Nice video. I'm starting to get into Chromebooks and was looking for a SuzyQable. As you said, they're impossible to find, so your DIY makes for a cool alternative.
Nice Video, just got the cable working and it can be detected on both Windows and Linux. It was not working initially but all I needed to do was to flip the USB-C and it does the trick haha. Your video helps a lot with the wirings, thanks. I am able to unbrick my firmware now.
I really wish you had shown more closeups of what the circuit board looked like, ESPECIALLY when you soldered the wires. Instead, you just say "I have my SuzyQable put together", which is very frustrating.
The Saiko systems board is confirmed working, the green USB equivalents found on the likes of ebay and AliExpress are no good. An exception to the above is that there are versions with pin headers that seem to do the trick - haven't used one of those myself, but a colleague has.
You say connect "Green D-" to SBU2. Wikipedia says that Green (USB A Pin 3 as viewed 4 3 2 1 end on at the connector) Green is D+. Is it GREEN to SBU2 or is it D- to SBU2?
The colors of the wires can vary based on country, etc. When in doubt, pull out your multimeter and use the continuity test mode to determine what is what. D+ goes to SBU1 ,D- goes to SBU2.
Any 22k and 56k resistor should do. I used resistors I had on hand but the below should work: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tubedepot/294-56K-RC/10487886 www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/yageo/CFR-25JB-52-22K/1306
One of the normal functions of the CC pins is to detect the cable orientation. (Specifically, whether it goes straight through or is flipped.) To do this, the cable has a single CC wire going from CC1 on one end and CC2 on the other end. The devices can therefore figure out whether the cable is flipped based on which combination of CC pins on the ports get connected. The suzy q cable requires resistors on both CC pins to enable non-standard functionality. To do this, you must have both CC wires. A USB-C male to male cable won't provide this (unless you get lucky and find an emarker-equipped cable with an emarker on one end connected to the other end with a wire, rather than an emarker on both ends, and are able to figure out which end that is so you can use the non-emarker side). However, a USB-C male to female extension cable likely will work. (As long as you get one that advertises USB-PD support so you can be sure it has the CC wires and displayport alt mode support so you can be sure it has the SBU wires.) Such a cable can be thought of as basically moving a port somewhere else, not connecting two devices, so it should have all wires, no resistors, and no emarkers. That said, good luck figuring out which pin all the wires go to without having a breakout board anyways. I personally ordered a USB-C male to female cable and a USB-C female breakout board because I could get that faster than I could get a USB-C male breakout board. I will edit this comment once that stuff arrives and I've tried it. Edit: The USB-C male to female cable and female breakout board idea worked (though soldering the absolutely tiny wires was annoying), and my chromebook is now unbricked. It was actually less trouble than I was expecting to figure out which wires go where. The thick red wire delivered 5V as expected. My particular cable used the outer shield as the main ground. (Not sure whether that's allowed, but that's what my cable did.) The D+ and D- wires were green and white, as expected. The high speed differential pairs were shielded with individually with colored foil. So by simple process of elimination, the four thin wires that were neither green nor white were the wires I had to use.
Hi Jack I wonder if you can help me please I have ordered a usb-c full 24-pin breakout board, adapter, pin header converter module USBC board to make the debug cable. I have the resistors 56k ohm and the 22k ohm but noticed my board is slightly different to yours. It is a green board. If you type this in ebay it will bring up the exact board. Can you help me with this as the numbers on the board are different to yours. The board description is (USB-C full 24-pin breakout board, adapter, pin header converter, module, USBC). Kind regards David
Does it have the pin numbers labelled (A1, A2, A3, ...)? If so, you can follow the wiring diagram here: chromium.googlesource.com/chromiumos/third_party/hdctools/+/HEAD/docs/ccd.md#making-your-own-suzyq
You may find it difficult to find a USB-C cable which has SBU1/2 connected. Use two female breakout boards and a multimeter to probe the cable you intend to use to connect, and validate SBU1/2. Mark the cable with a permanent marker once you figure out the right orientation.
The official document calls for a 45.3k instead of a 56k like you used, and on the chrultrabook discord server, there's a mix of people saying 45.3k and 56k. What's going on there?
@@JackRosenthal1 But is there an instruction somewhere on how to check the cable, remove the protection from the Chromebook and flash the memory using it?
@@JackRosenthal1 according to your instructions, when you connect the cable to the PC and enter commands in the terminal, I don’t understand what you need to enter and in what system?
Thats what it says in the schematics. Too bad he didnt give us a real good close up of the front and back. And that hes also been offline since he posted this video.
I used two programs here: pyserial to access the serial console. this will run on Linux, Mac OS X, Windows, and BSD. there's also a variety of other serial programs you can choose from (minicom, putty, etc) flashrom to read and write the SPI flash -- which works on a wide variety of operating systems. see flashrom.org for more info.
