iforce2d, thank you for your support. A cage with a cable isn't quite the same with an electronics enclosure for example. The tighter a tinned braid, or in this case a silver mesh shielding is around the leads yields a higher percentage of EMI mitigation. This is why a double shielded cable is considered the "bullet proof" form of shielded cable as Mylar foil typically covers 100% of the leads to be shielded, and the tinned braided copper mesh on average is about 70%-95% although most is 85% Here's a point of reference video covering this ua-cam.com/video/84udcsEC7zI/v-deo.html Thank you, Vince
Please demonstrate with an example. I'm still confused about where the copper tape goes and where the shrink wrap shield goes. Should it touch your leads? Should you insulate the leads (i.e. with electrical tape or similar) prior to shrinking the shield around it? An example would best illustrate the concept and how to properly apply the product. Thanks
Hey Paul, Thank you for your support. You made a good point. I'll be doing a video demonstrating assembling a harness with it in the following week. The process is as follows for creating a shielded wire harness. The copper tape with the silicone lead gets wrapped around the wires you're wanting to shield. The copper tape is conductive, and will then make contact with the silver lined heatshrink which is also conductive allowing proper grounding with the silicone shield drain lead. You then apply the heatshrink over the leads with the copper tape installed. You want to cover all the leads completely, but don't want to cover the silicone drain lead except where its terminated at the copper tape's solder point. Once you've verified the silicone drain lead is exposed as described then you shrink the heatshrink over it. The final step is to attach the drain lead which is to be attached to your ground buss bar via its included ring connector. Thank you, Vince
At about 5:58, you talk about double shielding. When you add the second layer, do you add a separate piece of copper tape and separate ground all the way back to the star connection?
Hi, I´ve been watching your videos for the past few days and I must say, although I am no expert on the subject, your videos give me the feeling that you are one of the rare ones regarding electricity that one could trust. I would like to try to implement this method of shielding and later grounding myself and I already found shielded cables on amazon to replace on my hobby cnc stepper motors and subsquently other cables as well. Could I just open up this already shielded cable and insert the copper tape on the unshielded wired, put everything back together, of course with the ground drain solded on the copper as you show it in the video, would the effect be the same? Thx for your time, hope I explained it in an understandable manner. I live in Germany, that is why it doesn´t really fits my budget to buy everything I need from your videos, would be too expensive with the shipping costs. 😞
If the cable you purchased is shielded all you have to do is use its shield drain if it has one, or attach a lead to its shielding to ground it properly. If you prefer to use copper tape to do so that would be fine, but a lead still must be soldered to it to allow for proper termination to ground it. Thank you, Vince
If I have 5 foot of wire that needs protection do I have to shield the whole 5 foot or just a portion at the connector to capture the noise and then ground it
Josh, thank you for your support. The cable needs to be shielded from one end to the other, and only a few inches of shielding removed from each end where you intend on terminating each end. This heatshrink is best used for short lead runs on systems. Thank you, Vince
Thank you for your support. Shielded cable is to be used in best practice. If you can't afford it then save, and do it right. Half measures lead to wasted time, and money. Thank you, Vince
Thank you for your support. First to make sure we're on the same page all cables in best practice should be utilizing double shielded cables to mitigate both forms of EMI in both high, and low frequency. All cables/leads carrying signals includes motor cables, encoders. motor leads that come off of rear enclosure connectors going to your drives, switch/accessory cables, and the leads that come off the enclosure connectors running to your breakout board to support them, VFD cable's both power, and to manipulate speed, and on, and off through motion control software. Once again any cable/lead that's carrying a signal to be manipulated by the breakout board, and or controller. Details count, and cutting corners here are where most end users literally build stability issues into their systems. Thank you, Vince
So, would this be suitable for Nema 17 EMI shielding? Also, I'm a rookie in this subject, are we basically just using EMI shielding to take the field that is emitted from the cable and route it to a ground? What are some good resources to learn more?
