Vintage cars can have a myriad of problems because of the on-going high levels of maintenance they inevitably need. - there’s rather more to go wrong with old cars, but yeah old stuff breaks far more easily and parts can be hard to source of course. One thing I know for sure is vintage watches don’t take kindly to being thrown into the back of a UPS or DHL van…literally - I’ve seen them do it…and I’d never put a vintage watch on a winder…
Yes! I actually buy them because my local watchmaker is superb and very reasonably priced. I'd rather hand him cash and chat about the movement than give money to some random used watch seller.
I didn't even know what an automatic movement was in my early 20's until my grandfather passed away and I inherited his rose gold Omega bumper automatic. This was my introduction not just to mechanical watches, but also vintage Omegas. It was a little smaller at 32mm across and I rarely wear it because I bump into door frames from time to time and would be scared $#!+less to ever damage my grandfather's old watch. I now have a two level 36 slot Pelican and the first level has about 15+ vintage Omegas. I have travelled the learning curve in the last 20+ years and @zenitram2895 hits the nail on the head: When you buy vintage, always budget for the work the watch will most likely need. HOWEVER, in my experience, any of the mechanical DeVille's or other full rotor watches from Omega that I have owned from the 60's and 70's have always been problematic. The older bumper movements have always seemed to me to be more simple and sturdy thus presenting fewer problems (and the ones from the 50's and 60's are bigger than the older ones like my grandfather had from the 40's, so more "wearable" by today's standards). Any problems with bumpers that I've had have usually just been a missing cushion spring or something simple. For my two cents, stick to the bumper era watches - they're older, yes, but they all out-ticked their original owners and that's the mark of a good watch. Like Patek says, you don't own a Patek, you just take care of for the next generation... Any good watch will out-tick its owner.
Not arguing here, but a watch winder on a vintage watch is like a new transmission on a vintage car. It'll end up breaking other parts if you don't get a new engine to go along with it.
Out of about 10 watches I wear, 2 were never serviced (a Casio W-59-1V (seldom worn) and G-Shock GW-7900 (mud resistant solar, practically a ball of plastic and rubber with metal armor bits just in case)). Stuff happens, in the end, the best watches are the ones you *want to* keep running. Several were broken from the start, but fixed, and work.
I have two vintage seamasters from the 1960s, one hand wound and one automatic from 1969. The latter has a 565 movement - which is awesome. Both were served fully before I bought them. They work great.
Thanks for a quick reality check on the vintage watches we love. I've always been on the fence about winders, would like to hear more about them. Lots of opinions on winders, few with the science to back them up.
Yeah I hate that movement. I bought a 14k one and needed a new crystal and clutch gear (one piece case.. so a front loader). I do my own work so I figured it would be an easy fix. I put the clutch in and then it was a nightmare getting the bezel to fit over the crystal. I needed to put it in my press to install the bezel. Of course, once I had that in, I set the day and date... only to find that the spring for the day of the week must have also been broken so it doesn't advance with the time! Well, it's gonna stay like that. There's no way I trying to remove that bezel after how much trouble it was to put it on (keep in mind, it's 14k so very easy to bend out of shape). When I wear it, I just need to manually move the day ahead each morning.
I just bought a 1977 Omega Geneve 166.0173 with the 1012 movement and I put it straight onto the timegrapher and it's running perfectly and as a bonus it only has a date complication so no day setting to go wrong. I love the fact it hacks the seconds and beats at 28800bph.
I'd go for older Omegas from the 50s and 60s, these movements are better and stronger than the 1000-movements. Back in the 60s labour was still cheap and things were made for lasting. During the 70s (quartz crizis) the watch brands had to save money and produce cheaper movements. I think there's even plastic parts in the 1020 movement.
I am a watchmaker and have a collection of about 20~24 watches...and yes, in my OWN collection, sometimes a watch goes astray. The only difference between me and regular folk is that I can sort it myself. I love the OMEGA Seamaster1022, it easily will get up to COSC parameters with calibration. Here's a suggestion for day/date complications. Unless you must have the day and date set (pilot, astronaut, wilderness trekker, etc.) just LET IT GO. Eventually I just look to see what watch is already close to the actual day and date and wear that one.
