Wowww! I'm new to the bike world but despite people with more experience telling me my cassette should be changed because my chain was long overdue, I couldn't visibly find any difference between my old vs my new cassette (as opposed to my chainring which was a complete goner), therefore I was not convinced my cassette should be changed... I am now 100% convinced! Thanks for enlightening me!
I use a “dummy link” it’s single two links, it’s just one set of outside links attached ti the inner links with the rollers, set it on the chainring or cassette and if it slides back and fourth, the chainring or cassette is warn, if it sits in place and dosent move back and forth they are just fine
Love the pick tool tactic! Great tip! I also think it would be worth to mention if you're replacing a drivetrain to also make sure to examine jockey wheels conditions as those wear out too.
always have some spare jockey wheels at home - the bearings go on them - OEM jockey wheels are often poor & the ball race can seize-up with dirt. Remember the top/bottom jockey wheels are different and they are also directional - keep the instruction leaflet to ensure correct installation.
I bought an old road bike and the previous owner let the chain stretch way too much. As I wanted to use it for commuting and some training and didn't want to invest too much into it, I simply replaced only the chain. It is a 3x8 setup and guess what - everything works just fine. I think that once your cassette and chainring(s) are slightly worn and a new chain does not skip, it is almost always quite a bit cheaper to get some more kms/miles out of your old setup.
@@bmxscape You are right. I was pointing out that sometimes it is possible to get some more use out of your old components instead of replacing them. To put it into perspective - I paid around 12 euros for a new chain, would need to pay at least five times as much for a new chain, cassette and chainrings. If this gives me even a couple of hundreds kms more out of the old components, I am still perfectly fine with it.
yup, I always found that you can ride with a worn casette for many thousands of kilometers and given how much cheaper that are than chains it can be worth it
This is a nice and easy way to examine the cassette for wear, thank you! It can be dangerous to ride when the chain skips over worn teeth. I once lost one side of a quick link because of a skipping chain on a worn cassette. I needed a friend to pick me up, but had it happened on a steep climb out of the saddle, I could have had a bad crash!
I recently changed the chain on a shimano 1x12 as it was reading just over .75. After changing the chain the chain was skipping but only in the smallest cog on the cassette. I looked around and found that shimano sell a pack containing a just the 10 and 12t cogs (search part no Y1X498030) probably not the ideal solution but it worked for me as only my 10t cog was deformed and its about quarter the price of a new cassette. Just in case that helps anyone 👍🏻
I use a shimano ten speed on my ebike, the 4 smallest cogs are separate and the rest are on 2 spiders. The small cogs (and spiders) are available separate and they are cheap so buy them in bulk!!
That's an option I've taken several times. Nothing can match a 1/8" wide track chain and sprockets for distance. Check out Sheldon Brown's site. No, not the football player.
I actually like cleaning my bikes so I do it every 500 miles on both my road and touring bike. That includes re-lube of the chain. New chain every 3,000 miles. Neither bike gets particularly dirty, at least not for long. Road bike is 32 years old with original chainrings and cassette. No skipping issues and very quiet.
you clean and lube every 500miles, i do it every 100km, you must be pedal like dove, when i made 2000km per month, i replaced 1 chain per month, but i drove races, my wife same chain would never wear
@@makantahi3731 if I cleaned my bikes every 100K, it would be one every week or sometimes both every week. I follow Calvin's bike cleaning video. If I am really efficient, it takes 2 hours to prepare, wash, dry, and relube both bikes. These are road and touring bikes, not mud bog or hill climbers.
@@fouresterofthetrees287 i do not clean frame fork rims, i only clean chain and sometimes cassette and front gears, i use wax and everything around transmission is relatively clean, and chain waxing must be done at 100-120km, 1 pass with wax takes 3-4minutes, usually i made 2 passes, so 8 minutes and chain lasts at least 6 times longer than on oil, i do it for last 5 years and i spent maybe 5-6 chains that works on 3 bikes: on my road bike goes new chain that stays on it 3-4000km, then it goes on my mtb for 1000km and after that it goes on my wife bike and it stays there until got worn, every bike always has same stretched chain
There is actually a go- no go tool for checking chainring wear. I believe Park makes one. With all the ramping and profiling on modern cassettes and chainrings this might not always work. Cassette cogs typically wear out according to the one used most and small ones faster than larger. I never thought about looking for the burr but that makes sense. The real proof is if it works well with a new chain. Or an interesting experiment with a half worn chain were used. No doubt this has been done and worked, forestalling expensive repairs. The chainrings may not even be available but worn chains are!
