x30mm 12703 from its 40x40mm? Will they perform the same?
I prefer the 40x40 Peltier module, because it has a larger contact surface. But all these cheap Peltier modules should be tested before use.
sangat membantu, tapi dapatkah anda membuat percobaan untuk susun bertingkat ( cascading ) dan melihat perbandingan antara 12703 x2 dengan 12706x2...
Do you try TEC2-19006? Can you tell us something about that? Thank you, you are great!
Thanks for you videos! I purchased a broken Fallout 4 mini fridge and am about to start fixing and improving it. It's been fascinating learning about how these Peltier devices work.
My first question I must find is how much power delivered does the fridge already give??? Since it looks like the lower quality 12706, it's possible it already has the power needed for the 12703.
Looks like a good excuse to purchase a volt meter to me!
Hi. You should measure the voltage and current before modifying it. But I'm pretty sure it will work with a 12703 peltier module.
Does it work better with metal liquid as the thermal paste?
I don't think so.
I've just got into peltier experimentation for the first time. At the moment I've only got the 706 modules. It seems to be true that the hot side heatsink needs to be huge for this one. I found a CPU cooler on a scrap desktop so I'm using that for hot side with the fan set to run at full speed. Down to minus 8.7 C on cold side so far (been running 20 minutes). Powering it all from a small LiFeP04 battery. Voltage at this moment 12.73 current 3.75 amps including fan, which uses 300ma at full speed.
You should be watercooling the peltier on a waterblock with a radiator instead of treating it like a CPU.
Agree 100%, especially because my applications are all for outdoor solar powered electronics.....the ability of the 03 modules to operate efficiently down at 9vDC gives me a little more wiggle room for parasitic current draws like cooling things getting cooked in the sun. As a personal project, i might have to try a similar concept on a game camera or two since they are notoriously easy to kill with only moderate heat or sun exposure.
Many thanks for posting this comparison.
Nice video. I guess your "cold load" is far too small yet, so the lower power peltier gets too much of a advantage. A heatsink with cooler in the cold side, should improve the performance of higher power models and give a much better result. Just a guess through. Great work again.
you have peltier tec1- 12703 "SR" is the same peltier? like tec1-12703?
The very final test would be to run a test where the hot side is at the same temperature for all test, and that could be achieved by water cooling. The higher power peltiers are creating more internal heat which needs to dissipated, hence when you have a more powerful cooler pulling the hot side to a constant temperature the results will look different
I tec cooled my canon t3i dslr for astro imaging. I opened the camera and packed thermal transfer pads to get the sensor heat out the back of the camera. I did not want to cut up the camera, so there is plastic thermal resistance. By far my best results are using two 12706 (60W) stacked (gives more thermal delta, but less cooling throughput). And only running them both at 3.5v, it lowered the sensor from 95F to 55F, and it makes a big difference in dark noise.
Hello Sorin, content suggestion: you could bring a complex project with a power bank with a built-in Android smartphone in conjunction with smart relays to control them remotely (turn on, turn off lamps, sockets, maintain with UPS and or turn on, turn off modems and routers and computers remotely in case of malfunction)
please do a video on 5volts Peltier modules
Hi, I watched this video and bought 2 of the 12703 . I have them hooked up to a 12.5 Amp 180 watt power supply found on Amazon. The hot side gets 140 degrees but cold side only gets to 64 degrees. What's my deal?
Did you add a large cooler on the hot side of the module?
@Sorin_DIY Thanks for replying. I've got a 120mm by 70 mm heat sink that the 2 modules are thermal glued to and 2 40 mm heat sinks thermal glued to modules.
I wonder which ones would be best for stacking the TECs to increase thermal delta. I think I remember reading that the power needs to be increased 10-fold per stage to be effective. Somehow I don't think that's right and I would like to know how it actually works in practice.
EDIT: I would also be interested to know how long each of these modules would take to chill a cup of water. I think the higher power ones have greater thermal transfer but a lower delta.
what temp will you get wenn you put it on 5V
Another very useful test would be to put an exact quantity of ambient temperature water on the cold side, then run the same tests at different voltages/amperages and see which peltier moves heat better at different td's and amperages.
I have 8 of the 12706 ones that I bought at a pallet bin store. Think there was 5 in each pack for about $5 per pack. I gave a few to a friend. I have no idea what I'm going to use these for.