I have a few 1960s no date Omegas. Good pieces but, yes, do get a full service every decade or when it breaks. I normally plan one service a year in my longterm service priority plan. No service planned for pieces under 3K.
Insanity. I got a caliber 752 Seamaster just recently and this exact same thing happened to me. Luckily someone gave it to me for a steeldive Willard ( told guy it wasn't a fair trade ). Would love to know what this cost to fix. Been told between $400 - $1000. Other than the date change over it keeps great time and day changes.
i think my father had one like this one , a omega from 70is in gold , in think my ant has it some ware after my mother has pass , how much is that worth more or less
The date complication on this calibre has to be miraculously clean otherwise it will stick,the date jumper has had 3 revisions the latest being metal not plastic ,the cannon pinion can seize and make the motion works too tight also it will damage the quick set date lever, other than that a very good movement.
Lovely watch. Although I never had much trouble with the 1000-series movements, 9 out if 10 times I prefer a 500- or 700 hundred series over these. You know it didn’t originally come on this bracelet, right?
I want to ask you a question: is it better to have a vintage watch in excellent condition without an original strap and official documents, or is it better to have a medium condition watch with an original strap and fully original documents?
Hi - I have the same watch from my late Dad and am looking for an original strap to replace the 3rd party strap he added many years ago that looks really bad now. Any thoughts where I can look? Thanks
I almost pulled the trigger on a Deville but when I found out how small it was 32mm I got disinterested. Then I get this feeling like I might get a Frankenstein watch or something else I read in all the bad reviews. I guess I will wait longer while I look more.
I inherited an omega . It’s in better condition than the ones Ive seen on eBay. 14k small mens watch ,square case with round face. . I have no idea how to go about getting it appraised or selling it. It looks like it was rarely worn. I saw it ,in a old picture,on the wrist of my grandfather who I never met. He passed away long before I was born. Possibly 1940’s (or earlier. )Suggestions?Thanks in advance.
well timing is everything - and the time was up for the omega to breakdown. I have a LeCoultre from the 70's - also a date./date - Swiss made for the American market. Don't wear it much - but do keep it wound
I hope it does because I've loaded up on vintage Japan release only watches. And they are small. Would love for them to go up in value. I daily a Omega Mark 40. Had to spend $500 on extra links just to get it on my wrist
Have owned many 1020 & 1022 movement Omegas. I stopped purchasing them and sold them off because vintage Omegas are just to fragile. Never had a problem with them but you must treat them as if they have 0 water resistance and the acrylic crystals are not very robust, parts are old and amplitude is always a challenge. You need to be very careful of originality, there are so many franken vintage Omegas that are redialed, replated etc. Its fine to purchase them but you need full transparency.
Warn people about automatic UA-cam bidding. in the last few seconds of my bidding as a high bid leader, SUDDENLY COMED "YOU LOST," and the watch of my dreams slid back into the great morass of many used watches, never to be seen again!!!
Jory, I think the title is a bit misleading, I have vintage Omega's with 321/861/1861 and 1045 movements, they're all great and robust movements, so it's as you've said many years ago, do your homework/research etc?
lol yeah sometimes but I recently made a video mentioning theres some hidden treasures on eBay where you just have to do homework to not get screwed. I got a beautiful Omega Constellation pie pan on eBay, the seller picked it up at an estate sale. It was just sitting in a drawer.
I just got the steel seamaster 1020 last week when this channel talked about it from eBay. It is a new old stock with 2 brand new bracelets. Talk about getting lucky. I couldn’t tell the excellent condition in the pics but when I opened up the package wow!
I've bought a few watches on ebay and never had any issues. That are now years old. You can even buy a brand new watch with issues. Nothing is issue free
Watch winders save your watch from engaging the crown/winding system. This idea that they do harm is WIS to the max. Does it really matter if you have to service a watch in 5 or 10 years? Who cares?