Graham, thank you for your support. The answer to your question is M-shield can be used for any application requiring shielding, and your Nema 17's leads would be perfect to use with it pending they are within the shrink diameter the tubing can shrink to. You're also correct in what you wrote about taking any EMI present, and directing it to ground to dissipate it at a level that won't effect our system/application. Thank you, Vince
Great Salesman.. Show how to solve issue and also give an option of a product you sell to fix the issue. You really need to let the automotive community know about this stuff.. actually that's how I found this video. I'm building a wiring harness for a Ignition Control Module on a 91 Ford Mustang and the harness itself needs to be EMI protected and grounded/Drained, and honestly this stuff looks like it could possibly be very useful in the automotive community, so maybe look into that? If it is indeed possible to use in that application you would sell this stuff faster than you could keep it. It would just be making sure the stuff could be flexible I guess.. I've never had to do any wiring where I needed to protect against EMI so wish me luck.
Neptuned, thank you for your support. I really appreciate it. I engineered the M-shield, so covering it for sales is straight forward, and your correct many of my clients are in the automotive world as well as the aviation community. Another huge community I've seen a large amount of interest in is the HAM radio one. My primary engineering is designed around robotics use, but the applications are virtually endless where an end user is trying to achieve mitigation of EMI with the least amount of time investment. Thank you, Vince
i am building a small cnc from a sainsmart 3018 pro kit. all the mechanical weaknesses have been upgraded. i have installed 92oz-in 2.1 amp steppers and fitted them with closed loop controllers. I was having issues so i thought closed loop would fix it and i hope it would as i havent gotten the rest of the parts to put it all back again. however i agree shielding is important. which lines should be shielded? should i just shield signal wires or go for broke and shield all. any links would be appreciated. images appreciated. any input at all appreciated. as per another video of yours i am a hobbyist trying to make toys for my grandkids. basically my machine is 3018 running chronos maker board with bigtreetech s42b. everything is ribbon cabled but im pretty sure i have bleedthrough. i guess what im asking is 4 wire stepper do i shield the 2 signal wires individually or seperately and should i shield my spindle power and seclude it from the stepper motor wires by reroute or other means? im a fan of antique looking wire for alot of uses and i used some cloth wrapped (around silicone insulation) 12 ga. wire run to the spindle and im really sure its insulated but ill bet im getting bleedthrough on the z and possibly the x axis cables as the run right by it. i dont run a vfd. its a 500 watt spindle with a control board relay tripped speed control basically its a $230 piece of crap that ive turned into an $700 piece of crap and i just want to make small toys for the grandkids without the always wondering if it will get through without a failure. with the original 775 spindle and motors the machine was so slow and 2 hours into a project it would lose a step and screw up. after the motor and spindle upgrades those times were cut to 15-25 minutes but still at the end id see issues every once in awhile. closed loop seems like it could solve my probs but before i even get them installed i want to as best i can shield the few wires needed and i could buy shielded wires just need to know what kind. would shielded security wire work twisted pairs for motors? or a twisted shielded pair for the signal wires and external power leads? or should the power leads be shielded as well in a seperate wire? Sorry for the run along post just trying to fix a few issues before they come up
Q5grafx, thank you for your support. Answers to your questions are below. should i just shield signal wires or go for broke and shield all. any links would be appreciated? Only the signal wires are required to be shielded. Here's a video to review ua-cam.com/video/dmXHo32QkrI/v-deo.html i guess what im asking is 4 wire stepper do i shield the 2 signal wires individually or seperately? You would in best practice shield the stepper leads as a group, and not as individuals. and should i shield my spindle power and seclude it from the stepper motor wires by reroute or other means? The spindle's VFD should be at least 5ft from the controller, and the spindle should be using double shielded cable to mitigate EMI. im a fan of antique looking wire for alot of uses and i used some cloth wrapped (around silicone insulation) 12 ga. wire run to the spindle and im really sure its insulated but ill bet im getting bleedthrough on the z and possibly the x axis cables as the run right by it. 12awg wire isn't required for the size spindle you have. I recommend 16awg for flexibility. i could buy shielded wires just need to know what kind. would shielded security wire work twisted pairs for motors? It will work, but optimally double shielded cable in my store is best as it protects from both high, and low frequencies of EMI. twisted shielded pair for the signal wires and external power leads? or should the power leads be shielded as well in a seperate wire? You can also utilize ferrites which are passive filters, and much less expensive. ua-cam.com/video/kirRKgrTOCk/v-deo.html
@@gideonopuni964, thank you for your support. There's only a single ground drain that gets run to the ground bar in your system. If you attache a ground at each end you at very high risk of a "ground loop" Thank you, Vince
@@corvetteguy50 No problem ..I have some RFI-EMI problems with my Newley installed fuel injection system on my classic car..This should take care of it..Im also a HAM radio operator so i know alot about RFI problems...Take care..
