Just one word of advice...You should stand the tentioner on it's end when it's not installed or in storage...Lots of fun working down there in tight quarters.
ZIGgassedUP I did not know that, but makes complete sense. Thought the tight quarters was going to give me trouble, but it was actually easy.Thanks Zig.
I have a 2003 dodge neon sxt 2.0 automatic transmission, same set up as what has been in your videos, it hasn't reached 100k miles yet,and I recently had to replace the water pump on it. I went through the exact same tear down as you have, and while I done the water pump replacement, I went ahead and bought a new timing belt for it also. I put the new pump on and the tensioner pulley and then the belt, okay here's where the problem starts to occur, when the old belt was taken off, nothing was marked, the new belt was put on and I've tried aligning the marks on the cam and crank. I still can't get it to start. It cranks but no start. I don't know if I've got one if the two off a tooth or if there is a way to align them both back to tdc or what? I haven't started or ran the car since everything has been replaced at all. Is there any advice to this. I would really appreciate it. I need to get back to work. Thanks much
+Terry Alcantar First thing I would do is a compression test to check for any leaking valves. I would also check to see if you had missed any wire connections. Even if the belt is off a couple degrees, it would still fire. It sounds like your not getting any fire in the cylinders. Make sure your coil pack on top of the valve cover is plugged in securely. The compression test will give a lot of information. after you have done all of that. The next question I would ask is, Am I getting any fuel to the injectors? at the end of the fuel rail you should find a valve with a cap. This will look similar to a bicycle tire valve. Take the cap off and depress the needle inside the valve (wear goggles). If fuel comes out under pressure, you are getting fuel to the injector. If no fuel, one of three things is possible. 1) the fuel pump is not getting any power. 2) The fuel pump is bad and needs replaced. And 3) Your car is out of gas. I'm pretty sure if you try these things, you will find that one of them is your trouble area. Good luck and let me know what you find. Take care.
I'll be back at it again this weekend sometime. Do you think the cyclinders may be sticking? It just puzzles me with it being below 90k miles still. And where would you start first start looking if it were to be a fuel issue maybe? Again I thank you very much. I know you went through a bit of a struggle with your neon
+Terry Alcantar If you're able to get it to turn over, a compression test will tell you the condition of the cylinders and valves. If the engine turns over very slow, it could be a bad battery, a bad starter or out of timing. To check the timing, you need to check the timing marks on the cam gear and crank gear. The cam gear has a notch on the side of the teeth that will line up with a notch that is on the fairing behind the gear at about the 12 O'clock position. The crank gear has a dot stamped on the side of the gear teeth that should line up with a dot stamped into the engine block (I have seen a small arrow as well) at about the 11 O'clock position. If these two marks are not lined up simultaneously. Then your timing is out and will need corrected. If the battery is bad, a volt meter will show it to be under 12 volts. if the battery is good, the volt meter will be between 12 and 13 volts. If the timing and battery show to be good, the starter will need to be taken off and checked. Most auto parts stores can check the starter for you. These are just some other areas you can look at to help diagnose your troubles. Take care and good luck.
To check for a fuel issue, start with the fuel valve on the fuel rail to the injectors. See if you have any fuel pressure by depressing the needle inside the valve.
Just one word of advice...You should stand the tentioner on it's end when it's not installed or in storage...Lots of fun working down there in tight quarters.
ZIGgassedUP I did not know that, but makes complete sense. Thought the tight quarters was going to give me trouble, but it was actually easy.Thanks Zig.
Cool idea using the rivet for a keeper pin. :-)
cecil6711 Thanks Cecil. I think even a sewing needle would work.
I have a 2003 dodge neon sxt 2.0 automatic transmission, same set up as what has been in your videos, it hasn't reached 100k miles yet,and I recently had to replace the water pump on it. I went through the exact same tear down as you have, and while I done the water pump replacement, I went ahead and bought a new timing belt for it also. I put the new pump on and the tensioner pulley and then the belt, okay here's where the problem starts to occur, when the old belt was taken off, nothing was marked, the new belt was put on and I've tried aligning the marks on the cam and crank. I still can't get it to start. It cranks but no start. I don't know if I've got one if the two off a tooth or if there is a way to align them both back to tdc or what? I haven't started or ran the car since everything has been replaced at all. Is there any advice to this. I would really appreciate it. I need to get back to work. Thanks much
+Terry Alcantar First thing I would do is a compression test to check for any leaking valves. I would also check to see if you had missed any wire connections. Even if the belt is off a couple degrees, it would still fire. It sounds like your not getting any fire in the cylinders. Make sure your coil pack on top of the valve cover is plugged in securely. The compression test will give a lot of information.
after you have done all of that. The next question I would ask is, Am I getting any fuel to the injectors? at the end of the fuel rail you should find a valve with a cap. This will look similar to a bicycle tire valve. Take the cap off and depress the needle inside the valve (wear goggles). If fuel comes out under pressure, you are getting fuel to the injector. If no fuel, one of three things is possible. 1) the fuel pump is not getting any power. 2) The fuel pump is bad and needs replaced. And 3) Your car is out of gas.
I'm pretty sure if you try these things, you will find that one of them is your trouble area.
Good luck and let me know what you find. Take care.
Going to have it running in no time.
I'll be back at it again this weekend sometime. Do you think the cyclinders may be sticking? It just puzzles me with it being below 90k miles still. And where would you start first start looking if it were to be a fuel issue maybe? Again I thank you very much. I know you went through a bit of a struggle with your neon
+Terry Alcantar If you're able to get it to turn over, a compression test will tell you the condition of the cylinders and valves. If the engine turns over very slow, it could be a bad battery, a bad starter or out of timing. To check the timing, you need to check the timing marks on the cam gear and crank gear. The cam gear has a notch on the side of the teeth that will line up with a notch that is on the fairing behind the gear at about the 12 O'clock position. The crank gear has a dot stamped on the side of the gear teeth that should line up with a dot stamped into the engine block (I have seen a small arrow as well) at about the 11 O'clock position. If these two marks are not lined up simultaneously. Then your timing is out and will need corrected. If the battery is bad, a volt meter will show it to be under 12 volts. if the battery is good, the volt meter will be between 12 and 13 volts. If the timing and battery show to be good, the starter will need to be taken off and checked. Most auto parts stores can check the starter for you.
These are just some other areas you can look at to help diagnose your troubles. Take care and good luck.
To check for a fuel issue, start with the fuel valve on the fuel rail to the injectors. See if you have any fuel pressure by depressing the needle inside the valve.