It's sort of the same as buying a vintage car. It can fail the day after you buy it and it's no fault of the seller.
Vintage cars can have a myriad of problems because of the on-going high levels of maintenance they inevitably need. - there’s rather more to go wrong with old cars, but yeah old stuff breaks far more easily and parts can be hard to source of course.
One thing I know for sure is vintage watches don’t take kindly to being thrown into the back of a UPS or DHL van…literally - I’ve seen them do it…and I’d never put a vintage watch on a winder…
Get a post guarantee... As soon as you get past the post on the gate, it's your issue pal...!
Any time I buy a vintage watch, I always budget the extra money for work on it by a watchmaker. Just in case.
Yes! I actually buy them because my local watchmaker is superb and very reasonably priced. I'd rather hand him cash and chat about the movement than give money to some random used watch seller.
every vintage watch i've bought requires a service. I figure it into the total cost.
@user-wv1pj6wh4hoh….
I didn't even know what an automatic movement was in my early 20's until my grandfather passed away and I inherited his rose gold Omega bumper automatic. This was my introduction not just to mechanical watches, but also vintage Omegas. It was a little smaller at 32mm across and I rarely wear it because I bump into door frames from time to time and would be scared $#!+less to ever damage my grandfather's old watch.
I now have a two level 36 slot Pelican and the first level has about 15+ vintage Omegas. I have travelled the learning curve in the last 20+ years and @zenitram2895 hits the nail on the head: When you buy vintage, always budget for the work the watch will most likely need. HOWEVER, in my experience, any of the mechanical DeVille's or other full rotor watches from Omega that I have owned from the 60's and 70's have always been problematic. The older bumper movements have always seemed to me to be more simple and sturdy thus presenting fewer problems (and the ones from the 50's and 60's are bigger than the older ones like my grandfather had from the 40's, so more "wearable" by today's standards). Any problems with bumpers that I've had have usually just been a missing cushion spring or something simple. For my two cents, stick to the bumper era watches - they're older, yes, but they all out-ticked their original owners and that's the mark of a good watch. Like Patek says, you don't own a Patek, you just take care of for the next generation... Any good watch will out-tick its owner.
Not arguing here, but a watch winder on a vintage watch is like a new transmission on a vintage car. It'll end up breaking other parts if you don't get a new engine to go along with it.
I'm currently looking for a 70s TV Omega and it's nuts trying to find one that's in decent shape from a non sketchy source.
I got a nice rotary one if u still need
Out of about 10 watches I wear, 2 were never serviced (a Casio W-59-1V (seldom worn) and G-Shock GW-7900 (mud resistant solar, practically a ball of plastic and rubber with metal armor bits just in case)). Stuff happens, in the end, the best watches are the ones you *want to* keep running.
Several were broken from the start, but fixed, and work.
I absolutely 💯 love vintage Omega. Way more than modern Omega. Would love a vintage Omega Mark 3 or a Flight Master
A watch winder, much like a trickle charger for the vintage Porsche that is rarely driven. A wise investment for a great Omega.
Thanks for sharing.
What‘s the better deal? Pay for watch winder power supply for decades or get the movement fixed once?
I have two vintage seamasters from the 1960s, one hand wound and one automatic from 1969. The latter has a 565 movement - which is awesome.
Both were served fully before I bought them. They work great.
Thanks for a quick reality check on the vintage watches we love. I've always been on the fence about winders, would like to hear more about them. Lots of opinions on winders, few with the science to back them up.
Yeah I hate that movement. I bought a 14k one and needed a new crystal and clutch gear (one piece case.. so a front loader). I do my own work so I figured it would be an easy fix. I put the clutch in and then it was a nightmare getting the bezel to fit over the crystal. I needed to put it in my press to install the bezel. Of course, once I had that in, I set the day and date... only to find that the spring for the day of the week must have also been broken so it doesn't advance with the time! Well, it's gonna stay like that. There's no way I trying to remove that bezel after how much trouble it was to put it on (keep in mind, it's 14k so very easy to bend out of shape). When I wear it, I just need to manually move the day ahead each morning.