Derailleur pullys definitely last significantly longer, because there’s no driving force going through them. I’d say replace them when you have problems with your chain falling off the pullys
"That would be 150usd for a new 11s casette + 50usd for a new 11s chain" Just compare those prices of replacement parts to 2x 8s groupsets and durability of them
Each to his own. If you ride more open gravel roads then 2x10 or 2x9 is good for you. But there is nothing wrong with 1x12. Yes, it costs more. And yes its not as robust. But it works better for some. All gear systems are good if you use it for its best indended purposes. Always take into consideration how much you ride, what terrain youll be riding, what kind of riding style you have and what you want to do with he bike. This will help you decide wich system is best for you and wether you can justify spendig the money on that drivetrain. 🚲
Excellent demo. I have exactly this issue. New chain skips intermittently on highest gear only so old part-worn cassette is still OK for a few miles yet because I rarely use the top gear.
I came for this. 😁 Just replaced my chain, and the smallest cogs skip. Ok. I need a new cassette. For the time being if I need my bike, I'll only use the low gears.
Love the topic, was just inspecting a cassette after replacing a chain, but I don't totally follow what is meant by the roller rubbing the face of the cog? I thought most of the pressure was exerted downward into the area between the teeth
I believe what they are saying is that if you were looking straight on the cassette, the tooth at the very top of any cog (or the 12 o'clock position) is being driven primarily on the left side of that tooth, so over time thousands of revolutions would cause tiny deformations to eventually form a 'burr' on the face of the tooth but only on the left side. You are probably right that there is some force on the cog between the teeth but the majority of it is concentrated on the back side of the tooth.
Since you're going to need a new cassette eventually anyway, might as well buy one when you buy a new chain, and at worst not have to use it right away, but if you used that worn chain for any time, you'll probably need it sooner than later, if not immediately. Plus, prices tend to go up so this locks in the savings.
I did a tour in 2018, 3,350 miles on an 8spdx3, plus hundreds more on return, must have done 4000+ on the same chain/cassette, hauling front+rear panniers+camping gear. Id say most of the time I get 5000 miles between a chain/cassette change. By this time the gear changing is getting a bit crunchy but hey, I get my moneys worth.
If i have scratches on my slx cassette (12 speed 10-51 tooth) on the large black ring can i cover the scratches up with a sharpie or will that decrease the shifting quality?
SRAM GX Eagle, from new I bought 4 chains, and I changed them at 600Km, when all of them as 600Km, they go for another round, doing this all over again, I wear 4 chains and 3 front plates, my cassette made 11000Km believe it or not I change it because of another failure, after smashing my rear wheel I damaged the cassette mounting system, I was hoping for even more, maybe 12000Km was the point of change. Cassette and chain must have the same amount of wear to work well.
Once I put a 4th chain on a 6500 Ultegra cassette at 7,500 miles and skipping immediately started. I installed a new cassette, but to my surprise, riding just a few dozen miles meant that the chain had worn funny also and therefore I had to bin and almost new chain. So I’d say, if there’s any doubt, just replace the cassette before risking a new chain (I understand this advice might not be applicable one of those super expensive mountain bike cassettes. Keep those drivetrains as clean as possible! It was painful to look at the one in this video.)
first voice of that, did you measure chain to see where and how much it is extended, i have experience where new chain made cassette to cure after some km of light use- when that chain stopped skipping, i installed new chain to check is really cassette fixed or just chain extended and adjusted on that cassette, and new chain did not skip
This is actuallyalong the lines of something I was asking about in my own comment. If you're chain isn't fit properly, can it cause premature wear. And it sounds like that answer is yes.
@@randalclark6283 so,if chain does not have direction or side of installation,if is properly passed through derailleurs,if link is not frozen,nothing else can be done wrong with instalation,,chain wear is in direct connection with maintenance
You must live, or at least ride, in relatively flat terrain, be a relatively smaller person, and/or keep your drive train exceptionally clean. I average, at most, 2000 km per chain, 1 cassette per 2 or 3 chains, and 1 chainring per 2 cassettes. But then, I'm ~200 lbs, love climbing hills, and ride in all weather. I only get about 1000 km per chain on the CX bikes.
Good sensible numbers there, but I not an expert. But an expert recommended to me Campagnolo chains, which I use even for MTB. They last really long and protect our expensive cassettes.
When my bike had a 2x7 setup I had worn my chain out but didn't think anything of the cassette, fitted the new chain and as I rode the bike for the first time after it jumped lots, then I realised I had left it too late. Thankfully not all the gears were knackered so I still had 1,2,5,6,7 in the back. I have since upgraded to a 1x10 setup
On my emtb stock nx chain was dead at 600miles. Curiously ultra expensive gx12 cassette was dead too. I was furious and used a 11speed gx cassette that was cheaper. This 11 speed cassette has done 4000miles and 3 chains and still looks like it will do a few more miles. I wonder whats going on. Is gx 12 lower quality ? Is cannondale dumb choice of putting a nx chain on 6800$ bike destroyed the first cassette ? I found a tip on sickbiker to measure the teeth width it is reliable. Below 3mm on small cogs the chain will skip.
The chain typically wears the burr off of the chainring. The teeth get narrower as well as "shark fin" on a chainring. If a 1x you will get a "rumble" on 2x an 3x they will get to the point of skipping, dropping chains or not shifting.