*Will this cool down a small room? If so, for how long?*
It's very inefficient for a small room. I made a separate video with an air conditioner with Peltier modules.
Would you also consider testing the SP1848 27145? I can't see if it's supposed to be a generator or a cooler, but I'd like to see how well it performs in cooling against the TEC127XX units you have. Even if you don't test generation, just pumping, that would still be interesting to see.
The efficiency is much greater at lower voltages and lower temperature delta. What about stacking a bunch on top of each other, running at a low voltage?
I haven't tried it so far. maybe I will try it in a future video.
Hey Sorin. Where do I find dead transformers the best? I'm trying to salvage copper wire
I got some from a local flea market, maybe you have a similar one in your area.
I wonder can we hook these TEC up in computer cooling, they seems like can help out pulling heat form CPU and GPUs and dump into heatsinks much quicker than old thermopastes only.
People were doing this 20+ years ago, but it uses a ton of electricity which mostly becomes heat you need to get rid of. There was a risk of condensation on the motherboard and short circuits. It was likely more hassle/cost than it is worth compared to watercooling and modern heatpipe heatsinks.
Would the 12703 be a good choice to use for a simple laser power meter if the lasers being tested are less than 1Watt (1000mW)?
Yes and you can probably power it with a lower voltage.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank you for your reply. Actually, the laser is pointed at the Peltier and a volt meter is used to measure how many mV are produced. That number is used to calculated roughly how powerful the laser pointer is. I will purchase a 12703 and experiment a little. Thank you for posting the link to the Peltier modules!
It needs 15A at 12v so a good cooler is needet. For me an old big 6 heatpipe cpu cooler wasnt enough, so i used an cheap used, but big aio watercooler. This works extremly well. Also good thermal paste and High pressure on the Modul is needet for good thermal Transfer. Otherweise it is possible to break the Modul...
I also found out some Modules are Fake, at 12v the 127815 schould draw about 15A , maybe a bit less, but at least 10A. But fake ones draw about 1-3A, not 10-15.
The 12706 schould draw about 4-6A , good quality Modules also do this but cheap (fake) ones draw 1-3A .
Oh just watched test 1 and now this one ... same request again ... Can you test the Peltier modules as generators? Apply hot and cold to each side, and see what kind of output the module produces. For example what happens if you put 20C on cold side and 30C on hot side? What kind of voltage and current is produced? Question would be this... can I use the inside of my house temp (say 20C) and the outside air temp (say 30C) to produce electricity to run my air conditioner? Or vice versa... inside of house temp is 20C but outside is minus 10C, so can I produce heat to warm up my house?
I will probably test them in a future video, but these Peltier modules are very inefficient. they will not produce enough energy to heat up the house. probably just to charge a phone.
How can we know which peltier modules are counterfeit or bad quality? ...
Usually cheap ones are of low quality. but in the end you still need to test them, to be sure.
30*30mm or 40*40mm which one is the dimensions of the 12703 peltier used in this video?? And what's the main difference between 40mm and 30mm, 12703 peltier apart from the size?
12703 module is 40*40mm. the advantage of a larger module is that it has a larger contact surface to transfer the temperature.
@Sorin_DIY Thank u so much for the information.
From your previous videos I made a similar mini fridge of 5 litre capacity with water cooling, and it went to -5 degree Celsius with beverages full in it.
Loved all of your videos a lot.
Excellent video and great tests! Thanks! 👍
Thanks for the video!
Tu video me ha inquietado con estas celulas, gracias por eso! Ahora bien, revisando los datasheet de los peltier encontre que la capacidad maxima de las celulas no es logrando la mayor diferencia de temperatura, por lo que estos resultados que muestras no dicen mucho en esa direccion. Si quieres saber que potencia entregan debe ser en un escenario tipo aire acondicionado donde la cara fria de las celulas se somenten a enormes cargas de calor, ahi es donde veras la potencia real de las 12706, 12710, etc.
Te recomiendo rehacer la prueba con tu aire acondicionado y en la parte caliente utilizar refrigeracion liquida, pues el Qmax se logra con una diferencia de temperatura baja(
I have a doubt, the dimension of Tec1-12703 is 30mmx30mm, and Tec1-12704 is 40mmx40mm, but in video they all look same size how it is possible ??? please clarify....🤔🤔🤔
the 12704 module is 30*30mm, but I haven't use one in this video. the rest are 40*40mm.
I actually love watching your videos. I hope this explanation doesn't offend you.