This will certainly do the trick..:) I'll be shipping the M-shield in its full 40in lengths as it can't of course be bent, or it will deform the interior silver shielding. thank you again, and have a great weekend! Vince
I want to shield the input sensor wires and output trigger wires on my old MSD 6A capacitive discharge box. Should I shield each wire separately? Thanks
Thank you for talking about prices and how time needs to compensated for!
Thank you for your support, and these are essential to know. Thank you,
Vince
3:55 This is the first time I've heard anybody say that the shielding needs to be tight against the wires being shielded. A cage is a cage isn't it?
iforce2d, thank you for your support. A cage with a cable isn't quite the same with an electronics enclosure for example. The tighter a tinned braid, or in this case a silver mesh shielding is around the leads yields a higher percentage of EMI mitigation. This is why a double shielded cable is considered the "bullet proof" form of shielded cable as Mylar foil typically covers 100% of the leads to be shielded, and the tinned braided copper mesh on average is about 70%-95% although most is 85% Here's a point of reference video covering this ua-cam.com/video/84udcsEC7zI/v-deo.html Thank you, Vince
Please demonstrate with an example. I'm still confused about where the copper tape goes and where the shrink wrap shield goes. Should it touch your leads? Should you insulate the leads (i.e. with electrical tape or similar) prior to shrinking the shield around it? An example would best illustrate the concept and how to properly apply the product. Thanks
Hey Paul,
Thank you for your support. You made a good point.
I'll be doing a video demonstrating assembling a harness with it in the following week.
The process is as follows for creating a shielded wire harness.
The copper tape with the silicone lead gets wrapped around the wires you're wanting to shield. The copper tape is conductive, and will then make contact with the silver lined heatshrink which is also conductive allowing proper grounding with the silicone shield drain lead.
You then apply the heatshrink over the leads with the copper tape installed. You want to cover all the leads completely, but don't want to cover the silicone drain lead except where its terminated at the copper tape's solder point. Once you've verified the silicone drain lead is exposed as described then you shrink the heatshrink over it.
The final step is to attach the drain lead which is to be attached to your ground buss bar via its included ring connector. Thank you, Vince
At about 5:58, you talk about double shielding. When you add the second layer, do you add a separate piece of copper tape and separate ground all the way back to the star connection?
You're exactly right, that's the way it should be done. Thank you,
Vince
I love these videos.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." - Sir Frederick H. Royce
Thank your support...:) Vince
Hmm I have no good knowledge about shielding yet but that looks like a good product.
Thank you for your support. I really appreciate it. Vince
Hi, I´ve been watching your videos for the past few days and I must say, although I am no expert on the subject, your videos give me the feeling that you are one of the rare ones regarding electricity that one could trust. I would like to try to implement this method of shielding and later grounding myself and I already found shielded cables on amazon to replace on my hobby cnc stepper motors and subsquently other cables as well. Could I just open up this already shielded cable and insert the copper tape on the unshielded wired, put everything back together, of course with the ground drain solded on the copper as you show it in the video, would the effect be the same? Thx for your time, hope I explained it in an understandable manner. I live in Germany, that is why it doesn´t really fits my budget to buy everything I need from your videos, would be too expensive with the shipping costs. 😞
If the cable you purchased is shielded all you have to do is use its shield drain if it has one, or attach a lead to its shielding to ground it properly. If you prefer to use copper tape to do so that would be fine, but a lead still must be soldered to it to allow for proper termination to ground it.
Thank you,
Vince
@corvetteguy50 thank you very much for your time and have a nice day :)
You bet! :)
Thank you,
Vince
If I have 5 foot of wire that needs protection do I have to shield the whole 5 foot or just a portion at the connector to capture the noise and then ground it
Josh, thank you for your support. The cable needs to be shielded from one end to the other, and only a few inches of shielding removed from each end where you intend on terminating each end. This heatshrink is best used for short lead runs on systems. Thank you,
Vince
Thanks for the video.