They wear out much slower because almost no torque is applied to them. Even cheap plastic ones can outlast a cassette. Replace them when they "look" worn, sharpened, chipped teeth are a good indicator.
Is there anything you can do do prevent cassette wear? I see cassettes made out of titanium would that last longer or is that just moving the wear to your chain? I ride an ebike and the amount of maintenance I have to do is like 10X more than my old bike.
Not a sarcastic statement: Do not ride it. Metal is pushing against metal under stress. For an ebike, there is stress from the legs and the motor. You can extend the life but they will wear. For most people, they have 2 or 3 favorite gears, and these wear out first. If cassette manufacturers had a system to replace only those worn gears, it might help things.
Wasn’t finished typing. My problem is, I’m trying to get an 11 speed SRAM cassette off a Giant Trance Advanced wheel. I have all the tools, turning it anti clock, it tightens, becomes freer and then clicks. I have seen others on other channel’s with the identical problem. From the comments , it appears that the free hub has unwound itself from its mount on the hub. Now what, appreciate your comments/ help. Thanks Regards Charlie
This sounds very odd. This could only happen if the splines of the freehub body were either not long enough or they were stripped. In those cases you may need to remove the entire freehub body and use a strap wrench or clamp it in a vise.
Yeah basically. Look at a worn chainring compared to a new chainring and you can tell the old teeth are almost hook shaped. You’ll figure out what to look for when you compare the teeth side by side 👍
I use my old CC-2 to determine if my chain is getting close to the change point. I then use a good steel ruler to see if it's really there. If you get the chain checker on an angle, it can give you a false reading. If you can keep your chain very clean, you can double it's life (or more)
Please explain. Bikes run one chain that must accurately engage teeth on all sprockets of the cassette, therefore it seems logical the teeth are machined to the same spacing. Looking at a new Shimano 12 speed cassette the shape of teeth varies to aid chain shifting between sprockets, but using verniers the centre to centre spacing of the cutout between teeth is the same on all sprockets. @@parktool
@@antc5010but is the spacing the same from one set of gears to the next? E.g. Is the spacing between teeth on the highest gear the same as the lowest? Seems to me the spacing would need to be different as the higher gears will have a smaller radius, but the chain is of a fixed length.
Parktool please help me... Crank arm keeps coming loose even i tighten it properly it wobbles when i move the crank arm left to right not when i push and pull the crank arm.
Your crank arms attachment point has been run loose too long and it will no loner stay tight. The crank arm needs to be replaced. if a left arm you can replace just the arm. If the right side then you will need a new crankset.
On that style of crank it is not common to come loose if done up. Keep the pinch bolts loose then snug the pre load adjuster ring and then tighten the pinch bolts. If there is still play in the system it is likely that you are missing a spacer that would go between the bottom bracket shell and the bottom bracket. When this is missing you will be prevented from attaining proper preload with the pre load adjusting cap.
Why not leave the it as is? (chain, cassette, chainring until complete failure of wear parts of the drivetrain) as long as shifting performance isnt compromised and the chain stays where it's supposed to be while riding
This was left on for too long already. Shifting was not crisp and it was starting to degrade riding experience. Ride as long as you feel you want on a setup but for those that want predictable performance it is important to keep things in good condition.
that's like saying "your handlebars are half way rusted through about to snap in half, might aswell keep using them until they break so you save money"
So let's say you have 1 set of wheels. You replace that cassette every 3 chains. Ok. Now, let's say you have 2 sets of wheels that you swap between. How does the 3 to 1 ratio work now? (Genuinely interested as this is my new 1st world problem) Thanks for any advice in advance
Your 3 to 1 chain/cassette 1st world problem is not reality. Change chain before 75% wear always. Cassette wear is now dependent on quality, your weight and power, and the slop you choose to ride in or not. If it's a 1x setup, it's a crapshoot as they eat chains and cassettes at an alarming rate, that's the bike industry for ya!
so if my chain is that worn, and I already need to replace my cassette and chain ring... then i should just keep riding my bike as is, until it's absolutely unridable... no need worry about getting my drivetrain, because it's all already worn?
You will start to have drivetrain reliability issues once the chain gets past that .8% mark. After that point the chances of breaking a chain, imprecise shifting, broken teeth and dropped chains goes up very quickly. For predictable shifting and reliability, replace once you get to that .8% or if you want to lengthen the life of your cassette replace the chain at .5%.
@@parktool Thank you for the response! I could almost guess it wasn't a good idea to "just keep riding it as is"... it's just rare that anyone goes into what would actually happen (other than wearing out the drivetrain). Btw, I actually love my bike and take really good care of it. Big thanks to you guys and the content you put out. It's so helpful and informative. A lot of what I know I owe to you :)
Conmuting bike, 2 years, 20km a day everyday. Petrol shake every six months for the chain. Wait for drying, then thin oil lube, a drop per roller. Shifts ok. Chain stretched but ok.