This works as a refrigerator in a closed container. If you are trying to distribute the cold to another area with air (air conditioning) there will never be ice on the cold side heatsink because the ambient temp will overcome 90% of the cooling and, in general, defeat any chance that the cold side will get more than 10°C below ambient. The stronger the fan, the less temperature drops. This is why the higher powered devices are used. Not to see how cold the cold side CAN get. They may not be as cold but they will "recharge" (actually remove heat) from the cold side faster. Your readings would be taken at the hot side to see how much heat you need to remove from that side. The chip cold side reading will be about about 20 - 50°C lower than ambient and up to 70°C lower than the hot side. The reading of the air you blow across the cold side heatsink will be much, much higher than the chip cold side to the point of only a 2 or 3°C drop from room temperature (ambient). This is evident even when measuring air temp just 3 or 4cm from the cold side heatsink. The more powerful devices are used to overcome the powerful ability that normal air has to remove all the work (energy) done chilling (removing heat) from the peltier and spreading it all over the place. That's why a low powered device will hold temperature in an extremely well insulated, closed box but wont work as well if you try to distribute the "cold" into the same area you're working in. A high powered unit, maybe even a 24v model will work much better in those conditions. If you want, I can send you some real peltiers for you to run more tests on from CUI here in the USA
ok that's nice to know so theoretically if I wanted to make air conditioner I would need high power module like TEC1-12715?
@@H-W Not theoretically, it is a waste of money to use Peltier coolers as an air conditioner. They have very little cooling power and bad efficiency, so you would need a lot of these devices to provide the same effect as a regular AC, and they would consume significantly more electricity. It is not worth it.
@@CuriousScientist ok thanks, but is there a way to make them more efficient?
@@H-W No, they are intrinsically inefficient. If you want more efficient refrigeration, use a compressor-based system.
@@CuriousScientist it's difficult and more expensive to make compressor based system
Y puedes poner celulas de peltier unas encima de otras y sumas el salto termico, ademas puedes aislar termicamente la zona caliente de la fria y eso aumenta el salto termico, pues puedes usar aislante del que se usa en climatizacion, o algo parecido.
Pero tienes que tomar mas precauciones con la alimentacion de las celulas de peltier usando alimentacion de corriente constante.
I also Suggest a 12v 15Amps smps and test again 1210 peltier module
I guarenteed More better performance...But also you are right because in 3amps power supply Better performance in 1203peltier module because maximum power rating 3apms
and a 1210 peltier module Current Limit 10amps
Isnt it hard to find actual legit ones?
Look like a solar-powered, Peltier plate chilled , 48 qt. Portable refrigerator will require a LOT more planning than I originally thought! Especially since this "large beer cooler" is for medical supplies/medicines chilled for several weeks on battery/solar power only. Done well, this well-insulated box, built as tough as possible, will maintain contents at or near 41 degrees F. without mains power. Wish us luck...disaster recovery is waiting for this one.
You are more than welcome to steal designs from my setup as long as you dont make money off em
Please test 12702 amd 12701 and compare with 12703 module
As usual a very good quality presentation which helped a lot. I was expecting the more powerful module to win the race but...lo and behold...the underdog.
How about testing solar panels efficiency?
Or how about greenhouse/hothouse efficiency? (plastic film versus glass or polycarbonate etc)
Thank you sir! Your video is very helpful but can you make a graph about temp-time(from 0m-60m) in next video
Very useful details, great work pal.
Why the 03 Peltier performes not as good as in the first test with 12V?
Because in the second test it has a bigger radiator on the cold side, it has to work more to cool it down.
An instructive video as always.
I hope to see a try with LED light + Peltier module.
Led chip light produces a lot of heat, and work better when properly cooled.
What about an average powerful led chip, lets say 50W, cooled by a Peltier, that is cooled by an heatsink?
An interesting ideo of project.
Is there anyone who knows the song that starts at 1:23 minute in the video ???
Thanks guys
Koto San - Ofshane
as always, I appreciate the due diligence & listening to the community... the results look quite definitive! 👍
🤓👉I'd love to see you turn the best module into a portable/mini "air conditioner" for the summer heat!
🤔perhaps make it reversible so it can also work as a heater to soothe the winter chill!
👋cheers & looking forward to your next project!