I just bought a 1977 Omega Geneve 166.0173 with the 1012 movement and I put it straight onto the timegrapher and it's running perfectly and as a bonus it only has a date complication so no day setting to go wrong. I love the fact it hacks the seconds and beats at 28800bph.
I'd go for older Omegas from the 50s and 60s, these movements are better and stronger than the 1000-movements. Back in the 60s labour was still cheap and things were made for lasting. During the 70s (quartz crizis) the watch brands had to save money and produce cheaper movements. I think there's even plastic parts in the 1020 movement.
I am a watchmaker and have a collection of about 20~24 watches...and yes, in my OWN collection, sometimes a watch goes astray. The only difference between me and regular folk is that I can sort it myself. I love the OMEGA Seamaster1022, it easily will get up to COSC parameters with calibration. Here's a suggestion for day/date complications. Unless you must have the day and date set (pilot, astronaut, wilderness trekker, etc.) just LET IT GO. Eventually I just look to see what watch is already close to the actual day and date and wear that one.
I have a few 1960s no date Omegas. Good pieces but, yes, do get a full service every decade or when it breaks. I normally plan one service a year in my longterm service priority plan. No service planned for pieces under 3K.
Insanity. I got a caliber 752 Seamaster just recently and this exact same thing happened to me. Luckily someone gave it to me for a steeldive Willard ( told guy it wasn't a fair trade ). Would love to know what this cost to fix. Been told between $400 - $1000. Other than the date change over it keeps great time and day changes.
The cal 1000 series was omega's fall from grace. 500 series are the only way to go when buying a vintage omega.
i think my father had one like this one , a omega from 70is in gold , in think my ant has it some ware after my mother has pass , how much is that worth more or less
The date complication on this calibre has to be miraculously clean otherwise it will stick,the date jumper has had 3 revisions the latest being metal not plastic ,the cannon pinion can seize and make the motion works too tight also it will damage the quick set date lever, other than that a very good movement.
Lovely watch. Although I never had much trouble with the 1000-series movements, 9 out if 10 times I prefer a 500- or 700 hundred series over these.
You know it didn’t originally come on this bracelet, right?
I want to ask you a question: is it better to have a vintage watch in excellent condition without an original strap and official documents, or is it better to have a medium condition watch with an original strap and fully original documents?
I’m looking at this as well. Is there any modern movement that would fit in it? I wouldn’t mind to Frankenstein it just to keep the look
Thanks, I almost make the same mistake.
I had the same problem with mine after servicing same problem was back
Hi - I have the same watch from my late Dad and am looking for an original strap to replace the 3rd party strap he added many years ago that looks really bad now. Any thoughts where I can look? Thanks
I almost pulled the trigger on a Deville but when I found out how small it was 32mm I got disinterested. Then I get this feeling like I might get a Frankenstein watch or something else I read in all the bad reviews. I guess I will wait longer while I look more.
Hey Joey,
How did the repair go? Did you end up placing it on a winder?
I recently purchased a clean 166.0213.
I inherited an omega . It’s in better condition than the ones Ive seen on eBay. 14k small mens watch ,square case with round face. . I have no idea how to go about getting it appraised or selling it. It looks like it was rarely worn. I saw it ,in a old picture,on the wrist of my grandfather who I never met. He passed away long before I was born. Possibly 1940’s (or earlier. )Suggestions?Thanks in advance.
Is it as bad as not returning a watch you loaned from Whatawatches?
well timing is everything - and the time was up for the omega to breakdown. I have a LeCoultre from the 70's - also a date./date - Swiss made for the American market. Don't wear it much - but do keep it wound
Nice video. But what can you tell me about omega de ville with the movement 625?
Seiko's 5606 date-changer:
"first time, uh?"
Yep I've never had a lord matic where the quickset works lol.
@@blakefrost8303 there's someone who make the King seiko version, with a metallic wheel.
then get a lord marvel without date complication 😂 you still got the high beat
Love vintage watchs...always picking them up at car boot sales
Boomer here...I hope this obsession with vintage this newer generation has does not extent to women.