@@dystopiaisutopia no always I had a 1x that looked absolutely fine, normal profile, but chain would catch a few teeth after normal disengagement point, had a new chain so I bought a new ring and all good
chain skipping is in function of how much is gear worn, force you pedal and number of teeth in grip(how big is gear/ring) so, on smaller gear will skip on smaller force than on bigger ring , on more worn ring, it will skip at less force than on less worn gear and any combination of it
Troubleshooting started as soon as the rider mentioned an issue. Complaint was that "the bike was skipping". First step, check the chain. Chain was worn. How worn? Very worn. What issue can a worn chain cause? A worn cassette and chainring. Both cause poor performance and noise. Solution= Replace chains, cassette, and chainring.
Although some ParkTool videos are goofy, others are neck deep in knowledge, like the wheel and spoke series. You must also remember their videos are aiming for a general audience who are interested enought on bicycles to want to learn more but lack knowledge or enough interest like a hobbyist or mechanic would to go for the detailed stuff. If someone wants to learn far more and in "an adult prackage" they can go to Sheldon Brown's website. You must also remember that they make weekly videos, there is only so much info they can share before you start repeating yourself
Wowww! I'm new to the bike world but despite people with more experience telling me my cassette should be changed because my chain was long overdue, I couldn't visibly find any difference between my old vs my new cassette (as opposed to my chainring which was a complete goner), therefore I was not convinced my cassette should be changed...
I am now 100% convinced! Thanks for enlightening me!
These videos never fail. I always come here for high quality information on bikes. This channel is truly a dream come true. Thank you so much!
One of the reason I keep on buying Blue tools is this kind of enlightening videos! Thank you so much.
I use a “dummy link” it’s single two links, it’s just one set of outside links attached ti the inner links with the rollers, set it on the chainring or cassette and if it slides back and fourth, the chainring or cassette is warn, if it sits in place and dosent move back and forth they are just fine
Good idea ^^
I do the same thing but I got 4 links and pinned it into a square, a bit hard to pin it but a nice neat gauge tool.
Very good!!!!!
Love the pick tool tactic! Great tip! I also think it would be worth to mention if you're replacing a drivetrain to also make sure to examine jockey wheels conditions as those wear out too.
Do they really need to be replaced? I think they are not receiving intense load
@@omniyambot9876 not as often as drivetrain components, but I've seen jockey wheels also become like shark fins from wear.
@@omniyambot9876 I've had them cracked on SRAM X9,X0 , Rival. Never has an issue on Shimano though.
always have some spare jockey wheels at home - the bearings go on them - OEM jockey wheels are often poor & the ball race can seize-up with dirt. Remember the top/bottom jockey wheels are different and they are also directional - keep the instruction leaflet to ensure correct installation.
Holy mother of Calvin 😂
Haha, gold
After discovering this channel last week and not seeing any new tech tuesdays, it's good to see this
I bought an old road bike and the previous owner let the chain stretch way too much. As I wanted to use it for commuting and some training and didn't want to invest too much into it, I simply replaced only the chain. It is a 3x8 setup and guess what - everything works just fine. I think that once your cassette and chainring(s) are slightly worn and a new chain does not skip, it is almost always quite a bit cheaper to get some more kms/miles out of your old setup.
old compoents mixed with new components will cause all of them to wear out faster
@@bmxscape You are right. I was pointing out that sometimes it is possible to get some more use out of your old components instead of replacing them. To put it into perspective - I paid around 12 euros for a new chain, would need to pay at least five times as much for a new chain, cassette and chainrings. If this gives me even a couple of hundreds kms more out of the old components, I am still perfectly fine with it.
@@benokrizek8020 yes that is a good point, getting the max life out of old components is also a good thing
yup, I always found that you can ride with a worn casette for many thousands of kilometers and given how much cheaper that are than chains it can be worth it
Truman is gaining more experience and wisdom as shown by a subtle touch of grey.
This is a nice and easy way to examine the cassette for wear, thank you! It can be dangerous to ride when the chain skips over worn teeth. I once lost one side of a quick link because of a skipping chain on a worn cassette. I needed a friend to pick me up, but had it happened on a steep climb out of the saddle, I could have had a bad crash!
Well, if no one else is going to say it.... always bring a spare quick link on every ride. :)
I recently changed the chain on a shimano 1x12 as it was reading just over .75. After changing the chain the chain was skipping but only in the smallest cog on the cassette. I looked around and found that shimano sell a pack containing a just the 10 and 12t cogs (search part no Y1X498030) probably not the ideal solution but it worked for me as only my 10t cog was deformed and its about quarter the price of a new cassette. Just in case that helps anyone 👍🏻
I use a shimano ten speed on my ebike, the 4 smallest cogs are separate and the rest are on 2 spiders. The small cogs (and spiders) are available separate and they are cheap so buy them in bulk!!
That's an option I've taken several times. Nothing can match a 1/8" wide track chain and sprockets for distance. Check out Sheldon Brown's site. No, not the football player.