Can't be done with current technology. These can keep a small enclosed and insulated container a low temperature but blow some air across that cold plate (cold heatsink) and the -10C goes up 35° instantly or somewhere barely under room temperature. The higher powered devices will draw more and less power as needed (power is in watts but if you hold a constant voltage the amps will increase or decrease which increases or decreases total watts) based on the amount of additional cooling needed. That means more power/energy/heat to remove from the hot side to get that delta in temps
Your video is great and very helpful brother, Can you please also tell me What is that song in background music in the starting of this video ?
I can give you 10 more subscribers, plzz give me the background music name at 1:23 minute in this video
Koto San - Ofshane
if gonna use a s a generator then 12706 i the best considering your results. So it all depends for what you gonna se the device for
Because of joule heating/i2r putting maximum rated current to peltier will result in lower COP.
Refer to my youtube post on custom modules ive built.
I use thermal glues instead of pastes since pastes dont have adhesive quality that glues have. Application method is same; just rub it on peltier as evenly as possible then glue it to back of waterblock.
Tldr, treat them like a compressor system. Watercool both hot and cool side for best mileage. Dont exceed 33% of max rated current if dT is low, 50% if its high
You should not be using a CPU heatsink. CPU heatsinks are not going to keep hotside near ambient since they dont have liquid actively moving heat away
Thank you 😊 now I know how to make it!!
Excelente trabajo, quedo demostrado tu punto
What is the minimum voltage the peltier module will start to cool?
At about 5V it's starting to be useful.
very thanks
MORE POWERFUL CHIP DOES NOT GUARANTEE LOWER TEMPERATURE. 10 Amp or even 15 Amp Chips can simply move more heat faster. Let's say you put the cold side of the peltier against very hot surface a 10 Amp Chip will cool it down more than 3 Amp Chip would.
TANSTAAFL, yes?
Next try 12715 module with 15 volts😊
thank you so much my friend, great job well done
im in order build mini water cooler peltier fan PLUS mini refigerator (dunno what im thinking but i like chill ambience on my desk and take one shot soft drink)😂 ,
in my case i just found -9 degrees celcius with 3x3cm peltier reaching so fast and only using usb c PD charging decoy port. its about 25 watt in smartphone adapter with volt amp meter (6v-7v) fast cooling and stable.
and in another case, just found chinese cooling fan for smartphone 2,3cm peltier can reach -3 degrees celcius, 2,5cm peltier can reach -5 degrees C. stable. (edited : 2,3cm = -5 degrees, 2,5cm = -3 degrees)
*i use proper thermo gun not that fake lcd indicators
thats insane the voltage, fan and heatsink not heavy stuff only 5v - 1-2Amp
you can try more affordable peltier for sure and save energy more for the earth lol😁 nice to meet you. enjoy
It seems like theres a lot of fake peltier modules out there that dont draw the rated current, i bought a 12712 peltier that only draws 4 amps @12v instead of the rated 12 amps. So its probably best to buy from some trusted supplier to make sure they are good quality modules.
Thanks, very useful and technicaly corect.
Can we make air condtion by using petlerr ?
I made a separate video about air conditioner with peltier modules, you can find it on my channel.
@@Sorin_DIY i will search 😄😄😄 thanks
Can you create phone cooler with that
Probably yes.
@@Sorin_DIY create video please i have phone cooler its cold but no ice
Cum putem genera electricitate din module peltier ? Am o soba care pe spate ajunge la peste 150 ° .....
e simplu: se lipeste elementul Peltier pe soba, iar pe partea cealalta ii trebuie un radiator prin care sa treaca aer mai rece; diferenta de temperatura intre cele doua suprafete va genera o diferenta de potential ; atentie insa sa nu depasesti limita maxima de temp. admisa in fisa tehnica
@@virgilius1979 nu neg ca asa se face si multumesc pentru raspuns. Dar doream ceva cam la 100w+ , ceva care sa gerereze curent prin usb pentru diverse dispozitive. Experienta celor care au facut asta mi ar fi de ajutor
Salut, trebuie sa fie diferenta mare de temperatura intre suprafete. daca soba e calda automat si aerul din camera va fi cald. ar trebui sa ai 60 grade C pe o parte si sub 0 grade pe cealalta parte. chiar si asa un singur modul produce o putere foarte mica, probabil mai putin de 1W.
Hello my peltier is not getting too much cold even I bought 12715
It needs 15A at 12v so a good cooler is needet. For me an old big 6 heatpipe cpu cooler wasnt enough, so i used an cheap used, but big aio watercooler. This works extremly well. Also good thermal paste and High pressure on the Modul is needet for good thermal Transfer. Otherweise it is possible to break the Modul...