Do you think putting silecon wire into flexible steel conduit would work as a shield.
Thank you for your support. Shielded cable is to be used in best practice. If you can't afford it then save, and do it right.
Half measures lead to wasted time, and money. Thank you,
Vince
nice work man, just stumbled across this trying to learn about shielding haha, great video and congrats on the product
SOAK, thank you for your support. I really appreciate it. Thnak you, Vince
Hi Vince , when you say any cnc cables should be protected if they send a signal.
Isn't that just the encoder wires. Or does the motors included?
Thank you for your support. First to make sure we're on the same page all cables in best practice should be utilizing double shielded cables to mitigate both forms of EMI in both high, and low frequency.
All cables/leads carrying signals includes motor cables, encoders. motor leads that come off of rear enclosure connectors going to your drives, switch/accessory cables, and the leads that come off the enclosure connectors running to your breakout board to support them, VFD cable's both power, and to manipulate speed, and on, and off through motion control software.
Once again any cable/lead that's carrying a signal to be manipulated by the breakout board, and or controller.
Details count, and cutting corners here are where most end users literally build stability issues into their systems.
Thank you,
Vince
Thank you for your detailed and quick response.
You bet...:)
Thank you again for your support,
Vince
So, would this be suitable for Nema 17 EMI shielding? Also, I'm a rookie in this subject, are we basically just using EMI shielding to take the field that is emitted from the cable and route it to a ground? What are some good resources to learn more?
Graham, thank you for your support. The answer to your question is M-shield can be used for any application requiring shielding, and your Nema 17's leads would be perfect to use with it pending they are within the shrink diameter the tubing can shrink to.
You're also correct in what you wrote about taking any EMI present, and directing it to ground to dissipate it at a level that won't effect our system/application. Thank you,
Vince
What gauge wire are you using for the internal wiring and stepper wires for a low amp system nema 17s....2 by 3 work area router
Salvador, Thank you for your support. I really appreciate it. A system using Nema 17's is fine using 18awg wire. Thank you,
Vince
Great Salesman.. Show how to solve issue and also give an option of a product you sell to fix the issue.
You really need to let the automotive community know about this stuff.. actually that's how I found this video.
I'm building a wiring harness for a Ignition Control Module on a 91 Ford Mustang and the harness itself needs to be EMI protected and grounded/Drained, and honestly this stuff looks like it could possibly be very useful in the automotive community, so maybe look into that? If it is indeed possible to use in that application you would sell this stuff faster than you could keep it. It would just be making sure the stuff could be flexible I guess..
I've never had to do any wiring where I needed to protect against EMI so wish me luck.
Neptuned, thank you for your support. I really appreciate it. I engineered the M-shield, so covering it for sales is straight forward, and your correct many of my clients are in the automotive world as well as the aviation community. Another huge community I've seen a large amount of interest in is the HAM radio one. My primary engineering is designed around robotics use, but the applications are virtually endless where an end user is trying to achieve mitigation of EMI with the least amount of time investment. Thank you,
Vince
Aluminum wrapping and duct tape!?