I think you are meant to change 12 speed chains at about 0.5. Just something I heard.
@@krzysiu4003 you're right. I'm just lazy 👍
Doesn't using worn cassette (even though it doesn't skip) wear the new chain faster?
I actually like cleaning my bikes so I do it every 500 miles on both my road and touring bike. That includes re-lube of the chain. New chain every 3,000 miles. Neither bike gets particularly dirty, at least not for long. Road bike is 32 years old with original chainrings and cassette. No skipping issues and very quiet.
A clean bike is a happy bike! Older road bikes with fewer gears did last quite a bit longer due to the additional material.
you clean and lube every 500miles, i do it every 100km, you must be pedal like dove, when i made 2000km per month, i replaced 1 chain per month, but i drove races, my wife same chain would never wear
@@makantahi3731 if I cleaned my bikes every 100K, it would be one every week or sometimes both every week. I follow Calvin's bike cleaning video. If I am really efficient, it takes 2 hours to prepare, wash, dry, and relube both bikes. These are road and touring bikes, not mud bog or hill climbers.
@@fouresterofthetrees287 i do not clean frame fork rims, i only clean chain and sometimes cassette and front gears, i use wax and everything around transmission is relatively clean, and chain waxing must be done at 100-120km, 1 pass with wax takes 3-4minutes, usually i made 2 passes, so 8 minutes and chain lasts at least 6 times longer than on oil, i do it for last 5 years and i spent maybe 5-6 chains that works on 3 bikes: on my road bike goes new chain that stays on it 3-4000km, then it goes on my mtb for 1000km and after that it goes on my wife bike and it stays there until got worn, every bike always has same stretched chain
@Austin Jew do you remove chain from bike and put into petrol/thinner?
I've been trying to figure out how to do this for years. finally an answer!
I'm replacing my chain and cassette, anyway, but now I know exactly why. Many thanks.
Ace tip 😁👍👏 Thanks lads ! (Truman & Calvin ………you always have the answers ⭐⭐⭐)
There is actually a go- no go tool for checking chainring wear. I believe Park makes one. With all the ramping and profiling on modern cassettes and chainrings this might not always work. Cassette cogs typically wear out according to the one used most and small ones faster than larger. I never thought about looking for the burr but that makes sense. The real proof is if it works well with a new chain. Or an interesting experiment with a half worn chain were used. No doubt this has been done and worked, forestalling expensive repairs. The chainrings may not even be available but worn chains are!
After I bought my chain checker I'm tempted to just check everyone's chain
once i heard anecdote from advertisement clerk: he received add from free butcher: I slaughter at home, so you could ad: i measure chains at home
😄
Literally use a ruler
And my entire bucket of old chains just because….
very good presentation....top .........greetings from Germany
When replacing both chain and cassette should one also consider the derailleur pulleys? How or when should they be replaced?
no, metal dura ace 1995. metal pulley survived 60 000km
Derailleur pullys definitely last significantly longer, because there’s no driving force going through them. I’d say replace them when you have problems with your chain falling off the pullys
They should be checked and cleaned at a minimum. They're a gunk collection spot that can impact shifting
Hi, just discovered the channel, like the approach. I have a problem, which up to now, nobody has come up with a solution..
hi park tool ,
i bought my self the hg check tool from park tool, but still wait for a video on your channel, how to use that tool well. thx
Whoa the bike and drive train is automatically clean itself when changing to new part as it so happy u done it
You stay classy San Diego. Thanks for stopping by. LOL
"That would be 150usd for a new 11s casette + 50usd for a new 11s chain"
Just compare those prices of replacement parts to 2x 8s groupsets and durability of them
This 1X thing is a mess. And it adds unsprung weight with those pizza like cassettes. Still running 2*10 and 3*9 on our world touring mountain bikes.
Each to his own. If you ride more open gravel roads then 2x10 or 2x9 is good for you. But there is nothing wrong with 1x12. Yes, it costs more. And yes its not as robust. But it works better for some. All gear systems are good if you use it for its best indended purposes. Always take into consideration how much you ride, what terrain youll be riding, what kind of riding style you have and what you want to do with he bike. This will help you decide wich system is best for you and wether you can justify spendig the money on that drivetrain. 🚲
what about the jockey wheels should those also be replaced?
Excellent demo. I have exactly this issue. New chain skips intermittently on highest gear only so old part-worn cassette is still OK for a few miles yet because I rarely use the top gear.
I came for this. 😁 Just replaced my chain, and the smallest cogs skip.
Ok. I need a new cassette. For the time being if I need my bike, I'll only use the low gears.
You can also just look at the cut outs between the teeth. If they have more of a D facing down than a C facing up then it's worn.
I am still on 9 speeed set ups i still love the 9speed i use sram pg990 cassettes longest lasting cassettes i have found..
Great tip! Thanks!