I also found out some Modules are Fake, at 12v the 127815 schould draw about 15A , maybe a bit less, but at least 10A. But fake ones draw about 1-3A, not 10-15.
The 12706 schould draw about 4-6A , good quality Modules also do this but cheap (fake) ones draw 1-3A .
Higher amper TEC is better but needs much better cooling on the hot side.
Test with water-cooling AIO next time
Can i run the peltier with a charger😢
It depends on what kind of charger. if it delivers the necessary voltage and current, it will work.
What should I do?
Where can I buy tec1 12703 SR?
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9xMJvx
@@Sorin_DIY there's only normal 12703
And i need 12703 SR
Thanks Pal! You will need to make at least 20+ videos to satisfy the defenders of TEC-12706! Just say that TEC-12706 is the better module! 🤟🏻😂
Thank you, very useful test.
how is the peltier rated for 10amps but only uses 3 are you doing that or are all these peltiers are crap witch one
These are low quality modules. performance modules are very expensive.
The CPU cooler 150W rating will be based on a temperature difference much greater than you have there. If the temperature difference wasnt vital to performance you could just run it without the peltier plate and it would cool the top!! They are used to get a chip down from 90C to 40C in air of 20C. So a minimum of 20C difference and you can bet the manufacturer quotes the spec for 70C difference! Your air is 23C and the hottest the hot side got in the final test was 29C. Only 6C different. My hunch is you are simply not removing all the heat produced by the more powerful peltier plates and so not seeing the pumping effect.
please reply
" WHY ARE ALL THE MODELS CONSUMING SAME AMOUNT OF CURRENT(AMPERE)"
The modules don't use exactly the same amount of current, there is a small difference between them. the higher the supply voltage, the higher the current consumption will be for all modules, so you need to limit the current according to the specs of each model. they can be powered with up to 15V and some of them even 16V. and also these modules are cheap and of low quality; high quality modules are very expensive and more accurate with the current consumption.
Good observation! The higher power modules "throttle down" because they don't have sufficient cooling on their hot side. He did not clamp down the modules, so they don't have sufficient contact with the CPU cooler. They borderline overheat and therefore they limit their own current. It is "just" a very bad experiment.
Acabo de notar que aun teniendo mejor disipador en la cara caliente el 12703 no logró bajar a cero en 30 segundos y es que por su baja potencia es muy sensible a la carga de trabajo. Con solo ese pequeño disipador de 4*4 centímetros tardó el doble de tiempo al pasar de 30 segundos a 1 minuto... Supongo que con un disipador aun más grande en la cara fria se volvera mas lento, quedando detrás del 12706 y 12710
Mi punto es que lo más importante no es solo a que temperatura baja, sino en que tiempo lo hace, con carga de calor significativa que movilizar, esa seria una prueba mas real.
Para sacarnos de dudas, mejora tu aire acondicionado usando refrigeracion liquida, haz la prueba con estas mismas celdas 12703, 12706 y 12710 y veamos los resultados.
You have the heat pipe cooler upside down! Very inefficient.
😂real Sorin appears at the end of the video
Hi sir please make a video testing tec1 - 12703 module on 5 volt please please please 😢😢
They will not perform good because they are made for 12v . But there are 5v 3A Modules .
the man smears thermal paste with a finger :D
Keep it up bro 🫴🏼✨🤍🇵🇰
I was just watching the older cooling videos yesterday and tried the same experiment you did here, but with just the 12706. It might not be the most efficient, but with a 6-heatpipe cooler, it's amazing what it can do. I ran it at about 10-11 volts and got down to -10 on my cold-side heatsink. I didn't apply as much thermal paste as you did, so I did have some thermal limiting at 11 volts.
Don't understand what this "test" should say? The 12706 has much more cooling power than the 12703.of course, it consumes double of energy. All the tests are without a load to cool.
The heat pump 12706 can pull about 15-20W while cooling with a delta of 40-50 degrees
The 12703 only 7-10W
Super ❤
Bro ghosted me when I asked him whether he is making an amplifier powerful than the the previous ones
I will make more powerful amplifiers and portable speakers in the future, but I'm working on something else right now.
If you tested 1203 peltier module in 3apms and 1210 Peltier module in 10amps that time performance Incearses
Don't blame you but peltier elements rely on constant current.