Hello My friend, Will you ve able to send me your suzyqable for a good price or rather make me one via DYI for a good price? Many thanks in advance! I sent you an email but I am not receiving any feedback yet/ I will be gratefull if you could give me some answer. many thanks in advance!
Don't suppose it's clear at all why mine won't show the right response drive.google.com/drive/folders/1BEsrLkLa0aCkkfAHxNZClgTMnazgTSHt Third attempt. Chomebox 4. Everything else is fine, just the cable I make won't do what is expected
@@杨益-s4e I got this green board. Just swap the A5 pin for the A8 pin and the B5 pin for the B8 pin. The green board uses a backwards usbc-pinout: [pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ficheiro:USB\_Type-C\_plug\_pinout.svg](pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ficheiro:USB_Type-C_plug_pinout.svg) instead of this: www.allaboutcircuits.com/uploads/articles/Fig1m11292018.png
Nice video. I'm starting to get into Chromebooks and was looking for a SuzyQable. As you said, they're impossible to find, so your DIY makes for a cool alternative.
Nice Video, just got the cable working and it can be detected on both Windows and Linux. It was not working initially but all I needed to do was to flip the USB-C and it does the trick haha. Your video helps a lot with the wirings, thanks. I am able to unbrick my firmware now.
I got a different board (with backwards pinouts). Just swapped the A5 pin for the A8 pin and the B5 pin for the B8 pin. works perfectly! ty!
I really wish you had shown more closeups of what the circuit board looked like, ESPECIALLY when you soldered the wires. Instead, you just say "I have my SuzyQable put together", which is very frustrating.
Are you able to post a pic of your final product?
@Rotary Alkymist the upside down picture when its done.
imgur.com/a/ld3K6sX
The Saiko systems board is confirmed working, the green USB equivalents found on the likes of ebay and AliExpress are no good.
An exception to the above is that there are versions with pin headers that seem to do the trick - haven't used one of those myself, but a colleague has.
For the greens, swap the A5 pin for the A8 pin and the B5 pin for the B8 pin.
Thanks! This worked perfect!
good video, but some more detailed video of the pinouts and bridging would be greatly appreciated to compare
Jack, would you be willing to make a pair for sale?
You say connect "Green D-" to SBU2. Wikipedia says that Green (USB A Pin 3 as viewed 4 3 2 1 end on at the connector) Green is D+. Is it GREEN to SBU2 or is it D- to SBU2?
The colors of the wires can vary based on country, etc. When in doubt, pull out your multimeter and use the continuity test mode to determine what is what. D+ goes to SBU1 ,D- goes to SBU2.
What Chromebook is that in the right?
Could you please link specifically to the resistors you used as well? I want to make sure I get the correct components. THANK YOU!
Any 22k and 56k resistor should do. I used resistors I had on hand but the below should work:
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tubedepot/294-56K-RC/10487886
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/yageo/CFR-25JB-52-22K/1306
What's that long wire that goes to SHIELD? is that the red one which is merged to VBUS on the back? Thanks
Ground. You can see the schematics here: chromium.googlesource.com/chromiumos/third_party/hdctools/+/HEAD/docs/ccd.md#making-your-own-suzyq
Why is a breakout board needed? Can't you just cut a USB-C cable and re-wire the cables and put the resistors on some of them?
That should work but may be difficult.
One of the normal functions of the CC pins is to detect the cable orientation. (Specifically, whether it goes straight through or is flipped.) To do this, the cable has a single CC wire going from CC1 on one end and CC2 on the other end. The devices can therefore figure out whether the cable is flipped based on which combination of CC pins on the ports get connected.
The suzy q cable requires resistors on both CC pins to enable non-standard functionality. To do this, you must have both CC wires. A USB-C male to male cable won't provide this (unless you get lucky and find an emarker-equipped cable with an emarker on one end connected to the other end with a wire, rather than an emarker on both ends, and are able to figure out which end that is so you can use the non-emarker side).
However, a USB-C male to female extension cable likely will work. (As long as you get one that advertises USB-PD support so you can be sure it has the CC wires and displayport alt mode support so you can be sure it has the SBU wires.) Such a cable can be thought of as basically moving a port somewhere else, not connecting two devices, so it should have all wires, no resistors, and no emarkers. That said, good luck figuring out which pin all the wires go to without having a breakout board anyways.
I personally ordered a USB-C male to female cable and a USB-C female breakout board because I could get that faster than I could get a USB-C male breakout board. I will edit this comment once that stuff arrives and I've tried it.