Love the topic, was just inspecting a cassette after replacing a chain, but I don't totally follow what is meant by the roller rubbing the face of the cog? I thought most of the pressure was exerted downward into the area between the teeth
I believe what they are saying is that if you were looking straight on the cassette, the tooth at the very top of any cog (or the 12 o'clock position) is being driven primarily on the left side of that tooth, so over time thousands of revolutions would cause tiny deformations to eventually form a 'burr' on the face of the tooth but only on the left side. You are probably right that there is some force on the cog between the teeth but the majority of it is concentrated on the back side of the tooth.
Since you're going to need a new cassette eventually anyway, might as well buy one when you buy a new chain, and at worst not have to use it right away, but if you used that worn chain for any time, you'll probably need it sooner than later, if not immediately. Plus, prices tend to go up so this locks in the savings.
Thank you
God job
I use a KMC sprocket checker tool. No guessing.
How many miles/KMs are you typically getting out of your cassette?
1500-2k unless crashes have other plans
4 chains/2.2k miles on XT 12s stuff.
I did a tour in 2018, 3,350 miles on an 8spdx3, plus hundreds more on return, must have done 4000+ on the same chain/cassette, hauling front+rear panniers+camping gear. Id say most of the time I get 5000 miles between a chain/cassette change. By this time the gear changing is getting a bit crunchy but hey, I get my moneys worth.
Guess i should clarify thats all dirt miles for me miles And I’m a bit rough on my mech!
2000-5000 km
If i have scratches on my slx cassette (12 speed 10-51 tooth) on the large black ring can i cover the scratches up with a sharpie or will that decrease the shifting quality?
Sharpie it up! It will have no effect on shifting.
Thanks! It looks amazing!
There's a living legendary. Where a chain checker can't fall between but not because the chain still good, it because everything is worn.
Super good advice!
SRAM GX Eagle, from new I bought 4 chains, and I changed them at 600Km, when all of them as 600Km, they go for another round, doing this all over again, I wear 4 chains and 3 front plates, my cassette made 11000Km believe it or not I change it because of another failure, after smashing my rear wheel I damaged the cassette mounting system, I was hoping for even more, maybe 12000Km was the point of change. Cassette and chain must have the same amount of wear to work well.
Once I put a 4th chain on a 6500 Ultegra cassette at 7,500 miles and skipping immediately started. I installed a new cassette, but to my surprise, riding just a few dozen miles meant that the chain had worn funny also and therefore I had to bin and almost new chain. So I’d say, if there’s any doubt, just replace the cassette before risking a new chain (I understand this advice might not be applicable one of those super expensive mountain bike cassettes. Keep those drivetrains as clean as possible! It was painful to look at the one in this video.)
first voice of that, did you measure chain to see where and how much it is extended, i have experience where new chain made cassette to cure after some km of light use- when that chain stopped skipping, i installed new chain to check is really cassette fixed or just chain extended and adjusted on that cassette, and new chain did not skip
This is actuallyalong the lines of something I was asking about in my own comment. If you're chain isn't fit properly, can it cause premature wear. And it sounds like that answer is yes.
@@keithchristner4522 explain how chain can be installed unproperly and that would not be obviously ,
@@makantahi3731 new SRAM chains are unidirectional and can be put on backwards. Only thing I could think of.
@@randalclark6283 so,if chain does not have direction or side of installation,if is properly passed through derailleurs,if link is not frozen,nothing else can be done wrong with instalation,,chain wear is in direct connection with maintenance
1chain per 4000 km
1 casette per 4 chains
Chainrings per 2 casettes..
This equation worked for me perfect
Expert coments apppreciated🙏😇
You must live, or at least ride, in relatively flat terrain, be a relatively smaller person, and/or keep your drive train exceptionally clean. I average, at most, 2000 km per chain, 1 cassette per 2 or 3 chains, and 1 chainring per 2 cassettes. But then, I'm ~200 lbs, love climbing hills, and ride in all weather. I only get about 1000 km per chain on the CX bikes.
Good sensible numbers there, but I not an expert.
But an expert recommended to me Campagnolo chains, which I use even for MTB. They last really long and protect our expensive cassettes.
When my bike had a 2x7 setup I had worn my chain out but didn't think anything of the cassette, fitted the new chain and as I rode the bike for the first time after it jumped lots, then I realised I had left it too late. Thankfully not all the gears were knackered so I still had 1,2,5,6,7 in the back.
I have since upgraded to a 1x10 setup
On my emtb stock nx chain was dead at 600miles. Curiously ultra expensive gx12 cassette was dead too. I was furious and used a 11speed gx cassette that was cheaper. This 11 speed cassette has done 4000miles and 3 chains and still looks like it will do a few more miles. I wonder whats going on. Is gx 12 lower quality ? Is cannondale dumb choice of putting a nx chain on 6800$ bike destroyed the first cassette ? I found a tip on sickbiker to measure the teeth width it is reliable. Below 3mm on small cogs the chain will skip.
I assume you could check front chainring wear by moving the pick towards the front of the bike.