You waste around 30% energy heating them up with constant voltage here.
Thats also the point of the three tiers - the max current rises with each "better" model. 3A -> 6A -> 10A
It may be asked a lot but PLEASE rectify this and do the correct test.
Hello!
Suggestions: use a water cooling block and a big gallon of water
Add more paste and more pressure
Add more power ig
Loose wiring connections are not good for testing. Unsecured components are not good for testing. Your 12706 may have been weak.
Sorry, but this experiment is also bad. It is extremely misleading and it neglects many basic concepts.
Just a little list:
- It is not true that Peltiers have a recommended supply voltage of 12 V. Where did you read this nonsense?
- You did not apply the same amount of thermal paste for all modules.
- You failed to notice that something is wrong with the whole setup. The Peltier is not clamped down, therefore the heat transfer between the hot side and the CPU cooler is insufficient. This clearly shows up in your results. If you look up the datasheet for example for the 12706, at 12 V you should have somewhere between 4-5 A, but closer to 5 A. You barely reach 3.5 A. This is because the temperature difference between the hot side and the cold side is very large because in your case the hot side is very hot. Therefore, the Peltier throttles itself down and that's why you see such a low current. Same for 12710.
- Furthermore, you should have noticed that even at 14 V, you were nowhere near the maximum rated current of the Peltier cooler. Again, your setup is faulty.
- For the TDP, you failed to mention the heat pumped from the cold side to the hot side. That also appears on the hot side and it has to be dissipated by the CPU cooler. Even though this heat is not a large amount, it matters.
Unfortunately, your results are bad and misleading a lot of people. I hope you won't get me wrong, but you should study thermoelectric coolers a bit more before trying to educate people about them.
You are nitpicking, for example when I power the 12706 module with 12V in the first second both Peltier surfaces have the same (room) temperature, it draws 3.65A. Why doesn't it draw 5A in the first second? it takes at least a few seconds to heat up. after 30 minutes the current consumption is a bit lower, but not too much and not in the first second. and also this problem should affect all the modules including the 12703 (not in exactly the same way, please don't nitpick, but to some extent). I'm guessing that this is because the modules are of low quality.
the (lack of) thermal paste is not a problem, I also added paste on both radiators before mounting each module, even if it's not visible on camera.
I know that the test isn't perfect (nothing is), but there is no point in continuing to explain, you've already made up your mind.
@@Sorin_DIY It is not nitpicking if I can identify several multiple mistakes throughout the video. The current could be limited by the contact resistance of your dodgy cabling as well. You just pushed a bare wire into the connector of the power supply. At these high currents, they should be clamped down correctly, and there should be a decent connection between those wires and the power supply. I tested many of these Peltiers, but they never acted like this. I could nearly reproduce the datasheet values in my tiny "lab" at home. If something is wrong with these devices then it is typically the fact that they are falsely labelled. I encountered coolers labeled as TEC12517 but they we actually TEC12706 when I measured their characteristics.
а что вы хотите от "перемаркировки"? Обе китайских 12706 и 12710 были раньше обычными 12704. ОБА! Просто на одном элементе "нарисовали" 12706, а на другом 12710. По обоим элементам можно создать претензию продавцу и вернуть деньги обратно.
Нужно покупать у ПРОВЕРЕННЫХ продавцов!
ভাই এটাকে কোম্পানিকে বলেন গরম সাইট বাদে শুধু ঠান্ডা ভাবে বানাইলে এটা চলবে
Yuhuuuu
I have bought many (tens) of Peltier elements from China via AliExpress. I tested them all and I'm telling you the performance varies a lot (!!); most of them are fake, they draw less current than in the datasheet, most frequently counterfeit is the 12710 type. I like your test, but I think the only real product is 12703, which really draws the current specified, the other 2 are drawing much less current and are less efficient.
Si ai facut o treaba buna, ca ai postat aici, felicitari ! (eu sunt Bogdan, am si eu un mic canal, dar nu am mai postat demult)
Salut si multumesc. Da, modulele acestea sunt de calitate slaba si dintre toate pe care le-am probat se pare ca 12703 e cel mai bun.
Most peltier are scams & mislabeled, sadly. U can see the reviews. The highest current was around 7a at 12v. I dont remember which model. Guess I'll just buy the cheapest model; 03. Im going to undervolt it anyways. A study shows that its more efficient at 1/3 nominal current and its better to stack a lot.