Edit: The USB-C male to female cable and female breakout board idea worked (though soldering the absolutely tiny wires was annoying), and my chromebook is now unbricked. It was actually less trouble than I was expecting to figure out which wires go where. The thick red wire delivered 5V as expected. My particular cable used the outer shield as the main ground. (Not sure whether that's allowed, but that's what my cable did.) The D+ and D- wires were green and white, as expected. The high speed differential pairs were shielded with individually with colored foil. So by simple process of elimination, the four thin wires that were neither green nor white were the wires I had to use.
Hi Jack I wonder if you can help me please I have ordered a usb-c full 24-pin breakout board, adapter, pin header converter module USBC board to make the debug cable. I have the resistors 56k ohm and the 22k ohm but noticed my board is slightly different to yours. It is a green board. If you type this in ebay it will bring up the exact board. Can you help me with this as the numbers on the board are different to yours. The board description is (USB-C full 24-pin breakout board, adapter, pin header converter, module, USBC). Kind regards David
Does it have the pin numbers labelled (A1, A2, A3, ...)? If so, you can follow the wiring diagram here: chromium.googlesource.com/chromiumos/third_party/hdctools/+/HEAD/docs/ccd.md#making-your-own-suzyq
Can I buy this from you?
Thanks man.
still no supplier for these cables? i need one real badly 😢
Well you can make one like in the video 🫠
How did you bridge all of the ground points?
You can use any wire you have handy.
Where did you solder the red 5v cable to?
VBUS (A4, A9, B4, B9)
Can it use Type c female, cause i cant find Male breakout board in my country.
You may find it difficult to find a USB-C cable which has SBU1/2 connected. Use two female breakout boards and a multimeter to probe the cable you intend to use to connect, and validate SBU1/2. Mark the cable with a permanent marker once you figure out the right orientation.
@@JackRosenthal1 i try it. Thank you.
The official document calls for a 45.3k instead of a 56k like you used, and on the chrultrabook discord server, there's a mix of people saying 45.3k and 56k. What's going on there?
The 56k works on some boards but according to documentation it is supposed to be 45.3k
Which software are you using to execute those commands??
Here I used flashrom to read/write the SPI flash, and the pyserial package to access the console.
hello, I made a cable according to your instructions, how can I check if it works?
Test it with a Chromebook. See from 6:45 until the end of the video.
@@JackRosenthal1 But is there an instruction somewhere on how to check the cable, remove the protection from the Chromebook and flash the memory using it?
@@JackRosenthal1 according to your instructions, when you connect the cable to the PC and enter commands in the terminal, I don’t understand what you need to enter and in what system?
I not need the programm right just the cable and than with shell etc...
so you put a jumper from B4 to A9, and one from A4 to B9, but never connected those two nets to each other. Shouldn't all 4 VBUS' be ganged?
Thats what it says in the schematics. Too bad he didnt give us a real good close up of the front and back. And that hes also been offline since he posted this video.
Does the program only run on Linux and ChromeOS?
I used two programs here:
pyserial to access the serial console. this will run on Linux, Mac OS X, Windows, and BSD. there's also a variety of other serial programs you can choose from (minicom, putty, etc)
flashrom to read and write the SPI flash -- which works on a wide variety of operating systems. see flashrom.org for more info.
@@JackRosenthal1 thank you !!! 🤓
Hey would you be interested in making one for a profit possibly?
No, it would be a lot of work to make and distribute these.
I thought green is D+ and white is D-
im too dumb to make this but im willing to buy one if possible, pretty please anyone ?
3:26 i think you meant to say A4 and B9
That's what I heard, I was like wtf did I make a mistake?
Right, you should join all VBUS pins together (A4, A9, B4, B9). Thanks.
ayo bro tf is up with your channel, aki rosenthal?
Hello My friend, Will you ve able to send me your suzyqable for a good price or rather make me one via DYI for a good price? Many thanks in advance! I sent you an email but I am not receiving any feedback yet/ I will be gratefull if you could give me some answer. many thanks in advance!
Sorry, but I don't have the capabilities to handle making these at scale or distributing them.
Don't suppose it's clear at all why mine won't show the right response
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1BEsrLkLa0aCkkfAHxNZClgTMnazgTSHt
Third attempt. Chomebox 4. Everything else is fine, just the cable I make won't do what is expected
Hi, did you figure out why your cable cannot work? Mine breakout board is just the same with yours. THX!
@@杨益-s4e I got this green board. Just swap the A5 pin for the A8 pin and the B5 pin for the B8 pin.
The green board uses a backwards usbc-pinout:
[pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ficheiro:USB\_Type-C\_plug\_pinout.svg](pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ficheiro:USB_Type-C_plug_pinout.svg)
instead of this:
www.allaboutcircuits.com/uploads/articles/Fig1m11292018.png
@@leadscollector Can you send a picture of how it turned out? and if it's working perfectly