The chain typically wears the burr off of the chainring. The teeth get narrower as well as "shark fin" on a chainring. If a 1x you will get a "rumble" on 2x an 3x they will get to the point of skipping, dropping chains or not shifting.
When should you change the derailleur pulleys? Do they wear out slower than cassette?
They wear out much slower because almost no torque is applied to them. Even cheap plastic ones can outlast a cassette. Replace them when they "look" worn, sharpened, chipped teeth are a good indicator.
Is there anything you can do do prevent cassette wear? I see cassettes made out of titanium would that last longer or is that just moving the wear to your chain? I ride an ebike and the amount of maintenance I have to do is like 10X more than my old bike.
Not a sarcastic statement: Do not ride it.
Metal is pushing against metal under stress. For an ebike, there is stress from the legs and the motor. You can extend the life but they will wear. For most people, they have 2 or 3 favorite gears, and these wear out first. If cassette manufacturers had a system to replace only those worn gears, it might help things.
Wasn’t finished typing. My problem is, I’m trying to get an 11 speed SRAM cassette off a Giant Trance Advanced wheel. I have all the tools, turning it anti clock, it tightens, becomes freer and then clicks. I have seen others on other channel’s with the identical problem. From the comments , it appears that the free hub has unwound itself from its mount on the hub.
Now what, appreciate your comments/ help. Thanks
Regards Charlie
This sounds very odd. This could only happen if the splines of the freehub body were either not long enough or they were stripped. In those cases you may need to remove the entire freehub body and use a strap wrench or clamp it in a vise.
Hello Bonjour , Super ! Thank you 💫👍👋😁
Fingernails work well to detect burrs also😮
How do you assess chainring wear? Same way?
Yeah basically. Look at a worn chainring compared to a new chainring and you can tell the old teeth are almost hook shaped. You’ll figure out what to look for when you compare the teeth side by side 👍
YOU GUYS CHANGE YOUR CASSETTE?!?!?!
Can a chain not fit properly cause early cassette and chain ring wear?
how you can not fit it properly?, and not to notice that it makes big noise or skips on frozen link
Double quicklink at 2:28 👌
All the way! We are guessing it was a trail side repair.
Where on earth did you you find an XD cassette? They're like gold dust!
Stelling from a new bike probably :)
Here in México city you can find them easily, they aren’t cheap tho, I’m currently using (and probably abusing) a 11s 10/42t XX1
I use my old CC-2 to determine if my chain is getting close to the change point. I then use a good steel ruler to see if it's really there. If you get the chain checker on an angle, it can give you a false reading. If you can keep your chain very clean, you can double it's life (or more)
Great video, good info. In a short time.
Does the pick check work the same on the chainrings ?
Any opinions on the Rohloff cassette wear checker tool? It is rather subjective in it's use.
Never used one but did look into it
Not 100% effective but can be used to give you an idea of wear like this test does.
I’ve got one - as long as you put ension in it as per instructions it seems to give a pretty accurate reading.
But the worn cassette chain were they jumping skipping. from australia
There was skipping in one gear. The gear that was the riders favorite of course.
Probably should've changed the Jockey wheels as well
They could make a cassette checker tool, similar to chain checker . When teeth get worn it creates a bigger gap.
If you look closely, the gap gets larger as you go to larger gears already. We have not found a method/tool that is reliable enough to do this...yet.
@@parktool Yes each ring would need a separate tool.
Rohloff HG Check
Please explain. Bikes run one chain that must accurately engage teeth on all sprockets of the cassette, therefore it seems logical the teeth are machined to the same spacing. Looking at a new Shimano 12 speed cassette the shape of teeth varies to aid chain shifting between sprockets, but using verniers the centre to centre spacing of the cutout between teeth is the same on all sprockets. @@parktool
@@antc5010but is the spacing the same from one set of gears to the next? E.g. Is the spacing between teeth on the highest gear the same as the lowest? Seems to me the spacing would need to be different as the higher gears will have a smaller radius, but the chain is of a fixed length.
What about Pulley Wheels?
Pulley wheels take quite a bit longer to wear out. The ones on this bike were in good condition. They will appear sharp when they need to be replaced.
Parktool please help me... Crank arm keeps coming loose even i tighten it properly it wobbles when i move the crank arm left to right not when i push and pull the crank arm.
Your crank arms attachment point has been run loose too long and it will no loner stay tight. The crank arm needs to be replaced. if a left arm you can replace just the arm. If the right side then you will need a new crankset.
@@parktool i use shimano bb52 btw what attachment point are u saying the 2 pinch bolts or the one in the middle?
On that style of crank it is not common to come loose if done up. Keep the pinch bolts loose then snug the pre load adjuster ring and then tighten the pinch bolts. If there is still play in the system it is likely that you are missing a spacer that would go between the bottom bracket shell and the bottom bracket. When this is missing you will be prevented from attaining proper preload with the pre load adjusting cap.