I hope it does because I've loaded up on vintage Japan release only watches. And they are small. Would love for them to go up in value. I daily a Omega Mark 40. Had to spend $500 on extra links just to get it on my wrist
Have owned many 1020 & 1022 movement Omegas. I stopped purchasing them and sold them off because vintage Omegas are just to fragile. Never had a problem with them but you must treat them as if they have 0 water resistance and the acrylic crystals are not very robust, parts are old and amplitude is always a challenge. You need to be very careful of originality, there are so many franken vintage Omegas that are redialed, replated etc. Its fine to purchase them but you need full transparency.
Finally a serious episode
Can you please name the model of your eyeglasses?
Hello, do you know whether that issue persists on the 1022?
What about 1030 caliber? same issues?
Currently buying this seamaster with 1020. It is a beautiful watch, but i an worried beacuse of the faults. Can you buy new parts to this movement?
Warn people about automatic UA-cam bidding. in the last few seconds of my bidding as a high bid leader, SUDDENLY COMED "YOU LOST," and the watch of my dreams slid back into the great morass of many used watches, never to be seen again!!!
How much would a reasonable price be for such a watch?
so where do you need to search for vintage watches then
I used to have the whole movement replaced by a watchmaker. Back then when I was a watch collector.
Did you say NH home?
Never buy one without it having been serviced and with a warranty
Jory, I think the title is a bit misleading, I have vintage Omega's with 321/861/1861 and 1045 movements, they're all great and robust movements, so it's as you've said many years ago, do your homework/research etc?
Any thoughts on the 1045 movement?
For how much did you purchase that Omega ?
My 1020 Seamaster gets here tomorrow 😂
I'm the Time Teller, I don't fix the time, I just Tell it.
that's a beautiful watch I don't see the problem he sold you an old vintage watch
We’re not casting aspersions on any Granite Staters, I take it!
I own around 6 vintage omegas, can’t relate sorry … seem to be lucky but I’m cheating - Quarz 😂
That’s how I’m feeling is the right course unless you are an amateur watch maker yourself
How is this eBay’s fault?
How did he blame eBay
Do you still have this, golden omega 1020. Plz let me know. I wanna get one.
Got my fathers f300 omega, spent more than the value getting it serviced but its the only quartz i will wear.
Good as it’s not a quartz watch , esa 9162 or 9164, 1260. Lovely watch
@spikefcast1892 thought it was a quartz, but i looked into it after your comment. I like it more now, thanks
@@toddpower4674 yes i have one also it’s a lovely watch and this second hand is hypnotic 👍
I have my father’s f300hz from 1975.
@@Theylie2us62 cool, it's a unique watch that's so over looked
That thing is gorgeous lol.. must feel crazy on the wrist!
Hey, nice eyeglasses? What are they?
Your vintage watch needs service.. Shocker.. ?
Don’t do that again!
What a load of clickbait
Heres a hint.. stay away from ebay
More dancing / getting down.
Isn't eBay just a middle man facilitator.
Me thinks that the seller screwed you my friend.
ebay is where watch collectors go to dump their shitty watches lol
lol yeah sometimes but I recently made a video mentioning theres some hidden treasures on eBay where you just have to do homework to not get screwed. I got a beautiful Omega Constellation pie pan on eBay, the seller picked it up at an estate sale. It was just sitting in a drawer.
I just got the steel seamaster 1020 last week when this channel talked about it from eBay. It is a new old stock with 2 brand new bracelets. Talk about getting lucky. I couldn’t tell the excellent condition in the pics but when I opened up the package wow!
I've bought a few watches on ebay and never had any issues. That are now years old. You can even buy a brand new watch with issues. Nothing is issue free
Nightmare ???????
The best vintage watch is the one you bought as new 20 years ago :)
Watch winders save your watch from engaging the crown/winding system. This idea that they do harm is WIS to the max. Does it really matter if you have to service a watch in 5 or 10 years? Who cares?
eBay is trasssh
noob
Buying a calender omega on eBay, you're gonna get screwed! 😮