Thank you for your support. That's certainly old school LOL. Have a great weekend! Vince
i am building a small cnc from a sainsmart 3018 pro kit. all the mechanical weaknesses have been upgraded. i have installed 92oz-in 2.1 amp steppers and fitted them with closed loop controllers. I was having issues so i thought closed loop would fix it and i hope it would as i havent gotten the rest of the parts to put it all back again. however i agree shielding is important. which lines should be shielded? should i just shield signal wires or go for broke and shield all. any links would be appreciated. images appreciated. any input at all appreciated. as per another video of yours i am a hobbyist trying to make toys for my grandkids. basically my machine is 3018 running chronos maker board with bigtreetech s42b. everything is ribbon cabled but im pretty sure i have bleedthrough. i guess what im asking is 4 wire stepper do i shield the 2 signal wires individually or seperately and should i shield my spindle power and seclude it from the stepper motor wires by reroute or other means? im a fan of antique looking wire for alot of uses and i used some cloth wrapped (around silicone insulation) 12 ga. wire run to the spindle and im really sure its insulated but ill bet im getting bleedthrough on the z and possibly the x axis cables as the run right by it. i dont run a vfd. its a 500 watt spindle with a control board relay tripped speed control basically its a $230 piece of crap that ive turned into an $700 piece of crap and i just want to make small toys for the grandkids without the always wondering if it will get through without a failure. with the original 775 spindle and motors the machine was so slow and 2 hours into a project it would lose a step and screw up. after the motor and spindle upgrades those times were cut to 15-25 minutes but still at the end id see issues every once in awhile. closed loop seems like it could solve my probs but before i even get them installed i want to as best i can shield the few wires needed and i could buy shielded wires just need to know what kind. would shielded security wire work twisted pairs for motors? or a twisted shielded pair for the signal wires and external power leads? or should the power leads be shielded as well in a seperate wire? Sorry for the run along post just trying to fix a few issues before they come up
Q5grafx, thank you for your support. Answers to your questions are below.
should i just shield signal wires or go for broke and shield all. any links would be appreciated? Only the signal wires are required to be shielded.
Here's a video to review ua-cam.com/video/dmXHo32QkrI/v-deo.html
i guess what im asking is 4 wire stepper do i shield the 2 signal wires individually or seperately? You would in best practice shield the stepper leads as a group, and not as individuals.
and should i shield my spindle power and seclude it from the stepper motor wires by reroute or other means? The spindle's VFD should be at least 5ft from the controller, and the spindle should be using double shielded cable to mitigate EMI.
im a fan of antique looking wire for alot of uses and i used some cloth wrapped (around silicone insulation) 12 ga. wire run to the spindle and im really sure its insulated but ill bet im getting bleedthrough on the z and possibly the x axis cables as the run right by it. 12awg wire isn't required for the size spindle you have. I recommend 16awg for flexibility.
i could buy shielded wires just need to know what kind. would shielded security wire work twisted pairs for motors? It will work, but optimally double shielded cable in my store is best as it protects from both high, and low frequencies of EMI.
twisted shielded pair for the signal wires and external power leads? or should the power leads be shielded as well in a seperate wire? You can also utilize ferrites which are passive filters, and much less expensive.
ua-cam.com/video/kirRKgrTOCk/v-deo.html
@@corvetteguy50 Thank you so much.
@@Q5Grafx You bet....:) thank you,
Vince
Where should the ground wire go? Ground to the machine? Run it back to the ground on the power supply?
Hey John, thank you for your support. The ground drain should go to your ground bar in your electrical chassis. Thank you,
Vince
@@corvetteguy50 I'm a bit confused here if one end goes to the ground bar , where does the other end goes?
@@gideonopuni964, thank you for your support. There's only a single ground drain that gets run to the ground bar in your system. If you attache a ground at each end you at very high risk of a "ground loop" Thank you,
Vince
@@corvetteguy50 thanks for responding. Meaning I can connect one end of the shield to the 0v and the other end to the ground bar?
@@gideonopuni964 You, only will connect the ground drain to the ground bar. There's no lead run to your 0v . Thank you,
Vince
Vince dont forget me on those Steppers when you get them, Thanks for video, David T.
No sir I won't! Once I get them I'll let you know immediately. Thank you again David as always for your support. Have a great weekend! Vince
I just ordered 10-feet from you...
Thank you Stephan for your support. I really appreciate it. Have a great weekend!
Vince
@@corvetteguy50 No problem ..I have some RFI-EMI problems with my Newley installed fuel injection system on my classic car..This should take care of it..Im also a HAM radio operator so i know alot about RFI problems...Take care..
This will certainly do the trick..:) I'll be shipping the M-shield in its full 40in lengths as it can't of course be bent, or it will deform the interior silver shielding. thank you again, and have a great weekend!
Vince
K Here it is hehe
Yes it is!...:) Thank you,
Vince
I want to shield the input sensor wires and output trigger wires on my old MSD 6A capacitive discharge box. Should I shield each wire separately? Thanks
Thank you for your support. No you're fine shielding them all with M-shield. Thank you,
Vince