@@parktool quick update it gets fixed but the bike mechanic install the stopper plate incorrectly
@@parktool can i send u a video via gmail? If yes can u please drop ur gmail here i cant really explain it by words.Tnx
How to tell that the chain rings are worn on a 3speed crankset
If you see the teeth of chain rings looking like the shark’s fin,
You need to replace a new chain rings
That's all fine but you have to have the parts first
I always change my chin every 2,500 miles !! On my cassette 6,000 miles
Wow, that is so cool....you can change your chin! I have a double chin, would love to remove one of them.
Why not leave the it as is? (chain, cassette, chainring until complete failure of wear parts of the drivetrain)
as long as shifting performance isnt compromised and the chain stays where it's supposed to be while riding
Because the chain then wears prematurely, so a chain that should last 1 year will only last 6 months and you will have crap shifting and skipping
Worn components are prone to chain slip/skip under heavy load - a great way to introduce your face to the ground.
This was left on for too long already. Shifting was not crisp and it was starting to degrade riding experience. Ride as long as you feel you want on a setup but for those that want predictable performance it is important to keep things in good condition.
i agree, buy a bike drive it until first fail, then put it into garbage and buy new bike, industry would love you
that's like saying "your handlebars are half way rusted through about to snap in half, might aswell keep using them until they break so you save money"
So let's say you have 1 set of wheels. You replace that cassette every 3 chains. Ok.
Now, let's say you have 2 sets of wheels that you swap between. How does the 3 to 1 ratio work now? (Genuinely interested as this is my new 1st world problem)
Thanks for any advice in advance
In this instance, I would have a separate chain (or set of chains) for each wheelset. But that may be luxury.
Your 3 to 1 chain/cassette 1st world problem is not reality. Change chain before 75% wear always. Cassette wear is now dependent on quality, your weight and power, and the slop you choose to ride in or not. If it's a 1x setup, it's a crapshoot as they eat chains and cassettes at an alarming rate, that's the bike industry for ya!
Just file the burs out. Problem solved?
so if my chain is that worn, and I already need to replace my cassette and chain ring... then i should just keep riding my bike as is, until it's absolutely unridable...
no need worry about getting my drivetrain, because it's all already worn?
You will start to have drivetrain reliability issues once the chain gets past that .8% mark. After that point the chances of breaking a chain, imprecise shifting, broken teeth and dropped chains goes up very quickly. For predictable shifting and reliability, replace once you get to that .8% or if you want to lengthen the life of your cassette replace the chain at .5%.
@@parktool
Thank you for the response! I could almost guess it wasn't a good idea to "just keep riding it as is"... it's just rare that anyone goes into what would actually happen (other than wearing out the drivetrain).
Btw, I actually love my bike and take really good care of it.
Big thanks to you guys and the content you put out. It's so helpful and informative. A lot of what I know I owe to you :)
Conmuting bike, 2 years, 20km a day everyday. Petrol shake every six months for the chain. Wait for drying, then thin oil lube, a drop per roller. Shifts ok. Chain stretched but ok.
But... How to tell if your chain ring is worn off? There is no skipping on a 1x 🧐🤔
Lay a piece of new chain over the sprocket, and look to see if each link lies in the middle of the sprocket valley.
ua-cam.com/video/TzqZxtW4xJk/v-deo.html
If you see the teeth of chain rings looking like the shark’s fin,
You need to replace a new chain rings
@@dystopiaisutopia no always I had a 1x that looked absolutely fine, normal profile, but chain would catch a few teeth after normal disengagement point, had a new chain so I bought a new ring and all good
chain skipping is in function of how much is gear worn, force you pedal and number of teeth in grip(how big is gear/ring) so, on smaller gear will skip on smaller force than on bigger ring , on more worn ring, it will skip at less force than on less worn gear and any combination of it
If the chain still stays on, the casete and teeth don't look like spikes it's fine... as long as you don't care about the efficiency of the system
You're not trouble shooting, you just replace all the parts on a bike...I can do that if you i have enough budget...
Troubleshooting started as soon as the rider mentioned an issue. Complaint was that "the bike was skipping". First step, check the chain. Chain was worn. How worn? Very worn. What issue can a worn chain cause? A worn cassette and chainring. Both cause poor performance and noise. Solution= Replace chains, cassette, and chainring.
Trek stache!
sorry but cant you at least wash the bike so we can have a clearer picture of what are you talking about?
I Didn't understand anything. Where is the old man? 🤷♂️
How about having a presenter who treats us as adults, rather than someone who infantilises us?
How could we bring this up an age group or two for you?
Although some ParkTool videos are goofy, others are neck deep in knowledge, like the wheel and spoke series. You must also remember their videos are aiming for a general audience who are interested enought on bicycles to want to learn more but lack knowledge or enough interest like a hobbyist or mechanic would to go for the detailed stuff. If someone wants to learn far more and in "an adult prackage" they can go to Sheldon Brown's website.
You must also remember that they make weekly videos, there is only so much info they can share before you start repeating yourself
yes, presenter should swear as truck driver